4.8 5.3 6.0 knock sensor replacement GM
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- In this video, I show you how to replace the knock sensors in a 4.8,5.3,6.0 GM vortec V8. The knock sensors on this engine can be temperamental and often are a source of headaches for owners of this engine. Often it is a result of power washing the engine and water getting trapped down where the sensors are.
In this video I will show you step by step how to properly remove and replace the knock sensors. I also will cover some tips and info before starting the job, hopefully this will save you some time and money.
Please note:
once you are done, your check engine light may still be on. This is normal. After you drive around for so many miles and time, the computer will reset itself and the engine check light will turn off. Or, you need to get a scan tool and reset the codes that way.
Sometimes, with the battery disconnected while doing the job, if disconnect long enough, that may reset the check engine light as well.
however, if your check engine light is still on when your job is done do, not be alarmed.
Music: Noise Attack by Kevin Macleod. Royalty free commons license.
intro engine animation by Lee Eduard.
Great video. I had a mechanic change my sensors a year ago because my truck is lifted. Apparently they used aftermarket parts and both sensors are failing again. Using your video is a big help . No overpriced mechanic will be working on my truck again.
I am about to do this job on my Tahoe and before i even start i want to say thank you. Ive seen other videos where nothing is said about inch torque wrenches, or that there is a certain order to tighten the bolts on the intake when replacing it, or that you should seal the knock sensor harness with gasket seal. Seems very strange that this wouldnt be mentioned in any other videos. Thankfully you are here. I will comment again when i finish the job to let you know how it went.
Execution Tank
glad to help. Im not sure why other videos leave this out, its a known issue and process if researched. I learned through trial and error, and wanted to make sure others could do it right the first time. When I shot this video, it was the second time having to do it! I hope it goes well.
i know it is kind of randomly asking but does anyone know a good place to watch newly released movies online?
@Zachariah Kendrick ehh I watch on Flixportal. just search on google for it :) -brody
@Brody Dariel thanks, I went there and it seems to work =) I really appreciate it!
@Zachariah Kendrick No problem :)
Just did the knock sensors on my 04 2500 with the 6.0, your video was a HUGE help. Watched it many times to make myself feel a bit more comfortable doing it, and even had to bring it up a couple times while doing it. But thanks to your vid, it all went real smooth. One suggestion would be when cleaning around the intake ports, I used plastic razor blades instead of metal. Soft enough to not damage anything, but stiff enough they cleaned everything beautifully. Thanks again for your helpful video.
Great idea on the plastic razors! Glad it helped you out. I figured of I has to fix the truck, why not film and help others? ! Good job on taking the initiative.
I just did this job a little over a week ago, and thanks for the great video. There is one thing that no one else mentioned that could be helpfull though. Unless you have a scanner to clear the code, your ses light will still be on after the job and will stay on for upto about 100 miles until the ecm has realized that the condition no longer exists. Mine took about 5 days before it cleared itself, and has been fine since. So don't be alarmed when you spend the money and take the time for this job, you probably did it right, but the truck just doesnt know yet.
Brian Mitchell
thanks Brian, if you watch at the end of the video, I have captions that explain this.
Something to add to your already complete video. My rear sensor corroded and seperated from the housing while trying to remove. The only thing left was the shell that screws into the engine. To remove the housing I used JB quik on the same 22mm socket and fit it into the housing which is a perfect fit. Let it dry then put your socket wrench on the socket and back it out. Then I used a propane torch to take the JB weld off the socket. Just a friendly tip.
that's a great tip! thanks for sharing!
EGGINFOOLS nice tip. Thanks.
Excellent tip!
4 hours? well maybe if i really had a 22mm socket, didn't rip apart the rubber fitting(yeah, the one you said to be careful not to rip apart), didn't rip apart the other vacuum fitting, ran out of beer, etc. If you factor in the necessary 3 additional trips to the hardware store and 1 to the liquor store, this is at least a 6 hour job! seriously - great video. it was on the money and helped a lot. thanks!
lol!
that's great.
thanks buddy, I'm glad it helped.
I just replaced knock sensors with parts from eBay, and didnt look at the brand just the price. As a result the check engine light keeps coming on. So thank you for telling me that the sensors need to be OEM, I have to do the whole thing over, but at least I have a clue on what the issue may be. So again thank you for the hint!
At least you'll be familiar with your engine.
GM Dealer quoted just over $900 CAD for the job...i got the parts (oem sensors) for $260....hope it just takes an afternoon to complete...really well done "HOW TO" vid! thanks
You'll be good to go, good luck with your repair.
dialn911 took almost 9 hours due to being on driveway and it was cold, everything brittle/breakable so had to be super gentle with all the plastic bits (most of it). then it got dark and started snowing....grrrr. got er done been a month and so far so good no errors. Rear knock sensor was in a total bath of slimy water. ugh.
This video really help me a lot, I never done this kind of job before in my 2004 gmc yukon. The video is very clear in how to do
the job. Thank you.
Thanks for the video.I just replaced the knock sensors in my 2001 Chev Silverado. I wasn't aware of the 2 bulletins regarding the back piece of foam and the horseshoe sealant around the sensors. The only extra step I took was I removed the alternator which gave me extra room to remove the manifold. This job turned out to be easier than I expected. Thanks again!
glad it helped. Good job!
Ok thanks I have read that you needed to replace bolts every time you removed the manifold because the bolts stretched when tightening you just saved me 120. Dollars
They claim that, but unless the bolts are really worn out, it shouldn't be an issue.
I've reused my bolts several times with never a problem.
I've checked my fuel trim levels afterward as well, and have always been well within spec, showing that there is good vacuum pressure and no leakage.
Manifold pressure is always been good as well.
If you're unfamiliar, watch some RUclips videos on how to check long term and short term fuel trim, and you can learn more about finding vacuum leaks and how your engine overall is running.
The manual technically says to use new manifold gaskets every time as well, but that's not necessary either, unless your gaskets are in bad shape.
You are the man ! Your video seems so easy to do. Not so easy for a first timer. I'll be doing mine in about 1 week. I'll watch your great video again for extra tips along the way. Thanks again. Do some more vids....
Thank you... will do
You doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌
You teaching very good and very good teacher 👌👌👌👌👌
Thank you
Young man, thank you sooo much for taking all the time, effort, money, diagram pop ups, and everthying else you did to tremendously help me out! For sure, I got the fact that it's INCH pounds, lol, for the intake. thank you!
SQTierHog
no problem! I actually had just got out of the hospital the day before the video, so I was a bit under the weather. Im glad it has helped and you enjoyed it. It's comments like yours that make it worth the effort and motivate me to continue to make videos in the future.
based on your picture, if you're former LE, thank you for your service.
I'm retired LE myself.
Aww, Thank you so much. Sir, Yes, I'm retired. Posting my badge in honor of our Brothers/Sisters being murdered/injured. Thank you too!
Why oh why did I not listen to you on not buying the aftermarket sensors! Just ordered my 2nd set, listening to you this time OEM! I get to do this all again! But, awesome video man! Helped me big time!
Lol oh no!
Well... Guess I can't say I didn't warn you. At least now you'll know your engine pretty well.
Just finished my chevy 6.0 with help from your vid! Thanks for being so detailed and clear!
Just finished up with this job. Thanks so much for this video! Saved me lots of $$$!!! My rear sensor was a rusted piece of junk! Design Flaw!?
PS...I bought my 04 Silverado in 2011...The engine was pristine but I know in my heart that it had been pressure washed...If I can do it, YOU CAN DO IT!!! Let's stick it to the GM Service Department!!!
d33041
Hello,
thank you so much for the kind words. Yes, I think its a bit of a design flaw in a sense that we all have to be mindful of. DON'T PRESSURE WASH THE ENGINE!
When I took it to the local Mom and Pop Service Station, the guy who inspected my truck (after the check engine light had went out) told me if anything ever happened at my current job, that he would hire me on the spot for being able to do this project =) Then he said that he normally does it within two hours!!! ;) It took me two days!!! =)
My video would have had a lot more cussing!!! ~Regards...
Great video, it made it super easy to get this job done. The hardest part for me were the pesky fuel injection clips.
I'm glad it helped. It's always great getting a job done yourself.
Outstanding video. Probably the best organized and thorough video I've seen for this job.
thank you
1A auto has a great video on this too.
LOVED the VID. MY KNOCK SENSORS ON MY 5.3 LITRE ENGINE ON MY 01 TAHOE ARE BAD I'LL BE PERFORMING THIZ JOB REAL SOON I'LL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT GOES THANX . KEEP IT UP. AND 4 THE HATERZ THAT DIDN'T LIKE THE VIDEO.. IT'S ALL GOOD. YOU DO IT YOUR WAY AND THAT'S THAT. GET BACK AT YOU SOON BRO. 💛👍👊😎
thanks buddy, good luck with the project, hope it all goes well.
Thanks for the video. I am about to start with my 2005 chevy 6.0 litre. Best video I have seen.
Very thoroughly explained. Best video I've seen regarding this issue. You need a cam stand so do some time lapse. Good job, keep it up!
Good job, I really appreciate people helping people and making videos. I need to do this job asap, I got the codes today hopefully this weekend. Your video is very helpful and makes everything a lot easier. Thanks again.
no problem, good luck
You are a decent dude. Good video. Will be doing mine soon.
this is easy. even for a beginner. just take your time and use common sense. the fuel rail is the worst part imo. just because it's messy. any home mechanic should have access to a ft lb and in lb torque wrench. they are very valuable for many tasks. btw good video.
Gotta say , this video is excellent ,,, clear and comprehensive !! Thank you so !!!!
thank you
Thanks for a very detailed informative video. I'm sure this will helps a bunch of people as its sure helped me! Please keep them coming!
youre very welcome
Man, what a great video!! Thanks for sharing with us!! a lot of "handy" important warnings about aftermarket parts... !
Thank you
Best video on this procedure out there. Thank you
I agree, awesome video. I'll be referring back to it when I change mine out. Thank you
Glad To help
Very nice video, Thank you for sharing and showing how it's done. Very good information provided.
Good video, may want to remove throttle body studs with inverted torque socket for more clearance of manifold.
This video is very good. You should start making more videos like this
thank you. I have Chrons disease and have been in and out of the hospital. in fact, I had just got out of the hospital the day before I made this video.
when I'm doing better, if an opportunity presents itself to film and teach, I'll make another video.
I just did this job today. Thank you for the great informational video and the good advice on getting GM parts. Went without an issue. Again , thank you for the great information.
Thank you for the kind words.
Great video good information getting started on it today on my avalanche thanks
great video plan on doing this in spring, very helpful. thank you.
Great video on the knock sensor’s 👍
Thanks man for making a simple and very easy video man! We need more easier to understand videos like this one! Hope you still are pumping videos out!
no problem. thank you for the kind words.
I have been struggling with health problems, but hope to make more on the future.
Terrific video! This will save me a lot of trouble.
no problem buddy, glad I could help.
I'm hoping the wire for the bank 2 sensor got eaten by the same rat that ate the #4 cylinder injector harness. 😂 Thanks!!! At least I know where to look. Good video, very well explained!!
i did by myself following the instructions Thanks...
glad it helped, thanks.
thanks it was helpfull on my 2006 hummer h2
no problem,
glad it helped!
I replaced my knock sensors yesterday. Put it all back together. Started it up and sounded like it was getting enough fuel and it wanted to stall multiple times but it wouldn’t. Any ideas on what it could be.
thank you for your time and effort, it was very helpful
thank you
Great video dialn911! I am about to attempt this on my 04 Tahoe. I have also fallen victim to the cheap sensor swap on my 04 Tacoma....go OEM or pay the penalties of doing the job twice!!
Exactly!
jonathan schermerhorn what sensors did you use before the Oem part?
Damn I wish I would have seen this video before I change mine yesterday, my sensors are aftermarket and I'm getting a P0200 code now
Ah man...sorry. at least you'll really know your engine.
@@dialn911 I have a bigger problem now, the fuse for the number 2 injector keeps blowing, I wonder putting everything back together did I pinch the harness for the knock sencors
Sweet vid...about to do it this weekend, a bit scared but I'm sure I'll b alright....good job!!!!
Tony Gonzalez
Thanks!
You'll be fine, just follow the video and you'll be good.
Question, sorry I bought a torque wrench...120-960 inch pound range...Will this work or should I return it for something different...
AutoZone recommended it but I rather...ask u since you've done it...thx a million
Tony Gonzalez
That should work fine.
Should I still get a foot lbs one, sorry for the questions....
Is the 2015 6,0 engine the same as earlier years... would the knock sensor be in the same place
thanks , you saved me some headache
Glad to help!
Looking at a used truck owner has purchased the parts but it’s too big a pia for them. Bread and butter for me. Good deal too with only 116,000 on it 6.0 have the tools. Figured I’d have to yank the plenum
Nice job! I was wondering if the GM instructions told you to put the sealant around the lower section & if so was it to go all the way around. The only thing I could think is they want the cavity to vent for some reason but seems it would still leave a path for water especially if the lower part isn't sealed all around. Is it possible air in the cavity once heated could have enough force to pop the connector off without a vent??? Sweet mystery of life I guess. Cavities that trap water buried that deep & blind does seem like a bad idea indeed. Hope this go-round works better for you!
so far its been running flawless.
They tell you to do a semi circle and leave the lower part open so that water doesn't get trapped in the RTV ring.
excellent video thank you
Thanks for the info
I have a 05 5.3 it's a l33. I put knock sensors in it today and new intake gaskets. The S engine light is still on and it seems to stumble when idling and when idling down it stops at 1000bRPMs for a few seconds before idling on down. Do I have a leak? Any ideas?
Stephen Johnston
Hello,
this to me sounds like a vacuum leak or perhaps there is not a good seal on your head gasket.
Thanks for the video !! Awesome shit going to do mine as soon as I get the parts
good luck
My bank 1 knock sensor is throwing a code. What are the negative effects if I keep driving with a bad knock sensor? One site said no performance issues and another seemed to think it would cause air/fuel mixture problems. Thanks!
The computer can go into "limp mode" which will result in loss of power, pick up and even mpg. This is to protect the engine in case of a knock it cannot detect.
i have a 2003 gmc envoy and my knock sensors went out and i did the same thing u did went to autozone and bought aftermarket parts when i tried to take the old ones out bank 1 broke off on the belly off the motor i fix it and bank 2 came off with no problem new harness was put on as well after i was done 2 days later my light came back on for bank 2 sensor and my speedometer stop working and my motor knock for 10 sec after i start my car what can i do and how bad can this be for my motor please help.
this is the rigors at times of using generic parts. Sometimes you really do get what you pay for.... recommend going true OEM on this job.
How do they act with a bad knock sensor?
Thank you so much
I change my knock sensors on my Tahoe it was the ones on each side of the front tires that were bad not under the intake but the video is a great video
thank you
I guess I get to do this soon. my light keeps going on and off and code pops up when it does. I was hoping a fluke but guess not. Dang. Hate messing with the engine. I will say yours is the best one. Can I just disconnect or bypass this?
I don't recommend it, this is there to save your engine from potentially grenading.
great video, thanks for sharing your experience. I have a 2003 Suburban, getting the P0327 code too, indicating the Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Bank 1 or Single Sensor is acting up...I'm wondering if I just clear the code and continue driving, what effect will it have on the engine? It's running well, and I recently ( maybe a coincidence?) put in 89 Octane non-ethanol fuel, and then saw this check engine code...no pressure washing, and with over 220,000 miles on it, is it worth getting this done? Thanks in advance!
If you just clear it, it will go back to normal driving mode until the computer throws the code again, then it will go into safety limp mode to protect your engine in case of a knock. The risk of driving around by clearing it is that if the sensors are no good and you get a knock, you risk damaging the engine.
As far as if it's worth the fix?...absolutely.
thanks for the help this is a great video
thank you. glad it helped.
Does the in/pound torque wrench need to be 1/2" or 1/4" drive?
I believe its 1/2, however an adapter can be used so it doesn't matter.
I haven't had to do that before, so on this particular issue I don't know what to tell you. You'll have to do some research on that.
I'm gonna have to site you for excessive bill curling.
Hay, I have 2003 Chevy Tahoe with a V8 5.7 vortec in it. Will this be the same process?
Yep, same engine.
Also where did you get the Wireing harness?
Stephen Johnston
if I remember correctly, I purchased the harness from a seller on Ebay, otherwise you can get it from any GM dealership.
Thanks for the video. What was the problem. Whit the knock sensors?
Just went out.
To save some time and hassle you don't have to disconnect the throttle body, brake booster vacuum line, fuel rails or the fuel lines to do this job. Makes it a little easier but not necessary. Saves some time and the trouble that could result from removing fuel rails
Hi Fletcher. I know you posted this 3 years ago, but hoping you could elaborate. So are you saying you can leave all those things in place, not disconnect or remove, and still get the manifold out and do the job?
@@AGoodBuzz hey. It’s been a while since I did mine but I know I only disconnected the main fuel supply line and the intake from the TPS and the small plastic line that goes from the intake manifold to the valve cover. The only other thing that has to be disconnected are the wires; injectors and anything else that’ll hinder you from tipping the manifold out of the way. It doesn’t need to be completely removed to complete the job. The less you mess with the better in my mind especially as these trucks are going on 15 to 20 years old.
great vid thanks for sharing
Sorry for the late replys, i don't seem to get notified when people post.
dialn911 Hello, What size foot/ inch pound torque wrenches do I need for this job? i believe it is 1/4" for the inch pound, but what about the foot?
A Standard 3/8 should work fine.
dialn911 on 8:16, do you know what is the name or part number of the coolant hose?
I bent mine when I was re-asembling everything, now I need to go and buy a new one
Raul Ibarra
sorry, not without looking it up. The dealer would know for sure though.
+dialn911 Good vid.
Thanks for posting this. I had already purchased HQRP knock sensors before I saw this. I dont know anything about them I just bought them because $30 for both. Should I send them back and get ac delco?
I would, in my opinion its not worth the headache to save a few bucks when you have to tear down the engine halfway. Best place I have found for A/C Delco knock sensors is Amazon.
i replaced both knock sensors and the harness but when i turned it on the check engine light was still on does it time for engine to realize it fixed ,i notice your was still on do you have reset the light
Daniel Schantz
hello, yes, it will take time for the computer to notice and the light will turn off. Otherwise you can use a OBD tool to reset the light, which is what I did.
yeh i figured out why my light didnt go off pepboys gave me the wrong sensor so put back the one that was still good cause i replaced both . bank 2 didn't get water in it just bank 1 ,thanks a lot you saved a ton of money and learned how to take off my mantefold twice.
Daniel Schantz
No problem. Glad you figured it out.
Awesome video...
Thank you
So the inch pound torque wrench is for the intake manifold, what is the foot pound torque wrench for?
the sensors
What size torque wrench. 3/4 or 1/2 inch?
Also, is it 44 inch pounds 1st then 89 in pounds for the rest?
+Anthony Lombera
Either one will work, just make sure you have an adapter to get the right socket size you need.
With pounds, its always progressive, so lowest first, then higher the second time around.
I screwed up and put some cheap ones in my H2. A few days later the code came back. Now that you went ac delco, did you have any more issues?
Thanks for the Vid too!!
no, after going to AC Delco I have had zero problems. it's been a few years now.
Hi my name is Victor and I was wondering what kinda tool are you talking about when you said a fuel line removing tool,thanks
Hi Victor, it fits over the fuel line and helps you easily release the quick disconnect.
if you go to the auto store and tell them you need a fuel line removal tool, they can help you look up the right tool for your vehicle. They make plastic ones and metal ones, I recommend getting the metal one. They run between 7 and 10 dollars. It will make your life much easier. They will know exactly what you're talking about.
can the knock sensors fill with water and cause transmission problems if drowning in water
it shouldn't hurt your transmission per se, but what it can cause the engine to do, is the computer will go into limp mode to protect the engine because the knock sensor is no longer working properly.
This will protect your engine from over exerting itself in case a genuine knock is present. That causes the computer to put it limp mode, which then affects how much torque and horsepower your engine puts out and it feels like it's completely bogged down and not running right.
in reality, your transmission is okay, it's just greatly restricted by the computer.
awesome vid man.. this is exactly the same for the 4.8 right?
thank you. yes, same procedure
Why did the check engine light stayed on after cranking it up when you changed out the knock sensors
Because a code is still stored in the ECM.
You either have to reset it, which hadn't been done yet, or you have to drive for at least 20 miles for the ECM to re-learn and remove the code.
@@dialn911 oh ok I see now and this is my first time I just started on it and kinda ran in a unfamiliar situation it's the the plastic tubing where you disconnect the harness from the drive by wire throttle body that part goes way back to the fire wall can I just disconnect it from where there wiring harness is ontop of the throttle body ? I'm new to this she has 234000 miles on her but still runs strong other than them knocking sensors
@@johngray8395
Yep. Just disconnect it there.
@@dialn911 ok um are we talking about taking the screw off that fitting or it's a clip to take the tubing off I'm kinda afraid it'll break being having 234000 miles of original part
Its kind of late but the reason you do a half circle of silicone is in case water gets in there it has a place to go - and the clean side is towards the back because thats the way the motor is tilted - water will run out - most techs will also run a line of silicone from the right front of the half mooon to the left rear of the motor also so water doesnt drain into the second sensor
by the way - ive done a few of them and nice job on the video
Hey David,
Never thought about it, but that makes perfect sense in regards to the water having an exit. Thanks for the info.
Also,
thank you for the compliment, It was my first time doing a knock sensor replacement, but decided to film it and help others.
What was GM's effing rational for putting the sensors in this location? Was it 2 cents cheaper on the assembly line to do it this way?
Don't know, but I wish they would keep home mechanics in mind.
What problems were you having to know that the knock sensors were bad ? Thanks
No symptoms really, just kept throwing engine codes. Only real noticeable symptom was lack of pick up and power. Your ecm will go into limp mode.
Sure enough, the computer was right, they were bad.
About to do mine tomorrow. Do I have to do a relearn using a scanner after? No video shows that. I have a 2006 Tahoe. 5.3 ppv.
Nick Dial well thank you so much sir! My son and I are replacing o2 sensors and oil pressure sending unit (mine is stuck on 80), and exhaust manifold gasket today. Just got tps monitors checked yesterday. They are all good, but tire expert said engine light needs to be cleared after other work is done for ecm to relearn and pick them back up. Until then, it will display on message center that I need to check them. Just got a couple new tires, alignment and an upper and lower ball joint replaced yesterday as well. Rides much nicer now. Thanks again.
Nick Dial success! No relearn needed for knock sensor in the 06 Tahoe or for oil pressure sending unit. Will tackle o2s next.
do you have to let the silicone set befoe starting the truck?
*****
no
Good Job. Thank You.
Dicky Ball
Thank you
I wish people would stop saying “this is for 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0”. It is NOT. The 6.0 in my 2500 Hd 4x4 is different. Knock sensors aren’t even the same part number and the 6.0 doesn’t even have the knock sensors under the intake on that plate. Maybe the difference is the year, nine is a 2007.
This video will apply to 2007.5 classic not 2007.5-2013
I find it odd that anyone would thumbs down this video. Why?
+dialn911 I am not sure why? This was one of the better videos I've seen. You showed way more than any a1aauto video including diagrams and helpful information. I hope you have a TV show because your a natural.
+Johanan Gates
thank you sir. I appreciate that very much.
After seeing the video ( very good ) and after doing the job few weeks ago , my ppoint was that I did mention what NOT to do when performing this job !! Still I say that there is NO NEED to unplug the injectors and and disconnect the fuel line ! Simply remove the 4 bolts holding the rail and lift it up and hold it up the bungies cords or ...........plenty of space to work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Maaaaan why didnt you do a short video for us!!!!!!!
+Louis Brule
you're still on this?
give it a rest.
in the video, I say you can do it both ways, but I prefer to do it the correct way that GM suggests and remove the fuel rail.
yeah,.. I'm going to make a tutorial video on how to properly replace the knock sensors the right way, and your method entails holding up your manifold with bungee cords while you work?
lol, that would look real professional on video..
holding up your manifold with bungee cords so you can work i's nothing but cutting Corners.
Just do it the flipping right way that GM recommends.
I really don't know why you're so obsessed about making this point over and over and over again. Nobody here really cares.
do you have to get body throttle sensor reset after you install it
not sure on that.
Did you replaced the manifold bolts
No,
No need
I just want to know wheres the knock sensor in gmc sonoma 1992 .
Thanks brother !
sure.
Do you put anything on the sensor threads when replacing?
you could put some anti-seize lube but its not necessary. just make sure you dont over tighten them or they may throw false readings.
great video. I just subscribed !
I have the same problem , I changed out my knock sensors and wire harness , used ac delco products
when I started I had only 1 bank bad , not since I changed them it shows both banks bad now , why ?
I have volted everything and ohmed everything and everything seems to work fine , do you have any suggestions I might have missed that's causing my problems
dan blank
Just to be clear, you said you only had one bad sensor, and now you changed out both sensors and your wiring harness and used OEM parts, such as AC Delco sensors and a General Motors wire harness and now you're getting an error saying both sensors are bad?
the wire harness was dorman and sensors are acdelco , I ohmed the sensors with the new wire harness ,and they tested fine , and ac volts tested fine on new sensors and harness ,
you think the harness could be not letting enough volts through it ?
I also have took a hammer and tapped the block and I did get 4- to 7 volts from each sensor ,and that was hooked up on the end of the new harness
If you watch my video again, I'm not sure if you noticed in the video, but I explicitly stated to use only AC Delco sensors as well as an oem harness from the dealership.
On the video I state that I tried a Dorman harness and it didn't work, the harness still caused codes to be thrown. It wasn't until I got a General Motors harness that everything worked fine.
There was another viewer that tried to go with a Dorman harnesses and had the same problem.
I'm not sure why, but it seems the Doorman harness is inferior quality or simply is just not compatible to work properly.
I can't imagine myself as well as others here who have all experienced the same problem with that harness throwing codes are an unusual outcome, so I'm not sure why they keep selling the product in its current state.
All I can tell you is these vehicles do not like generic sensors and they sure as hell did not like the Dorman harness for the knock sensors.
It sucks, you'll definitely know how to tear your engine down after all this, but I'm willing to bet that if you get an OEM harness and connect it, as long as you're using AC Delco sensors, your problems will go away.
Please keep us up-to-date on here and let us know what happens.
ooh ok must have missed it , thanks for the tip , so is the wire harness ac delco or gm
what is oem for the truck ?but I did use ac delco sensors
Are the torque wrenches absolutely necessary or can the job be done without them?
dialn911
Ray Clark
Technically you could do it without, but the issue is that to maintain proper Manifold pressure, you need to tighten to specific LBS and sequence. Not doing it risk possible issues down the road as well as poor performance etc. Better to just do it the right way.....
Does the throttle body have to come off
right
are your knock sensors still holding up that you bought on amazon ? I see a lot of neg reviews about them.
Still running same ones
Still running the same AC Delcos from the video