Thanks! Trying to keep it as short as possible! I add music if I have long timelaps sections but that is on my “doing stuff” videos. The ones where I try to teach something (like this one) is mostly without music.
@@NilsKall OK thanks the reason I've found you is a problem with my old Kubota T1460 ride on mower, I noticed oil on the floor when last used and know I have a problem. odd thing when looking on underside of hydrostatic unit no trace of oil? Thanks again for very useful tips.
@@christophernunn943 strange! I checked and it seems your tractor has a Kubota made transmission. I don’t know much about them but I guess it could leak from the axle seals and then follow the wheels to the ground?
Thanks man, this is very helpful, I've just bought my R 15T from 2011 from a guy, and serviced the motor ( oil and filters change, and a few more adjustments because the engine was surging at lower RPM's) But regarding the transaxle I've asked the Husqvarna service guys from my town and they said "Why do you want to change the oil in the transmission, we never do that" After seeing this video, I've bought the Tuff tech oil, and next week I'm going to change the oil in my k46 transaxle.
@@NilsKall Yes, i have the machine for about 2 months now, i like it very much. The mower was in a very bad condition, but i've restored it, i've cleaned and repainted the chassis and i've bought the cutting deck because it was very rusted and big holes in it. Now i'm waiting for my new cutting deck, to change it.
Not here either! This was recorded last year but I didn’t have time to edit and then came winter. So I waited as I thought it was more suitable as a spring video!
It is great! Got it when I bought my first mini excavator. It came dry so hydraulic oil and the funnel was delivered with it. I kept the funnel but sold that excavator.
I will NEVER buy another Husqvarna mower. Never! It wasn't until I redesigned and built new critical parts did it begin to make it through a complete season without a serious problem. I've had it for about 20 years now, and the hour meter STILL shows zero hours.
@NilsKall @NilsKall it's front a front engine rider with hydrostatic drive. 1) Right out of the box, the drive belt wouldn't stay on. Returned mower to dealer twice, and they couldn't find the problem, yet it was still kicking the belt off. I took it home, crawled under it, and found fixed (as in non-adjustable) belt guides spaced too far away from pulleys. Roughly 3/4" (19mm) spacing. After remounting and/or bending guides, I was able to cure that problem. Thinking the puleys were incorrect, I had the dealer verify, and they were correct. 2) Didn't make it through its first season until the starter solenoid failed. Bought a replacement, lasted slightly longer. Replaced with a used solenoid from a mid-70s Ford vehicle and that one is still cranking the 25hp Briggs without fail. 3) OEM cloth covered v-belts have no internal reinforcing cords and break before wearing out. After 2nd season, I replaced with equivalent size industrial v-belts. These will hold up approximately 6 seasons. 4) Blade spindle packs barely last a season. This model has 3. They misapplied sealed ball bearings intended to support a horizontal shaft by using them vertically. I can't recall the part number, but I do remember the data sheet specified they were not rated for an axial load. In this application the axial load consists of the weight of the blade, retention nut, washer, drive pulley, a fraction of the belt weight, the inner races of the bearings themselves, half the weight of the bearing balls, the spindle, and the forced generated by lift while the blades rotate. 5) The OEM blade spindles are soft, and the drive end can not tolerate the slightest abuse without the forged keys stripping and becoming unable to drive the blade. Furthermore, they are of a small diameter (if memory serves, they were 16mm) and therefore would bend easily if striking a GOLF BALL of all things. I'm not going to mention all the little items that don't prevent me from mowing grass, but instead further illustrate the poor quality of this mower. One of which is the aforementioned faulty hour meter. Once I redesigned the sindle packs using a hardened, chrome-moly, 1-1/8 dia spindle, double deep groove roller bearing, a taper roller bearing, a housing that keeps the bearings lubricated via heavy oil bath, using hardened pins to drive the blade I was able to completely eliminate the spindle issue and have had ten, or so, years of service without a spindle breakdown. Given the amount of money I paid for this mower, I expected far more trouble-free service from it than what I got. I want to mow grass and finish the job in a single day. Not mow part of it, then tear the mower down, order and wait for parts, then finish the mowing sometime next week. I should have put the money spent on this thing toward a decent commercial mower. Husqvarna won't get another penny out of my pocket.
Good information you gave here
Thanks!
Great video with no dreadful music or pointless banter...my kind of video and thanks for the info.
Thanks! Trying to keep it as short as possible! I add music if I have long timelaps sections but that is on my “doing stuff” videos. The ones where I try to teach something (like this one) is mostly without music.
@@NilsKall OK thanks the reason I've found you is a problem with my old Kubota T1460 ride on mower, I noticed oil on the floor when last used and know I have a problem. odd thing when looking on underside of hydrostatic unit no trace of oil? Thanks again for very useful tips.
@@christophernunn943 strange! I checked and it seems your tractor has a Kubota made transmission. I don’t know much about them but I guess it could leak from the axle seals and then follow the wheels to the ground?
Thanks man, this is very helpful, I've just bought my R 15T from 2011 from a guy, and serviced the motor ( oil and filters change, and a few more adjustments because the engine was surging at lower RPM's) But regarding the transaxle I've asked the Husqvarna service guys from my town and they said "Why do you want to change the oil in the transmission, we never do that"
After seeing this video, I've bought the Tuff tech oil, and next week I'm going to change the oil in my k46 transaxle.
Great! Once I have a k46 on a machine I will do a change on that as well but the principle is the same! R15T is a really good machine!
@@NilsKall Yes, i have the machine for about 2 months now, i like it very much. The mower was in a very bad condition, but i've restored it, i've cleaned and repainted the chassis and i've bought the cutting deck because it was very rusted and big holes in it. Now i'm waiting for my new cutting deck, to change it.
@@ionutgrigorut4780 well then at least you know everything is OK and you can use it for many years.
It sure feels like spring here Nils. It won't be time to cut grass until May. Nice work.
Not here either! This was recorded last year but I didn’t have time to edit and then came winter. So I waited as I thought it was more suitable as a spring video!
I have a Husqvarna Rider 850 HST made in 1998 with K55 transmission, regular oil changes and it still runs strong forward and reverse.
Great! The K55 is a really strong transmission!
Very informative, thank you!
You are welcome!
Thanks for sharing. It was realy useful!
Hi! That is great to hear!
Nice funnel
It is great! Got it when I bought my first mini excavator. It came dry so hydraulic oil and the funnel was delivered with it. I kept the funnel but sold that excavator.
En español subtitulado y el modelo r16 4x4
Hola, lamentablemente aún no he tenido un modelo 4x4. Respecto a los subtítulos, es algo que youtube hace automáticamente.
först
Bra där!
I will NEVER buy another Husqvarna mower. Never! It wasn't until I redesigned and built new critical parts did it begin to make it through a complete season without a serious problem. I've had it for about 20 years now, and the hour meter STILL shows zero hours.
Ok so what was the problem? Was it a Husqvarna Rider?
@NilsKall @NilsKall it's front a front engine rider with hydrostatic drive.
1) Right out of the box, the drive belt wouldn't stay on. Returned mower to dealer twice, and they couldn't find the problem, yet it was still kicking the belt off. I took it home, crawled under it, and found fixed (as in non-adjustable) belt guides spaced too far away from pulleys. Roughly 3/4" (19mm) spacing. After remounting and/or bending guides, I was able to cure that problem. Thinking the puleys were incorrect, I had the dealer verify, and they were correct.
2) Didn't make it through its first season until the starter solenoid failed. Bought a replacement, lasted slightly longer. Replaced with a used solenoid from a mid-70s Ford vehicle and that one is still cranking the 25hp Briggs without fail.
3) OEM cloth covered v-belts have no internal reinforcing cords and break before wearing out. After 2nd season, I replaced with equivalent size industrial v-belts. These will hold up approximately 6 seasons.
4) Blade spindle packs barely last a season. This model has 3. They misapplied sealed ball bearings intended to support a horizontal shaft by using them vertically. I can't recall the part number, but I do remember the data sheet specified they were not rated for an axial load. In this application the axial load consists of the weight of the blade, retention nut, washer, drive pulley, a fraction of the belt weight, the inner races of the bearings themselves, half the weight of the bearing balls, the spindle, and the forced generated by lift while the blades rotate.
5) The OEM blade spindles are soft, and the drive end can not tolerate the slightest abuse without the forged keys stripping and becoming unable to drive the blade. Furthermore, they are of a small diameter (if memory serves, they were 16mm) and therefore would bend easily if striking a GOLF BALL of all things.
I'm not going to mention all the little items that don't prevent me from mowing grass, but instead further illustrate the poor quality of this mower. One of which is the aforementioned faulty hour meter.
Once I redesigned the sindle packs using a hardened, chrome-moly, 1-1/8 dia spindle, double deep groove roller bearing, a taper roller bearing, a housing that keeps the bearings lubricated via heavy oil bath, using hardened pins to drive the blade I was able to completely eliminate the spindle issue and have had ten, or so, years of service without a spindle breakdown.
Given the amount of money I paid for this mower, I expected far more trouble-free service from it than what I got. I want to mow grass and finish the job in a single day. Not mow part of it, then tear the mower down, order and wait for parts, then finish the mowing sometime next week. I should have put the money spent on this thing toward a decent commercial mower. Husqvarna won't get another penny out of my pocket.