Could water get into the insulation through the door latch mechanism hole or any holes for rubber grommets and such in there? How do you know the back of those pockets where you tucked the insulation is sealed?
I cut the insulation back clear of the door lock and corresponding drain hole on the latch side. I made sure the number plate screws were sealed on the side. The internal was sprayed with oil based inhibitor. Yellow stuff on video. Good point though. To be doubly sure you can enclose your insulation in plastic bags like pillow cases. Hope that helps. Cheers
Hi Greg I can't make out what's going on with the road trip around Europe.. Have you started it yet & if so where are you & are you vlogging it yet ????
This is a good point, it's very hard to make a van water tight. The same goes for the walls - the trim on the outside of most vans is literally pushed on through honest to goodness holes in the metal. That's why there are drain holes in the bottom of the van. People who spray foam everywhere inside their vans may be in for a rude shock if they cover those lower drain holes, as in they get their own indoors swimming pool. But this is why using insulating material that is in itself hydrophobic and doesn't soak up moisture is probably very smart. Anything organic like denim or such I'd stay far, far away from for van insulation, personally. Thinsulate might work, or if you have the funds and want to go high tech, aerogel mats. Those are a bit dusty to work with but the R value is off the scales.
You can easily put a small blob off sealant on the inside of each plastic fixing to make them watertight before insulating. The Earthwool I used is water repellant and won't act like a sponge. If you are still concerned then bag your insulation in plastic like pillows before inserting it into the voids. Most people don't realise that water enters their doors via the window rubbers when winding the windows up and down. 😳
Greg Virgoe Hi Greg! What’s the name of the oil based inhibitor you used on the inside of the rear doors? Would you also recommend using this on all surfaces in contact with the insulation? Thanks for this amazing series of videos!
I didn’t like the look of those plastic screw caps so I tried this inside the van and unless you are looking for them they just disappear so quite happy 😃
Personally I think that i can learn to do this jobs well with a lot of practice and commitment. But to get to this degree of precision is not enough !! To work this way you need to have a special gift in DIY !! A million compliments !! Make things look easy, what's not easy!
Like everything in life the more you have a go the better you will get, but first, you have to start. Hopefully i can give you a bit more confidence that you can actually do these things and very well too
Hats off to you again Greg!! Another excellent video where you are showing us the how to details. I never knew the simple upholstery tricks you showed us. Those little details gives us the confidence and know how so that we can do our own. We really appreciate your attention to showing us the details. We all realize it takes you longer to do that. Thanks so much!!
Thanks Greg for showing the detailed cuts around the corners of the boards. Most people simply say they covered with the carpet. Those little details help a great deal! Beautiful work as usual.
if you have never applied this stuff before those bit are what you need to know so it makes sense to show how to do it. thanks for the comment and for appreciating the details
This is better than watching SKY TV any-day... nice job Greg as always. Lovely simple tip on using the existing screw holes... never thought of that. Also loved the painting of the screw heads... genius. You must have been one hell of Mechanical Services Engineer..
Fantastic build Greg a true craftsman. I'm a ex builder from Berkshire,had an accident two years ago left me spinal problems end result 3 level fusion Your videos have kept me going as I've always wanted to do my own self build. Fingers crossed hoping maybe next year. Your workmanship Is outstanding a true professional. Well done.
Hi Rob, sorry to hear about your back, I too suffer from an old bodybuilding accident during a max deadlift competition. I now have fortnightly chiro adjustments and regular massages, so I can empathise with your condition. Hope you get to fulfil those dreams and best wishes with your future build, keep me posted, cheers
As I've said before, this is hands down the best van build I've seen on youtube (I've seen a lot) the attention to detail is unbelievable right down to the colour matching screw heads brilliant.
Gonna build a couple of these but use cladding instead . Thinking Great idea with spraying the self tapping screws to tie in with the couloirs scene . Another great job done there Greg. Thank you , learning so much from your great videos ✌🏻
Have to say Greg, your videos and van build quality are some of the best on here! I'm late to the van build party, but have finally started the dream I've had for years with a Transit Custom high top. I'm confident of completing the entire build just on your content alone! Great work my man!👏 Thank you!
To locate the screw holes for fixing the cards I carpeted the face of the panels like you did then drilled through from behind through a piece of masking tape stuck to the finished face before glueing the carpet to the rear of the cards. This allowed the holes to be easily located through the masking tape from the front which was then peeled off before tightening the screws. This worked very well as I did not have a second door card to use as a template. Liked the idea of painting the screw heads prior to fixing. Great work.
Try and think through the whole job, doesn't always go to plan, but that's how you learn right :D Hopefully, my videos will make it easier for everyone else.
Perfect timing Greg, I'm just doing the same job, enclosing the aperture where Optare's my folding side doors were. Thanks as always, I loved using the old panel to find the screw holes and painting the self-tappers to match the trim was inspired !
@@GregVirgoe it's just a pipe dream at the moment, but I've been researching van builds for the best part of a year. By far, this is the best build series. Thanks for taking the time.
nice one greg, i have to say though, i have trim-fixed 2mm closed cell foam on all my visible metal, and it really has eliminated all thermal bridges. that metal will suck all the heat out. the difference is remarkable.
It is enough to change the surface temperature by a few degrees. Did you still have to cut it short fo the door rubbers though? Any issues with making it look neat and tidy?
Another great video, I like how you show how to cut the carpet on round edges! I personally would have gone with screw cups and caps but each to their own.
Greatly appreciate your videos!!! As I've mentioned numerous times and so have others, your attention to details is phenomenal ( it's the Virgo lol). I learned how to do carpet on the doors, those corners!!!!!!😲❤️❤️❤️❤️ . You have set the standard, my good man, in Van conversions. Amazing to watch what you are doing next. I found myself looking for the screw heads on your door panels. Blessings sent for safe travels once the build is completed.
I have not got any door cards on any of the doors in the back of my van so I will be making a template but I will be using door card plastic plugs which no one will see when I get around to making them I will do my best to make a video , thanks for sharing,I know this video is a while back but I’m sure it will help loads of people. Hope your still enjoying your EUROPE trip
Excellent vid (again) Greg 👍 I got my roof rack and ladder fitted today 😀 Roof liner next I will be using your vid for that too Good sailing teaser Best Regards Dave, Jo and Louie 👍😀🐾
Hi Dave, If you are using similar vinyl covered ply I have a top tip for you. wrap sellotape over the edge of the board before inserting into the PVC trim. It will slip in the trim easier and prevents the vinyl from peeling back. I'm looking forward to editing the Yacht video, I have a fantastic idea for follow up :D
I just want to add my kudos for this outstanding video series. I originally found your series in a search for van insulation and your series is by far the most complete detailed and frankly makes the most sense. Although I am working on a GMC Safari van all of the information in these videos applies. Thank you for posting this video series!
Yet again a great detailed video Greg. Blimey I've got a lot of work to do on mine but feel more confident knowing I can reference back to your vids when needed.
@@GregVirgoe only just ripping out all the old flooring and sika flexing all the joints so a long long way to go but I will get there eventually. Will look forward to your next vid. Cheers Greg Dave
Sat watching while I was making up bus bars for the solar going on my new shed roof. Like most things I've turned my hand to recently I find myself asking would this pass the Virgoe test.
A pro class result as usual, nicely done. Insulating the rear doors (and of course finishing them off nicely) is something I've seen people neglect, which makes no sense, that will suck heat out of the vehicle like nobody's business if it's not insulated. In fact, I would have preferred a layer of some kind of insulation under the entire top door panel - as in, a sheet that covered the whole door, and not just stuffed in the door itself - but I'm not sure if that would fit and still let the doors close, perhaps not.
You can make the door cards thicker, however, they do have to be sized to fit inside the door rubbers as the rubber trim needs to seal against the metal of the door to be water proof.
I guess that's something I'll have to "trial and error" my way through when I actually get a van and get started. But the insulation inside the cavities still means that you have direct metal contact between the outside and inside of the door, so the metal will be icy cold regardless. So it's not quite as bad as not insulating the door at all, but the door card is in some respects the insulation you have between the inside and the metal, in my opinion, and 5 mils of plywood and a nice carpet isn't super insulating. But perhaps insulating the doors is just not physically doable to the standard one needs to camp in arctic temperatures. I've seen people construct 5-10 cm thick insulating mats/pads that are sized to cover the entire rear end of the vehicle and cover both doors in their entirety in icy weather in order to get the whole rear-end of the van properly insulated. Maybe there's no way around that. But of course I'm talking about stuff like -20 degrees C now.
Croft, you're never going to be able to insulate the door frames as the metal needs to seal against the rubber. We do not plan to be using ours in sub zero temps as like the birds we are heading south for winter 😎 vans are not built the same way as motor homes and there is always going to be these weak points.
Yep, there are big benefits from constructing the entire shell of the vehicle from scratch, the way they do with a class B+ that starts out life as a cab with a frame on it. All the surfaces including the doors can be made sealed and full of insulation. I guess one just has to do the best one can, and then make sure the heater in the van is powerful enough to overcome the heat losses from the weak points in the insulation. After all, we ride around in normal cars with near-zero insulation and they're still nice and warm and toasty from the cabin heater built in to the vehicle, even in very cold temps. :)
One thing I've also noticed is it makes the doors so much quieter too and they now close with that soft thud of an expensive limo and not like a rattly old van lol
Hi, you make it look so easy and nice to see that you're maintaining your building standards right through this impressive project. It would be fun to know how many rolls of masking tape you end up using for the whole project! Hee Hee Thanks.
Vapor barrier for these rear doors seem to be a problem, at least in my mind. There are a lot of small holes everywhere around the doors, around the locks, etc., where no vapor retarted/stopper is applied and thus air can travel inside the cavities where the insulation is to condensate. What is your opinion on practical experience with whether this is a problem or something one can live with?
Looking good bud but if you get a craft knife and cut a slit in were you want the screws.then screw in dry wall counter sunk screw then flip the carpet back over mabe use a little glue on a kids paint brush on the little bit off carpet to hold it down... you won't see any screws and you do the reverse if you need to take them off ..if any of this text makes sense lol keep up the good work ✌
There are a lot of pre-moulded parts on production vans which I can't replicate but I like to think that the underlying insulation and electrical services are installed to a much higher standard than what I have seen on production campers.
I think it's nice to see the whole process in more detail, rather than just showing the finished article and then just talking about what you (or your mate) did off camera. :D I prefer to watch a video when you see things being made.
Thanks Greg. It's just finding the right year that doesn't look old fashioned and caravans are straight so lots of adjustment to scribe furniture to curved van
@@GregVirgoe very good point. I've just got to figure out what tools ect to buy what do you think are the most essential tools to buy I'm starting from scratch the only tool I have is a cordless drill Haha. Thank you for your replies
That’s the most useful tool so a good start. I would say jigsaw and circular saw. For cutting curved and straight lines. If you plan to use push in trim you will need a router.
@@GregVirgoe thank you Greg I might also some more pointers in the coming months if you dont mind. I feel I have a million questions I'd like to ask you but I'll try not too. Thank you. I'm going to use your videos as a guide. Why are you not my neighbour! Haha
Hey Greg ✋ another fantastic video. Bit of a boring question, obviously, you've done a lot of jigsaw work as part of your build, what do you find are the best blades for cutting the marine ply? Thanks
Liam Ballinger to get a straight cut you need a wide stiff blade not this thin flexible ones. For my Bosch saw they were T101B for normal up cuts and T101BR for down cuts on face of furniture board where you need a clean cut on the face. Trick is go slow, don’t force the jigsaw and let the blade do the work. 👍🏼😊
@@GregVirgoe thanks a lot for the advice 👊 I suppose you must be used to these types of questions by now. Your channel attracts people who, like you, really care about the miniscule details because they matter so much to the overall quality of this type of job. There now must be literally hundreds of well built (slightly over-engineered 😄) campers all over the world built by your RUclips disciples!
Hi Greg - Top Work as always! Quick question if you don’t mind? Above the Rear Doors (inside) there are cables running left to right. How did you carpet this area? Did you reroute the cables or Reflectix and carpet over them? Thanks again !
Great video. Just watched the first one. I was looking for tips for sound proofing a works van. Is ur insulation 4 warmth bc it's a camper, r 4 sound to? Thanks
Great videos thankyou. When you insulated the roof I noticed you didn't fill the box frames, do you regret this or was it enough to only do the flat parts. Many thanks Eric.
Hi Greg! I have a question why did you use a different wool for the doors? Would the earth wool work as well? The reason I ask is that I cant find the Diall wool...in Canada lol thanks another great vlog!
Hi Natalie, yes, Earthwool would be just fine for the doors, to be honest, I only needed a small amount and this was in a small roll and was just as good. Rather than me buying 8 large slabs of Earthwool that I wouldn't use. it was cheaper too :D
Hi Greg thanks for all your videos they really are terrific to watch and pick up tips for my own future build. At 14:29 you show your plug socket which is combined with two usb ports. I was wondering do you have to run your inverter to power those up or have you modified the plug some how to run the usb ports on 12v and the three pin on 240v? I'm keen for that high class finish but don't want to have to run the inverter just to charge our phones at night. Thanks in advance.
Hello Ben, These sockets are dual fed from my control panel from two switchable sources. Watch this video for full details ruclips.net/video/7qEL_kjaV8o/видео.html With charging your devices it's better to do that during the day when you may have excess solar energy rather than at night when everything is being pulled off your batteries. I have made some 12volt USB sockets with the same polished surrounds and may swap these out if I find we are not using the three pins at all.
Hi Greg, love the build thread. So much information in every video! I'm looking for some advice. Trying to cover up a window in my minibus conversion. And I don't know how to go about insulating and sealing it due to condensation build up that will occur. Any ideas?
If that was my van I think I would black out the window from inside then apply a layer of self adhesive closed cell foam insulation like Armaflex you would avoid any air gaps and the insulation has built in vapour barrier. To improve the insulation value you can add extra wool based insulation over that before cladding. Make sure to seal all edges so no air can get the the window. Hope that helps
@@GregVirgoe that's great Greg, thank you. I was afraid of the condensation building up and dampening the insulation then. But as you say, air tight should stop the condensation. Very helpful, thanks 😁
Honest answer, we threw away the last of the earthwool before we realised that we still need to do the rear doors. We didn't need much so rather than buy 8 slabs of earth wool I choose the Diall material which is just a credible. There are other options out there that are eco-friendly and give just as good thermal properties.
Hi Greg you are a hoofing bloke and I'd like to meet you in person one day. I'm just about to start my Crafter conversion, so that I can be a fulltime Vanlifer because paying rent and bills suck! Just one question (of many I have), can you open the back doors from inside? I know the bed is there and I was wondering if it hinders opening the doors? Thanks for you detailed videos
Hi Greg how many furniture boards did you need for the build. I'm building a citroen relay l3h2 2014. I'm not sure weather to buy a donor caravan or buy parts as you did ?
Hello James, I used 7 furniture boards in total. A second hand caravan is a very good way to go. The appliances and heater, shower toilet gas etc £4-5k so you can make a huge saving. I would do that next time.
Another great video - you are massively helping me out with my own Sprinter conversion! Are you planning to do anything in the cab area re insulation/vapour barrier? I couldn't help wondering about my uninsulated cab area whilst I was struggling to fill & seal every void in the domestic end. I'm not putting in the over cab storage or swivel seats in the front so was wondering if it might be best to board off the cab end from the back with an insulated wallboard? Would love to hear your thoughts on this and thanks again for your inspiration and excellent instruction!
The primary issue up front is probably the single glazed windows. When it gets cold they will leak heat like mad. I've seen people create a giant insulated blanket, multiple cm thick, that they cover them up with in arctic camping. Not pretty, but insulates very well. You could also build a compartment between the front and back, I guess, but I for one like vans with more open spaces, makes them far airier.
Hey Bob, We have quilted insulated window blinds that stick to the inside of the cab windows, we have installed a double lined blackout curtain between the cab and living area and most importantly I have one of the hot air ducts from our heater blowing into the cab to keep it warm and prevent condensation forming.
One BIG question, Why carpet? Are you not worried about the moisture it will absorb and then pass on to the unsealed plywood. I live in the Pacific Northwest in the US and I've been staying away from carpet for just this reason. Living in the UK where it's also known to be wet/damp it seems that once wet if not throughly dried out it will start to mold. The adhesive might slow it down a bit but once the moisture gets into the plywood ?????. I've been experimenting with vinyl but it's harder to get the nice looking cut seam edges you get with carpet.
Hiker Biker not at all. The van is extremely well insulated and has excellent ventilation and heating. We only get a small amount of condensation on the cab window if in extreme cold. But none of the internal van surface ever get damp. It’s never allowed to be cold in here. The boiler has frost setting of 10°C so it would never drop below that. I found with houses in the past you get those issues if you don’t hear and ventilate the space.
Greg, Where did you source the deep 90mm shower waste from? Struggling to find one with a 70mm or less flange. Can only find 86mm which is to big for recess. Did you use 1.5'' or 1.25''..... Chrome 1.25" Flush Grated Waste SLTD With Metal B/Nut 3.5"TL
Hello Tracey, here is the link where I got the waste from. www.sparespro.co.uk/chrome-plug-less-unslotted-brass-body-cp-1-1-2-x-2-7-16-flange-89mm-solid-tail-flush-grated-waste
Brilliant job Greg. Love your tutorials. I’m thinking when I eventually get a van to treat the whole of the van with wax oil before putting in the insulation. I think it may slow down rust. What’s your thoughts pls. Thanks
Hi Greg! Really enjoying your videos and your explanations really help in my van building process! I am wondering about the vapor barrier on the door parts where is metal (edges of the doors). (Best seen on min. 12:23) The insulation is pushed inside the doors and there is just a metal( door carcass) comparing with the "window places" where you put insulation, then bubble wrap covered with a door card. What about warm and humid air that hits the doors right on this metal carcass where there is no door card? Are there any concerns about condensation occurring on these parts of the door?
Bloody hell greg how many times did you scratch your hands doing the door infill insulation 😀 they can be real shape on the. Metal. Well done looking good mate
Hey to Greg, Dave here again. Very professional fit an finish on those doors. Few, if any better looks than carpeted panels on the inside of doors. Question: we're you tempted to cover the whole of the interior with the carpeted-look? As well ... feel free to take credit because I'm starting the remodel of a modest-size shed to give me the necessary shop for work on my own Sprinter-build. And I must say, the explanation and demo of the shop's dust collection vacuum was priceless. Big Cheers for Greg's inspiring spirit! Great stuff again, Lord Jesus bless.
Hi David, Thank you for such wonderful praise. The door and window frames are carpeted as are the door cards. The bedroom is felt but looks very similar to the van lining. We did the roof in a white vinyl just to bring some light into the build. I do like the look of the silver van lining and so easy to apply but you can have too much of a good thing. Best wishes with your own build
Greg just started following your channels and love every detail. I am a Brit out in Australia converting a Mitsubishi Express for myself and my wife to travel in, so want to say a huge thanks for each video! Can I ask, when you screw the door cards back on are you not puncturing the waterproof membrane you have created? Or do the screws provide adequate protection?
Can those rear doors open all the way like that? All the vans I've tried the doors don't go back that far? Is there a special hinge available for that?
This is standard on all Sprinters, the doors have a magnetic catch that keeps them stuck to the sides of the van. You can have the open just 90° on the door stay or open fully folded back against the side as you see in the video.
Thanks for that. I know that you can un-latch them from inside but all the ones I've tried only went back 90deg to the side of the van, so if you push them further they will sit flush with the side? Also do you have any details on your van? year, model,etc? why did you choose a sprinter? Have you covered this in another video already? I've been looking for a van for 3 years now but can't find a good one at a decent price. And what van to chose? There are so many online bad reviews on all of them. Thanks.
Hi Greg, absolutely love the videos. The level of detail and format really works well and is inspiring us to start our own. I have one really simple question. You have clearly spec'd the van to a high level and was wondering what the overall budget works out to be.
Hi Sharon, yes, we have chosen what we thought to be the best products for our van so this is at the top end of the DIY builds. The van cost us £6.6k and we have put a further £13.5k into the build. There are some very big ticket items so it can be done much cheaper if you don't have that kind of budget. But overall just a bit over £20k So now internally we have a high spec new van and for a fraction of the cost of a production van.
Greg Virgoe Hi Greg, Thank you for the reply it is very much appreciated. We will continue to follow all you videos as they are brilliant. I have one subject that is really troubling me at the moment and that is the total vehicle weight and the axle weight. Do you have any advice or are you planning on covering this in a later video? Sharon
Hi Sharon, yes this is at the forefront of my mind while we were doing our conversion. You have a huge white van and think, oh yeah, it must be able to carry loads of weight but quite the opposite really. In the UK they are limited to a maximum weight of 3500kg for the single wheel versions so I have tried as much as possible to use lightweight materials and keep the construction methods minimal while still being strong. I have it booke din next week for MOT and weighbridge visit so watch this space as they say lol :D
Hi Greg nice job of the door cards and van in general. I was just wondering where carpeting the rear pillars leaves you in regards to accessing the rear lights if you ever had a problem with one of those. Thanks
Hello, very good point. On the sprinter there are three screws that hold the rear light lens on. The lights are accessed but undoing these screws and removing the entire light. Then the light cluster unclips from the back of the lens. So you do not need those holes in the door posts. Thanks for asking 😊
@@GregVirgoe thanks for the reply mate. Me and my girlfriend are currently doing a self build and are planning to travel europe come August. Your videos have been very helpful
HI Greg, Great video series you have inspired me to have a go myself to create a van for the family, I will more than likely be having bunk style beds at the back though. Did you ever sit down to work out how much all the materials cost?
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
Could water get into the insulation through the door latch mechanism hole or any holes for rubber grommets and such in there? How do you know the back of those pockets where you tucked the insulation is sealed?
I cut the insulation back clear of the door lock and corresponding drain hole on the latch side. I made sure the number plate screws were sealed on the side. The internal was sprayed with oil based inhibitor. Yellow stuff on video. Good point though.
To be doubly sure you can enclose your insulation in plastic bags like pillow cases.
Hope that helps. Cheers
Hi Greg
I can't make out what's going on with the road trip around Europe..
Have you started it yet & if so where are you & are you vlogging it yet ????
This is a good point, it's very hard to make a van water tight. The same goes for the walls - the trim on the outside of most vans is literally pushed on through honest to goodness holes in the metal. That's why there are drain holes in the bottom of the van. People who spray foam everywhere inside their vans may be in for a rude shock if they cover those lower drain holes, as in they get their own indoors swimming pool. But this is why using insulating material that is in itself hydrophobic and doesn't soak up moisture is probably very smart. Anything organic like denim or such I'd stay far, far away from for van insulation, personally. Thinsulate might work, or if you have the funds and want to go high tech, aerogel mats. Those are a bit dusty to work with but the R value is off the scales.
You can easily put a small blob off sealant on the inside of each plastic fixing to make them watertight before insulating. The Earthwool I used is water repellant and won't act like a sponge. If you are still concerned then bag your insulation in plastic like pillows before inserting it into the voids. Most people don't realise that water enters their doors via the window rubbers when winding the windows up and down. 😳
Greg Virgoe Hi Greg! What’s the name of the oil based inhibitor you used on the inside of the rear doors? Would you also recommend using this on all surfaces in contact with the insulation? Thanks for this amazing series of videos!
Cutting the cornering in the carpet around that notch was so satisfying
The stretchy van lining is great to work with and gives a really nice finish
Loved your little trick with fitting the screws in some cardboard and painting them to match. Very neat. Thanks for sharing.
Spraying the screws! As ever Greg your attention to detail is brilliant.
I didn’t like the look of those plastic screw caps so I tried this inside the van and unless you are looking for them they just disappear so quite happy 😃
Enjoy all your videos, got them all saved for our van build. Watched this intently...then realised we are getting a Luton box van!
I watch loads of videos that I have no intention of doing myself, just interesting and much better than normal TV :D
@@GregVirgoe couldn't agree more!
Another great job. Thanks. Love the way the wind helped turn the carpet over.
luckily there wasn't any glue on it then as that stuff sticks like mad :D
Personally I think that i can learn to do this jobs well with a lot of practice and commitment. But to get to this degree of precision is not enough !! To work this way you need to have a special gift in DIY !! A million compliments !! Make things look easy, what's not easy!
Like everything in life the more you have a go the better you will get, but first, you have to start.
Hopefully i can give you a bit more confidence that you can actually do these things and very well too
Three of my favourite things Boats, bikes and Campervans it just gets better and better
You will enjoy next weeks video I am sure.
Hats off to you again Greg!! Another excellent video where you are showing us the how to details. I never knew the simple upholstery tricks you showed us. Those little details gives us the confidence and know how so that we can do our own. We really appreciate your attention to showing us the details. We all realize it takes you longer to do that. Thanks so much!!
I really appreciate your comments Don, Thank you
I am enjoying the build and the video part too.
Best rear door finish I've seen on a Sprinter. Great job, Greg.
Thank you Ian, very kind of you 😊
Thanks Greg for showing the detailed cuts around the corners of the boards. Most people simply say they covered with the carpet. Those little details help a great deal! Beautiful work as usual.
if you have never applied this stuff before those bit are what you need to know so it makes sense to show how to do it.
thanks for the comment and for appreciating the details
Oi When this van is rocking, don't come a knocking! Great Job!
lol cheers
This is better than watching SKY TV any-day... nice job Greg as always. Lovely simple tip on using the existing screw holes... never thought of that. Also loved the painting of the screw heads... genius. You must have been one hell of Mechanical Services Engineer..
Really glad you like the extra tips.
Contractors would like working with me as the jobs ran smoother because the detail and planning were there.
Fantastic build Greg a true craftsman. I'm a ex builder from Berkshire,had an accident two years ago left me spinal problems end result 3 level fusion
Your videos have kept me going as I've always wanted to do my own self build. Fingers crossed hoping maybe next year. Your workmanship
Is outstanding a true professional.
Well done.
Hi Rob, sorry to hear about your back, I too suffer from an old bodybuilding accident during a max deadlift competition.
I now have fortnightly chiro adjustments and regular massages, so I can empathise with your condition.
Hope you get to fulfil those dreams and best wishes with your future build, keep me posted, cheers
As I've said before, this is hands down the best van build I've seen on youtube (I've seen a lot) the attention to detail is unbelievable right down to the colour matching screw heads brilliant.
That's very kind, thank you. It's the little details that make all the difference.
Gonna build a couple of these but use cladding instead . Thinking Great idea with spraying the self tapping screws to tie in with the couloirs scene . Another great job done there Greg. Thank you , learning so much from your great videos ✌🏻
Like the idea of spray painting the screws. Always learn something watching your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Many thanks and pleased you like them
I spy a pair of folding saw horses, I have a pair too just for those jobs like you have just shown us. Great job Greg, looks great.
We have two sets, a metal pair which I was using and a plastic pair.
really handy for setting up a temporary work bench
Have to say Greg, your videos and van build quality are some of the best on here! I'm late to the van build party, but have finally started the dream I've had for years with a Transit Custom high top. I'm confident of completing the entire build just on your content alone! Great work my man!👏 Thank you!
I’m really pleased you find the info to be helpful and wish you all the best with your build 👍🏼😃
Watching you wrap those cards was oddly satisfying.😄 Nice job!
I’m glad you liked it 👍🏼😃
To locate the screw holes for fixing the cards I carpeted the face of the panels like you did then drilled through from behind through a piece of masking tape stuck to the finished face before glueing the carpet to the rear of the cards. This allowed the holes to be easily located through the masking tape from the front which was then peeled off before tightening the screws. This worked very well as I did not have a second door card to use as a template. Liked the idea of painting the screw heads prior to fixing. Great work.
Yes, I can follow your method quite easily. very good.
I have gone through about a dozen rolls of masking tape, thankfully only 99p a roll.
You make everything look so easy Greg. Another top job.
Try and think through the whole job, doesn't always go to plan, but that's how you learn right :D
Hopefully, my videos will make it easier for everyone else.
Perfect timing Greg, I'm just doing the same job, enclosing the aperture where Optare's my folding side doors were. Thanks as always, I loved using the old panel to find the screw holes and painting the self-tappers to match the trim was inspired !
Really pleased it has been useful to you Roy
Thank you again! Love the upholstery technique. Your van is looking excellent.
Thank you Susan, much appreciated
The finishing off of the carpet around the notches and radius’s corners was exquisite Greg.. I made a right pigs 🐷 ear of mine 😆
Another Top Video 👍🏼
That carpet does look pretty stretchy and forgiving also, but indeed nicely done.
Really appreciate the compliment Ian, thank you
Yes, it is very stretchy and can be moulded around curves, getting rid of the excess is the key
Gutted! I can't believe this is the most recent video... I've binge watched all of them over the last few nights.
Thanks very much for watching them all :D are you planning your own van build?
@@GregVirgoe it's just a pipe dream at the moment, but I've been researching van builds for the best part of a year. By far, this is the best build series. Thanks for taking the time.
Many builds I've seen add netting or bags on the doors for more utility. Good video as always
That may be an option for later if we need extra space
nice one greg, i have to say though, i have trim-fixed 2mm closed cell foam on all my visible metal, and it really has eliminated all thermal bridges. that metal will suck all the heat out. the difference is remarkable.
It is enough to change the surface temperature by a few degrees.
Did you still have to cut it short fo the door rubbers though?
Any issues with making it look neat and tidy?
Greg Virgoe yes I had to trim around the rubber seals, and then I covered it up
Excellent job and fascinating to warch - thank you.
Too young to be old thank you
Best looking interior rear doors I have seen. Thanks for all the help your videos provide .
Another great video, I like how you show how to cut the carpet on round edges! I personally would have gone with screw cups and caps but each to their own.
That's the beauty of a self-build, you can have your van exactly how you like it.
Greatly appreciate your videos!!! As I've mentioned numerous times and so have others, your attention to details is phenomenal ( it's the Virgo lol). I learned how to do carpet on the doors, those corners!!!!!!😲❤️❤️❤️❤️ . You have set the standard, my good man, in Van conversions. Amazing to watch what you are doing next. I found myself looking for the screw heads on your door panels. Blessings sent for safe travels once the build is completed.
Always lovely to read your very kind comments.
Thank you for following me and your support
Excellent you work Sir 👍👍👍
greetings from South America
Tim Knox thank you very much. Welcome 🙏🏼
Beautiful work as usual Greg. Once again thank you.
You are most welcome :D
All your videos are master classes, your on a different level Greg Top man,
And the hits keep coming! Thanks Greg!
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Thank you Greg, you have given me some good ideas. I mainly like your video because you make it easy to follow your process. Thanks.
The plan is to show you the steps and not just talk about it.
A picture paints a thousand words or so they say. :D
I have not got any door cards on any of the doors in the back of my van so I will be making a template but I will be using door card plastic plugs which no one will see when I get around to making them I will do my best to make a video , thanks for sharing,I know this video is a while back but I’m sure it will help loads of people. Hope your still enjoying your EUROPE trip
Excellent vid (again) Greg 👍
I got my roof rack and ladder fitted today 😀
Roof liner next I will be using your vid for that too
Good sailing teaser
Best Regards
Dave, Jo and Louie 👍😀🐾
Hi Dave, If you are using similar vinyl covered ply I have a top tip for you.
wrap sellotape over the edge of the board before inserting into the PVC trim.
It will slip in the trim easier and prevents the vinyl from peeling back.
I'm looking forward to editing the Yacht video, I have a fantastic idea for follow up :D
Thanks Greg will do 👍
Say hi to Lou from us up North 👍😀🐾
I just want to add my kudos for this outstanding video series. I originally found your series in a search for van insulation and your series is by far the most complete detailed and frankly makes the most sense. Although I am working on a GMC Safari van all of the information in these videos applies. Thank you for posting this video series!
Very neat and tidy work; but what do you expect it's Greg Virgoe! 👍😃
Thank you, so kind of you
@@GregVirgoe😊
Спасибо за подробное, интересное видео! Подписан на ваш канал и смотрю с удовольствием! Многое пригодилось мне!!! Удачи Вам, добра и процветания!!!
I really appreciate this format. Thank you and keep it up
Glad you liked it, Cheers
Thanks for the brilliant and helpful Videos... your a great teacher Greg.. the best Ive seen
Yet again a great detailed video Greg.
Blimey I've got a lot of work to do on mine but feel more confident knowing I can reference back to your vids when needed.
They will always be here Dave, how far are you with your build?
@@GregVirgoe only just ripping out all the old flooring and sika flexing all the joints so a long long way to go but I will get there eventually.
Will look forward to your next vid.
Cheers Greg
Dave
Another super video, Dave! Like others, I really appreciate the details on gluing the backside of the carpet.
Who's Dave? lol
Most contact adhesives need to be applied to both surfaces then allowed to dry before bonding together.
Been a big fan of your channel for a while now. Great video here. Thanks to Greg and his awesome assistant. - D
Trying to involve Lou a bit more, but she is very camera shy and not an internet person.
Sat watching while I was making up bus bars for the solar going on my new shed roof. Like most things I've turned my hand to recently I find myself asking would this pass the Virgoe test.
LOL, that is brilliant, thank you. I used to watch a lot of "The New Yankee Workshop" and often think to myself "What would Norm do?"
Ha ha! Loved watching Norm on TOH. The show is available on RUclips now. Sonn my r good tips there.
A pro class result as usual, nicely done. Insulating the rear doors (and of course finishing them off nicely) is something I've seen people neglect, which makes no sense, that will suck heat out of the vehicle like nobody's business if it's not insulated. In fact, I would have preferred a layer of some kind of insulation under the entire top door panel - as in, a sheet that covered the whole door, and not just stuffed in the door itself - but I'm not sure if that would fit and still let the doors close, perhaps not.
You can make the door cards thicker, however, they do have to be sized to fit inside the door rubbers as the rubber trim needs to seal against the metal of the door to be water proof.
I guess that's something I'll have to "trial and error" my way through when I actually get a van and get started. But the insulation inside the cavities still means that you have direct metal contact between the outside and inside of the door, so the metal will be icy cold regardless. So it's not quite as bad as not insulating the door at all, but the door card is in some respects the insulation you have between the inside and the metal, in my opinion, and 5 mils of plywood and a nice carpet isn't super insulating. But perhaps insulating the doors is just not physically doable to the standard one needs to camp in arctic temperatures. I've seen people construct 5-10 cm thick insulating mats/pads that are sized to cover the entire rear end of the vehicle and cover both doors in their entirety in icy weather in order to get the whole rear-end of the van properly insulated. Maybe there's no way around that. But of course I'm talking about stuff like -20 degrees C now.
Croft, you're never going to be able to insulate the door frames as the metal needs to seal against the rubber. We do not plan to be using ours in sub zero temps as like the birds we are heading south for winter 😎 vans are not built the same way as motor homes and there is always going to be these weak points.
Yep, there are big benefits from constructing the entire shell of the vehicle from scratch, the way they do with a class B+ that starts out life as a cab with a frame on it. All the surfaces including the doors can be made sealed and full of insulation. I guess one just has to do the best one can, and then make sure the heater in the van is powerful enough to overcome the heat losses from the weak points in the insulation. After all, we ride around in normal cars with near-zero insulation and they're still nice and warm and toasty from the cabin heater built in to the vehicle, even in very cold temps. :)
Great detail and tips -Thanks Greg!!
Many thanks Linzi
That is probably the best door card build video I have ever watched. With added perky in the red tease-shirt ;o)
oh, I say... lol :D
More camp than camper my friend
Thanks Greg. I’m going to do exactly the same on my van. Much appreciated 👊🏻
One thing I've also noticed is it makes the doors so much quieter too and they now close with that soft thud of an expensive limo and not like a rattly old van lol
Great details and skills greg
Marcus Frankham thank you very much 😀
Hi, you make it look so easy and nice to see that you're maintaining your building standards right through this impressive project. It would be fun to know how many rolls of masking tape you end up using for the whole project! Hee Hee Thanks.
Yes, I should have negotiated a sponsorship deal with 3M lol 😆
Once again 👍 can’t wait to get stuck into mine, time to unwrap the water tanks!
great stuff, are you going for underslung tanks or internal ones?
I’m going for underslung tanks, very similar to yours, your video will be watched again a few times, lol
Great job as always greg :)
Thank you
greg your job is excellend mate,every detail and every construction is on a profesional level!good job!!!
Vapor barrier for these rear doors seem to be a problem, at least in my mind. There are a lot of small holes everywhere around the doors, around the locks, etc., where no vapor retarted/stopper is applied and thus air can travel inside the cavities where the insulation is to condensate. What is your opinion on practical experience with whether this is a problem or something one can live with?
Looking good bud but if you get a craft knife and cut a slit in were you want the screws.then screw in dry wall counter sunk screw then flip the carpet back over mabe use a little glue on a kids paint brush on the little bit off carpet to hold it down... you won't see any screws and you do the reverse if you need to take them off ..if any of this text makes sense lol keep up the good work ✌
Yes It’s an interesting way of concealing them altogether.
Thanks for sharing that.
Works on my to lovely you vans looking lovely
Thank you
Again nice work Greg looking forward to the next one, come from a sailing family so very interested.
Hi Rob, it was a fantastic few days, these opportunities don't come around that often.
I wonder if factory-made van conversions are anywhere near your level of detail and perfection?
There are a lot of pre-moulded parts on production vans which I can't replicate but I like to think that the underlying insulation and electrical services are installed to a much higher standard than what I have seen on production campers.
Keep it up, Greg!
Will do, cheers
Great with the new long videos ! Thx !
I think it's nice to see the whole process in more detail, rather than just showing the finished article and then just talking about what you (or your mate) did off camera. :D I prefer to watch a video when you see things being made.
Yes very nice door panels.
Thanks Greg. It's just finding the right year that doesn't look old fashioned and caravans are straight so lots of adjustment to scribe furniture to curved van
You would have to do that if you made from scratch or even bought a kit build van conversion pack as most are not shaped to fit when you buy
@@GregVirgoe very good point. I've just got to figure out what tools ect to buy what do you think are the most essential tools to buy I'm starting from scratch the only tool I have is a cordless drill Haha. Thank you for your replies
That’s the most useful tool so a good start. I would say jigsaw and circular saw. For cutting curved and straight lines. If you plan to use push in trim you will need a router.
@@GregVirgoe thank you Greg I might also some more pointers in the coming months if you dont mind. I feel I have a million questions I'd like to ask you but I'll try not too. Thank you. I'm going to use your videos as a guide. Why are you not my neighbour! Haha
Which router would I buy
Fantastic job!!
Thank you Mark
Why did you choose not to spray-glue the reflectix on the rear doors Greg? Did you discover the aluminium tape is sufficient?
Great stuff as always there and learning new tricks for my customer builds from the series also! Keep up the great work Greg!
So I can expect my consultancy cheque in the post any time soon Russ :D lol
I can buy you a pint if our paths ever cross Greg at the very least! Cheers Greg..
I'll look forward to that Russ!
Hey Greg ✋ another fantastic video. Bit of a boring question, obviously, you've done a lot of jigsaw work as part of your build, what do you find are the best blades for cutting the marine ply? Thanks
Liam Ballinger to get a straight cut you need a wide stiff blade not this thin flexible ones. For my Bosch saw they were T101B for normal up cuts and T101BR for down cuts on face of furniture board where you need a clean cut on the face. Trick is go slow, don’t force the jigsaw and let the blade do the work. 👍🏼😊
@@GregVirgoe thanks a lot for the advice 👊 I suppose you must be used to these types of questions by now. Your channel attracts people who, like you, really care about the miniscule details because they matter so much to the overall quality of this type of job. There now must be literally hundreds of well built (slightly over-engineered 😄) campers all over the world built by your RUclips disciples!
Great video as always Greg. Its given me a guide for when I do my own doors. :)
No problem Dave, happy to help :D
Hi Greg - Top Work as always! Quick question if you don’t mind? Above the Rear Doors (inside) there are cables running left to right. How did you carpet this area? Did you reroute the cables or Reflectix and carpet over them? Thanks again !
Great video. Just watched the first one. I was looking for tips for sound proofing a works van. Is ur insulation 4 warmth bc it's a camper, r 4 sound to? Thanks
Great videos thankyou. When you insulated the roof I noticed you didn't fill the box frames, do you regret this or was it enough to only do the flat parts. Many thanks Eric.
i did fill these with loft insulation just didn't film it. make sure to fill every little void as much as possible.
Hi Greg! I have a question why did you use a different wool for the doors? Would the earth wool work as well? The reason I ask is that I cant find the Diall wool...in Canada lol thanks another great vlog!
Hi Natalie, yes, Earthwool would be just fine for the doors, to be honest, I only needed a small amount and this was in a small roll and was just as good. Rather than me buying 8 large slabs of Earthwool that I wouldn't use. it was cheaper too :D
Hi Greg thanks for all your videos they really are terrific to watch and pick up tips for my own future build. At 14:29 you show your plug socket which is combined with two usb ports. I was wondering do you have to run your inverter to power those up or have you modified the plug some how to run the usb ports on 12v and the three pin on 240v? I'm keen for that high class finish but don't want to have to run the inverter just to charge our phones at night. Thanks in advance.
Hello Ben, These sockets are dual fed from my control panel from two switchable sources. Watch this video for full details ruclips.net/video/7qEL_kjaV8o/видео.html
With charging your devices it's better to do that during the day when you may have excess solar energy rather than at night when everything is being pulled off your batteries.
I have made some 12volt USB sockets with the same polished surrounds and may swap these out if I find we are not using the three pins at all.
Nice work. Very informative video.
Glad you liked it
Grand stuff as always. Any reason why you didn’t add any storage (hanging pockets or similar) to the doors? Or did you?
Broadsword 66 my other half does not like clutter and things that look messy
Looking good 😀
Thank you Evelyn
Hi Greg, love the build thread. So much information in every video! I'm looking for some advice. Trying to cover up a window in my minibus conversion. And I don't know how to go about insulating and sealing it due to condensation build up that will occur. Any ideas?
If that was my van I think I would black out the window from inside then apply a layer of self adhesive closed cell foam insulation like Armaflex you would avoid any air gaps and the insulation has built in vapour barrier. To improve the insulation value you can add extra wool based insulation over that before cladding. Make sure to seal all edges so no air can get the the window. Hope that helps
@@GregVirgoe that's great Greg, thank you. I was afraid of the condensation building up and dampening the insulation then. But as you say, air tight should stop the condensation. Very helpful, thanks 😁
How can even a single person dislike this video?? Why are you using Diall insulation now, rather than the Knauf earth wool you were using earlier?
Honest answer, we threw away the last of the earthwool before we realised that we still need to do the rear doors.
We didn't need much so rather than buy 8 slabs of earth wool I choose the Diall material which is just a credible.
There are other options out there that are eco-friendly and give just as good thermal properties.
Hi Greg you are a hoofing bloke and I'd like to meet you in person one day. I'm just about to start my Crafter conversion, so that I can be a fulltime Vanlifer because paying rent and bills suck! Just one question (of many I have), can you open the back doors from inside? I know the bed is there and I was wondering if it hinders opening the doors? Thanks for you detailed videos
Hi Greg how many furniture boards did you need for the build. I'm building a citroen relay l3h2 2014. I'm not sure weather to buy a donor caravan or buy parts as you did ?
Hello James, I used 7 furniture boards in total. A second hand caravan is a very good way to go. The appliances and heater, shower toilet gas etc £4-5k so you can make a huge saving.
I would do that next time.
Another great video - you are massively helping me out with my own Sprinter conversion! Are you planning to do anything in the cab area re insulation/vapour barrier? I couldn't help wondering about my uninsulated cab area whilst I was struggling to fill & seal every void in the domestic end. I'm not putting in the over cab storage or swivel seats in the front so was wondering if it might be best to board off the cab end from the back with an insulated wallboard? Would love to hear your thoughts on this and thanks again for your inspiration and excellent instruction!
The primary issue up front is probably the single glazed windows. When it gets cold they will leak heat like mad. I've seen people create a giant insulated blanket, multiple cm thick, that they cover them up with in arctic camping. Not pretty, but insulates very well. You could also build a compartment between the front and back, I guess, but I for one like vans with more open spaces, makes them far airier.
Hey Bob, We have quilted insulated window blinds that stick to the inside of the cab windows, we have installed a double lined blackout curtain between the cab and living area and most importantly I have one of the hot air ducts from our heater blowing into the cab to keep it warm and prevent condensation forming.
One BIG question, Why carpet? Are you not worried about the moisture it will absorb and then pass on to the unsealed plywood. I live in the Pacific Northwest in the US and I've been staying away from carpet for just this reason. Living in the UK where it's also known to be wet/damp it seems that once wet if not throughly dried out it will start to mold. The adhesive might slow it down a bit but once the moisture gets into the plywood ?????. I've been experimenting with vinyl but it's harder to get the nice looking cut seam edges you get with carpet.
Hiker Biker not at all. The van is extremely well insulated and has excellent ventilation and heating. We only get a small amount of condensation on the cab window if in extreme cold. But none of the internal van surface ever get damp. It’s never allowed to be cold in here. The boiler has frost setting of 10°C so it would never drop below that. I found with houses in the past you get those issues if you don’t hear and ventilate the space.
Greg, Where did you source the deep 90mm shower waste from? Struggling to find one with a 70mm or less flange. Can only find 86mm which is to big for recess. Did you use 1.5'' or 1.25''..... Chrome 1.25" Flush Grated Waste SLTD With Metal B/Nut 3.5"TL
Hello Tracey, here is the link where I got the waste from.
www.sparespro.co.uk/chrome-plug-less-unslotted-brass-body-cp-1-1-2-x-2-7-16-flange-89mm-solid-tail-flush-grated-waste
Thanks Greg...Sorted
Very nicely done!
Brilliant job Greg. Love your tutorials. I’m thinking when I eventually get a van to treat the whole of the van with wax oil before putting in the insulation. I think it may slow down rust. What’s your thoughts pls. Thanks
Hi Greg! Really enjoying your videos and your explanations really help in my van building process!
I am wondering about the vapor barrier on the door parts where is metal (edges of the doors). (Best seen on min. 12:23) The insulation is pushed inside the doors and there is just a metal( door carcass) comparing with the "window places" where you put insulation, then bubble wrap covered with a door card. What about warm and humid air that hits the doors right on this metal carcass where there is no door card? Are there any concerns about condensation occurring on these parts of the door?
Fantasric work buddy. Well impressed. Have you got any drawing of this cinversion you could share with me please
Take a look at my SketchUp videos and my 3D warehouse, link at the top of my youtube page
As always a fantastic job
Great vid again Greg thanks
My pleasure
Bloody hell greg how many times did you scratch your hands doing the door infill insulation 😀 they can be real shape on the. Metal. Well done looking good mate
Totally honest, not once Lee :D Granted it was awkward but it didnt bite me.
Hey to Greg, Dave here again.
Very professional fit an finish on those doors. Few, if any better looks than carpeted panels on the inside of doors.
Question: we're you tempted to cover the whole of the interior with the carpeted-look?
As well ... feel free to take credit because I'm starting the remodel of a modest-size shed to give me the necessary shop for work on my own Sprinter-build. And I must say, the explanation and demo of the shop's dust collection vacuum was priceless. Big Cheers for Greg's inspiring spirit!
Great stuff again, Lord Jesus bless.
Hi David, Thank you for such wonderful praise.
The door and window frames are carpeted as are the door cards.
The bedroom is felt but looks very similar to the van lining.
We did the roof in a white vinyl just to bring some light into the build.
I do like the look of the silver van lining and so easy to apply but you can have too much of a good thing.
Best wishes with your own build
Top Tips as always.
Thanks Roger
Greg just started following your channels and love every detail. I am a Brit out in Australia converting a Mitsubishi Express for myself and my wife to travel in, so want to say a huge thanks for each video! Can I ask, when you screw the door cards back on are you not puncturing the waterproof membrane you have created? Or do the screws provide adequate protection?
Can those rear doors open all the way like that? All the vans I've tried the doors don't go back that far? Is there a special hinge available for that?
This is standard on all Sprinters, the doors have a magnetic catch that keeps them stuck to the sides of the van.
You can have the open just 90° on the door stay or open fully folded back against the side as you see in the video.
Thanks for that. I know that you can un-latch them from inside but all the ones I've tried only went back 90deg to the side of the van, so if you push them further they will sit flush with the side?
Also do you have any details on your van? year, model,etc? why did you choose a sprinter? Have you covered this in another video already? I've been looking for a van for 3 years now but can't find a good one at a decent price. And what van to chose? There are so many online bad reviews on all of them. Thanks.
Oh yeah, u deserve my support.
oulghazi abdelwahab thank you I really appreciate it.
Hi Greg, absolutely love the videos. The level of detail and format really works well and is inspiring us to start our own. I have one really simple question. You have clearly spec'd the van to a high level and was wondering what the overall budget works out to be.
Hi Sharon, yes, we have chosen what we thought to be the best products for our van so this is at the top end of the DIY builds. The van cost us £6.6k and we have put a further £13.5k into the build. There are some very big ticket items so it can be done much cheaper if you don't have that kind of budget. But overall just a bit over £20k So now internally we have a high spec new van and for a fraction of the cost of a production van.
Greg Virgoe Hi Greg,
Thank you for the reply it is very much appreciated.
We will continue to follow all you videos as they are brilliant.
I have one subject that is really troubling me at the moment and that is the total vehicle weight and the axle weight. Do you have any advice or are you planning on covering this in a later video?
Sharon
Hi Sharon, yes this is at the forefront of my mind while we were doing our conversion. You have a huge white van and think, oh yeah, it must be able to carry loads of weight but quite the opposite really. In the UK they are limited to a maximum weight of 3500kg for the single wheel versions so I have tried as much as possible to use lightweight materials and keep the construction methods minimal while still being strong. I have it booke din next week for MOT and weighbridge visit so watch this space as they say lol :D
Hi Greg nice job of the door cards and van in general. I was just wondering where carpeting the rear pillars leaves you in regards to accessing the rear lights if you ever had a problem with one of those. Thanks
Hello, very good point. On the sprinter there are three screws that hold the rear light lens on.
The lights are accessed but undoing these screws and removing the entire light. Then the light cluster unclips from the back of the lens. So you do not need those holes in the door posts. Thanks for asking 😊
@@GregVirgoe thanks for the reply mate. Me and my girlfriend are currently doing a self build and are planning to travel europe come August. Your videos have been very helpful
Best wishes on your build Scott & Jen, and maybe bump into you in Europe later in the year 👍🏼😊
HI Greg, Great video series you have inspired me to have a go myself to create a van for the family, I will more than likely be having bunk style beds at the back though. Did you ever sit down to work out how much all the materials cost?