Thank you for this. A note for anyone doing this repair - label the wires before disassembly to make sure theyre hooked up correctly when you're done, and take lots of pictures throughout.
Check if hot and cold are correct by feeling the temperature of the basket (start a cold cycle, cancel, then open door). Had one machine that had the valve connectors mixed up at the factory. The temperatures were opposite of the stamped H and C on the rear panel, so I swapped the connectors. Grande Cache Appliance Repairs
F20 on Kenmore Elite he5t model #110.47791700 Problem: F20 error appearing mainly into mid cycle after wash step; sometimes during wash but most of the other times during rinse cycle. At which point, pressing the stop button triggers the drain pump which runs for a long time. I just turned off the circuit braker and ran the rince and spin cycle for 22 minutes which always completed wihtout error. This error is a water flow problem and more likely water blockage. My problem would have been fixed in step #2 but I was differently routed and hence came to know more on the working of the washer's different sub systems and I was able to clean the drain system clear of blockage which would have otherwise caused problems in future. Solution steps: 1. Turn off circuit braker to the washer and turn off supply valves for hot and cold water. Clean any gunk or mineral deposits by the water inlet valve filter screens on both Cold and Hot water hoses. Now that the both hoses are detached from the washer inlet valve and still attached to the supply valves, run them both with hot and cold water respectively by opening the supply valves to clear any debris. If they're blocked then remove the blockages. Also, clean the washer door rubber belt ring from inside and remove any socks or blocakges if any. Then clean the washer drum bottom trap door by the drain pump to remove any gunk, garbage and blockages. This trap is visible by opening the bottom panel of the washer. Optionally clean the interior and exterior drain hoses (runs from the drain pump to drain outlet near water supply valves) and its T fitting by the top of the washer on the outside back of the washer. Likely you'll find so much gunk. Also check the drain pump motor and fix it for any water leaking from the motor. I fixed the leak with gorilla glue and silicon layers since the motor was rotating and running fine. Otherwise replace it for $20 AMI PARTS 8181684 Water Drain Pump(www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RYT1NMK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2Q4PTQ9IBJNK8&psc=1) 2. Attach hot and cold water hoses back to the washer and remove each of them from their supply valves. Drain both of the hoses out of water completely by holding them to the bottom floor into any small bucket. Then wear gloves and very slowly pour 1/2 cup of demineral solution CLR (www.walmart.com/ip/CLR-Calcium-Lime-Rust-Remover-Multi-Surface-Cleaner-28-Oz/14574716?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0) in each of the hoses by holding them up high (near shoulder) then hold or tuck them high by the back cabinet or wall and support them in that position for four minutes or so. Or just keep holding them high. This is to drain CLR into the water inlet valves deep enough to clear any mineral deposits in them. Then attach both hoses back to water supply, turn valves on and wait for 30 minutes or so. Then run washer with an express cycle, warm water (hot and cold) with no clothes in the drum and with washing detergent for half the normal load. This will clean and clear out the stuck open or stuck closed water inlet valves. This cleaning can also be done by removing the inlet valve, opening it up and cleaning the mineral or gunk deposits. ruclips.net/video/wNPh0Ik5vzY/видео.html; ruclips.net/video/TNFa7aSfHgU/видео.html 3. By this time if water flow and error F20 not corrected then likely the water flow meter has gone bad. This part can be tested with multimeter and/or replaced with a new one. Not sure if this works but turn the flow meter 90 degrees clockwise as stated in this video (ruclips.net/video/kYuRQNbR9Nc/видео.html). But if the water flow meter checks fine on multimeer then replace the water inlet valve with a new one since the cleaning of it didn't work in step #2. During this time while the top panel is open, if you find that the water level air pressure switch connecting tubing hose (tube connecting the pressure switch to the back of the drum tub) dangling very near the drum tub, then inspect it for wear and tear or perforation holes or any other damage. If found damaged then replace it with 5/16 inches vinyl tubing. Just heat up the vinyl ends with hair dryer for ease in installation. For replacement, the back panel and total of about 13 screws need to be removed before you get to the tubing. Tuck the new tube into the clip attached with the drain hose near the back of the washer panel. If no clip then secure zip tie it with the drain hose. If no damage found then simply clip/tuck the old existing tube or tie it with the drain hose. See video above and here, ruclips.net/video/xgipnDSyCg8/видео.html Tips for DIY: 1. For F20 always follow the water flow to locate any blockage starting from the supply valves. 2. For error like Sud followed by F35, the water level pressure switch and the connecting tubing is the culprit. Try the tubing first which could be a cheap fix if worked the first time. If not, replace both the switch and tubing together if you are not sure the tube is damaged by inspecting it. 3. If the part can be checked on the multimeter, do that first to find if the part has gone bad. 4. Walter inlet valve is both mechanical and electrical part. Learn the working of it (ruclips.net/video/TNFa7aSfHgU/видео.html) to know if you need to clean it before replacing it. 5. Don't replace the control board or other high value parts before you have drilled down and pin pointed enough on them. Check the troubleshooting code guide for your washer and locate the respective system within washer first to isolate problem area and then respective parts. Try repairing the problem part first before directly replacing if you want to save on costs and/or simply curious to learn more. 6. There is a plenty of help available. Just search online, youtube or ask experts at appliancepartspros.com. If not, reach out to the manufacturer tech support and talk with a technician. Always document your problem statement clearly and then the steps you have been taking to isolate and correct the problem. This is for you as well as for any technician. 7. I would suggest not to replace suspecting parts together just in case. This would prevent you from knowing what really caused the issue. Always isolate problem part and try to repair or clean it if easy and not time consuming. Then go about replacing it. Remember, technicians do not have all parts with them, they also take time in ordering before they come back and try the solution. You're just doing the same on your own time. In my case my turnaround was lightening fast (overnight most of the time) in compare to any techinician's help or work because it takes time for them. This is achieved through practice. I was trying the solution in the evening followed by a laundry in the morning to see if problem corrected. Moral here is not to succumb to demoralizing thoughts. 8. I have observed that the parts for Whirlpool/Kenmore are very expensive in compare to GE washers. If GE washers are more reliable then you have a clear choice. 9. All brands of washers (even dishwashers) and dryers have similar parts in their design and workings in the system just different fittings. Just know how the part functions in the system and then try to repair or correct the problem.
Our machine is giving us an NF code part way through the washing cycle. If we adjust the cycle to rinse and spin, it finishes the washing load. Do you think the problem could be a faulty inlet valve or something else. Your best guess would be so greatly appreciated. 🙏🏻
Thank you for this. A note for anyone doing this repair - label the wires before disassembly to make sure theyre hooked up correctly when you're done, and take lots of pictures throughout.
OMG...!!! I have the SAME identical washer, IN THE SAME COLOR! How insane is THAT?!
Great tutorial. Thank you very much.
How much power/volts are required to open the water inlet valves?
Check if hot and cold are correct by feeling the temperature of the basket (start a cold cycle, cancel, then open door). Had one machine that had the valve connectors mixed up at the factory. The temperatures were opposite of the stamped H and C on the rear panel, so I swapped the connectors.
Grande Cache Appliance Repairs
F20 on Kenmore Elite he5t model #110.47791700
Problem: F20 error appearing mainly into mid cycle after wash step; sometimes during wash but most of the other times during rinse cycle. At which point, pressing the stop button triggers the drain pump which runs for a long time. I just turned off the circuit braker and ran the rince and spin cycle for 22 minutes which always completed wihtout error. This error is a water flow problem and more likely water blockage. My problem would have been fixed in step #2 but I was differently routed and hence came to know more on the working of the washer's different sub systems and I was able to clean the drain system clear of blockage which would have otherwise caused problems in future.
Solution steps:
1. Turn off circuit braker to the washer and turn off supply valves for hot and cold water. Clean any gunk or mineral deposits by the water inlet valve filter screens on both Cold and Hot water hoses. Now that the both hoses are detached from the washer inlet valve and still attached to the supply valves, run them both with hot and cold water respectively by opening the supply valves to clear any debris. If they're blocked then remove the blockages. Also, clean the washer door rubber belt ring from inside and remove any socks or blocakges if any. Then clean the washer drum bottom trap door by the drain pump to remove any gunk, garbage and blockages. This trap is visible by opening the bottom panel of the washer. Optionally clean the interior and exterior drain hoses (runs from the drain pump to drain outlet near water supply valves) and its T fitting by the top of the washer on the outside back of the washer. Likely you'll find so much gunk. Also check the drain pump motor and fix it for any water leaking from the motor. I fixed the leak with gorilla glue and silicon layers since the motor was rotating and running fine. Otherwise replace it for $20 AMI PARTS 8181684 Water Drain Pump(www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RYT1NMK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2Q4PTQ9IBJNK8&psc=1)
2. Attach hot and cold water hoses back to the washer and remove each of them from their supply valves. Drain both of the hoses out of water completely by holding them to the bottom floor into any small bucket. Then wear gloves and very slowly pour 1/2 cup of demineral solution CLR (www.walmart.com/ip/CLR-Calcium-Lime-Rust-Remover-Multi-Surface-Cleaner-28-Oz/14574716?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0) in each of the hoses by holding them up high (near shoulder) then hold or tuck them high by the back cabinet or wall and support them in that position for four minutes or so. Or just keep holding them high. This is to drain CLR into the water inlet valves deep enough to clear any mineral deposits in them. Then attach both hoses back to water supply, turn valves on and wait for 30 minutes or so. Then run washer with an express cycle, warm water (hot and cold) with no clothes in the drum and with washing detergent for half the normal load. This will clean and clear out the stuck open or stuck closed water inlet valves. This cleaning can also be done by removing the inlet valve, opening it up and cleaning the mineral or gunk deposits.
ruclips.net/video/wNPh0Ik5vzY/видео.html; ruclips.net/video/TNFa7aSfHgU/видео.html
3. By this time if water flow and error F20 not corrected then likely the water flow meter has gone bad. This part can be tested with multimeter and/or replaced with a new one. Not sure if this works but turn the flow meter 90 degrees clockwise as stated in this video (ruclips.net/video/kYuRQNbR9Nc/видео.html). But if the water flow meter checks fine on multimeer then replace the water inlet valve with a new one since the cleaning of it didn't work in step #2. During this time while the top panel is open, if you find that the water level air pressure switch connecting tubing hose (tube connecting the pressure switch to the back of the drum tub) dangling very near the drum tub, then inspect it for wear and tear or perforation holes or any other damage. If found damaged then replace it with 5/16 inches vinyl tubing. Just heat up the vinyl ends with hair dryer for ease in installation. For replacement, the back panel and total of about 13 screws need to be removed before you get to the tubing. Tuck the new tube into the clip attached with the drain hose near the back of the washer panel. If no clip then secure zip tie it with the drain hose. If no damage found then simply clip/tuck the old existing tube or tie it with the drain hose. See video above and here, ruclips.net/video/xgipnDSyCg8/видео.html
Tips for DIY:
1. For F20 always follow the water flow to locate any blockage starting from the supply valves.
2. For error like Sud followed by F35, the water level pressure switch and the connecting tubing is the culprit. Try the tubing first which could be a cheap fix if worked the first time. If not, replace both the switch and tubing together if you are not sure the tube is damaged by inspecting it.
3. If the part can be checked on the multimeter, do that first to find if the part has gone bad.
4. Walter inlet valve is both mechanical and electrical part. Learn the working of it (ruclips.net/video/TNFa7aSfHgU/видео.html) to know if you need to clean it before replacing it.
5. Don't replace the control board or other high value parts before you have drilled down and pin pointed enough on them. Check the troubleshooting code guide for your washer and locate the respective system within washer first to isolate problem area and then respective parts. Try repairing the problem part first before directly replacing if you want to save on costs and/or simply curious to learn more.
6. There is a plenty of help available. Just search online, youtube or ask experts at appliancepartspros.com. If not, reach out to the manufacturer tech support and talk with a technician. Always document your problem statement clearly and then the steps you have been taking to isolate and correct the problem. This is for you as well as for any technician.
7. I would suggest not to replace suspecting parts together just in case. This would prevent you from knowing what really caused the issue. Always isolate problem part and try to repair or clean it if easy and not time consuming. Then go about replacing it. Remember, technicians do not have all parts with them, they also take time in ordering before they come back and try the solution. You're just doing the same on your own time. In my case my turnaround was lightening fast (overnight most of the time) in compare to any techinician's help or work because it takes time for them. This is achieved through practice. I was trying the solution in the evening followed by a laundry in the morning to see if problem corrected. Moral here is not to succumb to demoralizing thoughts.
8. I have observed that the parts for Whirlpool/Kenmore are very expensive in compare to GE washers. If GE washers are more reliable then you have a clear choice.
9. All brands of washers (even dishwashers) and dryers have similar parts in their design and workings in the system just different fittings. Just know how the part functions in the system and then try to repair or correct the problem.
Hi .. so I did the replacment but now the washer will not turn on. Any insight?
Try plugging it in!
@@wildturkey9275 lol thanks Mr. Obvious, I don't know what I would do with out that info....
Maybe tripped the breaker at the fuse box
Our machine is giving us an NF code part way through the washing cycle. If we adjust the cycle to rinse and spin, it finishes the washing load. Do you think the problem could be a faulty inlet valve or something else. Your best guess would be so greatly appreciated. 🙏🏻
Nice demonstration, except would love to see a close up of the required screwdriver. But easy to figure out when having access from the back.
If you need a close up of the required screwdriver you should call someone so you don't hurt yourself
Rene Bourduas You will need a number 20 torex driver bit.
Thanks!!! saved me from getting a new washer ( ha ha wife)
Thank you for listing the part number!