This is the best video out there showing clearly what to do. Better than any diagram or explanation! I'm recommending it to anyone who wants to understand. It shows that it's not that complicated really. Thank you
To be a bee keeping all you need is: For every hive you own, you need a spare hive and a spare hive for the spare hive, with a spare for that hive and so on, until you run out of money.
We would be tempted only to leave one queen cell, rather than two, in the original colony. Alternatively, you could make up one or more Two Frame Nucleus colony (#2framenuc) with any spare queen cells, if the genetics of the parent hive are worth propagating from. Of course, the problem with any method of increase is actually getting the new queen mated successfully.
Hello, i have a question: is it also ok to place the original hive further away than 1 mtr to the left and can that also be to the right? Like maybe 5 mtrs or so?
this way new emerged queen will be prone to swarm too because of their mothers genetics and next year we will have to follow same procedure again. I think best way is waiting 5 days and then pinching queen cells in the second colony finally giving second colony a new queen, produced from a less prone to swarming mother.
I believe when you find queen cells with larvae in. The hive is preparing to swarm. Hopefully the Queen cell will hatch and she mates successfully. Normally leave two Queen cells, first to hatch may kill second Queen. If not there is still the potential that that hive may swarm.
Hi - found this via Oliver St.John - fantastic video - I’d like to use in a training presentation - my only question is - why do you leave two QC? Thanks
1. Why feed the new hive? They have all the resources. 2. Why move the original box 7 days later to its original position? The original box will have all the original nurse bees that will soon become foragers.
If you are allowing them to requeen themself then you must feed and have plenty of pollen for them to produce a good queen. it ensures they think they are on a nectar flow, which is needed to produce a decent queen.
benjamin earls i have a video from last year where i showed the results of an artificial swarm. In 2 weeks they drew out the whole box. Swarms draw comb man, that’s what they do. I’ve seen it over and over.
This is the best video out there showing clearly what to do. Better than any diagram or explanation! I'm recommending it to anyone who wants to understand. It shows that it's not that complicated really. Thank you
To be a bee keeping all you need is:
For every hive you own, you need a spare hive and a spare hive for the spare hive, with a spare for that hive and so on, until you run out of money.
We would be tempted only to leave one queen cell, rather than two, in the original colony. Alternatively, you could make up one or more Two Frame Nucleus colony (#2framenuc) with any spare queen cells, if the genetics of the parent hive are worth propagating from. Of course, the problem with any method of increase is actually getting the new queen mated successfully.
Great video explained simply, thank you
Great video! Please tell me what prgramme you used to create it.
Thanks for this excellent explanation.
Hello, i have a question: is it also ok to place the original hive further away than 1 mtr to the left and can that also be to the right? Like maybe 5 mtrs or so?
Should be minimum of 1 meter. Further away the better (5 better than1!)
this way new emerged queen will be prone to swarm too because of their mothers genetics and next year we will have to follow same procedure again. I think best way is waiting 5 days and then pinching queen cells in the second colony finally giving second colony a new queen, produced from a less prone to swarming mother.
Thanks a lot. Great explanation.
Hello Sir. I am from the Netherlands. Great video, but when do you do it? (What week, month?)
I believe when you find queen cells with larvae in. The hive is preparing to swarm. Hopefully the Queen cell will hatch and she mates successfully.
Normally leave two Queen cells, first to hatch may kill second Queen. If not there is still the potential that that hive may swarm.
love this video...thanks.....why do you put a queen excluder on top of new box with queen?
thanks so much!!!
Excellent Video thank you!
Hi - found this via Oliver St.John - fantastic video - I’d like to use in a training presentation - my only question is - why do you leave two QC? Thanks
Oliver St.John gets everywhere doesn't he! :P
Very good sir, thank with this video, can help anyone, hope u will be bless by yesus
1. Why feed the new hive? They have all the resources.
2. Why move the original box 7 days later to its original position? The original box will have all the original nurse bees that will soon become foragers.
If you are allowing them to requeen themself then you must feed and have plenty of pollen for them to produce a good queen. it ensures they think they are on a nectar flow, which is needed to produce a decent queen.
liked the vid as much as you seem to like Cuban Pete ;¬)
okay so I just did this... lets see how we go.
Wait...the old queen only needs 1 frame with broods?
Yep! But the bees must be in swarm mode. They’ll draw all that foundation out in no time
Decatur Ridge Bees but without nurse bees they won’t be able to use the drawn out frames for a while.
benjamin earls i have a video from last year where i showed the results of an artificial swarm. In 2 weeks they drew out the whole box. Swarms draw comb man, that’s what they do. I’ve seen it over and over.