I love the idea of using this for ethernet or other signal carrying low voltage. Makes a replacement easy to fish, simple to setup, relatively low cost and no interference like with metal conduit.
I first used this when the product was relatively new in the early 80's. The project would have been a flex metal job, but the suppliers were up-selling the ENT. It was definitely easier to use than the metal flex, but at that time the plastic 4-S boxes weren't available or were the connectors. Metal 4-S boxes were used, and to solve the lack of connector issue, PVC MA's were cemented on. This was one of our inspector’s first encounters with the wiring method, and were very interested or confused. It passed their scrutiny. That was about the last time I used it as a complete wiring system as it fell out of favor as it became more expensive. I now use it in cabinets to protect exposed NM cable.
@@MountaineerOutdoors, one question I had was about running NM inside this tubing. This is not a problem from the code standpoint? I've always wondered whether the jacket on the NM would mess up the fill requirements.
I'm getting ready to run a few of these through my wall between 1st/2nd/attic to fish a fiber line and some cat6a low voltage. I have yet to find any video demonstrating the best method for attaching the actual tubing to studs in the wall and through the bottom/top plates. Any advice? Should I attach it up a stud but then bring it towards the center of the 2 studs (16 on center) and punch through the plate in the middle of the 2 studs, then curve it back toward the stud on the other floor? or should I just run it in a straight line right up a stud path?
Interesting but we just used PVC fittings and glue there was some problem with the fittings come loose in the wall after it was finished. Our inspector said it was okay. Really to tell the truth I hate that smurf pipe I rather use armor cable it's already got wire and everything.
If you want to be pedantic and be on the conservative side, you may need a bonding/grounding locknut when securing to a nonmetal box or enclosure, as the metal locknut would be a conductive surface. This shouldn’t be an issue with metal boxes as the locknut would securely make contact with the metal wall.
I love the idea of using this for ethernet or other signal carrying low voltage. Makes a replacement easy to fish, simple to setup, relatively low cost and no interference like with metal conduit.
Yep that stuff is pretty cool. It would definitely be great for that application
Not only are you smart but you’re funny guy thank you for the video.
Always my pleasure thanks for watching and commenting and the nice words
I first used this when the product was relatively new in the early 80's. The project would have been a flex metal job, but the suppliers were up-selling the ENT. It was definitely easier to use than the metal flex, but at that time the plastic 4-S boxes weren't available or were the connectors. Metal 4-S boxes were used, and to solve the lack of connector issue, PVC MA's were cemented on. This was one of our inspector’s first encounters with the wiring method, and were very interested or confused. It passed their scrutiny. That was about the last time I used it as a complete wiring system as it fell out of favor as it became more expensive. I now use it in cabinets to protect exposed NM cable.
Interesting story, I just used it on a dishwasher circuit inside a cabin to sleeve romex to a junction box. Thanks for the story and watching.
@@MountaineerOutdoors, one question I had was about running NM inside this tubing. This is not a problem from the code standpoint? I've always wondered whether the jacket on the NM would mess up the fill requirements.
Thanks for sharing.wish I knew about that when I was building my home .👍
Yep me too I had forgotten all about it until one day I was in Lowe's and someone was talking about it. It's pretty handy
how do you add strain relief to the tubing when you have wires coming into the box?
They sell straps that's what I would use.
@@MountaineerOutdoors thank you for the advice!
I'm getting ready to run a few of these through my wall between 1st/2nd/attic to fish a fiber line and some cat6a low voltage. I have yet to find any video demonstrating the best method for attaching the actual tubing to studs in the wall and through the bottom/top plates. Any advice? Should I attach it up a stud but then bring it towards the center of the 2 studs (16 on center) and punch through the plate in the middle of the 2 studs, then curve it back toward the stud on the other floor? or should I just run it in a straight line right up a stud path?
Is it open walls?
@@MountaineerOutdoors it will be, once I finish opening them :)
I would say staple or maybe a one hole strap.
Interesting but we just used PVC fittings and glue there was some problem with the fittings come loose in the wall after it was finished. Our inspector said it was okay. Really to tell the truth I hate that smurf pipe I rather use armor cable it's already got wire and everything.
Yep one shot at that point with the metal. Thanks for the comment and watching ☺
2:17 that's what she said
😂 😂 😂
Can you use a metal lock ring instead of the plastic lock on the blue connector and still be in code?
Mine had a metal lock ring. So yes
@@MountaineerOutdoors thanks much for the quick reply!
Not a problem
If you want to be pedantic and be on the conservative side, you may need a bonding/grounding locknut when securing to a nonmetal box or enclosure, as the metal locknut would be a conductive surface. This shouldn’t be an issue with metal boxes as the locknut would securely make contact with the metal wall.
13 минут засовывать гофру в щиток - это еще смочь нужно!