DIY Networking for a Future Proof and HIGH SPEED Home! (Smurf Tubing and String Pull Trick!)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 ноя 2023
- Go to drinkag1.com/studpack to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring today’s video!
Хобби
You should use the wall plates with jacks rather than just have the cable going through the plate. Using a plate with a jack allows you to change the length of the cable going to the equipment easily. Just having the cable go through the wall plate limits your options later on. Plus, if you ever damage the cable going to the equipment it is easier to replace a patch cable than to have to patch in a new length of cable.
100% I literally came down here to comment the exact same thing.
Can't think of one good reason not to have keystone jacks and wall covers..
yes, this a 1000 times this.
I agree x10...have done a significant amount of networking myself, and have never looked back after learning keystone punchdowns.
100% agree! As a data technician.. they are setting up for problems down the road. Should install key connectors.
We're actively reading all comments and learning from all of you, thanks for you're input!
I install fiber internet for a living. As everyone else has said use punch downs anywhere you will want a connection. I like the idea of hiding the "modem" in the attic as long as it's climate controlled however it will be difficult for any troubleshooting by you or the technician to get to after walls are finished. It will also make it easier if the wires and smurf tube are run into a "smartpanel" or structured network box that mounts in-between stud bays inside of there is where you would terminate the wires with male ends so that they can plug into equipment such as switches or modems or ndvr.
Keep up the good work!
Hey Jordan/Paul, not going to beat the dead horse that everyone has already commented on, but I am curious as to why you wanted to run the male connector directly from the wall? No judgment, just curious.
Also curious (and I understand the logic of why you'd think to place everything in the attic), but why not run all the low voltage to that spot underneath the stairs with the rest of the electrical? Granted, you'll want to have some space between high/low, but that would probably be much more beneficial. You could easily mount a 8u rack, where you could terminate fiber, copper, and mount your switch or other equipment. As many other as have suggested, I'd consider taking a look at Ubiquiti gear, it's a prosumer level of equipment that is easy enough for most people to setup, but is going to provide (more than) adequate performance for your needs.
If it seems a bit overwhelming, don't hesitate to reach out and I can help guide you.
Terminate the ends with a keystone jack and plug a patch cable into the wall and to the device. That makes so much more sense and is more professional than terminating the wire with an RJ-45 plug hanging out of the wall. The prong on the RJ-45 plug will break over time and then you have to recrimp the cable.
If you want to get 10g over plain Cat6, the fewer connection points the better, I'd leave off the patch panel.
I second this. Keystone jacks are also easier to terminate, imo.
Patch panels are the way to go
@@jtkilroy Max run on 10Gb Cat6 Ethernet is 330 feet, he should be fine in a residential building.
they're never gonna saturate 10g anyway
Guys, it looks like you're going to have CAT6 "patch cables" coming out of your walls. If so, bad idea. Run your *solid conductor* CAT 6 inside the walls to an RJ45 jack, then run a *proper* CAT 6 patch cable (stranded conductors) to the device. Yes, do this on both ends. Not sure what the perceived benefit is of "connecting directly" as you say around 26:05, but I'm assuming that the thinking is that "fewer connections" is going to increase the signal integrity. You're not going to have faster gigabit (or even 10 Gb) connectivity by skipping a couple RJ-45 male-to-female connections, so there's zero benefit. But having those cables come out of your walls is only going to cause trouble in the long run.
This.
100% this
Yes, plus it looks tacky. Why even have smurf j-box connecter that will be hidden, yet have a solid copper pig tail going to the TV.
Interesting. Never knew this. I've done it both ways and generally works just fine but good to know
This is 100% correct. I've had to be the one to make that correction after the fact, and even though it was in raceway, i still wished ill on the mother of the previous installer.
You will want to avoid running CAT cables parallel to any power to avoid electrical noise. In a perfect world, you'd only cross a power run at 90 degrees.
It's also a little unusual putting an RJ45 connector on the end of a permanent run like that. Normally, you'd terminate into a Keystone RJ45 socket and use a patch cord from the wall to your device.
I think like he said in the video he was just demonstrating how it's done.. But yes, agreed. They should definitely use keystones on the wallplates! Much much cleaner look
At least use shielded 6a cable if you do run the wire near electrical.
@@fuckthisksksjjksdfjd Even if you have Cat 6a, do NOT run data lines parallel to high voltage AC. Even if it doesn't interfere with the date signal, it can induce a current in the date cable and run your network equipment.
If you rum shielded, ground the shield on one side to a communication ground separate from your electrical ground. (And any lightning protection ground). In a professional network you want a grounded equipment rack for your router, switches, and modems - the rack ground doesn't need to be expensive, just separate.
@@fuckthisksksjjksdfjd Shielding, unless you use steel sheathing/conduit, only blocks electrostatic noise, not induced electromagnetic noise.
Induced interference from adjacent power lines is almost a moot point, especially with twisted balanced lines, and digital signals at that. The concern is more for safety and isolation of heat and/or mechanical issues.
I know lots of others have jumped in but you should 100% be using wall plates/jacks. The wall plate makes it so the cable in the wall is set and doesn't get moved or manipulated ever. It is just the "right" way to do it. Also as a FYI the middle piece in CAT6 or crossbar is to keep the cable pairs in the cable separate.
Also since they are using solid wire it will not handle being moved around as much as stranded which is used in patch cables, sure it works but moving stuff around and bending and flexing them can damage them over time, and they dont like being kinked as much. also if the cable end gets damaged you got to re-crimp a new end instead of just swapping out a few feet of patch, so more of a time waste although doesnt matter as much as a home user but can lead to frustration down the line, especially given the the modem/switch are going to be in an attic space and not out in the open.
Hey Paul. 20+ year Network admin here... Not too shabby on the Cat6 cable termination. I would recommend one change to the stripping process. That string that is in the cable is used to strip the blue jacket back. So you'd use the wire stripping tool, remove a section of blue jacket, but the stripping tool CAN nick the 8 inside wire jackets slightly. Sometimes it weakens them to the point that they can break off even. So the idea is that you pull the string back at 180 degree angle to the cable, using it like a rip-cord, to cut down the side of the blue jacket, exposing even more of the internal wires... then trim off the blue jacket with snips, along with the string and the center plastic spacer/insulator. Now you have guaranteed strong wires you are terminating.
And yes, listen to the others commenting about making the wires into jacks instead of home-runs to the devices... cables break, get pinched in TV mounts, etc... and replacing a patch cable is a few bucks vs hoping you have enough slack to re-terminate a cable. Plus you get the flexibility of choosing your patch cable length. You guys aren't ones to cut corners... don't disrespect a proper network install. ;-) Great work, men.
Absolutely agree ... another network admin here and this is how the installers stripped cable AFTER they pulled it to where it was going to live. Strip about 1" from the end to expose the 8 wires, then use that string to pull down against the jacket from the inside to open it up about 2" & cut off the wires just below where the stripper cut the outer sheath and none of your cables will be damaged. Crimp just like you did when you're ready - nice job, Paul! Since you're using pass-through crimps, make sure that anything else you use is compatible with that pass-through system.
Many, many years ago I asked a pro installer why why they were wasting so much cable. They showed me the right way which is how @BrentTech commented above with the exact same reason - if any wire gets nicked, you won't see it, but the cable will fail the test if nicked. Also, please use patch panels, wall plates, and modular connectors . I've been watching this channel for a while now and I know Jordan has probably changed things after this video posed! Using a patch panel, wall plates, or surface mount boxes (a.k.a. "biscuits,") and patch cords will help make those moves, adds, and changes easier. Make sure to use patch cords a little longer than you need. Got a 10' run? Use a 14' or 15' cable. This is after you've drawn-up a cable plan. It should look like your electrical plan, but for all the low voltage. Keep low voltage about 1' away from the high voltage as much as possible and cross at a 90 degree angle when you have to. Also, use service loops wherever possible. Many of the installers I work leave a minimum 6" service loop at the wall jack tucked neatly into the box. That comes in handy if that wall jack gets damaged for any reason, just pull out a few more inches of cable and reterminate. For a biscuit, same idea, but leave 6" to 1" of loop before terminating.
So, you already have fiber service to the house, and you're getting fiber into the garage. Once your new service is up, will you run a temporary cable over to the house so you can avoid paying double?
You showed the fiber distribution box outside the house which probably connects to an Optical Network Terminal (ONT) inside. The ONT has status lights for Power, PON (Passive Optical Network), Data, and other LEDs depending on the model of the box, your service, etc. From there, you may also have a residential gateway. After that, you will need your own equipment, unless you can rent it from your Internet Service Provider (ISP). But, knowing you guys, I don't see you renting anything you don't need to. What do you use now? Ubiquiti gear is pretty nice, but expensive. Please don't use a mesh, you probably won't like the performance. Use wired backhaul for any wireless access point (AP). Check out TP-Link. One of the houses Risinger worked on had a really nice low voltage wall - maybe give him a call.
Thumbs up on the cable pull, smurf tube, long sweeps, and outside PVC panel and conduit!
There is already a stripping tool on the Klein crimpers. Also stripping the jacket off pulling the ripcord and trimming/snipping the jacket is a waste of time. When you use the strip tool you don't cut through the jacket. You score it and the jacket breaks right on the line. You know if never made it through the jacket you cant have touched the wires. Faster and cleaner. Also I have never found a cat5/6 plug that wouldn't' work with my Klein termination tool.
Sys admin here and 100% agree
I remember this from cert training even back in the 90s. Correct and great advice.
@@jamesa8851 "Doing things right is a waste of time"
USUALLY, signal/data wiring should cross power lines at right angles to minimize power noise interference into the signal/data lines.
This was true back in the day with Cat3 cabling, however CAT6 twisted pair standard does an excellent job at rejecting interference from everything including power. As someone that has worked inside data centers for over 20 years I can't tell you the amounts of CAT6 ran next to bulk power runs under the floor I've seen.
No need to worry until the modem converts optical to electrical. Then yes could be a concern.
This is still best practice. Granted newer cables have more shielding. Many youtube channels have proven its still not quite adequate. This is why you still see "faraday cages" inside certain electronic devices. Ever read that electronics warning inside every device in America "this device complies with XXX and must accept signals from XXX "
@@nuzzlefutzsame here. 15+ years of running network cable right next to electrical without any conduit either. Worked just fine. If you want to take the extra step you can always get shielded twisted pair.
Thank you, I retired before knowing about Cat 6. I appreciate the feedback
Conduit and a vacuum looks way easier than the time I ran Cat-5e through air ducts in an HVAC system using remote control cars on a rental property.
Now that sounds like a great time regardless of the outcome!
😂😂 would’ve made for a great video though!
That's actually pretty genius too.
My house has a short section of horizontal duct, with vertical duct before/after it. I just used a battery powered toy car, no RC, tied a thread to it, and dropped it down in from above. It went across to the other vertical, fell down into it, and out the bottom.
I've ran hundreds of miles of Cat4/5/6 ethernet cable and would suggest moving the Smurf tubing at least 18" from the 120v power lines.
Would shielded cat6 with shielded connectors be ok next to the wires?
What he said, it absolutely most likely will cause an interference 👍🏻
@@TJChallstrom916-512 True. U/UTP is the worst. SF/FTP is the best. I think studpack got the cheapest one, U/UTP.
It's internal.
@@TJChallstrom916-512 Elite Cat6 Shielded Riser (CMR), Ethernet Cable 1000ft, 23AWG 100% Solid Pure Bare Copper, Foiled w/Unshielded Twisted Pair (F/UTP), 550MHz, UL Certified, UL-LP Cert, Bulk Networking Cable Reel - Blue
Elite Cat6 Shielded Riser (CMR), Ethernet Cable 1000ft, 23AWG 100% Solid Pure Bare Copper, Foiled w/Unshielded Twisted Pair (F/UTP), 550MHz, UL Certified, UL-LP Cert, Bulk Networking Cable Reel - Blue
We need a montage of Paul's "Like" button outros :-). I wonder how much thought he puts into those. Another great video to add to the series!
Networking is one of the major reasons I'd love to build a new house. More ports than you think you'll need, running to a quality switch, and get as many things OFF of wifi as possible.
yes, exactly!
Using cellular and wifi only. All speeds are plenty for a single family home. Most importantly, watching stud pack with wifi on a busy Friday night.
@@baxtronx5972there are security benefits to it too; cameras on wifi are easily hackable - trust
Yup. I didn't it with my home: About 124 Drops (Still have a few more to do in the basement) All Cat 6A. I have a lot of Poe Devices (IP cameras & IP Phones) so Wifi would work for those devices anyway. using a few refurb'd Cisco switches with trunking & VLANs.
@@guytech7310Geez I thought my 60 was a lot
Please don’t terminate with modular connectors. Terminate to keystone jacks and connect with molded patch cables.
Why?
@@StudPack1, you’re using solid conductor. Punching down to inserts will have a more reliable connection.
2. Molded patch cables will have better longevity/durablility. Less likely to cause issues in the future when you plug/replug cables.
3. Keystones in a wallplate, surface mount box or patch panel give a much cleaner installation and gives more cable management options.
@@StudPackit’s the right way to do it. Solid core cat 6 in the walls from a central home run location. You will use a patch panel in that location and will have the modem and router located there. You will terminate throughout the house with keystone finishes that snap into the wall plates. You then run preterminated rj45 Ethernet cables (which are stranded cable and more flexible) to the actual devices , computers tvs etc. you also want to ensure you are using solid core copper cable not CCA which is copper coated aluminum. It sucks, reduces bandwidth and does not work for POE applications. Also run Ethernet cable into the center of the ceiling so you can ceiling mount an access point. Lots of little details around this make a big difference.
@@StudPack see all the comments that all say the same thing about keystone jacks.
@@braydonscully4646 @Studpack heed the above comment. wise words he says.
Hey stud pack! I’ve been in telecom for over 15 years and just wanted to drop some tips for you.
- As many have mentioned already, best to put a wall plate with a jack instead of the modular end.
- The difference between 568a and b are American and (everyone else) comm standards. The orange and green pairs are the only ones that swap. If you swap those pairs on each end you can create what is called a “crossover cable” and that’s how devices communicate over cat cable without networking equipment.
- Your landline as you mentioned runs on the blue pair which never changes position between A and B
- When you get your pairs untwisted, instead of cutting flat, cut at a 45* angle, it’s easier to feed the wires into the mod end.
Love the videos boys! Keep it up. If you ever need Canadian over for help gimme a shout! I need an excuse to come eat some good ol Texas bbq!
That 45 degree angle trick is genius! Never thought of that and I'm just getting started (bought a klein ratcheting crimper and passthrough ends), haven't even actually terminated any cables before. Do you have any other tips or video recommendations for getting started with my first terminations (like how much I should strip from the jacket, I don't strip any of the ends I believe)?
A crossover cable doesn't swap the orange and green pairs "on each end". It swaps, ON 1 END ONLY, pair 2 (orange) with pair 3 (green), AND pair 1 (blue) with pair 4 (brown). If you only swap the orange and green pairs, the crossover cable might not work with on a gigabit network (ie 1000Base-T). And crossover cables are kind of obsolete because most modern network gear now has some sort of MDI/MDI-X Automatic Crossover support which can figure out which pairs are swapped and which pairs aren't (which is probably why your incorrectly wired crossover cables might work anyways on a gigabit network).
Where I grew up the houses were built in the late 1950s. The original telephone wiring was unjacketed bundles of ten or so pairs pulled in continuous loop throughout the house framing. Later Bell started using station wire with Red+Green and Black+Yellow for the two pairs (Christmas tree / Bumble bee).
the 45-degree cut works for some connectors and not for others. Really depends.
Heh, I came just to tell them to cut at an angle. I was taught to use scissors and not the other stuff, but if it works it works.
If you're wanting to keep the male ends I'd recommend having strain relief caps on the cables. In all honesty, having a wall plate that either terminates in a female punchdown or a male-male passthrough would be the best practice. That way you can purchase premade cables that are much easier to replace and are designed to be more responsive to movement than that cable you purchased which is meant for install in walls.
Lastly, unlike electrical, network cabling can't just be unscrewed at the termination so if you need to redo the end it has to be cut off. Because of that it's important to have extra slack in your line so that you can reterminate easily without having to pull an entire new line.
Other than those notes great work!
Usually there are instances where you can have it coming through the wall into a flexible wall grommet but that's usually in a network closet where you have more than 6 lines going into the wall from a switch or other device. But yes best practice is to leave some extra length in the line so that if you do need to re-terminate the line at any point from random instances of damage, mother nature, or moving the location of the LV box then you will have extra slack to do so. I would also recommend having tubing through the wall if you don't want to have extra few feet of wire because then it will make running a new line easier later on. also the Kline crimpers have a wire cutting / stripping feature on them as well. cutting is tight up towards the hinge and the little notch down below the flat surface is for stripping. The cutter/crimper that Jordan bought is for Key stones but you need a specific brand with that specific brand of keystone crimper, alternatively you could get a punch down tool from Home depot or Lowes and use any keystone you like without any issues. Keystones are usually used in instances where you either need to extend a line (using a biscuit box) or at a patch panel. they slot right into the back of the patch panel and are used mostly in bigger scale network rooms. Granted I have a few patch panels at my house because of how many things we have plugged in.
Came to comment exactly this as well! Always leave a service loop just in case for the future.
Hey guys, take a few minutes and go watch RUclipsr Essential Craftsman’s spec house videos on this. Episode 100 and 132. It shows the “rough” stage and the finished part. Yes - you want keystones at the wall ports, and you’ll want a proper network rack, Jordan, to terminate in a modular keystone patch panel. I use a Ubiquiti network stack (APs and cameras) for my house. Love it. Don’t forget cat6 in the ceilings for the APs! Please don’t use a full mesh system. You have open walls - take advantage of running cat6 until your arms hurt. Keep it up, guys!!
BINGO, this, do overkill while you can, your future self will thank you, like I said in another post I ran PoE security cameras and automated blinds Cat6 drops
I came here to make this comment
$5 says when the fiber company comes, they now have a "new" style box that isn't anything like the old version.
Boxes will be backward compatible but use a new faceplate. When the CAT is pulled through with the string installed, make sure they pull a new string behind it to pull anything back through the conduit and/or another needed cable, fiber or otherwise.
I was just going to comment that a future network box may be different.
AT&T technician here 👋
Good work dude. All new builds from good builders have Smurf tube running straight to the panel (structured media enclosure). This makes it soooo much easier for us. The better it's strapped down and secured the easier the pull is. House is really coming together.
Agreed! I do GFiber installs and I hate when new construction puts the main lines on the side of a garage or a similarly bad spot and doesn't run a conduit for the data lines.
I wired up my basement and used Cat 6A. After connecting all of the RJ45 ends I tested each cable and made sure that I was connected at 10g. I had to replace the ends of two cables out of 10 runs.
i was just about to close the laptop for the night, i refreshed youtube one more time and there you were. keep up the great videos guys we love to watch them all.
also i thought you guys were going to run power underground from across the street?
same!!!!!!!!!
IIRC Jordan wanted to look into it and see how much it cost...I'm assuming it was pretty expensive and not worth it.
Man.. Paul was BORN TO BE a RUclips personality. He is seriously so great at this. Thanks for today's lesson, Paul!!
For the temporary run for the workstation I guess a direct cable is fine but at least for the TV run please look into using keystones. Really makes the whole thing look a lot cleaner once finished. I'm also curious if you guys have thought about what you're going to use for wireless, be it just an all in one box or if there will be plans to use a multi access point setup so the garage/apartment and the main house later have a seamless transition without losing signal. I also find having an outdoor access point to be nice for streaming outside but I also have bad cell service outside.
Ubiquiti, right?
@@DavidNitzscheBellThat's what I would recommend.
@@DrD6452 I second that!
A decent router gives you 200-300ft. Should be good with a single point of connection. How often do you see the neighbor's wifi showing up at your house?
I usually never comment but I do this for a living in California. We always try to stay away from high volt due to interference. There have been times where we had no choice. Usually we have no issues with interference if it's parallel in a short span. Also trimming cat6 into a keystone and using a patch cord is the better way to go just in case you move and need a longer cable. Also don't forget to think about the interconnect from the garage to the main house. Usually what we do in bigger high end residences are to have a main distribution and have an intermediate distribution so you don't have to home run everything back to the garage and saves on cost of wiring. Loving the series keep up the good work!
I was thinking the same thing about the future house. I would pull a preterminated fiber from the garage over to the main house where they can have another central connection point. Get switches with spf ports, or use a media converter.
@@bjnorton8029 sm lc sfp ftw lol
As a I.T. SysAdmin I also agree. I'd put a backbone fiber into the house back to wherever you're terminating the fiber with the ISPs modem/gateway (ingress closet ). More equipment... More chances for failure... BUT home-running everything is a pain... And it's easier for someone to add network 20 years from now in just the home (no garage wiring necessary ). Two switches instead of one, not a biggie. Also; put a second pull cord in the fiber conduit. It's so easy to do now, and someone 20-30 years from now will LOVE it!!!!!
@@pauldavies9082 Don't you think that single mode fiber would be overkill? With single mode they could do a run down and around the block. Not to mention the cost of simgle mode optics compared to muti-mode. With OM4 cable you could run 150m (at 100G)
@@iplaybass1641 I'd agree single mode is overkill. You're not traveling that much of a distance to warrant that. Multi-mode fiber would be more than sufficient for that run that'll be if anything 300ft.
I would use CAT6A, the shielding makes a difference in longer lengths - at least the ones you might be pulling to the future house .. or overdo it and pull another fiber to the house as well to have a good backbone 🙂
Cat6 + fiber jumper to the house is the way to go. Cat6a is almost double the price of 6. Fiber jumper is cheap. Obviously there are times to use A.
Both cat6 and cat6a come in shielded or non-shielded. Most installs are UTP (unshielded twisted pair). There are many different versions of STP (shielded twisted pair).
I would have absolutely went with Cat6A UTP instead of just Cat6. It'll work for now, but they may regret it in the near future. I also agree that keystones are needed to terminate those connections.
@@route_switch What would there be to regret? 6 handles 10Gbe at least up to 300ft. Current TVs still only have 10/100 ports. Wifi is getting better every generation. I don't think we'll ever see 10Gbe take off in the average home. It's been a long time and still little adoption. 2.5 hasn't even caught on yet, but gaining some traction and compatible with cat5 that's in a lot of houses. Also, fiber switches/adapters are cheaper and objectively superior if you need 10G.
@@wojtek-33 " handles 10Gbe at least up to 300ft."
No, only about 180 feet. Issue with fiber is DIY terminations. You need special equipment to terminate fiber. 10G will become more widely used with switches become more affordable.
Whenever possible, you want 12in between electrical and low voltage or to cross at perpendicular. What you don’t want is to have long runs run in parallel immediately next to each other as the high voltage can induce interference or current in the low voltage.
1. Make sure to strap that smurf tube down tight. Unlike rigid conduit it can flex and stretch while you pull, making the job a pain.
2. 19:24 Glad to see you using the right box adapters. Make sure you seat the adapter ALL THE WAY DOWN on the tube, which is like 3 or 4 clicks. If you snap it to just the first click you leave a gap between the leading edge of the conduit and the mating edge of the connector. This gap can snag your cable or fish tape.
3. 20:08 If you want to get fussy then there are tables online specifying acceptable proximities for parallel power and Ethernet.
For the most part, however, Cat.6 cable is good at rejecting induced interference from power cables except in extreme cases.
Running it in close proximity for a foot or two (in this case) will (likely) not cause any issues but best practice is to put as much space as possible between parallel runs, and to cross only at ninety-degree angles.
4a. Run drops to the ceilings for your WiFi APs
4b. Run a drop or two to every wall whether you think you'll need it or not. You can lay the cable on top of the spray foam if necessary and terminate only when you need it.
5a. 22:00 this cannot be overstated: You must always match your connectors to your cable and then your crimper to your connectors.
5b. Every connector will be suited to a particular a) conductor gauge, b) cable OD and c) type of conductor (solid or stranded). Reputable dealers will list these in the marketing materials. You cannot, for example use Cat.6a connectors with Cat.6 cable (and vice versa) because the conductor gauge and OD of the two cables are significantly different.
5c. For PoE applications you should probably avoid pass-through connectors because they can sometimes arc at the ends. Use load bar connectors instead.
5d. All that said, 22:06 ABSOLUTELY use keystone jacks mounted in wall plates! Having a wire hanging out of your wall is just plain sloppy!
6a. 23:34 The twisty part in the center is the _spline._ It's there *not* for strength but to maintain the internal spacing and overall twist of the individual pairs.
6b. 23:40 The difference in twist pitch is the product of some complex mathematics designed to reduce interference between the pairs.
7. 23:59 I have a technique for untwisting the pairs with the smooth outer edge of my electrician's scissors, which lets me straighten the cables as I go. Everyone has their way.
I probably would have used shielded cable because I'm crazy like that.
Another reason to terminate your cables to keystone jacks is that solid copper cable (the stuff in your walls) is less flexible than stranded cable (the stuff in patch cords). It is intended to be installed and then left alone. Patch cords are then used to make the final connection to equipment.
Utility pole replacement was a cool bonus clip, never actually seen it done all the way through.
I would definitely recommend going with the female jacks and wall plates for all your cat6. It’s much easier to just replace a patch cable if something gets damaged.
Also I would avoid the pass through jacks if possible. They can have issues especially with POE devices. They can also have issues outdoors with moisture and corrosion.
If you need any guidance please feel free to reach out, I do low voltage and networking for a living.
Where all the cat6 cables are coming together over the stairs, terminate them into a patch panel. And I strongly agree with the others who are advocating for wall plates with keystone jacks.
Wherever you expect to have multiple pieces of equipment, I would run two or even more Ethernet cables to a single wall plate. For example, you may have a printer you want to share across the network, and a computer, and an IP phone, etc. It is much easier to troubleshoot direct wired connections to a main intelligent switch, than to run multiple small switches wherever you have more than one piece of networked equipment. Wire is king! 40 years from now it will work as well as today. Fast and secure.
Yes! There's also a bandwidth limitation for each cable that should be considered. Adding another cable can hypothetically double the bandwidth at that location depending on the scenario.
wow not often you get the see the process of the utility company removing the telephone pole! really cool stuff
Note: Always run the CAT6 cables a little long on both ends. This is called a 'Service Loop' and allows you the extra length to be able to replace the connector if it gets damaged.
Note: The fiber core at the center is part of what allows the cable to run high speed signals by holding the internal wires properly spaced in their correct positions.
I love service loops. Nickel now saves a dollar later
568A was for government network standard installation. 568B is what everyone else uses. If you look at the keystone jacks you’ll see there is a sticker with how to wire those to A or B standard too. Same for the premade patch cables you can buy them in A or B standard.
As others have said already, I recommend using the keystones with a standard faceplate for the TV, Router/firewall, PC, wired network speakers, etc. Do the RJ45 ended runs for your cameras and WAPs.
There is no real difference between 568A & B. only difference is Pair 1 & Pair 2 colors A: Green & Orange, B: Orange & Green (reversed).
@@guytech7310 the difference is T568A can still function as telephone wire, which is why it was required for government installations.
@@TeflonBilly426 You can use 568B for telephone. Only difference between A -B are the color of pairs 1 & 2. Phone uses Pair 3, & Pair 2 (second line). The reason why Pair 2 is split (ie 12,36,45,67) is for analog phone. Pair 3 is 45 for phone.
I would not put any equipment in unconditioned space, even if it designed for higher temperatures (it just won't last as long). Keeping the fiber equipment close to the rest of the network equipment will be very helpful later. Also, we have not seen the other end of the Ethernet connections yet, but you will love having a patch panel bringing all that together in conditioned space that is easy to reach. .
Pro tips. I do this for a living and mostly new construction residential. From 3 bedroom homes to mansions.
Hope you're spray foaming that attic space or the heat will kill the equipment.
UTP cable should be a minimum of 4 inches away from electrical. It's alright for very short runs going parallel and going over but if you're going more then a foot you should be a minimum 4 inches away. If you have to be near electrical then use shielded UTP.
You should use keystones and wall plates. Reason being solid core doesn't last as long as strained core when it comes to movement. The more the cable is moved/flexed the more strain on the conductors and you start getting slower speeds and some point no connection when conductors start breaking. Would be alright for temporary drops. Also it may hinder the blower test since you'll be using scoops or whisker boxes if you use a straight RJ45. There is no advantage gain when using a RJ45 straight to a device rather then a patch cable going from the device to the wall.
Pass-through RJ45s are the devil and is a sin in the low voltage world to use them. ATT loves to use them then blame the cabling. Times I wish I could back charge ATT.
If you want 10Gbit connections then I would of personally used shielded CAT6a. You can get 10Gbit with typical CAT6 but your mileage will vary. Also make sure the cable is 100% copper and not that copper clad trash. If unsure what you have look at the datasheet from the manufacturer.
When it comes to the main house have the SMC/head end in the middle of the house if possible. Like under the stairs, a closet or what have you. You don't want to go over 328ft with a data drop. I try to keep my runs around 300ft so it gives wiggle room for the patch cable length going from the wall to the device.
Also may want to consider buying a run of Plenum rated cable for the connection(s) into the garage. I'm not sure about your local code, but here we have to have continuous fire separation with attached garages and that includes penetrations for wiring and cabling. Plenum rated jackets for cable will prevent flame spread in the case of a fire in the garage.
CMR will also provide the continuous fire protection. I do note they're using just CM, so there's still a point. Plenum is really only necessary where you're running cabling through air flow areas. Common in commercial since drop ceilings are commonly used as air returns.
@@gdave44 True, CMR would be sufficient in this case probably.
Hey guys!
Thanks so much for taking the time yesterday with me, especially with me sneaking up on you guys. It was great to see the build I've been following all these months in person. It's looking so awesome! You guys are the real deal. Even my wife was impressed!
Keep it coming and know at least one dude from MD is excited to see what's next.
Really was the highlight of my trip.
Thanks so much!!!!
-Mo
i like watching this series. Its great to see three guys make it up as they go without fear of doing something wrong and also not trying to make the fanciest most expensive home ever.
I love watching Paul do the commercials in-video instead of RUclips swapping me to standard ads. I don't even fast forward or skip because Paul keeps it entertaining.
Well it wasn't until I read your comment that I realized I feel and do the same thing when Paul does the commercials live/within the video.
ENT isn't as kinky if you unroll the coil rather than pull it straight out. I can't get over the amount of actual information that you guys provide. I love Stud Pac! You guys are every bit as entertaining, informative and very useful as This Old House TV shows. Never thought I'd say that about another show but you guys are terrific. I can't get over the amount of useful, entertaining information you guy provide in EVERY video! Keep it up, I love it!
After 25 years doing LV I still hate passthrough connectors. If the cable does not cut perfectly you can have a cable that will not click in correctly then you spend hours troubleshooting a device that has no internet. I would also prefer to have your Fiber modem accessible for troubleshooting, but that's me. I also agree with wall plates and jacks. On a positive note the basics of crimping an RJ45 was excellent. Thank you for another great video!!
I just spent half an hour and a trip into the attic to track down just this. Odd part is that it worked, for over a year. It stopped while I was changing other cabling, so I spent time scratching my head to figure out what I changed to cause the outage. Finally, I went back to basics, ran my cable testers and just happened to notice a 1/32 of wire was sitting proud keeping it from fully engaging. I'll still stand by pass through connectors, I'll just be a bit more careful of my QC when terminating them.
I know that pain haha. My crimpers also don't have the blade to cut the wires on a passthrough so I just have to line them up and hold them in place if I only have a passthrough.
Just my 30 years of networking experience speaking here:
1. Pass through connectors can result in corrosion starting in the end of the cable and working its way back. Not really an issue inside unless moisture gets at it.
2. When striping the cable you can nick the inner wire ever so slightly that can degrade the signal or possibly even break off so you should rip the jacket back a couple inches to make sure you're not terminating a damaged cable.
3. I'd highly recommend keystone punch down jacks for terminating cables then use pre-made correct length booted patch cables with strain reliefs to connect devices from the wall plate jack.
4. Use wired connections whenever possible, more secure and reliable than wireless.
I was looking for this, exactly what I wanted to say! Addendum to #2 The thin piece of string inside the cable jacket (that got cut off) can be used to cut it back without danger of nicking the inner strands.
I learned the vacuum trick on the first major lighting job I was apart of. We were replacing a bunch of old concrete poles along a walkway, a good thousand feet in total. When we were getting ready to pull the string in, my coworker said we needed a plastic bag to pull the wire. The look on the faces of the people in the cafeteria when we asked for a bag, was priceless.
If you use cat6a you get 10gb but I always make sure it says "pure" or "bare" copper so you don't get cca. If you get shielded you can run it next to electrical. Keystone jacks are also highly recommended but luckily this is temporary.
While it may (or may not) be out of view out of mind at this point in time, I'd highly recommend running all of the data drops to a centralized location (usually the same location of the electrical panel) and terminate all drops into a patch panel. From there you'd patch the drops to en ethernet switch or directly to your wifi router. Check out Ubiquiti, Aruba, etc full suite of network gear and build a proper network for this new house - it'd be worth it; done it myself.
If you only had fiber running through that tubing, it's unaffected by power lines. If you have copper/CAT networking cable running through it, you'll want to avoid power lines and if you have to run near power only cross power at 90 degrees (perpendicular).
Love watching your videos! Keep up the great and professional work!
Smurf tubing sounds like a cool winter sport
Line men and truckers are the backbone of this country,
Be wary of the bend radius requirements for fibre-- it's unlike copper cables since the optics of the glass fibres require smoother transitions. May want to double check with your ISP before closing all of that in.
fiber can be bent a lot more than you would think without breaking. I'd keep the bend no smaller than a softball and it'll be fine
@@Seris_ It *can* be, but if I were them I'd still confirm with the ISP or whoever is doing the pull. I design large scale IT systems and our spec aligns with TIA guidelines which requires between 10 to 20 times cable radius for your conduit sweep. From the ISP's perspective, I would probably not warranty the installation if installed in what is provided here.
@@Seris_it’s not about breaking, it’s about the light loss over the distance of the bend. When fiber is bent, it opens up the edges of the glass and light escapes. The tighter the bend the more light escapes, the longer the bend, the more the light escapes.
What manufacturer of network gear are you planning to use? I would recommend equipment that is manageable; great for trouble shooting and managed equipment tends to be a higher grade. Also, make sure you get equipment that supports PoE. There is a ton of equipment that uses PoE (e.g., wireless access points and security cameras); it is worth the extra money getting a switch that provides power.
Consider adding a battery backup (UPS) and surge protector where you place the network equipment.
A lot of people will use Unifi/Ubiquity equipment for projects like yours, good quality and readily available. Cisco and HP manufacture decent network gear too.
Paul, you guys are great to watch. I want to give you something to think about.
When installing data cabling in a house, you want to think about what to install to last 10+ years for the changes in technology that will occur. I installed CAT6 UTP in my newly built house in the year 2000, and it was an excellent 1Gbps standard that has lasted for 23 years. But today, we are now seeing more 2.5GbE connections and higher options.
To future-proof your installation, you should install STP (Shielded Twisted Pair) and a 2000MHz CAT8 cable in your walls and use keystone terminations in the wallbox. Your current equipment may not utilize the speed, but you won't be pulling it out and replacing all of the cable and termination keystones in 5-10+ years. You certainly want to shield the cable now that so many devices, Wi-Fi radios, and lighting are creating additional noise. While you're running it all in smurf, which will make repulling it all later possible, it's certainly cheaper to just do it once and be happy you wont have to change it in another decade. My 2 cents... worth the price charged.
Pre Camera planning with Cat6 (Power Over Ethernet - POE) 1) ALWAYS loop an outside run of temporary loose CAT6 to your camera location to test the field of view, mount the camera on an outside ladder, 2) Use good over hang protection to keep rain & snow from hitting the camera lens, 3) Use white painted flat aluminum 1-2" wide metal brace support that slides in with soffit, use stainless steel screws to hold soffit pieces in place, 4) Keep Camera away from spot lights that attracted bugs and spider webs that will eventually obscure your view. 5) Motion detect during testing, your camera placement height may make peoples videoed faces undistinguishable. PROPER CAMERA HEIGHT IS CRITICAL.
Be aware there is a limit to the bend radius of the fiber. Where the Smurf tube enters the building and makes a 90 up the inside wall may be too tight of a bend. You can measure the bend radius in the existing fiber box on the old house to see if your 90 is too sharp.
It will be good, the fiber they bring in has a really small diameter so the bend radius will be fine.
Love to see networking content!
I've been in IT for 27 years now. This is a great video on what not to do when running cable, terminating ends, and placement of equipment that gets hot. I know you all are DIYers but you can consult professionals prior to making these mistakes. Please folks, remember, just because you use computers, tablets, smart phones, that doesn't automatically mean you know how it works. Even running your fiber line that far only to hide the modem up high, out of sight, where temps will be the hottest is a huge no no. Sorry guys. You're in my area of expertise and you should have asked for help first. The good side is, I now have a video to reference for training new techs.
23:34 The twisty part in the center is the spline. It's there not for strength but to maintain the internal spacing and overall twist of the individual pairs.
Hi Guys, great video! As others said, wall plates are better - you don't limit yourselfes to a specific radius in which you can put your devices and you don't risk damaging the cable right in front of the outlet - you would have a hard time getting a plug on there. Also, in Germany we usually use duplex Cat7 S/FTP cables, are these a thing in the USA? They cost a bit more, but you get way better shielding from outside interferences. Having two outlets instead of one is also nice and kind of a future-proofing. Personally, i would like to have at least two ethernet ports per room in a new building for the same reasons.
Here's a tip: When pulling cable, go ahead and pull another string along with it, so when you are done, you have a pull string ready for the future, already in the conduit.
YES!!!!!!🎉
100% agree. Pull string is almost free. Leave a small roll in the boxes in both ends, pinched or tied off, of course. The only exception I would make for that is a longer/difficult fiber pull (mine was 220ft underground with a total of 360deg bends) where you will absolutely not be pulling anything else in the conduit without pulling the whole thing out (to avoid damage).
Keep as much of the twists and limit the amount of cable pairs are exposed. The jacket, plastic separator, and twist helps reduce crosstalk and interference. The twists are what help keep the frequency close to the 250Mhz spec in order to keep that 10GbE bandwidth steady. Great to see someone merge this kind of content. Let us IT guys know if you want to get an APC shelter rack installed, home lab with some home assistant ,or some 400GbE over over MPO fiber.😀.
I hope you don't forget to add ceiling and wall speakers while everything is still open.
Don't recommend directly terminating the CAT 6cable into the RJ45 connector. I would use a small patch panel with patch cored. IMO it will last longer. Vibration can loosen the crimps. The little plastic in the middle of the CAT 6 is a separator to keep the conductors separated to maintain the necessary cross talk, etc so it can meet CAT 6 specifications.
One last thing. Always pull a spare wire/fiber from the demark to your closet. That way if the apartment become a rental they can have their own service.
Always enjoy watching!! Keep up the good work.
Yes,I like the punch-down connectors for terminating into a patch panel. Then you can add/remove as needed with patch cables. I did that in my basement remodel. An electrician ran the cables, but I had to terminate the ends.
You can use that Klien crimper to strip the cable, but only like a half inch. Then use the little string inside the wire to pull it down the rest of that 1.5" or so. You can use nippers or scissors to cut that jacket off. That way you don't accidentally nick those wires while your stripping. Additionally, once you've pulled through the RJ45 connector, you can twist that excess and then just crimp/cut at the same time. Makes it much faster and less to sweep up.
Also, I agree with what others have said. You should use those wall plates rather than that direct connection thing.
Another wall plate and jack recommendation. All benefit. No drawback. While there are plenty of drawbacks to not using wallplates (damaging the in-wall cable, etc.). If you're worried about degrading the signal with additional terminations. . . don't be! It's a non-issue in my exerience. I've personally run Cat6 throughout my house. Even a run that goes from wall plate to ceiling wall plate, patched to another wall plate, through a wall to another wall plate in the closet, and the finally to a 10gig switch. . . no issue. Get full 10gig speed even at well over 50 feet in distance.
Anyone else notice the “Aaaalllriiight” that subtly in the background every time they do something lol 😂 I love it, need shirts with the stud-pack alright lol
Love watching the progress on the build guys, and you're finally in my trade! I like the good work with the conduit tubing, very clean. Some things you may want to remember to prewire for now: wireless access points (at least 1 per floor should cover the garage, maybe prewire for an outdoor access point for the back & front yard), thermostats *some only do wi-fi*, garage door opener/control pad, and you already mentioned cameras but I'd also run 1 Cat6 to the doorbell for a smart doorstation. I'm not sure what sort of equipment you or probably Jordan has looked into to run this home network but my company trusts Ubquiti's Unifi lineup for all our clientele's networking needs and they also run a great suite of cameras and security products. And it's honestly not nearly as costly as similar enterprise level solutions. A Dream Machine plus a 48-port Switch with PoE would run the garage plus more,. Then add on 2 of their indoor and maybe 1 or 2 outdoor access points and the house would be bathed in high speed wi-fi. All their access points as well as their cameras are PoE or Power-over-Ethernet capable, so no extra wires needed. Just 1 Cat6 to a location and you're covered. Plus they make very easy to add on Flex Mini switches that can break out 1 Ethernet connection into 4 or more with again no extra wires required, so now your single Cat6 wire under an A/V cabinet or desk can become 4 or 8 and run multiple devices like the Smart TV, and AVR or soundbar, a game console and more.
It's great seeing you guys work through the process of this build and handle all the curveballs a custom home throws at you, it's hard work but the end product is worth it! I love working in some absolutely gorgeous homes, if y'all need any help or questions answered don't hesitate to ask!
I agree👍
They want to, they could reference linus's house for their internet?
Spot on man!
Why would you NOT use a keystone. It's so much nicer looking, more versatile, and easier.
Network engineer here. As most of the comments have pointed out doing keystone with boxes is the best way. Also a patch panel on a little data closet for your modern, router and panel would be great. Depending on how in depth you want to go with wireless and wired connections managed switch to isolate cameras and iot would be good. Never run Ethernet parallel with power. 90 degrees intersection of you have to
You can run parallel for 6 feet but yes they should avoid it if they can. Also since you mention cameras...in the ip cameras the ends only will be fine as the end will have no movement inside the camera mount. Anything else 110 blocks or keystone jacks is an absolute must.
IT guy here - the Cat6 should be terminated in female keystone jacks in the walls. Then you can use replaceable, variable-length cables connecting from the wall plates to the client devices. On the other end, the in-wall cat6 should be terminated in a labeled patch panel (lots of different options for both rack and wall-mount). Then shorter patch cables connect the patch panel to the network router/switch.
Paul ALWAYS does such a great job explaining. Always so thorough. I've said it a 100 times but this build is all I've seen of this channel but I honestly feel like I'm watching a builder show on television. Paul is a great presenter. Jordan does a great job on the editing (also filming) so it just works out so smooth and professional. I look forward to every episode. 👍
Thanks fellas. Hammer on. 👍💪🔨
For your devices, in general, wired works better. My DVR and Roku box use a wired connection and are very reliable. My obligatory 2 cents, I would have used Cat 6E 600MHz cable. You probably already bought it, but if you can get it on a spool versus a pull box, pay the extra money. It is so worth it.
1:20 Paul re-living his college days. Chug chug chug chug!!!
This is why I love this community, just a bunch of studs helping each other out!
You should wire a patch panel in the attic and then use keystones with wall jacks in the low voltage boxes. Looks cleaner and more professional. You should then use a premade cat6 cable with strain relief to the device. The inwall stuff is not designed to be responsive to movement compared to premade patch cables.
You should also have some slack in your line. If there is an issue with the termination you have to cut off the end and start over.
I'd put a small rack in the attic with the patch panel so you can also mount your switch and other devices to it and have a nice clean install.
The other nice thing with using keystones is you can add stuff that is not cat6 such as coax, fiber, ir receivers, banana jacks for speakers, etc.
Don't run the smurf tubing on top of the electrical. It should be at least 12-18 inches away from it.
I'd say the patch panel should be in the electrical room since you have one. Although if the "attic" space is air-conditioned maybe it would be better
Heat kills network equipment. Clean is always nice but not worth the replacement cost of new equipment due to premature death. Id stay out of the attic unless it has ac and is easily accessible.
@@dude2356 I think the "attic" might actually refer to the loft-type space above the staircase that is still within the conditioned space, so it may be the best place for the equipment.
I hope you're going to be using cameras with POE. Your kid is smart to decide to have hard wired systems. The more the better. With more and more "smart" tech going into simple items, he's better off saving as much Wi-Fi as he can. I have my Wi-Fi in three frequencies. first for the home automation gear, the second is for the laptop/tablets and the third is for cells and other accessories. All my tech is independent of the cloud or any subscription services now and in the future. I hope he sets up a Home Lab/VLAN/firewall with a server or two for his security systems (1 for each building), a network for the office and another possibly for the home theater AV storage.
that segway into the Ag1 sponsor, had me rolling
What a great video. It’s nice to see public utilities serving the needs of the community and not just want they want to do while they are there. I know it took several phone calls, a downed line and a inspection to fix an issue that cost my mother in law her breaker box, lights and chain link fence before something was done. All they had to do was come out and see the anchor on the pole was loose and needed to be addressed asap. However, they blew her off and the next gust of wind the line came down and made parts of a chain link fence disappear or become one, welded together. Even blew a light off her kitchen wall.
Your team seem to be very customer focused!
Do not put data next to high voltage if possible. I'd hate to see you install 10GBe network equipment and get a fraction of the speed. That stiff part in the middle of the cable is shielding to prevent crosstalk between the pairs (which is also why the pairs are twisted at different rates). You will most certainly regret running cables with RJ45 connectors vs using keystone jacks and patching from there to your device. Also, be sure to leave service loops in case there's a need to re-terminate in the future. Personally I'd put a 19in wall mount enclosed rack in the garage at service entry, have my modem there, firewall, switch, etc... heat shouldn't be an issue with some top mounted squirrel fans for venting and you'll have relatively easy access. (source: I do this for a living in commercial environments)
yes, yes, yes.
I second this, either there or in the Utility closet with the Electrical (on a Different Wall). Then run conduit (or smurf) to the Bridge to run network to a closet in the house once built.
Are you considering putting in a small equipment rack with a rack mounted UPS and 1G switch?
IOW, you *should* be considering putting in a small equipment rack with a rack mounted UPS and 1GB switch. ;)
Back in 2002, I was hired to run Cat5 cables for a University's new Dorm rooms. It was 24 Dorms of 4 rooms and 2 cables in each room. So 192 cable runs to the IDF/Electrical room where there was a Fiber Optic powered switch. They would not pay for jacks at the room end so I crimped all 192 RJ45 male connectors on the solid core Cat5 cables. There was no 'Strain relief' on these connectors
It was not even a week before the 'Call Backs' came in from the students snapping the connectors off. After the 10th or so call back, they paid me to put surface mount biscuit's with Cat5 RJ45 jacks. The students then used short 'Stranded' patch cables.
No more call backs. The Uni's IT group had told the BEAN COUNTERS not to do the male connectors on the solid copper wires.
I also did all the Coax RG6 runs for the Dorms living rooms all connected without a jack but these did not get connected and disconnected daily
Running twisted pair takes me back. I have ran and terminated 1000s of feet of this on my last ship. While it may be monotonous, it is so satisfying to have all of it complete and testing good. Great video, gentleman!
Before continuing much with watching the video, you're gonna want to wire up for WiFi access points here and there.
Hate to tell you to stop and rethink, but some corrections now will make this building and the house much easier and future proofed.
You don't need CAT7 here, CAT6 is plenty for any household build, 7 is wasting money unless you're planning for some serious media server home entertainment. The parallel run next to the romex has to go. You have UTP CAT6, unshielded twisted pair, the EMI will definitely impact that run. Best cast is STP cable, harder to work with but saves you in areas where you can't avoid a parallel run. Otherwise keep that cable 8" away from a power run
Having all of this in the attic there, isn't necessary. Term the fiber, extend to a 12RU rack in the mech room and extend from a patch panel in there to where you need service: your HVAC, poe devices, network drops etc. You will find that a keystone jack termination in the wall is far better. Its cleaner, easier to certify and protects you from having to pull a new run in the future if that cable hanging out the wall ever gets damaged - it will for sure get damaged. Having to reterm the RJ45 because the clip snapped, your now impacting that entire run vs just a patch cable to the wall from device.
I do this for a living and would love to help you out here and for the future build.
Cool way the pole guy's did to pull-out the old pole and installed the new pole. great job Stud Pack on getting stuff done for cable.
Get some strain relief boots for the patch cables so you don’t break the little plastic clip when pulling. If one cable goes bad, just use that bad cable to pull a new one.
Surprised you didn’t get cat 8 cable
Why on earth would they need cat 8 cable? They're not building a data center.
I hated hearing that the decision was made not to use Cat6 jacks and faceplate. It isn't professional looking with the cable dangling out of the wall.
A bit dramatic, you’ll never see the cable for any connections made in this entire structure.
@@StudPack I know that you need to defend your decision, and that's cool. Networking is my trade and we would never go this route regardless if it's ever seen.
I would agree with everyone about this. You don't do this with other types of cables, power, coax etc, why save a few bucks on this finishing detail. Also solid wire isn't meant to be used with devices because it shouldn't be bent frequently. It's meant to be ran and permeant. The stranded wires are used for plugging into devices and jacks because ok to bend and be flexible.
I am an ex-IT (gone into software engineering) and done more than a few ethernet runs. Love seeing the vacuum trick. Agreed with others on using wall plates for cat terminations. I also recommend that you future-proof yourself and put in at least cat 6a, though in my opinion you should go straight to cat 8, though it will cost a bit more, that will support pretty much any RJ45 based networking gear for many years, any of cat 6a, 7, or 8 can support 10 GbE (and technically also cat6, but only for shorter distances). You can also use 2.5GbE hardware with cat 6 just fine, though, so I wouldn't call it a "must have".
Cat 6 will run 10Gb for like 185', which is plenty for 96% of homes
Love watching you guys, Thanks for showing what those line guys do every day and night
Should have gone with cat7, with 6 you may be limited to gigabit depending on how far your cables go. Plus for future proofing 7 would have been much better depending on how long Jordan plans to live there. Also putting a modem up in that attic area is a mistake. You are going to need to reboot it on occasion and it's gonna be a pain climbing up there every time you have to.
Cat6a is just fine. CAt7 is more difficult all the way around.
he can probably flip the breaker to reboot the setup, even if it reboots a couple other items thats ok too.
Could cat8 be better?
100% 0n the rebooting. I recently replaced the facsia around my house and disconnected the lame cable that ran to the middle of my house in the back from the pole in the corner. The lazy cable people attached it there, then ran coax around my house to almost the front where they drilled a hole about 2 feet from the ground into a bedroom.... When I put it back up, I ran it from the pole to the corner of my housein a straight shot then into my garage, then attic and all the way to the opposite side of the house. Then through the closet to the modem/router thats easily accessed. Then ran a cat 6 back up to the attic to a power over ethernet switch. Then diredt cable back to the opposite end of the house where the TV in our "living room" is. (No wifi issues) Then in the other two rooms have a direct cable as well as security cams that are powered as well from that switch. Did all this in a half day and replaced 2 main AC ducts. That day cost me about $400 and most of that was for the ducting.
Of course its on a 1600 sq ft house built in 1956 thats 8 miles from the water in southern california...... (Its tiny) I will say an identical house across the street just sold for $1.2 million 3 months ago....( with an unpermitted addition) You guys kick ass. Love the videos and your openess to criticism
@@durakislol wut, how is it more difficult? It's literally the same thing except one has more sheathing.
Don’t forget a really high quality POE switch for your cameras and access points. I have the Ubiquity Dream Machine Professional w/ 2Tb hard drive for all recordings. It’s amazing if you pair with Ubiquity G5 Dome and G5 Bullet for exterior. Run cat six for your doorbell camera too! Don’t rely on wifi
Love seeing your subscription numbers grow every week! Well deserved for the quality and content of both your videos and the helpful comments.
Love the new pole going in that was cool. Man the klein tools they make everything so much easier that was pretty neat to see. Cool trick with the string and the vacuum. Love the channel fun to watch progress.
I’m always excited to see your next video is posted. I love watching this project moving forward. Great work gentlemen! 😊
I absolutely love this channel man. Every one of ‘em are just awesome!
Saw a notification but was not able to watch until now. Got excited about seeing Stud Pack build the network portion of the house using CAT6. I already know you're reading the comments about what to revise. They definitely know what they're talking about regarding using wall plates. Try to stay away from electrical components due to EMI electro magnetic interference and possible RFI Radio Frequency Interference. This will cause your data transport irregularities. Fiber is unaffected by these issues due to its transport being light. Not sure if you plan on using a dummy switch to trunk everything but its worth a look.
DANG! This series is very entertaining! Thanks, to the entire Stud Pack crew. And obviously, you get an upward thumb.
Finally a builder that understands running network cable in a house.
Really cool content in this video. The vacuum with the string and piece of plastic baggie trick is amazing. Cheers!
Been waiting all day for this! Thank you.
I always smile when I see a post from Stud Pack!
Love you guys.