**Want to own the tools I use ?? Click on the amazon link below to get my top 5 Tools I use** Automotive Test Light- amzn.to/3z1Pdxa Flexible Backprobe- amzn.to/3Pyr3zO Multimeter- amzn.to/3PbuT23 OBD Scan Tool- amzn.to/3zaNWnq Wire Piercing Probe- amzn.to/3OecWhT
Great basic rundown of the procedure, Oz! That being said.... I find the best way to check individual circuits draw is after confirming an excess draw on the whole system, reconnect the battery, make sure doors, good switches etc are latched and make sure the CANbus has no more activity, then check voltage drop across the individual fuses, which you then convert the voltage drop to a current value using charts specifically for the type of fuse (or just use an Amp Hound). The problem with pulling fuses on a lot of modern day vehicles is that removing a fuse can cause other systems on the CAN network to activate, and create current draw, leading you down the garden path! Another method I have found works well if the current draw is large enough is to use an InfraRed camera and scan the fuses for heat (current flow on a circuit produces heat) and identify the individual circuit that way. The IR camera can then be used to monitor components on that particular fuses circuit to check if they are hot or not. Have a great New Year 🤘
Awesome. I think I brought up the test procedure by voltage drop on the fuse. But I found some vehicles have some fuses that don’t have access to the metal prongs on the fuses. As of the IR camera I might want to whip my flir out and give it a shot again.
@@OzMechanics So keep the key on when you're doing a voltage drop test across the top of the blades of the fuses, the Ignition will keep the system hot and you can check every fuse as u go.
Nice I was thinking the same thing about pulling fuses and possibly waking up a monitor or something. I've done this parasitic draw test and I get .00 why
Had I watched for a few more minutes I would have seen that. I spent two hours this morning doing the same on my 09 Silverado. You may have cured mine. The switch for my RF window located on the LF door has been "testy" for a few months. But that would be only with the key on. Back at it tomorrow. Thanks..Arnie
If you feel like this video helped out, feel free to support the channel by donating. Just one click away on the link below, to help support the channel :) www.paypal.me/ozmechanics
Perfect I needed this to keep myself from hours of hard work. Thanks so much for the great intel you gave I’m saving time and money. Just so having the exact same issue. Need more like you around God Bless
Great diagnostic job! You said this was the first time you've come across a window switch causing the draw... what component do you usually find causing it? Or is there no one component that usually fails?
Thanks for the dignostic video. have similar problem in parcidic voltage drop on my 1998 chev. Will do similar tests to see if I can Isolate problem. I beleive previous owner replaced driver side door..
Great explanation! I just found the battery 30A fuse was the gremlin causing the drain but now I gotta find what connection to the battery is causing it any idea where to begin?. Truck already has cheap aftermarket stereo I think it was installed wrong from previous owner stereo won’t turn off when key is out I have to manually turn it off. truck is a 1991 k1500
If you see in the 3:30 mark I put .050 is 50 milliamps. I know the conversation is just I made a mistake. On that shot. Did you watch the rest to see that ?
@@slovepab6 yea, I just looked at it. I was trying to think what I was thinking when I put that. And all that made sense was when I was reading it out 1.61 milliamps so coming out saying, (one point sixty-one milliamps)
SUBSTANTIAL Oz Mechanics Tutorial great thank you very much helpful video .God bless you and all your family around you Oz Mechanics From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Set up my multimeter. 12.4 draw? Surely nothing is going to draw that much power does that mean I have an unintentional ground somewhere? I pulled all the fuses in engine bay and in cab no change at all. Disconnected the alternator as well as removed the power wire running to it because I was told on these trucks it likes to burn up.
The intro was fast, not boring, and the subscribe and Bell thing was perfect; I appreciate that intro instead of hearing one of my other favorite RUclipsrs telling me to"ring that Bell" every video. Love you Scotty but I'm tired of hearing ring that Bell
OZ, I have a 08 Sierra 5.3L that keeps draining my battery also but I did what you did on this video, my meter shows 0.01 so it way below 0.05 what you were saying? Any other advise for me?
I'm having a situation where I started with a constant 2.8 amp draw after determining that pulling the radio fuse dropped the draw from 2.8 to 700 milliamp. After further testing I was able to eliminate another 400 milliamps by pulling the cluster gauge fuse. Now I am left with a 300 amp draw that I cannot seem to isolate. I'm also having intermittent issues with left rear door ajar, and dome lights staying on unless manually overridden. Any input would be greatly appreciated. 2003 chevy avalanche z71 4x4 5.3l
Was up oz awesome video bro. However, I have a 08 silverado lt 1500 5.3 extended cab. I changed the tcm, cut each wire 1 by 1 underneath it, replaced spark plugs, disconnected the computer along with battery. Reconnected comp and batterry. But my instrument cluster is not working, all gauges work, just not my mileage and the readings from dic nothing at all. Oh also does not change gears when I'm driving. Can you help me out or give me a hand? TIA
Saludos sr. Oz my 03 silverado must have a big battery drain . I used a multimeter to find which fuse has the big drain ,I found the 10amp for the tbc battery fuse was drawing 1.06 at first then it would go down to 0,44 BUT when i pulled the 10 amp tbc fuse it would immediately drop to 0.02 so my problem now is is it the tbc or bcm or they are one and the same? im not a full fledged mechanic like you , im a biginner with limited experience hopping for some helpful tips thank you and hoping you and yours happy holidays....
I’ve legit went threw every fuse but my shit be tweaking it be showing 7.00 then drops down to 2.50 then just keeps switching constantly but once I pulled out the fuse from the engine bay the controls the inside fuse box it dropped but I sat there and pulled every fuse from the inside and I don’t ever get a big drop it’s at 0.60-0.80 can’t get it to drop lower and stay their
I got a 2010 GMC Texas edition the oem radio drained my battery I wonder if it would be the BCM or the radio itself. Truck will be off no key in the ignition but the cd player will try to load disc and just keep humming/buzzing
Thanks for posting the video. This may be a stupid question, but do I need to jump my Tahoe/charge the battery, before I do my initial parasitic draw test? My battery has been dead since last night. Should I charge it first?
@@OzMechanics Yes, I tried monitoring current on the batt + terminal while pulling one fuse at a time. I had a pretty constant 0.19 A draw no matter which fuse I pulled. I even tried pulling the smaller relays one at a time. That doesn't leave me many options.
Do you have a link for those battery clip to multimeter adapters? What if my cheap harbor freight multimeter only has 5A, not 10A. Can I still use it to do this testing? Could you do a video on rain proofing a car/van? I have a car and van that both have water leaking in and I'm wondering if there's a cheap tape I can use Around/over the seals, and in the gaps and around the doors before I order new seals/rubber replacements I'm not a mechanic, thank you for what you do and explaining it very simple and easy to understand
I've been trying to find a similar problem to mine on a video after my tests didn't conclude well and I think this may be it bro. I'll keep you posted keep that cashapp on standby 🤙
All this electronics, a Microprocessor and all of the integrated circuits just to open and close the door and control the windows. Another term for delicate electronic component = CHEAP CRAP !
And another reason why all these new vehicles are being stored and not sold. It's a joke they have sensors for sensors and even if your gas cap isn't tight it'll make the check engine light come on,or low Asher fluid on some cars will do it. It's a joke,I remember cars when it was so easy. I hate getting anything over a 2004 or so because all the extra b.s.
**Want to own the tools I use ?? Click on the amazon link below to get my top 5 Tools I use**
Automotive Test Light- amzn.to/3z1Pdxa
Flexible Backprobe- amzn.to/3Pyr3zO
Multimeter- amzn.to/3PbuT23
OBD Scan Tool- amzn.to/3zaNWnq
Wire Piercing Probe- amzn.to/3OecWhT
Disconnect the onstar under the drivers seat. Worked for me after checking everything else.
Great basic rundown of the procedure, Oz!
That being said.... I find the best way to check individual circuits draw is after confirming an excess draw on the whole system, reconnect the battery, make sure doors, good switches etc are latched and make sure the CANbus has no more activity, then check voltage drop across the individual fuses, which you then convert the voltage drop to a current value using charts specifically for the type of fuse (or just use an Amp Hound).
The problem with pulling fuses on a lot of modern day vehicles is that removing a fuse can cause other systems on the CAN network to activate, and create current draw, leading you down the garden path!
Another method I have found works well if the current draw is large enough is to use an InfraRed camera and scan the fuses for heat (current flow on a circuit produces heat) and identify the individual circuit that way. The IR camera can then be used to monitor components on that particular fuses circuit to check if they are hot or not.
Have a great New Year 🤘
Awesome. I think I brought up the test procedure by voltage drop on the fuse. But I found some vehicles have some fuses that don’t have access to the metal prongs on the fuses. As of the IR camera I might want to whip my flir out and give it a shot again.
Great stuff, link for fuse charts here
www.powerprobe.com/fuse-voltage-drop-charts
@@OzMechanics So keep the key on when you're doing a voltage drop test across the top of the blades of the fuses, the Ignition will keep the system hot and you can check every fuse as u go.
Nice I was thinking the same thing about pulling fuses and possibly waking up a monitor or something. I've done this parasitic draw test and I get .00 why
@@russellsnyder4221 the sensitivity of your meter can play a part. A cheaper meter can have a slower response time or just not at all.
Had I watched for a few more minutes I would have seen that. I spent two hours this morning doing the same on my 09 Silverado. You may have cured mine. The switch for my RF window located on the LF door has been "testy" for a few months. But that would be only with the key on. Back at it tomorrow. Thanks..Arnie
If you feel like this video helped out, feel free to support the channel by donating. Just one click away on the link below, to help support the channel :)
www.paypal.me/ozmechanics
Best video covering this problem I found.
biggunsnu I have newer videos showing other methods to use to check battery drains
I vote for the Amp hound, it's super convenient for finding drains.
But this video shows you can do it with basic equipment. 👍
Should have asked Santa for one this yr
Thanks bro. This the same problem I’m
Have & I been have issues with the switch.
Perfect I needed this to keep myself from hours of hard work. Thanks so much for the great intel you gave I’m saving time and money. Just so having the exact same issue. Need more like you around God Bless
good call ,good diagnoses
Thanks old biker. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for stopping by
Great diagnostic job! You said this was the first time you've come across a window switch causing the draw... what component do you usually find causing it? Or is there no one component that usually fails?
Thanks for the dignostic video. have similar problem in parcidic voltage drop on my 1998 chev. Will do similar tests to see if I can Isolate problem. I beleive previous owner replaced driver side door..
Great explanation! I just found the battery 30A fuse was the gremlin causing the drain but now I gotta find what connection to the battery is causing it any idea where to begin?. Truck already has cheap aftermarket stereo I think it was installed wrong from previous owner stereo won’t turn off when key is out I have to manually turn it off. truck is a 1991 k1500
Can't wait to go through this with my truck thanks
I’ve learned a lot from your videos. Thanks man
Very helpful. Got same.problem up in Michigan on 1991 silverado
Sweet! Lovin the new intro!
Great video, Oz. Would something like this cause the alarm to go off randomly?
This is a great video. Very informative and helpful. Thank you. 😊
That is 1.61 Amps, not 1.61 Milliamps. Your meter is set to the 10A range.
If you see in the 3:30 mark I put .050 is 50 milliamps. I know the conversation is just I made a mistake. On that shot. Did you watch the rest to see that ?
@@OzMechanics yup the rest was pretty good, just the overlay at that part was off.
@@slovepab6 yea, I just looked at it. I was trying to think what I was thinking when I put that. And all that made sense was when I was reading it out 1.61 milliamps so coming out saying, (one point sixty-one milliamps)
what if pulling the fuses causes no change?
Thank you Oz. Good job. Have a blessed and safe New Year to you and your family.
SUBSTANTIAL Oz Mechanics
Tutorial great thank you very much helpful video .God bless you and all your family around you
Oz Mechanics
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Where did you get the wiring diagram/ schematic... excellent video...
On a dual battery system, would I leave the other battery alone or take the cables off?
Set up my multimeter. 12.4 draw? Surely nothing is going to draw that much power does that mean I have an unintentional ground somewhere? I pulled all the fuses in engine bay and in cab no change at all. Disconnected the alternator as well as removed the power wire running to it because I was told on these trucks it likes to burn up.
Nice find with a cheap tool and your ear happy new year
Good video, Oz! I love the intro, too!
The intro was fast, not boring, and the subscribe and Bell thing was perfect; I appreciate that intro instead of hearing one of my other favorite RUclipsrs telling me to"ring that Bell" every video. Love you Scotty but I'm tired of hearing ring that Bell
Bro that is awesome! I wanna learn more!
Awesome new intro oz
Good job Oz
OZ, I have a 08 Sierra 5.3L that keeps draining my battery also but I did what you did on this video, my meter shows 0.01 so it way below 0.05 what you were saying? Any other advise for me?
you must like doing in series rather than connecting amp clamp and measuring across fuses, reason it seems you do it this way more than the other way
Love that new theme song👍🏼👍🏼
anyone saw the troll fly on the multimeter ?
Men give me any car when it comes to electric ⚡️ battery drains no worries. Love the Americans cars so easy to work on them
I'm having a situation where I started with a constant 2.8 amp draw after determining that pulling the radio fuse dropped the draw from 2.8 to 700 milliamp. After further testing I was able to eliminate another 400 milliamps by pulling the cluster gauge fuse. Now I am left with a 300 amp draw that I cannot seem to isolate. I'm also having intermittent issues with left rear door ajar, and dome lights staying on unless manually overridden. Any input would be greatly appreciated. 2003 chevy avalanche z71 4x4 5.3l
Was up oz awesome video bro. However, I have a 08 silverado lt 1500 5.3 extended cab. I changed the tcm, cut each wire 1 by 1 underneath it, replaced spark plugs, disconnected the computer along with battery. Reconnected comp and batterry. But my instrument cluster is not working, all gauges work, just not my mileage and the readings from dic nothing at all. Oh also does not change gears when I'm driving. Can you help me out or give me a hand? TIA
thank
How would you check for a parasite draw on a diesel which has 2 battery's
Saludos sr. Oz my 03 silverado must have a big battery drain . I used a multimeter to find which fuse has the big drain ,I found the 10amp for the tbc battery fuse was drawing 1.06 at first then it would go down to 0,44 BUT when i pulled the 10 amp tbc fuse it would immediately drop to 0.02 so my problem now is is it the tbc or bcm or they are one and the same? im not a full fledged mechanic like you , im a biginner with limited experience hopping for some helpful tips thank you and hoping you and yours happy holidays....
I have the same problem, what did you figure out?
Great work bro genius
Would I need to do this on my 2007 Silverado it doesn't have power windows seats or anything like that.
Super work 👍
I’ve legit went threw every fuse but my shit be tweaking it be showing 7.00 then drops down to 2.50 then just keeps switching constantly but once I pulled out the fuse from the engine bay the controls the inside fuse box it dropped but I sat there and pulled every fuse from the inside and I don’t ever get a big drop it’s at 0.60-0.80 can’t get it to drop lower and stay their
Nice intro Oz
I got a 2010 GMC Texas edition the oem radio drained my battery I wonder if it would be the BCM or the radio itself. Truck will be off no key in the ignition but the cd player will try to load disc and just keep humming/buzzing
i thought everyone had quit pulling fuses. thought everyone measures voltage across each fuse and leaves battery connected.
lesal I have a video that test different ways on finding a parasitic draw. Need to check it out
Thanks for posting the video. This may be a stupid question, but do I need to jump my Tahoe/charge the battery, before I do my initial parasitic draw test? My battery has been dead since last night. Should I charge it first?
Thanks good video
Where do you find your working diagrams I never can find what I'm looking for no matter what vehicle
Amigo mi camioneta hace lo mismo .. siempre eh batallado con eso
Good job
Great well done
I appreciate the video
Thanks oz
Mine has a constant quarter amp draw on the battery, about 3 watts. Kills my Optima battery in just over a week.
Have you tried this approach to see what’s wrong ?
L
@@OzMechanics Yes, I tried monitoring current on the batt + terminal while pulling one fuse at a time. I had a pretty constant 0.19 A draw no matter which fuse I pulled. I even tried pulling the smaller relays one at a time.
That doesn't leave me many options.
Great vid
Thank you !!!!!!!
Great video
Do you have a link for those battery clip to multimeter adapters?
What if my cheap harbor freight multimeter only has 5A, not 10A.
Can I still use it to do this testing?
Could you do a video on rain proofing a car/van?
I have a car and van that both have water leaking in and I'm wondering if there's a cheap tape I can use Around/over the seals, and in the gaps and around the doors before I order new seals/rubber replacements
I'm not a mechanic, thank you for what you do and explaining it very simple and easy to understand
I bought the clips from my snap on vendor. I would recommend getting a 10amp meter
Good helpful video may I ask where did you get your wiring diagram from???? Like what website do you use?
I use prodemand
Another gm product. Nice find pal.
Did the new door module fix the draw problem?
Yes sr. That’s why the video was made
Great video but did you disable the door jamb switch before testing?
I locked the door jamb to trick the vehicle to think that the door is closed
Had my 2009 kill 5 battery's so far and 6th just went dead its 2 months old
I got a 2000 with a battery draw too. Do you think you can fix it? Name your price
How can I get the diagram for 05 envoy?
All data offers a diy service for your vehicle. I believe it’s $20. Not too bad
Awesome video!! Thanks sooooooo!!!!!!!! :)
Awesome
Nice!
Where are you locate?I need your services.
Did you "trip" the door latches?
When I do parasitic draw test I latch the doors I have to move in and out
do u have to program the new module to the vehicle?
texas tough yes I did.
My draw 2 mv but my battery is dead in 5 days or so wondering why 09 Silverado
Is it .200 or .020 or .002 ?
Where you from I need your services
Bruh. If this solves my tahoe problem ima send you 50 bucks
Saaaaweeeeeeetttttt
I have more videos showing more test on battery drain
I've been trying to find a similar problem to mine on a video after my tests didn't conclude well and I think this may be it bro. I'll keep you posted keep that cashapp on standby 🤙
@@OzMechanics So it isn't the driver window control but it may be LBEC 2, ima check into that later and let you know
When I do this I have nothing not even 5 m amps
Is it .000 ?
All this electronics, a Microprocessor and all of the integrated circuits just to open and close the door and control the windows. Another term for delicate electronic component = CHEAP CRAP !
And another reason why all these new vehicles are being stored and not sold.
It's a joke they have sensors for sensors and even if your gas cap isn't tight it'll make the check engine light come on,or low Asher fluid on some cars will do it.
It's a joke,I remember cars when it was so easy.
I hate getting anything over a 2004 or so because all the extra b.s.
This is what happens when you leave the window down when it's raining! It gets wet and corrodes.
I guess there is no cleaning it
Hmmmm part 2 ???
Boom 1st
Wooooohooooo
GM builds the worse vehicles on planet earth
👍👍