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Hello I’m on the Mafell platform, so it made sense for me to go with the Arunda jigs and Mafell router. With that said, I am not disappointed. The performance is terrific! For what ever reason, I do not have and festool or Ligna tools in the shop…. But who knows? Things could change.

@@theMainetimberframer Thanks

I found with deep timber cuts the chips will load up between the chainsaw and the riving knife. Backing out slightly releases the chips and then I can continue to cut. I have not operated the saw with a vacuum system…. Yet.

It had to pump water through the engine - it’s all good! I later made the maiden voyage and no complaints!

Thanks for the input! Engine Water pump moves the water through the tell-tail.

Hi Rocco I think the work station height is about perfect for me. I opted not to get a larger work station as it’ll be a junk collection area. For sharpening, it works well Drawers for sharpener tools and CBN wheels I have several drawers not in use. The price for the box was cheaper than any table station. I could have built one - but the boxes were cheap!

@@theMainetimberframer thanks Rich. with limited shop space I like the workstation on wheels option for the sharpener. next up an exhaust/oil collection system. thanks again

@@roccofiori3028 Be careful when rolling it - the oil bath is not covered and you’ll have spillage over the sides of the tank if your movement is sharp or abrupt!

Hi George Top, bottom or fixed side head or moving side belt? Initially, I had bearing issues on the top head. I had to replace the head and bearings and the belt.

Hi John I’m on the Makita platform so the direction was easy for me. The Festool has the riving knife, but if the plywood is leveled, I don’t think the riving knife is needed. Festool makes good stuff, but I’m too invested in makita to move to their products.

Hi What is ‘promo sm’?

Yes I did

The BMS 250 does a good job sharpening blades consistently. I think you’ll be happy with the machine.

@theMainetimberframer yeah it's reputation proceeds it. I have a timberking 2020

Hi Gwadaflat I think the chain SPT55 is only available in US spec electricity.

Hi Peter The Arunda makes a tapered dovetail - the fit is impressive. The tenon ‘taper locks’ into the mortise. Arunda has engineered strength specifications for the joints. I was skeptical for years - before purchasing- after doing some research I made the purchase. After using now for a few years, I can say I should have bought it along time ago - it’s that good!

Thank you for your answer, I'm seriously considering buying Arunda and you helped me make a decision :)

I have the woodmizer earlier version for sale. It is oil bath CBN operates similarly to the BMS-250.

Hi Tableshaper I was skeptical for many years about the Arunda system. I also wanted a deeper mortise and tenon, I read the specifications for the joint strength from Arunda and found it to be more than satisfactory. I been using the Arunda for a few years and have not had any issues with joint fit or joint performance. It delivers a superior and consistent fitting joint - I should have made the purchase 40 years ago! No disappointments.

I am impressed with the Yeti Smartbench so far. I have a little bit of machining and tooling background so putting the yeti to work has been straight forward. The Vectric software is some what intuitive and so is the yeti controller. I purchased some basic tooling - straight, ball nose, v- bits and a few others and I have what I need for signs and slab flattening - I’m moving on to cut kitchen cabinet boxes with the yeti.👍!

Thank-you - a life time accumulation for sure!

Interesting work tapering the long beam. Sounds like a terrific career… I don’t think I could part with my tools either!

@@theMainetimberframer To make things worse I was scammed by my ex female, I had to sell some tools, and my HD DEUCE, so I. Could move to France to a property that we both own, and it December 2019 I got burglar, and I lost a €15000 worth of tools and equipment, special chainsaw for cutting through stone and granite walls with diamond chain, special lifting equipment, plus ride on normal, Then tap it all off the insurance was in my ex name, and she refused to have the payout released unless she received half of it, And I have been trying to take her to court, and because I’ve had no money apart from a pension from the state in the UK, I just have enough to live on, And I’m in my 70s and I am thinking of starting a little business up restoring and making furniture, I’m actually in the process of building a floor for my garage, The only one thing is come out of this on our own the property in France I had to buy her half out , She has even turned my family and friends against me, If I could read and write properly, I would write a book about what has happened over the last 15 to 20 years, they say don’t put your eggs all in my basket, trust and loyalty into a relationship just to get F ,

Hi Mrs Ducky I’m not sure of what you are asking?!

Maybe the center line marks from the fly cutter?

Hi Toby You can look up Arunda on line. They have a tech sheet for the strength of joints. I had had no issues with the connections.

Hi Eric: I have a foley 310 sharpener for the carbide circular blades. Did you see the jig I made to hold the split blades? It works well. Facebook market place sometimes has Foley 310s for sale. Good luck in your search.

Hi Tableshaper: The bandsaw is very versatile - both for curves, scarf joints and tenon cheeks cuts etc. You won’t go wrong with the bandsaw. I have the skilsaw SPT55 for a chain beam saw. While it’s not the Mafell, it does a pretty good job (squareness) for beam end cuts. Much better than a Prazi, not as good as Mafell.

Hi Ezequiel We haven’t used many spline joints over the years, so I don’t have a video. What is the application where you are thinking to use a spine joint? I have some pics of timber scarf joints on the R Jemithan Facebook pages if that helps. Good luck with your woodwork adventures and let me know if I can help!

Hi Simon The tenons are 15/16”. The dovetail shape is beveled so it locks into the corresponding beveled mortise. I have not had any situations where a wedge is needed. Really nice system!

@@theMainetimberframer Thanks for the super fast reply Rich much appreciated

Hi Larry Go to Facebook: Timber frame company - R. Jemithan Timber frame company. There is a post on March 31 2019 of the cut outs for the Sawhorses. They are made from Ash.

Hi Niall: Look for planer blade setting jig on Amazon +-$30.

Hi Niall: Most all of my tools, other than Mafell and Woodmizer, I purchased as used on various marketplace sources. Sometimes Facebook marketplace and sometimes local marketplaces. Keep your eyes open and sometimes deals appear!

Hi Stuart Our typical rule for tenon thickness is: Tenon thickness = 1/4 timber width. In this case the timber is 8” x 8” so the Tenon is 2”. I think you’ll find that 2” tenon on an 8x8 is very typical. Hope this helps.

Hi Carson We sharpen for ourselves and others.

Hi If you are considering a rip cut on a 8x8 timber A bandsaw mill is the way to go. If you have a 16” circular saw, you can do it with 2 rip cuts on opposite sides, but not recommended as it is difficult to match the cuts.

Sorry to hear of your bad experience. If they had better customer service, maybe the issue could have been resolved. I’ve had great success with the Cooks dual tooth setter.

@@theMainetimberframer Yeah we got the setter to work decently, but was going send it back for a new one until we figured out customer service was horrible. Live and learn.

Hi NSResponder: I shared your concern for many years about the bearing surface…. And delayed my purchase. After purchasing, I’ve haven’t had any issues. There is no option I know with this system to make a haunch.

@@theMainetimberframer Thinking about it a bit more, I suppose that when it's fully seated, most of the load would be on the sides rather than the bottom of the mortise, trying to spread the V. I'm curious how it does for pull-out resistance and how different species perform. Does Arunda specify a minium distance from a mortise to the end of a beam?

Hello The tenon and mortise are a tapered fit. The more the tenon is seated, tightens into the tapered mortise so the pull out strength is managed through the tapered fit.

@@theMainetimberframer Yes, I've seen similar geometry done with Hundegger or HOMAG machines, but they usually were considerably deeper, around 2" to 3" or so.

I’m cleaning the magnets after 10-15 blades or so. I’ll also do a sweeping action with the magnet to get the swarth in the back corners of the tank. I seem to get much much more swarth with the new machines than from my old machine. I’ve been spending a little more time setting up each blade to ensure I’m just kissing the blade and not hogging of material.