I was having the same problem with my 05 Yukon Denali 6.0 Vortec. Thanks to your video I was able to relocate the knock sensor to the passenger side of the block. Now at 1st it wouldn’t just screw in on a cold block but, in my opinion after I ran the engine for a little while the block heated up and that made the knock sensor easy to screw in to the already drilled out bolt pattern. Honestly I just hand tightened the sensor, and ran wire from the sensor back to the connector, spliced & connected those wires and Walla Check Engine Soon Light GONE! Its been over 2 weeks now with no problems 😎
You are a genius! My kia trans temp sensor wiring went out! 3-4 thousand fix! No way! I mounted the $20.00 sensor to the side of the transmission and spliced into the wiring! 10 minute permanent fix! I even spliced/soldered, and heat shrinked the wiring!
The easier fix would be to just connect both the green and blue wire together and disconnect the wire to the bad sensor. In your case if both sensors go bad just connect both the green and blue wire to your one new sensor. no need for 2 sensors. The ECM reads the sensors seperate so you can trick the computer to think both sensors are connected by connecting both wires to the same sensor. At least that's what I've been told.I just conneted both my wires to the same sensor today and cleared the codes. So far so good.
Cool advice, by the way before you bypassed the sensors did your truck have a loud whirring noise & loss of power? On my hummer h2 this seems to be the issue & also when I hit the brake while the truck is parked the noise gets louder. Now it appears to be some oil leaking from front bumper on passenger side which I'm more concerned about now if that's what it is. I'm hoping it's just a busted hose or something simple. Not sure what it all means but hopefully I can make the fix. Any insight would be gladly appreciated thanks👍😁💪😎💪
@@J.Crooner that sounds like a power steering leak. And your getting air in the pump. The breaks and steering systems both use the same vacuum assist on the pedal. So when you step on it it increases the pressure in the pump making it “growl “ more. Unfortionatly I can’t tell you how to fix it. As I have the same problem. And have been looking for a fix myself .
Turns out I had a rusted corroded power steering cooler that's where my leak was coming from. I simply took it off and bypassed it all together. I refilled the reservoir and it fixed the problem completely haven't had any trouble since it happened 💪😎💪👍😁👌
Yes it looks like a small radiator that's mounted in front of the actual coolant radiator in front of the truck on the drivers side it sits at the top and is easy to access. My cooler was in such bad shape I had to cut it off where the hoses connect to it. The rust wouldn't allow me to simply unscrew the two hoses attached to it with a wrench. After I cut it off I went to Auto zone and bought a one foot of coolant hose for like two dollars and simply reconnected the hose lines I cut when taking the cooler off. I put two small clamps on it and it's ready now no problem at all.👍😎👌
FOLLOWED your instructions took truck to emissions and it passed like a champ ,THANK you very much.This gives me time to do it right this next summer Again thank you merry christmas and happy new year...
I did this on my 03’ Silverado 6.0 on 4-12-19. Both my sensors are bad, so I was working on putting my 2nd sensor where you suggested with the temp sensor. Well, it’s a coolant sensor, so that didn’t work. I looked for a long while, and couldn’t find another spot, so I did what I really didn’t want to do, I put both wire feeds from the computer on to one sensor, by just using the older harness, and splicing them to 1 wire, and put the sensor on the passenger side of the motor. I know it’s more ideal to have 2 sensors, but my thought, is if you keep everything else working right, you shouldn’t have issues, and I am not. I have an idea for possibly getting a sensor on the other side, but I won’t be doing that anytime soon.
Could be worse you could be having to remove a SBC intake getting coolant everywhere. The new LS design is pretty much all good designs. Yes the knock sensors are buried on the the gen 3s but its not bad to get to them.
This is to all commentors. Any derogatory comments about my knowledge and skill as a mechanic wil not be tolerated. Any comments i find like the one Rick Williams Jr. Just posted will be removed and you will be muted. I will not tolerate that level of meanness.
I just changed mine...2001 Yukon 5.3...its not as hard as it looks.. watch a few videos if you have to,fix it correctly and be proud that you accomplished something
@@matthewgreen8335 they put them in the center of the engine and under the intake so it can accurately detect engine pinging to adjust your timing...threading them into a random spot on the block will prevent that.. pinging is bad and you could ruin your engine(burning holes in piston) your relocated sensor will tell the computer that everything is fine as you pass a car on the highway pinging along stressing those poor pistons...and pissing out black smoke....not to mention,the knock sensor sticking out of the head is exposed to weather(the reason they fail is because water gets trapped around them and they rust out under the intake making them loose ground) and you could get a false positive due to background noise,pot holes,bumps in the road, vibration.. your idea might shut the light off,so you could sell it and shaft some one..but definitely does not fix the problem...
Well... Beings as it's been 4 years now since the mod and 180k miles later.... ( truck has 270k by the way...) and i have pulled transports with this truck (in the snow no less) i highly doubt the motor will go anytime soon. The "doomsday" scenario you speak of is caused by "hot rodding" and lack of maintenance. I have spent years finding how many ways once can adjust gm motors and still have them perform flawlessly. Everyone has the right to do the repair their own way. Just as i have the right to post this video. If they wanted to do the repair right they wouldn't watch this. I'll respectfully ask you to appreciate the video for what it's worth.
@@DailyDriverGarage dude if your car is in good shape it should never ping in the first place. they are fine being by passed or even tuned out . if your car pings you got an issue to start with
@@DailyDriverGarage GM ended up putting the knock sensors outside on the block below the exhaust manifolds on later models. Not on the heads, but outside in the weather. I get your point, but I'm faced with this issue and if I can figure where GM put them on the updated location, thats where they're going.
Like most other things in the auto industry. If they make it harder for "THE DO IT YOURSELFER" /folks with less money. Then typically that person will either take it to a dealer or mechanic. If it goes back to the dealer then its a win/win for that business..
American ingenuity!!!!!!! GM should hire you Sir instead of those so called engineers that came out with the stupid idea of installing the knock sensors under the intake for 99 thru 2007 gm trks. Thank you for your help, it really does work......
Technically u should use the stock location however if you go to the 08+ years of the 6.0L you will see gm pulled their head out of their proverbial arse and located both knock sensors below the exhaust manifolds on each side respectively there is nothing wrong with doing this except if u have upper valve train rattle then it can and will cause an issue ... 01chevy2500hd6.0L86k both of mine are located in the updated position with no issues
It may keep the check engine light off,but the sensors need to be in the engine block, so they can actually detect knock, either in the original location or on the side of the block,while it is in the head it will never detect knock to correctly adjust timing as it should, sounds like a good idea to relocate the knock sensors,but they need to be mounted to the side of the block if they are to do the job they are intended to do,otherwise just have them tuned out by a tuner.
To each his own,but as far as putting it in the head ,I mean you could just put in on the firewall to keep the CEL off,wouldn't be much different as far as detecting knock,just saying.
@@matthewgreen8335engine knocks/ detonation are at the piston, with it's piston to cylinder clearance and oil film AND the cylinder head. I believe the cylinder head is the best place with nothing to intefere the knock vibration to the knock sensor.
2001, just started acking up, did two into one wire, today, see if get gas mileage back up...thinking doing the same, might come up with rubber cover for all , more of Aircraft plug....
I tried this on 01 Tahoe it didn't work for me. I ended up splicing both sensor wires to the one sensor that worked. A former gm Tech told me it shouldn't have worked but it did.
Julio Gonzo it is possible you had a bad sensor. it took 3 sensors before the problem went away for me. Most of these repairs are trial and error anyway.
Great idea I just replaced my intake manifold gaskets on my 5.3 litre as they were leaking I was told to replace the knock sensors at the same time with genuine parts keep in mind there was nothing wrong with the old ones I also replaced the wiring harness did the silicone dam update the new gaskets fixed the problem but a week later thru a code for bank 1 knock sensor I refuse to tear it down again I going to do this great idea of your does it just screw in or did you have to tap it
I gotta do my intake gasket my knock sensors are toast. So I'm going to do them. Just because I'll be there. But thanks for this info. The second time they go on me. I'll do it
So my knock sensor is causing me not to have any power at all it'll run fine sometimes then I'll lose power so if I do the bypassing will I get all my power back sir
I thought about this for a little while now. I figured keeping it away from the pulley system so it doesn't get false readings. Basically those are microphones for the computer to listen for pinging. If they are real close to the pulleys it might cause you to burn more gas. I thought about making a plate, one on both sides and mount them in the back of the motor. I'm just a shade tree mechanic so I don't know a whole lot. If any of ya'll want to add to my comment or call me a dumbass put it below. Need more ideas but he is on track I think.
Which sensor did you bypass in the video the front or back knock sensor? How well has it worked. May have to do this as i have a rusted snapped sensor in bank 2.
Bradley Hunt i bypassed the front knock sensor (bank1) but this can be done for either sensor. And since i did this a year ago i have had no codes pop up anymore.
The 1999 to early 2007 (Silverado classic trucks) 5.3l vortec and the 6.0l vortec engines the knock sensors were placed in the center under the intake in order. ( bank 1 in front bank 2 in the rear) for the modification i placed bank 1 sensor on the passenger cylinder head. If bank 2 sensor starts giving me trouble. I will install it on the driver side cylinder head.
👍😎Nice video, so with the relocation of the new sensors did you just leave the old ones in & just reroute the wires or you took out the old knock sensors?
👍😁👌Thanks for info I appreciate it, I have the 2005 H2 Hummer & hopefully this will fix the high pitch whirring noise I'm hearing. I'm concerned that for some reason the area near the front bumper on the passenger side of the truck appears to have leaked out some type oil residue if that's what it is but I checked the oil level & it's ok. Is there anything else on the front side bottom right corner of the engine that oil or some other type of fluid could be leaking? Any further insight to this issue would be greatly appreciated, thanks bud👍😎
Also when the truck is running in park sitting stationary if I apply the brakes the noise gets louder hopefully this can add further insight into what is actually going on👍😎
Could be something as simple as 1 or both sensors could be faulty right out of the box... not torqued right... or the wire harness is bad/not making good connections. I would try re torking them... then for plan b try using old harness...
@@matthewgreen8335 thank you i will have to take it off again 🤦♂️ lol thanks yea I installed everything new due to old omes has so much corrosion and wire where toasted ...
If you replace them again take a look inside the holes the sensor goes in. If the top of the threaded hole is crusty, clean it up with a dremel tool with a small wire brush attachment. If the sensors don't make good clean contact you'll get error codes.
Hey this might sound dumb but I have a 03 tahoe that like sputters or surges when I hit the gas could it be from knock sensor and how can u tell if both are bad lol
Jake Stumbaugh its been almost a year since ive done this and the code has never come back. Besides if it ever does again, changing the sensor is a piece of cake!
Will a bad knock sensor cause my Tahoe to not shift into 3rd gear? It shifts perfect from 1st to 2nd it recently just did this the other night no problems at all before only code that came up with engine light was knock sensor
I've honestly never heard of that happening. As for the loss of 3rd gear... sounds like a solenoid in the transmission went out. All the knock sensor is responsible for is to control ignition timing.
Matthew Green I already replaced solenoids 1-2 and 2-3 I read in a forum where the knock sensor will affect transmission the ECU tells it to run in a more economic gear I’m replacing knock tomorrow wish me luck
I have my sensors on order to do the job. My question is there any reason that I can't mount both sensors on the front of the head on the left facing the motor? Do they have to be on different sides?
Typically you want them on each side so that you stand the best chance of picking up a "knock". If you mount both on one side you run the risk of the sensor missing a ping on the other side....
Hugo Alday yes it should as long as you have a direct contact with the cylinder head or the engine block you should be good to go. For ease of accessibility i prefer the cylinder heads.
Hi Matthew. ...and I thought I had a genius idea. Looks like you beat me to it. When I had the code/light go on I bit the bullet and pulled the manifold to replace them along with a new harness. Two months later guess what? Yup, bank two is setting the ck engine light again!! Argh! I'm going with your method (should have done it in the first place). Thanks for showing that it WILL work. Question, did you have to drill and tap the head for the knock sensor threads?
I've got p0332 code for bank 2 only on my '99 with the 4.8 Vortec. Would this work? , and if so , where is the tab on the manifold to splice in for that sensor?
Gonna try it some time, nothing to lose since the motor has almost 300k and the truck only worth few thousand dollars. I stopped making shops rich off of my old trucks with other mods, still running strong. Yea no doubt GM was consistent bout not recognizing some simple engineering fixes.
jamie patroni i kept getting the knock sensor codes myself until i relocated them. Try to buy the quality sensors like bwd or ac delco. The other brands were crap.
Matthew Green I will definitely try the relocation route as I’m not pulling the intake for a 4th time. As these trucks age the knock sensors start picking up noises from everywhere. Thanks
caleb patt The second knock sensor is still in the stock location. It hasn't thrown a code so i just left it where it was. Typically only one sensor throws a code. But if the second one throws a code i will install it on the driver side cylinder head.
@@rodneys9805 yes. I do. And the early vortec engines had them located on the outside of the block. So i fail to see how my putting them there would be any less effective.
Not simple to do its a pain in the ass and tedious. However idk what the one moved reads to come up with a conclusion if this is a valid repair. Back in the 80s they started with knock sensors but they were all mounted on the outside of the blocks but there wasn't a ECU like today to read values.
@@Boot_185 it seems to be working fine for me its been almost a year since I did the modification and it runs and drives just fine and hasn't thrown a code.
I have a much easier way. Just tie the signal wire in with the one that's working. Meaning you had the front one go badd that's the blue wire so cut the blue wire tie it in with the green wire everything is fine you're only running with 1 knock sensor then no check engine light thing runs great.
Also it's a good idea to discharge every module on the Chuck and have it re learn disconnect the battery and jump the positive and negative together walk away for 5 minutes or so when you hook everything backup the truck will stumble and re learn everything while its re learning run the shit out of it. This way the Knox sensors aren't mistaking normal engine wear noise for knock.
Resetting the modules A is a great idea for older vehicles anyway makes the computer re learn values from older sensors. Then it figures out how to run right offer those values which may be slightly different than a brand new sensor or when the sensor was put in.
Not being derogatory but the proper fix takes an hour total with basic hand tools. Looks like you put in more time and effort for the " bypass". It's not the smartest design by gm but it's not rocket science either.
If the GM company would only hire some good ole country boys to design a truck! Why cant they make thing simple? My 6.0 vortec is giving me fits with that dang Knock sensor crap. and other horse dung with these Chevy trucks ! Anybody want to buy my Hummer? Call cowboy.
Don't, just please don't do this. Replace the sensors and harness once and don't hack your vehicle. All you need to do is to add some silicone around the caps to seal them off from any moisture and you're golden. This repair doesn't cost a hundred, so not sure how you can save hundreds either.
My issue with the bank 2 and after swapping in new intake gaskets and knocks for the code to come back I said fuck it I’ll try this and it’s working so far
Bro I’m not even a mechanic, I RUclipsd how to replace them.. And it’s a very easy fix and it is not a pain in the ass to replace it’s an hour job maybe two if you want to take your time and be very careful etc.
Clearly you didn't read the title of the video. This is a bypass. NOT... i repeat... NOT a replacement. If i wanted to waste money on this truck then i would do so. Im not a mechanic myself. But i detest having to tear the intake off every time one sensor fails!! This way i don't have to.
It easy unless water gets in the pockets and rust the sensor to hell. Ask me how I know, please come over and yank this thing out. I've been a back yard mechanic for a long time. Everything is easy when it's easy. When it's not it's a pain.
Hate to burst your bubble bub. I haven't touched them since the modification... and that has been 100k miles and counting ago... Now instead of making snide comments how bout you appreciate the fact that some modifications can work if you know what you are doing....
Great idea I just replaced my intake manifold gaskets on my 5.3 litre as they were leaking I was told to replace the knock sensors at the same time with genuine parts keep in mind there was nothing wrong with the old ones I also replaced the wiring harness did the silicone dam update the new gaskets fixed the problem but a week later thru a code for bank 1 knock sensor I refuse to tear it down again I going to do this great idea of your does it just screw in or did you have to tap it
I was having the same problem with my 05 Yukon Denali 6.0 Vortec. Thanks to your video I was able to relocate the knock sensor to the passenger side of the block. Now at 1st it wouldn’t just screw in on a cold block but, in my opinion after I ran the engine for a little while the block heated up and that made the knock sensor easy to screw in to the already drilled out bolt pattern. Honestly I just hand tightened the sensor, and ran wire from the sensor back to the connector, spliced & connected those wires and Walla Check Engine Soon Light GONE! Its been over 2 weeks now with no problems 😎
Any updates?
You are a genius! My kia trans temp sensor wiring went out! 3-4 thousand fix! No way! I mounted the $20.00 sensor to the side of the transmission and spliced into the wiring! 10 minute permanent fix! I even spliced/soldered, and heat shrinked the wiring!
The easier fix would be to just connect both the green and blue wire together and disconnect the wire to the bad sensor. In your case if both sensors go bad just connect both the green and blue wire to your one new sensor. no need for 2 sensors. The ECM reads the sensors seperate so you can trick the computer to think both sensors are connected by connecting both wires to the same sensor. At least that's what I've been told.I just conneted both my wires to the same sensor today and cleared the codes. So far so good.
Cool advice, by the way before you bypassed the sensors did your truck have a loud whirring noise & loss of power? On my hummer h2 this seems to be the issue & also when I hit the brake while the truck is parked the noise gets louder. Now it appears to be some oil leaking from front bumper on passenger side which I'm more concerned about now if that's what it is. I'm hoping it's just a busted hose or something simple. Not sure what it all means but hopefully I can make the fix. Any insight would be gladly appreciated thanks👍😁💪😎💪
@@J.Crooner that sounds like a power steering leak. And your getting air in the pump.
The breaks and steering systems both use the same vacuum assist on the pedal.
So when you step on it it increases the pressure in the pump making it “growl “ more.
Unfortionatly I can’t tell you how to fix it. As I have the same problem. And have been looking for a fix myself .
Turns out I had a rusted corroded power steering cooler that's where my leak was coming from. I simply took it off and bypassed it all together. I refilled the reservoir and it fixed the problem completely haven't had any trouble since it happened 💪😎💪👍😁👌
@@J.Crooner nice. Didn’t know they had a cooler. 🤔🤔🤔
Yes it looks like a small radiator that's mounted in front of the actual coolant radiator in front of the truck on the drivers side it sits at the top and is easy to access. My cooler was in such bad shape I had to cut it off where the hoses connect to it. The rust wouldn't allow me to simply unscrew the two hoses attached to it with a wrench. After I cut it off I went to Auto zone and bought a one foot of coolant hose for like two dollars and simply reconnected the hose lines I cut when taking the cooler off. I put two small clamps on it and it's ready now no problem at all.👍😎👌
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It is exactly what I was looking for.
Definitely worked on mine my knock sensors were rotted pretty much impossible to take out so I did this and it works fine
Thank you for watching! 👍
FOLLOWED your instructions took truck to emissions and it passed like a champ ,THANK you very much.This gives me time to do it right this next summer Again thank you merry christmas and happy new year...
You're welcome! Merry christmas and happy new year to you as well!!
I did this on my 03’ Silverado 6.0 on 4-12-19. Both my sensors are bad, so I was working on putting my 2nd sensor where you suggested with the temp sensor. Well, it’s a coolant sensor, so that didn’t work. I looked for a long while, and couldn’t find another spot, so I did what I really didn’t want to do, I put both wire feeds from the computer on to one sensor, by just using the older harness, and splicing them to 1 wire, and put the sensor on the passenger side of the motor. I know it’s more ideal to have 2 sensors, but my thought, is if you keep everything else working right, you shouldn’t have issues, and I am not. I have an idea for possibly getting a sensor on the other side, but I won’t be doing that anytime soon.
Could be worse you could be having to remove a SBC intake getting coolant everywhere. The new LS design is pretty much all good designs. Yes the knock sensors are buried on the the gen 3s but its not bad to get to them.
This is to all commentors. Any derogatory comments about my knowledge and skill as a mechanic wil not be tolerated. Any comments i find like the one Rick Williams Jr. Just posted will be removed and you will be muted. I will not tolerate that level of meanness.
You're doing a good thing, trying to help people. Thanks for the video. Fuc all the hater's.
Did you have to drill and tap or is it a plug????
Bud that’s not bypassed, it re-located.
I just changed mine...2001 Yukon 5.3...its not as hard as it looks.. watch a few videos if you have to,fix it correctly and be proud that you accomplished something
I know how to replace them properly. This video was for those who don't have the time to do it properly and wanted to eliminate the code....
@@matthewgreen8335 they put them in the center of the engine and under the intake so it can accurately detect engine pinging to adjust your timing...threading them into a random spot on the block will prevent that.. pinging is bad and you could ruin your engine(burning holes in piston) your relocated sensor will tell the computer that everything is fine as you pass a car on the highway pinging along stressing those poor pistons...and pissing out black smoke....not to mention,the knock sensor sticking out of the head is exposed to weather(the reason they fail is because water gets trapped around them and they rust out under the intake making them loose ground) and you could get a false positive due to background noise,pot holes,bumps in the road, vibration.. your idea might shut the light off,so you could sell it and shaft some one..but definitely does not fix the problem...
Well... Beings as it's been 4 years now since the mod and 180k miles later.... ( truck has 270k by the way...) and i have pulled transports with this truck (in the snow no less) i highly doubt the motor will go anytime soon. The "doomsday" scenario you speak of is caused by "hot rodding" and lack of maintenance. I have spent years finding how many ways once can adjust gm motors and still have them perform flawlessly.
Everyone has the right to do the repair their own way. Just as i have the right to post this video. If they wanted to do the repair right they wouldn't watch this.
I'll respectfully ask you to appreciate the video for what it's worth.
@@DailyDriverGarage dude if your car is in good shape it should never ping in the first place. they are fine being by passed or even tuned out . if your car pings you got an issue to start with
@@DailyDriverGarage GM ended up putting the knock sensors outside on the block below the exhaust manifolds on later models. Not on the heads, but outside in the weather. I get your point, but I'm faced with this issue and if I can figure where GM put them on the updated location, thats where they're going.
8/19/18 did this mod. Worked perfect!!!!
Great! Thanks for watching!
Update?
Great video bub absolutely love it something simple that blows my mind🤯
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
Like most other things in the auto industry.
If they make it harder for "THE DO IT YOURSELFER" /folks with less money. Then typically that person will either take it to a dealer or mechanic. If it goes back to the dealer then its a win/win for that business..
Did you mean win/lose? Dealer or Mechanic WINS/owner LOSES.
People please read the title of this video. This is a BYPASS!!! NOT A REPLACEMENT VIDEO!!!
American ingenuity!!!!!!! GM should hire you Sir instead of those so called engineers that came out with the stupid idea of installing the knock sensors under the intake for 99 thru 2007 gm trks. Thank you for your help, it really does work......
Thanks for watching!
Technically u should use the stock location however if you go to the 08+ years of the 6.0L you will see gm pulled their head out of their proverbial arse and located both knock sensors below the exhaust manifolds on each side respectively there is nothing wrong with doing this except if u have upper valve train rattle then it can and will cause an issue ... 01chevy2500hd6.0L86k both of mine are located in the updated position with no issues
What is the updated position ? And do you just splice extra wire in ?
This is a good secondary fix. Nice job
Bank 2 is the front sensor, bank 1 is closet to the firewall. I do like this set-,up.
It may keep the check engine light off,but the sensors need to be in the engine block, so they can actually detect knock, either in the original location or on the side of the block,while it is in the head it will never detect knock to correctly adjust timing as it should, sounds like a good idea to relocate the knock sensors,but they need to be mounted to the side of the block if they are to do the job they are intended to do,otherwise just have them tuned out by a tuner.
Tuners are expensive. While this method may not accurately record knock. It has given me no problems. And this is 2 yrs. And counting...
To each his own,but as far as putting it in the head ,I mean you could just put in on the firewall to keep the CEL off,wouldn't be much different as far as detecting knock,just saying.
@@trob7229 granted sir.
@@matthewgreen8335engine knocks/ detonation are at the piston, with it's piston to cylinder clearance and oil film AND the cylinder head. I believe the cylinder head is the best place with nothing to intefere the knock vibration to the knock sensor.
2001, just started acking up, did two into one wire, today, see if get gas mileage back up...thinking doing the same, might come up with rubber cover for all , more of Aircraft plug....
I tried this on 01 Tahoe it didn't work for me. I ended up splicing both sensor wires to the one sensor that worked. A former gm Tech told me it shouldn't have worked but it did.
Julio Gonzo it is possible you had a bad sensor. it took 3 sensors before the problem went away for me. Most of these repairs are trial and error anyway.
What an ingenious idea. Gonna try it out ..thanks bro.👍👍
Welcome
This worked perfectly - thanks for the video!!
Your very welcome!
I'll definitely keep this in mind if the problem ever happens to my Avalanche
pro trick: watch series at flixzone. I've been using them for watching lots of of movies lately.
@Danny Korbyn definitely, been using Flixzone for months myself :)
Great idea I just replaced my intake manifold gaskets on my 5.3 litre as they were leaking I was told to replace the knock sensors at the same time with genuine parts keep in mind there was nothing wrong with the old ones I also replaced the wiring harness did the silicone dam update the new gaskets fixed the problem but a week later thru a code for bank 1 knock sensor I refuse to tear it down again I going to do this great idea of your does it just screw in or did you have to tap it
So I busted a bolt off of my 6.2 the driver side knock sensor would it still work if I moved it 2" over to a threaded hole that's not used?
I gotta do my intake gasket my knock sensors are toast. So I'm going to do them. Just because I'll be there. But thanks for this info. The second time they go on me. I'll do it
Happy to have been of Service.
It is very easy to pull the intake
Not terrible but with this fix no need to and really it’s probably a better location for them anyways
The knock sensor on my 1992 4.3 is on the cylinder head between #3 and #5 sparkplugs.
So my knock sensor is causing me not to have any power at all it'll run fine sometimes then I'll lose power so if I do the bypassing will I get all my power back sir
I thought about this for a little while now. I figured keeping it away from the pulley system so it doesn't get false readings. Basically those are microphones for the computer to listen for pinging. If they are real close to the pulleys it might cause you to burn more gas. I thought about making a plate, one on both sides and mount them in the back of the motor. I'm just a shade tree mechanic so I don't know a whole lot. If any of ya'll want to add to my comment or call me a dumbass put it below. Need more ideas but he is on track I think.
Which sensor did you bypass in the video the front or back knock sensor? How well has it worked. May have to do this as i have a rusted snapped sensor in bank 2.
Bradley Hunt i bypassed the front knock sensor (bank1) but this can be done for either sensor. And since i did this a year ago i have had no codes pop up anymore.
The 1999 to early 2007 (Silverado classic trucks) 5.3l vortec and the 6.0l vortec engines the knock sensors were placed in the center under the intake in order. ( bank 1 in front bank 2 in the rear) for the modification i placed bank 1 sensor on the passenger cylinder head. If bank 2 sensor starts giving me trouble. I will install it on the driver side cylinder head.
Bank 1 should be closest to cylinder 1
Did the knock sensors work
👍😎Nice video, so with the relocation of the new sensors did you just leave the old ones in & just reroute the wires or you took out the old knock sensors?
Leave the old ones in and rerouted the wires. Thanks for watching!
👍😁👌Thanks for info I appreciate it, I have the 2005 H2 Hummer & hopefully this will fix the high pitch whirring noise I'm hearing. I'm concerned that for some reason the area near the front bumper on the passenger side of the truck appears to have leaked out some type oil residue if that's what it is but I checked the oil level & it's ok. Is there anything else on the front side bottom right corner of the engine that oil or some other type of fluid could be leaking? Any further insight to this issue would be greatly appreciated, thanks bud👍😎
Also when the truck is running in park sitting stationary if I apply the brakes the noise gets louder hopefully this can add further insight into what is actually going on👍😎
@@J.Crooner the wires should be under the intake hood. As to the leak... maybe a slight leak from the ac condenser? Hope this helps.
I replaced both mine with the harness ac delco everything and it says low voltage any ideas?
Could be something as simple as 1 or both sensors could be faulty right out of the box... not torqued right... or the wire harness is bad/not making good connections.
I would try re torking them... then for plan b try using old harness...
@@matthewgreen8335 thank you i will have to take it off again 🤦♂️ lol thanks yea I installed everything new due to old omes has so much corrosion and wire where toasted ...
If you replace them again take a look inside the holes the sensor goes in. If the top of the threaded hole is crusty, clean it up with a dremel tool with a small wire brush attachment. If the sensors don't make good clean contact you'll get error codes.
I just got the light low circuit bank 2 this is genuis way to bypass it i think ill order the harness and try this method. Thanks for thevideo
You're welcome. And the beauty is. It makes it easier to replace now. Lol
can you provide more in depth instructions or video of how to rewire the sensor, and where to run the wires to?
Thank you for this video.. I have a check engine light due to "knock sensor".
Very welcome
Will this work for a 4.8???
I believe so. 4.8s were virtually identical in design to a 5.3. Just simply a smaller displacement.
Awesome video did you use ac delco sensors?
Nah... just the master pro brand from my local oriley's...
I hear alot of the bought from part store or dealer are faulty might be why everyone has to do them 3 or 4 times
Is it working properly
Yes
@@matthewgreen8335 thank you so much
Hey this might sound dumb but I have a 03 tahoe that like sputters or surges when I hit the gas could it be from knock sensor and how can u tell if both are bad lol
If they were bad... you'd see a code for em... sounds like an ignition or fuelling issue in your case...
How did everything work after relocating the knock sensors? Are they still working good now?
Still runs good. And i haven't had a code thrown since...
Did this actually fix the problem? I'm having the same issue. Replaced them 2ce and the harness 2ce still getting the code.
Check your wiring tips the sensors and the other end. Could be broken or fried wire.
How is still working for you might give this a try!
Jake Stumbaugh its been almost a year since ive done this and the code has never come back. Besides if it ever does again, changing the sensor is a piece of cake!
Matthew Green I wonder if the sensor is reading right
Jake Stumbaugh i hope so! Just remember to tourque them to 15 ft-lbs. They wont seem to read right otherwise.
Matthew Green going to give it a try but for bank 2 sensor.
Jake Stumbaugh that is the beauty of it. That spot will work for either sensor. As long as you hook up the right wire lol!
Will a bad knock sensor cause my Tahoe to not shift into 3rd gear? It shifts perfect from 1st to 2nd it recently just did this the other night no problems at all before only code that came up with engine light was knock sensor
I've honestly never heard of that happening. As for the loss of 3rd gear... sounds like a solenoid in the transmission went out. All the knock sensor is responsible for is to control ignition timing.
Matthew Green I already replaced solenoids 1-2 and 2-3 I read in a forum where the knock sensor will affect transmission the ECU tells it to run in a more economic gear I’m replacing knock tomorrow wish me luck
Adrian Vargas did your transmisión shift smooth to 3 rd gear when you replaced your knock sensor ?
What year model was your Tahoe ?
Flush transmission and change filter but will only last a little while most likely mine lasted a year. Then lost everything but reverse
I tried this and I tried to take the temp sensor out like you mentioned and coolant came running out. So you definitely can't put it there. Lol
😂
I have my sensors on order to do the job. My question is there any reason that I can't mount both sensors on the front of the head on the left facing the motor? Do they have to be on different sides?
Typically you want them on each side so that you stand the best chance of picking up a "knock". If you mount both on one side you run the risk of the sensor missing a ping on the other side....
@@matthewgreen8335 thanks. I found a pre-tapped hole on the left side behind the battery jump junction. Should work I hope. Thanks again.
@@navycorpsman744 no problem.
hillbilly knock sensor replacement new title if works
Bwahahahaha thas funny right there...🤣🤣🤣
It works great too easy
I have a 99 silverado with a 5.3 but the engine looks a little different would this work??
Hugo Alday yes it should as long as you have a direct contact with the cylinder head or the engine block you should be good to go. For ease of accessibility i prefer the cylinder heads.
Matthew Green thank u bro
Hi Matthew. ...and I thought I had a genius idea. Looks like you beat me to it. When I had the code/light go on I bit the bullet and pulled the manifold to replace them along with a new harness. Two months later guess what? Yup, bank two is setting the ck engine light again!! Argh! I'm going with your method (should have done it in the first place). Thanks for showing that it WILL work. Question, did you have to drill and tap the head for the knock sensor threads?
Nope. Those are already pre tapped! That's the beauty of it all!
Lol
I put a 2003 2.2 in a 95 S10 and have no place to hook up the knock sensor can someone help me with this
Dennis Williams are you wanting to place the sensor? Or wire it up?
Where in the tranation did ya end up putting the second sensor at?
Second sensor is still in the stock location. It hasn't thrown a code so i haven't relocated it. Yet.....
I've got p0332 code for bank 2 only on my '99 with the 4.8 Vortec. Would this work? , and if so , where is the tab on the manifold to splice in for that sensor?
Sould be in the same location. GM loved to screw with things but they were consistent with engine design.
And yes this should work.
Gonna try it some time, nothing to lose since the motor has almost 300k and the truck only worth few thousand dollars. I stopped making shops rich off of my old trucks with other mods, still running strong. Yea no doubt GM was consistent bout not recognizing some simple engineering fixes.
I have bank 1 and bank 2 knock sensor codes after I replaced them. I think it’s from the rattle of the cat converter.
jamie patroni i kept getting the knock sensor codes myself until i relocated them. Try to buy the quality sensors like bwd or ac delco. The other brands were crap.
Matthew Green I will definitely try the relocation route as I’m not pulling the intake for a 4th time. As these trucks age the knock sensors start picking up noises from everywhere. Thanks
jamie patroni youre welcome. Be sure to tourque them to 15 ft-lbs otherwise the will read wrong. Ive learned that the hard way lol!!
Matthew Green that’s why mine don’t work I torqued them to tight,
jamie patroni yep they are very picky.
Will that work on a 4.8l ??
It should... yes.
You can buy a bypass harness as well for like 14 dollars
Anyone know which wire is bank 2?
Green wire
where did you put the second knock sensor
caleb patt The second knock sensor is still in the stock location. It hasn't thrown a code so i just left it where it was. Typically only one sensor throws a code. But if the second one throws a code i will install it on the driver side cylinder head.
Matthew Green could you callme im abot to do your fix and wanted to check with you first 940.600.9513 im in north texas
Don't do this.... just replace them very simple to do.
That kinda defeats the point of this video don't you think?
@@matthewgreen8335 Do you know the reason the knock sensors are there for?
@@rodneys9805 yes. I do. And the early vortec engines had them located on the outside of the block. So i fail to see how my putting them there would be any less effective.
Not simple to do its a pain in the ass and tedious. However idk what the one moved reads to come up with a conclusion if this is a valid repair. Back in the 80s they started with knock sensors but they were all mounted on the outside of the blocks but there wasn't a ECU like today to read values.
@@Boot_185 it seems to be working fine for me its been almost a year since I did the modification and it runs and drives just fine and hasn't thrown a code.
It would've been fixed the first time if you used GM parts
I have a much easier way. Just tie the signal wire in with the one that's working. Meaning you had the front one go badd that's the blue wire so cut the blue wire tie it in with the green wire everything is fine you're only running with 1 knock sensor then no check engine light thing runs great.
Also it's a good idea to discharge every module on the Chuck and have it re learn disconnect the battery and jump the positive and negative together walk away for 5 minutes or so when you hook everything backup the truck will stumble and re learn everything while its re learning run the shit out of it. This way the Knox sensors aren't mistaking normal engine wear noise for knock.
Resetting the modules A is a great idea for older vehicles anyway makes the computer re learn values from older sensors. Then it figures out how to run right offer those values which may be slightly different than a brand new sensor or when the sensor was put in.
Fixed mine today with the wire trick the thing runs better than it has also reset all modules.
Its not that bad of a job as some people make it out to be
Is it still working?
DMJ Reptiles yep still working.
Awesome, I am gonna go for it. I washed my motor and knock sensor went. So I want to just do it this way
DMJ Reptiles added benefit... sensor screws up its easy to change.
Not being derogatory but the proper fix takes an hour total with basic hand tools. Looks like you put in more time and effort for the " bypass". It's not the smartest design by gm but it's not rocket science either.
The bypass only took 15 minutes to complete. And after replacing it "properly" 5 times in a row. You reach a point where you say... "f it".
And 4.8
Agreed.
If the GM company would only hire some good ole country boys to design a truck! Why cant they make thing simple? My 6.0 vortec is giving me fits with that dang Knock sensor crap. and other horse dung with these Chevy trucks ! Anybody want to buy my Hummer? Call cowboy.
Old school is the good school. Lol
Don't, just please don't do this. Replace the sensors and harness once and don't hack your vehicle. All you need to do is to add some silicone around the caps to seal them off from any moisture and you're golden. This repair doesn't cost a hundred, so not sure how you can save hundreds either.
I've tried that. And it didn't work. This allows me to replace them at will. And i haven't had a problem for 2 years now.
wtf did he just say?read the freaking title...
My issue with the bank 2 and after swapping in new intake gaskets and knocks for the code to come back I said fuck it I’ll try this and it’s working so far
@@zakudog having the same issue in my dads tahoe. Im doing this
please tell me where you can get the knock sensors replaced for under 100$? the parts are that much? intake gaskets and labor way more than a 100
Bro I’m not even a mechanic, I RUclipsd how to replace them.. And it’s a very easy fix and it is not a pain in the ass to replace it’s an hour job maybe two if you want to take your time and be very careful etc.
Clearly you didn't read the title of the video. This is a bypass. NOT... i repeat... NOT a replacement. If i wanted to waste money on this truck then i would do so. Im not a mechanic myself. But i detest having to tear the intake off every time one sensor fails!! This way i don't have to.
It easy unless water gets in the pockets and rust the sensor to hell. Ask me how I know, please come over and yank this thing out. I've been a back yard mechanic for a long time.
Everything is easy when it's easy. When it's not it's a pain.
I give it 1000 miles at best then he will be pulling off the intake and swapping out the knock sensors.
Hate to burst your bubble bub. I haven't touched them since the modification... and that has been 100k miles and counting ago...
Now instead of making snide comments how bout you appreciate the fact that some modifications can work if you know what you are doing....
tryed it and code came right back on within 10 mins took me a hr to pull it and install with a battery operated ratchet, just fix it ....
Just take the damn intake off. It’s not that hard.
If i wanted to take the damn intake off i wouldn't have made this video... duh...
Great idea I just replaced my intake manifold gaskets on my 5.3 litre as they were leaking I was told to replace the knock sensors at the same time with genuine parts keep in mind there was nothing wrong with the old ones I also replaced the wiring harness did the silicone dam update the new gaskets fixed the problem but a week later thru a code for bank 1 knock sensor I refuse to tear it down again I going to do this great idea of your does it just screw in or did you have to tap it
It just screwed in. Be sure to torque it to 15 foot pounds.