One Ton Axle Swap Beginner’s Guide - Jeep Axle Swap
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2023
- This video is the Jeep one ton axle beginner’s guide. Everything you need to know about a Jeep One Ton swap…EVEN the stuff they don’t tell you.
AXLES YOU WANT:
2005-2016 Ford Superduty Dana 60 front axle*
*Newer than 2016 won’t work for deep gears. Same goes for the ford rear axle if it is a 2011 or newer. You can only go to a 4.88 gear. Nothing deeper.
99-2006 14 Bolt from a GM 2500 truck
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Links:
HOW TO REGEAR A DANA 60
• HOW TO REGEAR A DANA 60
HOW TO REGEAR A 14 Bolt
• HOW TO REGEAR A 14 BOL...
40’s ON A DANA 44
• 40’s ON AN ULTIMATE DA...
#car #truck #jeep #fun #laugh #funny
***Disclaimer*** This video is just meant to show how I do it. Injury may occur by trying to replicate what is in this video. Attempt at your own risk, with proper training and equipment. 
Авто/Мото
****Any Ford rear axle (Sterling) newer than 2010 can’t get gears deeper than 4.88 at the time of this video.
The more I learn...the more I love my 33" stock setup.
It’s definitely a spiral of modifications once you go large enough. You can get away with 35’s and a 3.5 inch or smaller lift without doing too much. But when you go taller than that…or larger than that with the tire….the supporting mods start….and once you pull that string…man it just keeps unraveling.
@WarPaintOffroad I'm one of those people who, if I'm completely honest with myself, my jeep has far more abilities than what my skills can handle. 😂 I keep thinking about going to 35s, but again if I'm honest with myself, it has more to do with astatic reasons rather than true functionality reasons.
It’s the funny comedy inserts for me 😂
Love your technical videos. You are unique in the community to do that. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the support. I’ll have a bunch of build videos and technical stuff coming over the next year for the CJ build. Next week’s video will be an update on the motor as I head to the engine shop to pick it up…and get it back in the original frame.
@@WarPaintOffroad Another thing to point out is that on 99-04 Superduty fronts allow the hub to be machined down to be 5 and 6 lug. 05+ do not. That was a deciding factor for me because it allowed continuity with wheels as I did swaps in steps.
You crushed this video!💪🏼 And the movie clips got me LOL. Wasn’t even thinking of a 1 Ton because I don’t wheel that much, but at a crossroad with how I want to build this TJ and you may have just pushed me in the right direction. Well made video and super informative
Hey thanks for the support! They work good. Can’t argue that. I’m going out this weekend with a 1 ton tj that I built. They work good.
THIS was a GREAT video, thank you so much for being so detailed and complete, GOOD GOOD STUFF 🤘😁
I’m glad it helped! There were a few things I didn’t speak to in the interest of keeping it more entry level and not too long. I’ll make an electronics video about the skid control and stuff soon. Thanks for the support!
It did, and I would of course dig seeing an electronics video, there are a few things I want to figure out how to change in this JKU 🤘😁
Dude, just found your channel and love it! I’m looking at getting a pretty stock LJ as my first rig to build and don’t have much experience under my belt yet. Live in Utah where we have some of the best wheeling, just need to find some wheeling clubs or something. In the meantime though, I’m learning everything I can and you’re a wealth of knowledge. 🙌 Subscribed, awesome channel!
Thanks for the support! If you have an instagram page I’m easy to reach over there! I’m building a mega stretched CJ5 right now. Doing it all in the garage from scratch. Hope the channel helps you!
Thanks for the info. 👊🏼 💥
Of course!
Great info, thank you.
Thanks for the support!
love the info in this video. I feel it could have been longer as ive seen 14bolts from rams used as well. also, on the 99-04 d60's, where the knuckle mounts is smaller as well. The opening are closer together, where as the 05+ had a larger opening. keep up the great info. 1 ton axle info i feel is so hit or miss for answers and you did a great job explaining them.
For sure! It definitely could have been longer.,but as a beginner guide…I had to try to keep it moving along. Thanks for the support!
Great video Dan. I did my ton swap about 3 years ago when I Hemi swapped my JKU. Also did the an 8spd auto at the same time. Something to add. I have the West Texas Ram on my JKU. I had them rebuild my steering box when I did my swap and ordered my ram. When they do a rebuild they will ask you what you are running. So, Justin at West Texas knew I was running an SD60. You mention the greater steering travel of the Dana 60. Well when they rebuilt my box they are able to open up and increase the travel of the stock JK steering box which allows you to take advantage of that greater steering throw. My ram on my SD60 is 9" long. The thing you do have to be careful of is, as in my case I added Barnes 3 link long arm suspension when I was doing my tons. I added Barnes tracbar mount and once I installed my rebuilt steering box had contact between my pitman arm and my tracbar mount because of the increased travel. Had to cut it off and adjust its mounting location. But....long story short you can have the stock steering box opened up a bit to add additional steering travel.
Thanks! I appreciate the support! That’s great that they were able to take advantage of it. And yes…the Barnes bracket usually doesn’t work on factory boxes. Tmr customs and rpm both make amazing brackets that work. Same with artec industries. I’ll have to speak with Justin and maybe get myself a new box.
@WarPaintOffroad I have to add that they added the extra travel and I didn't even know.....till I installed my box and had interference. I thought I had done something wrong. Called Justin and he was like, yeah...we opened it up a bit because you are running an SD60. I was like, that explains it. Just moved my tracbar mount back about an inch and all was good.
I got my box from them when I did my swap. Ended up with a box from china. Not even 20k miles on it and its wore out. Expensive downgrade from my Mopar Delphi box I sent to them.
Maybe I missed it in the video but what do you have to do in order to make the brakes work did you have to have a larger master cylinder or booster ?
I ran 40s on a built 44 for years fordyce, rubicon, dear creek, slick rock, and everything in-between. Finally swapped a dana 60 and 2004 Sterling(stretched). There are not steadfast rules.
Glad you had good luck with it. I always knew there was one guy. Glad you are him. 😂
Im new to the jeep thing and im planning to commit heresy with this first one. Its a 2011 2 door sport with the 3.8. I use it for delivery driving. I actully want to get the sky jacker low jacker 2 inch drop springs. Eventually i intend to tdi swap it and put an awd transfer case in. Im not really sure yet if i need to swap anything else 🤣 i only use this one around town. If i make an offroad rig it will be an older model
Sounds fun!
Nice
TMR is the best!
I like TMR. I also really like Artec.
Amazing info. Thank you so much
Of course!
I'm rebuilding a rear dana 44 for my TJ that I stretched to an LJ. I've cut everything off now I am trying to figure out where to put all the mounts. I am doing a triangulated rear with outboard shocks. I have put on the truss over the pumpkin but still trying to figure out the rest... Lower control and shock mounts
Sounds like an awesome build. I would put the lowers as far apart as you can. Uppers depends on whether it’s triangulated or not. Theee are lots of options. Just have to know the antisquat numbers and put the brackets in the right place accordingly. Look up antisquat and it should help you determine what you need to do.
Broken JL front axle housing
What about a longer pitman arm to increase the "throw" of the steering box? ..... in conjunction with the hydro assist?
That would certainly help. It just depends on the space you have. Things get extremely tight under there with the Superduty swapped axle. The diff is much closer to the driver side than a factory axle or even the store bought 1 ton options. So fitting things and making those kinds of adjustments gets tight. For example, my current drag link at full driver only misses the track bar bracket by less than a 1/4 inch.
I like the aam 11.5 rear axle over the 14 bolt
Just a different style 14 bolt. But I like the 10.5 tbh, it already hands down enough. I like the pinion having its own carrier, and I like the aftermarket support for it.
@@WarPaintOffroad i like the 10.5 but I do feel like the 11.5 is a better fit on mine I had a cpr 14 bolt swapped it to the 11.5 just because I wheel a full size 06 cateye with a sas I am running a 04 ford super up front and that’s my biggest regret I should have went with the 05+ but I was on a budget and this is an all leaf truck 😭 I wish I would have did the coil overs up front it’s a bit rougher but it still crawls like a monster I am running 40” on Rockzillas I do have 05+ tons and the 14 I was running in the shed I plan on doing tons on my xj and a 6.0 4l80e swap I have been debating on if I want to start a RUclips channel or not.just to document the build
Have you wheeled at mears adventure park ? If not man it is a treat into in the texas panhandle probably the best park in texas and I love the Jeep it is my favorite on RUclips
Hi, great videos and info...
Onde quesiton, what do You think about using a Ram 2008 1 ton Front Axel ???
Great question. I personally wouldn’t. There just isn’t aftermarket support for them like there is the other stuff. I mean you can make anything work if you are skilled enough. But the savings you have working with that axle versus buying a superduty axle will be offset by all the time you spend engineering it to make it work.
If you notice that the dodges don’t have hubs poking through the wheels it’s because the locking mechanism is actually located on the long side of the axle tube, I.E. a very weak link. Reason why no one is getting them out of the junkyard.
This is rhe second video I've seen of yours where you talk about not being able to use the full capacity of the dana60 steering bc of the limitations of the factory steering box.
..is there a way to upgrade or swap some steering components that would allow full articulation of the dana60 steering range?
Greta question. It’s really a combination of the geometry changing because of a number is different things. You could put a longer pitman arm on….but the problem with that becomes how far forward you move the axle, where your track bar is mounted, and the high steering kit you use. All that changes the geometry and limits space in different ways. It’s enough steering to be able to drive it. You occasionally have to make a 3 point turn where you wouldn’t have if you didn’t swap. But it’s no like it super terrible. The Barnes kit is TERRIBLE for steering angle. It just makes it so much worse. And their track bar bracket also limits it in a big way. So I wouldn’t use those parts at all it it’s just a combo of so many different things that all affects it,
Yes there is. See my comment on the video. Your factory steering box can be modified for greater steering travel.
Would a Dynatrack purpose built 60 or 80 suffer the same turning and steering issues? And how much do you think you saved doing the swap from pick n pull parts? Great video. Learning a lot. I’m interested in making a very capable but middle of the road Jeep. Something you can daily drive, tow with, and hit a trail with.
Great question! So the store bought one tons WOULD turn better. Reason being that when you get a junkyard superduty the diff is closer to the driver side. So the track bar bracket in the frame has to be moved. That is what causes the interference and restriction with the pitman arm on your steering. The store bought axles jeep the diff close to a factory location on the axle. So you don’t have to relocate it.
But be careful. Because the cheaper Dynatrak stuff is often still only a 5 lug and it winds up not having the right bearings and other things.
As far as savings, I was able to build the entire jeep (suspension, wheels, tires, axles, driveshafts, brakes, etc) for less than what a store bought set of axles cost. But that is because I did it all myself. So if you have the ability to weld fairly well, or know someone who is willing to help you….the resources are out there to show you how to do gears, what to cut, how to weld trusses…making it a great rig. 👍
Let me know if you have any other questions!
@@WarPaintOffroad I may hit you up for some consulting on a build if you’re open to that kinda thing.
What thicknes wheel spacers are you running in the rear to mach front width?
So a 1.5 inch spacer/adapter works perfectly. The axle is about 3 inches narrower than the SD60. So the spacers make it damn close. And I get them as adapters to it converts the 8x6.5 bolt pattern of the 14 bolt to the 8x170 patter of the Ford D60.
I wanted 1 ton axles and ordered a Dana 60/Dana 80 from Skinny Pedal Racing. I do not care about the price. I wanted the best axles I could get.
That’s cool. But tbh, the superduty 60 is a stronger axle. The axle tubes are a larger diameter (3.75 inches compared to 3.5) making them stronger and also thicker wall tube (half inch wall compared to .370). Take that on top of having to truss it and it’s a much stronger axle than the ultimate 60 they sell.
@@WarPaintOffroad I wish that I had this knowledge beforehand.
@@t.l.robinson2162lol that's a ton of money to drop not having done lots of research. If I were to buy aftermarket. It would be fusions superduty 60 housing and build it from there
What do you do for the bolt pattern. 1 axle Ford and 1 axle GM ??? How do you make it so they are both the same ?
Great question. So the ford is an 8x170. The Chevy is 8x6.5 there are a couple options. The most popular by a long stretch is a spacer/adapter to make the rear an 8x170 and match the front. People also do this so the rear is the same width as the front. The ford is about 3 inches wider. So getting 1.5 wheel spacers fixes that issue and still allows you to use factory ford and Chevy parts in the hubs. Then they are easier to replace when they wear. But you CAN redrill the front cord hub to an 8x6.5 to match the rear. But you still then have to deal with it being narrower. Not to mention being tougher for replacement parts.
Why if 1 tons are so good and the big tires and upgraded steering, why is it your running your hiems in single sheer when you could run them in dual sheer? You have the mods done to your knuckles to run dual sheer but your not using them?
Great question. To the sheer strength of the 3/4 stage8 bolt is actually extremely high. The reason I am running the tie rod under the high steer arms is because when I flex the jeep and steer at the same time the tie rod winds up contacting the steering ram. So it’s the only way with that particular high steer arm to make it work. Things are VERY tight on a Jk front end with that superduty axle. I am currently building a CJ5 with a custom frame that is going to be using different high steer arms and that will not be a problem.
I’m interested in what aftermarket hubs are available for 05+ 60? All I know about is warn. Yukons only makes them for 99-04 and older last I checked.
Yes. So Yukon only makes them for the earlier style…which is good because those factory hubs are super weak. Warn are the ones that I would use if I needed to. But honestly, in a rock crawling capacity, these have been fine. Where I usually see them break is if someone gets the front axle off the ground and gets some wheel speed…then when they make contact and bite it’s too much for them. But usually they are fine otherwise.
@@WarPaintOffroad I know rcv makes a 300m gear for 05+ hubs but haven’t heard any feedback.
Can you give me some details on the Sterling 10.5?
The sterling differential comes out closer to the passenger side. So it doesn’t work on a Jku because of the gas tank people. People usually wind up, running a fuel cell and removing the gas tank in order to run it. It’s a lot more difficult to regear compared to a 14 bolt as well. But the locker options are pretty much the same and the strength is arguable compared to a 14 bolt.
After getting hit by a 1989 Buick. I’m doing ton steering.
It will certainly be stronger!
Great Tech! The axle I need front and back seems clear to me. I will be doing the 2005+ front and back as a pair to make sure if I need a brake job I can just say 2005 F-*** brake job and not confuse the brake job guy with a 14 bolt GM in the rear. BUT...... I can't find WSB specs on 2005+ Dana 60's and/or the offset of the pinion from axle center in the front or rear So, when I am looking for a 2005+ axle carrier set, it is hard to ask the "guy" on Facebook Marketplace to confirm all this data before I go and look at the axle set. I need to confirm Dana 60 and not Dana Super 60. I want to confirm 4.1:1 ratio. Like to know the BOM/part number of the prospective axle. How do you handle all this need for data? I don't want to fork out $1200++ and or drive 300 miles to discover the offset of the front pumpkin doesn't "Gee Haw UP" with my transfer case. I am trying to avoid purchasing custom axle units as I am new to all this and don't feel like the high dollar investment is wise for me at this stage. Appreciate your/or anyone's thoughts.......
So the “super 60” is often referred to wrong. Super 60’s we’re actually a part of the F450 and up series of trucks. They are wider and have 10 lug hubs. As long as it’s a 2005-2016 you’ll be fine. the 14 bolt in my opinion is really a superior axle. So if you are going with a sterling just not to confuse the brake guy…he is already going to be confused when you tell him what axles are under your jeep. So I wouldn’t worry about it.
Man so glad ran across this channel! Man I love my rubicon ,,, but I do want some beefy axles eventually! Idk I was on fence ,,was thinking chromoly shafts? 😊 but I want wheel some hard stuff! 😊
Heck yea! Thanks for the support. Chromoly axle shafts will give you a huge amount of strength…it’s a big upgrade for sure. Most of the trails out there can be wheeled well on a 37 or a 38. Trusses and gussets and you can have a fairly reliable time depending on your wheeling style.
I am wanting run 37 I am on 35 now! But eventually would love have some Dana 60 under my Jeep for sure so I could beat on it! But I’ll be following ya buddy your Jeep is awesome 💯🤘🏻🤩 be safe out there!
I have an 05 tj base with a dana 35 rear and dana 30 front. I wanna run 15" wheels with 35" tires. Id probably do light to minimal offroad. What do you recommend? Also, possibly doing a hemi swap in the future.
So for a street vehicle you are okay…without a hemi. But even for light offroading, that rear Dana 35 is made of glass. People break them all the time on 33’s let along 35’s. I would do a 8.8 rear out of a ford explorer. They are cheaper than anything else. The. I would do a high pinion Dana 30 front (yours is a low pinion). You can find those from old XJ’s. They basically bolt in. If you have the money for a hemi swap then I would just go one tons and put the hemi swap off for a little bit.
@WarPaintOffroad perfect. I think im gonna go 1 ton route at my local pick a part. I have one question do these axles need to come off a 4x4 2500/3500 for rear or 4x4 f250/f350 for front? Or will 2wd work just fine?
Does it run well in snow , for such big tires
They do!
What axles do Dodge 2500/3500 run?
So the dodge rear axle is super strong. It depends on the year…but their rear axle is just a larger 14 bolt. The 14 bolt the chevy’s used is a 10.5 ring gear. The Ram uses a 11.5. The axle is made by the same company, AAM. The problem with the 11.5 is the lack of aftermarket support and ground clearance as it is larger. Their front axle is weaker than the Ford stuff only being a 9.25 ring gear…also made by AAM.
My main question that I can’t seem to find the answer to anywhere, is the width difference! Is there a width difference between the Dana 60 front and the 14bolt rear?? If so, what is it? Also, what is the difference in the bolt pattern? How can this be corrected? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m about to pull the trigger but these two questions are holding me back. Thanks
The dana 60 is 3 inches wider than the 14 bolt. The bolt pattern on the dana is 8 x170 and the 14 bomt is 8x6.5. Ballistic makes a 1.5 spacer that will allow you to add the 3 inches and also provide the 8x170 lug pattern as the dana 60
Right on. Thank you sir.
What’s wrong with the Barnes high steer?
So their passenger side bracket has two holes. One in front of the other. But their driver bracket only has one and is shorter preventing you from drilling a second. That causes you to have to use the inner hole on the passenger side arm, and the only hole on the driver arm for proper tie rod alignment. Because of this, the only place left to put the drag link is on the outter hole on the passenger side. When you have the drag link farther out than the tie rod it KILLS your steering radius. NO ONE makes their brackets like that. There are other channels that have used the Barnes kit…but it changed in design a few years ago. Their videos are older than that. So they no longer apply. Not to mention the Barnes track bar relocation bracket doesn’t work AT ALL. That happens to just be skipped over in other videos that don’t mention how they dealt with it. But TMR customs, rpm steering, artec industries all make the proper steering alignment and track bar brackets to make it all work.
I asked Barnes about it. They told me they were currently making a new design for the track bar bracket and would send it to me the following week. That was 2 years ago and I still don’t have it. It’s also not listed on their site. The steering bracket I was told was a “generic” bracket and not necessarily for jk steering. But no vehicle in the history of solid axles mounts it that way. So none of it works. You can look it up on forums…there are tons of people talking about it.
@@WarPaintOffroad wow thank you for the quick and informative response! I’ve got them on mine. Using the front holes on both and running full hydro. Jeep lacks brake lines fuel lines and driveshafts but when I heard you say that I was about to cry thinking it would be a bust😂 thanks again man!
Wonder if swapping to one ton axles rob horsepower
the crew at GenRight Offroad all have one ton axles and don't seem to have a problem with horsepower.
they are full time rock crawlers and King of Hammers racers.
It’s definitely more of a parasitic draw. But not a ton. It will make you feel a little slower though as they are much heavier. But when you are switching to one tons and adding a 40 inch tire or larger…you aren’t doing it to be fast.
The axles are definitely much heavier. Best thing is to just add more horsepower and Hemi swap it. LOL.
I asked on the other video but I am 100% serious I would love to hire you to install superduty axles on my Gladiator. Please post your ID or something so we can talk about it my JT is Nacho color and I think showing one you built on 42s would cool for the channel
Send me a message on my instagram. @WarPaintOffroad
@@WarPaintOffroad sent!