This is the first video that I have found that shows what the vane sensor should read when solenoid is unplugged. Very helpful to those of us that cannot command the vanes or see desired position. I have an lbz with 300000 miles that was a hotshot truck. No city driving on it and has been throwing codes p003a and p2563 for a few years. I just clear them, truck runs great, even when I have the codes. Recently I got a cts3. Should have got that years ago. Anyway, I unplugged the solenoid, engine running and had not been started sense yesterday, and the vanes stayed at about 75-78% plugin or unplugged. Drove it up the road and got engine up to normal temp, unplugged solenoid and it went to 1 %. Truck runs good. Do you think this is normal, or would you say I have sticking vanes sometimes. I installed a new Garett sensor. Thanks for your video
Great! I posted this video to help others. The first reman turbo that I replaced had the duty cycle always around 80%. I removed the oil control solenoid with the turbo still in place and the end of it had a sandy/oily black goo. After cleaning and inspecting the plunger, there was visible wear marks. I cycled it with my power probe quickly many times and then it just stuck partially open. Banged on it and then the piston plunger closed completely. They reuse the old oil control valves! I would remove the solenoid and thoroughly clean and inspect. If it looks good then the unison ring is sticking. The solenoid bolt is a real pain but doable.
Do turbo leak boost test first - may only need boots tighten. If not just take the Turbo vain VGT out clean it and soak it in oil for 10 minutes and replace it. Check it out! Have a great weekend!😊
It sounds like it has either a boost or exhaust is leaking a little.my father's lbz had an egr delete put on it,and the block off plate had ripped the up pipe where the cooler goes.we took it off and welded a plate to it and it worked,but has a slight squeal
I have 2008 Dodge with the Cummins 6.7L and I keep getting just the p2563 code. I clear and it runs Ok then it will run a little rough and throw the code again. I was told that the actuator could just have a build up of soot and it may be sticky keeping it open. Is there an easy way to clean it without pulling the turbo to see if maybe that is the problem? Some type of aerosol like the STP buildup cleaner for intakes?
I haven't done one but there is a cleaning procedure for your engine. See if this link works:www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/attachments/3rd-gen-engine-drivetrain-2007-up-114/46514d1472931183-p2563-code-turbo-cleaning.pdf Combustible cleaners should never be used. Step 24 states: "Continue to follow the scan tool prompts. The prompts in the cleaning process may instruct the technician to clean the turbocharger using a second or possibly a third can of Mopar® Diesel Turbocharger Cleaner # 68044565AA. Use as many cans as requested but no more than 3 cans. If cleaning is ineffective, the scan tool may prompt the technician to replace the turbocharger." I would call your local dealer to see if they offer this service or a reputable diesel shop. You could get a tap/drill kit, cleaning kit and do yourself but I suspect it may not be as effective without a scan tool because it probably cycles the unison ring rapidly when it is in cleaning mode.
I have an 07 LBZ that I just got. Had the P003A code once and the rest of the time it’s the P2563 code. Emissions are in tact. Has a DSP5 switch but doesn’t work. At least I haven’t noticed any difference between the stages. Truck is not sluggish. I replaced the Vane Position Sensor on top of the turbo. Just recently got a cts3. Vanes are reading 80% at idle. I don’t have any way to get a proper scanner and do not have a power probe. But don’t really want to go to a shop. What do you recommend I do next to test this?
Since you don't have and diagnostic equipment, you may want to pull the turbo vane control solenoid and inspect it for gunk buildup and wear. The reman unit I pulled out of the box had black sticky goo on the end and scoring on the plunger piston. It's a pain to get at the bolt to remove but doable.
question for you, nobody else i see seems to know what they are doing. i did a cp3 on my lmm because the pump was making noise. it ran perfect. now that im finished im getting p2564. my truck was only down 2 days i cant see the unison ring being gummed up. i replaced the vane position sensor. didnt help. truck is sluggish at low rpms and boost comes in way late. like hae to force a downshift then it fires up and takes off.any ideas? i hear the vanes cycle after i start it
I checked identifix. The most common cause for code P2563 on the lbz and lmm is the turbo sticking. P2564 common cause is vane position sensor. Here are some recommended tests: 1. Start and run the engine to operating temperature. 2. Check the resistance of the turbocharger vane position control solenoid valve. It should be 3-7 ohms. 3. Perform the "Turbo Learn". 4. If the problem is still present, monitor the vane position sensor while using the scanner to command boost. 5. As the command to change is given, verify the actual vane position matches the desired vane position. 6. If the actual position oscillates more than 5% before stabilizing at the desired position, verify oil pressure to the turbocharger. 7. If OK, replace the Turbocharger Position Control Solenoid Valve. Inspect the solenoid for sludge and debris caused by insufficient oil change maintenance. 8. If the actual position will not increase to 100% as commanded, perform the test multiple times. Determine where the actual position stops. 9. If the stop position is always near the same value, the unison ring in the turbo may be sticking or stuck in place. Replacement of the turbo would then be required. Here is some more information: 1. Check the turbo vane position sensor signal voltage with a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) on the Yellow signal wire. 2. The voltage should increase from near 1 V to near 4-5 V. 3. If not, check the 5 V reference, Tan wire. 4. Check the sensor ground, Orange/Black wire. 5. Perform Turbocharger Learn if the sensor is replaced. 6. The learn can be done manually or with a capable scan tool, such as the Tech 2.
@@raincitywrench117 thank you. ive tried a manual learn byt im not sure ifvi did it right or its not working. i got it to temp. turned it off. fired it back up and inlet it sit and idle with ac off for about 5 minutes. to my understanding it should have done it butbi still get code with new sensor
I have these codes and my vane position on my cts3 shows it moving up and down when driving and at idle , so that means it’s not the unison ring ? And it’s something else ?
First off, is it really sluggish off the line and low on power? If it is then the unison ring most likely is stuck. You can test the turbo vanes and vane position sensor by pulling the plug on driver side of turbo, turn key on and push/pull on plunger all the way while watching vane position reading on cts. If it operates in full range along with vane position reading then turbo and VPS are most likely fine. Next would be to check the oil control valve which is a pain to remove. It can be checked in the turbo with a power probe. With connector removed, apply ground to one pin and power to the other briefly and listen for a click. If there is no audible click then solenoid is bad. Even if it clicks it could still be bad because the spool valve inside will wear hanging it up allowing it not to move fully. With all this said, the turbo, solenoid and sensor may be fine but pcm is not getting the vain position sensor signal because of bad wire or something else. You may want to get or borrow a scanner and check what the PCM VPS PID reads while driving before doing anything else.
@@raincitywrench117 it’s not sluggish at all I unplugged the vane solenoid and it went to 0% on the cts , I’ll try the other things you said to , thanks
If you are looking for just a scanner the Autel MaxiSYS MS906 is a fantastic tablet which probably has the most bang for the buck. It has US, Asian and European coverage with bidirectional controls. I am using a MaxiSYS MS908 in the video which is pretty much the same with a larger screen. Oscilloscope's are ridiculously expensive. I picked up the Snap-On verus edge that I'm using in this video used off ebay for $3500. It is a scanner + 4 channel scope. I bought it just for the 4 channel scope and almost never use the scanner function. I don't think snap on supports software updates on this unit anymore but wasn't planning on updating anyway. Think it's updated to version 19.2 so it can scan vehicles up to 2019. I use this scope all the time. Here are a couple videos with it in action:ruclips.net/video/8o9spX_w6Hk/видео.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench ruclips.net/video/bacDwmmojm4/видео.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for getting back with me. It would help me a lot if you could look at the menu on your Scanner and see which one cover the 2007 GMC 5500 Topkick on it. I am trying to avoid buying a scanner that do not cover my Commercial medium Duty Truck, Thanks Johnnie
@@samlee2408 OK. Have had my autel connected to Kodiak's before and were able to get complete data pids plus bidirectional control of high pressure fuel pump, etc.
I have a 06 lbz I am getting the p2563 code hooked my computer to it it's says my vanes are at 23% give it fuel going to 100% friend of mine has the same truck as mine with the same engine code his reads 80% at idle where I am showing 23% at idle any ideas
Here is a reply I sent to Riley. See if any of this helps: First off, is it really sluggish off the line and low on power? If it is then the unison ring most likely is stuck. You can test the turbo vanes and vane position sensor by pulling the plug on driver side of turbo, turn key on and push/pull on plunger all the way while watching vane position reading on cts. If it operates in full range along with vane position reading then turbo and VPS are most likely fine. Next would be to check the oil control valve which is a pain to remove. It can be checked in the turbo with a power probe. With connector removed, apply ground to one pin and power to the other briefly and listen for a click. If there is no audible click then solenoid is bad. Even if it clicks it could still be bad because the spool valve inside will wear hanging it up allowing it not to move fully. With all this said, the turbo, solenoid and sensor may be fine but pcm is not getting the vain position sensor signal because of bad wire or something else. You may want to get or borrow a scanner and check what the PCM VPS PID reads while driving before doing anything else.
Autel makes so many different models. I haven't used that model but if your scanner supports that function it will be in PCM output state controls or Bi-direction control or Other Tests. Not sure how it will be worded on your tool if it does have that feature but it will be in PCM/ECM TC vane position control solenoid output state tests.
The turbo vane sensor was working. The unison ring and actuator were stuck not allowing it to move. And this was on a remanufactured unit that one of the other techs already installed. I installed a second reman unit which fixed it. I did remove the oil control actuator and check operation before installing to make sure it would work before installing.
Hey man my 06 lbz has both of these codes and it’s sluggish when I step on it and after a few seconds it takes off but you can definitely feel the loss of power
Sounds like the unison ring is gumming up. There are a bunch of videos cleaning the turbo without removal. Here is one:ruclips.net/video/9hgqRldvjLw/видео.html&ab_channel=soapbox94 GM has a dealer approved turbo cleaning procedure in vehicle but forgot what the tsb# is. Removal is the correct way but they are a royal pain.
hey, did you ever figure out the solution to your problem on the lbz? Im having the exact same issue as you, thinking I'm gonna need to replace the turbo.
Авто/Мото
This is the first video that I have found that shows what the vane sensor should read when solenoid is unplugged. Very helpful to those of us that cannot command the vanes or see desired position. I have an lbz with 300000 miles that was a hotshot truck. No city driving on it and has been throwing codes p003a and p2563 for a few years. I just clear them, truck runs great, even when I have the codes. Recently I got a cts3. Should have got that years ago. Anyway, I unplugged the solenoid, engine running and had not been started sense yesterday, and the vanes stayed at about 75-78% plugin or unplugged. Drove it up the road and got engine up to normal temp, unplugged solenoid and it went to 1 %. Truck runs good. Do you think this is normal, or would you say I have sticking vanes sometimes. I installed a new Garett sensor. Thanks for your video
Great! I posted this video to help others. The first reman turbo that I replaced had the duty cycle always around 80%. I removed the oil control solenoid with the turbo still in place and the end of it had a sandy/oily black goo. After cleaning and inspecting the plunger, there was visible wear marks. I cycled it with my power probe quickly many times and then it just stuck partially open. Banged on it and then the piston plunger closed completely.
They reuse the old oil control valves! I would remove the solenoid and thoroughly clean and inspect. If it looks good then the unison ring is sticking. The solenoid bolt is a real pain but doable.
Do turbo leak boost test first - may only need boots tighten. If not just take the Turbo vain VGT out clean it and soak it in oil for 10 minutes and replace it. Check it out! Have a great weekend!😊
Great tip!
Mannnn That shit ain't gonna work lol
It sounds like it has either a boost or exhaust is leaking a little.my father's lbz had an egr delete put on it,and the block off plate had ripped the up pipe where the cooler goes.we took it off and welded a plate to it and it worked,but has a slight squeal
I have 2008 Dodge with the Cummins 6.7L and I keep getting just the p2563 code. I clear and it runs Ok then it will run a little rough and throw the code again. I was told that the actuator could just have a build up of soot and it may be sticky keeping it open. Is there an easy way to clean it without pulling the turbo to see if maybe that is the problem? Some type of aerosol like the STP buildup cleaner for intakes?
I haven't done one but there is a cleaning procedure for your engine. See if this link works:www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/attachments/3rd-gen-engine-drivetrain-2007-up-114/46514d1472931183-p2563-code-turbo-cleaning.pdf
Combustible cleaners should never be used. Step 24 states: "Continue to follow the scan tool prompts. The prompts
in the cleaning process may instruct the technician
to clean the turbocharger using a second or possibly
a third can of Mopar® Diesel Turbocharger Cleaner
# 68044565AA. Use as many cans as requested but
no more than 3 cans. If cleaning is ineffective, the
scan tool may prompt the technician to replace the
turbocharger."
I would call your local dealer to see if they offer this service or a reputable diesel shop. You could get a tap/drill kit, cleaning kit and do yourself but I suspect it may not be as effective without a scan tool because it probably cycles the unison ring rapidly when it is in cleaning mode.
I have an 07 LBZ that I just got. Had the P003A code once and the rest of the time it’s the P2563 code. Emissions are in tact. Has a DSP5 switch but doesn’t work. At least I haven’t noticed any difference between the stages. Truck is not sluggish. I replaced the Vane Position Sensor on top of the turbo. Just recently got a cts3. Vanes are reading 80% at idle. I don’t have any way to get a proper scanner and do not have a power probe. But don’t really want to go to a shop. What do you recommend I do next to test this?
Since you don't have and diagnostic equipment, you may want to pull the turbo vane control solenoid and inspect it for gunk buildup and wear. The reman unit I pulled out of the box had black sticky goo on the end and scoring on the plunger piston. It's a pain to get at the bolt to remove but doable.
sad I don't have any of this tools to figure out what is goin on
No cap on the resonator delete? That’ll screw with the MAF as well, also sounded like a bad boost leak when you were on it
You saw that 😎 I left the resonator off to gain access for testing but installed when done.
question for you, nobody else i see seems to know what they are doing. i did a cp3 on my lmm because the pump was making noise. it ran perfect. now that im finished im getting p2564. my truck was only down 2 days i cant see the unison ring being gummed up. i replaced the vane position sensor. didnt help. truck is sluggish at low rpms and boost comes in way late. like hae to force a downshift then it fires up and takes off.any ideas? i hear the vanes cycle after i start it
I checked identifix. The most common cause for code P2563 on the lbz and lmm is the turbo sticking. P2564 common cause is vane position sensor. Here are some recommended tests:
1. Start and run the engine to operating temperature.
2. Check the resistance of the turbocharger vane position control solenoid valve. It should be 3-7 ohms.
3. Perform the "Turbo Learn".
4. If the problem is still present, monitor the vane position sensor while using the scanner to command boost.
5. As the command to change is given, verify the actual vane position matches the desired vane position.
6. If the actual position oscillates more than 5% before stabilizing at the desired position, verify oil pressure to the turbocharger.
7. If OK, replace the Turbocharger Position Control Solenoid Valve. Inspect the solenoid for sludge and debris caused by insufficient oil change maintenance.
8. If the actual position will not increase to 100% as commanded, perform the test multiple times. Determine where the actual position stops.
9. If the stop position is always near the same value, the unison ring in the turbo may be sticking or stuck in place. Replacement of the turbo would then be required.
Here is some more information:
1. Check the turbo vane position sensor signal voltage with a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) on the Yellow signal wire.
2. The voltage should increase from near 1 V to near 4-5 V.
3. If not, check the 5 V reference, Tan wire.
4. Check the sensor ground, Orange/Black wire.
5. Perform Turbocharger Learn if the sensor is replaced.
6. The learn can be done manually or with a capable scan tool, such as the Tech 2.
@@raincitywrench117 thank you. ive tried a manual learn byt im not sure ifvi did it right or its not working. i got it to temp. turned it off. fired it back up and inlet it sit and idle with ac off for about 5 minutes. to my understanding it should have done it butbi still get code with new sensor
How the heck did you get that exhaust housing heat shield off then back on? Lift the body?
Royal pain. Was able to snake it out but lifting the body a few inches would really help
I was having trouble hearing you did you say that Turbo is bad I'm having the same issue with my Turbo
Yes sir. Turbo fixed it up & haven't seen it back.
I have these codes and my vane position on my cts3 shows it moving up and down when driving and at idle , so that means it’s not the unison ring ? And it’s something else ?
First off, is it really sluggish off the line and low on power? If it is then the unison ring most likely is stuck. You can test the turbo vanes and vane position sensor by pulling the plug on driver side of turbo, turn key on and push/pull on plunger all the way while watching vane position reading on cts. If it operates in full range along with vane position reading then turbo and VPS are most likely fine. Next would be to check the oil control valve which is a pain to remove. It can be checked in the turbo with a power probe. With connector removed, apply ground to one pin and power to the other briefly and listen for a click. If there is no audible click then solenoid is bad. Even if it clicks it could still be bad because the spool valve inside will wear hanging it up allowing it not to move fully. With all this said, the turbo, solenoid and sensor may be fine but pcm is not getting the vain position sensor signal because of bad wire or something else. You may want to get or borrow a scanner and check what the PCM VPS PID reads while driving before doing anything else.
@@raincitywrench117 it’s not sluggish at all I unplugged the vane solenoid and it went to 0% on the cts , I’ll try the other things you said to , thanks
So turbo needs to be replaced?
Yes, new turbo fixed it.
I have a LMM 2007.5 do I have to learn the vane sensor if replace the turbo
That I can't say but didn't do it on this previous LBZ gen
I have a 2007 GMC 5500 Topkick which one of these scanner do you recommend I buy I can not afford them Both, Thanks Johnnie
If you are looking for just a scanner the Autel MaxiSYS MS906 is a fantastic tablet which probably has the most bang for the buck. It has US, Asian and European coverage with bidirectional controls. I am using a MaxiSYS MS908 in the video which is pretty much the same with a larger screen.
Oscilloscope's are ridiculously expensive. I picked up the Snap-On verus edge that I'm using in this video used off ebay for $3500. It is a scanner + 4 channel scope. I bought it just for the 4 channel scope and almost never use the scanner function. I don't think snap on supports software updates on this unit anymore but wasn't planning on updating anyway. Think it's updated to version 19.2 so it can scan vehicles up to 2019. I use this scope all the time. Here are a couple videos with it in action:ruclips.net/video/8o9spX_w6Hk/видео.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench
ruclips.net/video/bacDwmmojm4/видео.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for getting back with me. It would help me a lot if you could look at the menu on your Scanner and see which one cover the 2007 GMC 5500 Topkick on it. I am trying to avoid buying a scanner that do not cover my Commercial medium Duty Truck, Thanks Johnnie
@@samlee2408 OK. Have had my autel connected to Kodiak's before and were able to get complete data pids plus bidirectional control of high pressure fuel pump, etc.
@@raincitywrench117 Ok, That is what i wanted to know.
Ive got a p003 code lbz 200k miles , got a newly rebuilt turbo on hand at least ... how do i relearn it ?? 90 second key on dont start ??
Did you figure this out?
I have a 06 lbz I am getting the p2563 code hooked my computer to it it's says my vanes are at 23% give it fuel going to 100% friend of mine has the same truck as mine with the same engine code his reads 80% at idle where I am showing 23% at idle any ideas
Here is a reply I sent to Riley. See if any of this helps: First off, is it really sluggish off the line and low on power? If it is then the unison ring most likely is stuck. You can test the turbo vanes and vane position sensor by pulling the plug on driver side of turbo, turn key on and push/pull on plunger all the way while watching vane position reading on cts. If it operates in full range along with vane position reading then turbo and VPS are most likely fine. Next would be to check the oil control valve which is a pain to remove. It can be checked in the turbo with a power probe. With connector removed, apply ground to one pin and power to the other briefly and listen for a click. If there is no audible click then solenoid is bad. Even if it clicks it could still be bad because the spool valve inside will wear hanging it up allowing it not to move fully. With all this said, the turbo, solenoid and sensor may be fine but pcm is not getting the vain position sensor signal because of bad wire or something else. You may want to get or borrow a scanner and check what the PCM VPS PID reads while driving before doing anything else.
@@raincitywrench117 thank you so much I really appreciate you
I have an autel mx tool how did you get to the command on off option in tool?
Autel makes so many different models. I haven't used that model but if your scanner supports that function it will be in PCM output state controls or Bi-direction control or Other Tests. Not sure how it will be worded on your tool if it does have that feature but it will be in PCM/ECM TC vane position control solenoid output state tests.
what autel scanner are you using?
MS908. Has been a nice little unit.
@@raincitywrench117 thanks man!
Or was it just the turbo vane sensor
The turbo vane sensor was working. The unison ring and actuator were stuck not allowing it to move. And this was on a remanufactured unit that one of the other techs already installed. I installed a second reman unit which fixed it. I did remove the oil control actuator and check operation before installing to make sure it would work before installing.
Thank you for the reply! Helpful
Over my pay grade
That's one job I wish was above mine. My ribs were real sore the next day even after using an overhead creeper with foam pad.
Who was the bad reman ?
That bad unit was supplied by Oreillys. I don't know who remanufactures there units though.
Hey man my 06 lbz has both of these codes and it’s sluggish when I step on it and after a few seconds it takes off but you can definitely feel the loss of power
Sounds like the unison ring is gumming up. There are a bunch of videos cleaning the turbo without removal. Here is one:ruclips.net/video/9hgqRldvjLw/видео.html&ab_channel=soapbox94
GM has a dealer approved turbo cleaning procedure in vehicle but forgot what the tsb# is. Removal is the correct way but they are a royal pain.
hey, did you ever figure out the solution to your problem on the lbz? Im having the exact same issue as you, thinking I'm gonna need to replace the turbo.