I caught onto your sailing channel for it's practicality and good sense. Seeing Mirrool on the hard getting such a fantastic refit has been a joy. She always presented as a good boat, I think you've raised her to a gem. I look forward to the sailing.
As one of the current 426 Patreon members supporting the effort to bring these videos to now more than 100k RUclips subscribers, I would like to think that another 175 supporters can be found to bring Mirrool, Troy and Pascale to the goal line of 600 in the attempt to bring ship and crew ultimately international to continue this adventure well into the future. It’s been a great journey so far and glad to see my investment turn to gold under the Mast so to speak. let’s see it continue!
I loved the "editor breaks the fifth wall, this narrative makes no sense, here's a fix" moment. You both are doing a great job, and I am getting lots of good ideas. ETA: Is that a Australia Colonial sovereign? Nice to have that under your mast.
Thanks for the comprehensive video. I, too, will be doing dyneema rigging on a 82 Moody 36s project whenever I get to see my boat again. It’s sitting in NY State, just across the border but it’s closed. I need to acquire these low friction rings.
I realize the amount of time and effort that you take to make the videos. This was a really good one. Even the aspects you didn't describe with words I could see about the dyneema rigging details. Thank you.🌻
Troy, those screws aren't Allen heads (those are hex instead of square)... they are pan headed Robertson screws. Robertson (a Canadian) designed them for the original assembly lines at Ford & GM a century ago as the machines could put them on unaided and they would take much more torque than the original slot screws of the time. He was outbid by an American who designed the Phillips (star) screw and the two ended up in a heated battle for marketshare which Robertson lost much to the angst of many of us who have found that rusty Phillips head screws are nearly impossible to get out without impact drivers. With all screws, it is super important to use the correct size driver as even slot screws can be removed very well if nobody has buggered up the edges by using a screwdriver that is too small.
Because most people don't understand how to use it correctly, they rush into using it and then they have problems. Then they get angry because they can't get shroud tension and they remove everything, go back to wire and then claim it was it was a waste of money.
Really enjoying the dyneema aspects. A material I have not used but is progressive. Go and look at the rigging on Matilda, which sits in dry dock at Constitution Dock in Hobart. Whipped with tarred twine the old way. I assisted Allister Martin to re rig Matilda in around the late 70s at Woodbridge. The rigging you will see is ours. Its not pretty but we raced her locally with that rig. I was probably about 13 years old. First time that I wire spliced. I think the dead eyes have been removed since, sadly. Well, the dyneema looks heaps easier but on the same concept of dead eyes. Good work.
Pete the Rigger, traditional swashbuckler with new tech. True craftsman, understands the physical properties of every component and how to use those properties to best advantage. He has provided you two with am incredible education in self sufficiency. Thanks so much for documenting every step of this process... your video production & editing process has matured to full-pro.
She’s looking good. You guy are really knocking it out of the park. Indeed, if the coin is gold, I’ll bet it will be at least 3x today’s value in 3 years. Did you look up the value after stepping the mast? 😂😂👍👍✌️✌️
As a coin collector I was like, "that is a nice gold sovereign, you can't put that under a mast!", and then I thought "what a cool coin to have under your mast!"
"We don't want to subject you to lots and lots of sanding footage." Sacrilege, it's called "Glorious, Glorious, Sanding". Just ask Mads from Sail Life.
I never got tired to see you working as you do with the Mirrol. Hard work, but very wised and clearely simple decisions to make sure that you wont need to refit in the next few years. Good team!!! Thank you for chairing your experiences. Un grand salut !!
Good old Lanoline, straight off the sheep's back so it is natural and environmentally friendly. However would a Teflon lubricant not do a better job on the shackles Troy? (Manufacturer deliberately omitted) Severe Service Grease with Teflon® fluoropolymer is an industrial grade grease formulated for maximum water repellency and boundary lubrication protection. This grease provides lubricity, thermal stability (-40ºF to 350ºF), and rust and corrosion protection, especially in salt water and high moisture applications.
I must admit, I didn't give Dyneema a second thought....until this latest refit. I hope it proves out to more than equal your faith in it. Gee....102,000 subs....you two are doing things that make people satisfied!!
Interesting re dyneema rigging. A racing boat I used to crew changed to this, and they were surprised how much creep (meaning elongation) the material had. Hopefully you have ample room for those pulleys to tighten. Great work both of you! Wish I had time to put my boat through similar refit!
Nice to see you put the coin back 🤗...Did the same here in France when I rebuilt my cottage and found a silver piece in mint condition in a mètre thick wall dated 1787. Way back then somebody thought of us here today 🤔!.....Marrool, keep them safe!
I just LOVE your video series and this episode is among the very best. Charm + information + sense of humor = WIN. I am a boatbuilder of 50 years' standing (with reputation to match) and have a couple of observations (not nitpicking, just thinking): Stainless-steel 1x19 wire rope has been around for generations. It was on your boat in 1969. Dyneema is wonderful for high-perf applications and especially anything that might need to be sliced away in an emergency (vis. lifelines when retrieving MOB). But it is fatally vulnerable to any accidental contact with an open blade or to mild/consistent abrasion in general. I've used it for spinnaker halyards, etc. but I'd NEVER use it as for primary standing rigging. I'd prefer to not use it for lifelines either. And nothing's nicer than being able to re-tune the rig using bottle screws - I even made a tool for it. I like your addition of an inner forestay. I did the same thing :) That little inner jib is the best sail on the boat. HDPE doesn't - in theory - stick to anything like fiberglass, epoxy, 5200, etc. How to you retain it without admitting water between it and what it's supposed to be adhering to? I've used PVC (a great friend of 5200) for similar applications many times. PVC when scuffed-up by sandpaper and softened with acetone works very well with epoxy. I have that ubiquitous 1970s black-aluminum toerail through which I drilled additional hardware like running-backstay U-bolts - I'm not sure I would trust the coaming for anything like that. You waxed the deck plate for the fuel fill - but then how did you clean it off to accept sealant to keep out the water? Most of these SS fittings are made with gaps to accept a (fat) bead of sealant (which should only ever be polyurethane compound). My practice is to cut it out a little oversize (vis. 51-mm hole saw for 50-mm fitting) and to flood the gap with 5200. I've never seen this fail. I love all your raised deck bolsters for hardware-attachment points - but did you allow for the passage of water along the bulwark? Any stoppage of the flow could lead to a standing pool uphill, which would pass only when it rises above the level of the raised bolster - which negates the benefit of raising the fitting base. In general West System 410 Microlight is not intended for immersion areas (hull and especially below the waterline). I used it extensively all over my deck. This includes all the damage repairs, the hardware-base pads like you made, and a lot of custom stuff like the sides of the mast step and new/upgraded radii of fillets, like the ones you made around the dodger. It's wonderful for sculpting by hand and yields a very 'factory' appearance. But for all topsides fairing I used microfibers. I faired the whole hull using a soft pad on a 6" dual-action sander following Dry Guide fairing dust. It was a simple matter to cut it with 180 and 220 grit and the boat is fairer now than when it left the factory in 1974! Also - I have painted epoxy/Microlifght blends with Brightside and even enamel many times. No problems after the first coat or two. I admire all the work you did to that poor cockpit and totally sympathize with the level of labor that entailed. Been there; done that! Keep up this beautifully soulful project you've been undertaking and do be safe and happy in all your adventures!
An amazing and well thought out refit and the documented reasoning for wach step will im sure become a guide to many tackling this type of project. You have both put so much effort and info out there and i salute you. Hope you get many many hours of enjoyment as a reward for this by sailing stress free as a result of doing things right the first time during refit.
Excellent workmanship and the rigg looks fantastic interested to see how the tuning of the rigg goes when its all done settling into place and when she goes to sea trials.
First of all, congrats from across the ditch on getting to 100k subscribers. Well done. I guess it's because of your personalities. You always look happy. Also, it's the way you present each episode. I mean you could talk about the inside of an egg shell and still not bore us. I guess we're all looking forward to "splash" day. So this subber will be with you, for a long time yet. Take care. Atb for 2021.
2 inch Dyneema is what we used on the riverboats to secure the tow to the barges which are 300 yards long on average. And sometimes two up to 14 of the barges at a time. Those barges being full of everything from oil to acetone. How many thousands of tons would that be. If we hit a sand bar or the pilot would make a wrong move (like steering to hard in one direction) the cables would snap like thread and cut anything in it's way in half. Not the dyneema it did not spring back when it broke it just lay down. I could see where on a boat it would be so much stronger and safer. Thank the two of you for such excellent, quality, and educational, videos. Also thank you for your lack of T&A and nudity in order to get more views and subs. Chief
I love how much work you guys have done with Mirrool. I always like to see stuff done correctly and I hate watching someone do like 80% of the project without going all the way. You guys really went to the 110% and that's super satisfying for me to watch. Can't wait to see you guys enjoy all the blood, sweat and swearing 🤔 that goes into a project of this size.
I’m curious how much you have to adjust you standing rigging with the change in temperature. I was going to change to dynema, but wanted to wait to see about temperature issues.
This also is my concern for our climate in New Zealand, on a cold morning not being able to sail until the rig goes tight again. But I haven't seen it first hand so interested in first hand knowledge 🤔
I am a big fan of LanoCote grease, which is the brand here in the States. It smells quite like sheep, which is a good thing in my opinion. I rarely use tefgel for anything. Lanolin grease is good for most things, that or locktite which isolates as well as locks, like you mentioned in the video. I've mostly given up drilling and tapping the mast for stainless fasteners. I just use aluminum rivits for things that don't need to support much weight like steaming lights. Sure, in order to remove them they need to be drilled but so often is the case that stainless bolts are messed up bad enough to need drilling anyhow. Often they will never need fo be removed again anyhow. If I need more strength than an aluminum rivet will offer I will upgrade the rivet to monel. Pricey, but stronger than even a stainless fastener tapped into the thin mast extrusion.
Geez she's gonna be a schmick boat. Troy, what did you use to make the holes for the running back stay chain plate? I'm tipping it wasn't a twist or spade bit lol. cheers.
What I was told, was the USA has stricter regulations on anything related to hoisting, compared to other countries. (Not throwing shade, many many other countries do many many things better than us, lol.) so sailboat rigging falls under that. I'm sure it was done as some sort of regulatory capture, not cause our government cares way way more about riggers safety than other governments do, hah.
Mirrool is looking completely different to the boat I saw in Carnarvon such a long time ago, a job well done!. Can you p,ease tell me which episode you did the tour of the barge that you used to work on ?. I’ve had a look and can’t seem to find it. I’m living on TI these days and can’t wait to get my boat over here!.
maybe i missed it in the video. but: what weight/diameter dyneema did you use? what was your torque specs (at what frequency did you tighten it and the progressive tension (lbs) of tension and of course the final tension). where did you measure the tension at? and how much does that (the testing point) matter? instead of measuring the tension did you tune it like a guitar and confirm with line of sight up the mast insuring it was true? would that tension vary based on mast size which of course could change the necessary weight/diameter of the dyneema? how often do you figure you'll need to re tune (tighten/re tension) the dyneema until it's stretch is somewhat stabilized? How often do you expect to have to re tune it after that? Lastly, what is the life expectancy that ya'll are figuring on, assuming the harshest conditions? I should say, as always, great video.
When using 2 part paint that has already been mixed . Paint left over , put in UN lubricated condom , tie knot and into the fridge . Next day empty into container , let warm up for an hr then paint again.
Mirrool is ready for Prom Night... Queen of the Ball! It will be interesting to learn how much faster she sails with the new sails, lighter rigging & faired hull. 10 knots in a dead calm is my guess... wink wink
Nice work! It appears there are no additional securing for the pins in the shackles at deck level? Does worry me, as the pins may come out in due course.
Hi Troy and Pascal, could I ask you where you bought all your Dyneema rigging from? I’ve been searching and can’t find a supplier for the t-ball ends that you used. I would really appreciate your guidance. Good luck with your new adventure with Free Range Homestead, looking forward to seeing how you guys get on.
As usual a fabulous video! I'm a bit concerned, though, at 06:16: Those assemblies seem flawed. The line fastening the shackles to the rings should run in the grooves of the rings - not through the centers, because In case of a broken ring it all comes apart. Done the "right" way it'll stay together as the lines are all looped together. Of course those rings rated at 3200 kgs each are very strong. But is that value the pulling or compressing force limit? Cheers from Denmark.
I caught onto your sailing channel for it's practicality and good sense. Seeing Mirrool on the hard getting such a fantastic refit has been a joy. She always presented as a good boat, I think you've raised her to a gem. I look forward to the sailing.
As one of the current 426 Patreon members supporting the effort to bring these videos to now more than 100k RUclips subscribers, I would like to think that another 175 supporters can be found to bring Mirrool, Troy and Pascale to the goal line of 600 in the attempt to bring ship and crew ultimately international to continue this adventure well into the future. It’s been a great journey so far and glad to see my investment turn to gold under the Mast so to speak. let’s see it continue!
I loved the "editor breaks the fifth wall, this narrative makes no sense, here's a fix" moment.
You both are doing a great job, and I am getting lots of good ideas.
ETA: Is that a Australia Colonial sovereign? Nice to have that under your mast.
Looking great Love your work
Loving your Dyneema Rigging, its a combination of space age and old time...!! It looks simple with few mooving parts and easily repairable!!
It's amazing how many sailors get stuck in weird places because a wire fitting or turnbuckle breaks.
This system looks great.
Thanks for the comprehensive video. I, too, will be doing dyneema rigging on a 82 Moody 36s project whenever I get to see my boat again. It’s sitting in NY State, just across the border but it’s closed. I need to acquire these low friction rings.
I realize the amount of time and effort that you take to make the videos. This was a really good one. Even the aspects you didn't describe with words I could see about the dyneema rigging details. Thank you.🌻
heya looking better and better
Troy, those screws aren't Allen heads (those are hex instead of square)... they are pan headed Robertson screws. Robertson (a Canadian) designed them for the original assembly lines at Ford & GM a century ago as the machines could put them on unaided and they would take much more torque than the original slot screws of the time. He was outbid by an American who designed the Phillips (star) screw and the two ended up in a heated battle for marketshare which Robertson lost much to the angst of many of us who have found that rusty Phillips head screws are nearly impossible to get out without impact drivers. With all screws, it is super important to use the correct size driver as even slot screws can be removed very well if nobody has buggered up the edges by using a screwdriver that is too small.
The Dyneema rigging seems to make so much sense, I’m surprised more people aren’t using it.
Because most people don't understand how to use it correctly, they rush into using it and then they have problems. Then they get angry because they can't get shroud tension and they remove everything, go back to wire and then claim it was it was a waste of money.
@@SteelDoesMyWill
It's why it pays to spend a bit more and hire an expert to help you.
@@charlesharper2357 yeah dude, you might want to check out my channel...
Bob, I replaced my steel braided cable on the 4X4 electrical winch with dyneema. Best thing ever!
@@stevenr8606
My winch came with stainless, but I'm definitely impressed with my buddies dyneema cable...much easier to handle.
Looking forward to your experience with the dyneema rigging and how it holds up. Nice video as always we enjoyed it.
It’s good stuff! Ours is now 6 years old and 18,000nm, still going strong 😉
Love the channel.
Love the ethos.
Bought a Westwind 35 Nauta this fall. Not planning on doing the refit as extensive as you guys, but still it is very inspiring! Thanks a lot.
Really enjoying the dyneema aspects. A material I have not used but is progressive. Go and look at the rigging on Matilda, which sits in dry dock at Constitution Dock in Hobart. Whipped with tarred twine the old way. I assisted Allister Martin to re rig Matilda in around the late 70s at Woodbridge. The rigging you will see is ours. Its not pretty but we raced her locally with that rig. I was probably about 13 years old. First time that I wire spliced. I think the dead eyes have been removed since, sadly. Well, the dyneema looks heaps easier but on the same concept of dead eyes. Good work.
Me thinks that a gold sovereign you have under your mast. A worthy good luck charm indeed. don't sink without recovering it first
Pete the Rigger, traditional swashbuckler with new tech. True craftsman, understands the physical properties of every component and how to use those properties to best advantage. He has provided you two with am incredible education in self sufficiency. Thanks so much for documenting every step of this process... your video production & editing process has matured to full-pro.
very cool indeed
She’s looking good. You guy are really knocking it out of the park. Indeed, if the coin is gold, I’ll bet it will be at least 3x today’s value in 3 years. Did you look up the value after stepping the mast? 😂😂👍👍✌️✌️
As a coin collector I was like, "that is a nice gold sovereign, you can't put that under a mast!", and then I thought "what a cool coin to have under your mast!"
Just been reading up on Dyneema , 8 year lifespan and stronger than steel . Well done guys looks great
That Dyneema Rigging just looks amazing!
Outstanding!! Happily, I received my Artistic "Free Range Sailing" T-Shirt on Christmas Eve.... I wear it Proudly
"We don't want to subject you to lots and lots of sanding footage." Sacrilege, it's called "Glorious, Glorious, Sanding". Just ask Mads from Sail Life.
🙂🙂🙂🙂🇩🇰
Well maybe I should load more sanding haha
I think there are a bunch of sanding masochists out there in the world
Every sailor should accept spiders and sanding!
oh, glorious sanding.
I never got tired to see you working as you do with the Mirrol.
Hard work, but very wised and clearely simple decisions to make sure that you wont need to refit in the next few years.
Good team!!! Thank you for chairing your experiences.
Un grand salut !!
Troy I am glad your rear hatch covers have stood up to the test of time 👍👍
Good old Lanoline, straight off the sheep's back so it is natural and environmentally friendly.
However would a Teflon lubricant not do a better job on the shackles Troy?
(Manufacturer deliberately omitted) Severe Service Grease with Teflon® fluoropolymer is an industrial grade grease formulated for maximum water repellency and boundary lubrication protection. This grease provides lubricity, thermal stability (-40ºF to 350ºF), and rust and corrosion protection, especially in salt water and high moisture applications.
Ow my god Pascy, the stuff you remember and mention without any written paper, all by heart is insane! Respect! 🙏
Good onya! Excellent music this week btw (and first comment! 😀)
All of this hard work the two of you have been doing is very impressive. Thank you both for sharing this with us.
Congratulations on a beautifully done job. I envy the planning for the future that has gone into every detail.
Nice video
Looking forward to watching you paint. That is one of our summer projects. Looks like you rolled and tipped.
Looking great, your hard work is certainly paying off. And I know, now that you can see the light at the end of the tunnel it must be such a relief.
Beautiful job on the rigging. I love my new long sleeve T. Thanks Troy and Pascal!
Great sound trac for this one Pascale! You two have done a fantastic job on this refit, it wont be long and you'll be back to Free Range sailing!!!!!
I must admit, I didn't give Dyneema a second thought....until this latest refit. I hope it proves out to more than equal your faith in it. Gee....102,000 subs....you two are doing things that make people satisfied!!
So much work and cool stuff going into the boat, I can hardly wait to see it finished.
That rigging is beautiful. Won't be long now she'll be under sail. You both have done amazing refit work top & bottom.
Saw your video for the first time,honest and truthful down to the point good for all yacht owners to learn from.
Just amazing work, guys !!!!!!!! Love the new rigging. Looking forward to your feedback after some use.
Interesting re dyneema rigging. A racing boat I used to crew changed to this, and they were surprised how much creep (meaning elongation) the material had. Hopefully you have ample room for those pulleys to tighten. Great work both of you! Wish I had time to put my boat through similar refit!
Nice to see you put the coin back 🤗...Did the same here in France when I rebuilt my cottage and found a silver piece in mint condition in a mètre thick wall dated 1787. Way back then somebody thought of us here today 🤔!.....Marrool, keep them safe!
Mirrool ... pardon!
I just LOVE your video series and this episode is among the very best. Charm + information + sense of humor = WIN.
I am a boatbuilder of 50 years' standing (with reputation to match) and have a couple of observations (not nitpicking, just thinking):
Stainless-steel 1x19 wire rope has been around for generations. It was on your boat in 1969. Dyneema is wonderful for high-perf applications and especially anything that might need to be sliced away in an emergency (vis. lifelines when retrieving MOB). But it is fatally vulnerable to any accidental contact with an open blade or to mild/consistent abrasion in general. I've used it for spinnaker halyards, etc. but I'd NEVER use it as for primary standing rigging. I'd prefer to not use it for lifelines either. And nothing's nicer than being able to re-tune the rig using bottle screws - I even made a tool for it.
I like your addition of an inner forestay. I did the same thing :) That little inner jib is the best sail on the boat.
HDPE doesn't - in theory - stick to anything like fiberglass, epoxy, 5200, etc. How to you retain it without admitting water between it and what it's supposed to be adhering to? I've used PVC (a great friend of 5200) for similar applications many times. PVC when scuffed-up by sandpaper and softened with acetone works very well with epoxy. I have that ubiquitous 1970s black-aluminum toerail through which I drilled additional hardware like running-backstay U-bolts - I'm not sure I would trust the coaming for anything like that.
You waxed the deck plate for the fuel fill - but then how did you clean it off to accept sealant to keep out the water? Most of these SS fittings are made with gaps to accept a (fat) bead of sealant (which should only ever be polyurethane compound). My practice is to cut it out a little oversize (vis. 51-mm hole saw for 50-mm fitting) and to flood the gap with 5200. I've never seen this fail.
I love all your raised deck bolsters for hardware-attachment points - but did you allow for the passage of water along the bulwark? Any stoppage of the flow could lead to a standing pool uphill, which would pass only when it rises above the level of the raised bolster - which negates the benefit of raising the fitting base.
In general West System 410 Microlight is not intended for immersion areas (hull and especially below the waterline). I used it extensively all over my deck. This includes all the damage repairs, the hardware-base pads like you made, and a lot of custom stuff like the sides of the mast step and new/upgraded radii of fillets, like the ones you made around the dodger. It's wonderful for sculpting by hand and yields a very 'factory' appearance. But for all topsides fairing I used microfibers. I faired the whole hull using a soft pad on a 6" dual-action sander following Dry Guide fairing dust. It was a simple matter to cut it with 180 and 220 grit and the boat is fairer now than when it left the factory in 1974! Also - I have painted epoxy/Microlifght blends with Brightside and even enamel many times. No problems after the first coat or two.
I admire all the work you did to that poor cockpit and totally sympathize with the level of labor that entailed. Been there; done that!
Keep up this beautifully soulful project you've been undertaking and do be safe and happy in all your adventures!
An amazing and well thought out refit and the documented reasoning for wach step will im sure become a guide to many tackling this type of project. You have both put so much effort and info out there and i salute you. Hope you get many many hours of enjoyment as a reward for this by sailing stress free as a result of doing things right the first time during refit.
Hard work and perfection pays off! Take care be safe, wonderful video.😎👍
ahahah loved that editing booth comment :) nice video.
Always learn new things watch you two.
Looks great. New boom!
She is Looking SO Good ....Getting Close to the Fun Times....( not that doing a refit is not fun)....THANKS for sharing
Absolutely thrilled with the quality of work you're doing, so very thorough. God Bless you both and keep you safe, can't wait for the next video!!
I love all the improvements can't wait to see you go sailing again to test it all out.
Awesome content once again!! Can't wait to see you sailing her again!!💪
Loved your time jump Pascy! Great music choice this week! Looking forward to learning more about dyneema rigging.
Aye m8’s, nice lap of time (time lap) to show the mast stepping. I think I’m just as excited as you are about this new rig.
Thickened epoxy! Cheers 🥂
Excellent workmanship and the rigg looks fantastic interested to see how the tuning of the rigg goes when its all done settling into place and when she goes to sea trials.
First of all, congrats from across the ditch on getting to 100k subscribers. Well done. I guess it's because of your personalities. You always look happy. Also, it's the way you present each episode. I mean you could talk about the inside of an egg shell and still not bore us. I guess we're all looking forward to "splash" day. So this subber will be with you, for a long time yet. Take care. Atb for 2021.
Thanks great video with lot of detail and great advice, going to be the best clansman boat on the water 👍🏻👏⛵🏴
Nice job guys . Mirrool is going to be better than new by the time you are finished
Can' t wait to see you back on the water and how the boat will perform. Great video as usual. Thumps up.
2 inch Dyneema is what we used on the riverboats to secure the tow to the barges which are 300 yards long on average. And sometimes two up to 14 of the barges at a time. Those barges being full of everything from oil to acetone. How many thousands of tons would that be. If we hit a sand bar or the pilot would make a wrong move (like steering to hard in one direction) the cables would snap like thread and cut anything in it's way in half. Not the dyneema it did not spring back when it broke it just lay down. I could see where on a boat it would be so much stronger and safer. Thank the two of you for such excellent, quality, and educational, videos. Also thank you for your lack of T&A and nudity in order to get more views and subs. Chief
I can hardly wait to see her with paint. I mean Mirrool of course.
Ok this is video number 39 of my "I want to buy a Free Range Sailing hoody" campaign
Cheers
Matt
thanks guys got my shirt its sailing around the farm
Fantastic Effort!
I believe I would gave gotten a peice of stainless pipe and mounted it on both sides of the top of the spray hood to make goin g up on the bow safer
Great refit. She is going to look beautiful once done.
She is going to look fantastic :)
Another great Video. Pascal such an expert on fairing and expert on fibreglassing. You are both such a good pair. Love your work.. cheers
Hi, I've just binge watched all your vlogs over the last 2 weeks, WOW what a journey, love your channel. :-)
Great work and still battling away. TROY they had you on the Ropes for awhile there. LOL pun intended.
I'm presuming lano-tech is water resistant ? I'm from the US. We need to get friggin rid of imperial sizes.
I actually teared up a bit when the mast went up.
I would have used a 2020 $1 coin and used the beautifull gold coin to purchsse a very exspensive bottle of scotch to celebrate the launch😊
I love how much work you guys have done with Mirrool. I always like to see stuff done correctly and I hate watching someone do like 80% of the project without going all the way. You guys really went to the 110% and that's super satisfying for me to watch. Can't wait to see you guys enjoy all the blood, sweat and swearing 🤔 that goes into a project of this size.
nice work m8s! looking forward to the paint job, the 'top' looks rippa! stay safe an well eh!
Another interesting video, it’s getting ever closer to finish date. Well done and all the best to you both. Alan, in the UK.
I love you guys so much great content.
Excellent as usual!!!
Imperial measurement is the way to go.
Fantastic video.
Congratulations
I'm glad you two are getting the boat ready to sail again soon nice video as usual
I’m curious how much you have to adjust you standing rigging with the change in temperature. I was going to change to dynema, but wanted to wait to see about temperature issues.
This also is my concern for our climate in New Zealand, on a cold morning not being able to sail until the rig goes tight again. But I haven't seen it first hand so interested in first hand knowledge 🤔
I am a big fan of LanoCote grease, which is the brand here in the States. It smells quite like sheep, which is a good thing in my opinion. I rarely use tefgel for anything. Lanolin grease is good for most things, that or locktite which isolates as well as locks, like you mentioned in the video.
I've mostly given up drilling and tapping the mast for stainless fasteners. I just use aluminum rivits for things that don't need to support much weight like steaming lights. Sure, in order to remove them they need to be drilled but so often is the case that stainless bolts are messed up bad enough to need drilling anyhow. Often they will never need fo be removed again anyhow. If I need more strength than an aluminum rivet will offer I will upgrade the rivet to monel. Pricey, but stronger than even a stainless fastener tapped into the thin mast extrusion.
Now you can never leave your mast unguarded or someone might attack it with a hacksaw to steal that gold piece while you are on a walk about.
Geez she's gonna be a schmick boat.
Troy, what did you use to make the holes for the running back stay chain plate? I'm tipping it wasn't a twist or spade bit lol. cheers.
Great job, anxious to see the launch!!! Got the new shirts, they look great, thanks and best of luck in the upcoming summer.
finely received my shirt, thank you and a happy new year
What I was told, was the USA has stricter regulations on anything related to hoisting, compared to other countries. (Not throwing shade, many many other countries do many many things better than us, lol.) so sailboat rigging falls under that. I'm sure it was done as some sort of regulatory capture, not cause our government cares way way more about riggers safety than other governments do, hah.
Great work looks amazing
Mirrool is looking completely different to the boat I saw in Carnarvon such a long time ago, a job well done!. Can you p,ease tell me which episode you did the tour of the barge that you used to work on ?. I’ve had a look and can’t seem to find it. I’m living on TI these days and can’t wait to get my boat over here!.
Very interested in the mast length and size dyneema stays you used
maybe i missed it in the video. but:
what weight/diameter dyneema did you use? what was your torque specs (at what frequency did you tighten it and the progressive tension (lbs) of tension and of course the final tension). where did you measure the tension at? and how much does that (the testing point) matter?
instead of measuring the tension did you tune it like a guitar and confirm with line of sight up the mast insuring it was true?
would that tension vary based on mast size which of course could change the necessary weight/diameter of the dyneema?
how often do you figure you'll need to re tune (tighten/re tension) the dyneema until it's stretch is somewhat stabilized? How often do you expect to have to re tune it after that?
Lastly, what is the life expectancy that ya'll are figuring on, assuming the harshest conditions?
I should say, as always, great video.
I'm so sorry you have to use Imperial fittings anywhere on this boat. Love, a well meaning Yankee.
When using 2 part paint that has already been mixed . Paint left over , put in UN lubricated condom , tie knot and into the fridge . Next day empty into container , let warm up for an hr then paint again.
Mirrool is ready for Prom Night... Queen of the Ball! It will be interesting to learn how much faster she sails with the new sails, lighter rigging & faired hull. 10 knots in a dead calm is my guess... wink wink
Nice work! It appears there are no additional securing for the pins in the shackles at deck level? Does worry me, as the pins may come out in due course.
Hi Troy and Pascal, could I ask you where you bought all your Dyneema rigging from? I’ve been searching and can’t find a supplier for the t-ball ends that you used. I would really appreciate your guidance. Good luck with your new adventure with Free Range Homestead, looking forward to seeing how you guys get on.
As usual a fabulous video! I'm a bit concerned, though, at 06:16:
Those assemblies seem flawed. The line fastening the shackles to the rings should run in the grooves of the rings - not through the centers, because In case of a broken ring it all comes apart. Done the "right" way it'll stay together as the lines are all looped together. Of course those rings rated at 3200 kgs each are very strong. But is that value the pulling or compressing force limit?
Cheers from Denmark.
Good catch. I agree and would want the non chafe combined with the built in redundancy of groove routing.
West System