Pausing A 3D Printer to Embed Hardware | Creality K1 Max | How To Modify G-Code
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- In this video we are going to design a part with embedded hardware, learn how to calculate the layer line heights and how to modify G-code to force a print to Pause at the right time to insert hardware. This is all being done on a K1 Max but but this process can be done with nearly any printer.
On the K1 and K1 Max you need to type PAUSE in the G code where you want the pause to happen. This will lower the print bed and move the extruder out of the way. If you are using other sliders they may have an option stop option directly in the slicer or you may need to add M0 to your code to pause it.
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K1 (max) runs Klipper, not Marlin. Marlin doesn't know the PAUSE command, but has many commands Klipper doesn't know (unless you define them as macros). And you would better switch to a better slicer like OrcaSlicer so you can add such pauses without having to manually edit gcode ...
Thanks for the info. Yeah i think i saw some bad info online about the K1 running Marlin..... I did a follow up video showing how to do this in Orca, Prusa and the updated Creality slicer and explained why I don't like to use them. Everyone has a preference and for the amount I need to pause prints (very rarely) I am totally fine doing it manually :)
The short of it is that I prefer the UI/UX of the older creality slicer vs the new one. I like a simple interface and all my settings to be in one place and a larger dialog to edit them when needed vs them being tucked into smaller menus.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign I'm kinda happy to see that I'm not the only person who's not a fan of the new Creality Print version. I love using it, because all I have to do is send my file/g-code to the printer through my network and that's it. And that's a functionality I haven't found in any other slicer for use with my K1. And thank you for this clear tutorial.
@@DianavanderPluijm That makes at least two of us :). I haven't found it to be any easier so I just stick with the old one :)
I have successfully used a technique many times, that Makers Muse demonstrated. Instead of trying to print a circle in thin air after the nut is inserted, I print a 0.2 layer bridging the hole. This thin web / layer supports the layers above and easily breaks away afterwards.
Great tip thanks!
How is that even a question 😅. Of course I want to learn more from you 😁.
Thank you for the great content 🙏
My pleasure!
Excellent tutorial Matt!.
Thanks Tony!
Instead of doing that gcode editing, why dont you just select pause in the slicer?
To the best of my knowledge I wasn't able to get that to work in the Creality Slicer like you can in Cura or Prusa. You "should" be able to right click on the layer bar on the right and pause but I was un-able to. If you know of a way to do that in the Creality Slicer I would love to know as that would be much easier !
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign The most popular slicers being used are being used for a reason. I’m not looking to use a slicer that makes things more complex when you can just use “pause” the print. Does your printer force you into a proprietary slicer? If not ditch the Creality slicer.
The K1 max isn't tied to the Creality Slicer, but I prefer it and got better results with it out of the box than others. The updated Creality print (5.1) has the ability to pause the print but the UI/UX is so much worse. I have used the Orca slicer and don't like its ui/ux either. I have sliced with Fusion and other slicers as well. The creality slicer ver 4 just worked out of the box after tweaking the temps a little. It printed great for a long time. All these slicers are based off the same thing. Creality is based on Cura. Orca is based on Prusa. A lot of the UI/UX elements carry over but for me I want to bring a model in, use my preset and print.
But thats why in the video i mentioned other slicers like orca and prusa let you pause. maybe ill do an updated video showing the options in others, but the slicer for me is still creality print v4. Clean UI. I can get to the settings i need if/when I need them without it feeling like a science project all the time :)
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign I’m going to pass on Creality for the slicer. Nearly all of my printers are Creality (both resin and filament). I’m certainly a Creality printer fan.
As for what I use, I found that Cura is probably the best in my opinion. As I’m an Engineer, I love to tinker to get results. With Cura I have turned on the ability to see every setting that Cura has. This is no doubt way beyond what the average user does as most tend to keep things simple and as close to plug and play as possible. They also tend to learn to accept lesser quality prints for that compromise.
Slicers are no doubt very much a personal preference tool. I’ve explored all the popular slicers andfFor me Cura is my go to. Yours seems to be Creality for reasons you have and that’s fine.
What you have in this video has extra steps that I see as unnecessary. If you’re fine with the process you’re welcome to keep it. I dont see it as ideal though.
It is still solid content as it shows off the introduction of hardware into a print which a lot of folks may not have been aware of. Tip of the hat for bring the awareness to it.
Another idea for you is, instead of printing on the nut which not everyone will have first time success. You can design a 5layer thick Hex cap with hole for the bolt to be printed first. Modify this design to add 5 more layers before you stop print. Drop nut in, then set Hex cap on top which if designed correctly for tolerances will fit and be smooth flush with layer height you stopped at. So, now when you start your printer back up. Its printing on plastic again and you'll have a better and more successful print.
Thats a great idea! Thanks
Very useful tip and great video thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
i've been using threaded inserts recently. i'm definitely going to be trying this next protect. thanks for great videos
Threaded inserts and hot melt inserts work great for sure. This technique will work for other things like magnets too
Could you have inserted a Nut from McMaster Carr? I have that option and it helps when it's a nut or bolt I'm working around.
I do that all the time. Bring in the part as a Step, place it where I want the cut out, and use the combine tool and cut out the nut. Or better yet, project the perimeter of the nut, and push/pull to make the nut 0.1mm larger around the sides, then cut it out.
I don't captivate parts in a print, as it's a pain in the ass and I have to babysit the print. The old school way is much stronger as well, since it has more plastic to squish.
This looks cute and cool, but not necessary.
For those situations where something has to be embedded, I split the part in half, print it, then glue everything together with the parts embedded inside.
@@piconanohow does the glued parts hold up? For a low stress part for example?
@@nahuelise4055 All the crazy glued parts in my experience were far stronger than a straight printed ones under high stress, if the top and bottoms were printed and not only fill.
You can but you just want to be sure you measure the physical nut. While the tolerance on the drawings on mcmaster parts will be correct you should validate the 3d model.
As for if you need to embed parts into a print it just depends on the situation. I have made loads of parts with an open hex and pressed a nut into them and it works just fine. You can glue parts together around hardware if you wish but there are use cases for many situations. If you never have to pause a print at a layer and have another method that is easier then for sure go that route.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign I've fallen into that hole before. From there on, I prefer my nut holes to be a bit loosy goosy. That sounded terrible lol. That also gives the option of using different nut sizes.
As long as the nut drops in place without me having to hammer it in or vise grip it to death, and it doesn't spin inside the hole, I'm happy with it.
One drop of crazy glue or blue Loctite, around the outside of the nut after assembly, sets it in place and doesn't come out.
Super good timing,i was designing a catch can for a drag bike that will be mounted on the extended swingarm and i tought of adding 3 nuts inside the print,one for a inlet fitting,one for the outlet and another at the bottom for a drain plug.
Was thinking about printing it on PLA ,do you think that it will withstand the heat? Its pretty far from the engine and the exhaust
Awesome! PLA might withstand the heat but I think the bigger problem will be the chemicals on the inside. If you use something like a tank liner like POR15 you might get away with it.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign Ive looked into it and looks super useful! Thanks a lot again,btw the extended swingarm is a prototype that i designed in sheet metal in fusion to laser cut and weld,i'll try upload a pic when is finished
@@nahuelise4055 Awesome. definitely send me a pic. support@caducator.com Since you are doing a welded swingarm you could weld on some threaded bungs for inlet nipples and a drain and use the swingarm as the catch can. I ran a UFO divided catch can on my race bike but was never quite happy with it and always wanted to build my own.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign for now i'll start slow and see if this design is successful,if it works well the next one will have the integrated can
I see your still using the old creality print.Creality print 5.0 is much better plus it has 0.8 layer height and much better layout.
Thanks for the tip! With Creality Scan it always yells at me that there is an update, but Creality Print must not. Do you know if 5.0 gives you the ability to add a Pause point in the software vs having to do it manually?
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign Sorry i dont but you would of thought so.
@@dodge1235 I downloaded it today and it does as well as custom g code at a layer. Man i do not like the change in UI though :) I am going to add a second video. I have cura. prusa, orca, and the 2 creality slicers (plus fusion) and ill show it in a few slicers.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign It took me a while to get use to the UI but im ok with it now.I wish the K1 MAX was in cura as a default printer.