The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen
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- Опубликовано: 27 ноя 2024
- Alexander McQueen was once the biggest designer in the world. Every season the company was the hottest ticket and noone could wait to see what spectacular they would put on next. But mostly due to personal problems the company abruptly changed focus and became corporate, slick and far more commercial; though that doesn't mean it's been unsuccessful. Sarah Burton has turned McQueen from a big buzzy brand into a reliable seller for their parent company Kering and though SS24 was her final collection, she has set the company up phenomenally well to be Kering's next big star brand, and hopefully she will be very sorely missed as a result
Life and Death of Lee Alexander McQueen: • The Life and Death of ...
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Andrew Wilson - Alexander McQueen: Blood Beneath The Skin: amzn.to/3N2P5E5
Anne Deniau - Love Looks Not with the Eyes: Thirteen Years with Lee Alexander McQueen: amzn.to/47vUnjN
Claire Wilcox - Alexander McQueen: amzn.to/49QTzHH
Dana Thomas - Gods and Kings: amzn.to/3sOMdUm
Judith Watt - Alexander McQueen: The Life and the Legacy: amzn.to/3N0emyE
Karen Homer - The Little Book of Alexander McQueen: The story of the iconic brand: amzn.to/3RgbP64
Katherine Gleason - Alexander McQueen: Evolution: amzn.to/41brJCh
Kristin Knox - Alexander McQueen: Genius of a Generation: amzn.to/4a6T1xJ
LIFE AND DEATH OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: ruclips.net/video/5CY1fkAWprE/видео.html
This is officially my 50th brand covered on the channel! Very happy it ended up being the McQueen video, the spring show was so good and I spent so much time on this video. I just wanted to say ty to everyone thats supported the channel so far, its been great to be able to learn and share with you all
Hey, make it a six part series. If I know anything about the internet is that we love a series. Think Jeffree Star and Shane Dawson's series for their makeup palettes. They could still be more concentrated than what goes over on Patreon, but since you already have the research and the script why waste the hard work. (religious almost cultish fan of your page btw)
@@anidhiman3108 unfortunately it doesn't work as well for informational videos as it does for those dramatised tv show-like videos. But, Im not saying I wont ever release the stupidly long version, I just know I wont release it first, it'll depend on the reaction to the video tbh
@@understitchYT ok smart.
Also the exhibit here in columbia sc.
Omg congratulations!!!!! It’s been my fave so far, I’ve listened repeatedly. Thank you for all 50!!❤️🙏🏻❤️
LEE never fell, he went out an icon rather than a forgotten designer- though I do wish he had stayed a little bit longer and shared more of his genius. He was one of the greatest to ever come near fabric and thread (which many designers don’t even do).. a legend, one of the greatest!
I couldnt agree more, such a true talent taken from the world too soon
Low-key his history has made me shift my focus from fashion design to pattern cutting as a viable career, I love and appreciate the craftsmanship that goes behind making garments but a part of me can’t help but gravitate like a moth to a flame towards the artistry of designing with a narrative
He passed on at his peak. A true genius. Shame on you for the misleading title.
@@IoannisPapposI think she's talking about the brand.
wow great im not the only one who commented the same thing . Lee never fell . CHANGE THIS SHAMEFUL TITLE
The timing of this video couldn't be better, after Sarah's departure news! I was so disappointed back then when Sarah took over the brand and the shows were lacking the drama and theatricality. However i always watched what she presented and slowly but surely i started appreciating her skills, garments, leather jackets, color palettes, even if the shows were boring. No idea who the next designer will be, but if they wanna revive the house, he or she has to bring back the SHOCK value cleverly combined with commerciality as the great founder Alexander McQueen brilliantly did so and gained our FOREVER love, respect and devotion...🖤
Couldnt agree more, she won me over with time too and I hope the next designer could bring that drama to the brand once more. But I wonder who it could be
Congratulations my dear! Keep up the good work, you’ve been an incredible channel to watch grow ❤️ xx
I just watched the last show that Sarah did and I thought it was not only beautiful but it had Lee's spirit in it, although as you said not the genius. It is going to be almost impossible to do that because it is something that is in you.
@@MeganKeith-lh2ec I really wonder what direction are they gonna take with the new designer. Are they gonna stick with Lee's distinguished vision and tailoring or are they gonna go the opposite way? Very hard though, to beat what Sarah has brought on the runway all these years.
@@petzezos wasn't Sean McGirr announced as creative director yesterday? He made stuff at jw Anderson I think, I wonder if he will change his style up drastically for McQueen
"Because he was extra smart, he designed clothes that could be worn." Bold and innovative.
Youd be amazed at how unique that is 🤷 its a hard line to walk, being artistic and wearable
Sarah Burton is who Chanel wanted Virginie Viard to be. I would also argue that producing commercial or stripped back collections was a necessity for the furst few seasons after McQueen's death, so the public or the fashion press (who criticise everything that moves unless they are being paid not to) would be assuaged that the brand and Gucci group were not being disrespectful. I'm not sure just how much news media reported the cause of his death but if Gucci went ahead with massive shows and big expansion so soon after his death - which was a big reason for his lack of enthusiasm about the industry - I don't think many people would countenance that.
I think you make a great point actually, there was no way for them to do big shows without him respectfully, so it was multilayered in its effectiveness. But I also think it’s commendable that she was able to produce her own aesthetic while being true to his aesthetic at the same time, that could not have been an easy thing, especially not easy to keep it commercial
McQueen is my favorite designer of all time. There was an exhibition this summer in my city (the one originally created by the LACMA, Mind Mythos Muse), and it felt like Christmas being in the presence of his magnificent creations. I love your videos so much, they are incredibly well made and captivating !! I am excited for the Life of Lee video and I'm looking forward to it.
ah Melbourne lol ?
Oh thats fantastic, his work is so striking Id love to see it again, youre so lucky. Im really glad you liked the video and hopefully the life and death will be even better 🥰
Rest In Power Lee Alexander McQueen. I saw his exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria and my goodness, I was blown away. So many different influences in all his collections. The blend of east with aesthetics of punk really spoke to me. There was a section that really resonated with me. It was his spring/summer 2000 collection ‘Eye’ that really made an impact for me. As I walked into the Turkish inspired room, with a haunting rendition of classical turkish dance music blaring, I was immediately transported back to Istanbul in the year 1999 where I visited as a child. It was such a spellbinding moment. That trip to Turkey actually ignited my love for fashion. From the homemade clothing markets to the textiles factories I got to visit, I was absolutely blown away as a child. Years later, I remember wearing an embellished and jewelled headpiece at the tender age of 13 when I got to experiment more freely with fashion. I adore fashion and I believe that it’s a medium that gives you the chance to really express yourself and who you are. Not for others, but for yourself. That’s why I find it really odd when men say women dress for them when that’s totally not the case. I remember feeling energised and charged up in my bejewelled headpiece in conjunction with my silk brown flowing skirt. Fashion gives us an outlet to experiment and to dare try different things. It’s even so much more than that, words can’t really express how I feel about it and I’m sure many others feel the same. I think for a lot of people, we related to McQueens storytelling and inner conflict and creativity clashing. He was a once-in-a-lifetime creative, we will not know another McQueen. Fashion is forever in my heart as is the works and creations of Alexander McQueen.
I hope we do get another McQueen one day, I'd love to see the world of fashion and art combine once again
Ahhh McQueen... I have awaited for you to do this video. I respected him soooo much, but have never owned anything by him (don't know why!). I have been intrigued by him and his story since his Graduation Collection.... I admired him and his story inclusive of the legacy he left behind.
As usual, thank you so much for your research and your time. Another much appreciated video. Thank you.
Im so glad you enjoyed it! I also dont own a tonne from McQueen but I once saw a very very early mcqueen jacket, I think it was from SS94 actually, but Im sure it was made a bit later becuase of the tag, in a VINTAGE SHOP FOR £100 and I didnt buy it. Genuinely one of my biggest regrets ever, I still have the photos of it
He was the reason I fell in love with fashion about 15 years ago... I wrote my studies degree work about his art. Which was the first one in Poland 10 years ago, where I live. Watching just a sec ago last Sarah's show was such an emotional experience... Clothes and collection so stunning, music, scenography. Lee would be really proud of Her.
I will never remember the moment I found out about him passing by, that was such a hard day. Thank you for this video and all your work. You are an unique being. Such an inspiring materials, done just from pure love. Wow. 🖤🖤🖤
He inspired a whole generation of people, an absolute genius, aren’t we so lucky to have experienced his work in real time?
@@understitchYT Totally. 🖤 Truły one of a kind.
I knew him when he use to work in Selina Blows basement in Belgravia. He was very bashful and shy!
I don’t like his clothes! I did like his menswear, I have some of his pieces! My favourites were Galliano and Margriela as well as Demulsteer
I hated those pants
brilliant work... as always here.
sarah burton really did right by lee mcqueen and she deserves all the respect and love she received at the end of her journey with the house. i can totally agree with the commenter who said she's what chanel hoped virginie viard would have been. she's the rarest of rare designers who was able to take over a house, maintain the true essence of it's larger than life namesake, but still infuse her own personality and aesthetic. that's probably due in large part to the slow progression of her aesthetic taking the forefront as lee's disillusion increased.
here's hoping that kering takes the time and has the sensibility to continue to do the right thing by lee, by bringing someone on with a respect for the legacy of the mcqueen name and customer.
I agree, I think sarah was really able to understand lees vision so truly that when it was time to present her own vision she knew how to do that perfectly.
Who do you think will take over? I really think McQueen is one of few labels that could have the whole staff bow at the end, or just noone and have it secret kind of like a modern day Margiela. I think its one of the few brands that could get away with it
@@hamitafsaid I honestly just think it was the juxtaposition of their work. At the time McQueen was the absolute hottest designer in the world, coming off of Plato's it was undeniable, so to die at the absolute height of his fame was extremely shocking. Anyone whatsoever, trying to follow that wouldve had a very hard time becuase it wasn't 'his'
@@hamitafsaid I completely agree with you. Like the other comment who said they hated Sarah at first because it wasn't as theatrical or dramatic as Lee's work is such an ignorant amateur point of view. If Sarah had done theatrics, i think it would be so contrived and disingenuous because she will never be Lee. Doing her own interpretation of Lee's design DNA and showing it in a relatively subdued manner is much more authentic as well as more respectful to Lee's legacy. Basically, she's not trying to outdo his work which are immortal.
Another great video; definitely haute couture and not pret a porter! I live in the East End of London and it is strange that so many people in the local area; Stratford in particular, are unaware that he is arguably their greatest homegrown talent. It would be good to ultimately see some form of visible and permanent tribute there as it is indeed an inspiring story, given the working class/industrial origins of the area. One final observation... I'm assuming that we can no longer say 'suicide' on RUclips?! 'Self-unlive-ing'! That's where we've come to; avoiding words that may upset people, to create new words that mean the same thing.
I think he was brought up in Lewisham no? Also yeah McQueen would be amazing at couture
But the self unaliving terms arent to not offend people its to not offend the algorithm. Its testy at all times so we are all just trying to avoid that, it has nothing to do with offending real people
I really like this channel's concept of fashion analysis. This episode was really enjoyable and added a lot of my understanding of Lee McQueen and his work. I personally don't get the ousting of Sarah Burton; she had the talent and experience to continue the values and viewpoint and spirit of Lee McQueen; I could see something of him in every piece she produced.
Yeah she 100% could have continued but I guess at the end of the day its all about making money and getting in a fresh face is the easiest way to do that 🤷
I know. You did a fabulous job on this documentary. @@understitchYT
I get it because corporations suck. Once a corner needs turning, they just do it, quality goes out the window.
I’ve worked for soulless corps…different industry but they ‘act’ the same.
So true; it's all just become power and money. Maybe this is ignorant, but all the fashion designers I know about want to do their own work, not somebody else's. Selling yourself out to a corporation to try to imitate someone else sounds like a real soul sucking way to go.
I so feel you. I have many friends in this exact position where you can really the whole nightmare from the inside. @@p_nk7279
Plato's Atlantis....one of the most moving and spectacular things I have ever seen.
I still get emotional when I watch it. Just think what could of been 💔
Oh its phenomenal right? I regret so bad being a poor young child when it came out because I wouldve bought something
It's funny that both Lee and Galliano didn't want to be designers, but both made such a huge contribution
Its almosr like that advice from Lynn Yaeger "if you want to get into fashion learn about anything else"
what ? lol alexander mcqueen REALLY wanted to be involved in clothesmaking . galliano wanted to be a painter .
I love your videos. Thanks for covering my favorite designer. I'm surprised you didn't mention the Savage Beauty exhibition after his death was one of the V&A's most successful paid-for exhibitions.
Im keeping it for the life and death video, this one just got too long 🥰
Love love love this video! I’ve done some binge watching and finally subscribed. Still can’t understand why you don’t have millions of subscribers though, I can hear how passionate for fashion you are from your videos! ❤
Well I've only been going for a year so far, so there's still time and theres still room for my skill growth too imo. I'd like to get better at editing and better at audio too. Ill get there, but I couldn't be more thrilled with the audience I've found so far, I couldn't have asked for more :)
@@understitchYT wow, the quality of the videos is already beyond to me! Brava!
Just saw the show an hour ago. I have been waiting for this video.
I was ready to upload so immediately after the show but I got a copyright warning so I had to re-edit a section 😓
@@understitchYT I love your videos, thank you for your hard work.
I appreciate your fashion journalism and your ability to bring to light such pertinent information that most of us are not privy to. I, as many of us, stand in tip-toe anticipation to find out who’s got next! This is very exciting!
Im so glad you enjoyed the video! Next should be Peter Do when the Banana Republic collection is released 🥰
It's becoming more and more frequent that I'm embarrassed by British lack of vision and willingness to invest in the future. Hand them a high-culture superstar on a plate and let them invest for virtually nothing and it's snubbed. Shameful.
Congratulations on number 50!
Oh, same, the way that Britain has handled fashion is really abysmal, of the four big global brands that we have had come from England in recent years, only one of those was not from an extremely wealthy family (Simone Rocha, Victoria Beckham, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen)
Thank you for this video 👏👏👏 Sarah is an amazing designer and creative, I feel she was an editor in terms of McQueens earlier work she knew how to make it Comercial and "digestible" for fashion normies. Sarah will be missed and I hope she finds a new fashion home, she is a rare talent in knowing how to commercialize avant gande ideas that's a talent in its own
Im so glad you watched the whole thing, she really does deserve more flowers because she was so successful at exactly what she was tasked to do
@@understitchYT she really put McQueens aesthetics into a commercial form
Lee was above all a truly gifted and hard working artist who pursued and explored his vision, celebrated his imagination and excelled in his craft and passion beyond stardom, beyond his work and beyond his name. He was very special and it showed in his creations.
You can’t replace him with someone else, it will never be the same again.
He didn’t want his name to last forever, though, that is quite well documented, I just hope they can get someone equally as theatrical
If Galliano was the genius, McQueen was GOD! Back in the days, the thrill to watched a McQueen namesake brand or Givenchy shows was epic! I was fan of Lee's work: He was raw, creative, perfectionist, conceptual, he define not only once a new fashion - siluette, he even came up with a new shape of shoe: the Armadillo Boots. Watching your exquisite video has left me speechless and not knowing were I could start 'cos now my head has exploded with teen/tween memories. Thank you for another exceptional video you scheduled perfectly to aired in such an emotional day for the brand.
The difference between the two was the McQueen was able to understand how to run a business and communicate his vision to a consumer, Galliano was literally never able to do that. They were both extremely creative and theatrical, but Gallianos refusal so do anything for his consumer was a real problem, his immaturity cost him what McQueen now has, a luxury brand that will far outlive himself
Woke up this morning to this beauty. What a great job you did again, again,and this time for 46.05 minutes! I have huge respect for Mcqueen going back to my youth in the 1990’s and have seen the documentries flotting around, but your video is by far the best and most relatable. Well done again, again!
Im so glad you enjoyed it! Theres a looootttt of content on McQueen, even full real documentaries are on YT, but everyone loves him so I cant complain 😅
For me it the rise and rise of Alexander McQueen i think sarah burton was the perfect successor she did very well to keep his legacy going. Btw great video as always ❤
I’m so glad you like it, for me personally, I also think it was a rise and rise, but there’s certainly an argument to be made because of how different the presentations were, I think that’s why the vote went the way it did
Just to say Thanks for replying to my comments, fascinating vids and I’m enjoying so much!
I try so hard to reply to all comments, but I dont get notifications for them all, its quite annoying actually, because I love comments
I love McQueen runways, it really paints a new reality in front of you. It was a great video to remember all his work.
Im so glad you got to relive them 🥰
Of all the videos I have watched about Lee in the last couple of years, this was the best. I would even venture to say it is even more informative than, or at least supplementary to, the 2018 documentary. Very well researched, elegant, and simply enjoyable to watch! Superb job on this video essay! Immediate subscribe.
Thank you so much! I loved that documentary so thats a huge compliment, but i cant wait for you to see the life and death video because its even more information jammed in
I'm looking forward to it! Can't wait!!!@@understitchYT
Watching this again as a recap after Sean McGirr’s debut collection last week. There’s been a lot of hate for his new collection. I admit I have yet to adjust to it but it will take time. People say the rawness and dark elements of McQueen have gone. And part of it has, it’s a new age for the brand. People keep comparing him to Sarah Burton, but her designs were also different to Lee’s, focusing heavily on nature. In my opinion the truth is McQueen’s original artistry died with him. His genius cannot be replicated. Sarah introduced her own take on McQueen’s ideas. This was not a bad thing, change is inevitable. After 14 years it’s time for that to happen again. Excited to see where Sean will take this brand.
I think the thing for me, is that usually after period where there is a particularly creative head, there is a time of real commercialism to try to make as much money off of that memory as they can. To me, that was Sarah Burton. She was picked by McQueen, did it very commercially, and she made money for the company. I was expecting to have a new creative head at the top to take it in a dramatic direction once again, even though the name still has a lot of equity and there is still good memory of his design on which to capitalise. For some reason I was expecting that. That wasn’t delivered, instead we got an even further commercialised vision, and I think that’s where the disappointment came from.
I like to give everything three tries to convince me, food, design, art anything. So I will look forward to his next couple collections, but I can’t lie that I wasn’t disappointed
Amazing documentary congratulations! I have been a fan of Lee and his art since I was a teenager. I was able to purchase a skull scarf a few years ago and it is my favorite most treasured accessory.
I think the life and death video will be coming out this weekend, so I hope you enjoy that too 🥰
Thank you for this video. So informative as usual and beautifully put together. ❤
Im so glad you enjoyed it, thank you for commenting
Between Patreon and RUclips, this is my third time through this excellent video! I learn something new each time. Thank you❤️
Im so glad you love it, tysm. I hope youre enjoying the life video too, Im working on it bit by bit but the next part should be coming soon (chapter 6)
I am!! Looking forward to the next part.
I've been looking forward to this...
i hope you liked it!!
@@understitchYT I did! Your videos are always so well researched, and you truly always come across as though you know exactly what you are talking about (probably because you do!)
You took the words right outta my mouth
Your commentry is always very insightful thank you!
Thank you for this episode, Alexander McQueen is my favourite fashion house!
Im so glad you enjoyed it 😇
mcqueen has such a quintessential fashion story, so much to feel about and take from for anyone starting to get into fashion or even deep in it. Appreciate the work and cited sources as always. Congrats on the 50th brand covered I’ll be here for the 100th
I really agree, he was an amazing designer, bloody fantastic, business person, and seem to always know how to make that longevity in his business. Just brilliant
I’ve been patiently waiting for this video to drop!
Next time impatient 😂😂
i absolutely love this channel and how informative it is. very informative and entertaining, just like how Tim Blanks was on Fashion File when he hosted.
Oh I love tim blanks, tysm for the comparison
Cool video I just looked this up because I wanted to know all about him as much as I could… I just bought $115 shades and I thought they were part of Gucci shades 😎🥂
That makes me so happy, I hope you learnt a lot
Bye bye Alexander 😢 May you find the peace needed. His outro creations before his untimely death was filled with such vibrancy and oppulance. So sad to hear he departing by the endearing legacy with depression kicks in and who-knows-what issues he be getting upon. His legacy lives on... Plenty of friends and celebrities showing their support and quite instantaneously don his gowns to pay respect. Great designer imo
His funeral was particularly sad for that reason for sure, such a shame
OMG this video is so rich in information, THANK YOU.
Youre verh welcome, I love doing it all 🥰
Hey thanks for this great information
And please release the longer version.
The short version of his life and death isnt even out yet 😂😂 but Ill still take it as my first vote nonetheless
I don’t think it’s fair that she was ousted just because GG wanted a refresh of the label. She steered the brand into being commercial without losing sight of the codes of her predecessor. Lee’s genius I imagine can only go so far. The drama may be great for press but this is a business after all. It’s more frustrating that those who clearly have zero respect for their brand’s heritage are still allowed to be Creative Director in their houses (looking at you MGC).
It makes sense though, it happens in every house with every designer, extremely few are able to go from being show stopping to commercial without huge backlash from critics (even lee mcqueen got quite harsh critics when his collections went more commercial)
I would love if Galliano become the next MCQueen designer - that would be perfect mix for me - fashion drama, bold couture, creativity and pinch of unexpected.
Its been announced! Its Seán McGirr!!
So excited for this rise and fall episode 🥰
Hope you enjoyed it 🥰
@@understitchYT Loved it!
As usual 🥰
Love listening into your channel. Would you be able to prepare a video on Isabella Blow too? I know she wasn't a fashion designer, but her role and influence in fashion was monumental (incl assisting McQ to rise).
I actually have her books, I was thinking about doing a life and death on her as well, but I didn’t know how many people would be interested
@@understitchYT I'd say there's definitely a following, from the fashion orientated people I spreak to. But she certainly was fringe, as she didn't exactly bide by the rules! Thank you all the same for your research and fantastic production into insights into the fashion world.
I read one of the bios about Isabella, but I’d be happy to see your perspective on her! Without question she was an influencer. Thank you for this beautiful work on Lee. New sub
thank you so much for yours inspiring videos! im a fashion design students and words cant underline how much youre channel is helpfull ❤
Im so glad you enjoy them 🥰
As always an amazing video! I loved Sarah Burton's work, I was hoping for more!
Im glad you like it, tysm, I honestly wasnt a huge fan at first but she really won me over after her first couple collections and I ended up being a huge admirer
@@understitchYT I always respected that she kept the brand's core and identity without copying Lee's imagery or sacrificing her individual vision. Such a hard task for a brand as conceptual as McQueen!
Thank you so much for this video. I love it!
Im so glad you enjoyed it
Hey, thank you so much for this amazing and informativ video! I'm currently very obsessed with the fashion world and especially Alexander McQueen and have been looking for videos like this which explain the designers and their brands development in-depth. Thanks for all the research. Definitely am gonna check out more of your videos :)
Im glad to hear you enjoyed it, hopefully his life and death video will be out soon and there will be even more info 🥰
The research that goes into these videos… much respect.
Thank you so much
Excellent+ I had always wondered if Sarah had worked so closely with him but to find out she helped put shows together and in some cases shows that I have researched and loved, is simply wonderful.
You don't know what you don't know.
She really was such a positive force behind the brand. Though its true noone had the creative excellence and technical ability combo of McQueen, she learnt everything she could from him and in turn made it saleable. A very important person indeed
McQueen was a genius fr, the fact of his first show being
for his sister is beautiful
It was such a shame the way the media span that, but it was definitely intentional, so I can’t say it was that much of a shame
Yet another brilliant video on such an icon. Thank you for doing it) Btw because Mcqueen was citied in the previous videos I thought we already had a video about Mcqueen)). Heh
I’ve been working on it for six months that’s why 😂
I'm not really into fashion, but I really like was McQueen was creating, which hard a darker aesthetic. Really enjoyed his choice of music for his shows, too.
His shows feel so real and authentic in a way like no other
I'd love to see an extended version or book of this,.I love your in depth research.
Im still working on both! The audio is done at 5 hours, but Im adding whole chapters into the book so its taking a while to finish. Ill probbaly release both at the same time 🤍
I literally love this channel!!!
Thank you so so much 🥰
Sarah buttons last show for McQueen was a node to Alexander with her tailored suit and stunning dresses it was a show stopper and she will be missed by all wishing her her own success in her new future 🎉
I really hope that for her too, I wonder so often where she will go or what she will do
Lee and McQueen as a brand, is one those things that are unique in a lifetime, his artistry and genius is UNMATCHED, and I only can think of one or two people that rival Lees genius today.
I totally agree, extremely few others have ever done whT he has
@@understitchYT no other designer can say what Lee di through his collections. You hit it perfectly by saying people took his collections at face value without understanding the true meaning behind it, even when specifically pointed to it. To me, the ultimate form of couture is taking the clothes you design and let them speak for themselves, expressing everything you want to say with them, not just a shock value gimmick that puts you on the map, and that's what most designers do, at least the majority that have opportunities with the big houses/brands, and that's what making current couture fashion more of a better quality version of fast fashion, instead of the artistry that, to me, ended in the late '00s.
Amazing content as always, well researched and immersive... If you ever find time or interest, try to cover some Japanese designers or brands - not saying this as a knock to any of your current content but quite the opposite; I am interested and, considering your dedication and approach, you're the person I want to 'learn from' (haha)...
I very very much want to do japanese brands, theyll likely come around a similar time tho too because there will be a lot of cultural research to do
I want a ‘Rise and Fall and Rise’ haha of Kate Moss!
I have an art project in mind re Kate Moss, garnering inspo from the many images of her still to be found around NYC.
It's definitely on the books, Im actually trying to work with Chani Ra who is a tiktokker that covers models careers, simply because she knows more than me, so Im quite excited for our partnership if that does come to fruition
I still have magazines with her on the cover from 2006, when I was 15 years-old. She had such a fascination for both my generation and the one before us. It’s impossible to explain how cool Kate Moss would seem to an American teenager. Even wear blue or green Wellington boots from Saks Fifth Avenue when it rains to this day. I get them as Christmas presents sometimes. And my husband is obsessed with the McQueen skull print scarf. Kate Moss was so unrivaled. Back then we loved NOT knowing what was going on with alluring, talented people. And Kate was the best at not explaining herself or worrying about rumours!
Amazing video! Your work is always so interesting ❤
Thank you so much 🥰
i love my idol, thank you dear for this little documentary, my favorite collecion was her last theafter her death the angels and death collection iconic and many more like platos atlantis, especialy from 2005-to date :D
She really is such a talented designer, I hope that she gets more chance to shine at another label (if she wants that, of course)
@@understitchYT i hope to, to be honest after mcqueens death, it was difficult to accept mcqueen collections with Burton, in rhe first collections i say "this is Not mçqueen" the theatrical was missing. But after years, i told "okay" especialy the Red Rose dress was my burtons favorite.
And hope to shine in another Label or her own Label .
One of your best episodes. I believe it was tough to summarize Lee's work. I enjoyed every second of it.
omg it was so bloody tough, I had to leave so much out and then I regretted things I cut and added them back in, it was awful. Even just filming this took a lot of lemon tea hahaha
my favourite designer ever, VOSS will always be my favourite show
I was so shocked to find out just how much of that show was down to Sarah Burton
Fun fashion fact - Tom Ford directed an amazing movie: ‘A Single Man’ starring Colin Firth, who was nominated for an Oscar! Great flick, I recommend it.
Such crossover talent, I’m floored…
I have a video on his brand :)
I hope they appoint Dilara Fındıkoğlu as the new creative director, she would be so respectful to his memory, and is the perfect fit
Only posted two hours ago, and it’s already aged 😂
I thought she would have suited it as well
@@citizen3079 So did I
Another exquisitely researched video! What do you think fueled the press’ dislike of McQueen? I was hoping you’d talk a bit about that
100% it was classism but isabella wasnt wrong that his personal appearance didnt help with that. He apparently smelled, had gingivitis and dressed in a way that played into their classist beliefs. Its not his fault, of course, but all of that didnt help in the flagrant classism
@@understitchYT Yeah, and I suspect his mutual and vocal criticism of them didn’t help either (lol). Thanks for clarifying
When you next get to London, I hope you can get to the Design Museum in Holland Park. The Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion has a small room where they try to recreate the lost show. It’s pretty fascinating.
I would love to see it honestly, it looks amazing from Ungless’ videos
fantastic video as always. now i have to watch the 2018 mcqueen doc again. think this will be my 4th viewing :)
There are a lot of documentaries actually, I really like the BBC one because it talks to his family in great depth, I think it’s on RUclips now too
@@understitchYT I just love the soundtrack of 2018 one. The jack the ripper segment always gives me chills.
Another brilliant delivery!
Thank you so much, I very much enjoyed making it 😇
I literally get smarter in terms of fashion and the industry with each video you put out. I agree with another commenter that I am surprised you are not over 100K subs yet. Especially since I tell anyone I know who loves fashion about your channel. 🙌
Oh thank you so much! Spreading the word is so kind! Im hoping to hit 100k in the next year or so honestly, but the last couple of months have been a bit slower than previous so Im currently looking into what I changed to be less favourable to the algo, which Im thinking may be the length of videos, but Im not 100%
I always learn sooo much from your videos!
I'm so glad! 🥰
Not a fashionista by any means but have enjoyed your informational videos on various designers (Chanel, Doir, etc..). Thanks.
Im so glad to hear that thank you🙌
@understitchYT You're most welcome. It's an interesting blend of art, commerce, history and culture. Best wishes with your future work.
Surely I did not just hear you say “unaliving” 🙃 what a sanitized term of phrase to describe a tragedy
the algorithm is all powerful, one must comply with monetisation bots 🤖
And congratulations on the 50!
Im so happy about it!!
I think Riccardo Tisci could be named as successor. He has built up a reputation and is a big enough name to fill in the gap. Also his aesthetic is fitting, when I think back what he did for Givenchy woman
yeah maybe, but I really didnt enjoy his Givenchy, just personally, so I low key hope not
I have been waiting for this video and it did not disappoint! I also just received the Alexander McQueen book published by Andrew Bolton which encapsulates the Savage Beauty exhibition put on by the Metropolitan Costume Institute. He is one of my top favorite designers. I love learning about his artistry.
Oh thw andew bolton book is great! Let me know when youve finished it
My favourite was the horn of plenty! Amazing ❤❤❤❤❤ so cutting edge ❤️
It was absolutely incredible, he worked very hard on that collection
I know they do dolls, but the Poppovy sisters are soooo perfect. To be fair, they actually have a fashion background, so I know they could do it. Their aesthetic is beyond perfect and they know how to bring the ethereal aspect to it that Burton never did, while also keeping the punk side as well. They do it in an updated, contemporary way, too.
Theyve named a successor now! Its seán mcgill
Love your videos. You think you can do content on Maison Margiela since Galliano took over?
I relly really want to
Those original pieces being stored in rubbish bags and thrown out are the stuff Greek tragedies are made of. 😮
Its pretty similar to Prometheus ngl 🤷
MY FAVORITE DESIGNER 💗
You have great taste
McQueen WILL make a FULL ON COMEBACK and it will break necks!
I extremely extremely hope so (and expect so too)
Thanks!
Youre the best ❤️❤️❤️❤️
The timing!
Oh I was WAITING
John Galliano should be the new creative director
Omg plot twist of the century (would be fucking iconic tho)
No one is more worthy than him. But I doubt he will accept, both been compared and rivals and are equals that it would be awkward... it's like if Karl took over Saint Laurent.
Excellent job again!
Thank you so much Martijn
I wish someone loved me as much as understitch loves a "hoWEver" transition
I wish I could pin two comments HOWEVER, I cannot
You know whats so funny is I really talk like that in real life and my friends and family constantly tease me for it (I think its so funny, I dont intend to stop)
@@understitchYT I wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't watched almost all your videos ha ha
Met a guy who claimed to have designed the infamous skull print pattern that was used for the scarfs and other product whilst he was an intern at AQ (this was mid 2000s). Never got paid as an intern, nor got any recognition. He was pretty convincing and adamant that they ripped him off. I was also working as an intern at a well-known fashion magazine in London when news of his passing happened. Everyone downed tools and a small talk was given to honour him.
It wouldnt surprise me, thats really what interns are there for, to design fresh things for the label at a reduced cost to the company. He wasnt ripped off if he designed it for them, at an intership with them, but I understand how seeing how much money they made from him that he was pissed
I mean no harm, but it sounds to me that the guy didn't understand what an internship is. In most, if not all, internships, you're working under another's name. You gain the much needed experience at the cost of recognition. Unless this were a paid internship, it would have been highly unlikely that he would've been paid or his name be attached to that design. This is also subject to the their contract. The designer should've known that through either their education or their exposure to the design world. However, if they continue to create outstanding designs, perhaps they too could branch out. As many other designers had. I can only imagine the number of hit designs created by the, now, big names that went unrecognized or paid-for before they went out on their own. But I get it. It's heartbreaking when someone else is acknowledged for your work and you go unnoticed.
@@nkha23 So you're saying that internships are a scam job and an exploitative industry that takes advantage of interns' unpaid, unrecognised work to fatten its own purse and build its own glory in exchange for 'experience'. Is 'experience' the new 'we pay you in exposure'?
I'm not well-versed in fashion, but I can't think of anyone to take his place. Designers seem to be more on-the-ground and less "decadent" nowadays.
It will definitely be a tough decision
Would be amazing if John Galliano took over McQueen as creative director. Both are amazing in their craft.
I think more than the beautiful clothes thats still present, The theatrics and shocking and evoking haunting styling with ellaborate and macabre headpieces are whats causing the lack of story or intensity.. Pretty clothes are nice, but thats not what fueled his fans for the most part
Yes, Sarah was very much less theatrical, less dramatic than Lee and she also seems to do less free collaborations. For example, when Lee was alive, he would not tell the other designers around him how to do their work, he literally would not see the hats until an hour before the show for example, with Sarah, it feels more curated
Very well done piece.
Thank you so much, Im glad uou enjoyed it
Much Respect to Sarah!!!
100%
He never fell. He died young. One of the greatest of all time
Video is not about him as a person, its about the business. I have his life story coming 🤍
My prediction is that Dilara will take over McQueen, especially if they want to go bigger. She is a rising star and her dark aesthetic and presentation is reminiscent of Lee's work.
Theyve named a successor! Its Seán McGill!
I had great times working with Lea.
What did you do together? I googled your name but theres a few david james’ 🥰
I think Alexander McQueen is the perfect example of a tortured artist who got successful without taking the time to heal themselves. He seemed to be a terrible person and treated all his friends horribly, so it’s hard to feel sorry for him despite knowing how he was first victimized and failed by those around him. He’s lucky in a dark way, I’m certain if he’d lived past 2016 he’d have finally gotten called out and canceled for all his awful behavior.
I think we can hold people accountable while also acknowledging poor mental health is often the reason behind people behaving badly. Please look up your local suicide crisis line information and save it to your phone for yourself or someone else.
He was such a complicated person. From the SA he saw as a child that he never recovered from to having a sense of grandeur in his talent. He did awful things and certainly in my research for his life and death video I realised how bad the things he did were, but like you said, bad actions cannot solely be blamed on a harrowed past
I feel these later seasons 2015-2023 is nit bad in the least but I think lacks the Drama or story’s we could see Lee present, I love these new siluettes and more normal looks but…I really hope we get a bring back of the spectacular presentations in the future, like we can see now so manny Caleb’s in archive McQ and Beyoncé on tour
I do think it’s purposefully lacking that drama, though, I think that’s exactly what she was tasked to do. But now that she has gone I expect we’ll go back to that.
@@understitchYT yes yes exactly, she was tasked to do that but I still prefer her earliest shows 11-14, and I hope we get some if these McQ roots back now in the future
Christian Dior's New Look, with the wasp waist, premiered in 1948, not 1958.
Yes, youre right