How To: Re-Wire a Riding Lawn Mower
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Push Button Ignition (Newer models may require more wiring for anti-backfire solenoid)
A really simple wiring system that will charge your battery. Great for use on racing lawn mowers, and off road mowers who want to bypass all safety switches.
I have watched probably 10-12 rewiring videos and you by far made it look so easy. Best video yet
Same. This is the video explained exactly how I needed it.
@@andycassidy582î
Like others have said the best video I've watched so far on the subject. No useless babbling about what a safety switch is and endless rattling on about BS nobody cares about!! Thanks man!
Best video I've seen so far. Simple and to the point. Stays on topic, no talking about family, pets, or life in general. And not 45 minutes long!!!
This video saved me thousands!
I re wired my mower and I saved enough money to go fishing!
It is people such as yourself that make America wonderful!
Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!
one of the best rewire videos I have come across.
I like that this guy isn't afraid to show others all the tricks that it probably took him days to figure out!
Dude you're AWESOME!! NOW my mower cranks every time AND the battery charges now. Thank you so much for such a helpful video bro
What a cleaver guy you are. Not because you have the skills to do this it's the conferdent and super way you explain everything. Ideal for an old man like me. . Thank you again
Great video, got my old Lawnflte 504 running for the first time since I picked it up off eBay. Bypassing all he crazy safety switches and simplifying the loom and wham it started. Totally made my day Cheers man.
12year old video and still the best and simplest I could find.
Thank you very much for making this video!! I followed your steps and mid way found a way to keep an original switch (no need to add those two switches that you're mentioning). Regardless, couldn't have gotten it done without this video. Thank you again!
Can you tell me how you kept the original key switch
@@codyswilley at the 41 seconds mark, he has a diagram, a regular lawn tractor switch can work with that diagram (no need to put a toggle), you just have to wire it correctly. Match the switch's diagram to the one in this video.
@@Giorgio_Rampa I just finished it about 10 mins ago. Suoer easy if you just use your mind. I appreciate it anyway. I bought this craftsman lawnmower. And somebody put a Kohler 16hp engine on it and they literally had 3 wiring harnesses together. I already fixed it and mowed with it.
@@codyswilley glad you got it to work! 👍🏽
@@Giorgio_Rampa only thing I'm not sure of is the 2 wires that come off of the stater. A black one and a green one. The black one had a diode but it was busted when I got it. I hooked it up correctly but the green one I hooked up to solenoid and when I tried starting it it would hum under the flywheel. I unhooked the green one and it runs good. Dont know if it will charge the battery but it runs good lol
Seen a lot of dodgy things on here that I shake my head at.
But my ignition stopped, I bought 1 press switch,, 1 On Off switch.
Followed this guys basics and works like a dream, still have all the safety switches working too.
This is a very sturdy and well built mower. I thought I wouldn't like the foot operated speed control but after one use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTZSPVwJFBv2hORqhQamtxi-tAe5K2EtC , I can't believe I ever had one without it. It drives like a car with an automatic transmission. Easy to adjust mowing speed according to grass depth/thickness. I have yet to get used to the long throw of the blade engagement lever but kind of get why it is that way. It allows you to hold mowing for short moments if you need. The engine seems very substantial and the frame has very little flex, both adding up to an impressive package. All my previous tractors were 18 to21 hp with 42in decks. This one is 23/46. I mow about 1.5 acres about every 5 days here in Alaska and that mowing time has been reduced by about 20%, partly due to the very tight turning radius. No loop arounds lol. Hour meter, cruise control, reverse mowing capability,deck cleanout and easy assembly all add up to a very well thought out tractor.
You probably won't read this one but just thought I'd say you deserve alot of respect because I've watched like 15 videos and this one is the one that actually showed me what I don't wrongw. So thanks
Incredible. Exactly the info I needed. Thank you so much!
like others have said, best video I've watched trying to get my head around this. Had the fuel tank split on my mower (while mowing...), the mower burst into flames and melted the wiring cover, which shorted the wires and caused the rest of them to melt and catch on fire. Have to completely re-wire the mower and want to eliminate all the unnecessary stuff, just need it to start, stop and engage the pto. Factory wiring diagrams were doing my head in.. contemplated just buying another mower, now have a better grasp to have a crack at re-wiring myself. Your a legend!
the 2 wires come from the stator, which is like an alternator... there usually isn't a regulator, but I have messed with anything that new so I dont know for sure
I had watched lots of videos and could not understand until I watched yours so thank you
Fearless! Thanks for that wiring diagram. I just used it on my craftsman rear engine rider.
Thanks again man!
Thank you so much my mud mower has been sitting 3 years due to electric problems I got it working in 2 days now I can terrorize the town again
Heloo
@@lifeononeweel3008 hi
@@hillbillydipper9199 HIII WYD
Make sure the solenoid has a good ground, needs bare metal where it mounts. and make sure all the safety switches are in the proper position.
@Otaruihc Thanks man! to answer you q, No, the alternator does like a trickle charge to the + of the battery, only when its running. And the alternator on these motors isn't like what you see on a car. it's stationary. and its wire is hooked up to the side of the solenoid that has constant power. the fuse should be between the alt charge wire and the batt+ terminal. I donno if I put it there or not. Id have to go look, and it's not here right now.
I followed your wiring instructions and bypassed the safety switches, and cut my foot off the first time I cranked the mower. I'm suing!
Just kidding. Your video helped me immensely! I never understood the purpose of all those safety switches, except for the seat switch. It makes sense if you fell off, so the mower wouldn't keep going and run over something or drive itself into the street. But the others seem pointless. I mean, I'm pretty sure if I'm about to crank my mower I'm going to have my foot on the brake and the transmission in neutral. I am also pretty sure I know the blades would start spinning immediately if I cranked it with the mower deck down and the blades engaged. But we live in a world full of idiots with lawyers on speed dial...
Again, thanks for helping me get my free mower running with your excellent information! Next step: toggle switch for the headlights. Not that I'll ever mow in the dark, but I use my mowers for hauling stuff too, like logs and such, and moving my teardrop camper around the property.
awesome man! I'm glad I could help.
I also hate the little nancy-boys that are scared of there own shadow... Drives me crazy.. lol
Fearlessfront Thanks so much I got volunteered into doing this and have no clue how thanks so much!
FearlessFront (Todd Christopher) I have a red and green wire coming off my solenoid which one do I use
@@Fearlessfront dose this wiring work for V twin engines ? I have a wire running off the carb kinda confused what to do
I know this is very late for a comment but this helped alot this is one of the only videos I could find to rewire my mudmower fast and simple
Great job, and you did all that without cussing, Thanks
best rewire video there is, others say there's is simple and go on forever yours is short and to the point. i rewired my murray in 20 mins. thanks a lot.
Thank you for making a rats nest seem so simple to fix.
Dude great video, 12 years later i got this mower that the previous homeowner left behind running.
I have two wires from the strator, which are black and yellow. what goes to what?
ryan derengowski usaly the black is changing and yellow is for your headlights. But not always. Start your engine and use a test light the one that lights up the light brighter is for your headlights. Hope this helps
You are the man. Like others, I have watched a ton of videos addressing starter issues and yours is the simplest by far and the most beneficial. Thank you for doing this one. Please keep them coming.
What if the motor has a fuel shut off solenoid on the bowl. Does that go to switched or hot side?
This goes to the switched 12V. But not on the starter solenoid! You need a seperate ignition switch, you hook it op to the input terminal of the starter solenoid, and the other end goes to the fuel shut off. Once you flick the switch you'll allow the dancing pixies to reach the fuel shut off solenoid and it'll open, letting fuel through
I'd reccomend not using it. Just cut the plunger off and put it back in and don't wire it in.
+1 on what Tj said I had one on my 17.5 briggs and just ground the plunger off and cut the wires it's just another headache to mess with imo
AR1G3 is right. i had one, and if you don't put a switch on it, it'll slowly flood and/or hydrolock the engine
Snake Doc if it’s that new that it has that many electronics, throw it over the hill. It’s junk. Unless you can make your own which is actually pretty much simple. The hard part is being able to mix the air and fuel properly.
thank u todd this is the best mower rewire video ever. im 15 years old and i was able to rewire my 1986 mtd lawnflight 5 speed and it was a breez after watching your video thank u for it
Bro you are the greatest teacher ever!! Simple, cheap but works. I give you 5 stars
you can unscrew fuel cut off solenoid out of the bottom of the carb, and there is a little rubber plunger on the end of it. Get a nice pair of snips and cut it off. then screw it back in and snip off the wires.
done
Thanks, Todd! A neighbor gave me his rider for free because it has ignition/kill switch issues. It's only 10 years old! Anyway, I'll follow your instructions and see if I can get this baby rolling.
Dude my two boys are very happy now for tractor rides today. Thankyou. Works great.
Was just staring at the mess of wires on this rider I have and feeling hopeless. This makes a lot more sense, instead of trying to figure out what the hell is happening just rewire it. Have to think of a way to make the seat safety shut-off work, as I'm intending to sell this mower with the deck installed. Thanks for this video, I'll be using that diagram for sure.
I just did a swap on my craftsman of same body style. Motor is a 19hp off a craftsman t2500, previous motor was a 12 hp. This video allowed me to get it to crank with spark. Now time to add fuel and play in crik
Good work mate, easy to follow and for me,explaining how the solenoid worked is what i was after.Thanks.
thx so much todd i bought a atv beginning of the year and it was pull start only cause someone rigged the wiring harness after i watched ur video it inspired me to do some work on my atv and i done a compleyely new wiring harness and did i mention i just turned 16 on November 20, 2015
Sorry i wasnt paying complete attention to the video now that i watched it again i better understand it now. Thanks for helping me out with my build.
Second time I used this video as a reference to bring a mower back from the dead.
Fearless you are peerless.
I appreciate this video, the previous owner of my mower did this and I had to figure out what the F they did when it stopped starting on me. I had it running within 5 minutes of watching your video
I want to thank you for the information that you gave me to help get my mower started keep up the good work teaching everyone something about working on mowers
@blackduckslayers the red and whit wires are alternator hook ups. you should use one as a recharge, and the other for headlights. the push button gets power from your bat. and sends a small signal to your solenoid, causing it to engage and kick on the starter. sounds like you might have a positive wire contacting a ground if it's smoking.
run some jumper cables from a battery and clamp the ground to frame and hot directly to the bolt on starter, if the starter doesnt turn over its a bad starter. if its turning over but not cranking check for spark. pull out sparkplug and touch the tip to motor and turn over starter, you should see spark jumping from the electrode on sparkplug
I was thinking about running a wire to a toggle/pressure switch directly from the battery to the starter since I’m having trouble with the starter switch on the dash. That way I can still use the factory switch to turn the mower off. I’ll have to watch the video again to see what you did. Excellent video BTW.
I did this to my mower and it works Awesome. No more mess of wires. Thanks for posting this video. Maybe we could go for a ride sometime, I live near Houlton
your the man!!!! Thanks so much for this. You explained everything very clearly!! I always thought I could tackle everything on a mower except wiring, until now!
Man you are a legend, could not get my head around this one till i watched this, super simple and worked a treat
@TheElgorr the push button gets its power from the + batt, then goes to the small terminal on the solenoid. the big red cable goes from the batt +, to one side of the solenoid, the the other large red cable goes from the other big pin on the solenoid, to the starter.
RIGHT ON 😃 safety switches are driving me nuts, great info I think I will do this to all my riders 👍
@borntoberebel12 the bigger wire should help. also check your ground on the solenoid, it grounds where it bolts to the frame. make sure the metal is clean. try tapping the solenoid or starter a little bit too, some times they get stuck.
Than you for taking the time to create and post this vid. I had been struggling to fix the ignition system on a little tractor and your explanation was enough to gederdun!
Thanks a lot on your comments on the switch on the swisher, it was simple and to the point and the main thing is it worked great. Ken
@LEE100462 right, same as I said b4, the BIG red cable goes from the starter to the solenoid only. one of the alternator wires (doesn't matter which one) goes to the BATTERY + side of the solenoid (not the starter cable side), and the other one goes to the headlights or whatever.
Hands down the best video I have seen on this. Thanks my friend!
Just what I been looking for, all the videos I been watching yours the best, thanks so much, now I can really get back to wiring my mower.
I’m fairly handy but man I wish I had some basic classes in school about these sorts of things. Your understanding of the situation and ability to simplify is very admirable.
I’m in the process of understanding it but it’s a lot more difficult that if I grew up with it
Once I started school, schools were mostly done actually teaching kids. By then and since, it’s been pure propaganda
thanks brother, I been wasting time trying to figure out all the darn swithes and decided to do what you are doing and found your vid wow, what a help I will do it just like you outline peace and thanks again I would have saved a lot of time if id thought of a you tube search in the first place
This video helped me a lot I bought a mower that I'm going to build and it had no wiring at all beside the solenoid it's self thanks a lot😁
Yes! Great video, concise and understandable. (I have the biggest words.) Got my hands in a GT5000 dashboard THIS WEEK. Ya, it was kicking my tail 'til I watched this vid. Keep it up, bru.
this is useful info for ever guy who's battery drains every time you mow because of a series of bad safety switches
try this:
The wires that go into the carb are for an electric fuel cut off, you can unscrew that thing out of the bottom of the carb, and there is a little rubber plunger on the end of it. Get a nice pair of snips and cut it off. then screw it back in and snip off the wires.
thats it
the lights hook to the other alt wire, or if split off of the one u'd use to charge the batt, and run it to a switch then to the headlights.
VERY good video, exactly what I was looking for, about to pickup a free murray tomorrow because of a "electrical problem". Bet it runs good after a little re-wiring
Thank you so much I wired my mower up today and your video is the only one I could understand thank you
@scottcuccio this is intended to bypass all the safety switches. if you wire it this way it will run, no matter what, until you kill it.
@greasyredneck My guess is your bushings are loose, either the one where the steering shaft passes though the dash board (theres a little plastic bushing in there) or there are a few more in the steering itself. If you replace those it'll tighten up. You can still get alot of parts from sears.
I have watch this video about five times and plan on trying it next week while on vacation
@z54177 it will just be really fast and it will wear out quicker. if you have a few spares then go for it. if not, then you may want to scale it back if you want to be riding it next summer
@PolarisJD anything with 12v with a switch, so you don't leave it on and drain the batt...
OR you can unscrew that little thing out the bottom and cut the top thingy off there and put it back in.... no power needed
great job explaining sir. i havent found a easier way than you just showed thanks!
I'm glad you do videos like this because its good to learn stuff like that
@TheRUSSELLBOY it's a + wire, but yeah. it passes though one side and goes to the solenoid switch wire.
well i just did this on mine and it worked perfectly thank you, all i have to do is flip the toggle switch so up is on, very good video thanks.
Thank you so much for this video , helped me rewire a mod 90s western auto wizard. From a fellow mainer from rockland.
Well I just redone my electrical with your planogram feerless, it turned out great! Thanks a bunch for your detailed vids they have been a great help and inspiration...
@TheTubbyKid check the solenoid ground, it has to be clean where it bolts in, thats it's ground. and make sure your other connections are good too. Also, Make sure your battery has a good charge, and if it's still clicking, try tapping it and/or the starter.
Successfully completed the re-wiring of my mower!!!!!
Fearlessfront, for the charging wire, do u run it straight to your hot wire on your sylnoid or through your wire with the fuse in it? I have the same model craftsman, it had the same harness and I ran the wires just like on ur mower, I just wanna be double sure so I don't mess up the alternator, thank you for ur time
keep the fuse so you don't take the chance of blowing up the battery
Thanks a lot I bought an old 1986 mtd from craigslist I rewired it just like this with complete success love the push to start aspect.
Great video I had three riding lawn mowers and they are all down because I haven't been able to figure that out I tried so many different things thanks really good video A+ 👍🚜
@pivotboy63 you must have solenoid if you want to stop frying switches. or get a switch capable of switching really high amperage
@LEE100462 red goes to the battery + like in this video, the other wire is for headlights, if you don't have them, then you can just cut it off and leave it.
@fattypipemuarry either splice off of the charge wire (if you only have one) or use the white wire that comes out of the top cover with the red wire.
@TheRUSSELLBOY if the battery is low it will click like that. Or maybe your solenoid is bad? what happens when you jump the solenoid with a screwdriver?
yes, keep the diode if it's got one. it usually behind the connector so if u leave the connector, the diode should still be there
Just hooked up the push button start to a 16 hp kohler opposed k series. Cannot attempt to start as the engine still needs work. But when I press the button it cranks. It actually does work. Good idea
Never tried it on a kohler, Glad to hear it! thanks for the info!
Thank you, perfect instructional video, simple and to the point.
unless it's higer voltave , than no... does the charging wire have a diode in it? if not, you need one immediately!
@koolforever1 Oh my god! are you sure u got it right? there should only be like 2 or 3 wires coming out of the engine. the one under the flywheel goes to the + battery side of the solenoid (not the side that goes to the starter) the black one goes to the toggle, and then to ground, and take power from the + batt run it to our button, then to the small terminal on the solenoid
This is the second time I've watched this video... Thank you for posting this .
I will be using it in the next couple days .
You did an awesome job on this video, everything made sense and it was easy to follow.
Love the mod and the wire diagram was good and easy to follow .. I was thinking about a 3 way switch for my hov 20 kohler with the electric shut off but now I'm just going to snip it .. They to go out and now one less thing
could be a bad battery, how old is it? they only last a few years if you take care of them. Also double check that your charging wire goes to the + battery side of the solenoid, not the side with the wire that goes to the starter.
@70craftsman red to charge the batt, the other one can be used for headlights, or just cut off.
@italkfan you could just touch the battery + wire to the starter terminal... a toggle switch that switches that much current would cost more than the solenoid.
just use one of the wires to charge the battery, and the other should go to your headlights. The wires that go into the carb are for an electric fuel cut off, you can unscrew that thig out of the bottom of the carb, and there is a little rubber plunger on the end of it. Get a nice pair of snips and cut it off. then screw it back in and snip off the wires.
@z54177 It must be an mtd varidrive pulley system under there? If so they're ok for modding, not the best, but still better then a hydrostatic.