How to bypass a knock sensor, NOT RECOMENDED!
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- Опубликовано: 11 апр 2021
- in todays video i will be teaching you how to bypass a knock sensor on a 5.3/6.0 and this should work for many other cars, trucks and suvs! NBOT RECOMMENDED! But sometimes you have to do what u gotta do nobody likes driving a car that wont get up and go and if your knock sensor is detecting false knock then, the ecu most likely is pulling timing as a failsafe, but be sure it is false knock before you go bypassing the knock sensor!
All that u have to do in order to bypass the knock sensor is take which ever sensor is bad and wire it to the good 1 if both sensors are saying theres knock then u may have to pull the knock sensor out and sand down the holes that the sensor goes in and then try again!
Bank 1 is in the front of the engine it is the green wire
bank 2 is in the back it is the blue wire.
I hope this video helps you out if it does be sure to give it a like and Subscribe to the channel if u havent done so already i appreciate all the support it means a lot to me if you have any questions let me know in the comments below i answer everyone
Thanks for watching
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Video: Not recommended.
Me: I must watch.
Hahaha nice! 🤣 I'm the same way lol thank you for the comment 🙂
"It's super easy to replace knock sensors." 😂
TThanks for your video! I wonder...my 05 LeSabre, bank 2 sensor. Both sensors read at 100 K ohms. The tap test for both seemed ok. The bypass effort...When u wire two resistors in parallel it reduces the total resistance by about half. Now the computer only sees 50 000 ohms instead of 100,000 ohms for each one. ,I could put a 50 K ohm resistor in line with the
two sensors so that the computer will see the 100K again....Maybe it will be happier and not
change the engine timing. The bank 2 has been changed before (while the tranny was out)
but code remains. Also did continuity check of the wiring from the sensor to the computer plug and was good wiring. Still have the code..Engine is running great. No noticeable knock.
These sensors are mounted in blind (dry) holes so no coolant leaks during replacement.
May try the bypass method using the 50 k ohm resistor...TBD
Thanks again for your video. jP
Yeah Green is bank 2 the shorter wire and will only reach rear sensor, blue is longer to reach front of engine.
thanks boss
While corrosion in the well where the sensor screws in is most likely the culprit the wire harnesses are also know for developing a break. You can check the resistance to the sensor using a multimeter when you get around to finally replacing the bad sensor. A couple of tips are 1) replace both 2 replace their wiring harness especially if you just cut into one to bypass it.
This is a great short term fix, but definitely not recommend for longterm use.
If it works in the short term, why not the long term..?
Nice catch can!
Thanks it's a cheap Amazon 1 but works well lol
Cool. This is the last code I have on my 2005 Tahoe.
Did it work?
i've been having this problem on my 2002 escalade, mines pops a code P0332 low circuit 2 bank 2, every time in the mornings if i hard accelerate or just do spirited driving at times, but if yes i know what you mean when ever the code pops up, its feels heavy and drags like a mf and acceleration is soo laggy not instant as it usually is. So im gonna be doing my Bypass soon. Alos did you notice after you did your bypass that your vehicle got all its power back and acceleration?? let me know please, I slowly restoring my truck I love driving this thing it just sucks that the stupid knock sensor 2 is making run crappy whenever the code pops up.
Gonna give this a try. I have a 03 suburban 5.3. I’ve replaced bother knock sensors, the harness and intake gaskets twice. Using all OEM AC Delco parts. And still have knock sensor 2 (Bank 2) low input. I’ve cleared the codes plenty of times and the code still comes back. And it seems low on power. Also bad MPG around 8-10 driving like a grandma lol. (Engine pulls timing when it thinks it’s knocking).
did it work?
@@josephcoester3365 nope
It worked for me and many others There should be a comment pinned at the top with the exact colors of the wires.. If both knock sensors are bad this won't work. I only recommend doing this if u replace them with brand new sensors and it still throws a knock code then u know u have 2 good sensors so u can by pass which ever knock sensor is throwing the code. Sometimes both bank 1 and bank 2 will throw a code due to the rust and corrosion build up under the intake
It worked for me and many others There should be a comment pinned at the top with the exact colors of the wires.. If both knock sensors are bad this won't work. I only recommend doing this if u replace them with brand new sensors and it still throws a knock code then u know u have 2 good sensors so u can by pass which ever knock sensor is throwing the code. Sometimes both bank 1 and bank 2 will throw a code due to the rust and corrosion build up under the intake
@@BlackWidowdetailing Im sure it works. It just didn’t work for me. I think I have a wiring problem somewhere in the harness. I’ve already had to repair a ton of wires that mice chewed up
Question so when the check engine light comes on the truck goes into a weaker state (limp mode)…? So as long as there arent actually engine issues, bypassing the bad sensor will keep the truck running correctly because the light isn’t on & the computer doesn’t know…??? Correct?
I bypassed to the working knock sensor, check engine light came back on after about 100 miles….code says the working knock sensor is bad(low voltage)…..theories on this?
I’ve already took the intake apart once actually really simple, 30min maybe….so I’m gonna buy all new ac delco parts which is what I already had in there, already rtv’d it (dry and clean under there), removed back pad as well so if this doesn’t do it, it’s electrical….but I will say the first check engine light, knock sensor 2 was throwing the code & it did have oil & moisture in the hole….so I’ll clean it better I guess….
I'm curious to know if you ever got this fixed.
Did you ever check the ground from block to chasis as that is yet another known issue.
On my 2001 6.0 Suburban with nasty piston slap on cold start. I believe the knock sensors interpet that piston slap as detonation, so actually replacing knock sensors wont help as the code will constantly keep coming back. (GM went bankrupt to avoid responsibility for the millions of piston slapped engines BTW). Anyway, i bought 2 new KS’s and a new wiring harness. I attached ground wires to the threaded studs, attached the harness plugs to the new sensors, wrapped it up in bubble wrap and plastic bag, and stuffed it under the Vortec engine cover. Yey, now i get 13 mpg instead of 10!
To answer the question as to whether or not it will pass smog that’s a definite maybe. If you can hide it well enough under the Vortech engine cover to pass the visual inspection you’ll be fine if the technician sees it you will fail)
I had broke the top of it and just the bottom and it's inside the motor and how to remove it in I had broke the top of it just the bottom and it's inside the motor and how to remove it
Had the same thing happen to me, had to drill a hole into the center of the left over part of the knock sensor in the block with an EZ out (or you and use a torx bit if you don't have the EZ out), just make sure to vacuum all of the metal shavings out before removing the threaded bit so the don't fall down into the engine.
It questionable if the knock sensors have communication with the ecm to make changes drastic enough to cause serious issues. Typically speaking, if you have "knocks", you probably have other issues that will need to be addressed. The knock sensors may just essentially "mask" the real problem going on... I may try this bypass, just to get my light to come off from a p0332 and get me through winter cuz I don't have a garage.
So the knock sensors don't have a good seal and can actually go bad causing several issues.
What engine light code p0332
If it works in the short term, why not the long term..?
I think you got the colors backwards but good vid!! I just did it and no p0332!
Thanks man i appreciate it! And it's also possible that u had the opposite knock sensor go out, because the way I did it cleared my cel
So if it's oem the green one is for bank 2?
I believe bank 1 is green and bank 2 is blue
If bank 2 is the back its green 🤔 well mine is
Yeah man idk forsure but the diagram I looked at it was opposite of yours, but that doesn't mean the diagram was right. But I do know how I wired mine fixed my knock sensor problem. Do u have a 2004?
How’s it been run with it done
Mine has been great with 0 issue
Cool, but I want to bypass both?
And before anyone says "oh you gunna blow the motor" it's an old ass avalanche, I don't give a shit.
Not sure how u would do that maybe run am external power and ground to them and some sort of diode so that it meets its target voltage 🤔 witch if I remember right it's super low voltage
@@BlackWidowdetailing actually what I think I'm going to do is just buy a sensor and harness, thread it into the head, and run both sensor wires to that, basically deleting both the sensors under the intake.
@@Munky332 I like your idea. Did you end up trying it, how did it go?
@@ramoT-nj7el I bought 2 sensors and the harness, threaded them near each other (there's 2 places you can thread) easy. works great. No more CEL for that code now, but my O2 sensors went to shit and my cats are probably burned out to begin with, so that's next step.
You cant bypass both, but you can relocate one and use a single harness @BlackWidowdetailing
Is it a NKOCK sensor or is it a NOx (Nitros Oxide) Sensor?
Knock. It’s for engine knocking, NOx is for emissions
Thank you for responding 🙂
It's a knock sensor which will detect engine knock but sometimes the whole the sensor goes in gets a little corroded which will make the ecu read a false knock but it could definitely be knock as well so just Google as much as u can on it before attempting to bypass it
@@BlackWidowdetailing Nah, NOx sensor. Nitrous Oxide Sensor. - Sorry, you are wrong.
@@philstevens9914 🤣
Bank 1:Blue🔵
Bank 2:Green🟢
Gona tried this to pass smog knock sensor onlythig stopin to pass smog
How'd it go?
@@BlackWidowdetailing forgot to comment back but it pass no more check engine ligth truck running normal
Hell yeah! Those damn knock sensors can be a pain in the ass
@@BlackWidowdetailing yea i rather have someone who know doit
looks like viking
I changed the knock sensor 2 times and its still showing the same code
Sometimes, the hole the knock sensor is in gets rusty, and it doesn't allow the knock sensor to Ground properly u could try cleaning that hole with a wire brush and see if that works if it doesn't u may have to bypass it unless your engine is really knocking
Same here I just spent over $600 and it's solved nothing
You only need one knock sensor Second one is just redundant.
Will it pass smog?
Yes because it turns the check engine light off and there's no need for them to check it if there's no check engine light on mine always passes and it's been over 2 years
@@BlackWidowdetailing You can also check with an Ohm Meter. And the lowest of the two would be the bad one. Then do what you did by taking the bad one and jumping it over to the good one. Just in case the “Wire Colors” are different for some reason. Hope that makes sense. 🤝
Thanks man I wasn't aware of this
I appreciate your comment 🙏
@@BlackWidowdetailing Your Welcome Bud! Hope It Helps. 🤝
So where you a northerner at one point??
Huh what do u mean
@@BlackWidowdetailing the four dots on your hand
@@anthonysandoval3058 ah Most don't notice lol Nah man it's just something my cousin and I as well as a few others did as kids I was like 12 or 13 It just stands for Body, Mind, Spirit, Soul
Why the gay music
Your sister likes it
Super gay