do you mean the "background sound" behind the engine's idle on 12:08 (like a clocloclo)? trying to understand how it might sound for future me (since I have a high milleage car)
Damn, what a tough few weeks for this car. On the upside, now you can make a video about taking an engine apart. I've heard the experienced engine guys can make a good guess at why an engine failed based on the specific parts that are worn or damaged. Jay Meagher of Real Street Performance has shared some great videos about engine teardowns, refreshes, and building. Personally I think 16psi sounds like a lot for stock internals. The tuner said the timing was safe, but I didn't see anyone use a timing light to confirm that the actual timing at the crankshaft matches the numbers in the ECU. That is one of the basics that needs to be verified on a new standalone install, check timing at each of the cylinders before trying to fire it and also check that the timing stays stable and does not advance or retard at high RPM.
And remember that any oil lines on the car (turbo lines and oil cooler) are now full of shrapnel from the engine parts that failed. You need to thoroughly clean or replace everything that oil touched, to avoid hurting the new engine.
Tough break, I hope you were still able to enjoy the rest of the event! From what I saw walking around, it looked like you had a good turn out for the concours/showcase event. Keep at it and hopefully you can make it on track with the s2000 next time gridlife has an event there!
ya know I found this awesome t shirt on line and the description fits this situation perfect 😜😜 "To build to perfection starves the mind of appreciation. The Wabi Sabi tee aims to remind us all that imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete builds are worthy of attention and love as that's part of the journey." if it was easy everyone would do it. don't forget that also.... "never abandon what's important" been following you for a couple years on this build would love to see it through. don't give up on yourselves don't sell it build it without a time line don't rush yourselves. have faith!!!!
If you're not confident doing electrical, don't. It opens up far too many issues especially since stuff that seems to work at idle suddenly operates weird under load. From bad grounds, kinks or partial breaks in the wiring, to poorly seated or soldered or shielded connections. I wouldn't be too confident the engine failure is a mechanical or timing core issue if you never chased down what caused the fuses to pop in the first place.
So sorry for this experience! You can truly understand how heartbreaking it was to get it going after all the troubles it caused you, how happy y’all were, and then how it panned out.
Mannnnnn that sucks. I almost wonder if there was an issue going on while running the hondata that ended up causing the rotating assembly to have premature wear, referencing the fact that y’all said it ran so much better with the ecumaster ecu. From memory I know k series are typically pretty hearty but they’re not a fan of torque, but that’s getting to the 500-700 hp mark that they get not happy. Case in point Taylor Ray wihh the his k swapped cressida(?) at 700 hp, and the tq came in too early and caused him to snap rod #3 and almost crack the entire block in half.
There are NO low mileage JDM engines coming from the importers. Most if not all were not maintained and are very high in mileage. Best bet is you buy a US version K24a2 from a local wrecker and verify the mileage when pulling out of the chassis. Either way, its an $800 engine that should be easily replaced. Kind of the reason we all go K series.
don't give up!! you've come too far!! you guys have made great progress so far keep it up!!! don't sell it!! (from podcast) use the bumps as motivation! you guys got this!! keep pushing!! don't give up. prove the negative Nancy wrong!! you guys got this!!
As someone back in the rs grind and just getting tassys for the first time ever, and about to get my q50 tuned (when the damn exhaust shows up) this is such a strange timing and combination of my interests!
Arrrh man, that really sucks dude. The only reason a rod would shatter and explode like that is bad casting. As he said they usually bend and crack but not break like that. Have you checked your cam shaft for damage yet? Maybe the cam lobe had issues and caused a failure like that? The last time I had a rod explode like that was due to a lifter failing and locked the exhaust value closed. The piston then slammed the valve and the piston rod exploded from the impact. So it maybe worth checking your lifters make sure they are all good. In saying that as you said at the start of the video you are not an auto electrician and perhaps all the messing about when it was not firing did something ? Lifters are pretty weak and if it threw the timing out even a bit they can break if it is out of sequence. I did notice when you got it running it had a tick on first start up before the oil reached whatever is ticking. That could have potentially been a bad lifter on that cyl. Lifters are one of the things in modern engines that tend to be a failure point. If one of the lifter springs failed and the valve stayed closed it can cause failures like this. Chin up dude, this is building cars, build, drive lt, break and repeat. I know it can be hugely disheartening and I'll admit I've given up on projects when this has happened. It just sucks after all the hours of trouble shooting for it to end this way. But that is the nature of modifying car. For sure with second hand parts. Hell even brand new parts I've had many failures or faulty out of the box and these are big brands. I'm guessing this means a new block. Maybe it's worth just buying a whole short block assembly and starting over, second hand engines I've never had awesome luck with them. I know it's a big expense and a lot of work but if you start fresh with a new block, crank, rods, pistons and bearings the whole lot. You'll be better off I think.
@@red_ben3487 arth true. Haven't worked on too many Honda's in my day. Thanks for the info. Still I think something blew when they were messing with the wiring etc. on first start up there was a funny snap noise if you can hear it
Man.... im sorry Alex. As a viewer, even ive gained a slight emotional attachment for clapped car, its knowing how many hours of blood sweat and literal tears have gone into this build. You have an amazing group of staff around you, the car will come back stronger than ever. Much love.
If you want to get more seat time, you should try to look for a car close to stock so you won't be fiddling with a swapped project car and driving instead.
When I got my 1st tune at balladsports 510hp for my S2k it felt like it was going to fall apart so I asked my tuner armen to lower it to a safe tune at 400hp and it been running 2yr str8 fun car still smoking some v8s
Definitely a setback. Keep going. You got kicked in the nuts hard but that doesn’t have to be the end of it. Cause when you succeed it will be that much sweeter.
Definitely a gut punch, yeah. But thankfully, K20's are cheaper to source and buy compared to most. You can rebuild it Alex, to be stronger, faster, better, and more reliable.
But but K series are cheap... just swap in another one.. Or keep it F series and have factory forged, rods, pistons, crank. Also could have just went with the LinkECU g4x that's literally plug and play. So easy, took me 45 mins to install and setup my basemap on my ap1.
Please don't turn my beloved New Edge into an American S-chassis. I own 2 of these and don't wanna pay drift taxes on them. I own them cause they are cheap and that's all I can afford.
Or do research and realize this motor has made over 450hp easily. It made 478 on our dyno before changing it to an ecu masters. It not even making 400 here and blowing up. Hmm I wonder what’s the real issue.
K series can take forced induction just fine. Obviously there are limitations, as with any aluminum block, but these are good engines. I wouldn't go much above 400hp and expect to be able to daily it, but 400hp is fine.
The fact you made a video on an engine you blew up when all you had to do is listen to the sou d that engine made when you fist cranked it up makes me know you do not know what you are doing. The sounds that engine made when ceanking told me everything i meeded to know. Also you did not do any high milage maintenance to it plus without seeing any other video you mever checked the bearings.
I wouldn't have said it quite like that, but I agree. Buy a US engine and take the time and money you would have spent getting a JDM engine to inspect the rotating assembly
![BRASIL vs. PERÚ [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tbyOJKXfQnI/mqdefault.jpg)
Tough go. Holler if you ever need some help/support!
YES! Throtl teardown montage (:
This team up would be amazing.
We need this collav asap
You could hear the rod knock on that 1st start after you guys got the wiring done
do you mean the "background sound" behind the engine's idle on 12:08 (like a clocloclo)? trying to understand how it might sound for future me (since I have a high milleage car)
@@Izhkoortfirst clip in the video you can hear it just after startup
@@muxzzi3128 Thanks, I think I noticed it now!
sure can.
Subaru owner here, yeah that’s knock.
Always start with the fuses. That's what I learned fixing my truck. Such a simple but difficult lesson to learn.
He looked at them 3 times .. I think that enough
Apparently not 😬
Damn, what a tough few weeks for this car. On the upside, now you can make a video about taking an engine apart. I've heard the experienced engine guys can make a good guess at why an engine failed based on the specific parts that are worn or damaged. Jay Meagher of Real Street Performance has shared some great videos about engine teardowns, refreshes, and building. Personally I think 16psi sounds like a lot for stock internals. The tuner said the timing was safe, but I didn't see anyone use a timing light to confirm that the actual timing at the crankshaft matches the numbers in the ECU. That is one of the basics that needs to be verified on a new standalone install, check timing at each of the cylinders before trying to fire it and also check that the timing stays stable and does not advance or retard at high RPM.
And remember that any oil lines on the car (turbo lines and oil cooler) are now full of shrapnel from the engine parts that failed. You need to thoroughly clean or replace everything that oil touched, to avoid hurting the new engine.
Tough break, I hope you were still able to enjoy the rest of the event! From what I saw walking around, it looked like you had a good turn out for the concours/showcase event. Keep at it and hopefully you can make it on track with the s2000 next time gridlife has an event there!
Bruh, put the F series back in at this point
Nah
💯 F > K
nah
@@lcameeno1Lowkey
@@TheLastBimzyBetter than K series ngl
ya know I found this awesome t shirt on line and the description fits this situation perfect 😜😜
"To build to perfection starves the mind of appreciation. The Wabi Sabi tee aims to remind us all that imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete builds are worthy of attention and love as that's part of the journey."
if it was easy everyone would do it. don't forget that
also.... "never abandon what's important"
been following you for a couple years on this build would love to see it through. don't give up on yourselves
don't sell it build it without a time line don't rush yourselves.
have faith!!!!
If you're not confident doing electrical, don't. It opens up far too many issues especially since stuff that seems to work at idle suddenly operates weird under load. From bad grounds, kinks or partial breaks in the wiring, to poorly seated or soldered or shielded connections. I wouldn't be too confident the engine failure is a mechanical or timing core issue if you never chased down what caused the fuses to pop in the first place.
So sorry for this experience! You can truly understand how heartbreaking it was to get it going after all the troubles it caused you, how happy y’all were, and then how it panned out.
Feel gutted for you Alex. All the trials and tribulations for that to happen. It's harsh!
"low miles" every time i see that in a motor ad. its like 130k miles.
Chris needs a raise XD
Mannnnnn that sucks. I almost wonder if there was an issue going on while running the hondata that ended up causing the rotating assembly to have premature wear, referencing the fact that y’all said it ran so much better with the ecumaster ecu. From memory I know k series are typically pretty hearty but they’re not a fan of torque, but that’s getting to the 500-700 hp mark that they get not happy. Case in point Taylor Ray wihh the his k swapped cressida(?) at 700 hp, and the tq came in too early and caused him to snap rod #3 and almost crack the entire block in half.
There are NO low mileage JDM engines coming from the importers. Most if not all were not maintained and are very high in mileage. Best bet is you buy a US version K24a2 from a local wrecker and verify the mileage when pulling out of the chassis. Either way, its an $800 engine that should be easily replaced. Kind of the reason we all go K series.
this, i dont see any reason to import a k20
don't give up!! you've come too far!! you guys have made great progress so far keep it up!!! don't sell it!! (from podcast) use the bumps as motivation! you guys got this!! keep pushing!! don't give up. prove the negative Nancy wrong!! you guys got this!!
Dude just lost his bandos on his ironman account. Back to the grind brother.
Lmao
Underrated comment
What a perfect combination of my hobbies wtf lol
As someone back in the rs grind and just getting tassys for the first time ever, and about to get my q50 tuned (when the damn exhaust shows up) this is such a strange timing and combination of my interests!
What a weird place to see an RS reference haha. Hell yea
Bro I love your content so much, it’s so quality. But can we please get rid of the subtitles in the dead center lol
Man that sucks, was really lookin forward to seeing it rip. Head up tho, it can be saved.
Man, I'm following for quite a while now and is really frustrating, I hope this turns around for you!
I get k24 are cheap but I rather spend extra money on a freshly built k24 and then put it in my s2000
Arrrh man, that really sucks dude. The only reason a rod would shatter and explode like that is bad casting. As he said they usually bend and crack but not break like that. Have you checked your cam shaft for damage yet? Maybe the cam lobe had issues and caused a failure like that?
The last time I had a rod explode like that was due to a lifter failing and locked the exhaust value closed. The piston then slammed the valve and the piston rod exploded from the impact.
So it maybe worth checking your lifters make sure they are all good.
In saying that as you said at the start of the video you are not an auto electrician and perhaps all the messing about when it was not firing did something ? Lifters are pretty weak and if it threw the timing out even a bit they can break if it is out of sequence.
I did notice when you got it running it had a tick on first start up before the oil reached whatever is ticking. That could have potentially been a bad lifter on that cyl. Lifters are one of the things in modern engines that tend to be a failure point. If one of the lifter springs failed and the valve stayed closed it can cause failures like this.
Chin up dude, this is building cars, build, drive lt, break and repeat. I know it can be hugely disheartening and I'll admit I've given up on projects when this has happened. It just sucks after all the hours of trouble shooting for it to end this way. But that is the nature of modifying car. For sure with second hand parts. Hell even brand new parts I've had many failures or faulty out of the box and these are big brands.
I'm guessing this means a new block. Maybe it's worth just buying a whole short block assembly and starting over, second hand engines I've never had awesome luck with them. I know it's a big expense and a lot of work but if you start fresh with a new block, crank, rods, pistons and bearings the whole lot. You'll be better off I think.
I don't know enough about engines to guess what happened, but I think I heard some unusual sounds in the first startup video also.
k20 is not a push rod engine, no lifters
@@red_ben3487 arth true. Haven't worked on too many Honda's in my day. Thanks for the info.
Still I think something blew when they were messing with the wiring etc. on first start up there was a funny snap noise if you can hear it
@@UltraMagnis I definitely heard a rod knock when they fired it up 😬
At least youre replacing a $900 motor compared to a F which runs $3000+
Man.... im sorry Alex. As a viewer, even ive gained a slight emotional attachment for clapped car, its knowing how many hours of blood sweat and literal tears have gone into this build. You have an amazing group of staff around you, the car will come back stronger than ever. Much love.
If you want to get more seat time, you should try to look for a car close to stock so you won't be fiddling with a swapped project car and driving instead.
When I got my 1st tune at balladsports 510hp for my S2k it felt like it was going to fall apart so I asked my tuner armen to lower it to a safe tune at 400hp and it been running 2yr str8 fun car still smoking some v8s
8:20 - That box looks like an Innovate Motorsports LC1 wideband O2 controller. I hope it's not hooked up to the MAF.
Definitely a setback. Keep going. You got kicked in the nuts hard but that doesn’t have to be the end of it. Cause when you succeed it will be that much sweeter.
Man that engine completely detonated. If your combustion isn't on point, you will evacuate rods.
What does the low rpm torque look like?
Definitely a gut punch, yeah. But thankfully, K20's are cheaper to source and buy compared to most. You can rebuild it Alex, to be stronger, faster, better, and more reliable.
Sorry that happened mann, hope things get better soon!
Damn man that’s rough😢 this can’t be the end of clapped car tho you the boys will figure it out
Shout out to Chris! 14 Hours of phone diag, he's a saint! Oof! Thats way tough bro!
16 Hour days are rough
true
But but K series are cheap... just swap in another one..
Or keep it F series and have factory forged, rods, pistons, crank.
Also could have just went with the LinkECU g4x that's literally plug and play. So easy, took me 45 mins to install and setup my basemap on my ap1.
the black box is an innovate wideband
rebuild it to perfection f it. Love the content keep it up
Amazing work guys
'Taps' +bugle call. #teardrops
I feel for you man, the exact same thing happened to my turbo k24
Dude are they alll blowing up?
@@POVShotgun mine did last for 3 years before it happened
We got this.
It will all be worth it crodie
Whose yellow r34 is that
Time to go Toyota my boi get you a lotus or a MR2 🔥
Nah but in all honesty that sucks man I feel for you but keep ya head high and keep on going 💪🏼
Thumbs up for the video, thumbs down for your experience 😢
JWP Automotive in St. Paul may be worth a check if it's a trip you have time for.
Sadly this is part of the car scene tho. Things break at some point. Rebuild and upgrade and prevent it from happening again
10:53 Safety First!
16 hour days???
This is me rebuilding my e36
Nnooooo not the fire and then this bro that’s really tough but clapped car will be clapped car I guess
*Nerd voice* Why didn't you check the fuses in the beginning? That would have saved so much time.
I like my stock engine even more now.
Vtec hit back 🎉
Please don't turn my beloved New Edge into an American S-chassis. I own 2 of these and don't wanna pay drift taxes on them. I own them cause they are cheap and that's all I can afford.
Reach out to youngstatic
wow, insane work hahaha
Damn..
Come on man. Shesh
just use the f20c 😭
Should have put a rotor in it
first yeahhhh finallyyyyyyyyyyy ;)))
You are boosting stock N/A engine and you ask why thing break? Dont be stupid please
Or do research and realize this motor has made over 450hp easily. It made 478 on our dyno before changing it to an ecu masters. It not even making 400 here and blowing up. Hmm I wonder what’s the real issue.
@@Rps13Junky How long did it last with 450hp? 2 months?
He didnt even know the state of this engine
@@ivanjovanovic362 2 years. It just blew up.
K series can take forced induction just fine. Obviously there are limitations, as with any aluminum block, but these are good engines. I wouldn't go much above 400hp and expect to be able to daily it, but 400hp is fine.
The fact you made a video on an engine you blew up when all you had to do is listen to the sou d that engine made when you fist cranked it up makes me know you do not know what you are doing.
The sounds that engine made when ceanking told me everything i meeded to know. Also you did not do any high milage maintenance to it plus without seeing any other video you mever checked the bearings.
I wouldn't have said it quite like that, but I agree. Buy a US engine and take the time and money you would have spent getting a JDM engine to inspect the rotating assembly