Great to see these valves disassembled. Regarding the continuity function on meters - they only beep below a specified resistance. e.g. 200 ohms. If measuring above that resistance it will not beep. Most of these types of solenoid coils have a resistance over 1k ohm.
@@HarperandKnowles it is built in on the meters on purpose. The beep is mainly to indicate a short or close to it (low resistance). The cutoff resistance is set by the meter manufacturer and is commonly 200 ohms and sometimes lower for auto-ranging meters. For checking these types of coils, it's best to stick with resistance and not rely on the continuity function as the resistance is usually a couple thousand ohms, give or take.
L I don't think so too far l and l and l for l for ll days of a day to l for ll and lll for ll and I l and I have learned l for l and I l for ll and I l to l6lllo99
Thank you Chip. I really appreciate people like you showing how to fix something. Not just replace it to fix it. I just capped off a leak in my 20+ year old maytag. Was quite discouraged when I got everything back together and heard drips from the inside of it. I'll have to investigate these valves. Someone suggested to run some CLR into the lines but I'll probably just take the valve body apart.
I have gotten quite good with repairing those. If the valve is leaking the piston seal is the culprit and if the valve is only a trickle there is a tear in the diaphragm. I collect valves now because they seem to be pretty interchangeable parts wise.
Is that a portrait of Eugene Ely on the wall? @ 3:55 mark, the resistance of the copper inducter is so low the fluke thinks you are checking for continuity on a very long length of copper wire and peeps means there is no break. anyway, you are working on a very similar designed calve I need to take apart and check, thanks for the close up checks. @ 11:25 mark, nice tip .
No, actually that’s a picture of some of the guys that first rigged up their airplanes to do crop dusting. It all started in Delhi Louisiana. That’s also the place that Delta airlines got their start. I’m thinking most of those fellas probably died of the big C on account of they were spraying DDT with no personal protection gear. Thanks for watching!
When using the audible feature on your ohm meter, you are checking continuity within an electrical system. Example, making sure a wire is not broken from point a to point b. If the wire is good it will beep because there is a solid connection from one lead to the other. If it doesn't it will not because there is a broken connection. You can also check for a short (hot and neutral shorted together) in a component and that is what you are trying to do in this video. If your meter beeps when testing the water valve, that indicates the solenoid is shorted and needs to be replaced. If it doesn't beep, flip your meter to the lowest ohm measurement and note the reading. In a typical solenoid it should read between 500-5000. Hopefully that helps.
I reached out to an electronics expert about this, and this is what he told me. When your Fluke multimeter is set to its audible continuity test mode but does not beep while testing thermistors or coils, even though continuity is indicated on the digital readout, the issue likely revolves around the specific characteristics of the audible continuity test function and the nature of the components you're testing. Here's why this might be happening: 1. **Sensitivity of the Audible Continuity Feature**: The audible continuity feature is designed to emit a beep sound when the resistance between the two points being tested is below a certain threshold, typically around 20 to 40 ohms. This threshold varies between different models of multimeters. Thermistors and coils, depending on their resistance, might have a resistance value that is higher than this threshold, even though they technically have continuity. The digital readout, however, will show the actual resistance value, which allows for the detection of continuity even if the resistance is above the audible threshold. 2. **Response Time**: The audible continuity test might also have a slower response time compared to the digital readout due to the way the circuit is designed to confirm continuity before generating a sound. This could mean that for components with resistance close to the threshold, the meter might register continuity on the display but not trigger the audible signal if the connection is brief or borderline. 3. **Characteristics of Thermistors and Coils**: Thermistors and coils have specific electrical properties that might affect the continuity test. - **Thermistors**: These are temperature-sensitive resistors whose resistance changes with temperature. If the thermistor's resistance at room temperature is higher than the audible continuity threshold of the multimeter, the meter won't beep but will show continuity on the digital readout. - **Coils**: Coils or inductors may have a DC resistance within the continuity range but might also induce a small voltage in the test circuit due to their inductive properties when a current is applied, potentially affecting the audible continuity detection. 4. **Multimeter Specifications**: Different models of Fluke multimeters may have different specifications for the audible continuity test, including different resistance thresholds for triggering the beep sound. It's worth consulting the user manual for your specific model to understand the parameters of the audible continuity test. To confirm the continuity of thermistors or coils with higher accuracy, it's advisable to rely on the digital readout of the resistance measurement rather than the audible continuity signal, especially when dealing with components that have resistance values close to or above the threshold set for the audible continuity test. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Thank you for your content, It helped me!. I have a wtw5300sq0 and it gets stuck on the rinse cycle and continuously fills the tub. After testing the water level sensor and removing the timer to clean the contacts, I had a suspicion the water valve was sticking as it occurred intermittently. I tested the solenoids and they both passed. I learned from your video the solenoids could be removed. I swapped the hot with the cold and am now going to monitor the operation. If it no longer happens, I'll purchase a new water valve assy. Btw, this machine has a "non serviceable" timer. It can be opened and worked on but it's not friendly and there isn't much reference on it. Anyone attempting this, remove the electrical connector portion only if your only trying to clean the contacts. If you open the the body of the timer be prepared for gears and springs to pop out. Hope that helps someone.
Do these valves also reduce water flow, had a sudden strange issue where there seems to be too much pressure/spray into the detergent draw and water is being forced out the top.
Thank you! Question about the wire harness for those valves. I had to replace my inlet valve but the new one has a different arrangement for the 2 black wires, so I need to repin those. (red, yellow and white are the same as before). The machine side connector has one yellow/black wire but the new connector has 2 blacks and they seem to go to opposite ends of a 60kohm resistor in the body of the valve. Where should the ends of those 2 black wires go in the 4 wire original connector (red, yellow, white and black)? I foolishly threw out the original inlet valve and harness so I can't match it! And don't know what to do with the black wires! The machine works fine with just the red, yellow and white, but I don't want to burn anything out by not connecting the black wires. Thanks!
The two black wires go to the thermistor (the 60kohm resistor) that you mention. Not all machines use this devise but it won’t harm anything if your new valve has it but your machine’s not wired for it. It just won’t be functional on the valve. Thanks for watching!
Attention Chip Liked your video on Inlet Valves, you covered many items in a short amount of time. Trying to disassemble the valve, can not pop the coil off. How much force is needed to remove the coil ? Working with Whirlpool part, W1025984 Rev. B.
Squirt a little WD40 on the end of the post that the coil sits on. Use a slotted screwdriver to gently wiggle between the plastic and the metal frame of the coil and gently twist, first one side then the other. Once the coil clears the post at the top of the coil you can twist and pull until it comes off. Thanks for watching!
G'day. Most interesting. My washer box has siezed ball valves in the full on position. In the future I need to replace it with the use of a plumber who will have to cut into the wall. A mess to be sure. My gate valve for the shut off for the water coming into my home needs to be replaced first as it still runs when turned off. $$$$ from my S.S. income. Oh well. My oldie but goodie Kitchenaide top loader developed a leak some time ago. That is why and how I happened onto your channel. I poured a few buckets of water into the tub while the machine was off and it leaked from the bottom. A drain pump or drain hose perhaps? If it's the outter tub then the machine will have to go. God forbid. Anyway to get to this topic of the inlet valve and it's workings. The machine is still hooked up to the full on position of the water hoses, in the off position. No water being used or leaking. The machine is in the off position but still connected to the electric outlet. If I disconnect the plug, will the pressure from the full on water hoses spew forth? I ask this as I see on this video, there is some sensor holding back the water pressure. Yikes! I am most concerened. So is the machine still getting electrical current in the off postion? Cheers from S. CA
Not a problem, unplugging the machine won’t cause those valves to open. If you need to replace the machine kink the water hoses and use a zip tie to hold them in the kinked position. Undo the hoses from the old washer and move it out. When your new washer is installed just cut those zip ties to unlink the hoses. Worry about the ball valves in the distant future,
@@HarperandKnowles G'day to you. I just now saw your reply. Thank you so much for calming me down. I was worried about 'THERE SHE BLOWS!' Didn't want a flood in my old house. I don't know why I didn't get a notification when you replied back but am ever so grateful you did. Cheers from S. CA
If It was good with the audio off it would've shown numbers real quick on your meter then zeroed or right at it those numbers will go away when you stick your multi meter probes together if they don't then your Meter or leads have a problem if your battery gets low on some they'll act crazy a good habit is o check your meter continuity function before you go to test anything and take it to be gospel or safe especially if it's to check for the old zip zap shocking could be heart stopping ark flashing last of I pray no one because it's been checked 3 different ways by a competent person or persons and working tools every way it could possibly be dangerous do to system or human error ect I've only been lightly zapped like twice and thankfully it wasn't a full 120 or less D.C volts shore enough heart stopping because of instant full body muscle seizing steady non alternating direct current me shortest path of resistance most linear set of Google maps directions to the next life c'mon😊not me I stay sharp like a marble 😅😅😅😅😂
Be sure your hot and cold water lines aren’t swapped on the washer. Washers won’t work if there is no water supplied to the cold water valve because once you get to the rinse cycle everything is cold water. Thanks for watching!
Great to see these valves disassembled. Regarding the continuity function on meters - they only beep below a specified resistance. e.g. 200 ohms. If measuring above that resistance it will not beep. Most of these types of solenoid coils have a resistance over 1k ohm.
Thanks for answering that. Is it a limitation of the device or was it built that way on purpose?
@@HarperandKnowles it is built in on the meters on purpose. The beep is mainly to indicate a short or close to it (low resistance). The cutoff resistance is set by the meter manufacturer and is commonly 200 ohms and sometimes lower for auto-ranging meters. For checking these types of coils, it's best to stick with resistance and not rely on the continuity function as the resistance is usually a couple thousand ohms, give or take.
Thanks for the explanation! I have always wondered why it was like that.
L I don't think so too far l and l and l for l for ll days of a day to l for ll and lll for ll and I l and I have learned l for l and I l for ll and I l to l6lllo99
Thank you Chip. I really appreciate people like you showing how to fix something. Not just replace it to fix it. I just capped off a leak in my 20+ year old maytag. Was quite discouraged when I got everything back together and heard drips from the inside of it. I'll have to investigate these valves. Someone suggested to run some CLR into the lines but I'll probably just take the valve body apart.
My pleasure. Good luck with your repair!
I have gotten quite good with repairing those. If the valve is leaking the piston seal is the culprit and if the valve is only a trickle there is a tear in the diaphragm. I collect valves now because they seem to be pretty interchangeable parts wise.
You have more patience than I. I just replace them.
Is that a portrait of Eugene Ely on the wall? @ 3:55 mark, the resistance of the copper inducter is so low the fluke thinks you are checking for continuity on a very long length of copper wire and peeps means there is no break. anyway, you are working on a very similar designed calve I need to take apart and check, thanks for the close up checks. @ 11:25 mark, nice tip .
No, actually that’s a picture of some of the guys that first rigged up their airplanes to do crop dusting. It all started in Delhi Louisiana. That’s also the place that Delta airlines got their start. I’m thinking most of those fellas probably died of the big C on account of they were spraying DDT with no personal protection gear. Thanks for watching!
Excellent tutorial. You have just saved me $$. Keep up the good work
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
When using the audible feature on your ohm meter, you are checking continuity within an electrical system. Example, making sure a wire is not broken from point a to point b. If the wire is good it will beep because there is a solid connection from one lead to the other. If it doesn't it will not because there is a broken connection. You can also check for a short (hot and neutral shorted together) in a component and that is what you are trying to do in this video. If your meter beeps when testing the water valve, that indicates the solenoid is shorted and needs to be replaced. If it doesn't beep, flip your meter to the lowest ohm measurement and note the reading. In a typical solenoid it should read between 500-5000. Hopefully that helps.
I reached out to an electronics expert about this, and this is what he told me. When your Fluke multimeter is set to its audible continuity test mode but does not beep while testing thermistors or coils, even though continuity is indicated on the digital readout, the issue likely revolves around the specific characteristics of the audible continuity test function and the nature of the components you're testing. Here's why this might be happening:
1. **Sensitivity of the Audible Continuity Feature**: The audible continuity feature is designed to emit a beep sound when the resistance between the two points being tested is below a certain threshold, typically around 20 to 40 ohms. This threshold varies between different models of multimeters. Thermistors and coils, depending on their resistance, might have a resistance value that is higher than this threshold, even though they technically have continuity. The digital readout, however, will show the actual resistance value, which allows for the detection of continuity even if the resistance is above the audible threshold.
2. **Response Time**: The audible continuity test might also have a slower response time compared to the digital readout due to the way the circuit is designed to confirm continuity before generating a sound. This could mean that for components with resistance close to the threshold, the meter might register continuity on the display but not trigger the audible signal if the connection is brief or borderline.
3. **Characteristics of Thermistors and Coils**: Thermistors and coils have specific electrical properties that might affect the continuity test.
- **Thermistors**: These are temperature-sensitive resistors whose resistance changes with temperature. If the thermistor's resistance at room temperature is higher than the audible continuity threshold of the multimeter, the meter won't beep but will show continuity on the digital readout.
- **Coils**: Coils or inductors may have a DC resistance within the continuity range but might also induce a small voltage in the test circuit due to their inductive properties when a current is applied, potentially affecting the audible continuity detection.
4. **Multimeter Specifications**: Different models of Fluke multimeters may have different specifications for the audible continuity test, including different resistance thresholds for triggering the beep sound. It's worth consulting the user manual for your specific model to understand the parameters of the audible continuity test.
To confirm the continuity of thermistors or coils with higher accuracy, it's advisable to rely on the digital readout of the resistance measurement rather than the audible continuity signal, especially when dealing with components that have resistance values close to or above the threshold set for the audible continuity test. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Thank you for your content, It helped me!. I have a wtw5300sq0 and it gets stuck on the rinse cycle and continuously fills the tub. After testing the water level sensor and removing the timer to clean the contacts, I had a suspicion the water valve was sticking as it occurred intermittently. I tested the solenoids and they both passed. I learned from your video the solenoids could be removed. I swapped the hot with the cold and am now going to monitor the operation. If it no longer happens, I'll purchase a new water valve assy. Btw, this machine has a "non serviceable" timer. It can be opened and worked on but it's not friendly and there isn't much reference on it. Anyone attempting this, remove the electrical connector portion only if your only trying to clean the contacts. If you open the the body of the timer be prepared for gears and springs to pop out. Hope that helps someone.
I’m very glad it helped you. Good luck with your repair!
Do these valves also reduce water flow, had a sudden strange issue where there seems to be too much pressure/spray into the detergent draw and water is being forced out the top.
I don’t think that they regulate pressure. Make sure all the drawer parts are in place. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Question about the wire harness for those valves. I had to replace my inlet valve but the new one has a different arrangement for the 2 black wires, so I need to repin those. (red, yellow and white are the same as before). The machine side connector has one yellow/black wire but the new connector has 2 blacks and they seem to go to opposite ends of a 60kohm resistor in the body of the valve. Where should the ends of those 2 black wires go in the 4 wire original connector (red, yellow, white and black)? I foolishly threw out the original inlet valve and harness so I can't match it! And don't know what to do with the black wires! The machine works fine with just the red, yellow and white, but I don't want to burn anything out by not connecting the black wires. Thanks!
The two black wires go to the thermistor (the 60kohm resistor) that you mention. Not all machines use this devise but it won’t harm anything if your new valve has it but your machine’s not wired for it. It just won’t be functional on the valve. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thank you for sharing the knowledge! May I use a universal or a different brnd valve in my machine? There are no official parts anymore 😢
Sure, that will work. OEM parts are always better than the after market brands but we do what we have to. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles thank you! Blessings.
You helped me to save my machine! It works perfectly again!
I’m glad you’re back up and running. Have a great day!
Attention Chip
Liked your video on Inlet Valves, you covered many items in a short amount of time.
Trying to disassemble the valve, can not pop the coil off. How much force is needed to remove the coil ? Working with Whirlpool part, W1025984 Rev. B.
Squirt a little WD40 on the end of the post that the coil sits on. Use a slotted screwdriver to gently wiggle between the plastic and the metal frame of the coil and gently twist, first one side then the other. Once the coil clears the post at the top of the coil you can twist and pull until it comes off. Thanks for watching!
G'day. Most interesting. My washer box has siezed ball valves in the full on position. In the future I need to replace it with the use of a plumber who will have to cut into the wall. A mess to be sure. My gate valve for the shut off for the water coming into my home needs to be replaced first as it still runs when turned off. $$$$ from my S.S. income. Oh well.
My oldie but goodie Kitchenaide top loader developed a leak some time ago. That is why and how I happened onto your channel. I poured a few buckets of water into the tub while the machine was off and it leaked from the bottom. A drain pump or drain hose perhaps? If it's the outter tub then the machine will have to go. God forbid.
Anyway to get to this topic of the inlet valve and it's workings. The machine is still hooked up to the full on position of the water hoses, in the off position. No water being used or leaking. The machine is in the off position but still connected to the electric outlet. If I disconnect the plug, will the pressure from the full on water hoses spew forth? I ask this as I see on this video, there is some sensor holding back the water pressure. Yikes! I am most concerened. So is the machine still getting electrical current in the off postion?
Cheers from S. CA
Not a problem, unplugging the machine won’t cause those valves to open.
If you need to replace the machine kink the water hoses and use a zip tie to hold them in the kinked position. Undo the hoses from the old washer and move it out. When your new washer is installed just cut those zip ties to unlink the hoses. Worry about the ball valves in the distant future,
@@HarperandKnowles G'day to you. I just now saw your reply. Thank you so much for calming me down. I was worried about 'THERE SHE BLOWS!' Didn't want a flood in my old house. I don't know why I didn't get a notification when you replied back but am ever so grateful you did.
Cheers from S. CA
If It was good with the audio off it would've shown numbers real quick on your meter then zeroed or right at it those numbers will go away when you stick your multi meter probes together if they don't then your Meter or leads have a problem if your battery gets low on some they'll act crazy a good habit is o check your meter continuity function before you go to test anything and take it to be gospel or safe especially if it's to check for the old zip zap shocking could be heart stopping ark flashing last of I pray no one because it's been checked 3 different ways by a competent person or persons and working tools every way it could possibly be dangerous do to system or human error ect I've only been lightly zapped like twice and thankfully it wasn't a full 120 or less D.C volts shore enough heart stopping because of instant full body muscle seizing steady non alternating direct current me shortest path of resistance most linear set of Google maps directions to the next life c'mon😊not me I stay sharp like a marble 😅😅😅😅😂
Thanks for watching!
I have a whirl pool top load washer. Wtw4855hwo.if I turn off hot water inlet valve my machine won't wash.
Be sure your hot and cold water lines aren’t swapped on the washer. Washers won’t work if there is no water supplied to the cold water valve because once you get to the rinse cycle everything is cold water. Thanks for watching!