K46 Hydrostatic Transmission Repair. (Part 2) TUFF TORQ (Husqvarna)
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- Опубликовано: 8 ноя 2017
- Please note: It has been pointed out to me that I did not go into detail about where to fill this transmission or what oil to use. This is not intended to be a step by step "how to" video. I go into some detail explaining the inner workings, but this video is intended for entertainment purposes. I
n this, Part 2, I disassemble the transmission, clean it up and resemble it. This will be a 3 part video. Part 3 will have some welding.
This is a little K46 Hydrostatic transmission job. The tractor was leaking on the customers garage floor.
I found a few intersecting things while working on this tractor. Not everyone does the same quality of work.
Cheers !! 
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Would you be kind enough to tell what oil you did use to refill the transmission? Mine looks identical to yours and I think it uses 15w50 or 20w50, but would like to be sure. Thank you for the great video. I couldn't have done the job without it.
Hello Allen. I have answered this question several times, but I can't seem to find any of my responses, haha. So here we go again. Perhaps I will pin your question to the top.
I use a different oil almost ever time depending on how old the transmission is, what temperatures it is used at and if it has had any signs of slipping in the past.
Older trans, issues with slipping, warm temps all require thicker oil. A combination of all 3 and I have used 20W50 full synthetic. You can get this from Harley Davidson, Ams oil and a few other companies.
Low hours, no slipping, used in cooler temperatures (plowing snow etc) = thinner oil. A combination of all 3 and I have used 5W30 full synthetic.
I have seen everything from 5w30 to 15w40 recommended by manufacturers, so there is no "correct oil" to be used. If the tractor is only summer used I tend to stick with a 10w40 or 15w40 simply by preference.
Cheers and thanks for the comment.
To rebuild a Tuff Torq K46, you are supposed to use 2.4qt. Of 5W-50; just in case someone needs to know.
I took my deck out for the first time watching videos,thanks to all the professional making videos for mechanical challenged people
Right on Bill ! Glad my video helped ! I've been a mechanic all my life and I still watch RUclips videos to learn all sorts of things. I'm currently learning how to build carbon fibre and learned it all on RUclips.
Nice Austin mini shell back there
Thank you Joel - great video and you showed us weekend warriors a couple of tricks (zip ties... awesome). I own a Husqvarna 22v46 and it has already paid for itself but I try my best to maintain it. My last outing (each time used is about 5-6 hours non-stop) I noticed that it seem to be slipping a little bit but it was also a warmer day than usual so not sure if it is developing an issue or not. Checked the drive belt and pulleys and they seem to be in very good condition. Regardless, I have a lot more confidence after your video should I have to tear into the Tuff Torq.
The first thing to check if you have a little slip is that the belt had decent tension when the clutch is released. The clutch spring pulls tension on the belt. If there is debris trapping the clutch lever or links, I have seen this cause the belt to slip. One guy was quoted $1400 for a repair and it took me 5 minutes and an air compressor to fix the problem. Stuff gets packed in under the mower pretty tight so sometimes you may need a pick of sorts.
If you live in a climate where it is mostly warm, or you are only using your mower when it is warm, you can use a thicker oil to get more life before a rebuild 15W40 or 15W50 full synthetic.
Wow bro you got some skills
You’ve gained my subscription!!
telling me where that small pin belongs has really saved my A$$ 😅
watched your first video when removing transmission but I can't hear alot of what you are saying so I will try to find one I can hear how and what is being said. Liked what I could see.
I can tell you why they drilled out the threads as I had the same problem with my Husqvarna. The bolt for that bracket was broken, which caused the transmission to tork back and forth, which in turn constantly caused the drive belt to come off, which is a pain to put on. It was much easier to drill out the threads and add a bolt with a nut on the other side than to completely remove the transmission and easy-out the broken bolt. From what I have read online, this has been a problem with these tractors. Once I did this, I have not had a problem since.
joel arseneault I’m not saying that because I drilled out the threads it’s more stout. Just saying it was easier than removing the transaxle and if it breaks again, I just have to reinstall a new nut and bolt. Mowing conditions have not changed a bit. Good video. Learned a lot from it.
merci
You should have drilled in a pair of drain plugs.
The housing has cast in bosses where plugs are installed, but most mower manufacturers choose to not have them.
I suppose its a buck cheaper and creates potential future sale of parts & service, perhaps a whole new mower.
Where are these bosses that you speak of ? I thought of doing this, but the lowest part of the case is the differential area, and there isn't much room there and the case is thin for threading.
EDIT : Perhaps the area just ahead of the pump screen?
Im stealing the zip tie trick, pure genius. Those pumps are a pain in my ass!
I thought I had replied to this a year ago...
Yes, they are a pain in the ass and the zip tie trick works most of the time but it's still a pain, haha.
I remember you replying at one point because this topic is not something I revisit frequently so the memory stands out. Appreciate the tip!
Stating in the description which Tuff Torq model transmission this is would be helpful.
I don't know how the heck I overlooked that ! Thanks for pointing it out. Also put it in the title.
Late to your “party” here, great video and commentary! I have a quick question; how did you manage to get the old gasket sealant off? Your pan looks brand new!
Thanks for the comment. Not totally sure how I did this one, but I usually use a combination of a wire brush and 3M scotch brite. You can actually buy 3M scotch brite pads for rotary tools, that work pretty well, but they are a little pricey . The 3M scotch brite pads are a lot cheaper and just take a little more effort... and you can usually get then at Home Depot or lowes in the cleaning product isle .
EDIT: Buy the green ones ... they are perfect, not the red or others.
Great work Joel !
Do you think these Hydrostatic Units & specifically the K46 are reliable & durable?
Many of the 19hp / 42" tractors I'm looking at have them, it seems to be that or an MTD Vari-drive rig.
Any thoughts ?
I was sure that I responded to this ... The K46 is a great transmission for mowing on fairly level ground. If you have a lot of hills, rough ground or if you plan to tow, till or plow, it's not the transmission for you.
The MTD Vari-drive is junk and I always tell people to stay away from it.
Awesome video. I have a Troy Bilt Horse XT with a leaking aluminum housing Tuff Torq xmission. Only 77 hrs. How do I know which model transmission is in the unit. No model info on the label.
joel arseneault, thanks! The model number is 13WQ93KP011. The search say it has Tuff Torque 618-05100. Seem right?
What makes this a hydrostatic transmission. ? I see no filter and have read that this is just an automatic transmission. I had one a 2015 model it was good for flat yard mowing but than we moved and had hills and went to total crap to the point got UP hill it rolled backwards going forward than heard a click in the transmission and it rolled over. So by by I don’t recommend them except for flat use only.
A hydrostatic transmission is a hydraulic transmission that uses a pump, that is driven by the engine, and then uses oil pressure / flow to turn the heels (by supplying a hydraulic motor). A "normal" gear transmission uses physical gears that links the input shaft to the wheels with a series of gears.
There are hundreds or thousands of different models of Hydrostatic transmission, and this just happens to be a popular due to the low cost. This particular unit is not intended to be serviceable. It is a sealed unit that does not have a drain, fill hole or even a why to check the oil level. Some hydrostatic transmissions use filters, reservoir tanks and oil coolers. These are intended for heavier use and are serviceable.
Millions of people use these K46 hydrostatic transmission and never have an issue. Typically when someone has an issue, you can find some reason. The cooling fan was broken or plugged, they were using it to tow a trailer or tiller etc. that was too heavy, their property had a lot of hills or rough terrain.... When they are used how they were intended to be used, most of them last for decades without any service, and that why they were made and why they are still often used.
As you said, they are not good for hills. The issues is that they have a very small oil volume and no oil cooler. The oil will get VERY thin and overheat... after you do this a few times, the transmission will start wearing out rapidly.
If you are towing anything other than a seed spreader, have rough terrain or have any real hills, then a K46 is not for you. Unfortunately, most salesmen are too stupid or greedy to tell a customer this, and even more often, these units are sold at stores where there are no salesmen / no one who knows anything about the product.
This is an awesome video! Thank you! I have a YTH 24K48 and when I picked it up from my father-in-law there was a snap sound and now it wont move under power. The engine starts but when you release the break there is a grinding sound coming from the transmission and nothing happens when you press the forward or reverse pedal. It does roll freely when the break is set. Befor I pull this thing apart and start hunting for the problem, do you have any ideas what I should be looking for?
Thanks in advance!
If the brake is not working, and it won't move, there is a chance that it is just an issue with a broken "key" in the axle hubs. Remove the wheels and check to see if the keys are in pace, not sheared, and that the keyways are not damaged. If these parts are damaged, the tractor axles can turn without moving the wheels.
If the axles, hubs and keys are all okay, then you probably have some very serious internal transmission issues. It should be pretty obvious what is broken IF you take it apart, but I wouldn't think that it is worth repairing the transmission as you would have to replace all of the parts, to be "safe"
I have a Husqvarna just like that one right now that I need to work on I checked everything out and I think it's a transmission but I don't know what I've seen I don't know why the transmission wouldn't work I got also a pro series Sears Craftsman lawn mower that's doing the same problem
I'm just seeing your comment now. Not sure why I missed it before.
Husqvarna makes (made) a bunch of the Craftsman products. Anything with a 944 model number, but beyond that, these transmissions are in dozens of brands.
Before you assume that it is the transmission, it is a good idea to check for belt slip. This can be caused by anything from a clump of grass trapped in the wrong spot to damaged linkage... It's a good idea to check other things before removing or trying to repair the transmission. Check for leaks and check to see if the oil level is low.
Generally, if it is a trans slip issue, it will work better when the transmission is cool, when you first start using it, and then as it gets hot it will gradually start working worse and worse.
Excellent work on the disassemble and repair, the removing the broken fastener is routine, however still well done. A quick question do the Axels run through a bush or bearing? If a bush is it oil feed via the sump or would you suggest a slight lather with a Molybdenum Grease? Or do you think this would be not necessary?
I have a mechanical back ground however each repair without experience brings new learning of course.
Very video thanks for the effort and information.
Thanks ! The axles run through bushings, not bearings. Some sort of assembly lube probably isn't a bad idea, but I would say not necessary. They are not pump or pressure fed, and sit below oil level.
From what I have seen, it is either overheating, from having a broken or plugged fan, or overloading / rough terrain that kills these transmissions. I have seen many of these that are 25 years old, never been serviced and still work fine.
So my Husqvarna has a Hydro Gear not a Tuff Torq. Sat for years. Trying to resurrect it. I can't get it to freewheel. Lever actuates but trans is locked in gear. It has this expansion tank on the top. Could it be the fluid needs to build pressure before moving, being it sat for too long? Could not having ANY fluid cause it not to freewheel? Perhaps something internal is wrong? I do know I frewheeled it recently, but now somethings up. I'm lost
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips Thanks for the reply! it's definitely stuck internally. I can move the lever and observe all external linkages operating correctly. I'm gonna start with draining the oil (if there is any, lol) and refill and see if it'll budge
In the beginning of video, you had a square black piece, flat on one side, with 4 chambers on other, laying with two magnets. We have that piece and you didn't show where it goes?????? Can you tell me what that is and where it goes. It just fell out when I opened the transmission?????? Thanks
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips by
good day . When I rotate the pulley that has the fan, does it have to rotate the drum with the cylinders if the traction is activated? greetings from Argentina
I'm not sure what you are asking. The "pump" drum is connected to the input shaft with the fan and it must turn when the input shaft turns. If not the shaft is broken or the spline is stripped.
The "motor" drum is connected to the wheels and is only driven with oil pressure. If the forward / reverse lever is in neutral, the motor drum will NOT move, if there is air in the system, the motor drum will NOT move and if you turn it slowly, by hand, even if it is "in gear" (forward / reverse lever engaged) it still may not move.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for the videos i should make a u tube account for everything i work on. Where did you get replacement parts? The audio is not loud enough i will buy a headset ty for the video.
For sure. Making videos can be quite satisfying ! That being said, it can also be a huge pain. Trying to operate a camera around greasy parts, with greasy hands or gloves, trying to change batteries, trying to remember to say specific things that may seem obvious, getting the right camera angle, lighting ... talking loud enough, haha.... and then there's the editing.
Some people are a natural at this and just do and say everything correctly, and that makes editing easy. I'm not that person. I think this 20 minute video took me over 4 hours to edit.
The Tuff Torq K46 Hydrostatic comes in different variants I have the Tuff Torq K46 heavy-duty in my Craftsman T240
Yes, that's right, they come in lots of different variations and they are used on many models by many brands.
I have a Craftsman 24hp 48 deck with a K46AW, would you possibly know what the AW stands for? Thanks
Knowing the function of all the parts helps memorizing the assemblyproces, I guess
For sure ... I always say, I have a horrible memory, but I'm good at figuring things out. I've never used a manual to assemble a transmission. I just have a bunch of pieces that need to go inside, and they all have a job to do. Mind you, this sometimes leads to two attempts, if you miss one part, where, with a manual, it's much harder to miss steps and end up with left over pieces.
Is that a Honda Motorcycle behind you?
A Suzuki ... 250 Marauder
One of my axle seals failed this weekend. Can it be replaced without dropping the transmission? I haven't looked yet but it seems like it should come out fairly easily right out of the housing?
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips Thanks I figured that out after the post...at least that is pretty easy to do. Problem now is I have no idea how much fluid to put back into the tranny. The stuff that oozed out smelled like rear-end gear fluid and was grey colored and somewhat thick. It definitely didn't look like the normal oil that is found in the gearbox....
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips I'm the original owner...and the unit has about 60 hours on it. I'll get a closer look and try to figure out what is going on. I'm not afraid to pull it apart (I've rebuilt a few engines) but it sure seems like these transmissions are a pain. I might engineer a filler tube that is accessible from outside the body. Other than the leak the tractor drives fine...no weird sounds or any other symptoms.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips Oh boy...it's even worse....it doesn't have the "Tuff Torq"....but some plastic cased tranny...off to investigate just how bad...and hoping if it needs replacing I can put the aluminum bodied "Tuff Torq" in without any major mods.
Did you lube the parts before you reinstalled them?
I don't recall. It may be recommended, but It not necessary.
I sheared the input shaft on the transmission and can’t find a video of anyone taking it out…
This video basically shows how to do that with only one step missing. You remove everything that I did and at 2:25 of this video you see me remove the pump off of the input shaft (I made a mistake and called it "part of the motor").
Once you remove your fan (yours is broken off I assume) there is usually a spacer or adapter that you remove. You will then have access to a retaining clip for the bearing and another retaining clip on the shaft. There is also another retaining clip on the bottom side of the bearing that you need to remove from the inside of the transmission. Altho it may not be necessary to remove all of these clips I highly recommend it so that you don't damage them and so that the shaft comes out as easy as possible.
From what I remember. the shaft comes out of the top so you have to hit the shaft on the inside to pop it out. It is a good idea to use a pointed punch that fits in the ends of the shaft so that you don't damage the shaft. It will probably come out pretty easy once you remove the clips, but if it is being difficult I recommend heating the case around the bearing with a propane torch for a few minutes.
It would be a good idea to replace the bearing while you are in there and take care to install it without hitting on the inner surface as not to damage it. If you need a tool to install the new bearing, you can usually slightly grind down the old bearing and use it to press the new one in.
I hope this helps.
Hi Joel, not sure if you're still on here but i have a tuff torq system very similar to this, mine is playing up and jerks constantly when rolling in neutral such as rolling down ramps, it feels as if there's a tooth missing somewhere but i opened it and no teeth were missing. it drives forward and backward fine, just neutral. i think it has something to do with the motor/piston mechanism. any ideas?
That could be a few things but I'm not 100% sure that I understand what you're saying.
Are you rolling it in neutral with the engine off and is the transmission disengaged with the disengagement lever on the trans, or just with the direction / speed control in the neutral position?
This is probably nothing serious, but I may be able to help you narrow it down if you answer my questions.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips thanks for replying joel.
ill try explain as simple as possible as i tend to over complicate things.
engine on, trans engaged, rolling in neutral down ramps on a trailer. it will stutter/jerk consistently, the faster you roll, the faster the stutter.
@@easilymatt8439 I tend to over explain things as well.
More than likely, this is because the transmission doesn't really have a neutral position... In two ways.
1. The wheels are directly attached (through gears) to the motor (pump) and turning the wheels causes fluid to be pumped through the system. This is why they have a disengagement lever... to bypass this flow. Pressure can spike speed and cause the wheels to jerk or lock.
2. Neutral on the control lever is simply as close to no angle on the swash plate as possible. ANY slight angle will cause some oil flow / pressure to build even if it doesn't cause the tractor to move.
It's not a good idea to roll in neutral. I would recommend driving down in gear. If it hasn't done this, and just started doing it, you could try to adjust your drive lever to reset the neutral position (try to get it closer to perfect) but it is still a good idea to either disengage the trans when rolling the tractor or drive it in gear.
Hope this helps.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips thanks joel i appreciate the help!
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips Joel i have another issue if you could help me again.
i have a husqy yth1542xp which is about 18 years old, it has the hydro-gear trans, it only has 200 hours on it and the trans makes this horrible vibration like noise (there isn't much vibration to feel) when both engaging a gear (both forward and backward) and driving up slopes, it can be quite jerky if engaging a gear too quickly also. the sound is similar to pushing a heavy metal box across a concrete floor. i guess to put it simply, the noise occurs under load.
I've replaced the trans oil and bled for 15 mins or so by raising the wheels and putting it in gear.
Thanks Joel.
Is this the same transmission a Husqvarna LGT2554 has? My LGT2554 just snapped the left rear axle. (If you're sitting on the tractor it the rear axle on your left side) Do you have any videos showing the replacement of this axle? Thanks. Take care, be safe, and have fun regardless.
Yes, they are the same transmission model. Yours is a K46AW. I don't have a video specifically dedicated to that, but this video series shows the basic way to do it.... It's pretty easy. Remove the transmission, flip it upside down, remove bolts and split the trans. :35 seconds into this video you see me remove the axle retainer and slide the axle out... then reverse the steps and put it back in.
You may also want to get a seal for the axle but I wouldn't bother replacing it unless you damage the old one.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips Thanks so much for replying. I really appreciate it. Take care, be safe, and have fun regardless.
Great narration and clean job Joel
Quick question
What transmission oil you used?
I am planning to do my mower YTH2348 sometime next week as transmission is leaking
My mower is 12 years old and no slipping issue. Recently started leaking. Planning to do change fluid and reseal. Btw, I use only in summer for lawn mowing
What fluid u suggest?
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips Thank You Joe. Appreciate your time
Thank you but you didn't show us why was the transmission not working
This transmission was working fine and needed to be removed because it had a bad oil leak. The leak was caused because some mounting bolts had broken off in the cases. The "repair" was 1. removing the bolts and 2. welding up the frame so it would not leak again.
Cheers
WHAT FLUID DOES IT TAKE??
Did I already answer this ? There is no one answer but...
Full synthetic engine oil.
Hotter climate, only using in the summer, lot of hours on mower thicker oil 15W40
Colder climate, using in winter, lower hours, thinner oil 10W30.
Always a good full synthetic oil and allow the trans time to heat up if using a thicker oil or if using it in cold weather.
Taryl Fixes
I guess the manufacturer saved a few pennies by not adding a drain/fill plug.
Yes, that's what usually determines what gets added or not... cost. For these little transmissions, most of the time the oil never needs to be changed. They are intended for very light use, so the oil should not break down due to heat. If the unit is sealed, you're not getting contamination from outside, and so the only reason to change the oil is if you have a lot of metal from wear ... If you have wear, you have bigger problems than changing your oil.
I will just take it to the garage. way too much work for me. too detailed as well.
Yeah. It's not a fun job ... most shops won't even do it. They will just tell you that you need a new transmission. The labour that is involved in doing it right (just taking one of these apart and putting it back together) is pretty intense.
WHY DID YOU DISASSEMBLE THIS TRANSMISSION ????????????????????
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips what kind of a hole are you ??????????????
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips sounded like you were being a mean guy.. not able to handle any criticism ????/ but maybe i'm not correct ???
wish you the best Ed
en
muffled voice.