We like this demonstration. Just to add that drones that emerge in the top box, after the manipulation has taken place, can't get out and often clog up the top queen excluder. It's important to regularly release the drones, or you can put a top entrance on the colony. Some use an eek with a hole in it. The problem with Demaree is that you tend to get stuck in a reputative cycle. The Wakeford method of swarm control is worth a look.
I have already watched two of your videos (the Pagden Method and this one) and I think they are both very helpful and clear. I spotted a few Grammar and Spelling slips here and there, but they are otherwise IMPECCABLE. Thank you!
These animations are wonderful. I believe beekeepers would benefit worldwide with animation sets that show the different techniques to manage our hives. You have created a new standard for visual beekeeper training. Can you please share what software you use?
First off, thank you for this visual description. It’s very well done. I have a question if you could answer I’d appreciate it. Why do you need a queen excluder between the super and the top brood box that you moved up? I can definitely understand the excluder above the bottom box with the queen. Just curious. Thanks for the help
It’s to avoid drones going into the supers and so you can open the lid once a day to just let them fly out. When u resemble the hive you don’t want a ton of drones stuck in the supers.
I love the video. It is really clearly explained. My only thoughts are that there is no separate entrance for the top box. The Drones are not able to pass through the Queen excluder to leave the hive. Should you not allow for a separate entrance?
Such an elegant animation. Short, easy to understand. Only 131 likes ??? I'm in my first year of beekeeping. Have overwintered my first colony in a British National Brood Box. I'm interested in the shook swarm method of changing overload comb. However as a new Beekeeper I don't have any drawn out frames. If the Queen is in a brood box on a single old frame, surrounded with new undrawn foundation, are the other bees doing to draw out the new foundation & will all be well ?
@@nhbkatraining Many thanks. I shall give the shook swarm method a go and then monitor and utilise the Demaree method as appropriate. Forgive my typos. Appreciate your response.
To clarify, because it is not mentioned in the video- The "New Brood Box" is filled with what exactly? empty frames? other brood frames? nectar frames? honey frames? Are you placing the queen's frame into the new brood box with 7 empty drawn out frames? plastic frames?
It's best if the "new box" was fitting with drawn out comb. This way, the queen will have a chance to continue laying. It basically relieves congestion. This is why having drawn comb so invaluable for times like this. However, the remaining bees would still begin to draw out comb if there is a semi-nectar flow on. I would also add maybe a frame or 2 of pollen/nectar/honey in the new brood box, that way you don't leave the queen without any resources. However, the first super above should have plenty of honey that they can draw on, so I guess you just need to have some pollen inside the new box. Either way, bees will be bringing this in the next few days once they see the configuration and the queen having all these open cells to work with. This is my first time doing this so I'm learning with you!
@@realeyesrealizerealiesI tried this on 3 hives all 3 swarmed, I had queen cells in top and bottom boxes. I left 2 frames of (all) capped brood the rest was drawn comb in with her
@@scotthenderson4376 I feel like timing is also very important, because once they "want to swarm" it is difficult to prevent that mindset. I believe this method works great when you first see the signs of swarming, ie (QC with an egg or very early stages). The other thing that may have happened was you may have missed a queen cup ? Or maybe you didn't equalize congestion in the bottom box ? If you have swarm traps near by, you could make it semi-fail-safe with this method. Mitigating swarms is also luck based even if you've done everything needed to prevent it.
Excellent visual explanation. Just a question if anyone can answer, how would you store the top brood box if you didn't want it to be used to store honey?
Use a one way Clearer Board (Bees move down can't get back in !) Store Frames etc. And or wait until all Brood is Hatched, Freeze the Frames, give them back to another Colony etc. Hope this helps. 😎 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝 Happy Beekeeping 2023 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
That's pretty interesting, but why not make a second colony out of the box with the queen cups in it? I'm pretty new to beekeeping, just seeking information.
The entrance is at the bottom of the hive. The house bees move down to meet the foragers and store the honey in the supers. The only bees in the top brood box are the nurse bees looking after the eggs and brood until they are all hatched.
I have done a demaree method for swarm control, but now have a brood box with a number of frames capped with honey. Can I bruise these and put the on top of the crown board to get the bees to take it down into the actual supers?
To add some info to this: You should only have a frame of capped brood with the queen in the new box and add a frame of pollen if you wish. Do not put uncapped brood in the bottom with the queen. That brood frame will hatch and she now has new room to lay while workers build out the new comb. You are separating the queen from The uncapped brood and nurse bees. Nurse bees will not abandon the uncapped brood in the top box. This is why the method works.
what if the new queen is small enough to squeeze through the Excluder? Just pull it and some bees and stick it in another box, problem solved. No shell game involved. Keep it simple.
I do not understand killing the queen. Why not place her in a new hive with some brood and bees and let the new queen take over the old hive?? Thanks!!!!
We like this demonstration. Just to add that drones that emerge in the top box, after the manipulation has taken place, can't get out and often clog up the top queen excluder. It's important to regularly release the drones, or you can put a top entrance on the colony. Some use an eek with a hole in it. The problem with Demaree is that you tend to get stuck in a reputative cycle. The Wakeford method of swarm control is worth a look.
I have already watched two of your videos (the Pagden Method and this one) and I think they are both very helpful and clear. I spotted a few Grammar and Spelling slips here and there, but they are otherwise IMPECCABLE. Thank you!
These animations are wonderful. I believe beekeepers would benefit worldwide with animation sets that show the different techniques to manage our hives. You have created a new standard for visual beekeeper training. Can you please share what software you use?
That looks like Sketchup
That was brilliant - so clear and simple! Now to do it in practice. Thank you so much
First off, thank you for this visual description. It’s very well done. I have a question if you could answer I’d appreciate it. Why do you need a queen excluder between the super and the top brood box that you moved up? I can definitely understand the excluder above the bottom box with the queen. Just curious. Thanks for the help
It’s to avoid drones going into the supers and so you can open the lid once a day to just let them fly out. When u resemble the hive you don’t want a ton of drones stuck in the supers.
@@liamaiden2313 perfect thanks!
Also it helps if you miss a queen cell
I love the video. It is really clearly explained. My only thoughts are that there is no separate entrance for the top box. The Drones are not able to pass through the Queen excluder to leave the hive. Should you not allow for a separate entrance?
You can let them out on a regular basis by taking the roof off for a few minutes every few days if necessary.
Such an elegant animation. Short, easy to understand. Only 131 likes ??? I'm in my first year of beekeeping. Have overwintered my first colony in a British National Brood Box. I'm interested in the shook swarm method of changing overload comb. However as a new Beekeeper I don't have any drawn out frames. If the Queen is in a brood box on a single old frame, surrounded with new undrawn foundation, are the other bees doing to draw out the new foundation & will all be well ?
@@nhbkatraining Many thanks. I shall give the shook swarm method a go and then monitor and utilise the Demaree method as appropriate. Forgive my typos. Appreciate your response.
To clarify, because it is not mentioned in the video- The "New Brood Box" is filled with what exactly? empty frames? other brood frames? nectar frames? honey frames? Are you placing the queen's frame into the new brood box with 7 empty drawn out frames? plastic frames?
It's best if the "new box" was fitting with drawn out comb. This way, the queen will have a chance to continue laying. It basically relieves congestion. This is why having drawn comb so invaluable for times like this. However, the remaining bees would still begin to draw out comb if there is a semi-nectar flow on. I would also add maybe a frame or 2 of pollen/nectar/honey in the new brood box, that way you don't leave the queen without any resources. However, the first super above should have plenty of honey that they can draw on, so I guess you just need to have some pollen inside the new box. Either way, bees will be bringing this in the next few days once they see the configuration and the queen having all these open cells to work with. This is my first time doing this so I'm learning with you!
Thank you short sweet and to the point. After 3 years of beekeeping I finally understand the Demaree!
@@realeyesrealizerealiesI tried this on 3 hives all 3 swarmed, I had queen cells in top and bottom boxes. I left 2 frames of (all) capped brood the rest was drawn comb in with her
@@scotthenderson4376 I feel like timing is also very important, because once they "want to swarm" it is difficult to prevent that mindset. I believe this method works great when you first see the signs of swarming, ie (QC with an egg or very early stages). The other thing that may have happened was you may have missed a queen cup ? Or maybe you didn't equalize congestion in the bottom box ? If you have swarm traps near by, you could make it semi-fail-safe with this method. Mitigating swarms is also luck based even if you've done everything needed to prevent it.
I love your videos. Could you do one on shook swarm, bailey comb exchange and making splits...... they would be awesome
can you visited my chanel
But in Dimari’s way, we don’t separate the brood from the queen’s box
Excellent visual explanation. Just a question if anyone can answer, how would you store the top brood box if you didn't want it to be used to store honey?
Use a one way Clearer Board (Bees move down can't get back in !) Store Frames etc.
And or wait until all Brood is Hatched, Freeze the Frames, give them back to another Colony etc.
Hope this helps. 😎
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Happy Beekeeping 2023
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Why do you have to move the deep box instead of just moving frames?
To my understanding, in the original Demarrè method, was the opposite (queenrigth box isolated over the queen excluder, with no exit), am I wrong?
Do the bees tend to collect more honey than normal this way?
Bees don't collect honey, they produce it from collected nectar. Big hives produce more honey.
Hey, you got yourself a new fan :)
that's really useful, thanks
Excellent videos well done!
That's pretty interesting, but why not make a second colony out of the box with the queen cups in it?
I'm pretty new to beekeeping, just seeking information.
1:39
Will the bees not fill up the top brood box with honey in those 25 days of brood hatching?
The entrance is at the bottom of the hive. The house bees move down to meet the foragers and store the honey in the supers. The only bees in the top brood box are the nurse bees looking after the eggs and brood until they are all hatched.
In theory, yes.
I have done a demaree method for swarm control, but now have a brood box with a number of frames capped with honey.
Can I bruise these and put the on top of the crown board to get the bees to take it down into the actual supers?
But in Dimari’s way, we don’t separate the brood from the queen’s box
To add some info to this:
You should only have a frame of capped brood with the queen in the new box and add a frame of pollen if you wish. Do not put uncapped brood in the bottom with the queen. That brood frame will hatch and she now has new room to lay while workers build out the new comb.
You are separating the queen from
The uncapped brood and nurse bees. Nurse bees will not abandon the uncapped brood in the top box. This is why the method works.
what if the new queen is small enough to squeeze through the Excluder? Just pull it and some bees and stick it in another box, problem solved. No shell game involved. Keep it simple.
Then your slim queen wasn't a good queen to begin with since that translate into less eggs. Maybe a requeen is necessary
I do not understand killing the queen. Why not place her in a new hive with some brood and bees and let the new queen take over the old hive?? Thanks!!!!
But in Dimari’s way, we don’t separate the brood from the queen’s box