sweet video, I am going to do a side by side comparison with my chisel and hand saw vs this method. I learned to do it with the chesel first to become better with the chisel and understand the wood and its reaction. I think using this method is great for time if you are new, but like most things with power tools you can loose some fundamentals. Keep up the great vids!!
Hi Timberdoodles: I put together a video on the construction of the centering jig. Once you make one, you’ll wonder why you centered any other way! Also You can change out the 2” Rule to any other size needed. I have a 3” I use to center post stub tenons on the bottom of posts going into sills. The 3” I made from a piece of 1/4” luan
Hi Larry Go to Facebook: Timber frame company - R. Jemithan Timber frame company. There is a post on March 31 2019 of the cut outs for the Sawhorses. They are made from Ash.
Excellent video accept for the auto focus,but your a carpenter not a videographer , just a small question,why didn't you follow the 1/3 rules of wood width for the tenon
Hi Stuart Our typical rule for tenon thickness is: Tenon thickness = 1/4 timber width. In this case the timber is 8” x 8” so the Tenon is 2”. I think you’ll find that 2” tenon on an 8x8 is very typical. Hope this helps.
The Barr slick is great! You won’t be disappointed! Caution - the handle can come out of the slick, manage accordingly!! Also Tormek does a superb sharpening job when needed. I have a concrete floor so our rule of thumb is the sheath always stays on if not in use.
Thank you for the comment. My intent was to share the kerfing method. (This is a shouldered, tapered tenon so we kerf. For straight tenons, we use the Mafell bandsaw. I discourage the drop cut method in the shop). PS I like your work!
@@theMainetimberframer So the shoulder is haunched? Even then I still drop cut with the blade set to the shortest distance and just pop off the remainder. Why discourage the drop cut? Yes it can be tricky but with practice its fast and efficient. For years I hand sawed the shoulder and chopped the waste away with my axe, which is very similar to the kerf method and about as fast. Have you seen my French Snap method. its not for the faint of heart . use clear straight grain for best results. ruclips.net/video/uDyLQuBgLRA/видео.html
You have the Makita 5402 so I am curious why you bouhght the Skilsaw spt 55 instead of a Prazi attachment for the Makita. Prazi is $150 vs the $700 for the skilsaw
Hi John I have a prazi too. For me, I can’t say much good about the prazi. I had it set up on a dedicated makita skill saw, but did not get the quality cut I need for straightness and squareness. The prazi has very limited chain adjustment and must be oiled manually. The skilsaw is a much more refined machine with straight cuts, self oiler. Still not perfect, probably the Mafel is but the skilsaw works well for me. I use it for all my 8x8 cuts these days knowing that the skilsaw finish is never visible meaning: End cut 8x8 with skilsaw spt, cut tenon shoulders with makita 5402, cheek cut tenons with mafel bandsaw, round tenon with router. Virtually the is no evidence of a spt cut when done with a tenon…. And with the spt, the is one cut with no rotation of the timber necessary
Thank you for sharing, you are a very good teacher of wood working, wow
Thank you!
Master workmanship
Thank you!
Nice work .
When the tenon's that short, I'd say it's more efficient to just cut the cheek with the circular saw, too.
My intent was to demonstrate the kerf method.
sweet video, I am going to do a side by side comparison with my chisel and hand saw vs this method. I learned to do it with the chesel first to become better with the chisel and understand the wood and its reaction. I think using this method is great for time if you are new, but like most things with power tools you can loose some fundamentals. Keep up the great vids!!
thank you!
Oh and interesting centering jig.
Hi Timberdoodles:
I put together a video on the construction of the centering jig. Once you make one, you’ll wonder why you centered any other way!
Also
You can change out the 2”
Rule to any other size needed. I have a 3” I use to center post stub tenons on the bottom of posts going into sills.
The 3” I made from a piece of 1/4” luan
Well, this is odd, i was just sanding a 4m beam of Oak after someone cut tenons into it. Then this is the top video...
Thank you.
You're welcome!
How did you make the saw horses? A video???? What’s the measurements
Do you like the hight?
Hi Larry
Go to Facebook: Timber frame company - R. Jemithan Timber frame company.
There is a post on
March 31 2019 of the cut outs for the Sawhorses.
They are made from Ash.
Excellent video accept for the auto focus,but your a carpenter not a videographer , just a small question,why didn't you follow the 1/3 rules of wood width for the tenon
Hi Stuart
Our typical rule for tenon thickness is:
Tenon thickness = 1/4 timber width.
In this case the timber is 8” x 8” so the Tenon is 2”.
I think you’ll find that 2” tenon on an 8x8 is very typical.
Hope this helps.
Auto focus?
Your comment is warranted - I’m using an apple phone for vids….. no focus once you start a vid. I’ll have to look into a better camera ‘mouse trap’!
@@theMainetimberframer Great information, I just ordered a Barr slick.
The Barr slick is great! You won’t be disappointed! Caution - the handle can come out of the slick, manage accordingly!!
Also Tormek does a superb sharpening job when needed.
I have a concrete floor so our rule of thumb is the sheath always stays on if not in use.
Thanks. Your camera was out of focus a lot. Interesting video.
Hi Harry: Your comment about the camera is warranted. I'm changing the camera mode as I move forward to improve camera focus. Thank-you
You can drop cut those tenon faces just off the line and finish it with the slick, skipping the kerf method.
Thank you for the comment. My intent was to share the kerfing method. (This is a shouldered, tapered tenon so we kerf. For straight tenons, we use the Mafell bandsaw. I discourage the drop cut method in the shop).
PS I like your work!
@@theMainetimberframer So the shoulder is haunched? Even then I still drop cut with the blade set to the shortest distance and just pop off the remainder. Why discourage the drop cut? Yes it can be tricky but with practice its fast and efficient. For years I hand sawed the shoulder and chopped the waste away with my axe, which is very similar to the kerf method and about as fast. Have you seen my French Snap method. its not for the faint of heart . use clear straight grain for best results.
ruclips.net/video/uDyLQuBgLRA/видео.html
Tap,tap taperoo.That is what Ineed!
God dude it was painful to watch. Drop cut the tenon clean up with a slick and be done.
I hear you - drop cutting is a faster method for sure. I demonstrated the kerf method for those that don’t have as much experience.
You have the Makita 5402 so I am curious why you bouhght the Skilsaw spt 55 instead of a Prazi attachment for the Makita. Prazi is $150 vs the $700 for the skilsaw
Hi John
I have a prazi too. For me, I can’t say much good about the prazi. I had it set up on a dedicated makita skill saw, but did not get the quality cut I need for straightness and squareness. The prazi has very limited chain adjustment and must be oiled manually. The skilsaw is a much more refined machine with straight cuts, self oiler. Still not perfect, probably the Mafel is but the skilsaw works well for me. I use it for all my 8x8 cuts these days knowing that the skilsaw finish is never visible meaning:
End cut 8x8 with skilsaw spt, cut tenon shoulders with makita 5402, cheek cut tenons with mafel bandsaw, round tenon with router. Virtually the is no evidence of a spt cut when done with a tenon….
And with the spt, the is one cut with no rotation of the timber necessary