@@user-kz3ed9wo1v thanks for the support! I’m DEFINITELY an Offroad nut. When I put out a “how-to” video I try to explain it as if the person doing it is truly trying to learn and has never done it before. If you have any questions…let me know!
Excellent video. I'm about to undertake a D60 and 14 bolt overhaul for my build. Glad I found you. Just subscribed. Greetings from Saudi Arabia. I'm a Texan and an aircraft maintenance contractor.
I stole the deep fat fryer out of the kitchen, I filled it with gear oil and use it to heat my bearings to 250 or 300 degrees so they will slide right on. I prefer the longer videos because some times there is a small task that can become difficult for someone with less experience with said task and it helps to have all the details in there just for that reason. Even after turning wrenches for 25 years on heavy equipment I still like to watch the long videos and see what kind of surprises there might be on a first time project or even as a refresher for something I haven't done for a while. thanks for the detailed video.
I appreciate the support. When something is complicated…I like to give all the details. I have been on the other end before and had answers to questions not be there. That’s not helpful.
I’m looking to find out what that tool was that you use to tap in the inner axle seal. You said you would put a link in the description, but I don’t see it. Your videos are AWESOME! You’re a great teacher and it’s because I found your videos that I have the confidence to tackle this axle swap in my 2006 LJ. Super duty 05+ front and 2001 14 bolt rear. Keep up the great work. I also appreciate how you try to do things reasonably inexpensive as well!
I work on my 2018 f350 diesel and love replacing parts on it, the only thing I won't mess with is gearing, I don't have the skills for that. You made this look very easy! wish I had your talent.. I was quoted $6300 for regearing my truck from 3.55 to 4.30.. crazy!
Hey Dan, just watched your rehear video, great info. My comment, I have used a large magnet when I tap and drill the housing, helps catch all the shavings.
I bought two spare axels that had up grades. Ring gears are different. Wanted to swap my gears from my current axles and put them in . Model 20 model 35. For my cj same axles, new ones have a wider track.
That’s do axle provided they are the same exact axles. Once that is confirmed…make sure you take the measurements of backlash and run a pinion depth pattern BEFORE you take the original axles apart. Once you do, the new axles have to be set up EXACTLY the same or your gears will be VERY noisy. Minor differences in the casting even if they are the same exact axles will make you have to adjust shins for both back lash and depth. And if it is t EXACTLY the same…because they have already worn together in the other axles they’ll be too loud and wear prematurely. What I would do if just fork out the cash to buy new gears, and bearings…and set up the new axles with the same gear as you others if you line the ratio. Selling your others as compete axles when you are done will get you some of the cash back and you are doing all to e work anyway…then you’ll also have new gears and bearings.
Why does your yoke just slide onto the pinion gear so easily? Mine is really tight and would need to use a puller each time I do a shim, is this correct? Or would a new yoke fix this issue?
A new yoke might make it easier. Tbh, mine doesn’t slide all the way on. It just slides on enough to have the old pinion nut push it in the rest of the way. It’s definitely snug.
So if you aren’t using a crush sleeve and are setting it up the way I did it in this video…200 pound feet is fine. The only reason it is so tight on some diffs is because of the torque it takes to crush the sleeve. When you have an eliminator or a pinion that is designed to be set up with shims…200 pound feet is plenty. On final assembly just torque it down and add a healthy amount of red threadlock and you’ll be good.
Great video! Just the thing for me to review as I'm assembling mine. One question tho. My understanding is the seal isn't part of the pinion bearing preload numbers as it rides on the yoke and outside of the bearings. So while it will increase drag overall, it isn't added in.
So glad it helped! So for some axles you are absolutely correct. But for the superduty Dana 60, the pinion bearing preload number is calculated with the seal. It doesn’t produce that much drag either way. So I just set it at the low end of spec without and end up in the middle or high end when it’s added. But there is absolutely conflicting information in he forums in the internet. The manuals though state that it includes the seal for the superduty Dana 60 and the 14 bolt.
great new video!.. I have a couple questions... There is something I have not seen mentioned on any of the DIY Dana 60 tutorials... and it is checking that the carrier bearing races seat properly in the housing (race bores), I am going through the process of installing the same setup, Dana 60 Superduty F250 2005+ with Zip Locker.....I noticed that one of the carrier bearing races (passenger) does not seat perfectly into the bore, I can rock it and it has a slight movement from side to side, enough to see the light through... but a tiny gap.. probably half a millimeter, I did file the imperfections on the housing race bore with a small file and then scraped it with a utility knife, the races almost seat perfectly now.. it just needs a tiny bit more filing, I guess the imperfection was already there.... also... for driving the outer pinion bearing (yoke side)... is it possible to use the old nut + yoke to press it into the pinion?.. or perhaps washers and the old nut?... my concern is that hammering the bearing into the pinion will transfer some of that energy into the pinion/ring gear teeth and possible causing minor damage?? ... BTW... I have the 2008 Ford F250 service and repair manual... and there is no mention of either my concerns... checking that the race fits into the bore... or how to press the new outer pinion bearing into the bearing..in fact, the manual goes from assembling everything and then says, install yoke and drive the yoke into the pinion to torque, it completely omits any mentioning of how to install the outer pinion bearing.. from the procedure it seems the manual is instructing to press the bearing into the pinion and to press the yoke at the same time with the nut?.. I am confused... LOL.... Thanks!!!!
Hey! Thanks for the support! I’m going to try to answer all your questions. If I doesn’t make sense send me a PM on instagram and we can have an easier more timely convo there! But as far as the clearances on carrier bearings; it’s my understanding that the bearing surface in the diff and the cap work together to get perfectly round. I’m not a machinist, but it might just be that the race and new bearing as designed with the ability to be tightened down, it forces it to be “round”. With no mention of it anywhere else, I wouldn’t be concerned. As far as pinion bearing; the inner just gets pressed in. The outter, I like to heat the inner race and drop on the bearing. I just spend 30 seconds or so with a torch on the inner race and that is usually enough to have it slide right on. With some heat, if it doesn’t slide all the way on, a few light taps sends it home. I have never had a problem doing that. Just hammering it in is always a way of doing it…but I also don’t like the abuse on the ring gear and pinion head. So heat is what I usually resort to. It much easier. Just have to let it cool before continuing with set up.
@@WarPaintOffroad Thanks for the reply message!!!.. one more question... I see that you installed a new Yoke... do you mind sharing the maker / model number? Thanks!
Hey!.. I actually found the model.. .it is the Yukon Gear YY D60-1350-29U .... this yoke is the one that uses U-Bolts... the holes are not threaded... also... the U-Bolts are Yukon YY UB-004 ... one more question.. when you press the New outer pinion bearing (the Yoke side) ... how do you remove the bearing if the preload is not correct and You have to tweak the shim thickness?.. the bearing is pressed in hard.. I made the mistake of hammering the pinion to get it out... but that marred the race cup.. I had to replace it... but now I am in the same situation.. I need to remove it again... I don't want to hammer it out.. I have seen people using an Air Hammer.. but.. do you have any other way to remove the pinion / bearing that does not cause damage? Thanks!
Would it be OK to do the regear before doing the truss's? I'm just thinking regear and locker install, remove Super Duty brackets and weld on new trusses and paint everything and you're done. Also, would it hurt the bearings and seals to have the axle powder coated after the regear?
@@wademyers6051 having the axle coated after the regear wouldn’t hurt provided you tell them it has gears in it and you want to protect them. However, I wouldn’t powdercoat. If you take it Offroad you’ll scratch them up no matter what you coat them in. That’s why I recommend a durable spray paint. You can easily touch that up. You can’t touch up powdercoating. You CAN do gears before trusses. You just have to be careful with heat when welding on the trusses in the area of the axle tubes. Plus the air fitting will have to be drilled in the area that the truss slows the fitting to pass through. So it is easier to do the truss first. But it can be done the other way.
Good luck. I’m pretty far from NYC. But honestly, any gear shop would be able to do them. You could always contact a transmission shop and ask them for a recommendation. They’ll usually know someone.
Subscribe Done. I hope you are very well. You already have a 14.2K subscriber which is a huge number. Your content ideas are excellent. But your videos do not have much engagement. and need a proper searchable video tag set up to reach the targeted area and audience. Your SEO score is much lower. Can I share with you some plans for increasing views and subscribers organically?
I like how you seem like an off-road nut. You explain things so well.
@@user-kz3ed9wo1v thanks for the support! I’m DEFINITELY an Offroad nut. When I put out a “how-to” video I try to explain it as if the person doing it is truly trying to learn and has never done it before. If you have any questions…let me know!
Great video! Very informative and detailed! Nice work!
Hope it helps!
What is the inner seal that you use and that tool you used to install it?
Thanks
Excellent video. I'm about to undertake a D60 and 14 bolt overhaul for my build.
Glad I found you. Just subscribed.
Greetings from Saudi Arabia. I'm a Texan and an aircraft maintenance contractor.
Thanks for the support!
I stole the deep fat fryer out of the kitchen, I filled it with gear oil and use it to heat my bearings to 250 or 300 degrees so they will slide right on. I prefer the longer videos because some times there is a small task that can become difficult for someone with less experience with said task and it helps to have all the details in there just for that reason. Even after turning wrenches for 25 years on heavy equipment I still like to watch the long videos and see what kind of surprises there might be on a first time project or even as a refresher for something I haven't done for a while. thanks for the detailed video.
I appreciate the support. When something is complicated…I like to give all the details. I have been on the other end before and had answers to questions not be there. That’s not helpful.
I’m looking to find out what that tool was that you use to tap in the inner axle seal. You said you would put a link in the description, but I don’t see it. Your videos are AWESOME! You’re a great teacher and it’s because I found your videos that I have the confidence to tackle this axle swap in my 2006 LJ. Super duty 05+ front and 2001 14 bolt rear. Keep up the great work. I also appreciate how you try to do things reasonably inexpensive as well!
I work on my 2018 f350 diesel and love replacing parts on it, the only thing I won't mess with is gearing, I don't have the skills for that. You made this look very easy! wish I had your talent.. I was quoted $6300 for regearing my truck from 3.55 to 4.30.. crazy!
That’s wild! Tbh, if you do a bunch of work on your truck…it’s really not that hard. Just have to follow each step. Thanks for the support!
Hey Dan, just watched your rehear video, great info. My comment, I have used a large magnet when I tap and drill the housing, helps catch all the shavings.
@@RodneyRay-h6x Hey! That’s a great idea! I appreciate that. Great meeting you today!
I bought two spare axels that had up grades. Ring gears are different. Wanted to swap my gears from my current axles and put them in .
Model 20 model 35. For my cj same axles, new ones have a wider track.
That’s do axle provided they are the same exact axles. Once that is confirmed…make sure you take the measurements of backlash and run a pinion depth pattern BEFORE you take the original axles apart. Once you do, the new axles have to be set up EXACTLY the same or your gears will be VERY noisy. Minor differences in the casting even if they are the same exact axles will make you have to adjust shins for both back lash and depth. And if it is t EXACTLY the same…because they have already worn together in the other axles they’ll be too loud and wear prematurely.
What I would do if just fork out the cash to buy new gears, and bearings…and set up the new axles with the same gear as you others if you line the ratio. Selling your others as compete axles when you are done will get you some of the cash back and you are doing all to e work anyway…then you’ll also have new gears and bearings.
Why does your yoke just slide onto the pinion gear so easily? Mine is really tight and would need to use a puller each time I do a shim, is this correct? Or would a new yoke fix this issue?
A new yoke might make it easier. Tbh, mine doesn’t slide all the way on. It just slides on enough to have the old pinion nut push it in the rest of the way. It’s definitely snug.
What would you run that pinion nut down to when testing the rolling drag
So if you aren’t using a crush sleeve and are setting it up the way I did it in this video…200 pound feet is fine. The only reason it is so tight on some diffs is because of the torque it takes to crush the sleeve. When you have an eliminator or a pinion that is designed to be set up with shims…200 pound feet is plenty. On final assembly just torque it down and add a healthy amount of red threadlock and you’ll be good.
Great video! Just the thing for me to review as I'm assembling mine. One question tho. My understanding is the seal isn't part of the pinion bearing preload numbers as it rides on the yoke and outside of the bearings. So while it will increase drag overall, it isn't added in.
So glad it helped! So for some axles you are absolutely correct. But for the superduty Dana 60, the pinion bearing preload number is calculated with the seal. It doesn’t produce that much drag either way. So I just set it at the low end of spec without and end up in the middle or high end when it’s added. But there is absolutely conflicting information in he forums in the internet. The manuals though state that it includes the seal for the superduty Dana 60 and the 14 bolt.
@@WarPaintOffroad Good to know that these axle do use it as part of the overall number. Thanks. Hopefully mine goes without issue.
great new video!.. I have a couple questions... There is something I have not seen mentioned on any of the DIY Dana 60 tutorials... and it is checking that the carrier bearing races seat properly in the housing (race bores), I am going through the process of installing the same setup, Dana 60 Superduty F250 2005+ with Zip Locker.....I noticed that one of the carrier bearing races (passenger) does not seat perfectly into the bore, I can rock it and it has a slight movement from side to side, enough to see the light through... but a tiny gap.. probably half a millimeter, I did file the imperfections on the housing race bore with a small file and then scraped it with a utility knife, the races almost seat perfectly now.. it just needs a tiny bit more filing, I guess the imperfection was already there.... also... for driving the outer pinion bearing (yoke side)... is it possible to use the old nut + yoke to press it into the pinion?.. or perhaps washers and the old nut?... my concern is that hammering the bearing into the pinion will transfer some of that energy into the pinion/ring gear teeth and possible causing minor damage?? ... BTW... I have the 2008 Ford F250 service and repair manual... and there is no mention of either my concerns... checking that the race fits into the bore... or how to press the new outer pinion bearing into the bearing..in fact, the manual goes from assembling everything and then says, install yoke and drive the yoke into the pinion to torque, it completely omits any mentioning of how to install the outer pinion bearing.. from the procedure it seems the manual is instructing to press the bearing into the pinion and to press the yoke at the same time with the nut?.. I am confused... LOL.... Thanks!!!!
Hey! Thanks for the support! I’m going to try to answer all your questions. If I doesn’t make sense send me a PM on instagram and we can have an easier more timely convo there!
But as far as the clearances on carrier bearings; it’s my understanding that the bearing surface in the diff and the cap work together to get perfectly round. I’m not a machinist, but it might just be that the race and new bearing as designed with the ability to be tightened down, it forces it to be “round”. With no mention of it anywhere else, I wouldn’t be concerned.
As far as pinion bearing; the inner just gets pressed in. The outter, I like to heat the inner race and drop on the bearing. I just spend 30 seconds or so with a torch on the inner race and that is usually enough to have it slide right on. With some heat, if it doesn’t slide all the way on, a few light taps sends it home. I have never had a problem doing that. Just hammering it in is always a way of doing it…but I also don’t like the abuse on the ring gear and pinion head. So heat is what I usually resort to. It much easier. Just have to let it cool before continuing with set up.
@@WarPaintOffroad Thanks for the reply message!!!.. one more question... I see that you installed a new Yoke... do you mind sharing the maker / model number? Thanks!
Hey!.. I actually found the model.. .it is the Yukon Gear YY D60-1350-29U .... this yoke is the one that uses U-Bolts... the holes are not threaded... also... the U-Bolts are Yukon YY UB-004 ... one more question.. when you press the New outer pinion bearing (the Yoke side) ... how do you remove the bearing if the preload is not correct and You have to tweak the shim thickness?.. the bearing is pressed in hard.. I made the mistake of hammering the pinion to get it out... but that marred the race cup.. I had to replace it... but now I am in the same situation.. I need to remove it again... I don't want to hammer it out.. I have seen people using an Air Hammer.. but.. do you have any other way to remove the pinion / bearing that does not cause damage? Thanks!
Great video thanks !!!
Would it be OK to do the regear before doing the truss's? I'm just thinking regear and locker install, remove Super Duty brackets and weld on new trusses and paint everything and you're done. Also, would it hurt the bearings and seals to have the axle powder coated after the regear?
@@wademyers6051 having the axle coated after the regear wouldn’t hurt provided you tell them it has gears in it and you want to protect them. However, I wouldn’t powdercoat. If you take it Offroad you’ll scratch them up no matter what you coat them in. That’s why I recommend a durable spray paint. You can easily touch that up. You can’t touch up powdercoating. You CAN do gears before trusses. You just have to be careful with heat when welding on the trusses in the area of the axle tubes. Plus the air fitting will have to be drilled in the area that the truss slows the fitting to pass through. So it is easier to do the truss first. But it can be done the other way.
@WarPaintOffroad thanks for the answer brother. Love your channel, keep up the awesome videos!
Wish I can get you to do my Dana 30 my carrier and pinion bearings are shot. But looking for a place near near new york city
Good luck. I’m pretty far from NYC. But honestly, any gear shop would be able to do them. You could always contact a transmission shop and ask them for a recommendation. They’ll usually know someone.
Subscribe Done. I hope you are very well. You already have a 14.2K subscriber which is a huge number. Your content ideas are excellent. But your videos do not have much engagement. and need a proper searchable video tag set up to reach the targeted area and audience. Your SEO score is much lower. Can I share with you some plans for increasing views and subscribers organically?