There is such RUBBISH in this. This is more about how untrained/under skilled photographers can now make images. “Those photos would not have been possible in DSLR days”. Then how are they being taken now by DSLR users? You speak as if photography was like painting cave walls before Mirrorless. It wasn’t. Perhaps back off the hyperbole…
Yeh, everyone says that untill ... they finally bite the bullet and upgrade to a modern eye tracking camera. Very experienced and skilled togs use all the modern tools. The bar is raised. You will also need to upgrade to compete. Eg, dragonflys in flight is relatively easy now. 20 shot in camera focus stacks, all in 1 sec. I do this on my R5. See a bug, get the shot. I am currently shooting all sorts of action, sports, etc with a RF85mm f1.2 @ f1.2. Crispy sharp at f1.2, and dreamy oof bokeh. The look is lovely All this is the new tech. Upgrade mate.
I don't know if it has been your experience but it may be of benefit to some to share mine: the R5 with big glass (e.g. 500 f/4) uses a lot of battery cause motors have to move heavy glass longer distances compared to a 24-70 f/2.8. I am surprised by the difference. We are talking a couple of hours vs a couple of days.
That’s an interesting discovery and it makes a lot of sense. Since I don’t use 24-70 much because most of the time the wildlife are further away so I don’t have a direct comparison. The R5 also has a constant on autofocus option and it drains even more battery and I usually have it turn off.
@@TinManLee Yeah, I didn't mean to say using the 24-70 f/28 for wildlife. But in general if I am city touring and have it as my walk around lens I could get at least two sessions morning and evening from the same battery. And maybe there is some juice left for the next day. With the 500 f/4 and the R5 in wildlife, one battery is done in a single session and there isn't enough juice left for an evening session. I used a 300 f/2.8 with 2x and 1.4x and the 100-400 with 1.4x and on its own and the R5 battery lasted longer than with my 500 f/4. Of course these are subjective things and every session is different, moving subjects, closer/longer focusing, more/less use of stabilisation. But it is definitely something to keep in mind. I went and bought a third battery after using my 500 twice just to make sure I don't run out of batteries. Before I started using the 500 f/4, 2 batteries were plenty for a single outing. Now I carry a third to have a safety margin.
Great tips. Not all batteries are created equal. I have two for my G9, purchased at the same time (both Panasonic brand) and one of them spends a lot more time being recharged than the other. Neither has been run down to zero, so I"m planning on replacing the weaker one ASAP. Do you recall the ISO settings for your serval cat encounter?
Nice presentation and congratulations for the superb pictures, but...any modern DSLR will have Live-view, wich works, especially in dark conditions, exactly as for mirrorless, including contrast focus (as opposed to phase focus with DSLR, wich mirrorless can't do).
Hi - love your videos. I just purchased the sony xr10 for Kenya. Day 1 I took a great zoom photo of CN tower. Day 2 - most photos are blurry. Have not changed any settings??? Any suggestions?
Another useful video, thank you TML! In Nikon how to setup the focus area change to a customisable button is by buying an A1. Just a joke, Nikon shooters don't hate me for it! 😀
Awesome video Tin Man. To change AF box sizes quickly on my Z9 I set my camera up accordingly. Shutter half press 3D tracking. Rear Af button to wide area large. Toggle (to the left of Af button) single point (animal eye tracking disabled). DISP button set to C1 with its box set to the smallest possible size. Lastly I set Fn 1 to wide area small. Not the same as continually pushing the same button to get the size af box you want but extremely fast. Keep up the good work!
On my Canon R5 and R7 I use two buttons for back button focus, one for animal eye tracking, the other for spot. I always leave the spot in the center of the frame. This allows me to correct the camera if it happens to lose the eye or lock focus when the animal or bird is partially obscured and difficult to see.
You can set the recall shooting (hold) to something like FN1 and you can set one on your wide C1/C2 and select a smaller custom area AF box to the size you need/want. It's very simple. Then so you need to do is hit the FN1 button and you have box change size for you instantly
I have always used a center focus point. Half press to set my focus and exposure where wanted, then recompose slightly as needed. No errors from the camera misjudging what the subject is. I am in the habit of exposing to the left, not the right. If I end up with some clipped shadows it will look more appropriate than blown highlights. I keep my Exposure comp defaulted to minus /3 stop and adjust as needed.
To supplement Tip Number 6 (Batteries): I always keep a small, lightweight (150 g) powerbrick in my bag. I primarily use it to keep my phone charged but it has enough power (and the right voltage) to recharge my camera batteries more than twice in-camera. When I'm waiting for a particular shot for a long time and want to be sure I have a full battery when the action starts, it will keep my camera fully charged for hours
I have the back button on my Sony A1 set to manual/auto focus, which I use if I want to lock focus for if the AF is not catching on subject. I nearly always use photographing deer in forest, as focus often locks on twig in front of deer. Then when I manually focus camera magnifies 5x so I can get exact focus on subject. I sometimes also use this magnifying to make camera a spy scope to check out subject in distance
Eye tracking is the bane of the majority of my photography. I mainly shoot dance events/competitions. I forget to turn it off everytime I start at an event.
Great advise and insight to Mirrorless cameras, considering one myself. Love my DSLR but would love one in my tool box. You mentioned Noise. From my experience Photo Contests do not allow Topaz AI or any AI Noise Reduction, AI noise reduction is a true gamechanger for me. How do you deal with that rule in Photo Contests or have things changed?
I have the Canon R and R7. I upgraded to the R from the 5Dmk3, and I had 4 batteries for that camera. I'm so glad they all work with each other, now I have 6, although only the new 2 work with USB charging. I noticed the R7 uses batteries very quickly, so while it can record up to 6 hours of video, I don't think a battery can last that long. I always charge my extras up the day before, or the morning before I go anywhere. But yeah, it did take a while to get used to some of the differences, different settings that don't work the same, and how to use the screen. Of course when the R came out, being the first Canon mirrorless at that level, it had a lot of firmware glitches, and issues with focusing on other lenses that weren't the kit lens. Now that I'm used to it, updated it, and have my lenses in order, it's great and way better than the 5D series.
I have always used a center focus point. Half press to set my focus and exposure where wanted, then recompose slightly as needed. No errors from the camera misjudging what the subject is. I am in the habit of exposing to the left, not the right. If I end up with some clipped shadows it will look more appropriate than blown highlights. I keep my Exposure comp defaulted to minus /3 stop and adjust as needed. Using Olympus Micro 4/3 if that means anything, but I did it this way when I used a Canon APS-C as well.
Literally the only thing that was related to the title (things mirrorless can do, and tips for sharp photos) was the thing about Eye AF. The others were just general things applicable to all cameras and self-promotion.
Feel free to check out my course "Sharp Winning Photos 2.0" with bonus on my Mirrorless Course ► tinmanclass.com/swp2yt1
There is such RUBBISH in this. This is more about how untrained/under skilled photographers can now make images. “Those photos would not have been possible in DSLR days”. Then how are they being taken now by DSLR users? You speak as if photography was like painting cave walls before Mirrorless. It wasn’t. Perhaps back off the hyperbole…
Yeh, everyone says that untill ... they finally bite the bullet and upgrade to a modern eye tracking camera.
Very experienced and skilled togs use all the modern tools. The bar is raised. You will also need to upgrade to compete.
Eg, dragonflys in flight is relatively easy now.
20 shot in camera focus stacks, all in 1 sec. I do this on my R5. See a bug, get the shot.
I am currently shooting all sorts of action, sports, etc with a RF85mm f1.2 @ f1.2. Crispy sharp at f1.2, and dreamy oof bokeh. The look is lovely
All this is the new tech. Upgrade mate.
@@nordic5490 “everyone”? The hyperbole rolls on. How on earth were any decent images taken before mirrorless? Just verbal clickbait…
I don't know if it has been your experience but it may be of benefit to some to share mine: the R5 with big glass (e.g. 500 f/4) uses a lot of battery cause motors have to move heavy glass longer distances compared to a 24-70 f/2.8. I am surprised by the difference. We are talking a couple of hours vs a couple of days.
That’s an interesting discovery and it makes a lot of sense. Since I don’t use 24-70 much because most of the time the wildlife are further away so I don’t have a direct comparison. The R5 also has a constant on autofocus option and it drains even more battery and I usually have it turn off.
@@TinManLee Yeah, I didn't mean to say using the 24-70 f/28 for wildlife. But in general if I am city touring and have it as my walk around lens I could get at least two sessions morning and evening from the same battery. And maybe there is some juice left for the next day. With the 500 f/4 and the R5 in wildlife, one battery is done in a single session and there isn't enough juice left for an evening session. I used a 300 f/2.8 with 2x and 1.4x and the 100-400 with 1.4x and on its own and the R5 battery lasted longer than with my 500 f/4. Of course these are subjective things and every session is different, moving subjects, closer/longer focusing, more/less use of stabilisation. But it is definitely something to keep in mind. I went and bought a third battery after using my 500 twice just to make sure I don't run out of batteries. Before I started using the 500 f/4, 2 batteries were plenty for a single outing. Now I carry a third to have a safety margin.
Great tips. Not all batteries are created equal. I have two for my G9, purchased at the same time (both Panasonic brand) and one of them spends a lot more time being recharged than the other. Neither has been run down to zero, so I"m planning on replacing the weaker one ASAP. Do you recall the ISO settings for your serval cat encounter?
do you have a video that talks more about eye tracking on the canon (r5). I'm intrigued but not sure I"m using it correctly
Great video!!!
Nice presentation and congratulations for the superb pictures, but...any modern DSLR will have Live-view, wich works, especially in dark conditions, exactly as for mirrorless, including contrast focus (as opposed to phase focus with DSLR, wich mirrorless can't do).
Could you post a video onhow to shoot sharp photos using Sony RX10iv?
Does the camera have a fixed lens or its interchangeable lens system? I’ve used both kinds before.
Hi - love your videos. I just purchased the sony xr10 for Kenya. Day 1 I took a great zoom photo of CN tower. Day 2 - most photos are blurry. Have not changed any settings??? Any suggestions?
Another useful video, thank you TML! In Nikon how to setup the focus area change to a customisable button is by buying an A1. Just a joke, Nikon shooters don't hate me for it! 😀
Awesome video Tin Man. To change AF box sizes quickly on my Z9 I set my camera up accordingly. Shutter half press 3D tracking. Rear Af button to wide area large. Toggle (to the left of Af button) single point (animal eye tracking disabled). DISP button set to C1 with its box set to the smallest possible size. Lastly I set Fn 1 to wide area small. Not the same as continually pushing the same button to get the size af box you want but extremely fast. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the expert tips. Will give it a try. So many new features! Life is good.
Bull. People have been taking excellent photos with film and a dslr.
On my Canon R5 and R7 I use two buttons for back button focus, one for animal eye tracking, the other for spot. I always leave the spot in the center of the frame. This allows me to correct the camera if it happens to lose the eye or lock focus when the animal or bird is partially obscured and difficult to see.
You can set the recall shooting (hold) to something like FN1 and you can set one on your wide C1/C2 and select a smaller custom area AF box to the size you need/want. It's very simple. Then so you need to do is hit the FN1 button and you have box change size for you instantly
Big thanks. Will give it a try and report back
I have always used a center focus point. Half press to set my focus and exposure where wanted, then recompose slightly as needed. No errors from the camera misjudging what the subject is. I am in the habit of exposing to the left, not the right. If I end up with some clipped shadows it will look more appropriate than blown highlights. I keep my Exposure comp defaulted to minus /3 stop and adjust as needed.
LMAO....not even gonna watch. Just wanted to say....typical fanboy talk. Your mirrorless is not the Bee's knees sorry to say!
Love your photos would you recommend the sony 1.4 teleconverter with the a9ii and 200-600 g lens?
To supplement Tip Number 6 (Batteries): I always keep a small, lightweight (150 g) powerbrick in my bag. I primarily use it to keep my phone charged but it has enough power (and the right voltage) to recharge my camera batteries more than twice in-camera. When I'm waiting for a particular shot for a long time and want to be sure I have a full battery when the action starts, it will keep my camera fully charged for hours
I have the back button on my Sony A1 set to manual/auto focus, which I use if I want to lock focus for if the AF is not catching on subject. I nearly always use photographing deer in forest, as focus often locks on twig in front of deer. Then when I manually focus camera magnifies 5x so I can get exact focus on subject. I sometimes also use this magnifying to make camera a spy scope to check out subject in distance
Eye tracking is the bane of the majority of my photography. I mainly shoot dance events/competitions. I forget to turn it off everytime I start at an event.
my z9 has so much noise even at lower ISO. most photo are useless.
Great advise and insight to Mirrorless cameras, considering one myself. Love my DSLR but would love one in my tool box. You mentioned Noise. From my experience Photo Contests do not allow Topaz AI or any AI Noise Reduction, AI noise reduction is a true gamechanger for me. How do you deal with that rule in Photo Contests or have things changed?
I have the Canon R and R7. I upgraded to the R from the 5Dmk3, and I had 4 batteries for that camera. I'm so glad they all work with each other, now I have 6, although only the new 2 work with USB charging. I noticed the R7 uses batteries very quickly, so while it can record up to 6 hours of video, I don't think a battery can last that long. I always charge my extras up the day before, or the morning before I go anywhere. But yeah, it did take a while to get used to some of the differences, different settings that don't work the same, and how to use the screen. Of course when the R came out, being the first Canon mirrorless at that level, it had a lot of firmware glitches, and issues with focusing on other lenses that weren't the kit lens. Now that I'm used to it, updated it, and have my lenses in order, it's great and way better than the 5D series.
Awesome and very engaging to see the whole video explanation your hard work put up.
I have always used a center focus point. Half press to set my focus and exposure where wanted, then recompose slightly as needed. No errors from the camera misjudging what the subject is. I am in the habit of exposing to the left, not the right. If I end up with some clipped shadows it will look more appropriate than blown highlights. I keep my Exposure comp defaulted to minus /3 stop and adjust as needed. Using Olympus Micro 4/3 if that means anything, but I did it this way when I used a Canon APS-C as well.
Please add chapters for the video, thanks!
Brilliant mate. I loved the tip about splitting focus between back button and front button.
Thank you another great info. Video. 📸👏👏
Mirrorless salesmen lee 😌
Wow, great job Tim. Keep up the good work! 🤝
Tin man, thank you!! I follow you all the time.
Great video brother thanks
Great job again
Fantastic 🎉❤
Literally the only thing that was related to the title (things mirrorless can do, and tips for sharp photos) was the thing about Eye AF. The others were just general things applicable to all cameras and self-promotion.
Please make more of these! ❤