Sealing Stone Veneer
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2020
- Using Geocel 2315LRF (*see UPDATE below), applied with a brush, and Foundation Armor SX5000WB, applied with a pump sprayer, to seal stone veneer. Every couple of years, when there are a few consecutive days of really heavy rain, we have issues with water seeping through the stone veneer on the outside of our house. I've tried sealing with caulking and diverting water away from the stone with flashing, but nothing has stopped the leak. These 2 professional products are probably my best chance at fixing the leak. See the links below for the products I used:
UPDATE 4/19/2023: This solution worked for around 2.5 years but then we noticed a new water spot after days of heavy rain. I originally thought water was soaking through the stone, but it was actually getting behind the stone veneer because kickout flashing wasn't installed by the roofer. Geocel's plastic-like coating caused the water to become trapped. Since the water couldn't easily escape, small spots on the face of some of the cast concrete stones started to deteriorate. I think the Geocel would have worked well at keeping the water out but, since it was able to get in elsewhere, it ended up trapping moisture in the stone. The stone was removed to replace rotted sheathing, kickout flashing was installed, and new matching stone veneer was installed. I waterproofed the new stone with more Foundation Armor SX5000WB.
Geocel 2315LRF (1 gallon):
amzn.to/3k7ni51 (affiliate*)
Geocel 2315LRF (1 quart):
amzn.to/3452SUA (affiliate*)
Foundation Armor SX5000WB (1 gallon):
amzn.to/3k7nsJF (affiliate*)
Foundation Armor SX5000WB (5 gallon):
amzn.to/3s9BMF2 (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support! 
Хобби
Geocel 2315LRF (1 gallon):
amzn.to/3k7ni51 (affiliate*)
Geocel 2315LRF (1 quart):
amzn.to/3452SUA (affiliate*)
Foundation Armor SX5000WB (1 gallon):
amzn.to/3k7nsJF (affiliate*)
Foundation Armor SX5000WB (5 gallon):
amzn.to/3s9BMF2 (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
Looks like like for gallon of Foundation Armour no longer works and Geocel's are unavailable. Any other suggestions?
@@emberkrumwied2493 Thanks for letting me know about the links. You can still get the products locally from building supply stores. Not typically Lowes or Home Depot type stores but stores builders and roofers buy from. Or you can order them directly from the manufacturers' websites. The websites might also let you know who carries their products in your area.
The second product seems to be just what I am looking for to rejuvenate and protect my stone veneer wall exterior and keep the dirt and moisture away, right? This is going to be so important if I stain my cedar shingle siding because the dull stone wall won't look good with it.
The Foundation Armor will waterproof your stone wall and I would assume it would help to prevent moss growth but I'm not sure about dirt. The type I used doesn't change the texture or look of the stone at all, after it dries, it looks and feel the same as before. They also sell "wet look" sealers, if you'd prefer a bit of shine.
Damm niceee
Thanks for watching!
Dam left
Is it slippery when it dries? I’m thinking of using this on my front steps
The foundation Armor, the stuff I sprayed on, isn't slippery and would be good for steps. The Geocel, the stuff I brushed on, leaves a plastic-like coating so I think it might be slippery when wet, probably not good for steps.
I have a Marsh Isle Laylite stone on the exterior wall of the house, can please suggest the best sealer for it? I would really appreciate it. Thank you!
I'm not a pro but the Foundation Armor seals really well, lasts 7-10 years, and doesn't change the look of the stone at all.
So you used the Geocel in an area where you already had water coming in and then the FA everywhere else? I guess if I don’t want any change I. Look then FA is my only option.
Yep, that's exactly what I did. The FA might have worked perfectly fine everywhere but I wanted to use the Geocel in the wettest area. In hindsight, I didn't need to cover such a large area with the Geocel but it's hard to see from the ground anyway and I haven't had any leaks since. Thanks for watching!
How do u proof stone indoors can you show us some products please
If you needed to waterproof indoor stone, I guess you could use Foundation Armor SX5000 WB. Be sure to get the WB, which stands for Water Based, so you don't have to deal with the solvent fumes. Instead of spraying it on, like I did in the video, you could just brush it on with a foam brush.
@@Mikeattempts how long does that stay can it stay for about 4 years
@@phillrhymesofficial They claim it last 7-10 years outside so, if you put it on indoor stone, I assume it would last even longer.
How did it last so far.
I have a decorative sandstone corner peice high up and cant seem to stop water seeping in even after having it stripped and rebuilt..
It has been about 8 months and no more water seepage! Not only that but the Geocel, that I applied with a brush, has also prevented the moss growth in that shaded area below the gutter. I think either product would resolve your issue but the Foundation Armor won't change the appearance of the stone. Let me know how it goes!
@@Mikeattempts hi mike. Thankyou.
I mailed geocell and just got a very short reply saying they dont do a product for sandstone.
But their "proflex product clearly states stone cement brick or block surfaces on rooftop. And since the mortar will probably be the largest part of and stone roofing problem. Then how can sandstone be much different.
It might be worth a go and try it out.
I cant find the precise product you used. But this one looks similar and i can get it in the UK.
Thankyou again. Ill be sure to let you know.
www.repairingproducts.co.uk/product/pro-flex-multi-purpose-brushable-coating-sealant-1-litre-clear/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2tCGBhCLARIsABJGmZ5sD05Yh1130Fi9fKRebjmzRpIKc9H3vkHjPTh7U2EJa6ca4OCdKvkaAryHEALw_wcB
@@mrt5017 Thanks for the update! Yeah, I don't know why sandstone would be any different, I'd give it a try. There are links to both products in the video description but they are Amazon USA links. I looked on Geocel's UK website and they don't seem to have the 2315-LRF product, that I used, in the UK.
I have white rock walls, just basically painted sandstone... I have had my drywall bow and weaken. How long does it take to dry?
Luckily my drywall didn't seem to get wet, just the baseboard trim, so I'm not sure how long it would take to dry. If it were me, I'd get a fan blowing on the drywall seal your white rock walls as soon as they're dry on the outside. That will keep the drywall from getting any wetter. Then just keep the fan going and hopefully the interior wall will dry up and get firm again.
@@Mikeattempts unfortunately I had to pull the dry wall we had a flood in our home from the water shut off valve blowing... so, the floor company bumped this wall, and it just crumbled on them. So I have been check a lot of these walls and hoping everywhere isn’t bad, but this spot I put a water hose on it and it was pouring out. Though, it has a over hang of the roof, still water gets in. So I’m wonder all the best stuff at Lowe’s that will work for sure for a VERY LONG TIME.
In my opinion (and my roofer's) that Geocel 2315LRF I applied with a paint brush is your best bet but you can't get it from Lowes or Home Depot. You can order it from Amazon ( amzn.to/3k7ni51 ) or you could pick some up at your local building supply company. Just keep in mind, like in the video, it'll make that section of wall look glossy.
We need to seal our indoor stone veneer fireplace- could you brush on the second product?
Yeah, you could brush it on, a foam brush would probably work best.
Cindy, did you end up doing this? What did you use, and did it give your indoor fireplace stone a brighter or more rich look?
Was this a 2 step product or can I use the second application.?
I used two different products. They both have their place but, if I had to do it over again, I would probably only use the Foundation Armor (the one I applied with the pump sprayer).
The stone isn't your issue, you need a lead step soaker and cover flashing interlaced with the shingle 70-100mm up and chased into the stone veneer ending in the gutter, and stop using the interface with the roof and stone as a gutter that then tracks water down and onto the wall below.
I don't doubt that this part of the house was built incorrectly but it's been 5 months since this repair, we've had a TON of rain, and the leak seems to have completely stopped. Only time will tell.
No flashing
So which product would be better for sealing potential water leaks on stone veneer? I have some leak coming from what I believe is the stone veneer right at my iced over gutter right now that is allowing water in to my dining room ceiling. There's a bedroom above, so I don't believe it's roof related. The whole front of my house is stone veneer, so I'm unsure what product to use. Do I need a textured poly sealant to fill between the stone veneer first? Would the GEO2315 be more suitable even though it darkens and glosses over or will that require doing ALL the stone on the front of the house? Or will Foundation Armor seal that mortar well enough between the stone veneer to fix whatever leak is present?
I just want to start by saying that I'm no pro when it comes to this stuff but I would consider the products to be pro level. If you don't mind the the stone having a darker semi-gloss look then I'd go with the Geocel. If you don't want to change the look of your stone then the Foundation Armor is the way to go. Also, if you're doing the whole front of your house, Foundation Armor would be much easier to apply but the stone needs to be dry. Just be sure to work in small sections in order to soak the stone well without giving any spots time to dry. Does your veneer have grout lines like mine or is it dry stacked? If it's dry stacked, it'd be hard to get the Geocel in the deep cracks but you could easily spray the Foundation Armor in there. Overall, if applied thoroughly, I'd imagine the Geocel would be the best barrier because it's so thick. Having said that, and without knowing your exact situation, the Foundation Armor might be plenty of protection. That's why I used both, I assumed the water was coming through somewhere in the area where I used the Geocel but I also wanted to seal all of the stone without changing the appearance everywhere. I applied both products over 4 months ago, we've had a ton of rain since then with no more leaking. So, I think you can't lose with either one. Let me know what you end up choosing and how it works out.
@@Mikeattempts Great info! Thank you very much. If you don't mind, I've got a few more questions. To answer your question, Yes, the veneer is stacked which makes this application very difficult. I like the GEO product, but I agree it would be impossible to cover everything. I'd like to figure out a way to use GEO for the grout in the assumed leak areas.
My Questions... 1. Does the Foundation Armor truly dry the same after applying leaving the stone look the same? My veneer runs a good 20+ ft high so I likely can't get everything sealed vertically. If it looks the same, I'm less worried about not getting everything sealed high up. 2. How close do you have to be to the stone to apply Foundation? 3. How far will a 1-gallon or 5-gallon of Foundation Armor go on coverage from your experience? 4. How thick does Foundation need to be applied? 5. How different does the GEO section look vs the Foundation you applied? Thanks for all your help on this. Very much appreciated!
If it were me and I had dry stacked veneer, I'd skip the Geocel and only use the Foundation Armor (FA). I'll try to answer your questions the best I can. 1.) I don't have a side-by-side comparison for treated vs untreated but, as far as I can tell, the stone looks exactly the same as it did before. I know you have a lot of stone but, personally, I'd seal everything. 2.) With my veneer, I was only limited by how far the spray would reach. I had to keep the pressure high and adjust the nozzle to a stream to reach the peak of the roof. 3.) I used up the entire gallon on the area I sealed. I probably could have used less but I didn't see any reason to have any leftover. The FA website says a gallon will cover 175-250 square feet. 4.) The consistency of FA is almost like skim milk so as long as you fully wet each section before it dries, you're good to go. 5.) The Geocel vs the FA sections have a very different look, the best example is at 6:03 , the stones on the bottom and far left are coated with Geocel and the rest with FA. So, here's how I'd tackle your specific situation: I'd uses a sprayer, similar to mine, to get everything from the ground all the way up to about 6 feet up the wall. That way you'll be able to spray the stone straight-on to get all the way into the gaps. Then I'd get a smaller half-gallon sprayer, the kind without a hose, and use a ladder to apply it in small sections, from one side of the wall to the other. Then climb a little higher and repeat until you're all done. Yes, it'll take longer but that's the best way I can think to do it. If you decide to use Geocel or FA, please consider purchasing from the links in the description of my video. The price is the same but I get a small commission from Amazon for the referral. Here's the link for 5 gallons of FA: amzn.to/3s9BMF2 and the rest of links are in the description. Also, no matter what you end up choosing to do, please let me know how it went and if your leak was resolved. Thanks!
@@Mikeattempts Great info, again! I would agree that using Foundation seems like the best way to. Once all this snow and ice melts, I'll need to investigate what I believe are the few problem areas to see if perhaps another product would be beneficial to put in the mortar joints. Geocel 3900 seems like a potential option. I'm just worried the Foundation Armor won't completely fix and seal what I can't see. The stacked stone looks great but it's extremely difficult to figure out if there is a hole or two in the mortar behind the stacked veneer that waterproofing won't fix. From your video it appears where you were going overhead that you weren't concerned with the spray hitting the roof overhang/siding. Is that correct? I don't presume it would do anything detrimental other than waterproof that as well. I'm considering the 5gal just because if I'm going to go through all this trouble sealing the veneer, I might as well attempt to seal all the brick on the other 3 sides of the house too (although I haven't had any water issues to date that I know of). Few more questions... 1. Is there a specific temperature range that is best for application? 2. If I'm spraying overhead I'm sure to get drenched in the stuff if I'm on a ladder trying to spray up to 10ft away at the roof peak. 3. Was it noticeable at all once the product dried if you missed any areas when spraying? If it dries the same, how would you know?
My guess is that, if you spray the stone straight-on, it'll get all the way to the back. If there are issues in some of the joints, hopefully water wouldn't get that far in after applying FA, it would bead up and drip off rather that wicking deeper into the stone and cracks. I only protected the windows and siding, any overspray dried and didn't alter the look of the shingles or trim. 1.) I can't remember the exact details but the FA comes with instructions for application. 2.) Overspray will rain down on you but I would recommend that you work around chest-level, that way you can spray straight-on to get the best penetration into the dry-stacked gaps. So, to get to the top (I think you said 20'), you'd climb 20' up the ladder rather than climbing up 10' and spraying overhead at an angle. 3.) Once the FA is completely dry, if you spray it with water it won't look wet at all, it'll just bead up and roll off. Any places where the water soaks in and darkens the stone would be places that were missed.
Does this work on solid stone walls and foundations?
Yep, they'll seal any kind of stone or masonry.
@@Mikeattempts Thank you
That stone sitting on the roof is a major part of your problem
Yeah, the stone facade obviously wasn't installed properly. However, the sealers I used have done their job, I haven't had a leak since.
Just wondering on an update....How has it held up? any leaks? thanks
Both products are still working perfectly. No leaks and no more moss growth below the gutter. Thanks for watching!
@@Mikeattempts thanks for the vid. good to know
How does it affect the breathability of the wall or is thst not a design feature?
Is this good for veneer stone
Yes, both products will seal any type of masonry such as stone veneer, rock, concrete, and mortar. The Geocel is more for roof repair but it will seal anything.
@@Mikeattempts what should I apply to a marble wall? The customer wants me to clean it then apply something to make it look better. It is inside of a building entrance.
Thank you Mike.
@@LeoCampos2 I'm not a pro but I don't think polished marble is very porous at all. Anything you tried to spray on would just run right off and wouldn't soak in. I assume by "make it look better", the customer means shinier so maybe you could just use an electric buffer and apply some wax? Again, I'm just a regular home owner, not a pro, so this is just a guess on my part.
@@Mikeattempts the marble is not so smooth, not well polished and has some holes on it.
I believe using a buffer would get wax into the holes making it messi.
@@LeoCampos2 If it's not polished then maybe some high gloss sealer like this: www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-1-Gal-High-Gloss-Concrete-Sealer-8800-06/203604222
Any idea how to remove sealer from stone veneer? My dad screwed up by spraying Thompsons Sealer on the stone I just installed without cleaning off all the dirt and debris and it came out all streaky. It looks awful. Nothing is stripping the sealer off.
I'm definitely no pro but mineral spirits and a scrub brush might work. If not, there's a product called EC-1800 made by EcoChem that's supposed to remove Thompson's Water Seal from anything. If it's natural stone, you could also try an angle grinder with a strip disc (it's like an aggressive Scotch-Brite pad). However, if it's a manufactured veneer the strip disc would discolor the stone. Let me know what you come up with!
@@Mikeattempts thanks for the speedy reply. I’m trying the EC1800 and scrub brush then hosing it off. It’s doing something but not really well. I’ve gone over the wall 3 times already. I may need to get a pressure washer.
I’ll let you know if that works.
@@GrizzlyTank Sounds promising but slow. Any chance you could paint it on and let it soak in a bit before scrubbing or would it just run off?
@@Mikeattempts that’s what I did. I brushed it on, let it sit for about 15-20 minutes then scrubbed it vigorously before washing it off. I thought it was working fine, unfortunately now that it’s dry it appears that it did nothing at all, the streaks are still there and very noticeable.
I’m going to buy a pressure washer and report back.
@@GrizzlyTank Aww, that sucks! Hopefully the pressure washer will do the trick.
Now if you took PVA and mixed it 50/50 with water you would save yourself quite a few bucks...
Isn't PVA water soluble? If so, wouldn't it break down when it comes into contact with rain?
@@Mikeattempts Not once it's cured. It's the base in most water based sealants.
@@SynKronos Ah, gotcha, thanks for the tip!