Thank you for sharing this. I have been going through this nightmare for over a year. Weird thing is that both of my sensors have 100 hms +-, and both wires in my harness to ecm has about 4.8 hms. Have even tried a knock “tap” test and get about 10 mv on both. The contacts inside the ecm look factory new so not sure if the ecm is bad or not. My question to you is when you install the knock sensors on the side of the block, being so sensitive, can other noises such as light lifter ticks or anything else set off the sensors and throw a code? Thanks again for your help on this matter, greatly appreciated.
One more question. I think you said you used AC Delco sensors for the two installed on the side, correct?. Did they have a blue dot on them and have the part number engraved into the body of the sensor? Thanks again
Your welcome. Yeah it can be a nightmare sometimes dealing with codes like this. Mine was very similar as well. It all checked good except my sensors had varying resistance. After removing the intake twice I wasn't going to do it a third time until no more codes. As far as a lifter typical kinda noises like low oil probably not but if you got a lifter going bad maybe. If you remember the years prior they had the single knock sensor on the lower side of the block never had issues. This was just another bad design change placing the sensors were they are now in my opinion. All I can tell you for sure is what I did and that it worked for my truck. It has been almost two years and still no codes. Since it works just fine where they are at I am leaving them. I did go with the AC Delco sorry can't remember if they had a blue dot or any other markings. Remember just test different spots as long as one is on the right and one on the left. Also don't increase your wire length it will change your resistance and insulate your sensor wires from the exhaust heat. I hope it helps.
Hello excellent video… Your secondary wiring harness for the two external knock sensors you added. Is the secondary harness wired into the main knock sensor harness? You just tapped each wire?
Just hook the new knock sensor harness directly into the computer side harness. No tapping any wires. Just make sure to unwrap the knock sensor harness so you can run it where you need it.
What kind of knock sensors and harness did you install? I replaced the KS’ and harness in my 2005 4.8(it wasn’t setting a code but I had the intake manifold off and figured I’d change them while I was there) and then started getting KS codes. I thought I had purchased OEM sensors and harness from a seller on eBay but they were not. Chased my tail for a little and finally broke down and bought OEM parts from the dealer and it was fixed. I believe the OEM sensors have an ‘A’ stamped on the bottom. Forgot to mention all the readings were in spec but would still set a code.
I did the same. Bought a complete set off ebay they didn't work still set codes. I went through 5 sensors and three harnesses before I got a good set. The final were all oem AC Delco I believe.
@@stuntcountry8488 so after the eBay ones you bought all OEM stuff? I heard from a few people that GM had a run of bad KS. The final parts that fixed the code weren’t installed in the stock location though as per the video, right?
Yes technically but they are still in the engine block just in different places. I tested the sensitivity and they work just fine in their present location. I am no stranger in regards to Chevy. I worked as a Chevy mechanic for thirty years at numerous dealers and independent shops with engineers at the plants and have numerous credentials yada yada doesn't matter. For years all knock sensors where not under the intake and most newer are not either, they are on the side of the block where they belong. It was a bad design change by Chevy like a lot of Chevy designs they try to change.
Hi, Mine is the 6.0 so I had plenty of space and places. Remember it's just got to be one on the right and one on the left. Just need to find a different space. If you remember all the older models had the single knock sensor almost in the center of the right side of the block. You just need to find a spot and you should be good to go.
@stuntcountry8488 thanks for the reply ... yea I think it's because there a point bolted to the upper bolt the only available one is the on on the bottom I have one (ebay) bolted to the front by water pump but want to tuck them because some smog techs migth make a deal about them being by the exhaust .... I have seem some people use a male to female spacer to space it out a bit but my concern is the heat... where you have them at has better appearance and further away from the heat of the exhaust
I noticed the same thing you did with the ohm after couple sets of ebay ones and taking the intake manifold off 3 times .... there's also a difference in the voltage when u tap.on the engine from the ebay to oe so maybe the ecu isn't able to read the same as a oe
Facing the engine it is on the right side just about at the top on the backside at the firewall. There was an empty thread hole on my engine that I installed it in. All 8 cylinder engines should have it. Just like the ones I pointed out in the video. Hope that helps.
@@garyeager6460 Unfortunately I bought them first then figured it out about the resistance. I ended up buying 5 and couldn't return any. Take an ohm meter with you if you are going to buy them over the counter and see if you can check them why they watch. Just a thought.
Great! Gonna try it today.
A freekin' genius!
Thank you for sharing this. I have been going through this nightmare for over a year. Weird thing is that both of my sensors have 100 hms +-, and both wires in my harness to ecm has about 4.8 hms. Have even tried a knock “tap” test and get about 10 mv on both. The contacts inside the ecm look factory new so not sure if the ecm is bad or not.
My question to you is when you install the knock sensors on the side of the block, being so sensitive, can other noises such as light lifter ticks or anything else set off the sensors and throw a code?
Thanks again for your help on this matter, greatly appreciated.
May 13 2024 , is your Chevy or GMC still running good , with out engine light ? Also when you did this relocated , did you have to reprogram the ECM ?
One more question. I think you said you used AC Delco sensors for the two installed on the side, correct?. Did they have a blue dot on them and have the part number engraved into the body of the sensor?
Thanks again
Your welcome. Yeah it can be a nightmare sometimes dealing with codes like this. Mine was very similar as well. It all checked good except my sensors had varying resistance. After removing the intake twice I wasn't going to do it a third time until no more codes.
As far as a lifter typical kinda noises like low oil probably not but if you got a lifter going bad maybe. If you remember the years prior they had the single knock sensor on the lower side of the block never had issues. This was just another bad design change placing the sensors were they are now in my opinion.
All I can tell you for sure is what I did and that it worked for my truck. It has been almost two years and still no codes. Since it works just fine where they are at I am leaving them.
I did go with the AC Delco sorry can't remember if they had a blue dot or any other markings. Remember just test different spots as long as one is on the right and one on the left. Also don't increase your wire length it will change your resistance and insulate your sensor wires from the exhaust heat. I hope it helps.
Hello excellent video… Your secondary wiring harness for the two external knock sensors you added. Is the secondary harness wired into the main knock sensor harness? You just tapped each wire?
Just hook the new knock sensor harness directly into the computer side harness. No tapping any wires. Just make sure to unwrap the knock sensor harness so you can run it where you need it.
What kind of knock sensors and harness did you install? I replaced the KS’ and harness in my 2005 4.8(it wasn’t setting a code but I had the intake manifold off and figured I’d change them while I was there) and then started getting KS codes. I thought I had purchased OEM sensors and harness from a seller on eBay but they were not. Chased my tail for a little and finally broke down and bought OEM parts from the dealer and it was fixed. I believe the OEM sensors have an ‘A’ stamped on the bottom. Forgot to mention all the readings were in spec but would still set a code.
I did the same. Bought a complete set off ebay they didn't work still set codes. I went through 5 sensors and three harnesses before I got a good set. The final were all oem AC Delco I believe.
@@stuntcountry8488 so after the eBay ones you bought all OEM stuff? I heard from a few people that GM had a run of bad KS. The final parts that fixed the code weren’t installed in the stock location though as per the video, right?
Did you have symptoms like the truck stalling out? Mines throwing bad knock sensor code, replaced them like normal under intake and still stalling out
Hi
No symptoms just reoccurring codes.
So you pretty much desensitized the sensors by putting them on the outside of the block
Yes technically but they are still in the engine block just in different places. I tested the sensitivity and they work just fine in their present location. I am no stranger in regards to Chevy. I worked as a Chevy mechanic for thirty years at numerous dealers and independent shops with engineers at the plants and have numerous credentials yada yada doesn't matter. For years all knock sensors where not under the intake and most newer are not either, they are on the side of the block where they belong. It was a bad design change by Chevy like a lot of Chevy designs they try to change.
Can I remove the ones I have under the manifold & just put them on the side of the block?
You can. I just left my old ones underneath. I bought a new harness and two new sensors. Over a year and still no codes or issues.
@@stuntcountry8488 thanks ima try it out!
...go feed your rooster!
Idk how u cleared the one on the rigrh on the 5.3 there no space to even fit
Hi,
Mine is the 6.0 so I had plenty of space and places. Remember it's just got to be one on the right and one on the left. Just need to find a different space. If you remember all the older models had the single knock sensor almost in the center of the right side of the block. You just need to find a spot and you should be good to go.
@stuntcountry8488 thanks for the reply ... yea I think it's because there a point bolted to the upper bolt the only available one is the on on the bottom I have one (ebay) bolted to the front by water pump but want to tuck them because some smog techs migth make a deal about them being by the exhaust .... I have seem some people use a male to female spacer to space it out a bit but my concern is the heat... where you have them at has better appearance and further away from the heat of the exhaust
I noticed the same thing you did with the ohm after couple sets of ebay ones and taking the intake manifold off 3 times .... there's also a difference in the voltage when u tap.on the engine from the ebay to oe so maybe the ecu isn't able to read the same as a oe
So you connected four knock sensors or you eliminated the 2 in the center by not using them..just want to clarify
I only connected 2. 2 new sensors using a new wiring harness. I left the two sensors under the intake and the old wire harness.
@@stuntcountry8488 thank you
Exactly were is the back sensor mounted?
Facing the engine it is on the right side just about at the top on the backside at the firewall. There was an empty thread hole on my engine that I installed it in. All 8 cylinder engines should have it. Just like the ones I pointed out in the video. Hope that helps.
@stuntcountry8488 thank you, got to do something. Engine light comes on soon after I think I fix it. Going to try your fix.
@@garyeager6460 Make sure to check the resistance of your sensors and the harness. Mine are in the middle range of the specs.
@stuntcountry8488 how did you get two with Same resistance? Did you buy them. If they weren't what you wanted then returned them for new ones?
@@garyeager6460 Unfortunately I bought them first then figured it out about the resistance. I ended up buying 5 and couldn't return any. Take an ohm meter with you if you are going to buy them over the counter and see if you can check them why they watch. Just a thought.
What brand did you go with Aldalco or??
AC Delco