The nibbling process is really necessary. As part of my learning curve with this setup, I found that if you rout the perimeter of the mortise (along the jig) without nibbling first, the chips clog and the bit overheats. When this happens, the blades dull quickly and the wood starts to burn. It’s a great system, but it is critical to set it up properly and do some test fits before you run them all. Once you have it dialed in, it’s a very efficient system.
I must be missing something here, I thought the four cuts you made were housings, not mortise holes. There are a variety of ways to stop the nibbling on the way out of the hole, use a saw cut, use a sacrificial piece of timber or like has been suggested already bring the router in from the face edge instead of going to the outside edge, very similar to when you rout around a table top. Really enjoy the video’s thank you.
Hi, Is such a connection made using the Arunda system sufficient? Should the connection be additionally strengthened with metal screws or wooden dowels? The depth of the milled mortise is not very deep, that's why I was interested.
Hi Peter The Arunda makes a tapered dovetail - the fit is impressive. The tenon ‘taper locks’ into the mortise. Arunda has engineered strength specifications for the joints. I was skeptical for years - before purchasing- after doing some research I made the purchase. After using now for a few years, I can say I should have bought it along time ago - it’s that good!
Good comment! Actually if you go slower on the first couple of passes when you are starting, you don’t get the blow out. My blow out was due to me going too fast on my initially passes. I did subsequent mortises, with slower first and second passes with no blow out I’ve tried an initial plunge as you suggest, but I got better results with slower pass 1 and 2.
@@theMainetimberframer Yes, it takes a bit of nibbling until you're in half way. But good to know that it's possible to get clean results when required. I'm always the one that spends too much time on stuff like this, my colleague keeps reminding me. Maybe that'll change once we finally get to building bigger frames, we'll have to see what the future holds.
Hi Ricky This router is 240V It can run either 1/4 or 1/2 collets Mine does not have a plunge base It does come with a plastic storage box Timberwolf tools is the supplier Hope this helps
Hi Sshumkaer: The Arunda jigs hold the position of the mortise and tenon cuts of the Mafell router. The Mafell router has a collar that rides inside the Arunda jigs controlling where the router can cut. After clamping the Arunda jig in place the router follows the jig pattern. It’s a pretty slick set up and the mortises and tenons are a perfect fit. I have a couple other videos of this operation that may have more detail to see. Thank you for the question.
Hello I’m on the Mafell platform, so it made sense for me to go with the Arunda jigs and Mafell router. With that said, I am not disappointed. The performance is terrific! For what ever reason, I do not have and festool or Ligna tools in the shop…. But who knows? Things could change.
The nibbling process is really necessary. As part of my learning curve with this setup, I found that if you rout the perimeter of the mortise (along the jig) without nibbling first, the chips clog and the bit overheats. When this happens, the blades dull quickly and the wood starts to burn. It’s a great system, but it is critical to set it up properly and do some test fits before you run them all. Once you have it dialed in, it’s a very efficient system.
Really awesome tool, thanks for the demo!
I must be missing something here, I thought the four cuts you made were housings, not mortise holes. There are a variety of ways to stop the nibbling on the way out of the hole, use a saw cut, use a sacrificial piece of timber or like has been suggested already bring the router in from the face edge instead of going to the outside edge, very similar to when you rout around a table top.
Really enjoy the video’s thank you.
Hi,
Is such a connection made using the Arunda system sufficient? Should the connection be additionally strengthened with metal screws or wooden dowels?
The depth of the milled mortise is not very deep, that's why I was interested.
Hi Peter
The Arunda makes a tapered dovetail - the fit is impressive. The tenon ‘taper locks’ into the mortise. Arunda has engineered strength specifications for the joints.
I was skeptical for years - before purchasing- after doing some research I made the purchase.
After using now for a few years, I can say I should have bought it along time ago - it’s that good!
Thank you for your answer, I'm seriously considering buying Arunda and you helped me make a decision :)
Thanks for sharing!
Can we see the result, the building?
Hi Victor
Please look at Facebook - R. Jemithan Timber Frame Company for pictures
Or
Www.mainetimberframer.com
Hope this helps.
If you touch that trouble area where you exit with the router first before you start working from the other side, do you still get the blow out?
Good comment!
Actually if you go slower on the first couple of passes when you are starting, you don’t get the blow out. My blow out was due to me going too fast on my initially passes.
I did subsequent mortises, with slower first and second passes with no blow out
I’ve tried an initial plunge as you suggest, but I got better results with slower pass 1 and 2.
@@theMainetimberframer Yes, it takes a bit of nibbling until you're in half way. But good to know that it's possible to get clean results when required.
I'm always the one that spends too much time on stuff like this, my colleague keeps reminding me. Maybe that'll change once we finally get to building bigger frames, we'll have to see what the future holds.
1) Is this router 120 or 240 volts
2) Does it support 1/4" & 1/2" collect?
3) Does it come with a plunge base?
4) Does it come in a systainer box?
Hi Ricky
This router is 240V
It can run either 1/4 or 1/2 collets
Mine does not have a plunge base
It does come with a plastic storage box
Timberwolf tools is the supplier
Hope this helps
@@theMainetimberframer wow I really was hoping you said 120 volt, I can't use it because most commercial job sites doesn't just have 240 volts out let
One of the things I don't understand is how are you using a power tool and not cutting all the way over to the edge and ruining your Timber Beam?
Hi Sshumkaer:
The Arunda jigs hold the position of the mortise and tenon cuts of the Mafell router.
The Mafell router has a collar that rides inside the Arunda jigs controlling where the router can cut.
After clamping the Arunda jig in place the router follows the jig pattern. It’s a pretty slick set up and the mortises and tenons are a perfect fit. I have a couple other videos of this operation that may have more detail to see.
Thank you for the question.
@@theMainetimberframer thank you that was a great answer
Why Arunda over Lignatool?
Hello
I’m on the Mafell platform, so it made sense for me to go with the Arunda jigs and Mafell router. With that said, I am not disappointed. The performance is terrific!
For what ever reason, I do not have and festool or Ligna tools in the shop…. But who knows? Things could change.
@@theMainetimberframer Thanks