I have a fairly new home and watching these videos has caused me to realize how many corners the builder cut. I would really love to see instructional videos from Matt on how to properly install pieces like this so home owners like myself can update our homes. Also, this channel is a HUGE resource for me. Love it!
If you want a rot free and water tight door/window, put that blue paintable membrane on before, then install door/window with all appropriate flashing and then paint/caulk it again, then you have something you'll never have to worry about for the rest of you're life. Also, make sure the window sill FRAMING pitches towards the outside. Technology has come so far since the old days and we can thank people like Matt Risinger for bringing this stuff to our attention ! Job well done Matt !
I'm a Texan. Lived in Austin until 2005 (that's why I subscribed!) Moved to Florida and I am so happy to see this kind of video. I've worked in Florida condos - built as early as the 90's and long before - and see I see so much rot, water damage, and mold around doors and windows all over the place. Nice to see modern solutions to persistent problems of awful, cheap, building technology of the past. Thanks for making these videos, you are truly educational and you should be required viewing for anyone working in the building trades.
Risinger build is my HGTV/DIY channel. So sick of the "build it cheap and fast" and let it be someone else's problem down the road. Keep shining the spotlight on doing it right. Good, Fast, Cheap,....can only pick two!
I've heard that metal plans are great conductors or heat and cold. In very cold weather cold pans create condensation thus moisture on both side of the pan. Membrane pans prevent this.
You can insulate the interior of the house off of the plate. I think the general idea is to catch any condensate from the bottom and drain it away. But then again, a membrane does protect the wall, too, yet it's easier to pierce a membrane than a steel sheet. I guess it's just preference. That said, I would probably go with your approach anyways.
I respect your bottom-up, modular approach for preventing water infiltrration. Kudos also for corrosion mitigation regarding the pan itself. Love the vids.
Hello from mid Michigan. This may work well in the hot South, but not so well in the cold North. First the setup, 25 years ago I put a set of Peachtree French doors on my second floor bedroom addition. In a South facing wall, exiting onto a small deck over a low pitch roof of a 1st floor room. Thinking as you, that I would prevent water intrusion under the door set, I formed aluminium flashing as a pan. The pan extended from inside the door sill, outward over a 2X6 that was attached to the 2X6 framing below the door, to which the deck was mounted. This worked great for water intrusion, but during the winter I had major ice build up inside the door sill. After determining that the cause was a loss of the thermal break which was built into the aluminium sill, I had to remove the whole door set, cut the aluminum back to the thermal break in the sill & reinstall with caulking as a water stop. Problem solved & no problems since.
This was my concern as well - Here in MN we can get ice buildup inside and around windows on extremely cold nights, even if they are good quality and installed properly. I think this should be clarified as a southern climate solution.
Where is the thermal break that you are talking about ? In my area condensation is a major problem that I'm having . Could you explain how you installed this ?? Thanks, Tired of do.overs......
@@jefflosey1561 the implementation is always bad, you can't do it well, because you are bypassing the thermal brake made by the factory. If you use caulking, e.g. silicon between the metal plate and the door sill (which you do, as you don't want draft over there), you are making matters worse as silicon is 30 or more times more heat conductive than air. A compressed foam strip is also not as good as an uncompressed one. The good implementation calls for a thermal break but then why even bother with the whole plate, if you are cutting it in half. This solution is smart but not apt for today's standards IMO. I really like the idea but the quality of windows in this age makes it obsolete as it introduces a problem while solving another one that shouldn't even be there in a new construction in the first place.
As a builder i think this is a great idea, except i build in the North and i tried this a long time ago. What happened water actually got frozen on the pan to the sill plate of the door, as winter progressed more water got in there and actually bulged the sill so the door didn't open. So out came the pans and went back to the old wat.
Great video! Would also like to see an extended explanation of this being installed. It could be as simple as just jump cuts from one step to the next without audio. Thanks again
Depends on where you live. I live in California and I have removed exterior doors that look as good as the day they went in eighty years ago with No metal. Great idea for weather beaten exposure but not always, and the extra cost can be high. Sheet metal specifically made for a single application can cost as much as the door itself.
Oh man I wish you'd posted that a day earlier. I installed a new front door yesterday and was brainstorming how to flash it properly. I ended up slapping a strip of the flexible window Fortiflash and a bunch of sealant around the bottom.
I like the concept but sometimes I think we outsmart ourselves. A properly installed door with some good silicone will work well. What happens when it's 45 below zero and your door pan frosts up? May work better in the south though.
I build in Minnesota and -45°F is extreme, but the week I moved into my current home it was -20°F more than a couple days. Not much of your normal building materials/techniques will be very good at that temp. For those who don't have experience at those temperatures it was 52°F below freezing and the indoor/outdoor difference was around 90°F. My home was built in the '60s and has 2x4 framing. Definitely not a good plan for this climate. I would say that we have to plan for a temperature range roughly from -15 to 100°F. A stainless pan definitely would be a heat sink at any temperature, but the concept of thinking long term is great. You just have to adjust your materials for your application. Matt says that in many of his videos. There are options for plastic sill pans for us in less friendly climates. 😊
Not many home builders care much about what they build. good to see you care what you are putting out there. The idea these days seem to build them fast and cheap and just get them sold. reliability seems to be at the bottom of the priority list.
I was taught to install an exterior door with a lead pan which is easily found at any lumber supply and takes some experience to mould . Geocel polymer sealent the shit out of it (in proper form of course) . This is tested and proven to work here in northeast .
Layering another material over that pan would be a great idea. If that stainless pan (or any any metal) is against another dissimilar metal (perhaps an aluminum threshold), you'd be putting both products at risk of galvanic corrosion. Still, you produce the best videos on how to build it right! Thanks
tommyjohnsonjr Generally it’s never metal to metal contact, even in this Video the Threshold is coated on the bottom. Watch video again and you can see the non sticky side of a seal.
You say put your culling in vertically between pan and door frame but what about blocking air on the far backside yet still leaving an escape route for water. If not air and bugs
Where do you get pans like this? I too would be concerned about thermal bridging causing condensation. Maybe a flexible membrane on the wood sill then the metal sill? Great videos btw. Super informative!
Hey Matt, do you put any shims under the pan to create a small slope toward the outside? Or is it so watertight the thought it it will just evaporate in the pan if water does get past the door threshold?
Hey Matt, how do you attach the stainless door pan to the slab? Is it mechanically attached or is sealant put down under it to attach it? .Thanks for all your great videos.
Will that lip on the metal pan always show from the inside? My rule of thumb is no doors without a roof over them or they must have a stormdoor. They all leak if they get blasted with rain.
Hey Matt, you mentioned SS for the pans touching mud, on second levels or wood framed openings, do you still spring for the more expensive material, or use galv for those pans? Great vid!!!!
OK Risinger....I hear your plea for the metal pan...easily done, but I have a sliding- glass unit going over a concrete pad edge....some sources say to use a p.v.c. board, or pressurised over the slab first. Should I make a pan and screw it into the concrete, and then install vynal door sill over that? or would you just use the pan like in this video.....really got alot out of the video, thanks
Hey Matt, love the videos. I would suggest showing the details and animating what you're talking about so people better understand what you're saying. More work but a diagram can help a lot. You could probably just take the architect's details (with their permission) and edit in google slides/power point/keynote.
Matt, Great video! Do you know where I can buy an extra deep door sill pan? I have block plus wood frame opening and need around an 11.5" deep sill pan. Thanks, Dan
Good video..quick question I see you use Marvin most of the time but this is a different product. Guessing it was specified by architect? Run into any issues?
I will be replacing the front door, sill plate, cap joist and sill plate under my front door (rot), but I will be leaving the milled 4x4 logs exposed, Matt (or anyone else for that matter) do you have any recommendations on what to use, where the exterior walls outside the door frame will be exposed?
Matt Risinger I still see condensation as an issue in cold climates such as mine (Canada). Anywhere cold air meets the warm inside air is an issue for us. Even the self draining door sills from Andersen condensate when customers have slightly high humidity in the house. Is there any way around this? Or is this an issue for different climates?
I had a new Masonite exterior fiberglass door installed for my laundry room. The floor of the room is vinyl sheet. The problem is that the steel threshold sticks up 1 3/8”. I realize this was designed for thick tile floors, but the threshold is easy to trip over. I have not been able to find a reducer that will remedy the situation. Any ideas on the best solution?
That recess is gonna be a problem though, mark my words. I get that stucco is going to wrap around it into the recess. I can understand how it might look nice, but it is gonna be next to impossible to properly stucco inside that recess and to make sure that in two or three years' time that "nice detail" hasn't let any water in or cracked from expansion and conctraction, improper application, door installation, wear and tear etc. Because from what I've seen, from the way you build houses so airtight, any kind of moisture that might leak in from that recess is never gonna go away, and you're gonna have problems.
Those recesses are a horrible design trend. People think it will look like the window is deep-set into a thick wall, but it just looks fussy and fake. I say either embrace the reality of modern frame construction with flanged flush windows and do that well, OR spend extra on heavy masonry construction and detail accordingly.
Yeah my builder didn't use these. I have 12 outside doors. 2 of which leak. I had him come out and install these. Considering they are only a few bucks, it's pretty stupid not to install them.
Hey! Got a question/problem. I have a basement, exterior door that has poured slab inside and out. Both the same, or very nearly the same level. Some one in the past has tried to apply concretely to create a slope away from the door. It is now falling apart and I will be removing the whole business to replace it. But I am not sure what to do about the threshold. Thoughts?
@@nholt Thousands of dollars later out of pocket for shoddy construction issues. I am over it! Matt is my favorite and shows that it's the little things that protect your home investment.
If this metal pan is needed on exterior doors, why aren't they needed on exterior windows? Doors usually have some overhang protection whereas many windows may not. And if sloped sill flashing is good enough for windows, why aren't they good enough for doors? Is it just the higher cost of these metal pans that prevent them from being used on all windows? If so, not sure why the door protection is cost justified but the window protection is not.
The only reason I can come up with is doors are used way more than windows and by people/dogs with snow/rain soaked shoes/paws and clothing ? I also believe that all ROUGH openings should be sloped ever so slightly on the bottom towards the outside, probably overkill, but...better safe than sorry.
@@afobear I think he specifically cited use of stainless steel material because of the concrete. But his message, including his last statement in the video, was that you would want to use metal sill pan under all exterior doors. I agree with the protection prevention, but to me, water damage from window leaks could be just as costly to repair as leaks from doors. In the end, I think it's easier to cost justify a more expensive waterproofing system for one door versus applying the same, more expensive waterproofing system for many windows. So it appears to me to be more of a total budget consideration.
These buildings advise are for southern home building. Codes are written differently for each regionsa. People who are smart know this. Example. Frost line for footers are deeper in canada than pennsylvania. This guy can only explain building code methods for his region. I dont expect him to be an expert in my region than he is not familiar with.
If you use a pan you don't need any caulking. We always use lead. you can form it and make it tight. If you flash things correctly you do not need to use caulking.
Lead stretches and can be molded with some persuasion. I use a rubber hammer and a block of wood. Carpenters have been doing that for a long time. It's called skill.
if i catch you using lead on my house me and you are going for a walk out back, and only iam coming back, fucking guy using lead on a house in 2017, gtfo
Why would you use liquid blue flashing instead of wrapping the sills, sides, and corners properly. It seems like an unnecessary step and extra purchase, and an inferior application. I like your videos but this seems janky, even if it's a plug for your sponsor. Otherwise, great videos.
Jon Lee post the link, I'd like to know more about it. What about extra thick walls? I am building with 2x6,7/16 sheathing, and 2" rigid foam and haven't found a sill product for varying insets
Synchronicity. In the last 3 weeks, I have had to deal with 3 doors that were improperly installed, one less than 8 years ago. PANS??? HA. The owners are lucky they even had flashing. [also likely done wrong] [[California dreamin' carpenters strike again]]
Trevor, you can never be to careful as to seal your doors/windows. You, on the other hand will spend big money on a self flushing toilet but not keeping water out of your house. SMH.
I had a new Masonite exterior fiberglass door installed for my laundry room. The floor of the room is vinyl sheet. The problem is that the steel threshold sticks up 1 3/8”. I realize this was designed for thick tile floors, but the threshold is easy to trip over. I have not been able to find a reducer that will remedy the situation. Any ideas on the best solution?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a fairly new home and watching these videos has caused me to realize how many corners the builder cut. I would really love to see instructional videos from Matt on how to properly install pieces like this so home owners like myself can update our homes. Also, this channel is a HUGE resource for me. Love it!
If you want a rot free and water tight door/window, put that blue paintable membrane on before, then install door/window with all appropriate flashing and then paint/caulk it again, then you have something you'll never have to worry about for the rest of you're life. Also, make sure the window sill FRAMING pitches towards the outside. Technology has come so far since the old days and we can thank people like Matt Risinger for bringing this stuff to our attention ! Job well done Matt !
I'm a Texan. Lived in Austin until 2005 (that's why I subscribed!) Moved to Florida and I am so happy to see this kind of video. I've worked in Florida condos - built as early as the 90's and long before - and see I see so much rot, water damage, and mold around doors and windows all over the place. Nice to see modern solutions to persistent problems of awful, cheap, building technology of the past.
Thanks for making these videos, you are truly educational and you should be required viewing for anyone working in the building trades.
+Mickey Rousseau thanks Mickey! Very kind
Very good point. No matter what state.
Risinger build is my HGTV/DIY channel. So sick of the "build it cheap and fast" and let it be someone else's problem down the road. Keep shining the spotlight on doing it right. Good, Fast, Cheap,....can only pick two!
I pick good and cheap.
I've heard that metal plans are great conductors or heat and cold. In very cold weather cold pans create condensation thus moisture on both side of the pan. Membrane pans prevent this.
Really good point, it would seem that membrane flashing would be just as good and less costly.
You can insulate the interior of the house off of the plate. I think the general idea is to catch any condensate from the bottom and drain it away. But then again, a membrane does protect the wall, too, yet it's easier to pierce a membrane than a steel sheet. I guess it's just preference. That said, I would probably go with your approach anyways.
That’s something that make sense so where can I get a membrane pan
I respect your bottom-up, modular approach for preventing water infiltrration. Kudos also for corrosion mitigation regarding the pan itself. Love the vids.
Hello from mid Michigan. This may work well in the hot South, but not so well in the cold North. First the setup, 25 years ago I put a set of Peachtree French doors on my second floor bedroom addition. In a South facing wall, exiting onto a small deck over a low pitch roof of a 1st floor room. Thinking as you, that I would prevent water intrusion under the door set, I formed aluminium flashing as a pan. The pan extended from inside the door sill, outward over a 2X6 that was attached to the 2X6 framing below the door, to which the deck was mounted.
This worked great for water intrusion, but during the winter I had major ice build up inside the door sill. After determining that the cause was a loss of the thermal break which was built into the aluminium sill, I had to remove the whole door set, cut the aluminum back to the thermal break in the sill & reinstall with caulking as a water stop. Problem solved & no problems since.
t Bow guy
This was my concern as well - Here in MN we can get ice buildup inside and around windows on extremely cold nights, even if they are good quality and installed properly. I think this should be clarified as a southern climate solution.
Where is the thermal break that you are talking about ?
In my area condensation is a major problem that I'm having .
Could you explain how you installed this ??
Thanks,
Tired of do.overs......
So basically not that the Pan was no good but the implementation...✅
@@jefflosey1561 the implementation is always bad, you can't do it well, because you are bypassing the thermal brake made by the factory. If you use caulking, e.g. silicon between the metal plate and the door sill (which you do, as you don't want draft over there), you are making matters worse as silicon is 30 or more times more heat conductive than air. A compressed foam strip is also not as good as an uncompressed one. The good implementation calls for a thermal break but then why even bother with the whole plate, if you are cutting it in half. This solution is smart but not apt for today's standards IMO. I really like the idea but the quality of windows in this age makes it obsolete as it introduces a problem while solving another one that shouldn't even be there in a new construction in the first place.
one of my first jobs was working the brake bending sill pans for door and window replacement. haven't done that in awhile now.
I dig it. My favorite drinking game is to take a shot when Matt says "detail."
Great idea, I will drink to that. See you on the other side.
As a builder i think this is a great idea, except i build in the North and i tried this a long time ago. What happened water actually got frozen on the pan to the sill plate of the door, as winter progressed more water got in there and actually bulged the sill so the door didn't open. So out came the pans and went back to the old wat.
Great video! Would also like to see an extended explanation of this being installed. It could be as simple as just jump cuts from one step to the next without audio. Thanks again
T Willey good call. I need to do that!
The worst practice you can imagine
Depends on where you live. I live in California and I have removed exterior doors that look as good as the day they went in eighty years ago with No metal. Great idea for weather beaten exposure but not always, and the extra cost can be high. Sheet metal specifically made for a single application can cost as much as the door itself.
Oh man
I wish you'd posted that a day earlier. I installed a new front door yesterday and was brainstorming how to flash it properly. I ended up slapping a strip of the flexible window Fortiflash and a bunch of sealant around the bottom.
I like the concept but sometimes I think we outsmart ourselves. A properly installed door with some good silicone will work well. What happens when it's 45 below zero and your door pan frosts up? May work better in the south though.
Just don't step on it or else you are going down!
diggk1 45 below zero? We’re do you live?
Klaa2 , Are you high ? This solution is better than most, if not all homes in the U.S. today.
I build in Minnesota and -45°F is extreme, but the week I moved into my current home it was -20°F more than a couple days. Not much of your normal building materials/techniques will be very good at that temp. For those who don't have experience at those temperatures it was 52°F below freezing and the indoor/outdoor difference was around 90°F. My home was built in the '60s and has 2x4 framing. Definitely not a good plan for this climate. I would say that we have to plan for a temperature range roughly from -15 to 100°F. A stainless pan definitely would be a heat sink at any temperature, but the concept of thinking long term is great. You just have to adjust your materials for your application. Matt says that in many of his videos.
There are options for plastic sill pans for us in less friendly climates. 😊
Not many home builders care much about what they build. good to see you care what you are putting out there. The idea these days seem to build them fast and cheap and just get them sold. reliability seems to be at the bottom of the priority list.
Love these videos. The production value is really good and always good info being presented. Thanks!
+Billy Ryan very welcome
I was taught to install an exterior door with a lead pan which is easily found at any lumber supply and takes some experience to mould . Geocel polymer sealent the shit out of it (in proper form of course) . This is tested and proven to work here in northeast .
Layering another material over that pan would be a great idea. If that stainless pan (or any any metal) is against another dissimilar metal (perhaps an aluminum threshold), you'd be putting both products at risk of galvanic corrosion.
Still, you produce the best videos on how to build it right! Thanks
tommyjohnsonjr Generally it’s never metal to metal contact, even in this Video the Threshold is coated on the bottom. Watch video again and you can see the non sticky side of a seal.
ultimate sill flashing. good call using stainless on concrete. do you air seal between the metal sill flashing and the concrete or framing?
You say put your culling in vertically between pan and door frame but what about blocking air on the far backside yet still leaving an escape route for water. If not air and bugs
Most of our door pans are Fiberglass here in OC NJ.
Great tip on not running the glue horizontally.
Where do you get pans like this? I too would be concerned about thermal bridging causing condensation. Maybe a flexible membrane on the wood sill then the metal sill? Great videos btw. Super informative!
Hey Matt, do you put any shims under the pan to create a small slope toward the outside? Or is it so watertight the thought it it will just evaporate in the pan if water does get past the door threshold?
Hey Matt, how do you attach the stainless door pan to the slab? Is it mechanically attached or is sealant put down under it to attach it? .Thanks for all your great videos.
Will that lip on the metal pan always show from the inside? My rule of thumb is no doors without a roof over them or they must have a stormdoor. They all leak if they get blasted with rain.
+bluebird5100 good rule! No the pan is roughly 5/8" tall and the flooring will be taller. We will caulk the gap
bluebird5100, all doors in my opinion, should have a storm door, just good building science,
Hey Matt, you mentioned SS for the pans touching mud, on second levels or wood framed openings, do you still spring for the more expensive material, or use galv for those pans? Great vid!!!!
Gotta remember he is in Texas, way different than Michigan with freeze thaw cycles
Amazing video thank you for sharing the video with us. Great work.
Do you just silicone the inside corner in the rear of the sill pan? And is there any pitch for drainage?
How would it run to the outside on the windows if there is no slope?
Excellent video!
+Tre Bischof thanks buddy!
This design is a massive thermal bridge between the interior and the exterior, even if you stop air leakage.
Many of the items and products Matt sells will fail. He admits to having failures in the past and will be having them in the future.
OK Risinger....I hear your plea for the metal pan...easily done, but I have a sliding- glass unit going over a concrete pad edge....some sources say to use a p.v.c. board, or pressurised over the slab first. Should I make a pan and screw it into the concrete, and then install vynal door sill over that? or would you just use the pan like in this video.....really got alot out of the video, thanks
Thanks Matt as always for the great info - where do you get your door sills from in Austin?
Matt, how are you going to do the door sill and jamb details for the thick walls in your home build?
Been searching for this very answer…
Hey Matt, love the videos. I would suggest showing the details and animating what you're talking about so people better understand what you're saying. More work but a diagram can help a lot. You could probably just take the architect's details (with their permission) and edit in google slides/power point/keynote.
+Scott Valentine good call. Need to work on that. Great idea for improvement
Matt, Great video! Do you know where I can buy an extra deep door sill pan? I have block plus wood frame opening and need around an 11.5" deep sill pan. Thanks, Dan
Great content once again 🌝
I have major overhangs over my doors and windows. It rains 6 months a year where I live in the Pacific Northwest.
Matt! Would love to see utilization systems that use thermal breaks. Exterior door frames, window system, etc! Let me know what you think!
Good video..quick question I see you use Marvin most of the time but this is a different product. Guessing it was specified by architect? Run into any issues?
I will be replacing the front door, sill plate, cap joist and sill plate under my front door (rot), but I will be leaving the milled 4x4 logs exposed, Matt (or anyone else for that matter) do you have any recommendations on what to use, where the exterior walls outside the door frame will be exposed?
Why do you prefer to use stainless steel when working with concrete?
No concern about condensation? The metal serves as an energy bridge from interior climate to exterior climate.
Jim Bronzie I'm with you. I love the concept. Have entertained the idea of doing it several times but you have a great point...
+Jim Bronzie I can see that. If that concerns you use this one. Very well made. www.suresill.com/
Matt Risinger I still see condensation as an issue in cold climates such as mine (Canada). Anywhere cold air meets the warm inside air is an issue for us. Even the self draining door sills from Andersen condensate when customers have slightly high humidity in the house. Is there any way around this? Or is this an issue for different climates?
Neil, make a thermal break, that would work correct ?
how long is that liquid flashing rated for? awesome advice thanks for all the great videos
They have a test going on now. That stuff has been sitting out in the Texas sun for 2 yrs exposed and hasn't changed at all, good stuff !!
How does the water run to the outside if the bottom of the door sill is resting on top of the pan? Is their a weep hole somewhere?
So what do you do with a 0 entry door threshold then?
Thermal conductivity of stainless? Future condensation/ rot?
I live in Austin too. Who is your sheet metal manufacturer?
Yes sir, I live in Bastrop who is your sheet metal manufacturer? Thank you
I had a new Masonite exterior fiberglass door installed for my laundry room. The floor of the room is vinyl sheet. The problem is that the steel threshold sticks up 1 3/8”.
I realize this was designed for thick tile floors, but the threshold is easy to trip over.
I have not been able to find a reducer that will remedy the situation. Any ideas on the best solution?
That recess is gonna be a problem though, mark my words. I get that stucco is going to wrap around it into the recess. I can understand how it might look nice, but it is gonna be next to impossible to properly stucco inside that recess and to make sure that in two or three years' time that "nice detail" hasn't let any water in or cracked from expansion and conctraction, improper application, door installation, wear and tear etc. Because from what I've seen, from the way you build houses so airtight, any kind of moisture that might leak in from that recess is never gonna go away, and you're gonna have problems.
Those recesses are a horrible design trend. People think it will look like the window is deep-set into a thick wall, but it just looks fussy and fake. I say either embrace the reality of modern frame construction with flanged flush windows and do that well, OR spend extra on heavy masonry construction and detail accordingly.
Good vid. Thank you.
2:48 - shouldn't there be a drip edge on that pan?
elbuggo it's shingled to the exterior flashing, so it will always shed the water to a "safe" place
Matt - When I win the lottery, I'm hiring you to build my dream house!
What are the advantages of a metal sill pan over a flashing tape, such as Tyvek, or a fluid applied, such as Prosoco?
The shape. It creates a back dam.
Not a bad video for metal, but was hoping to see examples of other methods as well.
If you make your own, how do you seal the back seams? Solder?
Yeah my builder didn't use these. I have 12 outside doors. 2 of which leak. I had him come out and install these. Considering they are only a few bucks, it's pretty stupid not to install them.
does change the rough opening
fyi you can usually get pans from your door supplier
Do you need a sillpan on 2nd floor with gypcrete?
How is this different than metal flashing?
Hey! Got a question/problem. I have a basement, exterior door that has poured slab inside and out. Both the same, or very nearly the same level. Some one in the past has tried to apply concretely to create a slope away from the door. It is now falling apart and I will be removing the whole business to replace it. But I am not sure what to do about the threshold. Thoughts?
That’s really hard. Water gets in with out gravity pulling it away.
Is this a custom pan, or did your order this from a supplier with standard dimensions?
+Jonathan Boeckling custom made for this opening
It's amazing how many contractors don't even use flashing tape, let alone a sill pan, on exterior doors....
Mine didn't or flash the windows either. Now I'm stuck with it
@@nholt Thousands of dollars later out of pocket for shoddy construction issues. I am over it! Matt is my favorite and shows that it's the little things that protect your home investment.
So, the door sill is just glued to the metal pan?
1:40 is this not wood framed?
Pan is on cement not wood subfloor
An outside door should have a roof or awning over it and not get wet.
If this metal pan is needed on exterior doors, why aren't they needed on exterior windows? Doors usually have some overhang protection whereas many windows may not. And if sloped sill flashing is good enough for windows, why aren't they good enough for doors? Is it just the higher cost of these metal pans that prevent them from being used on all windows? If so, not sure why the door protection is cost justified but the window protection is not.
The only reason I can come up with is doors are used way more than windows and by people/dogs with snow/rain soaked shoes/paws and clothing ? I also believe that all ROUGH openings should be sloped ever so slightly on the bottom towards the outside, probably overkill, but...better safe than sorry.
This was addressed in the video as a specific design detail for over concrete.
@@afobear I think he specifically cited use of stainless steel material because of the concrete. But his message, including his last statement in the video, was that you would want to use metal sill pan under all exterior doors. I agree with the protection prevention, but to me, water damage from window leaks could be just as costly to repair as leaks from doors. In the end, I think it's easier to cost justify a more expensive waterproofing system for one door versus applying the same, more expensive waterproofing system for many windows. So it appears to me to be more of a total budget consideration.
so why not use Dupont instead?
So you're gonna caulk the channel on the inside of the door/pan where you said the water will run down to in the event of leaking?
These buildings advise are for southern home building. Codes are written differently for each regionsa. People who are smart know this. Example. Frost line for footers are deeper in canada than pennsylvania. This guy can only explain building code methods for his region. I dont expect him to be an expert in my region than he is not familiar with.
Matt, Can you please do a video about waterproofing around exterior electrical? (outlets and boxes for light fixtures).
Thanks!
If you use a pan you don't need any caulking. We always use lead. you can form it and make it tight. If you flash things correctly you do not need to use caulking.
Jameson Cross lead? Ewwww. Unless it's leaded solder, gtfo.
Lead stretches and can be molded with some persuasion. I use a rubber hammer and a block of wood. Carpenters have been doing that for a long time. It's called skill.
if i catch you using lead on my house me and you are going for a walk out back, and only iam coming back, fucking guy using lead on a house in 2017, gtfo
You're an idiot.
+Jameson Cross the back caulk is for an air sealing
Isn't this code in most states ?
I like that into
Why would you use liquid blue flashing instead of wrapping the sills, sides, and corners properly. It seems like an unnecessary step and extra purchase, and an inferior application. I like your videos but this seems janky, even if it's a plug for your sponsor. Otherwise, great videos.
we just had a heavy wind and rain storm with invvaded all sliding glass doors, what type of service would i call to fix them correctlly.
No, door millwork companies do not carry door sill pans
My old house doesn't have this.
Not a very good video. Show the thing being installed. Can't tell what you're talking about by showing it after it's done.
Well...Those door metal sill pans would only work if the door swings out or the door has to float just over the top edge of the pan. 🤔
SureSill Sloped Sill Pan
You may want to check out our vinyl universal sill pans. let me know and I can send you a sample pan. Cheers!
Jon Lee post the link, I'd like to know more about it. What about extra thick walls? I am building with 2x6,7/16 sheathing, and 2" rigid foam and haven't found a sill product for varying insets
tommydjohnsonjr please go to my G+ profile. It is there. I don't want to hijack the thread. My contact info is there as well.
Just found that this was not done under my back door and the wood is rotting....
Synchronicity. In the last 3 weeks, I have had to deal with 3 doors that were improperly installed, one less than 8 years ago. PANS??? HA. The owners are lucky they even had flashing. [also likely done wrong] [[California dreamin' carpenters strike again]]
first its "aluma-seal" and then its "prosoco" and then its whatever the manufacturer pays Matt to showcase their product
Looks like kids finger painted that sealer on. Looked terrible i would have it redone so it at least looks like it will work.
salesman at work
we don't need that in desert so.ca.,,would be useless invest ,sorry
That fluid flashing looks like a Jesus mess. I'd stick with Grace, blue skin, etc.
Blah blah blah
These videos should be called how to spend way to much money building a house.
+Trevor Roth you missed an "o"
Trevor, you can never be to careful as to seal your doors/windows. You, on the other hand will spend big money on a self flushing toilet but not keeping water out of your house. SMH.
Completely unnecessary ...
I had a new Masonite exterior fiberglass door installed for my laundry room. The floor of the room is vinyl sheet. The problem is that the steel threshold sticks up 1 3/8”.
I realize this was designed for thick tile floors, but the threshold is easy to trip over.
I have not been able to find a reducer that will remedy the situation. Any ideas on the best solution?
A doublejack will solve your problem.
@@Krunch2020 thx. I’m not finding that online. Can you send a link?