What an incredible job. Thank you so much for taking your time to make and post your videos. People like you who are selfless in sharing your knowledge with people like me who need a little help is what makes this video platform such a great learning tool. I appreciate you. Thank you. Robert
@@Hugh_Hunt yeah, it's THAT old! There were no full screen ads back then either just little boxes that popped up at the bottom of the video, remember that golden era
MIG's DVD is nice for those who want to pursue the method. I'm not a huge fan of the method myself, but like the info says it's been very popular so I thought I'd add it to the tutorials. Adam is a real pioneer, I enjoy his work.
@xxxxRINEHARTxxxx a part is just 1 measure of whatever you're using. If you're using a pipette a "part" could be 1 drop or 2 drops. If the mix is 2 parts white to 1 part black it would always be the same ratio of paint. A part could be a pint if you're mixing a lot of paint, it would still be the same ratio just different amounts.
@vintagestarwars yep the Vallejo air are not just great paints but acrylic and clean up in water just fine. They DO dry on the needle and tip like any acrylic, but it's simply a case of regularly cleaning with a cotton bud (qtip) to remove the residue. Painting this model I didn't suffer with it as much as I do when spraying a "field applied" camo like in one of the HD test videos, then I'm cleaning the tip pretty much after every spray.
Yeah I agree, the actual base mix is quite good (10 parts seagreen, 3 drops black, 1 drop insignia blue) and a nice tone for panzer grey - but if you're modulating you need to go light and blue is the nicer tone. Grey looks too flat really, and would be even more pale than the blue. Panzer grey is a really nice colour, very dark and imposing. This is more like a grey-blue, but I'd rather that than a grey-white. The tank would look like a B&W photo with too much exposure.
I would agree with this as I do something similar, i prime the model in vallejo black surface primer then I use white to paint just the center and main body of all the panels staying away from the panel lines leaving the edges and any shadow areas in black I then shoot the main color over it in very very light coats until I achieve the right under shading. it works fantastic on tanks and armor models as a whole. I favor German WWII armor mostly.
Oh oops I just read this... I forgot all about asking that. I just commented something similar on another of your videos. Thanks for the reply and great videos!
Another great video... it seems kind of like the opposite from what I have been doing which is applying a dark wash to bring out detail. I may give this a try once become more experienced with my new air brush. I wonder... have you come across any resources about painting a camoflauge base coat?
I dont understand how the airbrushes in all guide videos work so good and produce such steady and nice flow of paint. I only do modeling about 1 year, but almost every day, I started with some cheap airbrushes and never got results like in videos. The paint was clogging, sprinkling, or flowing too much and ruining model. Then I read more forums and watched videos, and I invested in good airbrush Badger patriot (very expensive for me, I am from poor country), but again same. I clean it after every use or color change. I bought proper acrylic thinner, drying retarder, airflow improver, even bee wax, always thinking maybe that one next thing is what is needed to make it work. And still its not good. If the paint mix is thicker it wont flow, or it spits paint with lot of collecting on tip, if its thin it flows sometimes in large bursts and makes mess. Airbrush trigger is killing me, it has lot of empty walk and then sudden burst. The ''optimal'' point is so small that its really hard to stay in it if I move airbrush around. There is no gradient when pulling trigger back. Also, even with super fine conversion set for badger I could not get narrow, round, precise line even from very close, even if its flowing steady its spraying too wide. So far, I have never been able to manually make camo pattern like some guys do in guides. Its just spraying too wide and its constant struggle and fixing and re-fixing, untill I get.. some kind of relatively clear borders. Its completely impossible for me to do thin layers like in this video because there is no small pull back of trigger and light flow. I now suspect compressor, cause its small one, for nail artists, up to 25 psi apperently, and i bought new one and am collecting cables and connectors for it. But.. I have impression airbrush should work much better overal. Tried also all sorts of paints and thinners and ratios.. vallejo model and air, AK, humbrol, tamiya, MRP, model master.. still same. Is it me doing something wrong?
I ran into this problem too when I first started airbrushing. Make sure you use the right paint to thinner ratio. I use more thinner then paint - 70/30. And keep practicing.
I’m afraid practice is the only solution. But if there are any rules to airbrushing there is these: You can never have your paint too thin. The thinner the paint, the more numerous the coats required to cover. The thinner the paint, the lower the air pressure. The closer you spray, the lower the paint flow, the lower the air pressure. Practice on paper, then move to a model and always keep the needle clean.
Hi Jon, Thanks for posting this great video. Very informative. You inspired me to go out and purchase that same Dragon kit and an Iwata airbrush to trying and duplicate your results. Would you mind listing for me the colours and products you used for the weathering stage? That would be REALLY helpful! I will send you a picture when I'm done if you are interested!
@PanzerM This is the old Dragon # 6264 Panzer IV Ausf E 3 in 1 kit. It is inaccurate but you can get it for a great price these days, it comes with a lot of photoetch and metal parts too... a good bargain if you can ignore the details which are incorrect.
There are a few guys out there who've made videos about painting camo. Perhaps I could add one in future, when I've got something from NW Europe on the bench, maybe a late panzer... I've got one in my stash to build at some point.
I try to make sure whatever I do is not kept a secret, so you can see exactly the same techniques and colours over on my other video "oils in layers". I used windsor & newton oil "Buff" for the most part, with some "Raw umber" and black for shading work. I don't bother with filters to be honest. The rest of the weathering was done using the chipping method which was shown on "Weathering Roadwheels" ! good luck, take your time and enjoy what you do ! cheers Jon
@MHMonsie the only way to get good with your airbrush is practise mate ! Spray on paper first, learn to control the spray. Make sure you ease off the paint before you ease off the air, that will stop the splatters. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS start your air flow with the airbrush pointing AWAY from the model - any paint left on your tip will splatter the model if you don't do this !! other than that, you just need to learn to control your airbrush and you will go from there!
So basically you keep thinning down the original custom mixed color of Panzer gray by adding the other color mixes to the live color mix in the airbrush cup? Correct?
Essentially. Different colors require different techniques. For example, when I do olive drab,,I start with black, then spray a yellow in the center of big panels, then switch to various shades of OD.
@ScaleModelMedic Hi, may i ask what do u mean by 3 parts US Grey, 1 part French Blue? is that some ratio to mix the paint? like 3 drops Grey and 1 drop blue?
Yes, it is possible, get some cheap ass acrylics, you can water them down, use very thin coats. Get some half decent but cheap brushes, big to very small in size. Buy a cheap ass model, and take your time. Use very thin coats and not to watered down. And be patient. (Also you can think acrylics to such a point you can use them as washes etc)
Hi, when using the mix as shown I was adding 3 drops of satin varnish. You can add more if you wish, it will simply adjust the finish. Add too little and you will get no effect though. As I always say - experiment ! find your perfect balance and stick with it. I've got mine - but it might not be right for how you like your models to look!
Your Panzer grey is too blue. It seems to have become quite popular these days, or with a few art modellers at least, to use a very blue Panzer grey, but photographs and surviving vehicles show us that this is incorrect ( i know its a hotly debated topic, but thats my 2 cents on the issue)
this was uploaded years ago when the blue fad started. it was the first colour mod tutorial on RUclips and was just riding the trend at the time. I would probably use mig ammo panzer grey now it's a good shade
Still, its a great tutorial on colour modding! Yes, I've heard good things about the mig panzer grey, i may have to try it out myself for my next german subject.
I have a question for anyone that can help, please. I am new to modelling and I want to airbrush, and I'm also new to that as well. I need to know whens the best time to paint, before or after assembly?? Also, if somebody could point me to where I can learn more besides video's. Thanks, I appreciate any and all help, Ken
+Kenny Williams peindre avant chaque pièce nécessite beaucoup de travail pour finalement pas grand chose ! , paint only the Wheel and tracks before , separetely and maximise the chipping
Nope, it sure isn't. It was a fad a long time ago (which is when the video was uploaded, its ancient) , and if you Google you'll still find a bit of debate about blue tint in panzer grey. Back then when colour modulation was new we were all doing this kind of stuff.
What an incredible job. Thank you so much for taking your time to make and post your videos. People like you who are selfless in sharing your knowledge with people like me who need a little help is what makes this video platform such a great learning tool. I appreciate you. Thank you. Robert
As a total beginner, this video is really helpful. Can't believe it was posted 13yrs ago!
Yes. To the absolute best of my knowledge it was the first ever free colour mod video on RUclips 😎
"The youtube 10 minute limit"
me: OMG how old is this!
Great video!@@ScaleModelMedic
@@Hugh_Hunt yeah, it's THAT old! There were no full screen ads back then either just little boxes that popped up at the bottom of the video, remember that golden era
Back when I had a full head of hair! I miss independent YT.@@ScaleModelMedic
MIG's DVD is nice for those who want to pursue the method. I'm not a huge fan of the method myself, but like the info says it's been very popular so I thought I'd add it to the tutorials. Adam is a real pioneer, I enjoy his work.
Excellent technique explained concisely....very helpful indeed....thankyou for sharing your skills
Verry instruktive tutorial about the color modulation technique. Well done!
thanks for this video, great explanation on this technique.
Great video! Thanks for putting this together!
Sir your talent is absolutely mind blowing. Thank you so much for your tutoring. It has helped me immensely.......
@xxxxRINEHARTxxxx a part is just 1 measure of whatever you're using. If you're using a pipette a "part" could be 1 drop or 2 drops. If the mix is 2 parts white to 1 part black it would always be the same ratio of paint. A part could be a pint if you're mixing a lot of paint, it would still be the same ratio just different amounts.
@vintagestarwars
yep the Vallejo air are not just great paints but acrylic and clean up in water just fine. They DO dry on the needle and tip like any acrylic, but it's simply a case of regularly cleaning with a cotton bud (qtip) to remove the residue. Painting this model I didn't suffer with it as much as I do when spraying a "field applied" camo like in one of the HD test videos, then I'm cleaning the tip pretty much after every spray.
Thanks for the advice. I have never used an airbrush but I am bout to get one from my pa. Excellent tank BTW.
Yeah I agree, the actual base mix is quite good (10 parts seagreen, 3 drops black, 1 drop insignia blue) and a nice tone for panzer grey - but if you're modulating you need to go light and blue is the nicer tone. Grey looks too flat really, and would be even more pale than the blue.
Panzer grey is a really nice colour, very dark and imposing. This is more like a grey-blue, but I'd rather that than a grey-white. The tank would look like a B&W photo with too much exposure.
it's an Ausf E, it was used in Africa and the Eastern Front in 1942/43 I believe. Markings are for the Eastern Front 1942
I would agree with this as I do something similar, i prime the model in vallejo black surface primer then I use white to paint just the center and main body of all the panels staying away from the panel lines leaving the edges and any shadow areas in black I then shoot the main color over it in very very light coats until I achieve the right under shading. it works fantastic on tanks and armor models as a whole. I favor German WWII armor mostly.
Oh oops I just read this... I forgot all about asking that. I just commented something similar on another of your videos. Thanks for the reply and great videos!
Another great video... it seems kind of like the opposite from what I have been doing which is applying a dark wash to bring out detail. I may give this a try once become more experienced with my new air brush.
I wonder... have you come across any resources about painting a camoflauge base coat?
Nice video thank a lot.
One question : Why do you prefer to make your own PanzerGrey. Vallejo has already a tone for that in the Air series.
Really stunning, thanks for the video!
Your videos are still bloody good. Come on back!
Paint some tiny Games Workshop 8mm tanks!!
I dont understand how the airbrushes in all guide videos work so good and produce such steady and nice flow of paint. I only do modeling about 1 year, but almost every day, I started with some cheap airbrushes and never got results like in videos. The paint was clogging, sprinkling, or flowing too much and ruining model. Then I read more forums and watched videos, and I invested in good airbrush Badger patriot (very expensive for me, I am from poor country), but again same. I clean it after every use or color change. I bought proper acrylic thinner, drying retarder, airflow improver, even bee wax, always thinking maybe that one next thing is what is needed to make it work. And still its not good. If the paint mix is thicker it wont flow, or it spits paint with lot of collecting on tip, if its thin it flows sometimes in large bursts and makes mess. Airbrush trigger is killing me, it has lot of empty walk and then sudden burst. The ''optimal'' point is so small that its really hard to stay in it if I move airbrush around. There is no gradient when pulling trigger back. Also, even with super fine conversion set for badger I could not get narrow, round, precise line even from very close, even if its flowing steady its spraying too wide. So far, I have never been able to manually make camo pattern like some guys do in guides. Its just spraying too wide and its constant struggle and fixing and re-fixing, untill I get.. some kind of relatively clear borders. Its completely impossible for me to do thin layers like in this video because there is no small pull back of trigger and light flow. I now suspect compressor, cause its small one, for nail artists, up to 25 psi apperently, and i bought new one and am collecting cables and connectors for it. But.. I have impression airbrush should work much better overal. Tried also all sorts of paints and thinners and ratios.. vallejo model and air, AK, humbrol, tamiya, MRP, model master.. still same. Is it me doing something wrong?
I ran into this problem too when I first started airbrushing. Make sure you use the right paint to thinner ratio. I use more thinner then paint - 70/30. And keep practicing.
I’m afraid practice is the only solution. But if there are any rules to airbrushing there is these: You can never have your paint too thin. The thinner the paint, the more numerous the coats required to cover. The thinner the paint, the lower the air pressure. The closer you spray, the lower the paint flow, the lower the air pressure. Practice on paper, then move to a model and always keep the needle clean.
@cv94080 Only because of how much blue I wanted to put into it. Normally I would've shot it with the Vallejo colour, I have total faith in them!
Hi Jon,
Thanks for posting this great video. Very informative. You inspired me to go out and purchase that same Dragon kit and an Iwata airbrush to trying and duplicate your results. Would you mind listing for me the colours and products you used for the weathering stage? That would be REALLY helpful! I will send you a picture when I'm done if you are interested!
@PanzerM
This is the old Dragon # 6264 Panzer IV Ausf E 3 in 1 kit.
It is inaccurate but you can get it for a great price these days, it comes with a lot of photoetch and metal parts too... a good bargain if you can ignore the details which are incorrect.
There are a few guys out there who've made videos about painting camo. Perhaps I could add one in future, when I've got something from NW Europe on the bench, maybe a late panzer... I've got one in my stash to build at some point.
Thank You! This video is great!
Good video !!! But Panzer Grey is more black than Blue.
Good info. Thank you for posting!
@MarcianoMMA
I usually paint at about 20 psi I think. I go more by feel, and adjust to suit.
wow i do love ur videos keep up the good work and psot ltos and lots of it i learn much by u : P
Very good, very helpfull.
I try to make sure whatever I do is not kept a secret, so you can see exactly the same techniques and colours over on my other video "oils in layers".
I used windsor & newton oil "Buff" for the most part, with some "Raw umber" and black for shading work.
I don't bother with filters to be honest. The rest of the weathering was done using the chipping method which was shown on "Weathering Roadwheels" !
good luck, take your time and enjoy what you do !
cheers
Jon
I might have missed it, but did you prime the model prior to applying the black base?
\Erik
This technique was brought forward by Adam Wilder. He also created a nice DVD video about it.
@MHMonsie the only way to get good with your airbrush is practise mate ! Spray on paper first, learn to control the spray. Make sure you ease off the paint before you ease off the air, that will stop the splatters. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS start your air flow with the airbrush pointing AWAY from the model - any paint left on your tip will splatter the model if you don't do this !! other than that, you just need to learn to control your airbrush and you will go from there!
Great video - thanks!
Would an application of black wash and light color dry brushing technique bring out the detail of the model as well, wouldn't they?
So basically you keep thinning down the original custom mixed color of Panzer gray by adding the other color mixes to the live color mix in the airbrush cup? Correct?
Essentially. Different colors require different techniques. For example, when I do olive drab,,I start with black, then spray a yellow in the center of big panels, then switch to various shades of OD.
@hangerbird
on my Iwata in this video I'm using about 25psi. I've tried the same pressure on some badger airbrushes and it needs to be higher.
Hi there, what make of airbrush do you use? Also, where did you get it from!? Thanks
@ Scalemodelmedic, Do you ever use colours from Vallejo model colour fore youre airbrush? And how is the mix then?
The tank si Panzer IV.But what type and where were used?
I'm afraid not. I may use it on future models I make, but not in any videos.
@ScaleModelMedic Hi, may i ask what do u mean by 3 parts US Grey, 1 part French Blue? is that some ratio to mix the paint? like 3 drops Grey and 1 drop blue?
+Kurumi Tokisaki yes, a "part" can be any measurement. eg; Litre, drops, whatever.
what kind of compressor are you using?
@sultanpuppy26
I don't have a Tiger kit at the moment, I already built it. I really enjoyed it though so perhaps I will do that in future !
How do you do part in Colors like one part white and 2 parts black is that in drops of the pant ?
Question that has nothing to do with the video: Can I paint the models with, like, a brush?
No money to buy a brush, let alone paint.
Yes, it is possible, get some cheap ass acrylics, you can water them down, use very thin coats.
Get some half decent but cheap brushes, big to very small in size.
Buy a cheap ass model, and take your time. Use very thin coats and not to watered down.
And be patient. (Also you can think acrylics to such a point you can use them as washes etc)
Hi,
when using the mix as shown I was adding 3 drops of satin varnish.
You can add more if you wish, it will simply adjust the finish. Add too little and you will get no effect though.
As I always say - experiment ! find your perfect balance and stick with it. I've got mine - but it might not be right for how you like your models to look!
What psi are you spraying at? Thanks.
Could you do another one with dunkelgelb?
Are you the guy in the airfix videos?
Yes I used to do videos for Humbrol and one for Airfix also, but that was a while ago now
ScaleModelMedic Yea, I remember your voice
Do you thin Valejo Air paints?
What kind of paints are using acrylic or enamel ? I'm new to airbrushing
You can use both, depends on what you're going for.
@backpain100
sure, I actually added washes after the colour modulation but this video is just about the painting stage.
good!!!!!!!
Your Panzer grey is too blue. It seems to have become quite popular these days, or with a few art modellers at least, to use a very blue Panzer grey, but photographs and surviving vehicles show us that this is incorrect ( i know its a hotly debated topic, but thats my 2 cents on the issue)
this was uploaded years ago when the blue fad started. it was the first colour mod tutorial on RUclips and was just riding the trend at the time. I would probably use mig ammo panzer grey now it's a good shade
Still, its a great tutorial on colour modding! Yes, I've heard good things about the mig panzer grey, i may have to try it out myself for my next german subject.
I have a question for anyone that can help, please. I am new to modelling and I want to airbrush, and I'm also new to that as well. I need to know whens the best time to paint, before or after assembly?? Also, if somebody could point me to where I can learn more besides video's. Thanks, I appreciate any and all help, Ken
+Kenny Williams peindre avant chaque pièce nécessite beaucoup de travail pour finalement pas grand chose ! , paint only the Wheel and tracks before , separetely and maximise the chipping
I think its a bit too light for panzer grey.
Sorry, you mentioned it at 3:10.
Nice tutorial but for me the panzer grey is a bit too Blue.
This looks nothing like what the actual colors were like on a real panzer IV.
Nope, it sure isn't. It was a fad a long time ago (which is when the video was uploaded, its ancient) , and if you Google you'll still find a bit of debate about blue tint in panzer grey. Back then when colour modulation was new we were all doing this kind of stuff.
Could have been an interesting video ... without the porn music in the back.... make it a complete waste movie
+3RiversRegt WOT
You watch really old porn, the soundtracks are much better now.
because i'm old and that's what I remember from porn movies... the music :)
10 minute limit? I've watched videos over an hour long on RUclips.... good video though
broderp it was different back in 2009
just got a new badger 200 airbrush and its great any tips on how to weather a model or to make the paints blend into each other
what kind of compressor are you using?
what psi are you using?