The Most Controversial Fashion Show of All Time
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Today, we’re covering the most conceptual fashion show of all time - Comme des Garçon’s Spring 1997 show - Body Meets Dress-Dress Meets Body. This show lets us into incredibly important fashion designer Rei Kawakubo’s process as an artist, as we discuss how her impact in business and culture through this crucial show. The knowledge that I gained to make this video over the course of 3 years is supplied by authors on the subject whose work is listed below. We’re going to go deep into why this show is the best, most important, most revolutionary fashion show of all time. Through the original runway show, as well as her collaborations adjacent to it such as with Visionaire Magazine and Merch Cunningham, we will learn how concept made its way into fashion to stay for good - almost like this is some paid online fashion school :)
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Read the Visionaire Magazine 20 copy here: www.archivepdf...
Big thank you to ArchivePDF for providing access to high-quality images.
Works Cited:
Bolton, Andrew. 2017. Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between. 1st. ed. New Haven, Connecticut: The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Butler, Rex. 2023. Rei Kawakubo: For and Against Fashion. 1st. ed. New York, NY: Bloomsbury Publishing.
Evans, Caroline. 2007. Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity, and Deathliness. 2nd ed. New Haven, Connecticut: Yale University Press.
Frankel, Susannah. “Comme des Garçons: The Best Showroom in the World.” AnOther Magazine, March 10, 2017.
www.anothermag...
Gan, Stephen and Rei Kawakubo. “The Comme Des Garcons Issue.” Visionaire Magazine, January 1, 1997: 20.
Granata, Francesca. 2021. Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body. 2nd ed. New York, NY: Bloomsbury Publishing.
Grand, France. 1998. Comme Des Garçons: Mémoire de la Mode. 1st. ed. Kyoto, Japan: Korinsha press.
Hori, Victor S. 2000. “Koan and Kensho in the Rinzai Zen Curriculum.” The Koan: Texts and Contexts in Zen Buddhism, no. 1: 280-315.
Lamont, Bethany Rose. Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body, 2014.
bethanyroselamo... ml
Mower, Sarah. “A Day with Rei.” Vogue Japan, 2001.
?, Hilary. “I am going with dress ups, but what sort of dress?” SoLoveToSewLikeTheBoys, July 14, 2015.
solovetosewlik...
This video will likely make about $150 on RUclips. If you value this type of coverage, reflect that value on the Patreon. Link is in the description 💫💫
I love that your videos seem to be exactly the length that they need to be. If a video is long it's because you really needed that time to say everything you wanted to say and not because you're adding filler to stretch things out.
It's such great quality information packed into every moment. And the passion for it all shows up in a really beautiful way. I hope you and Daniella can keep doing this forever. Happy holidays to the both of you!
Wow damn! That means the earth to me, thank you! We have an internal rule about making good use of every minute of screen time. No filler and never say “this is too long”.
It means a lot that you pointed that out, thank you again :)
I always have to go back and rewatch many parts of it. That’s how intensely good you are.
This channel is out here doing so much work for us. The amount of info and interviews that i would never come across if not for these videos is immense and i can not even begin to express how greatful i am for this channel.
FOR REAL
Finally. 1h of bliss this like early Christmas
Amen
First 💫💫
❤
I cannot say enough how thankful I am to have discovered your channel half a year ago.
I’m always fascinated by the tremendous work you and Daniela bring to your videos: it’s fashion, art, choreography, philosophy - all meticulously connected together with a humble personal touch. Yours and Daniela’s work inspire me to learn and discover more, bringing me back to loving this life ❤
Thank you so much for the kind words and the tip, Maria :)
"Renaissance" is written correctly, lol. Look at the second "A", that's his way of writing it. Love your videos!
35:03 its correctly spelled, he just uses 'a' instead of 'ɑ'
So proud to be in the top 5 percent of attention spans!!! Seriously though, I would never consider NOT watching your work all the way through. It’s fantastic in the context of fashion and fashion history, but I always seem to come out of one of your videos with a new life lesson and perspective on art and humanity. You are truly special as a human and a creator. I always rekindle a childlike wonder while watching your work, as even though I’m not hugely into fashion (yet), I can always see the world in a new light when you talk about it. Specifically here, the fact that art this brilliant comes from randomized processes and rei never intended to create what she created makes me think about how I as a human could live a life intending to take on a certain character and be a certain person who affects those around me in a way, but that intention will never align with who I am. Instead, the accidents and experiences that the “pattern makers” of my life give to me through their words or through our shared trials will form an ever-evolving person that affects the world, including the pattern makers that helped to create me, in ways they can only understand for themselves. And in the public eye, the perception of my character becomes even more abstracted as its audience becomes more removed from the process; not understanding how art was made gives someone a different perspective on it than the artist as well, and if I am the art, then it’s always going to be important to understand that people I meet won’t know how I became who I am and will thus perceive me differently. Everyone has their own interpretation of me, and I need to analyze that character just as much as everyone else and set aside what I think I know about my story and my inspirations to really understand myself.
I ain't reading allat 💀
Love this comment!!
Exactly this. Team 5% :)
fax
Best hair in the game. Best skin in the game. Best knowledge in the game. Letsgoooo
Bliss, Daniella, please never stop these amazing research based projects. They are always so enlightening and really make the fashion world a thousand times more easy to dive into. Thank you for all your hard work you two. Im proud to be a patron of yours!
Thanks so much for the support, Lukas! Means a lot to me 🙏🙏
I was gonna comment how "Renaissance" is written correctly, of course some people already did but I can't shut my mouth and I have something to add : it's a french word which is not especially complicated for french people to write AND aside from it's historical meaning, it means "rebirth" ! Which I think is very interesting in perspective to everything that was brilliantly shown in this video ! Nice job, really enjoyed watching, will get some of those books you mentioned.
That mention of Merce Cunningham reminded me of the music of John Cage (his husband). It, much like in Kawakubo's work, works to deconstruct binary thinking, such as music-noise and sound-silence, transcending these binaries by unifying them into one (such as in '4'33"', 'Indeterminacy' or most of his pieces since the 50s really). It also stands out how Cage also tries to remove himself from the process by using indeterminacy, that is, leaving part of the process open to chance, in that way also breaking that binary of composer-interpreter, as the interpreter is sometimes left to improvise or to change the piece. Thus, Cage determines some parameters for the piece and then leaves it to develop by chance, closely resembling Kawakubo's process. Sometimes, as is espected, the pieces fall flat, but other times the music ends up being very beautiful ('Fifty-Eight' is pretty great).
Your comment mirrors many of my thoughts. I'm mire familiar with Cage, Cunningham and the world of art and philosophy than the fashion world, so this video was very interesting to me, seeing the work, and hearing her method of process, and the ideas and artists she's worked with.
This is fashion as art, and I see it as very different from what is usually referred to as "fashion" or runway shows dictating trends of what the geberal population wears a couple of years later. This artistry discussed here interests me (not so much the other, and never a Versace runway show). Cage used the I Ching in some of his work. Or let the imperfections of the paper he wrote his scores on determine the notation. He was deep into buddhist and zen philosophy and early experimentation with tapes, which actually also removed him from the performance.
A true visionary thinker. And Merce being his partner and often collaborator, their methods and ideas are often similar or the same, in different fields. They too were ridiculed at first, were very controversial. So much has hapoened between the early days of these creatives (the late nineteenfifties) and now, it may be hard for millenials and younger to really grasp. Breaking down preconceptions over time is a difficult task but a truly artistic journey to not just embark on, but find ways to stay invested in, to the point of removing their own perceptive bias from essential parts of the process, and is both ectremely diciplined and very brave.
Wgat an interesting video!
Bliss, you and Daniela have done a fantastic video honoring Rei and her work. I learned so much and could connect the dots when you brought her work with Merce C. All of a sudden, I got it! Thank you both for this very enlightening work.
Thanks so much for the kind words :)
*it’s Daniella with two Ls 💫💫
**thank you for thanking her 😌 that means a lot to me
Oooh. A deep dive. Just pausing to say thank you. I love explanations of conceptual art. Merry early festivals to you and your talented Ms. All the very best in the new year.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
OK, construction using down feather pads is Brilliant. Both for cleaning purposes and for comfort. It's like a reverse corset... or hip padding, but wherever you want the curve to be...
"Word Intention". Thank you. I live my life relying on spellcheck. I now have a label for what slips through the cracks...
"I never wanted my work to be understandable". That Woman goes hard. Damn.
I suspect Rai may make an exception for you two beautiful people. Cheers!
I think Julien spelled Renaissance correctly, he just draws his a’s strangely. He draws them like a’s with a tail hat on top, instead of like a circle with a stand
To me the dresses always felt like there are hands and other body parts touching and hugging the models. Just hidden under the fabric.
I was on Scholarship at Merce’s Studio. Sometimes the movements were impossible, literally. 760 degree rotation of the head/torso. Sometimes there will be multiple sections, like 4. He would randomly pick one at a time so it may be section 1, 1, 4, 3..for that day’s performance. The following performance may randomly be 2, 3, 1, 4. And the music would also have a different order too, generally. In 1998, he wasn’t super mobile. Around that time he had special boots made to take the pressure off is feet so he could move around. (His movement, takes a toll on the body..when you try to do the impossible)
Wow, that is fascinating! Thank you so much for sharing with everyone 💫💫
Uhm. Bliss, Julien spelled Renaissance correctly. Great video though 😊
I’ve been waiting for a vid like this for a long ass time, pls make more like this for significant collections in history like Alexander McQueen. Idc how long it takes i just hope for more mega deep dives like this in the future.
Great idea. I’m a different sort of artist (film concept art & I have a mural painting business), and I love looking at McQueen for inspiration ❤
This was fascinating, Bliss. Not only do I appreciate CDG much more now, you've kinda sparked an awakening of creativity in me with your binary segment. You truly have a gift for educating and your passion for fashion (haha) is evident.
I have never commented before but I wanted you and your team to know I'm truly gaining so much from this channel and deepening my understanding of the fashion world, which sometimes feels like a never ending universe. So thank you Bliss & team 🩵
Thank you so much! The team is just myself and Daniella :) the kind words mean a lot to us and I’m so glad the videos have been useful for you 💫💫
This video was incredible, worth it for the non-fashion obsessed even if to just listen to the binaries portion. Great work.
Agreed, I have little interest in fashion but this was fascinating
Do my clothes exist so I can wear them? Or do I exist so I can wear my clothes? Who exists for whom?
The drip wears me frfr
Interesting point about Rei removing herself from the brand by not naming CDG after her.
Since Jun Takahashi was Rei's pupil, I wonder if the name UNDERCOVER was chosen for the same reason? 🤔
WOW. What a video. The amount of time that it takes to research and write something like this, let alone film and edit it...
We don't deserve your (you and Daniella's) passion, but I am thrilled that we get to experience it
This also just scratched the liberal arts corner of my brain in such a happy way ♡ Also, damn I miss dancing.
What you said about the works cited at the end was such a good challenge and I needed to hear it. I've passed over some resources with excuses and this is the kick in the pants to do the reading, take the time to chew on and process alone.
Love to hear that! Would also love to hear what you think when you do some reading as well!
That Eagles football Example reached the very niche world crossover I exist in. Also, EXCELLENT video as always. Still thinking and processing.
as someone who’s struggled with an ED/ body dysmorphia for so long, i love that these clothes r enlarging these models in all the “wrong” places. there’s sm criticism today about dressing correctly for ur body type, which mostly boils down to obscuring parts of ur body that don’t fit the beauty standard of small and thin. in a way, embracing these lumpy grotesque clothes as a part of myself would feel cathartic.
great video as always💖
My own mother who has heard your voice for months now and has ended up listening to your videos said some very nice things about you! She said “he is so interesting and intelligent, and he has a nice voice to listen to”
I recently purchased a 2023-24 Cdg cropped wool jacket. The most I’ve paid for a single item. It’s perfection and so incredibly simple. Probably influenced by you to do this. When I wear it no one has a clue what it is.😊
Bliss, your analyses are unrivalled. You have found a method to explain complex and highly conceptual points in a manner that even persons uninitiated to fashion are able to follow and understand. You are not a fashion critic per se; it is more accurate to say you are a scholar of fashion who teaches us what to look for and how to interpret what we see. Fashion merely for fashion's sake is not especially important, but the analysis of fashion you provide IS important toward a deeper understanding of culture. Perhaps you are a fashion anthropologist?
31:40: Does La Wintour wear wigs? Well, strike me stunned. And here I always thought that was her hair. Silly me.
julien spelling correctly but coz he used the non-cursive a, it looks like an s. eccentric😂 i also came across someone doing the same yesterday but i can't remember who and what for😅
a whole MOVIE
I watch most yt videos in 720p but this one deserves 2160p
Hell yea 😤
Bliss just dropped a movie… WOW
we all love your work ❤
I doubt you’ll see this. However I think it’s important in case you do and for the algorithm. This video seriously helped me get over something I’ve been battling for a long time. I’ve struggled with binaries and fighting the concept of them on a philosophical level since I was a kid and it impaired my creative ability to the point where I had no actual creative ideas. This video helped open my mind past the understanding of what binaries are. As an aspiring fashion designer, and RUclipsr, I seriously respect and appreciate this masterpiece and everything else you produce on this channel. It’s obvious it’s your full time job, and I’m glad to hear the enthusiasm in your voice as you talk about your video topic, it’s authentic and comforting. I hope to be like you in the future, as a RUclipsr and etc.
Definitely saw this comment and I’m honored, homie. Thanks so much for the kind words 💫💫
Ahhh so good! I see another binge in my future...
Hells bells, man, when are you getting on Nebula?
Thanks again Bliss. Absolutely Excellent. Thanks for the inspiration requiring many hours of study and exploration and analyses.
I don't particularly see how Rei's process lends itself to producing something different. Seems she could follow the same process and produce something conventionally beautiful. It's just in her case the head of the process is oriented to producing something different, but that's not inherent in the process?
If you slow the playback speed to 0.5, I get to finally see what the flash of lettering says 4:57 & it makes you sound kind of like how Mike Birbiglia sounds with his normal speach. 🤣
Thank you so much for making this beautiful content to break down the complexity of Rei Kawakubo's work.
Dear Bliss and Daniella
I think you put in so much heart in making this particular content, that I felt extremely joyful watching it.
After watching your video, I happened to be driving in heavy traffic.
And in the midst of all that frustration and honking horns surrounding me, I only felt happy.
Maybe it was the sheer joy of realising that, holy shit, how can someone think like Rei?
Rei, and people like Merce, literally change the way we appreciate the beauty of the random and the weird.
Until I saw this video, I never knew that Rei's work had so much depth to it.
Thank you for enlightening us about it.
I needed to know that, to appreciate CDG beyond the surface level.
I also love that you are crediting your sources, for our enjoyment and education.
You have no idea how rare that is. It's also really smart.
Most people, in any line of work, love to gate keep.
You are both good people. Thumbs up. Subscribed.
And as soon as I have the money, I'm joining your patreon.
I'd love for you to analyse more CDG collections, though Rei might not😂
With all my heart, I hope you can keep making truly wonderfully educational, and insightful videos like this.
Also Tuesdays are a treat.
Content from Bliss Foster, Fashion Roadman and Hautelemode on the same day.
Tuesdays are glorious.
this is the absolute best video on youtube im so grateful for it.. definetely joining the patreon
Commenting for the algorithm :-D
Yes, take this, Oh Benign (?) Algorithmic Overlord Gods - both the Old and the A.I. - as this, my offering, to your math...
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@stevezytveld6585 All Hail the Algorithm
Comme des Garçons Spring 1997 and Rick Owens Fall 2024 ?
Rei Kawakubo is a visionary, even though, most likely, she does not want to be one. I love her imagination.
This collection was not mocked. It had fashion spreads in vogue magazine, Stella tenant wore it to a cocktail party, and lots of artsiphartsi people ATE IT UP! I appreciate you young whippersnappers doing these videos, but being there is an experience that can't be matched. At that time CDG was at one of their highpoints In fashion. Nowadays CDG is just smiley face converse. THEN it was a hardcore movement that EVERYONE respected. Keep doing your homework kiddo!
Deep… thank you for exposing us to more perspectives. I love that you, designers and many others want and make us take pause to consider different interpretations of our experiences and observations.
I love the idea of challenging ourselves to drive our own significant evolution. We all evolve but the thought of driving that progress intensely is inspirational considering the outcome of Rei Kawakubo and her as well as CDG’s broad regard.
Your passion for bringing these to us is incredible.
Around the 1:00 mark you can hear this comment: "Something was super unpopular when it came out and now is a classic. That happens all the time. It's the same story with STAR WARS...."
Can't believe no one has pointed out this strange error. STAR WARS was not "super unpopular" when it came out. Instead, STAR WARS was super popular when it came out. From the get-go. Its impact was immediate & overwhelming-as anyone who was around at the time can confirm.
YOYOYO?!
The industry didn't believe in Star Wars and gave it a limited release, but is was still a surprise hit and highest-grossing film until ET.
The black Parade debuted at #2 on Billboard and sold like 8 times their previous albums best week in it's first week.. But yeah it was shit lol.
great job! It’s as if you extended Kawakubo’s thought and went beyond the boundaries of the topic, creating something new, silent and beautiful. Thanks a lot
Amazing video! I can confirm Rei and pattern maker work together exactly what you said in the video. It was hard to get “yes” from her❤
"take ass shape for example" god i've only sort of observed the drama of girls going between wanting to be anorexic vs curvy and it keeps flip flopping with whatever is "in" and I'm just like--do none of these people ever get tired of it? But thank you so much for the amazing edit and verbage! commenting for the algorithm gods
Thank you so much for sharing this, this is really interesting and insightful
Non non renaissance is spelled right....in CURSIVE SHORT HAND ❤
I love you but mentioning “weave”and then showing a picture of Rihanna with the shortest hair she’s ever had is … (makes high pitched Seinfeld-esque noise) … lol
Georgina’s line looks slightly racist on the surface…or shape shaming and quietly making an example of bodies that aren’t euro-white or shapeless.
I like the content but the video it’s too much focus on you.
At the end we don’t see as much as we should images or references of the collection. I like your voice and your explanation but again it’s disturbed by the lack of focus on comme des garçons content
This is beautiful in the way that light you cannot see makes you feel warm.
This video is brilliant. Specially the part about binaries. Made me think about the reason why I want to perceive image as sound and use databending
this video is amazing and makes me very happy. Your enthusiasm about fashion and how you talk about it. Just makes me even more excited to learn about fashion.
I paused the video at 35:22 just to confirm that the word "Renaissance" was spelled correctly, as the person writes his "A's" the same way in both instances of the word. Not the correct cursive way, but an "A" nonetheless.... *continues to play video*
When the part of the binaries it starts i thought that you was intend to acept de ideia of the binaries… but this isn’t happen. To think how we see and how the world it works demand the acceptance of the complexities. The nature say this to us constantly. I hope the ideia of the binary starts to lose your stregnth because its too simple. Life its not simple
Rei's work may resist interpretation, but at the same time interpreting it is part of finding the beauty in it as an audience (as long as we keep her process in mind).
Thank you so much❤ and you are my inspiration and my life saver😂
I like best the looks that seem perfectly normal from the first angle but which show their real proportions when the model turns
This play of binaries is everywhere in art, specially where there is subversion, as subversion is an attempt to lift the repressed side of the binary
This was an incredible episode, thank you! I’ve always loved Kawakubo for how unsettled she makes me feel.
Thanks so much! It made folding my laundry a breeze.
Of course she doesn't want her collection next to Georgina Godley's collection... no amount of intellectualizing will ever negate the fact Georgina did. it. first. period.
I dont want to be the well actually guy but Star Wars was quite popular when it came out.
hmm if i had like a satchel bag, i might be able to lean it on my lump side to distribute its weights on the lump. idk
wait how do you know you’re top 5 percent, is there a youtube wrapped/rewind?
47:53 i didn't they looked long but that their bodies grew from the rock or echo its shape
by 5%er here: all the way through this i was thinking ‘this must have taken ages’, not the video itself, everything else. lovely work. i have some research to do on random choreographing processes
One of your best videos, there's so much in this analysis, worth watching it multiple times. Rei is peak postmodern art
I mean I've seen worse, they could've worked on the title though.
Absolutely amazing video!
Amazing video. Thank you for all of your hard work. I don't think anyone on RUclips is doing what you do. You are essential!!
35:23 It may be messy, but it’s definitely spelled correctly.
something about this feels so medical to me lol tumors swollen thyroids bloodshot eyes
Bliss I absolutely love you! Your work stands alone my friend. Keep up the good work!!
See > Julian Roberts' Subtraction Pattern Cutting
You really can't spell renaissance because it was spelled correctly
at 35:15 they definitely spelt renaissance right it’s just the worst “a” i’ve seen written
Would you consider doing a video essay on Leigh Bowery?
You’re saying Star Wars wasn’t popular when it came out? I personally haven’t listened to My Chemical Romance in ages probably because I got sick of them when they were in their prime
Yeah I just came to nitpick that trivial detail. I’m a film nerd and know nothing about fashion.
Sorry to be that person but I’m sort of confused by your reasoning
This video is beauuutifuul. So insightful and thoughtful
Glad to be at the top 5% , love you Bliss. I’ll join the patreon once I get my life together. Just realized there’s a student tier‼️ IM COMINGGG
Haha we’ll see you in there 🙏🙏
Omg love the video was so excited to learn more about the 1997 show of comme des garçons, I quote her work last year on my fashion memorandum for my diploma thanks 😊 for the video and for the incredible effort that you put in your works. ❤
looks like some of em have neck pillow attached to their dress
Wow I am so early this time
You did a very very good job on this video…thank you…
you have no idea how much i needed this video. i was trying to find an analysis of her works from this collection for my essay. You helped alot. thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!💫💫
havent watched yet but im praying bliss mentions georgina godley and doesnt leave her out as an inspiration like every other outlet
We cover Godley, most academics and serious media outlets cover her as well 💫💫
@@BlissFosterthank you king!!!
Extremely fair research, thank you
Thank you so, so much for the hard work! Always the best!
1982 was more controversial
And Leigh Bowery did it before all of them
kinda looks like othopedic pillow meets dress
OMG "Wigs" I'm SCREAMING
Wow! Can’t believe this took 3 yrs to put out! Thanks so much ✨💕
wait so rei doesn't do the designs for any of it?? there's a team working on creating everything for the company name but she isn't doing any of it...?
In a movie
writer writes the script
actors act
cinematographer films
lighting director lights
location scout picks locations
editor edits
➖
What does a director do? They are the keeper of the vision 💫💫