*Vivienne Westwood* -I'm absolutely fascinated by the way she uses some fabrics back in her old 90s show (Not saying that her designs nowadays are bad but it's just that the 90s were way more superior and beautiful when it came to designing clothes. She literally broke barriers and rules and did whatever the hell she wanted too! :D *Guo Pei* -In my opinion she is really underrated, by really, I mean REALLY underrated, her works are the definition of a masterpiece and every single time I see a piece of her artwork I literally get speechless, I would love if would make a video on her!!!! *Gianni Versace* -The legend himself, He knows how to turn a simple dress into an Artwork, I mean look at his collection! The dresses might be made out of simple looking fabric (ik they aren't simple or low quality, but yk what I mean) into a Elegant, chic and Full of colorful touch in it, Its Gianni's secret magic, I believe that makes his dress sexy but at the same time modest and elegant. *Zuhair Murad* -He is also another underrated designer; His works are really feminine, and his works are mostly done in an elegant, beautiful way, The feminines in his work just feels really unique. *Blumarine* -Don't know much about the brand or old other works, But their collection is really playful, pop and the recent collections give me huge y2k vibe!! *Iris Van Herpen* -Do I have to tell????? EDIT 1: I forgot to add *William Travilla* He Designed Marlyin Monroe's most iconic outfit's and truly understood her! EDIT 2: *Park sohee* Aka Miss Sohee is a young couturier how I feel like knows how to play with fabric and shapes of the beautiful, splendid clothes she makes
GUO PEI is soo underrated her work is amazing. And without Vivienne is there Undercover ? N(N) ? Many more brands and styles she brought to the table ?
ALL THESE DESIGNERS ARE SO GOOD. The fact I didn’t even think of some is shameful 😩, Versace, Guo Pei, IRIS VAN HERPEN??? AHHHH, tho I think he might not have put iris in cause they’ve only been around for a short amount of time? Correct me if I’m wrong lol
Helmut Lang should be on this list. Not only for the minimalism and all the sick designs but he was the first to stream a collection on the internet and one of the first to do co-ed shows.
Strongly agree. And don't forget his photography. I was lucky enough to see a version of his table book when it first came out. Utterly stunning. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Jean Paul Gaultier, the OG enfant terrible. One of my favourite fashion designers. He got me hooked and to study fashion designing. Please do an in depth analysis /review on Gaultier.
- Jun Takahashi/Raf Simons/Vivienne Westwood should be on this list as masters of the crossover between fashion and youth culture - Helmut Lang should be on this list as the most prominent proponent of minimalism in designer fashion - Rick Owens should be on this list BECAUSE - Nigo should be on this list as the arguable creator of the streetwear business model - Hedi Slimane should be on this list because he imposed a very influential vision onto menswear in the early aughts (as much as I dislike anything he did past his tenure at Dior Homme) - Gianni Versace and Valentino Garavani should be on this list as proponents of an exquisitely Italian and Mediterranean vision of chic - Also, really no one from the Antwerp Six?
this! he needs to do a round two for sure, these you listed as a kid growing up in the 90s and got into mens fashion as I grew up, these are the staples of that.
*Iris Van Herpen* She's a current designer that I'd point to if I needed to demonstrate the use of nature to inspire design, from creating eco-friendly materials (including stuff like steel), to engineering moving (and wearable) garments and 3-D printing, and creating beautiful silhouettes. It's like nature meets technology and design.
(Intentional) omissions I noticed are Gaultier, Valentino, Westwood, Versace, Raf, Ann Demeulemeester, Philo, and Dries. I guess big commercial American designers like Calvin Klein, DVF, Kors, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger too, but they're a bit different lol. I would definitely love a dive into Maria and her success with sales in contrast to her critical popularity as well as talking about other brands and their relationship to profitability/business relative to quality creative output. I remember a fashion person saying that Akris makes TONS of money, which seemed so random but I guess they corner the rich lady market. Would love to learn more about that.
Westwood, Gaultier & Versace (both Gianni & Donatella) felt like the most obvious omissions from their cultural significance that extends beyond the clothes. You left out quite a few significant Americans: Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein & Donna Karan to name a few. Some less obvious choices but worth noting are Viktor & Rolf, RAF(!)…also the work of Miguel Adrover is often overlooked/under recognized in my humble opinion.
yeah. Raf. obviously purposely left out. he was not the first but was the strongest cultivator of subculture culture. something abloh attempted but never intended to sustain because of his sweet tooth.bliss, can you sort of divide motivation to be either culture or form? maybe why I look more to kawakubo, margiela, Raf, Takahashi.
I cant believe that Vivienne Westwood was left of the list, her designs used Harris Tweed, from the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, this in turn helped boost sales for Harris Tweed fundamentally saving the local industry of the islands. Using this fabric was also a nod and a middle finger to aristocratic ways of the UK.. Plus the fact she is a kick ass climate activist (one that doesn’t destroy art to make a hedland) … Jean Paul Gautier cheeky, provocative, chic, theatrical, and queer, plus i served Gautier a couple of drinks at the Beauchamp Hotel on Oxford Street Sydney way way way back in Mardi Gras 1999… i was like “OMG you’re Jean Paul Gautier!” …. He was like “shhhhhh”… he tipped well. In my mind i was all like Madonna Madonna Madonna … music has been a major roll in my fashion awakening, appreciation and appetite (even though I’m still a jeans and tshirt kinda guy) i guess the two go together here is an extreme example Morris Dancers.
• Jacques Fath (because he was the playful side of french fashion that Dior and Balmain revamped) • Charles Frederick Worth (the first to be considered a fashion designer) • Jeanne Lanvin (needless to explain, and her original logo says it all) • Edith Head (her influence is huge still today... ask Pixar) • Mary Quant (c’mon...) • Ossie Clark (the King) • Sonia Rykiel (knitwear anyone?) • Valentino (the one and only) • Paco Rabanne • André Courrèges (see Mary Quant) • Helmut Lang • Bill Blass • Kansai Yamamoto • Stephen Sprouse • Rudi Gernreich
Edith head though didn't have a house. Her influence is based upon the Hollywood glamour. On a bigger picture she didn't really have much influence. Bob macky i think is more influential.
@@reymondlongtable3030 But for audience reach, it's hard to beat the Old Hollywood Glamour Machine? I've always thought of Bob Macky as the kid Edith never had... - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Some other fashion titans - Sonia Rykiel, Pierre Balmain, Jeanne Lanvin, Charles Worth, Mariano Fortuny a.k.a OG pleats god, Mary Quant a.k.a give me everything mini, Diane Von Furstenburg, Gianni Versace, Thierry Mugler, Ann Lowe, Edith Head a.k.a the queen of Hollywood. Could go on but that’s what I love about fashion - so many great designers and different eras.
So I'm going to be a total nerd and suggest a couple of lesser known designers, Madame Gres and Emilie Flöge. Madame Gres specialised in pleating and was inspired by Grecian sculpture (I studied ancient history at uni so that really resonates). She peaked in the 1930s but when you look at some of her dresses they appear shockingly modern. Emilie Flöge is a bit of strange one (who I heard about in a Karolina Żebrowska video); it's hard to explain but if you Google her you'll see why she deserves attention. She was a fashion designer (based in Vienna rather than Paris) but I don't think her really unique pieces caught on (it's not even clear that she tried to promote or sell them). I accept that neither of these two are GOATs but I wanted to share with the group as they're both worth a look.
Walter Van Beirendonck. Pioneer in electronica (first one to put their shows on CD or make video games related to his work), casted plus size models and used his art to voice his opinions on NSFW stuff, all while creating some of the most insane shows and garments!
KENZO The only designer who credibly included nature and nature-inspired prints, as well Japanese flair for colour into modern fashion. Also Hanae Mori who became the first Japanese person to do couture in Paris.
Doesn't really make sense not to include Charles Frederick Worth. You even mentioned his house! The guy literally invented haute couture.... Also, Michael Kors. Wearable, somewhat affordable garments that, at least in my opinion, have changed American fashion to being very, very elegant
Good on you for just flat out saying Chanel was a Nazi. Not a sympathizer, not swept up in the hype, but someone who made decisions when she could have chosen a different path.
To be fair to her biographers, we legitimately didn’t have any documented evidence of her participation until it was declassified in 2014 by the French government. being a Nazi sympathizer is already pretty bad, and I don’t agree with her biographers’ decisions to defend her in that way. But now that we have documented proof, there’s really no disputing it anymore 🤷
Chosen a different path how? Who knows what people knew or thought back then. Anyhow, I dont think any current day Democrat should talk much about that seeing how antisemitic the DFL is currently.
GRAVE WALES BONNER: SHE is why we accept DEMNA. ANN LOWE: she pioneered African Americans in fashion breaking down barriers towards black people in luxury fashion DO NOT FORGET MARY QUANT!!! She revolutionized modern fashion with the mini-skirt and it’s importance shifted us towards a less conservative form of dress
You missed Claude Montana who single handed ushered in the padded shoulders. Montana owned the nineties straight out. So many designers that you listed were and still are influenced by Montana. His A line whimsical cuts, color palette, use of metal, voluminous collars, stunning silhouettes and the Montana Woman.
100% Missed *THE Jil Sander* I like to think of the zeitgeist as a series constants that manifest differently. Jil Sander somehow managed to penetrate through the manifestations and design straight from the source. That is to say, her designs are truly timeless. They don’t feel dated and they never presumed to visually identify the “future of fashion.” They exist in a weird moving present that never falls behind or speeds ahead.
Not necessarily in this order: 1. Thomas Burberry! He invented gabardine he changed the game for outerwear in the rain! Burberry trench coats! Do I need to say more? 2. Gaby Aghion (who created Chloe) changes fashion by making 'luxury pret-a-porter', which before fashion houses made Haute Couture. 3. Salvatore Ferragamo for creating the steel arch which lead to the stiletto heel! 4. Thierry Hermès I’m pretty sure is one of the oldest fashion houses, if not the oldest! I’m not sure if Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas, who created the Hermès Birkin bag, are too new to be on this list. But everyone wants one of these bags and there are so many bags that take inspiration from it. 5. Achille Maramotti! Max Mara coats are classics! He created coats that last for years, don’t go out of style, and any generation could wear! He saw how mass production of designer clothes was the way to go. 6. Rene Lacoste who invented the polo shirt, made tennis wear more comfortable and is still a popular top for pretty and old money aesthetic. 7. Ralph Lauren made clastic pieces stylish and encompass the “old money” classic / British aristocracy aesthetic. Some say he “wrote the rules of menswear” and “changed the way we think about style whether you’re uptown, downtown, or anything in-between”. 8. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are iconic with their loud prints! They made the pantsuit feminine! 9. Louis Vuitton with his iconic monogram leather goods, and makes some of the most famous bags in the world! 10. Stella McCartney, I’m pretty sure she’s “too new”, but I think her faux fur coats and sustainability should land her on the list. Today a lot of people have an issue with animal products and she is one of the designers who focused on making designer pieces that work with todays modern concerns. And so many more designers… I might add to this list later but this was just off the top of my head…. 🤔
Bliss we had a small tiff a whole ago about you gulping water. I want to I say I am sorry. I do value your opinion and coverage. I am an emerging designer and take fashion too serious at times. I think you are amazing and I am learning a lot from this video. Please accept my sincere apology and I will be subscribing to the top tear of your channel. We must I love supporting people in fashion Especially when they are teaching me. Keep going.
MOSCHINO ! He brought the campy and humorous approach to fashion a good 15 years before Marc Jacobs came on the scene. He also is becoming more prominent on internet culture because of the ressurgence of the Nanny and her fashion sense (almost always Cheap and Chic).
Jeanne Lanvin should be on this list. Beautiful, touching and inspiring story of how fashion was born out of mother’s love. She would wrap her daughter Marguerite in dresses and gowns made of finest and most luxurious fabrics with silhouettes so beautiful and exquisite that society women started requesting “adult versions” of the garments.
Norma Kamali, who is now all but forgotten, had a significant impact on American ready-to-wear. She is most recognized for her swimwear and parachute coat. Farrah Fawcett's red one-piece bathing suit from the classic 1976 poster and Whitney Houston's swimming suit from the back cover of her 1985 debut album were both created by Kamali.
I think Gres, Gaultier and Westwood are broadly influential designers that deserve to be on the list. Two personal favorites of mine that I'd love to have seen are Geoffrey Beene and Bill Blass. Both of these designers had an interest in Old Hollywood glamour, menswear influences, geometric and mix matched patterns, and a uniquely unaffected American chic. Beene's clothes were lushly embellished, but nevertheless remained examplars of minimalism due to the purity of the cut and elimination of inner construction and seams. Either of these designers would be a great replacement for Oscar de la Renta, who to me did not innovate either in style or construction. Here are two obscure names to consider: Romeo Gigli and Zoran. And Patrick Kelly--yes, yes yes!
Well... there is a list here about miss. I will definitely say Valentino Garavani, and Gianni Versace (The og I mean ). Iris Van Herpen, JW Anderson...
The one I never hear about is Patrick Kelly. African American designer from the south. The first American designer ever to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter. Using his craft to open dialogs about race, his upbringing, and inclusiveness, but keeping it fun and lighthearted. Though I guess I understand to a degree why he isn't talked about all too much since his career was cut short due his death.
Rick owens : one of the most influencial figure of making clothes look as crazy as their price Jacquemus : the best user of social media and authenticity Iris van herpen : the most futuristic and artistic modern couturier Casablanca : Personal taste but i feel like they are one of the only new brand that sells style, a lifestyle rather than just clothes, you could dress casabanca like without owning any of their clothes Versace : icon fashion designer that popularised the luscious baroque aesthetic
Geoffrey Beene. - Originally studied to become a doctor. Learned muscular systems and how humans move, and at the very end of his studies, changed his career because he couldn't stand the blood. - Most famous design was the fully sequined sports jersey GOWN made from silk and sequins. The MET has one - Created simple dresses that were intellectually sexy in that they looked under the skin for inspiration, rather than taking the human body at face value - Used materials considered unconventional at the time - Instead of using a runway, had dancers perform in his clothing to show how well anyone could move in them - Simplistic maximalism through twee-like print creation - Died and left behind a foundation that continues to fund and support small designers to this day - He isn't talked about in online fashion spaced so hi. Please talk about him :) He's sick and his deep cuts are so clever.
PHOEBE PHILO, GIANNI VERSACE, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, RAF SIMONS, HELMUT LANG, DONNA KARAN, IRIS VAN HERPEN, VIVIANNE WESTWOOD, ANN DEULEMEESTER, NICHOLAS GHESQUIERE & JUN TAKAHASHI.
Heidi Slimane and Thom Browne. I think I know you don’t care for Slimane, and I wouldn’t defend his current work. But his influence on menswear in the YSL and Dior Homme period is undeniable. Thom Browne similarly literally changed the men’s suit silhouette for at least a generation- no mean feat. And his work is nearly couture level, which is something an American designer hadn’t done in decades, at least not at that level. Plus his designs endlessly question the status quo, especially in terms of what gendered clothing is and/or means.
Emilio Pucci, Glenn Martens, WILLI SMITH, DAPPER DAN, anddddd i want to add Shayne Oliver into the mix for his huge contribution to bringing streetwear to the luxury fashion world and placing it on the map (i know he's still young). Oh also how can we all forget the fashion girlies' lord and saviour, Phoebe Philo
I would have loved to see Christian Lacroix, and Roberto Capucci, an honorable mention of Giles Deacon & Andre Walker. Also, I would love to hear your take on Costume Designers (Edith Head, Adrian, Eiko Ishioka, Bob Mackie)
13:08 The correct definition of a « bias cut » is pattern pieces that are placed on a 45 degree angle from the straight vertical grain line of a fabric, which are then cut and sewn. (So it is not the fabric that’s woven diagonally) In general, garments are usually cut on straight grain line to allow stability and ease during assembly. But bias cut pieces allow garments to achieve elasticity and suppleness to their volume, but they are difficult to work with (thus it requires skill, technique and experience). I hope this helps.
Madame Gres- PLEATS, the high lady of pleats, made gowns that flowed like no other. Big influence when designing the new star wars costumes. Every couturier alive would love to have any former craftsperson that worked under her. Like Jean Paul Gaultier. Jean Paul Gaultier- The rebel, able to make any concept and stretch it and explore it to its full potential. Skirts on men on the runway, non-binaey fashion pioneer Claude Montana- retrofuturism, the largest shoulder pads of the 80s. Influenced Alexander McQueen. Bold colour. Claire Mccardell- The American goddess of modern womenswear. When ww2 hit. All the designers saw we're scarcity. She saw opportunity to create beautiful functional clothing for the modern woman. Zippers, hooks and military fabrics. iris van herpen-YOU KNOW WHY Jaques Fath- one of the first couturiers to court celebrities and an incredible contemporary of Christian and Channel Jeanne Lanvin- YES Anne Klein-Icon of modern womenswear Jeremy Scott: Camp and couture artist
Mainbocher- Couturier known for his beautiful designs for royalty Janae Mori-First Asian couturier and incredible designer Charles Frederick Worth- The father of Haute couture
Guo Pei-One of fashion's most interesting voices in couture. Jun Takahashi- One of the pillars of Japanese streetwear Dapper Dan-Father of modern streetwear
André Courrèges should have been on this list. Streamlined, futuristic clothing - colourful vinyl jackets - the mini skirt (along with Mary Quant) - A-line 60s dresses - moon boots Ha was an architect that worked at Balenciaga where he learned his cut for clothes.
Poiret yes, but no Frederick Worth who practically invented haute couture as a special way to produce and market clothes? Jersey cannot be bias cut, because it is not woven. Bias cut has nothing to do with weaving. You can cut every woven fabric on the bias to make it more stretchy, but it is usually done with light fabrics like silk satin which makes it even more slithery to sew. I wish fashion experts had more practical knowledge of actual garment production. And who is that no-name Fendi bag maker? I agree with everyone who thinks the omission of Westwood is a grave oversight, because she gave fashion such a new direction. All in all your list was very confusing, because there was no rhyme nor reason to it. Sometimes it was influence, sometimes financial success. Jumping back and forth through de decades did not really help either. Leaving out the king and queen of 1990s minimalism, Lang and Sander was surprising, but not as shocking as leaving Dries van Noten and Anne Demeulemeester. At one point you said Lagerfeld, was a little young to be on the list, but later you added Mark Jacobs (I personally cannot see a point of his creations and find them sadly boring, probably better at marketing than design.
Gianni Versace was monumental in making the supermodel happen. He was was commercial but still sexy! very much so putting out on the runway what was happening in real life at the time. Family label (at first i believe) and the brand is run by his sister and still very much so relevant today.
Jil Sander and Vivienne Westwood... Surely I don't need to explain why? But both had huge impacts in very different ways. Sander with beautiful minimal future looking cuts and Westwood's mix of heritage plundering and shock.
DAME VIVIENNE WEDTWOOD👏👏👏👏a true pioneer in fashion history, her work was truly one of a kind and changed how people dressed in the uk (especially London) she was a leader of the 70s punk movement in London, an activist and a genius and she is still relevant today‼️‼️ Loved the vid btw🙃🙃
You should make a part 2 with the 25 most repeated names on the comment section, that would close the loop nicely in the question you put forward on canon.
Galliano is the greatest of all time to me, simply for the sheer range of his vision. Whether it’s the rebellious designs of his own brand, the romantic haute couture that he designed for the house of Dior, or his extremely forward interpretation of the anti-fashion of Margiela, he hardly ever misses. He has such an understanding of silhouette, structure, the bias cut, romance and femininity. He’s a true chameleon who can extract glamour from the most mundane things, he’s the story-teller.
I don’t know if I would say he is the greatest of all time but he is in the running, and imo is most definitely the best out there now. He has an incredible talent and his curiosity and passion for his profession is contagious. I wish McQueen was still with us. It was hard to top him or Galliano in the 90s. I think he would be doing amazing things today, too.
Patrick Kelly ["he was the FIRST American to be admitted to the Chambre syndicale du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode, the prestigious governing body of the French ready-to-wear industry. His young label thus became an official colleague of brands such as Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel and Christian Dior. He was the first American to join the organization, which is the trade association for the French ready-to-wear industry. Through this affiliation, Kelly was able to present runway shows at The Louvre."]
Also one of the first designers to actually answer the question “what do people *actually* want?” ➖ I’ve been waiting for someone to say Dan the Fucking Man™️
Christian Lacroix was me mentioned by others, but they didn't explain that he made haute couture inspired by the aesthetic of the Provence, where he comes from, a culture that Jacquemus is currently promoting in his design. LACROIX is probably one of the more courageous users of colour in couture, where fashion designers are often less exhuberant.
Thanks for this fantastic video ! I would personnally consider also as Old Masters : Courrèges, Hanae Mori (paved the way in Europe for Kenzo, Miyake and Kansai Yamamoto, and definitely had a huge influence over a more conservative vision of japanese fashion for decades), Madame Grès, Jeanne Lanvin, and maybe Sonia Rykiel for knitwear. And Vivienne Westwood, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Kosuke Tsumura and Gianni Versace.
Viv Westwood, added punk, post-punk and a sort of total rebellion to fashion. Rick Owens, also a rebel. Darklord of Fashion, made it super Scorpio. These, if you're a serious journalist, were left out on purpose. And maybe the designer behind A-Cold-Wall. Simmons, or something.
Hi Bliss! A few comments: 1. Cardin: "practitioner of the trend retrofuturistic" - well, given that he created mostly in the Space Age, Cold War and Space Raceof the 1960s, i wouldn't call it "retro". Futuristic visions were a quite contemporary issue 2. Roseberry: "one of the most interesting voices" - preach! periodt! 3. I'd replace Vionnet with Jeanne Lanvin and her most famous successors (i.e. Claude Montana, Alber Elbaz) 4. Maria Grazia Chiuri - most tedious, bland, uninspiring, and meh 5. Honarble & collective mention: the "Anwerp Six" - a crucial chapter in fashion history 6. Where are mommy and daddy of asceticism: Jil Sander and Helmut Lang? 7. For the love of goth! What about JP Gaultier? 8. *Bliss* do you read DMs on Insta? 📬
@@BlissFoster Well, his precision in cutting and working with diverse fabrics makes his clothes very couture-like and actually more accommodating to different body shapes. I would cross reference the fall 2007 collection where he pinched the sleeves to create a wide shoulder look but not as "hard" looking, the spring 2008 where he had very voluminous gowns billowing like jellyfishes and the fall 2011where he used gazar to the fabric's advantage. A lot of it is really he is just the Marge potato meme for me - I do just think it's neat. 😁
Raf simons I think raf has created that punk aesthetic with riot riot riot and that show with the long ass name I mean those 2 collections, you don't even need to say their names to know they're Raf's best works. Or to word it differently, when you think of Raf, you think those 2 collections. And i don't just think the street/punk aesthetic that he created is influential His work in the more sort of business casual type fashion with the shirts and knits is simply the best. Especially knits, raf simons sweaters are the sweaters to get if you want designer sweaters. And i think it's also the fact that he designs through sampling. Like looking at his clothes is like listening to kanye or daft punk or 90s hip hop. It's a collage of different things and mediums to form this one narrative. Which is incredibly influential to say the least.
I'm 100% sure you excluded Rick Owens on purpouse. His name is practically synonymous with avant-garde fashion and his clothes just have such a unique and raw energy, that he's a standout in the fashion world and definitely deserves a well-held spot on this list. I'm sure that a thought of him definitely passed through your head while making this video and he's on the list spiritually, he's just not in the video just not in the video lmao.
BERNHARD WILLHELM - the whiz kid of combining Basquiat-esque tribal prints and unapologetic gender-bending silhouettes with surprising mix of textiles.
IRIS VAN HERPEN must have already been mentioned by someone. Innovation in technique, vision execution, inspiration and impact. Creating beauty is not easy, and she shows how complex it can be.
Jacques Heim, classical legend from 1930s who invented the first bathing suit bikini. Called it the Atome as the world’s smallest bathing suit. It was during the time the atomic bomb was being made and referred it as giving the same reaction to people as the atomic bomb in Japan does. Icon ig ✋
New masters: Jean Paul Gaultier and Gianni Versace. New new masters (?) Jil Sander, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Riccardo Tisci (esp Givenchy Couture), Nicholas Ghesquiere (Balenciaga era) PPP, Rick Owens
The Virgil Ablouh I think virgil was definitely one of the best fashion designers to ever exist imo, he popularized the concept of luxury fashion and streetwear fashion in a very unique fusion and his work at louis vuitton was definitely my favorite era of LVm
Vivienne Westwood, Madame Grès, Isabel Toledo, Franco Moschino, Valentino Garavani, Calvin Klein, Iris van Herpen, Gianfranco Ferre. People still carry a torch for Romeo Gigli.
Depending on where you draw the line of fashion designer- Kensuke Ishizu the shepherd of what began as american ivy transformed into preppy & in recent years became basics the bedrock of modern ready-to-wear. As well as huge swaths of the Japanese Clothing Industry The brooks brothers the creators of mass produced ready-to-wear [menswear] after the war of 1812 when the brits flooded nyc with fabric (possibly to try to collapse the nascent clothing industry). Lacoste the creator of the polo shirt which was created for tennis (shirts for polo technically button-down shirts) or Ralph Lauren who blended cinema & the namesake of 'polo' shirts named after his brand that he named after a sport he'd never played etc. Dapper Dan the creator of logomania. Westwood the creator of punk. I do wonder where the line is between say a fashion designer with a few design changes, versus cutters like the brilliant Davide Taub & his long list of innovations such as the curved seams in suiting (see his old eponymous blog) to more recent things like bringing back a version of detachable pockets, is it simply the moving beyond one off pieces that aren't practical into mass produced ones that are versus bespoke designs.
Geoffrey Beene Claude Montana not sure if you mentioned Valentino Gianfranco ferré Emanuel Ungaro Lanvin Vivianne Westwood Bob McKee Jean Paul gaultier
Well he just started in 2009 but Julien Founie’ think autocorrect spelled him wrong nothing about Julien is wrong he’s just all RIGHT he gets women and what we like 👍
Rick Owens I worked in Paris boutiques in the 80's and I know about fashion. Rick Owens is the only designer really missing in this list. The longevity, the attitude, the immediately recognizable look, the stardom, the muses, he has it all. Of course Jean-Paul, Vivienne and Gianni could have also but not automatically should have...
Welcome to the channel, Dr. Pit! Thanks for sharing your thoughts as you work through the videos 💫💫 And yea, Worth was one of the ones we left out on purpose 👀
He's said before he doesn't really care about trends and he doesn't think others should either if they want to develop a sense of style. Not saying it's a bad video idea , just that Bliss probably isn't the one to do it
@@jenniewalker6651 I feel that. I feel like it would work better than he thinks though… like product expansions for brands he likes or the success of certain upcoming designers
@@jamesscalise4990 ahh , less of trends in the general sense and more of a prediction of a brand's vision / designs coming up? I do like that. It could be fun to see him say "I like this brand / designer and what the brand / designer represents, let's see if I can guess where they might pull inspiration from" As a separate comment on it , I do wonder how hard it might be to be able to guess thematic / inspiration choices for a runway show ahead of time , especially if those choices can sometimes be based around media references that don't tie specifically to this point in time , if that makes sense as a complexity
Walter Van Beirendonck He is so playful and expressive with his designs. He has been important in merging streetwear with luxury fashion. He was also very influencial on designers like Craig Green. I like his stuff. Hes the best antwerp six person. bye bye.
Designers to consider adding to the list: Madame Gres < Fluting and Grecian Goddess dresses Mariano Fortuny > Pleating Mary McFadden > Pleating and unique patterns Valentino > Red
i think betsey johnson added a fun level of kitsch that didn't take itself to seriously and became very accessible for many over time without compromising her unique style, her designs stick out to me like a sore thumb in the brightest boldest, most playful way
I’m going to go out on a limb, and add Ralph Lauren into the mix. In terms of really honing in on his genre, Ralph Lauren is one of the pioneers of Americana. His catalog speaks for itself in that respect, and (this is my loose, personal opinion) RAF Simons’ Calvin Klein appointment wouldn’t have been so good without someone like Ralph Lauren already having so much definition to that genre already in place.
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VIVIENNE WESTWOOD!!! Queen of deconstruction that we now see EVERYWHERE and brought grunge and punk into high fashion!
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yes!!
*Vivienne Westwood*
-I'm absolutely fascinated by the way she uses some fabrics back in her old 90s show (Not saying that her designs nowadays are bad but it's just that the 90s were way more superior and beautiful when it came to designing clothes. She literally broke barriers and rules and did whatever the hell she wanted too! :D
*Guo Pei*
-In my opinion she is really underrated, by really, I mean REALLY underrated, her works are the definition of a masterpiece and every single time I see a piece of her artwork I literally get speechless, I would love if would make a video on her!!!!
*Gianni Versace*
-The legend himself, He knows how to turn a simple dress into an Artwork, I mean look at his collection! The dresses might be made out of simple looking fabric (ik they aren't simple or low quality, but yk what I mean) into a Elegant, chic and Full of colorful touch in it, Its Gianni's secret magic, I believe that makes his dress sexy but at the same time modest and elegant.
*Zuhair Murad*
-He is also another underrated designer; His works are really feminine, and his works are mostly done in an elegant, beautiful way, The feminines in his work just feels really unique.
*Blumarine*
-Don't know much about the brand or old other works, But their collection is really playful, pop and the recent collections give me huge y2k vibe!!
*Iris Van Herpen*
-Do I have to tell?????
EDIT 1: I forgot to add *William Travilla* He Designed Marlyin Monroe's most iconic outfit's and truly understood her!
EDIT 2: *Park sohee* Aka Miss Sohee is a young couturier how I feel like knows how to play with fabric and shapes of the beautiful, splendid clothes she makes
GUO PEI is soo underrated her work is amazing. And without Vivienne is there Undercover ? N(N) ? Many more brands and styles she brought to the table ?
ALL THESE DESIGNERS ARE SO GOOD. The fact I didn’t even think of some is shameful 😩, Versace, Guo Pei, IRIS VAN HERPEN??? AHHHH, tho I think he might not have put iris in cause they’ve only been around for a short amount of time? Correct me if I’m wrong lol
@@cherhorowitz6070 I do agree, Bliss Covered only the old master's and left the rest to us :)
Yes omg totally the comment inwas looking for
idk if you could call malcolm mclaren a great designer but he and vivienne bounced a lot of ideas off each other in the early days from what I read
Helmut Lang should be on this list. Not only for the minimalism and all the sick designs but he was the first to stream a collection on the internet and one of the first to do co-ed shows.
Definitely! a legend that gave it his all and walked away from it all…but I thought Walter V was the first to show his collection online
@@qhoffa9568 Helmut was the first to do an internet-based fashion show. that was in 1998 but he's a great for so many other reasons
@@mortuumamori5279 beksinski art pfp!
Strongly agree. And don't forget his photography. I was lucky enough to see a version of his table book when it first came out. Utterly stunning.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
100% agree. A lot of his designs from the 90s are still very relevant and chic today.
Jean Paul Gaultier, the OG enfant terrible.
One of my favourite fashion designers.
He got me hooked and to study fashion designing.
Please do an in depth analysis /review on Gaultier.
He is spectacular, no one like him
Agree!!! Please more jean Paul Gaultier on RUclips not enough!!
- Jun Takahashi/Raf Simons/Vivienne Westwood should be on this list as masters of the crossover between fashion and youth culture
- Helmut Lang should be on this list as the most prominent proponent of minimalism in designer fashion
- Rick Owens should be on this list BECAUSE
- Nigo should be on this list as the arguable creator of the streetwear business model
- Hedi Slimane should be on this list because he imposed a very influential vision onto menswear in the early aughts (as much as I dislike anything he did past his tenure at Dior Homme)
- Gianni Versace and Valentino Garavani should be on this list as proponents of an exquisitely Italian and Mediterranean vision of chic
- Also, really no one from the Antwerp Six?
this! he needs to do a round two for sure, these you listed as a kid growing up in the 90s and got into mens fashion as I grew up, these are the staples of that.
Nigo is so underrated, he influenced streetwear and youth culture like no other
Absolutely!!! Big thumbs up for all these.
*Iris Van Herpen*
She's a current designer that I'd point to if I needed to demonstrate the use of nature to inspire design, from creating eco-friendly materials (including stuff like steel), to engineering moving (and wearable) garments and 3-D printing, and creating beautiful silhouettes.
It's like nature meets technology and design.
Absolutely, I would have included Iris, but she’s a little young for this list. She’s for sure making the history books tho 💫💫
@@BlissFoster so because the ink isn’t dry in her case
lol iris has been doing the same shit for the last decade, she doesn't deserve to be anywhere near this list.
I was going to mention her too!
I was about to mention her until I saw ur comment
(Intentional) omissions I noticed are Gaultier, Valentino, Westwood, Versace, Raf, Ann Demeulemeester, Philo, and Dries. I guess big commercial American designers like Calvin Klein, DVF, Kors, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger too, but they're a bit different lol.
I would definitely love a dive into Maria and her success with sales in contrast to her critical popularity as well as talking about other brands and their relationship to profitability/business relative to quality creative output. I remember a fashion person saying that Akris makes TONS of money, which seemed so random but I guess they corner the rich lady market. Would love to learn more about that.
Gaultier and Valentino especially
Me too!
I think he didn’t mention some because he was more pointing out they took out the high end out of fashion the more low maintenance fashion
Westwood, Gaultier & Versace (both Gianni & Donatella) felt like the most obvious omissions from their cultural significance that extends beyond the clothes. You left out quite a few significant Americans: Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein & Donna Karan to name a few. Some less obvious choices but worth noting are Viktor & Rolf, RAF(!)…also the work of Miguel Adrover is often overlooked/under recognized in my humble opinion.
yeah. Raf. obviously purposely left out. he was not the first but was the strongest cultivator of subculture culture. something abloh attempted but never intended to sustain because of his sweet tooth.bliss, can you sort of divide motivation to be either culture or form? maybe why I look more to kawakubo, margiela, Raf, Takahashi.
I cant believe that Vivienne Westwood was left of the list, her designs used Harris Tweed, from the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, this in turn helped boost sales for Harris Tweed fundamentally saving the local industry of the islands. Using this fabric was also a nod and a middle finger to aristocratic ways of the UK.. Plus the fact she is a kick ass climate activist (one that doesn’t destroy art to make a hedland) … Jean Paul Gautier cheeky, provocative, chic, theatrical, and queer, plus i served Gautier a couple of drinks at the Beauchamp Hotel on Oxford Street Sydney way way way back in Mardi Gras 1999… i was like “OMG you’re Jean Paul Gautier!” …. He was like “shhhhhh”… he tipped well. In my mind i was all like Madonna Madonna Madonna … music has been a major roll in my fashion awakening, appreciation and appetite (even though I’m still a jeans and tshirt kinda guy) i guess the two go together here is an extreme example Morris Dancers.
• Jacques Fath (because he was the playful side of french fashion that Dior and Balmain revamped)
• Charles Frederick Worth (the first to be considered a fashion designer)
• Jeanne Lanvin (needless to explain, and her original logo says it all)
• Edith Head (her influence is huge still today... ask Pixar)
• Mary Quant (c’mon...)
• Ossie Clark (the King)
• Sonia Rykiel (knitwear anyone?)
• Valentino (the one and only)
• Paco Rabanne
• André Courrèges (see Mary Quant)
• Helmut Lang
• Bill Blass
• Kansai Yamamoto
• Stephen Sprouse
• Rudi Gernreich
Edith head though didn't have a house. Her influence is based upon the Hollywood glamour. On a bigger picture she didn't really have much influence. Bob macky i think is more influential.
@@reymondlongtable3030 Well, the focus is on designers, not “houses”. Anyway, what Head did for Joan Crawford is still iconic 😉
@@reymondlongtable3030 But for audience reach, it's hard to beat the Old Hollywood Glamour Machine? I've always thought of Bob Macky as the kid Edith never had...
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Some other fashion titans - Sonia Rykiel, Pierre Balmain, Jeanne Lanvin, Charles Worth, Mariano Fortuny a.k.a OG pleats god, Mary Quant a.k.a give me everything mini, Diane Von Furstenburg, Gianni Versace, Thierry Mugler, Ann Lowe, Edith Head a.k.a the queen of Hollywood. Could go on but that’s what I love about fashion - so many great designers and different eras.
So I'm going to be a total nerd and suggest a couple of lesser known designers, Madame Gres and Emilie Flöge. Madame Gres specialised in pleating and was inspired by Grecian sculpture (I studied ancient history at uni so that really resonates). She peaked in the 1930s but when you look at some of her dresses they appear shockingly modern. Emilie Flöge is a bit of strange one (who I heard about in a Karolina Żebrowska video); it's hard to explain but if you Google her you'll see why she deserves attention. She was a fashion designer (based in Vienna rather than Paris) but I don't think her really unique pieces caught on (it's not even clear that she tried to promote or sell them). I accept that neither of these two are GOATs but I wanted to share with the group as they're both worth a look.
Madame Grès, for sure! Good call.
YASS! I was thinking her too ❤❤
Walter Van Beirendonck. Pioneer in electronica (first one to put their shows on CD or make video games related to his work), casted plus size models and used his art to voice his opinions on NSFW stuff, all while creating some of the most insane shows and garments!
Love walter greetings from antwerp
KENZO
The only designer who credibly included nature and nature-inspired prints, as well Japanese flair for colour into modern fashion. Also Hanae Mori who became the first Japanese person to do couture in Paris.
Doesn't really make sense not to include Charles Frederick Worth. You even mentioned his house!
The guy literally invented haute couture....
Also, Michael Kors. Wearable, somewhat affordable garments that, at least in my opinion, have changed American fashion to being very, very elegant
Good on you for just flat out saying Chanel was a Nazi. Not a sympathizer, not swept up in the hype, but someone who made decisions when she could have chosen a different path.
To be fair to her biographers, we legitimately didn’t have any documented evidence of her participation until it was declassified in 2014 by the French government. being a Nazi sympathizer is already pretty bad, and I don’t agree with her biographers’ decisions to defend her in that way. But now that we have documented proof, there’s really no disputing it anymore 🤷
Chosen a different path how? Who knows what people knew or thought back then. Anyhow, I dont think any current day Democrat should talk much about that seeing how antisemitic the DFL is currently.
GRAVE WALES BONNER: SHE is why we accept DEMNA.
ANN LOWE: she pioneered African Americans in fashion breaking down barriers towards black people in luxury fashion
DO NOT FORGET MARY QUANT!!! She revolutionized modern fashion with the mini-skirt and it’s importance shifted us towards a less conservative form of dress
You missed Claude Montana who single handed ushered in the padded shoulders. Montana owned the nineties straight out. So many designers that you listed were and still are influenced by Montana. His A line whimsical cuts, color palette, use of metal, voluminous collars, stunning silhouettes and the Montana Woman.
love everything ive seen by Montana
100% Missed *THE Jil Sander*
I like to think of the zeitgeist as a series constants that manifest differently. Jil Sander somehow managed to penetrate through the manifestations and design straight from the source. That is to say, her designs are truly timeless. They don’t feel dated and they never presumed to visually identify the “future of fashion.” They exist in a weird moving present that never falls behind or speeds ahead.
Christian Lacroix, JP Gaultier and Madame Gres. Can’t do the Greats without them. 🙏❤
Not necessarily in this order:
1. Thomas Burberry! He invented gabardine he changed the game for outerwear in the rain! Burberry trench coats! Do I need to say more?
2. Gaby Aghion (who created Chloe) changes fashion by making 'luxury pret-a-porter', which before fashion houses made Haute Couture.
3. Salvatore Ferragamo for creating the steel arch which lead to the stiletto heel!
4. Thierry Hermès I’m pretty sure is one of the oldest fashion houses, if not the oldest! I’m not sure if Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas, who created the Hermès Birkin bag, are too new to be on this list. But everyone wants one of these bags and there are so many bags that take inspiration from it.
5. Achille Maramotti! Max Mara coats are classics! He created coats that last for years, don’t go out of style, and any generation could wear! He saw how mass production of designer clothes was the way to go.
6. Rene Lacoste who invented the polo shirt, made tennis wear more comfortable and is still a popular top for pretty and old money aesthetic.
7. Ralph Lauren made clastic pieces stylish and encompass the “old money” classic / British aristocracy aesthetic. Some say he “wrote the rules of menswear” and “changed the way we think about style whether you’re uptown, downtown, or anything in-between”.
8. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are iconic with their loud prints! They made the pantsuit feminine!
9. Louis Vuitton with his iconic monogram leather goods, and makes some of the most famous bags in the world!
10. Stella McCartney, I’m pretty sure she’s “too new”, but I think her faux fur coats and sustainability should land her on the list. Today a lot of people have an issue with animal products and she is one of the designers who focused on making designer pieces that work with todays modern concerns.
And so many more designers… I might add to this list later but this was just off the top of my head…. 🤔
Chanel the Nazi...best revenge.....now owned by the Jewish Wertheimer brothers.End scene
Bliss we had a small tiff a whole ago about you gulping water. I want to I say I am sorry. I do value your opinion and coverage. I am an emerging designer and take fashion too serious at times. I think you are amazing and I am learning a lot from this video. Please accept my sincere apology and I will be subscribing to the top tear of your channel. We must I love supporting people in fashion Especially when they are teaching me. Keep going.
MOSCHINO !
He brought the campy and humorous approach to fashion a good 15 years before Marc Jacobs came on the scene. He also is becoming more prominent on internet culture because of the ressurgence of the Nanny and her fashion sense (almost always Cheap and Chic).
Jeanne Lanvin should be on this list. Beautiful, touching and inspiring story of how fashion was born out of mother’s love. She would wrap her daughter Marguerite in dresses and gowns made of finest and most luxurious fabrics with silhouettes so beautiful and exquisite that society women started requesting “adult versions” of the garments.
Norma Kamali, who is now all but forgotten, had a significant impact on American ready-to-wear. She is most recognized for her swimwear and parachute coat. Farrah Fawcett's red one-piece bathing suit from the classic 1976 poster and Whitney Houston's swimming suit from the back cover of her 1985 debut album were both created by Kamali.
I think Gres, Gaultier and Westwood are broadly influential designers that deserve to be on the list. Two personal favorites of mine that I'd love to have seen are Geoffrey Beene and Bill Blass. Both of these designers had an interest in Old Hollywood glamour, menswear influences, geometric and mix matched patterns, and a uniquely unaffected American chic. Beene's clothes were lushly embellished, but nevertheless remained examplars of minimalism due to the purity of the cut and elimination of inner construction and seams. Either of these designers would be a great replacement for Oscar de la Renta, who to me did not innovate either in style or construction. Here are two obscure names to consider: Romeo Gigli and Zoran. And Patrick Kelly--yes, yes yes!
beene, definitely! who trained alber
Well... there is a list here about miss. I will definitely say Valentino Garavani, and Gianni Versace (The og I mean ). Iris Van Herpen, JW Anderson...
U forgot Helmut Lang, RAF Simmons, Rick Owens for the new wave of designers. Definitely the foundation for fashion in the 00’s & ‘10s!
The one I never hear about is Patrick Kelly. African American designer from the south. The first American designer ever to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter. Using his craft to open dialogs about race, his upbringing, and inclusiveness, but keeping it fun and lighthearted. Though I guess I understand to a degree why he isn't talked about all too much since his career was cut short due his death.
I was waiting for someone to bring in Kelly 💫💫
Rick owens : one of the most influencial figure of making clothes look as crazy as their price
Jacquemus : the best user of social media and authenticity
Iris van herpen : the most futuristic and artistic modern couturier
Casablanca : Personal taste but i feel like they are one of the only new brand that sells style, a lifestyle rather than just clothes, you could dress casabanca like without owning any of their clothes
Versace : icon fashion designer that popularised the luscious baroque aesthetic
curious that i disagree with everything xD
Jacquemus too young. Maybe Rick Owens.
Rick is interesting because I think of him for a revolutionary form of menswear which is pretty much gone from bliss's list
Casablanca? Are you for real? 😝 poel and Casablanca in the same list 😂
Hedi Slimane clears them all
Geoffrey Beene.
- Originally studied to become a doctor. Learned muscular systems and how humans move, and at the very end of his studies, changed his career because he couldn't stand the blood.
- Most famous design was the fully sequined sports jersey GOWN made from silk and sequins. The MET has one
- Created simple dresses that were intellectually sexy in that they looked under the skin for inspiration, rather than taking the human body at face value
- Used materials considered unconventional at the time
- Instead of using a runway, had dancers perform in his clothing to show how well anyone could move in them
- Simplistic maximalism through twee-like print creation
- Died and left behind a foundation that continues to fund and support small designers to this day
- He isn't talked about in online fashion spaced so hi. Please talk about him :) He's sick and his deep cuts are so clever.
PHOEBE PHILO, GIANNI VERSACE, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, RAF SIMONS, HELMUT LANG, DONNA KARAN, IRIS VAN HERPEN, VIVIANNE WESTWOOD, ANN DEULEMEESTER, NICHOLAS GHESQUIERE & JUN TAKAHASHI.
Nicolas Ghesquière! An absolute genius who shaped today’s fashion
Heidi Slimane and Thom Browne. I think I know you don’t care for Slimane, and I wouldn’t defend his current work. But his influence on menswear in the YSL and Dior Homme period is undeniable.
Thom Browne similarly literally changed the men’s suit silhouette for at least a generation- no mean feat. And his work is nearly couture level, which is something an American designer hadn’t done in decades, at least not at that level. Plus his designs endlessly question the status quo, especially in terms of what gendered clothing is and/or means.
Emilio Pucci, Glenn Martens, WILLI SMITH, DAPPER DAN, anddddd i want to add Shayne Oliver into the mix for his huge contribution to bringing streetwear to the luxury fashion world and placing it on the map (i know he's still young). Oh also how can we all forget the fashion girlies' lord and saviour, Phoebe Philo
Tom Ford didnt bring the bamboo handle to Gucci, it was already there after 2nd world war bc leather was too expensive ... but love you ❤❤
Love corrections. Thank you 💫💫
I would have loved to see Christian Lacroix, and Roberto Capucci, an honorable mention of Giles Deacon & Andre Walker. Also, I would love to hear your take on Costume Designers (Edith Head, Adrian, Eiko Ishioka, Bob Mackie)
I think Raf Simons, Helmut Lang and Jean Paul Gaultier should definitely be on that list
13:08 The correct definition of a « bias cut » is pattern pieces that are placed on a 45 degree angle from the straight vertical grain line of a fabric, which are then cut and sewn. (So it is not the fabric that’s woven diagonally)
In general, garments are usually cut on straight grain line to allow stability and ease during assembly. But bias cut pieces allow garments to achieve elasticity and suppleness to their volume, but they are difficult to work with (thus it requires skill, technique and experience).
I hope this helps.
Thank you! Was very confused when he said 'particularly jersey' as well which is knit
Madame Gres- PLEATS, the high lady of pleats, made gowns that flowed like no other. Big influence when designing the new star wars costumes. Every couturier alive would love to have any former craftsperson that worked under her. Like Jean Paul Gaultier.
Jean Paul Gaultier- The rebel, able to make any concept and stretch it and explore it to its full potential. Skirts on men on the runway, non-binaey fashion pioneer
Claude Montana- retrofuturism, the largest shoulder pads of the 80s. Influenced Alexander McQueen. Bold colour.
Claire Mccardell- The American goddess of modern womenswear. When ww2 hit. All the designers saw we're scarcity. She saw opportunity to create beautiful functional clothing for the modern woman. Zippers, hooks and military fabrics.
iris van herpen-YOU KNOW WHY
Jaques Fath- one of the first couturiers to court celebrities and an incredible contemporary of Christian and Channel
Jeanne Lanvin- YES
Anne Klein-Icon of modern womenswear
Jeremy Scott: Camp and couture artist
Mainbocher- Couturier known for his beautiful designs for royalty
Janae Mori-First Asian couturier and incredible designer
Charles Frederick Worth- The father of Haute couture
Guo Pei-One of fashion's most interesting voices in couture.
Jun Takahashi- One of the pillars of Japanese streetwear
Dapper Dan-Father of modern streetwear
Mary Quant-you know why
Vivienne Westwood-powerhouse of British fashion and pink deity
André Courrèges should have been on this list.
Streamlined, futuristic clothing
- colourful vinyl jackets
- the mini skirt (along with Mary Quant)
- A-line 60s dresses
- moon boots
Ha was an architect that worked at Balenciaga where he learned his cut for clothes.
just realized you werent KIDDING, where is gaultier, versace, vivienne, ralph ??? MISTER BLISS ?
Poiret yes, but no Frederick Worth who practically invented haute couture as a special way to produce and market clothes? Jersey cannot be bias cut, because it is not woven. Bias cut has nothing to do with weaving. You can cut every woven fabric on the bias to make it more stretchy, but it is usually done with light fabrics like silk satin which makes it even more slithery to sew. I wish fashion experts had more practical knowledge of actual garment production. And who is that no-name Fendi bag maker? I agree with everyone who thinks the omission of Westwood is a grave oversight, because she gave fashion such a new direction. All in all your list was very confusing, because there was no rhyme nor reason to it. Sometimes it was influence, sometimes financial success. Jumping back and forth through de decades did not really help either. Leaving out the king and queen of 1990s minimalism, Lang and Sander was surprising, but not as shocking as leaving Dries van Noten and Anne Demeulemeester. At one point you said Lagerfeld, was a little young to be on the list, but later you added Mark Jacobs (I personally cannot see a point of his creations and find them sadly boring, probably better at marketing than design.
I’d say we missed Westwood and Gaultier
Gianni Versace was monumental in making the supermodel happen. He was was commercial but still sexy! very much so putting out on the runway what was happening in real life at the time. Family label (at first i believe) and the brand is run by his sister and still very much so relevant today.
Jil Sander and Vivienne Westwood... Surely I don't need to explain why? But both had huge impacts in very different ways. Sander with beautiful minimal future looking cuts and Westwood's mix of heritage plundering and shock.
Ozwald Boateng - Ghanaian British - First black tailor to be on Savile Row - First black designer to be creative director at Givenchy
DAME VIVIENNE WEDTWOOD👏👏👏👏a true pioneer in fashion history, her work was truly one of a kind and changed how people dressed in the uk (especially London) she was a leader of the 70s punk movement in London, an activist and a genius and she is still relevant today‼️‼️
Loved the vid btw🙃🙃
You should make a part 2 with the 25 most repeated names on the comment section, that would close the loop nicely in the question you put forward on canon.
Galliano is the greatest of all time to me, simply for the sheer range of his vision. Whether it’s the rebellious designs of his own brand, the romantic haute couture that he designed for the house of Dior, or his extremely forward interpretation of the anti-fashion of Margiela, he hardly ever misses. He has such an understanding of silhouette, structure, the bias cut, romance and femininity. He’s a true chameleon who can extract glamour from the most mundane things, he’s the story-teller.
I don’t know if I would say he is the greatest of all time but he is in the running, and imo is most definitely the best out there now.
He has an incredible talent and his curiosity and passion for his profession is contagious.
I wish McQueen was still with us.
It was hard to top him or Galliano in the 90s. I think he would be doing amazing things today, too.
Charles Frederick Worth. I mean, you’ve got to include the creator of the very first haute couture house. Imho
Patrick Kelly
["he was the FIRST American to be admitted to the Chambre syndicale du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode, the prestigious governing body of the French ready-to-wear industry. His young label thus became an official colleague of brands such as Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel and Christian Dior. He was the first American to join the organization, which is the trade association for the French ready-to-wear industry. Through this affiliation, Kelly was able to present runway shows at The Louvre."]
Many have been mentioned in the comments, but:
Franco Moschino
Dapper Dan
The legendary remix of luxury fashion catering for black culture
Also one of the first designers to actually answer the question “what do people *actually* want?”
➖
I’ve been waiting for someone to say Dan the Fucking Man™️
Was JUST about to comment him. Literally one of the ultimate Black icons🙌🏽 He also invented a new way to screenprint on leather!
Cristobal Balenciaga is turning in his grave seeing what is beling sold today under his name. La honte!
You didn’t talk about my grandmas scarfs
Alexandre Herchcovitch should definitely be on the list! One of the most legendary Brazilian designers! He is a legend
Vivienne Westwood, Gianni Versace, Raf Simons and Jean Paul Gaultier should be on that list!!
Imo the best modern desginer if u see fashion as art is Iris van Herpen.
Christian Lacroix was me mentioned by others, but they didn't explain that he made haute couture inspired by the aesthetic of the Provence, where he comes from, a culture that Jacquemus is currently promoting in his design. LACROIX is probably one of the more courageous users of colour in couture, where fashion designers are often less exhuberant.
Thanks for this fantastic video !
I would personnally consider also as Old Masters : Courrèges, Hanae Mori (paved the way in Europe for Kenzo, Miyake and Kansai Yamamoto, and definitely had a huge influence over a more conservative vision of japanese fashion for decades), Madame Grès, Jeanne Lanvin, and maybe Sonia Rykiel for knitwear.
And Vivienne Westwood, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Kosuke Tsumura and Gianni Versace.
Awesome, thank you! Could you elaborate on everyone else like you did for Mori? What makes them worthy of the list? Get specific 💫💫
Viv Westwood, added punk, post-punk and a sort of total rebellion to fashion. Rick Owens, also a rebel. Darklord of Fashion, made it super Scorpio. These, if you're a serious journalist, were left out on purpose. And maybe the designer behind A-Cold-Wall. Simmons, or something.
Hi Bliss! A few comments:
1. Cardin: "practitioner of the trend retrofuturistic" - well, given that he created mostly in the Space Age, Cold War and Space Raceof the 1960s, i wouldn't call it "retro". Futuristic visions were a quite contemporary issue
2. Roseberry: "one of the most interesting voices" - preach! periodt!
3. I'd replace Vionnet with Jeanne Lanvin and her most famous successors (i.e. Claude Montana, Alber Elbaz)
4. Maria Grazia Chiuri - most tedious, bland, uninspiring, and meh
5. Honarble & collective mention: the "Anwerp Six" - a crucial chapter in fashion history
6. Where are mommy and daddy of asceticism: Jil Sander and Helmut Lang?
7. For the love of goth! What about JP Gaultier?
8. *Bliss* do you read DMs on Insta? 📬
You definitely omitted Rick Owens on purpose 😏
Clair McCardell, MarianoFortuny, Adrian, The Fendi's
No Bob Mackie? Come on you have to have some glitz in the mix.
I personally love what Alber Elbaz did. He made technically brilliant clothes which are also so much fun.
Awesome! Thank you! Could you elaborate? What makes his designs technically brilliant? Be specific 🦾
@@BlissFoster Well, his precision in cutting and working with diverse fabrics makes his clothes very couture-like and actually more accommodating to different body shapes. I would cross reference the fall 2007 collection where he pinched the sleeves to create a wide shoulder look but not as "hard" looking, the spring 2008 where he had very voluminous gowns billowing like jellyfishes and the fall 2011where he used gazar to the fabric's advantage. A lot of it is really he is just the Marge potato meme for me - I do just think it's neat. 😁
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻anyway compliments for your huge understanding of fashion essence!
Raf simons
I think raf has created that punk aesthetic with riot riot riot and that show with the long ass name
I mean those 2 collections, you don't even need to say their names to know they're Raf's best works. Or to word it differently, when you think of Raf, you think those 2 collections. And i don't just think the street/punk aesthetic that he created is influential
His work in the more sort of business casual type fashion with the shirts and knits is simply the best. Especially knits, raf simons sweaters are the sweaters to get if you want designer sweaters.
And i think it's also the fact that he designs through sampling. Like looking at his clothes is like listening to kanye or daft punk or 90s hip hop. It's a collage of different things and mediums to form this one narrative. Which is incredibly influential to say the least.
I'm 100% sure you excluded Rick Owens on purpouse. His name is practically synonymous with avant-garde fashion and his clothes just have such a unique and raw energy, that he's a standout in the fashion world and definitely deserves a well-held spot on this list. I'm sure that a thought of him definitely passed through your head while making this video and he's on the list spiritually, he's just not in the video just not in the video lmao.
Dries Van Noten should be mentioned as an innovator.
Not only educational but just entertaining to watch ….thank you❤
BERNHARD WILLHELM - the whiz kid of combining Basquiat-esque tribal prints and unapologetic gender-bending silhouettes with surprising mix of textiles.
IRIS VAN HERPEN must have already been mentioned by someone.
Innovation in technique, vision execution, inspiration and impact.
Creating beauty is not easy, and she shows how complex it can be.
Jacques Heim, classical legend from 1930s who invented the first bathing suit bikini. Called it the Atome as the world’s smallest bathing suit. It was during the time the atomic bomb was being made and referred it as giving the same reaction to people as the atomic bomb in Japan does. Icon ig ✋
New masters: Jean Paul Gaultier and Gianni Versace. New new masters (?) Jil Sander, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Riccardo Tisci (esp Givenchy Couture), Nicholas Ghesquiere (Balenciaga era) PPP, Rick Owens
The Virgil Ablouh
I think virgil was definitely one of the best fashion designers to ever exist imo, he popularized the concept of luxury fashion and streetwear fashion in a very unique fusion and his work at louis vuitton was definitely my favorite era of LVm
like many have mentioned: Helmut Lang, Westwood, and JPG
and... Lacroix sweetie, Lacroix!!!
Vivienne Westwood. Icon, Legend, Trend setter. she paved the way
Vivienne Westwood, Madame Grès, Isabel Toledo, Franco Moschino, Valentino Garavani, Calvin Klein, Iris van Herpen, Gianfranco Ferre. People still carry a torch for Romeo Gigli.
Bliss Foster I’m curious if we’ll ever get a video on Kim Jones work at Fendi and Dior I’d love to hear your opinion and analysis of his designs.
Depending on where you draw the line of fashion designer-
Kensuke Ishizu the shepherd of what began as american ivy transformed into preppy & in recent years became basics the bedrock of modern ready-to-wear. As well as huge swaths of the Japanese Clothing Industry
The brooks brothers the creators of mass produced ready-to-wear [menswear] after the war of 1812 when the brits flooded nyc with fabric (possibly to try to collapse the nascent clothing industry).
Lacoste the creator of the polo shirt which was created for tennis (shirts for polo technically button-down shirts) or Ralph Lauren who blended cinema & the namesake of 'polo' shirts named after his brand that he named after a sport he'd never played etc.
Dapper Dan the creator of logomania.
Westwood the creator of punk.
I do wonder where the line is between say a fashion designer with a few design changes, versus cutters like the brilliant Davide Taub & his long list of innovations such as the curved seams in suiting (see his old eponymous blog) to more recent things like bringing back a version of detachable pockets, is it simply the moving beyond one off pieces that aren't practical into mass produced ones that are versus bespoke designs.
Madame Gres- Master draper of fabric on the female form divine.
Geoffrey Beene
Claude Montana not sure if you mentioned Valentino
Gianfranco ferré
Emanuel Ungaro
Lanvin
Vivianne Westwood
Bob McKee
Jean Paul gaultier
Well he just started in 2009 but Julien Founie’ think autocorrect spelled him wrong nothing about Julien is wrong he’s just all RIGHT he gets women and what we like 👍
i would have included Claude Montana but he is largely forgotten but he invented the 80's look power shoulder.
I was waiting for Jean-Paul Galutier and i think he deserves to be here. And Versace!!!
How could you miss out Mary Quant? Queen of the sixties and Carnaby Street fashion. She got a whole exhibition at the V&A but missed your list.
I swear, as soon as I have a stable income (after being a student) I will join your Patreon ! Love your videos !!
also: Iris Van Herpen
Rick Owens
I worked in Paris boutiques in the 80's and I know about fashion. Rick Owens is the only designer really missing in this list. The longevity, the attitude, the immediately recognizable look, the stardom, the muses, he has it all. Of course Jean-Paul, Vivienne and Gianni could have also but not automatically should have...
*Charles Frederick Worth* is the one I am disappointed you did not cover
I mean he is the OG of OG's
Welcome to the channel, Dr. Pit! Thanks for sharing your thoughts as you work through the videos 💫💫
And yea, Worth was one of the ones we left out on purpose 👀
Bliss you know I love you but. David Geffen is a billionaire / gay 7 billion and now you much follow me😅😊 love your content!!!
Would you ever do a fun video where you try and predict the trends and changes of the coming year and then do a follow up for how accurate you were?
yesss
He's said before he doesn't really care about trends and he doesn't think others should either if they want to develop a sense of style. Not saying it's a bad video idea , just that Bliss probably isn't the one to do it
@@jenniewalker6651 I feel that. I feel like it would work better than he thinks though… like product expansions for brands he likes or the success of certain upcoming designers
@@jamesscalise4990 ahh , less of trends in the general sense and more of a prediction of a brand's vision / designs coming up? I do like that. It could be fun to see him say "I like this brand / designer and what the brand / designer represents, let's see if I can guess where they might pull inspiration from"
As a separate comment on it , I do wonder how hard it might be to be able to guess thematic / inspiration choices for a runway show ahead of time , especially if those choices can sometimes be based around media references that don't tie specifically to this point in time , if that makes sense as a complexity
Dries Van Noten, Kenzo Takada, Valentino, Jil Sander, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Gianni Versace, Claude Montana, Lemaire, JPG, Franco Moschino
Awesome! Thank you! Could you elaborate on each? What makes them worthy of the list? Be specific 🦾
Walter Van Beirendonck
He is so playful and expressive with his designs. He has been important in merging streetwear with luxury fashion. He was also very influencial on designers like Craig Green. I like his stuff. Hes the best antwerp six person. bye bye.
Designers to consider adding to the list:
Madame Gres < Fluting and Grecian Goddess dresses
Mariano Fortuny > Pleating
Mary McFadden > Pleating and unique patterns
Valentino > Red
And also Biggles von Schübenmaeisser who popularised gloves as shoes with the "finger foot" (and shoes as gloves, i.e. the famous "hoof hand")
i think betsey johnson added a fun level of kitsch that didn't take itself to seriously and became very accessible for many over time without compromising her unique style, her designs stick out to me like a sore thumb in the brightest boldest, most playful way
I’m going to go out on a limb, and add Ralph Lauren into the mix. In terms of really honing in on his genre, Ralph Lauren is one of the pioneers of Americana. His catalog speaks for itself in that respect, and (this is my loose, personal opinion) RAF Simons’ Calvin Klein appointment wouldn’t have been so good without someone like Ralph Lauren already having so much definition to that genre already in place.
Sonia Rykiel!!!! sweater dresses and another master of black