500+ HP Duramax Supporting Mods/Reliability
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- From daily driving to hauling trailers to sled pulling/drag racing we expect reliability and drivability out of these trucks every day. What can you do to make sure your Duramax can sled pull or drag race Saturday night and get you to work Monday morning?
Instagram: @raberle_lb7
Facebook: Reid Aberle
Email: raberle2@gmail.com
Feel free to get ahold of me for any questions/business inquiries!
2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD LB7 Duramax
Here is a list of everything done to this truck to date:
Engine:
Headgaskets/ARP Studs
Stock Injectors
DuramaxTuner Built Trans Tuning
HSP Diesel 3"Hot/Cold Side Piping
HSP Diesel 4" Fabbed Intake
DRP 3.5" Intake Horn
WCFab 3" Ybridge
LML Drivers Side Exhaust Manifold
Danville Performance Pinned LBZ Waterpump
WoldFab Quantum Max 64mm Turbocharger
HSP Diesel Corner Mount Coolant Reservoir
HSP Diesel Billet Thermostat Cross over pipe
Fuel:
Fass Titanium 150 Lift Pump
1/2" Fuel line running directly to 1/2" inlet fitting on LBZ CP3 and FPR
BD Sump Kit
FPRV Block Off Kit
Transmission/Transfercase:
Built Transmission with Suncoast Gmax 5 Kit and Suncoast 1056 TD Converter
Trans Tuning for Defuel shutoff and 2nd Gear launch
Rebuilt transfercase with Pump Rub Kit
5/8" trans cooler lines
TCase Brace and new Transmission mounts
Allison Deep Pan/Filter Kit
Steering:
PPE Pitman/Idler Arm Braces and new Pitman/Idler Arms
Rare Parts G2 Tie Rods
Empire Stainless Steel Straight Centerlink
Redhead Steering Gearbox
Performance Steering Products Power Steering Pump
Bilstein Steering Dampner
Suspension:
HSP Diesel 70" Traction Bars
Fox 2.0 Front Shocks
Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks
All new Timken Wheel bearings
Cognito Upper Control Arms
Kryptonite Swaybar Links
Hellwig Rear Swaybar
New GM front bumpstops
MA Rear Suspension Stops
Detroit Trutrac/New axle seals and bearings in rear axle
Exhaust:
3" MBRP Downpipe
5" Magnaflow Straight Pipe
DMAXStore MaxFlow Manifolds & Up Pipes
Wheels/Tires:
Gear Big Block 725BM 20x12 -44 Wheels
305/50/R20 Toyo Proxes
1.5" Spacers in rear
The world needs more men like you
That turbo sound though, love the Duramax Build man
This guy needs more subs!!!!!!!!!
Hunter Strantz Its still a fairly new channel so we’re working on it slowly but surely! Thanks for watching!
Love watching these videos. Keep pumping out videos like this the and pull videos!
JD Kirane Thanks for your support sir I appreciate it! Im a little slow right now bc were in full swing harvest mode but Ive got a big event next weekend with dirt drags/pulls/dyno so Im pretty excited to put up that video!
I see this is an older vid but nice build! I'm rebuilding my worn out front end on my LBZ. Using Moog parts and also adding a lift pump. Trucks been lifted n built for 12+ years.
Really want to set up compounds now but then I need a full built tranny. Right now I only run a Transgo Jr. & deep pan. So much we can do with these gems!...
Can you leave a full build list please. I have a 2005 lly duramax with 282k on it the head gasket has already taken its own path. I’m looking to do a 500hp build
I added the full build list into the description of the video! That should be everything the truck has done to date.
Can you list of everything done to your truck
Roy Smith , yeah not much you tubers has built lb7 trucks. I have a built lb7 with 5-600 hp. I think?. And it whistles good on built .I got a outdoor channel , and I might do a review on my truck. If your interested? Has big wheels and big power.
Sure thing. Here goes.
Engine:
Headgaskets/ARP Studs
Stock Injectors
DuramaxTuner Built Trans Tuning
HSP Diesel 3"Hot/Cold Side Piping
HSP Diesel 4" Fabbed Intake
DRP 3.5" Intake Horn
WCFab 3" Ybridge
LML Drivers Side Exhaust Manifold
Welded Water Pump
Rebuilt Port/Polished Turbo
HSP Diesel Corner Mount Coolant Reservoir
HSP Diesel Billet Thermostat Cross over pipe
Fuel:
Fass Titanium 150 Lift Pump
1/2" Fuel line runnig directly to 1/2" inlet fitting on LBZ CP3 and FPR
BD Sump Kit
FPRV Block Off Kit
Transmission/Transfercase:
Built Transmission with Suncoast Gmax 5 Kit and Suncoast 1056 TD Converter
Rebuilt transfercase with Pump Rub Kit
5/8" trans cooler lines
TCase Brace and new Transmission mounts
Allison Deep Pan/Filter Kit
Steering:
PPE Pitman/Idler Arm Braces and new Pitman/Idler Arms
Rare Parts G2 Tie Rods
Empire Stainless Steel Straight Centerlink
Redhead Steering Gearbox
Performance Steering Products Power Steering Pump
Bilstein Steering Dampner
Suspension:
HSP Diesel 70" Traction Bars
Fox 2.0 Front Shocks
Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks
All new Timken Wheel bearins
Cognito Upper Control Arms
Kryptonite Swaybar Links
Hellwig Rear Swaybar
New GM front bumpstops
MA Rear Suspension Stops
Detroit Trutrac/New axle seals and bearings in rear axle
Exhaust:
3" MBRP Downpipe
5" Magnaflow Straight Pipe
Wheels/Tires:
Gear Big Block 725BM 20x12 -44 Wheels
305/50/R20 Toyo Proxes
1.5" Spacers in rear
Thats essentially it, may have forgotten a few things. Truck dynoed 511hp/972 lb-ft torque last year before I rebuilt a turbo and replaced the OEM one. Turbo is still the limiting factor on power but I enjoy playing around in the stock turbo classes so I dont plan to change that as of now.
What are you running for injectors and turbo if I may ask?
Lol your speaking the painful truth man. My lly has headstuds and a ppe stage 5 trans, still has the small efi live tune I got from Danville. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my front end, getting a lift pump, rebuilding transfercase ect before I start pulling more power. Its killing me but got to build it right before I ask more of the driveline.
Jayme Timmerman Amen man! Its the sad truth but before you can push more power through a system that wasn’t designed for it you have to beef it up! Otherwise all your reliability will go right out the window.
Once my restoration is finished on my 98 Z71 my next truck will probably be a LB7 duramax. Mainly cause the lb7s around here are cheap cause of the injectors. I'm hoping too do a 500-550 HP build my biggest fear is breaking the crankshaft what's your thought of that fire order changing camswap?
For the 500-550 hp range is there is no need for that kind of money or involvement. That power level is easy to achieve, simply good efi live tuning, a lift pump, and a built trans will put you in the 510-530 hp range pretty reliably. My own truck ran in that range for 3.5 years, now a little higher without any lower end attention.
@@FixedVaneDuramax What Cars have you gapped?
What’s the best tune for my lbz for reliability and power?
What have you done to keep your EGTs down?
You sound like Trevor from Trailer Park Boys lol
If you do straight centerlink do you still need to get idler arm and pitman arm brace
Dallas Proctor Good question. Typically what most guys will do is actually get the pitman/idler arm braces along with heavy duty tie rods(or at least sleeves) and call it a day. That will generally be good enough in most situations. If you are pushing big power or competing frequently you may still need to get a good straight centerlink as well. I would hold off on the centerlink until it is a worry point if you are daily driving your vehicle because they do cut down your turning radius somewhat. Now as far as running a straight centerlink without braces, that Im not really sure about, I dont know anyone personally who is running that set up. If I had to imagine it would perform better than a oem centerlink as it has no arms to push against, but it will still have some movement allowing the wheels to point in towards one another slightly. Hopefully this is helpful, I would buy sleeves/tie rods, support braces, and a centerlink in that order personally.
Ok i got an 05 1 ton dd, plus tow might sled pull a couple times a year just planning build now
@@FixedVaneDuramax i think kryptonite has center link that is for dd trucks that dont cut down turning radius
Dallas Proctor I gotcha thats great! Its fun to have a truck you actually use but can have some fun with on the side. For that you really would be fine with HD tie rods and braces in my opinion but you can make that decision. As far as centerlinks go I described that wrong, my turning radius isnt really diminished, but the truck kind of jumps a little at full crank as the wheels arent as perfectly aligned as when they have the oem link. Maybe kryptonite has one that doesnt do that which would be slick, I am running an Empire Performance SS centerlink which has done well to this point.
Thats why i asked cause the way you deacribed how it works thought maybe could get away with just centerlink and tie rods