I'm noticing some clarification is needed for the grip type we choose here: I chose the 90 degree half crimp position for testing, since I find that the by far safest way to test people. Letting people hang from their flesh in a dragging position would (most likely but more research is needed) have a higher risk of injuring tendons in beginners. I've seen that first hand, and it's not something I want to put people at risk for to make a video. It's very hard to assess when a load is too heavy in a dragging position, especially for me who was supervising the experiment. I also find that when people are asked to "max out" a lift, they'll use any means necessary to do so, such as sticking the skin of the pinky into one end of the edge, which effectively won't provide more strength but will make hanging or lifting easier -> increases risk of injury. I will say though, this is anecdotal and based on talking with experts, so there's definitely room for discussion with what grip types are best for both training and testing, but this is what I expect to be the most safe. That being said, if you're using a hangboard or portable edge for finger training, it can be good to train all positions that you might encounter on the wall. Three finger drag, open four, half crimp, anything goes really, as long as you know what you're doing and can do it safely. Also: Check out natureclimbing.com/ and use code: "REALDEAL" for 30% off the entire Nature Climbing store (valid until December 2nd)
Damn i trained my max to 70kg recently and i never knew you should pay attention to that. Fingers still felt healthy though, oddly enough they felt better than ever when training them 3x a week. Very good to know though,i will check if my fingers are opening up.
What do you think about the position/angle of the two last phalanx? Is it ok to have a light bend when assessing strength/training finger strength (light bend = the knuckles are not at the same height as the edge you are crimping but a little bit lower, similar to a full crimp but not using the thumb).
@@TheBanana202 If you feel safe in the position you're training I wouldn't worry too much! But do consider the positions you train and how they transfer to your goals (which I assume are climbing strength related)
@@haearnhammer3733 I would say it is totally ok, we all have quite different fingers and for some the bend will be more than for others. C4HP talks a lot about difference in fingers, I would look into what they have to say for some interesting insights!
@@sadababa7511 I mean, I don't blame you, and often times in the past long ago watching Emil on Eric's channel I've thought similar. But Emil is decidedly a proven wad now lol, 8C on rock is nothing to scoff at.
@@sadababa7511 I just show the grades that are on the tags of the different gyms I'm at nowadays, so they aren't to be taken too seriously imo. Some gyms (like b-pump ogikubo) you'll see me get crushed on V2s, and some gyms I'll be flashing V12s, none of them really represent my climbing perfectly tbh. But if you're curious for these specific climbs, I felt the boulders I climbed in this video were a bit generous 😅 Good fun though!
@@sadababa7511 That white 7c+ one is a one move boulder, I've seen plenty of people, strong people mind you, try that move and no one has been close to do it. Its crazy that he made that move look so casual.
What a great concept! We're always happy to support your ideas and help climbers get stronger. 😊 It was so nice to see you making sure no one gets injured! And Haley? She's a natural. 😉 Let her know to send us a message - she absolutely deserves a Stone Hanger of her own! What an absolute legend!
Cool to see Emil warming up on my project at 0:19. Got some insight on the beta, for my next session. And the 6C at 15:10 was my first 6C ever, which is no longer there.
Great video, Emil! I loved being able to see so many different climbers from different walks of life, and getting a small glimpse into their journey as a climber. It really inspired me to reflect about my own climbing, strengths, weaknesses, etc. as well. Feeling stoked to hit the gym and train as well, hehe. Thanks as always for awesome vids!
Thanks for the description of good and bad finger posture during testing. This is the first time I've heard that, but so good to know. GREAT VIDEO 👍🏽🤙🏽
He's a great climber, even though Emil said he might not be better in finger strength. That purple boulder he set looked like some strong fingers to me.
A lot of women I climbed with have very strong fingers, they are often stopped by their fear.. men often are weaker but more reckless, at least when it comes to my boulder experiences
@@theaumguy1621 I have seen that on entry level climbers, as experience goes by I dont see a diference in fear in men or women. I have seen that many women are extraordinarily strong on their fingers, even without any prior training or experience.
@@rgwa555 of course because after climbing a lot, everyone conquered their fear to some extend.. she said herself shes an average climber even though shes climbing 7a.. So it looked/sounded like shes not that expierenced, but loves climbinig alot..
I've always been baffled by these tests. I am 50yo, arthritic in both mid fingers, & have in recent years never lifted more than 25kg on the Tindeq large edge & 22.5kg on the 10mm. I used to boulder V11/12 & Sport Climb up to 8b years ago but now I can only manage V8/9 & 8a max. My finger strength correlates with a V3/5, 7a climber but I somehow find ways to climb without engaging much of my mid fingers, especially on rock. I suspect a lot of it comes from trying to maximise friction on holds & adapting with strange methods (such as using the pinkie side of the palm to wrap around holds). I also pulsate a bit to purchase more friction & help ease my fingers into less painful positions on holds. I only wished at my current weight of 56kg, I could lift as much as the lady in the video! 😮
My best friend is like this. He lifts like half of what I lift on a 25mm half crimp but he’s sent 5.12a and I’m stuck at 5.11d. He’s just a better technical climber than me and taller which accounts for much more at those grades than pure power.
I can relate a lot to the first guy, I started climbing July 2024 and I tested my max on a 10mm edge 2 months in or so and I lifted 50kg and held for 10seconds. I also did 40kg pinch lift for 10seconds… Current bodyweight is 82.5Kg The strong climbers in my gym couldn’t really believe that I could lift this amount of weight hahaha Now I have been training this a lot and I can do 55kg for 5sets 10 reps by now :)
10mm 50 alot wow 13month sınce ı started clımbıng mıne also around 50kg, 37-38 pınch 80kg bw you are really strong on the fıngers . Also 65-70 kg on the 20mm
If you ever do another video like this it would be interesting to go into some kind of grip strength Competition and test the 20mm max this strong man can lift.
I know it's a very long trip, but is there any chance that you'll come down to Australia to try out some gym's and possibly some outdoor boulders? Absolutely love your videos mate, keep em coming :)
Why is open hand more passive than half crimp since both are isometric? I think a better reason is just that closer to 1rm is inherently more injury risk. Going from half crimp to opening up a little is fine, but going from completely open to slipping off is going to be no bueno for your fingers.
yeah this is confusing as you train hangboarding with either open or half crimp positions and i don't think one is inherently more dangerous than the other. I think this was just a weird rule he wanted to institute. other wise dave macleod of three finger drag insanity is training dangerously?
@@SuedeNWingsyou should definitely train any grip positions you use on the wall on a board as well. I think he poorly explained or had poorly explained to him the idea that your grip should not be opening up while training half crimp, it causes a ton of friction on the pulleys which is (as far as I know) one of the real ways that hangboarding can contribute to injury
@ yeah I think that’s the proper way to explain this. Either way fun video and if you’re testing a grip position it shouldn’t change so that concept is proper. Funny enough this video did inspire me to test my half crimp compared to my drag.
This was a fun video! I always love watching your science experiments Emil!! Sadly though shipping to my location from Nature Climbing seems to be very high 😢
The numbers around this are so interesting. Wondering if there's some correlation around general fitness before getting into climbing and the ratio of strength compared to body weight, since at end of the day you just have to be able to hold your own weight up. I assume need to take that into account vs straight comparison of weight lifted. I started climbing roughly when I was 22, and before that did nothing physical. Since then (now 36) i've been climbing a decent amount (2-3 times a week, more recently 4 times a week) and roughly v5 flash grade and can work moves on problems v6-v8 (depending on style, but trouble connecting it all). Body weight of ~65kg, my no-hang is around ~20kg, might be able to push another 2-5kg for max. While in the video every one seems to be absolutely crushing the no-hangs 😂I think I need to get on a no-hang protocol and see if it's really strength that's been limiting me. One of my biggest weaknesses is being able to hold slopers, feels like my wrists will pop, and other is slab/dynamic moves which is more fear than anything else :D.
Emil, did you see Mitchel Hooper (2023 worlds strongest man) 's video on grip strength? He also "set a standard" and went around the gym getting people to test it. It would be cool to see much lighter and freakishly strong guys such as yourself also trying it.
can you explain why you say over 90° its more passive? the muscle is still contracted and actually at a longer length, which seems to be the part of a exercise which gives the most results
Why is opening the hand considered unsafe? I always heard open hand grips put less stress on the finger pulleys, which also makes intuitive sense.Does open hand put more stress on the finger flexor tendons compared to a full crimp which is what makes it unsafe?
for me it's definetly the other way around. Maybe 90 degress is fine, but for me the dangerous thing is going into the full crimp and not the finger drag (which has never caused me any issues)
@@rgwa555 I was talking to someone at the gym about this. They were saying that because you’re relying on the passive system, if you acquire an injury from that it will be a tendon injury.
I think it depends a lot on context, too. In the case of the vid, they’re basically maxing out finger strength with huge weights. If you’re getting to a point of failure/hands are opening, you’re risking doing something “less controlled” that could lead to injury.
I was planning to do a big ole dramatic comeback series from it, because it seemed like I would be several months out at first (finger was swollen to 2x it's size and blue), but somehow I miraculously healed in about 3 weeks so now I just have some dramatic footage from some rehab haha. We'll see though, I might do a video on finger rehab regardless
@ holy shit... that's ridiculous! Well I would very much love that sort of video! ❤️🔥 I am very glad that your finger is miraculously healing mister sloper daddy!
@@EmilAbrahamsson Would be interesting to see a vid on what to avoid/how to prevent injury, and how you got your injury - maybe also even past injuries and the lessons from them?
Great video Emil and good performance on Haley's part! How do you think finger length of the 1st digit/pad relates to half-crimp strength? Was wondering this, since in my climbing community most girls prefer crimps and usually look very strong on them.
@@ComputerManDanMiller ...which makes crimping the best way to hold onto bad holds and the risk of injury is near to zero. ... oh but wait! you are tall! you only can do the boulder because you are taller then me!!!!
NIce concepte! But I noticed, that only the girl was using her legs to lift the weight. Rest of the guys went through their backs. The legs, and straight back, might be helpful
Great video! I have also noticed that my girlfriend is has stronger fingers than me, and she weighs less and climbs a grade lower. She has also incredible strenght on the tip of her fingers she is worlds beyond me on small crimping.
Very similar to a hangboard with some differences. Hangboard is more sports specific, but this is (arguably) easier to track and progress with. OTG-lifts can also be a fantastic way to track your finger health
OTG/edge lifts/block pulls/whatever you want to call them can be used for finger strength training, yea they're a bit more controlled than hangboarding and don't load your shoulders in the same way, which can be good because you won't be limited by shoulder strength/stability, but it also makes them less specific also they're amazing for rehab! hangboarding requires you to use more or less your full body weight (way too high a load for early rehab) or actively generate tension with your pulling muscles (hard to control) with otg lifts you can find just the right weight, fine tune/increase it in very small increments, and the tension will always be constant
Im 150lbs. 42 years old. a few months ago i was training fingers for awhile and was able to do 190lbs in right hand and 185 left , on 20 mm but if i tried right now probably could do 130-135lbs
I don’t think there is any research or real evidence to suggest that an open handed grip leads to more injuries. Most serious injuries come from sudden loading when feet slip. I would imagine this would be worse with a more bent finger for example. In terms of the test you could say you want someone to pull in half crimp as it is more of a demonstration of muscle strength than connective tissue strength.
Oh just note that she didn’t realise it was hers at the time. Off camera (and slightly on camera) a few minutes later she realised and got mega psyched
to be fair.. with those applied rules, individual finger length also plays a big role on how much weight you can add until your fingers start to open up
how does the second guy weigh as much as me? I'm a teenagers who wears size small everything 🤣 Weight is so subjective, I wish more people understood that.
I'm noticing some clarification is needed for the grip type we choose here:
I chose the 90 degree half crimp position for testing, since I find that the by far safest way to test people. Letting people hang from their flesh in a dragging position would (most likely but more research is needed) have a higher risk of injuring tendons in beginners. I've seen that first hand, and it's not something I want to put people at risk for to make a video. It's very hard to assess when a load is too heavy in a dragging position, especially for me who was supervising the experiment.
I also find that when people are asked to "max out" a lift, they'll use any means necessary to do so, such as sticking the skin of the pinky into one end of the edge, which effectively won't provide more strength but will make hanging or lifting easier -> increases risk of injury.
I will say though, this is anecdotal and based on talking with experts, so there's definitely room for discussion with what grip types are best for both training and testing, but this is what I expect to be the most safe.
That being said, if you're using a hangboard or portable edge for finger training, it can be good to train all positions that you might encounter on the wall. Three finger drag, open four, half crimp, anything goes really, as long as you know what you're doing and can do it safely.
Also:
Check out natureclimbing.com/ and use code: "REALDEAL" for 30% off the entire Nature Climbing store (valid until December 2nd)
Damn i trained my max to 70kg recently and i never knew you should pay attention to that. Fingers still felt healthy though, oddly enough they felt better than ever when training them 3x a week. Very good to know though,i will check if my fingers are opening up.
King for the clarification
What do you think about the position/angle of the two last phalanx? Is it ok to have a light bend when assessing strength/training finger strength (light bend = the knuckles are not at the same height as the edge you are crimping but a little bit lower, similar to a full crimp but not using the thumb).
@@TheBanana202 If you feel safe in the position you're training I wouldn't worry too much! But do consider the positions you train and how they transfer to your goals (which I assume are climbing strength related)
@@haearnhammer3733 I would say it is totally ok, we all have quite different fingers and for some the bend will be more than for others. C4HP talks a lot about difference in fingers, I would look into what they have to say for some interesting insights!
24:07 Emil "paint me like one of your french girls" Abrahamsson
Climb me like one of your French Boulders.
XD
1:45
"Hey, you needed a brush right? I can give you this one for free."
The brush: "you won't ever finish that v6 project"
“Just gonna warm up a bit” *flashes v10*
idk those grades Look super weird
@@sadababa7511 I mean, I don't blame you, and often times in the past long ago watching Emil on Eric's channel I've thought similar. But Emil is decidedly a proven wad now lol, 8C on rock is nothing to scoff at.
yea he is insane not gonna doubt him. But 7c+ in my gym ( i know thats sounds dumb) looks waaaaay different then those boulders here
@@sadababa7511 I just show the grades that are on the tags of the different gyms I'm at nowadays, so they aren't to be taken too seriously imo. Some gyms (like b-pump ogikubo) you'll see me get crushed on V2s, and some gyms I'll be flashing V12s, none of them really represent my climbing perfectly tbh.
But if you're curious for these specific climbs, I felt the boulders I climbed in this video were a bit generous 😅 Good fun though!
@@sadababa7511 That white 7c+ one is a one move boulder, I've seen plenty of people, strong people mind you, try that move and no one has been close to do it. Its crazy that he made that move look so casual.
What a great concept! We're always happy to support your ideas and help climbers get stronger. 😊 It was so nice to see you making sure no one gets injured! And Haley? She's a natural. 😉 Let her know to send us a message - she absolutely deserves a Stone Hanger of her own! What an absolute legend!
Haha I’ll be sure to let her know! As always psyched to do stuff with you absolute legends ❤️
"oh my god maybe i am a legend" 💅
Cool to see Emil warming up on my project at 0:19. Got some insight on the beta, for my next session. And the 6C at 15:10 was my first 6C ever, which is no longer there.
Super cool that you included the percentage of body weight on the graphic. I loved being able to see that along with the weight
Great video, Emil! I loved being able to see so many different climbers from different walks of life, and getting a small glimpse into their journey as a climber. It really inspired me to reflect about my own climbing, strengths, weaknesses, etc. as well. Feeling stoked to hit the gym and train as well, hehe. Thanks as always for awesome vids!
17:41 "Climbs 6B-7C" 🤣🤣🤣
'Yeah I gues he wanted to write 7a :D
6:35 in case you ever wondered why all bands at your gym are getting broken after 2 weeks XD
I always thought how this could happen... what is she doing?
@@theaumguy1621she chillin
Lmaoo
Emil doing his own version of guess the elo lol
Gothamchess was actually my inspiration for the title and thumbnail haha
Haley's forearms and hands looked strong af, even before she proved that they were
Thanks for the description of good and bad finger posture during testing. This is the first time I've heard that, but so good to know. GREAT VIDEO 👍🏽🤙🏽
I remember Felipe being on Eric's channel. Cool to have him back in a video.
He's a great climber, even though Emil said he might not be better in finger strength. That purple boulder he set looked like some strong fingers to me.
@@metanoiajuice I think Emil said: 13:00 "I think he has stronger fingers than I do".
Thank you for the video Emil! 😄
Damn Haley’s finger strength was INSANE!!
Yeah pretty mindblowing haha
A lot of women I climbed with have very strong fingers, they are often stopped by their fear.. men often are weaker but more reckless, at least when it comes to my boulder experiences
@@theaumguy1621 I have seen that on entry level climbers, as experience goes by I dont see a diference in fear in men or women. I have seen that many women are extraordinarily strong on their fingers, even without any prior training or experience.
@@rgwa555 of course because after climbing a lot, everyone conquered their fear to some extend.. she said herself shes an average climber even though shes climbing 7a.. So it looked/sounded like shes not that expierenced, but loves climbinig alot..
super fun concept video and glad to see the everyone having fun
Wow, its Felipe! Its been a while :)
I've always been baffled by these tests. I am 50yo, arthritic in both mid fingers, & have in recent years never lifted more than 25kg on the Tindeq large edge & 22.5kg on the 10mm. I used to boulder V11/12 & Sport Climb up to 8b years ago but now I can only manage V8/9 & 8a max. My finger strength correlates with a V3/5, 7a climber but I somehow find ways to climb without engaging much of my mid fingers, especially on rock. I suspect a lot of it comes from trying to maximise friction on holds & adapting with strange methods (such as using the pinkie side of the palm to wrap around holds). I also pulsate a bit to purchase more friction & help ease my fingers into less painful positions on holds. I only wished at my current weight of 56kg, I could lift as much as the lady in the video! 😮
My best friend is like this. He lifts like half of what I lift on a 25mm half crimp but he’s sent 5.12a and I’m stuck at 5.11d. He’s just a better technical climber than me and taller which accounts for much more at those grades than pure power.
I love how magnus and emil are so awkward lmao this should be coined "scandinavian awkwardness"
Very wholesome for a wet Sunday, thanks Emil!
Emil, you should do a video where you coach some of these people on their projects.
I can relate a lot to the first guy, I started climbing July 2024 and I tested my max on a 10mm edge 2 months in or so and I lifted 50kg and held for 10seconds.
I also did 40kg pinch lift for 10seconds…
Current bodyweight is 82.5Kg
The strong climbers in my gym couldn’t really believe that I could lift this amount of weight hahaha
Now I have been training this a lot and I can do 55kg for 5sets 10 reps by now :)
10mm 50 alot wow 13month sınce ı started clımbıng mıne also around 50kg, 37-38 pınch 80kg bw you are really strong on the fıngers . Also 65-70 kg on the 20mm
really cool concept for a video!
Thanks!
This Aaron guy makes sick videos. Check him out. If he gets to making documentarys he will be unstoppable!
Not sure if you have already said this, but should you do 90 degrees angle when doing no hangs also?
legend videos, thank you for uploading. 🔥🔥
No wayyy, Felipeee!!!
Man, I want coach Emil to teach me. Awesome video.
you've just proven that finger strength is just one of many factors in your climbing ability and is often a poor indicator of grade level, well done 😆
Very cool video. I really enjoyed the climbing mixed together with the tests.
Grym video. Började klättra för ett par månader sedan. Skulle ha sett videon tidigare men var och klättrade här
If you ever do another video like this it would be interesting to go into some kind of grip strength Competition and test the 20mm max this strong man can lift.
Really cool to see felipe again. Regulary watch an ekb video where he demolishes a boulder on the wave
The science of this broke down when it seems like most of the participants were not instructed to lift with their legs.
Yalla klättercentret🔥
I know it's a very long trip, but is there any chance that you'll come down to Australia to try out some gym's and possibly some outdoor boulders? Absolutely love your videos mate, keep em coming :)
Why is open hand more passive than half crimp since both are isometric? I think a better reason is just that closer to 1rm is inherently more injury risk. Going from half crimp to opening up a little is fine, but going from completely open to slipping off is going to be no bueno for your fingers.
yeah this is confusing as you train hangboarding with either open or half crimp positions and i don't think one is inherently more dangerous than the other. I think this was just a weird rule he wanted to institute. other wise dave macleod of three finger drag insanity is training dangerously?
@@SuedeNWingsyou should definitely train any grip positions you use on the wall on a board as well. I think he poorly explained or had poorly explained to him the idea that your grip should not be opening up while training half crimp, it causes a ton of friction on the pulleys which is (as far as I know) one of the real ways that hangboarding can contribute to injury
@ yeah I think that’s the proper way to explain this. Either way fun video and if you’re testing a grip position it shouldn’t change so that concept is proper. Funny enough this video did inspire me to test my half crimp compared to my drag.
Both are yielding isometrics, and passive in the same sense. The risk is the eccentric forces as you fail the half crimp, as @mainlyAndy explained.
Definitely could've been more clear on this one, added a comment at the top which hopefully clarifies my reasoning a bit 🙂
Really liked that 😊
What a cool concept!🙌
This was a fun video! I always love watching your science experiments Emil!!
Sadly though shipping to my location from Nature Climbing seems to be very high 😢
Watching those videos make me realize we have really soft grading here in Quebec, I can do v6-7 and they look easier than the v4-5 from this video!
"I'm too tired"
"Let's go test your finger strength"
Hmm....
The numbers around this are so interesting. Wondering if there's some correlation around general fitness before getting into climbing and the ratio of strength compared to body weight, since at end of the day you just have to be able to hold your own weight up. I assume need to take that into account vs straight comparison of weight lifted.
I started climbing roughly when I was 22, and before that did nothing physical. Since then (now 36) i've been climbing a decent amount (2-3 times a week, more recently 4 times a week) and roughly v5 flash grade and can work moves on problems v6-v8 (depending on style, but trouble connecting it all). Body weight of ~65kg, my no-hang is around ~20kg, might be able to push another 2-5kg for max. While in the video every one seems to be absolutely crushing the no-hangs 😂I think I need to get on a no-hang protocol and see if it's really strength that's been limiting me. One of my biggest weaknesses is being able to hold slopers, feels like my wrists will pop, and other is slab/dynamic moves which is more fear than anything else :D.
Emil, did you see Mitchel Hooper (2023 worlds strongest man) 's video on grip strength? He also "set a standard" and went around the gym getting people to test it. It would be cool to see much lighter and freakishly strong guys such as yourself also trying it.
I haven’t yet! Will have to check it out
And girls! I think we would be surprised to find many really strong fingers (especially for body weight)
great video! reminded me of how much i miss the old ekb :')
have you tried the blue 8b+ on the spraywall?
Feels weird seeing you at my gym! Good content as always Herr Emil
Which gym is it?
@@tom4794 Sorry but I don't think I should Dox him, if he wants to share his location he should =)
@dannes22 sure thing, that’s considerate of you
Back to back uploads in a week is nice!
can you explain why you say over 90° its more passive? the muscle is still contracted and actually at a longer length, which seems to be the part of a exercise which gives the most results
Why is opening the hand considered unsafe? I always heard open hand grips put less stress on the finger pulleys, which also makes intuitive sense.Does open hand put more stress on the finger flexor tendons compared to a full crimp which is what makes it unsafe?
This kind of messes with my head. I always thought a more flexed finger position put more strain on but he’s saying it’s more dangerous to be open?
for me it's definetly the other way around. Maybe 90 degress is fine, but for me the dangerous thing is going into the full crimp and not the finger drag (which has never caused me any issues)
@@rgwa555 I was talking to someone at the gym about this. They were saying that because you’re relying on the passive system, if you acquire an injury from that it will be a tendon injury.
I think it depends a lot on context, too. In the case of the vid, they’re basically maxing out finger strength with huge weights. If you’re getting to a point of failure/hands are opening, you’re risking doing something “less controlled” that could lead to injury.
Would not limit a person to be their legend only, but include the whole leg, upper body, soul and climbing spirit.. 🤓
Doesn't seem to be linked very closely to body weight. Light people can have very strong fingers. Good combination for climbing
Great video! Btw Emil are you gonna do a video on your finger injury recovery process?
I was planning to do a big ole dramatic comeback series from it, because it seemed like I would be several months out at first (finger was swollen to 2x it's size and blue), but somehow I miraculously healed in about 3 weeks so now I just have some dramatic footage from some rehab haha. We'll see though, I might do a video on finger rehab regardless
@ holy shit... that's ridiculous! Well I would very much love that sort of video! ❤️🔥 I am very glad that your finger is miraculously healing mister sloper daddy!
@@EmilAbrahamsson Would be interesting to see a vid on what to avoid/how to prevent injury, and how you got your injury - maybe also even past injuries and the lessons from them?
9:45 guy in the back doing a false start lol
great upload, emil :)
awesome video! one for support and algorithm.
jag klarade en 6b+ idag och det var min andra gånga jag klättrat är det bra eller normalt?
such a cool different video love it!
ty for the new vid 😁
Great video Emil and good performance on Haley's part! How do you think finger length of the 1st digit/pad relates to half-crimp strength? Was wondering this, since in my climbing community most girls prefer crimps and usually look very strong on them.
Most girls are shorter and quite a bit lighter on average as well on top of having smaller hands.
@@ComputerManDanMiller ...which makes crimping the best way to hold onto bad holds and the risk of injury is near to zero.
...
oh but wait!
you are tall! you only can do the boulder because you are taller then me!!!!
can't believe he got Robert Pattinson for this video
14:44 tom scott if he bouldered
NIce concepte! But I noticed, that only the girl was using her legs to lift the weight. Rest of the guys went through their backs. The legs, and straight back, might be helpful
Great video! I have also noticed that my girlfriend is has stronger fingers than me, and she weighs less and climbs a grade lower. She has also incredible strenght on the tip of her fingers she is worlds beyond me on small crimping.
The torque is way less on the fingers, for someone with shorter fingers, cause it's closer to the digits
So is this technique only for testing finger strength? Can it be used to build finger strength? How does it compare to using a hangboard?
Same concepts apply to this. Some people call it no Hangs or "off-the-grounds" (OTG). This is what i use for most of my finger training
Very similar to a hangboard with some differences. Hangboard is more sports specific, but this is (arguably) easier to track and progress with. OTG-lifts can also be a fantastic way to track your finger health
OTG/edge lifts/block pulls/whatever you want to call them can be used for finger strength training, yea
they're a bit more controlled than hangboarding and don't load your shoulders in the same way, which can be good because you won't be limited by shoulder strength/stability, but it also makes them less specific
also they're amazing for rehab!
hangboarding requires you to use more or less your full body weight (way too high a load for early rehab) or actively generate tension with your pulling muscles (hard to control)
with otg lifts you can find just the right weight, fine tune/increase it in very small increments, and the tension will always be constant
I bought my holds after watching the Eric video!
That's awesome! I hope you enjoy them as much as I do
When we will get more with Cordy? 🎉🎉🎉
Im 150lbs. 42 years old. a few months ago i was training fingers for awhile and was able to do 190lbs in right hand and 185 left , on 20 mm but if i tried right now probably could do 130-135lbs
I don’t think there is any research or real evidence to suggest that an open handed grip leads to more injuries. Most serious injuries come from sudden loading when feet slip. I would imagine this would be worse with a more bent finger for example. In terms of the test you could say you want someone to pull in half crimp as it is more of a demonstration of muscle strength than connective tissue strength.
Its a running gag with the Magnus chalk right?
Felipe!
14:46 Thought he was next to Robert Pattinson lol
I saw you were wearing mad rock villains. Wish they were more than a one time run because it’s my favorite shoe. :(
I vilken hall gjordes videon? Ser nice, nice ut.
Ok, what about slopers?!
Haley’s so sweet 🥹
Nice graphics!
Feels a little bit weird to see someone receive a gift and reply "great". Surely a thank you Haley c'mon.
Oh just note that she didn’t realise it was hers at the time. Off camera (and slightly on camera) a few minutes later she realised and got mega psyched
@@EmilAbrahamsson fair enough, my bad.
Fantastic
important question Emil, do you prefer harder or softer shoes? I need to know #shoutout nature climbing
Hmm if I had to choose I’d say softer shoes!
That guy causally falling in the background and then just lying face down for 10 seconds ruclips.net/video/n74ZfmCfimY/видео.html 🤣
You should’ve had people try both hands. Unless they were all lefties, most people are stronger with their opposite hand
I agree. 22:55
man if i didnt drink alcohol so much and ate healthy i would be so strong
what kind of v3 was that? is my gym just insanely undergrading everything? wtf
to be fair.. with those applied rules, individual finger length also plays a big role on how much weight you can add until your fingers start to open up
Fun seeing u at Telefonplan
the guy at 18:09 looks so much like Robert Pattinson
17:42 climbs 6b-7c?! 🤨
Yeah what's up with that, you've beaten me to the comments
Hey, the note ain't wrong now is it?
Apparently my fingers are about as strong as most of these guys I just weigh a lot more
35 seconds ago is diabolical
Im gonna touch you
I wish I chould be there, I always climb there😭
how does the second guy weigh as much as me? I'm a teenagers who wears size small everything 🤣 Weight is so subjective, I wish more people understood that.
second! ily emil
❤️
Gameing
Message to an enemy lol