Thank you Danny for the video! I've been thinking of the kit route for a while to save money but the soldering seemed daunting. You make it look really easy! I really like that you are boosting musicians as well, because they really struggle.
A brilliant simple easily assimilated demo covering all the salient points. I started soldering when you had to heat a copper obelisk shaped head on the end of a rod with a wooden handle for big joints ie a car radiator a tomahawk weighing several ounces,
Thank you for creating this video! I've been a musician for decades and I haven't bothered soldering things myself for ages, so I've never learned how to properly do it. Your video was perfect.
Nice tutorial. Thank you so much. I was horrible at soldering. After watching this video, I am confident I can do a much better job by tinning and preloading the tip. Nice clean practical application.
Thank you for the video, I'm installing new speakers in an old truck and will now solder every connection instead of using the slide connectors you mentioned. I feel confident I can do it now. :)
@@nicholasreeves5025 Hey Nick, they have arrived but I have not built the cabinets yet. Working on those now. It will probably be 3 weeks before they are entirely finished. I'm going to have them professionally painted by a auto painter to match the Spatial Sapphire m3's I purchased as well. Hopefully have an update and a month or so.
for high end soldering, you should not solder by holding the wire in place with your hand because any vibration or shaking of the hand during the liquid to solid phase of the solder will weaken the connection - you need to mechanically secure the wire with a solid vibration free clamp system during this phase. Also, for the most reliable solder connection, a specialized liquid flux needs to be applied for a perfect bond - the flux that is in the solder core is inadequate,
Thank you for showing us. I was close and doing whated seemed right. That's what happens when called to that odd sodering which is in a blue moon. The only other sodering was copper pipes in the house, doing the handyman thing. Now I'm all staighten out.......
As a novice in soldering electronics, you'd think putting soder on the wire & speaker connector, the soder would impede a good connection. These videos are very helpful
For those of us with shakier hands I would recommend going through the hole at an angle to help support the wire from movement. Folks should be aware of movement of parts while solder is going from molten to solid can cause a disturbed or cold solder joint which can cause a high resistance poor connection. As a technician I do hate it when people wrap the wire round and round the terminal, it is not necessary when a J hook will do in an amplifier.
Great video- it helped a lot. Question: how can I clean solder off of a speaker terminal. Trying for a clean slate to try & solder it again. My first attempt has soo much excess solder. that I’m unsure if wire is even making contact with copper connection etc.
Hey as a response to asking what some artists to check out are... I would really recommend listening to some Tipper. He's got a pretty good following I guess, but I don't get the sense that a lot of audiophile folks are familiar with his music. Tipper is amazing though in my opinion, especially from a sound quality and sound design perspective. I've always wanted to listen to his music on a system of the quality that you have access to. I've seen him live a bunch on some really nice Funktion One setups, but I bet what you have would do it way more justice.
cool video, like how you are giving some artists face time that certainly deserve it. thanks for confirming what I knew about soldering. I respect your opinion, and wanted to see what you had to say. Only thing, is types of solder. I tend to use silver solder as it won't corrode for electrical circuits and speakers, but what type of solder do you recommend? maybe you have that on a different video?
Cleaning the tip every time keeps impurities out of the solder joint that gunk can spread like a cancer and break down the solder over time...keep it clean Danny.
I understand why you’re not doing it but I still plan on soldering the wire after twisting it onto the post. I’m mostly a PCB guy but contacts are contacts. First, apply flux to the wire (I drag my wire through paste flux then twist it onto the terminal). It should improve the strength of connection and ensure wire is not just floating in the solder. Like was said in the video, be careful not to overheat the connection and damage it. I’d lightly pre-tin the post, flux liberally, and use confidence while soldering the braided wire onto the post. You could/should clean the finished solder joint with the highest grade alcohol you have to remove any baked on flux/impurities.
When applying solder to tin the wire... to make sure the solder is flowing evenly threw I like to place my soldering iron under the wire. You will see the solder (once all the wire is up to even temperature) form around to where your able to see each strand of wire. After that I like to apply a little more solder after to make sure theres enough solder on my wire so that I can get a good connection 100%
Matthew Cooke...that's fine for stranded wire but Danny uses single strand pure copper wire for most all his connections including this demonstration .
@@ElCidPhysics90 ...Good question, I don't know I see a very large spool in the background he must buy it in bulk, personally I've always used OFC multi strand wire for speaker connections I was taught the more strands the better because the electrical signal travels on the outer circumference of the wire(s) that's the reasoning around the high count multi strand wire. But I'd say Danny knows a whole a lot more than I do so there's got to be a reason he uses solid wire over stranded.
I think the only problem with soldering is that you’ve added another level of connection in the signal path. Crimping would be the best. As a sidenote the FAA does not allow soldering in the wiring of any airplane.
Utter nonsense. If the FAA didn't allow solder in planes, there would be no planes in the USA... it is all through all of them. In FACT, FAA guidelines say wires should be tinned at the joint, to prevent oxidation on contact surfaces (with tinning being done with tin for lower temperature areas, silver for higher temp, and nickel for the highest temperature areas).
Hi Danny. Excellent video as usual... Is the wire you used in the soldering demo coated with something before the tinning took place? The wire looked like it was tin plated not bare copper!
Thomas Weeks and Force of Nature!!!!! he has a cd out and played at the gas monkey venue... his cd is great... check out the song "into the night"..... i saw him in seattle with enuff znuff and oh man did he ROCK the place!!!! this is his first cd....
Hi Danny, thanks for the tutorial. It's been a while since I did any soldering . Is 60/40 fine? Does the upgrade to silver solder make a difference? Generally what type of solder do you prefer/recommend? Thanks!
I'd like to know the same thing, waiting patiently for Danny to talk a little about solder types and no mention at all, kind of surprised he didn't mention anything especially because it's the thing that makes the actual connection.
Silver solder is for metal connections and has an acid core that will eat insulation. You want 60 40 tin lead, silver solder also melts way hotter, you don't want that degree of heat near engineered textiles.
Twisting wires together is the connection and is the best connection. It adds surface contact area. The solder just holds it there. That is not possible on the terminals. For maximum contact area on the terminals it needs to be done as shown.
What temperature does the gun need to be to heat the wire up enough to melt the solder? I bought a Weller that advertises 900 degrees, but it will not melt the solder.
I don't get why you want to put solder between the wire and the speaker connector. Solder is basically tin - which is what's in the crappy wire connectors. Why not splay the wire out for max contact to the speaker connector and use solder on top of that to hold it to the speaker connector? Maybe it wouldn't stick?
Really missed the boat on selecting the correct solder....and venting if using the common eutectic 60/40 lead tin solder. Maybe inhaling lead fumes makes you think a mechanical connection isnt better than solder only. In fact..with a mechanical connection first..much lest chance of undesireable crystalization from movement (aka cold solder joint) besides you have good electrical connection mechanically...soldering just adds longevity and insurance.
@@dannyrichie9743 but mechanical connection still possible..several ways. That said...ur method works....as long as perfectly still as solder solidifies
Danny, thats a nice touch to ask for people to share links of videos for artists that should get additional recognition. I have become a major fan of a group from Russia called Leonid and Friends who do covers of the group Chicago that are just astounding and have seen them in my area here near Pittsburg last October. They are simply amazingly good at sounding every bit as good as Chicago ever did and do their recordings in a studio in Moscow in a single take playing all together. This is unheard of and each and every one of them are fabulous artists in their own right. Their website is leonidandf.com and they have many Chicago songs and a few other great tunes from other American artists as well. It's kinda ironic for me to be such a fan of Russian artists as I quite literally had my finger on the button to launch missiles from my submarine to destroy Russia back in the 1970's.
@@StewartMarkley I'll spell it out for you. "I quite literally had my finger on the button to launch missiles from my submarine to destroy Russia back in the 70's"
Great video, 90% of the videos say to put it through the hole and had it down for awhile. Glad you pointed it out. I was going to get some quick disconnects, but now I think I'll just soldering it.
Years ago a small company I was working for had a contract manufacturer assembling products for us. They did a beautiful job stuffing and soldering printed circuit boards but when it came to soldering #14 wire to terminals. They were using ISO 9000 approved 20w irons that were great for fine work but just didn't have the balls for heavier duty work. We ended up using aa old fashioned 50w unger iron that had to be at least 800 degrees. The key was to tin everything first and then use a hot iron so everything up to temperature fast, apply the solder and take the iron away as soon as it all got up to the right temperature. The small iron just can't heat a larger joint up enough and results in poor cold solder joints.
Almost correct but the tinning of the wire had way too much solder on it and the solder should NEVER go up to the insulation as it can wick up inside and weaken the joint you make.
Hey Danny, good video. Just curious as to when Americans decided to drop the letter "L" from solder? It's pronounced just like "soldier" but without the "i" , which you guys can say just fine. ;)
Yeah, I find it amusing when I hear Paul Carlson from Canada on his RUclips channel Mr Carlson's Lab pronounce the L when he mentions solder. I never heard it pronounced with the L since I started soldering back in the early 60's. BTW, if you want to learn about electronics there is no better place on the internet to learn than at Mr Carlson's Lab. Maybe Danny could do some educational videos about designing crossovers and also about acoustics. I know I would be very interested.
It seems to me that this method would guarantee a "metal to solder to metal connection" rather than a more desirable "metal to metal" connection just "held together" by the solder. The signal would thus always be at the mercy of the particular "solder characteristics". Am I wrong? :/
Had always thought getting maximum metal to metal is important -- the reason why I went with "through the hole and twist". But I don't do this for a living so I'd follow Danny's from now on, and use good quality solder.
@TheBeautyfier I'm staying with a "maximum metal to metal contact" before soldering..through the hole and twist, if possible, just twist then solder if not. I can't conceive of that "not" being the better "sonic" choice, short of "welding". ;)
@@williamtoth6186 Kester 63/37 is even better because it is eutectic. Meaning that solder goes through 3 stages when cooling, that being in between molten and solid solder is a "plastic range" which the solder can be damaged from movement as it cools. The ideal ratio is 63/37 for tin/lead. It just snaps right to solid, more expensive I think, but worth it. Less rework of cold solder joints, more reliable.
You are right, but yes, you are also wrong. Wires are round, so if your wire is right up against the lug, with no solder, the contact surface area is still small. Using solder ensures every bit of the surface of wire has a clear path through the solder, to the lug, effectively making the soldered connection like a hugely fat, thick, very short wire, with no measurable resistance. And the solder prevents oxidation between the metal surfaces. Soldering, like this, is the best connection you can get.
Well, if you are being critical the iron is too large for the task but experience cancels that out. Too much solder was used on the pre tin of the wires. Also theoretically solder joints should never be the mechanical joint and the hole is there for a reason and the same contact area would be made with the wire fed through but it’s then difficult to replace but it shouldn’t need replacing. The most important thing is to never blow on a joint to cool it, as the material is a eutectic alloy and will crystallise.
It's wiring between two fixed points that aren't moving, there is no strain or movement on that wire, there is no need to use the hole for mechanical strength on the joint. Far better to solder it as he did, so it can be quickly soldered on and off.
WHY solder? You don't have to solder the other end of the speaker wire that connects to the receiver's speaker left or right input, you just insert the wire and tighten by rotating the red or black plastic fitting that holds the wire in place forever in which the wire end doesn't tarnish, its always a perfect connection without soldering. Why not have the same fittings that you tighten by hand to hold each wire on a 3 way crossover or speaker? You explain soldering quite calmly when a little mistake will ruin the 3 way crossover. When you hold that extremely heated tool what if the solder melts and then drips out of place and doesn't solder the wire, as this happened to me many times. Then if you apply the solder again you can damage the circuit board or crossover. Soldering is a very risky and painful method to connect wires, especially to the circuit board of a 3 way crossover. Ya gotta be a computer robot machine to do this with perfection.
Dominic dom...watch video again start at 00:43 to 02:00 and he explains why, Danny firmly believes in point to point soldering as much as possible of course you can't solder speaker wire to your amp but everything speaker binding post Inside cabinet to speaker the best purest connection is point to point soldering this includes crossover. He sells "Tube Connectors" that replace the typical binding post connection which are pure copper...but you're correct you don't "have to solder"...it's just the best connection possible.He talks about this a lot almost every video!
That why in car audio there direct leads what I don't understand it why isn't every thing copper ever thing is a different metal car and home audio I never seen everything the same type all the way to The amp/receiver. The speaker post are not copper and a extra fitting as well.🎵🎶👍👌✌️💯🥂
Copper? Copper? You want copper in your signal path? Give me Silver Ag, all the way. No better sound and audio range than that provided by Silver. Copper isn't necessarily bad, but Silver is absolutely superior. Signals move fastest through Silver as scientific testing shows. Worst case to cut down the volume of Silver used, place it only in the woofer signal path to help the woofer almost keep up with the tweeter. Signal will arrive at the woofer first such that it can begin overcoming its inertia due to it's weight before the signal reaches the tweeter. Thereby the 2 are kept closer in response time.
The velocity of the electrical signal in a wire is controlled by the insulation dielectric not the wire. Even if it was affected by the wire, the woofer and tweeter would have to be about 300 meters apart for the signal to arrive just one microsecond apart in time given with a velocity factor of close to 100% which is the case for speaker wires. But anyway electrical signals travel the same speed in silver, copper, or any other conductor material.
@@StewartMarkley Foundations of Analog and Digital Circuits by Anant Agarwal Jeffrey Lang (ISBN: 9781558607354, 1st July 2005): "If we are interested in signal speeds that are comparable to the speed of electromagnetic waves, then the lumped matter discipline is violated, and therefore we cannot use the lumped circuit abstraction"
@@StewartMarkley nordost.com/downloads/Leif%20brochure_LREnglish.pdf Even some of the finest wires on earth present varying velocities. Within the PDF note as low as 80% and as high as 96%. There would be no benefit to Nordost whatsoever to be dishonest in their documentation material. A 16% difference in relation to the speed of light is not meaningless at all. Woofers have greater inertia due to their substantially higher mass. Therefore ensuring signals reach them first increases the odds that they will overcome said inertia so as to produce sound more equal to that of a far lower inertia, lower mass tweeter. But thank you for your attempted insult of me.
But, Silver does have a cleaner and wider frequency response range, making their use with tweeters superior. Yet keeping a woofer closer in timing to the midrange and especially tweeter seems far more beneficial as the sound will appear more honest and clearer.
@@monkeymanstones1 Man, you have really bought into the Nordost sales and marketing hype. But even they admit that the velocity of the signal is a matter of the insulation and not the wire. But that aside, with the educated guess that the risetime of a typical woofer is about 100 microseconds crossing over to a infinitely fast tweeter, and the maximum difference in velocity of cables being 16% of the speed of light or 48 meters per microsecond, the length of the woofer cable would have to be 4800 meters shorter than the tweeter cable for the acoustic risetimes to be synchronized. This leaves us with at least three questions: 1. Would anyone ever use a tweeter speaker cable that is 4800 meters (3 miles) longer than a woofer cable? 2. What would the resistance, inductance and capacitance difference be of the 3 mile tweeter cable vs. the woofer cable? 3. Could anyone hear a difference if such a setup was possible?
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Best soldering tutorial I've seen. Thanks!
Thanks Danny. Small details like this are so valuable!
Thanks Richie. It is a very important element of the DIY community's arsenal and so many are doing it wrong.
Thank you Danny for the video! I've been thinking of the kit route for a while to save money but the soldering seemed daunting. You make it look really easy!
I really like that you are boosting musicians as well, because they really struggle.
A brilliant simple easily assimilated demo covering all the salient points. I started soldering when you had to heat a copper obelisk shaped head on the end of a rod with a wooden handle for big joints ie a car radiator a tomahawk weighing several ounces,
Thank you for creating this video! I've been a musician for decades and I haven't bothered soldering things myself for ages, so I've never learned how to properly do it. Your video was perfect.
This is very helpful. The way you speak makes me feel very comfortable lol
THANK YOU, great simple, straightforward explanation. Now it's time to upgrade my speakers thanks to you
Concise and simply explained - Woulve been the best teacher I had! Great video
Nice tutorial. Thank you so much. I was horrible at soldering. After watching this video, I am confident I can do a much better job by tinning and preloading the tip. Nice clean practical application.
Great tips, Danny! Thanks for the info, and another fine video!
Thank you for the video, I'm installing new speakers in an old truck and will now solder every connection instead of using the slide connectors you mentioned. I feel confident I can do it now. :)
Boy..do you have some steady hands!! Props to you sirr. Great work. Many thanks.
Thanks Danny! I haven't soldered in 20 years. Just waiting on the NX-Studios that I'll need this for. Thanks again!
David S have the NX arrived and how do they sound?
@@nicholasreeves5025 Hey Nick, they have arrived but I have not built the cabinets yet. Working on those now. It will probably be 3 weeks before they are entirely finished. I'm going to have them professionally painted by a auto painter to match the Spatial Sapphire m3's I purchased as well. Hopefully have an update and a month or so.
Awesome instructional video! Thanks for sharing. How can anyone "dislike" this video? Shame on them!
I love your videos!!! Keep on going!!! Kjell from Norway!!
Thanks Danny, valuable inputs.
The tinning and keeping solder on the gun are the keys
OMG- you just showed me why I was having such a hard time, BIG THANK YOU !!!!
why?
Nice tutorial.
My friend still owns a Gary Dodd battery powered preamp. Still sounds great, even by today's standards.
Very helpful. Good presentation style.
Your video was very helpful thank you
Thank you Danny!
for high end soldering, you should not solder by holding the wire in place with your hand because any vibration or shaking of the hand during the liquid to solid phase of the solder will weaken the connection - you need to mechanically secure the wire with a solid vibration free clamp system during this phase. Also, for the most reliable solder connection, a specialized liquid flux needs to be applied for a perfect bond - the flux that is in the solder core is inadequate,
Thank you for showing us. I was close and doing whated seemed right. That's what happens when called to that odd sodering which is in a blue moon. The only other sodering was copper pipes in the house, doing the handyman thing. Now I'm all staighten out.......
Thanks .. super helpful.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Sir. :)
Thank you for this video
Molly Tuttle is an excellent artist in the folk, bluegrass, americana sort of intercept...
Nice video!!! Thanks a lot, man. Cheers!!!
As a novice in soldering electronics, you'd think putting soder on the wire & speaker connector, the soder would impede a good connection. These videos are very helpful
My first thought too, so this is not the case?
For those of us with shakier hands I would recommend going through the hole at an angle to help support the wire from movement. Folks should be aware of movement of parts while solder is going from molten to solid can cause a disturbed or cold solder joint which can cause a high resistance poor connection. As a technician I do hate it when people wrap the wire round and round the terminal, it is not necessary when a J hook will do in an amplifier.
Thank you sir!
Thanks for this video I need this info
Musician recommendation: Gerod Shea (with or without Molten Soul). He's my close friend's younger brother.
Thank you
Yes thank you
Daria is super bad ass. Her band doesn't suck either. We all can thank RUclips for them.
Thanks for the very well done video. I'm just starting and this is very helpful! I'm going to thumbs up and subscribe to support your channel!
I am subscribed to Daria love it
Great video- it helped a lot.
Question: how can I clean solder off of a speaker terminal.
Trying for a clean slate to try & solder it again.
My first attempt has soo much excess solder. that I’m unsure if wire is even making contact with copper connection etc.
Hey as a response to asking what some artists to check out are... I would really recommend listening to some Tipper. He's got a pretty good following I guess, but I don't get the sense that a lot of audiophile folks are familiar with his music. Tipper is amazing though in my opinion, especially from a sound quality and sound design perspective. I've always wanted to listen to his music on a system of the quality that you have access to. I've seen him live a bunch on some really nice Funktion One setups, but I bet what you have would do it way more justice.
Very well explained thank you Sir. May I ask should I use flux when soldering in a replacement speaker?
cool video, like how you are giving some artists face time that certainly deserve it. thanks for confirming what I knew about soldering. I respect your opinion, and wanted to see what you had to say. Only thing, is types of solder. I tend to use silver solder as it won't corrode for electrical circuits and speakers, but what type of solder do you recommend? maybe you have that on a different video?
Perfect video that you!
Cleaning the tip every time keeps impurities out of the solder joint that gunk can spread like a cancer and break down the solder over time...keep it clean Danny.
Informative video, thanks!
I understand why you’re not doing it but I still plan on soldering the wire after twisting it onto the post. I’m mostly a PCB guy but contacts are contacts.
First, apply flux to the wire (I drag my wire through paste flux then twist it onto the terminal). It should improve the strength of connection and ensure wire is not just floating in the solder.
Like was said in the video, be careful not to overheat the connection and damage it. I’d lightly pre-tin the post, flux liberally, and use confidence while soldering the braided wire onto the post.
You could/should clean the finished solder joint with the highest grade alcohol you have to remove any baked on flux/impurities.
When applying solder to tin the wire... to make sure the solder is flowing evenly threw I like to place my soldering iron under the wire. You will see the solder (once all the wire is up to even temperature) form around to where your able to see each strand of wire. After that I like to apply a little more solder after to make sure theres enough solder on my wire so that I can get a good connection 100%
Matthew Cooke...that's fine for stranded wire but Danny uses single strand pure copper wire for most all his connections including this demonstration .
@@harryberry474 where do you find that kind of wire? All I can find is stranded wire.
@@ElCidPhysics90 ...Good question, I don't know I see a very large spool in the background he must buy it in bulk, personally I've always used OFC multi strand wire for speaker connections I was taught the more strands the better because the electrical signal travels on the outer circumference of the wire(s) that's the reasoning around the high count multi strand wire. But I'd say Danny knows a whole a lot more than I do so there's got to be a reason he uses solid wire over stranded.
Hi Danny.Great video.What was the full name of the soldering iron that you favour.I couldn't make out the first word.Thanks Steve.
I think the only problem with soldering is that you’ve added another level of connection in the signal path. Crimping would be the best. As a sidenote the FAA does not allow soldering in the wiring of any airplane.
Utter nonsense. If the FAA didn't allow solder in planes, there would be no planes in the USA... it is all through all of them. In FACT, FAA guidelines say wires should be tinned at the joint, to prevent oxidation on contact surfaces (with tinning being done with tin for lower temperature areas, silver for higher temp, and nickel for the highest temperature areas).
So all the circuit boards in planes are not soldered?
What a bullshit
Good thing we’re soldering sound systems in cheap cars, not airplanes
what a load of sht
So yeah I guess I've been doing it wrong lol. Thanks for the video!
Hi Danny. Excellent video as usual... Is the wire you used in the soldering demo coated with something before the tinning took place? The wire looked like it was tin plated not bare copper!
It is just four 9's pure Copper with a polyethylene jacket.
Good job Danny! I actually learned something here and have been doing it wrong... appreciated this episode!
Danny, is it possible to make one bookshelf like xls with this driver that you solder ;)
Thomas Weeks and Force of Nature!!!!! he has a cd out and played at the gas monkey venue... his cd is great... check out the song "into the night"..... i saw him in seattle with enuff znuff and oh man did he ROCK the place!!!! this is his first cd....
What type of solder wire do you recommend? 60/40?
63?
Thank you for this. What do you recommend between the crossover and terminal cup? If we already have those installed.. thanks!
There should be nothing between them but the wire used to connect them.
Hi Danny, thanks for the tutorial. It's been a while since I did any soldering . Is 60/40 fine? Does the upgrade to silver solder make a difference? Generally what type of solder do you prefer/recommend? Thanks!
I'd like to know the same thing, waiting patiently for Danny to talk a little about solder types and no mention at all, kind of surprised he didn't mention anything especially because it's the thing that makes the actual connection.
Silver solder is for metal connections and has an acid core that will eat insulation. You want 60 40 tin lead, silver solder also melts way hotter, you don't want that degree of heat near engineered textiles.
@@ZOMGWTFALLNAMESTAKEN Thanks!
Whats the model of your preferred soldering gun?
Why do you twist the wires together on your point-to-point crossover component connections but you don't twist the wires onto the speaker terminals?
Twisting wires together is the connection and is the best connection. It adds surface contact area. The solder just holds it there. That is not possible on the terminals. For maximum contact area on the terminals it needs to be done as shown.
I don't think the crossover building link is there.
pure gold is good for it?
What temperature does the gun need to be to heat the wire up enough to melt the solder? I bought a Weller that advertises 900 degrees, but it will not melt the solder.
Solder melts at much lower temperatures than that.
I don't get why you want to put solder between the wire and the speaker connector. Solder is basically tin - which is what's in the crappy wire connectors. Why not splay the wire out for max contact to the speaker connector and use solder on top of that to hold it to the speaker connector? Maybe it wouldn't stick?
That would over heat the connection and makes a poor solder joint.
Really missed the boat on selecting the correct solder....and venting if using the common eutectic 60/40 lead tin solder.
Maybe inhaling lead fumes makes you think a mechanical connection isnt better than solder only.
In fact..with a mechanical connection first..much lest chance of undesireable crystalization from movement (aka cold solder joint) besides you have good electrical connection mechanically...soldering just adds longevity and insurance.
Crimped connections aren't possible on drivers.
@@dannyrichie9743 but mechanical connection still possible..several ways.
That said...ur method works....as long as perfectly still as solder solidifies
Hello. What material you use to solder?
Kyrie by hscc Let me know what you think
Danny, thats a nice touch to ask for people to share links of videos for artists that should get additional recognition. I have become a major fan of a group from Russia called Leonid and Friends who do covers of the group Chicago that are just astounding and have seen them in my area here near Pittsburg last October. They are simply amazingly good at sounding every bit as good as Chicago ever did and do their recordings in a studio in Moscow in a single take playing all together. This is unheard of and each and every one of them are fabulous artists in their own right. Their website is leonidandf.com and they have many Chicago songs and a few other great tunes from other American artists as well. It's kinda ironic for me to be such a fan of Russian artists as I quite literally had my finger on the button to launch missiles from my submarine to destroy Russia back in the 1970's.
Is that something you were OK'd to tell?
@@porkchopspapi5757 what? That we targeted Russia in the cold war? That's not exactly a revelation don't ya think?
@@StewartMarkley I'll spell it out for you.
"I quite literally had my finger on the button to launch missiles from my submarine to destroy Russia back in the 70's"
@@porkchopspapi5757 so what?
@@StewartMarkley I guess that's the answer to my question.
what wire for soldering do you recommend ?
Great video, 90% of the videos say to put it through the hole and had it down for awhile.
Glad you pointed it out.
I was going to get some quick disconnects, but now I think I'll just soldering it.
Thats not what he said.
You can use the hole, just don’t wrap the cable around
Years ago a small company I was working for had a contract manufacturer assembling products for us. They did a beautiful job stuffing and soldering printed circuit boards but when it came to soldering #14 wire to terminals.
They were using ISO 9000 approved 20w irons that were great for fine work but just didn't have the balls for heavier duty work. We ended up using aa old fashioned 50w unger iron that had to be at least 800 degrees. The key was to tin everything first and then use a hot iron so everything up to temperature fast, apply the solder and take the iron away as soon as it all got up to the right temperature.
The small iron just can't heat a larger joint up enough and results in poor cold solder joints.
They have 7 song on amazon music, all higher than cd quality, but not dust in the wind.
You all need to check out "TOMASINA" she and the band are great! They once played TLT at Disneyland and around Southern California.
Nice! Thanks for the vid, what about Flux ?
Most solder has a flux built in.
Almost correct but the tinning of the wire had way too much solder on it and the solder should NEVER go up to the insulation as it can wick up inside and weaken the joint you make.
A lot of her singles are on Tidal, Apple Music, etc..
What about silver solder?
You bet. I have quite a bit in here that is 3% Silver.
Hey Danny, good video. Just curious as to when Americans decided to drop the letter "L" from solder? It's pronounced just like "soldier" but without the "i" , which you guys can say just fine. ;)
Yeah, I find it amusing when I hear Paul Carlson from Canada on his RUclips channel Mr Carlson's Lab pronounce the L when he mentions solder. I never heard it pronounced with the L since I started soldering back in the early 60's. BTW, if you want to learn about electronics there is no better place on the internet to learn than at Mr Carlson's Lab. Maybe Danny could do some educational videos about designing crossovers and also about acoustics. I know I would be very interested.
Yup. I've been doing it wrong.
It seems to me that this method would guarantee a "metal to solder to metal connection" rather than a more desirable "metal to metal" connection just "held together" by the solder. The signal would thus always be at the mercy of the particular "solder characteristics". Am I wrong? :/
Use good solder! Not the stuff from Walmart or the hardware store. Kester 60/40 has never let me down.
Had always thought getting maximum metal to metal is important -- the reason why I went with "through the hole and twist". But I don't do this for a living so I'd follow Danny's from now on, and use good quality solder.
@TheBeautyfier I'm staying with a "maximum metal to metal contact" before soldering..through the hole and twist, if possible, just twist then solder if not. I can't conceive of that "not" being the better "sonic" choice, short of "welding". ;)
@@williamtoth6186 Kester 63/37 is even better because it is eutectic. Meaning that solder goes through 3 stages when cooling, that being in between molten and solid solder is a "plastic range" which the solder can be damaged from movement as it cools. The ideal ratio is 63/37 for tin/lead. It just snaps right to solid, more expensive I think, but worth it. Less rework of cold solder joints, more reliable.
You are right, but yes, you are also wrong. Wires are round, so if your wire is right up against the lug, with no solder, the contact surface area is still small. Using solder ensures every bit of the surface of wire has a clear path through the solder, to the lug, effectively making the soldered connection like a hugely fat, thick, very short wire, with no measurable resistance. And the solder prevents oxidation between the metal surfaces. Soldering, like this, is the best connection you can get.
Push-on wire speaker connector, it must be 30 yrs since I have seen that done, gave away my age on that response.
No flux required?
It is built into the solder.
What kinda solder do you use?
Kester.
Well, if you are being critical the iron is too large for the task but experience cancels that out. Too much solder was used on the pre tin of the wires. Also theoretically solder joints should never be the mechanical joint and the hole is there for a reason and the same contact area would be made with the wire fed through but it’s then difficult to replace but it shouldn’t need replacing. The most important thing is to never blow on a joint to cool it, as the material is a eutectic alloy and will crystallise.
Oh and the iron should never be pre loaded with that much solder, that is bad practice.
I can’t edit so I’m adding the most important thing and why it didn’t occur to me? Fume extraction.
It's wiring between two fixed points that aren't moving, there is no strain or movement on that wire, there is no need to use the hole for mechanical strength on the joint. Far better to solder it as he did, so it can be quickly soldered on and off.
I don't solder because I always need to take my speakers apart after I built them because they never sound right ...
I take a piece of wet cotton string and wrap it around the factory connections just to be safe
Dammit. I thought the wire on the windowsill was a hair on my phone screen. Can’t watch the video it’s bothering me so badly.
Focus.... fouuuucaaassss :D Just kidding, thank you for the great video, it is very helpful, like all your videos! :)
WHY solder? You don't have to solder the other end of the speaker wire that connects to the receiver's speaker left or right input, you just insert the wire and tighten by rotating the red or black plastic fitting that holds the wire in place forever in which the wire end doesn't tarnish, its always a perfect connection without soldering. Why not have the same fittings that you tighten by hand to hold each wire on a 3 way crossover or speaker? You explain soldering quite calmly when a little mistake will ruin the 3 way crossover. When you hold that extremely heated tool what if the solder melts and then drips out of place and doesn't solder the wire, as this happened to me many times. Then if you apply the solder again you can damage the circuit board or crossover. Soldering is a very risky and painful method to connect wires, especially to the circuit board of a 3 way crossover. Ya gotta be a computer robot machine to do this with perfection.
Dominic dom...watch video again start at 00:43 to 02:00 and he explains why, Danny firmly believes in point to point soldering as much as possible of course you can't solder speaker wire to your amp but everything speaker binding post Inside cabinet to speaker the best purest connection is point to point soldering this includes crossover. He sells "Tube Connectors" that replace the typical binding post connection which are pure copper...but you're correct you don't "have to solder"...it's just the best connection possible.He talks about this a lot almost every video!
Shoot if your solder gun Isn’t hot enough it’s very hard but you work with what you got. Moral of the story don’t buy one that has a battery 🔋
Hi Danny! Any difference in using solid or stranded wire in terms of sound quality? Thank you.
Some, but there is an even bigger difference in the dielectric material.
My fear is with fine wired tweeters.
That why in car audio there direct leads what I don't understand it why isn't every thing copper ever thing is a different metal car and home audio I never seen everything the same type all the way to The amp/receiver. The speaker post are not copper and a extra fitting as well.🎵🎶👍👌✌️💯🥂
Man, was I doing this wrong! Thanks.
Great video, but don't use autofokus. Out of focus.
We're rookies still figuring it out.
Seems like to big a gun for this little work.
Sod of a gun 😊 👍
Copper? Copper? You want copper in your signal path? Give me Silver Ag, all the way. No better sound and audio range than that provided by Silver. Copper isn't necessarily bad, but Silver is absolutely superior. Signals move fastest through Silver as scientific testing shows. Worst case to cut down the volume of Silver used, place it only in the woofer signal path to help the woofer almost keep up with the tweeter. Signal will arrive at the woofer first such that it can begin overcoming its inertia due to it's weight before the signal reaches the tweeter. Thereby the 2 are kept closer in response time.
The velocity of the electrical signal in a wire is controlled by the insulation dielectric not the wire. Even if it was affected by the wire, the woofer and tweeter would have to be about 300 meters apart for the signal to arrive just one microsecond apart in time given with a velocity factor of close to 100% which is the case for speaker wires. But anyway electrical signals travel the same speed in silver, copper, or any other conductor material.
@@StewartMarkley Foundations of Analog and Digital Circuits by Anant Agarwal Jeffrey Lang (ISBN: 9781558607354, 1st July 2005): "If we are interested in signal speeds that are comparable to the speed of electromagnetic waves, then the lumped matter discipline is violated, and therefore we cannot use the lumped circuit abstraction"
@@StewartMarkley nordost.com/downloads/Leif%20brochure_LREnglish.pdf Even some of the finest wires on earth present varying velocities. Within the PDF note as low as 80% and as high as 96%. There would be no benefit to Nordost whatsoever to be dishonest in their documentation material. A 16% difference in relation to the speed of light is not meaningless at all. Woofers have greater inertia due to their substantially higher mass. Therefore ensuring signals reach them first increases the odds that they will overcome said inertia so as to produce sound more equal to that of a far lower inertia, lower mass tweeter.
But thank you for your attempted insult of me.
But, Silver does have a cleaner and wider frequency response range, making their use with tweeters superior. Yet keeping a woofer closer in timing to the midrange and especially tweeter seems far more beneficial as the sound will appear more honest and clearer.
@@monkeymanstones1 Man, you have really bought into the Nordost sales and marketing hype. But even they admit that the velocity of the signal is a matter of the insulation and not the wire. But that aside, with the educated guess that the risetime of a typical woofer is about 100 microseconds crossing over to a infinitely fast tweeter, and the maximum difference in velocity of cables being 16% of the speed of light or 48 meters per microsecond, the length of the woofer cable would have to be 4800 meters shorter than the tweeter cable for the acoustic risetimes to be synchronized.
This leaves us with at least three questions:
1. Would anyone ever use a tweeter speaker cable that is 4800 meters (3 miles) longer than a woofer cable?
2. What would the resistance, inductance and capacitance difference be of the 3 mile tweeter cable vs. the woofer cable?
3. Could anyone hear a difference if such a setup was possible?
Never solder without a solder fume extractor. Metal poisoning is no joke! Something this guy clearly doesn't care to explain to people!
I never breath the smoke from soldering, but I should have expressed that more.