I've watched you guys for 2 years now. Specifically when the Gen 1 videos started coming out. I watched for a year and a half or so and finally pulled the plug on a cheap one in January. I have spent hours with your videos on my phone walking me through repairs on the truck. I have never worked on a vehicle before and you have really helped. The CV axle is coming up. Will be redoing doing suspension at the same time. You guys are awesome.
That’s awesome man. Thank you. This is the highest praise we can ever get. We started this channel to help people and enable more guys to hit the trails. Nothing more rewarding than working on your truck and using it offroad. Hope to see you on the trail soon.
This reminded me of when we switched out our old CV axles on our Gen1 Raptor! It’s completely stock and it lasted well into 72,000 Miles!! I still remember how they blew and it was when we were on the freeway! Awesome video like always!!
Came back to this video to order the boots and clamps. Since I have mine that need rebuilding, your video was the first thing I remembered about. Huge thank you.
Doing this right now. Torn boots on the passenger side. Half shafts came out as well. It's great to see what I'm up for and to know that hopefully it won't be in need of a bunch more parts. Great tutorial!
I have not. Shock rebuilding while easy does require some specialized tools AND we could not cover everything required for all the common scenarios. You really want someone experienced doing it and that’s why we have not done a video on it.
Another great video. For rubber fittings, boots, and hoses, would giving them a soak in silicone help? From my windshield wiper understanding silicon is better than rubber, but rubber will benefit from silicone treatment.
We’re on the same maintenance schedule! I just did this today! For a while it was every trail ride I did, now that I got rid of the IWE deletes I went 3 years on my last set. I prefer to remove the LCA bolt it’s easier on the brake lines and you can just sweep the spindle up. 🤙
Just rebuilt my Gen1 axles was much easier after doing Toyota axles for the last 5 years. Besides my diff seal splitting and removing itself with the axle, it was smooth. Good video!
I had an axle get siezed in the hub (on a ram) and i had to take it to a shop who said they broke several air hammer chiseles and had to buy a new massive sledgehammer to get it out. I coat all of the splines in anti sieze too now and its been a breeze
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad by hub I meant wheel bearing so basically you couldn't remove the cv or the wheel bearing unless you got a new spindle and replaced everything but luckily they got it out
I switched from Eibach to Geiser springs on my Gen1 due to blowing threw cv boots due to the Eibachs raising the truck higher than the Geisers causing more wear on the boots. I also have the IWE deletes so the axles are allways spinning. I went through 2 axles both sides in a year and since going to Geisers I have gone over two years with no CV axles boots tearing.
Broke the whole thing I heard some noise coming from it when in 4wd but was running in 2wd most the day broke it pulling out a friend from the camp ground last day of the trip
Just got the shocks rebuilt on my Gen1, went mid perch and have the IWE delete rings coming in. Hopefully not having the IWE system doesn’t eat up my CV shafts.
@. appreciate the reply. That’s what I figured I went to ford and bought new CV axels just to be safe, might do the boot swap like you did on the new ones before I install them like you did.
Once the shaft is partially out, it can completely slide out if you have nothing obstructing it. I had to disconnect the bottom of my shock to get mine out. With the shock in, the CV kept hitting the coil spring and would not come out. Once I disconnected the bottom of the shock I was axle to get enough movement from the shock to get it out. If your in stock shocks, the top of the shock don’t move as freely and you may need to take the whole shock out
@KeepItDirtyOffRoad thanks for the reply. The axle is out and I have redone the boots but it seems as it wont go all the way back in. I have pictures but can't post here. I just posted it on the raptor forum as well. The passenger side that I am doing isn't in as far as the untouched passenger side.
We had to use a block of wood and a mallet to get ours in correctly. And it’s tough because there is no space to get a proper swing in. So it took quite a bit more hits.
Sorry man. Just seeing you reply. I’m hoping you got it figured out, but there should be no gap. If it’s not going in, it could be the locking pin is damaged
So my boot just tore. Haven’t been in dirt since. Would you say it’s easy to swap the boot or whole axle? Truck has 125k. Never been offroaded until I got it a few months ago. And mine has been mostly dirt roads haha
So, to swap the boot, the whole axle has to come out and be rebuilt. It’s easier and cheaper to just swap the axle. Axle is $220-320 depending on your truck. And even if you do the rebuild yourself with grease and clamps your at close to $200. But also, what’s your front suspension setup that the boot ripped? A mainly daily truck should not be ripping boots so quick. I get that you’re mainly doing dirt now but that sounds like an awful short time for the boot to last.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad it’s been a Austin Texas truck it’s whole life. I’m in SoCal, corona area. I put it to mid perch 2 months ago. It wasn’t torn before that. With the age I’m assuming the mid perch angle tore it. I’m stock suspension.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad sounds like I should just replace that axle for now and probably buy another for the other side. Are those interchangeable on both sides? I saw the pic showed Front, Right.
CVs are all bare metal and the exterior surface rust is normal and should not be too bad. But yes if the salt gets into that inner joint, it could be a nighmare. Just try and keep that area clean. When you go to wash the truck, give that area some extra sprays to clear out any debris and use anti seize
Not really needed here. And the process is so easy that you can do the whole swap on 1 axle in less than an hour. Freezing the balls would add extra unnecessary time.
If your stock that’s fine and makes more sense. But that don’t work with mid travel or long travel trucks. A set or RCV axles could cost as high as $3000. Just extended shafts are $1500
I've watched you guys for 2 years now. Specifically when the Gen 1 videos started coming out. I watched for a year and a half or so and finally pulled the plug on a cheap one in January. I have spent hours with your videos on my phone walking me through repairs on the truck. I have never worked on a vehicle before and you have really helped. The CV axle is coming up. Will be redoing doing suspension at the same time. You guys are awesome.
That’s awesome man. Thank you. This is the highest praise we can ever get.
We started this channel to help people and enable more guys to hit the trails. Nothing more rewarding than working on your truck and using it offroad. Hope to see you on the trail soon.
Love this stuff. The fact Kevin at HM is involved is so cool! Can't beat that customer service. Whata nice guy.
Agreed. He’s awesome and more than happy to teach and help others.
This reminded me of when we switched out our old CV axles on our Gen1 Raptor! It’s completely stock and it lasted well into 72,000 Miles!! I still remember how they blew and it was when we were on the freeway! Awesome video like always!!
Thanks man. You got some good life out of them for sure.
Came back to this video to order the boots and clamps. Since I have mine that need rebuilding, your video was the first thing I remembered about. Huge thank you.
Glad we could help man
Doing this right now. Torn boots on the passenger side. Half shafts came out as well. It's great to see what I'm up for and to know that hopefully it won't be in need of a bunch more parts. Great tutorial!
Great tutorial....thanks! Have you ever done a video on shock rebuilding? Just a thought...
I have not. Shock rebuilding while easy does require some specialized tools AND we could not cover everything required for all the common scenarios. You really want someone experienced doing it and that’s why we have not done a video on it.
Another great video. For rubber fittings, boots, and hoses, would giving them a soak in silicone help? From my windshield wiper understanding silicon is better than rubber, but rubber will benefit from silicone treatment.
Not sure on that one. CVs get pretty hot under load so the rubber is designed to take a lot of heat. Not sure is silicone would help or hurt there.
We’re on the same maintenance schedule! I just did this today! For a while it was every trail ride I did, now that I got rid of the IWE deletes I went 3 years on my last set. I prefer to remove the LCA bolt it’s easier on the brake lines and you can just sweep the spindle up. 🤙
Just rebuilt my Gen1 axles was much easier after doing Toyota axles for the last 5 years. Besides my diff seal splitting and removing itself with the axle, it was smooth. Good video!
Thanks. I did not realize how easy it was. Glad I know now so I can rebuild mine going forward
Gen 1s have big balls, always knew it😎😎
🤣🤣
I literally just did this on my gen 2 yesterday
Rebuild or swap?
what boots you use?
I also would like to know what boots
I had an axle get siezed in the hub (on a ram) and i had to take it to a shop who said they broke several air hammer chiseles and had to buy a new massive sledgehammer to get it out. I coat all of the splines in anti sieze too now and its been a breeze
Wow man. That’s wild. Could not imagine having to do that. Would be easier to just buy a new CV and new axle.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad by hub I meant wheel bearing so basically you couldn't remove the cv or the wheel bearing unless you got a new spindle and replaced everything but luckily they got it out
Any advice on if your locking ring is broken/bent like yours was?
Ford don’t sell parts. So your options are buy new ones OR find a raptor shop that has old axles laying around you can scavenge.
I switched from Eibach to Geiser springs on my Gen1 due to blowing threw cv boots due to the Eibachs raising the truck higher than the Geisers causing more wear on the boots. I also have the IWE deletes so the axles are allways spinning. I went through 2 axles both sides in a year and since going to Geisers I have gone over two years with no CV axles boots tearing.
Just broke a cv axel at pismo last month on my mid travel raptor
Did you break the CV or just tear the boot?
Broke the whole thing I heard some noise coming from it when in 4wd but was running in 2wd most the day broke it pulling out a friend from the camp ground last day of the trip
That sucks man. Whats the plan? Upgrade to RCvs or another extended set?
Just got the shocks rebuilt on my Gen1, went mid perch and have the IWE delete rings coming in. Hopefully not having the IWE system doesn’t eat up my CV shafts.
It won’t eat up the shafts, but it will reduce the life of the CV boots and will require more frequent diffusion fluid changes.
@. appreciate the reply. That’s what I figured I went to ford and bought new CV axels just to be safe, might do the boot swap like you did on the new ones before I install them like you did.
Well my half shaft is stuck halfway out. I have tried everything to get it back in or out and it isnt moving. Any ideas?
Once the shaft is partially out, it can completely slide out if you have nothing obstructing it. I had to disconnect the bottom of my shock to get mine out. With the shock in, the CV kept hitting the coil spring and would not come out. Once I disconnected the bottom of the shock I was axle to get enough movement from the shock to get it out. If your in stock shocks, the top of the shock don’t move as freely and you may need to take the whole shock out
@KeepItDirtyOffRoad thanks for the reply. The axle is out and I have redone the boots but it seems as it wont go all the way back in. I have pictures but can't post here. I just posted it on the raptor forum as well. The passenger side that I am doing isn't in as far as the untouched passenger side.
We had to use a block of wood and a mallet to get ours in correctly. And it’s tough because there is no space to get a proper swing in. So it took quite a bit more hits.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad man i have beat the shiz out of it. Can you confirm that there is no gap with the deep boot?
Sorry man. Just seeing you reply. I’m hoping you got it figured out, but there should be no gap. If it’s not going in, it could be the locking pin is damaged
So that boot number is that universal for left side and right side...anyone know?
Do you men inner and outer side?
If so, yes but only on the gen1. Gen2 may need a different boot for the inner boot
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad yes inner and outer boot, on gen 2
So my boot just tore. Haven’t been in dirt since. Would you say it’s easy to swap the boot or whole axle? Truck has 125k. Never been offroaded until I got it a few months ago. And mine has been mostly dirt roads haha
So, to swap the boot, the whole axle has to come out and be rebuilt. It’s easier and cheaper to just swap the axle. Axle is $220-320 depending on your truck. And even if you do the rebuild yourself with grease and clamps your at close to $200.
But also, what’s your front suspension setup that the boot ripped? A mainly daily truck should not be ripping boots so quick. I get that you’re mainly doing dirt now but that sounds like an awful short time for the boot to last.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad it’s been a Austin Texas truck it’s whole life. I’m in SoCal, corona area. I put it to mid perch 2 months ago. It wasn’t torn before that. With the age I’m assuming the mid perch angle tore it. I’m stock suspension.
@xschm1dx ah ok. Yeah that makes sense. Old boots for sure then.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad sounds like I should just replace that axle for now and probably buy another for the other side. Are those interchangeable on both sides? I saw the pic showed Front, Right.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad also wondering if it’s worth it to upgrade the boots while it’s brand new before install haha
Anyone have a link for similar boots on a 2015+ f150??
Check SDHQs website. They have several listed based on the trucks model year. The Gen2 boots are much cheaper
Watching you use a deadblow hammer gave me anxiety 😂
🤣🤣 we did eventually correct and use the right hammer.
I have a midwest truck, im now getting worried about how bad this is going to be with rust lol
CVs are all bare metal and the exterior surface rust is normal and should not be too bad. But yes if the salt gets into that inner joint, it could be a nighmare. Just try and keep that area clean. When you go to wash the truck, give that area some extra sprays to clear out any debris and use anti seize
just a little hint....put the ballz in the freezer for a couple hours before re-assembly
Not really needed here. And the process is so easy that you can do the whole swap on 1 axle in less than an hour. Freezing the balls would add extra unnecessary time.
I just buy new ones 😂
If your stock that’s fine and makes more sense. But that don’t work with mid travel or long travel trucks. A set or RCV axles could cost as high as $3000. Just extended shafts are $1500
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad dam 3k is way to much I just like mine stock 😂 since I can’t find a place to ride off road without cops giving tickets
Where you based that it’s that strict?