Designing for multi colour/extrusion - 3D design for 3D printing
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
- Check out my 2nd channel, TT Racing: / @ttracingyt
To get the best out of 3D printing, it helps if you can design your own parts. In this tutorial series, we will learn to use a free 3D CAD program to do just that.
In this episode, I demonstrate how to convert logos and other graphics into clean, multi-part models for multi-colour 3D printing. This step by step guide includes converting from jpeg to raster, slicing and printing.
3D design for 3D printing source CAD: cad.onshape.com/documents/b54...
0:00 Introduction
3D design for 3D printing playlist: • 3D design for 3D print...
0:50 Basic sketched logo
1:24 Imported DXF logo
3:30 Exporting for slicing
4:31 Assigning filaments and slicing
5:34 Printing
5:56 Converting to DXF from an raster image
Free converter: imagetostl.com/convert/file/j...
8:28 Offsetting a sketch
Open source logo by Mateo Zlatar: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
9:48 Detailed graphic
Bruce Lee by Apurba Kanti Roy: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
/ @apurbakantiroy
11:39 Manual tracing
Ayrton Senna Helmet: www.pngwing.com/en/free-png-d...
12:14 Conclusion
4D printing video: • 4D Printing at home - ...
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Great CAD tutorial as always.
A recommendation for creating multi material CAD: If you create only a 0.2-0.4mm thick layer for different colors and leave the rest as a base color that means you only have to do a handful of filament purges throughout the print instead of multiple per layer. This will save tremendously on filament waste and print time while maintaining the aesthetic of a multi color print.
This worked well for me in a large batch job of multi material prints I did.
Another point: if your colors go all the way through the z axis, the different colored parts may not actually physically bond to each other and they could fall apart.
Yes! 👍
Expanding on the thinner layer method, you can also achieve pretty good multi color logos with a printer that doesn't normally support multi color/material.
Just make the logo very thin, like 0.1mm, and make sure to center it on the buildplate in your slicer. Print the logo and leave it on the buildplate.
Then, with the "frame" you want the logo on you can just model it with a completely flat surface, and make sure that the center point of the frame matches the one on the logo. You can then load a new color in the printer and place the frame model centered on the buildplate with a first layer thickness of about 0.2-0.25mm. Start the print, and it will "overwrite" the logo with the frame on top, and melt the frame to the logo.
It's a bit tedious, but it usually works great as long as you have a well tuned printer that makes good first layers and has good adhesion to the buildplate. Once you're used to the process it doesn't even take that long to set up.
You can do something similar with a single extruder printer. Get the sketch setup the same way, then extrude the entire sketch the thickness of the first color. Open the sketch again and extrude everything but the first color, doing a join so it's all one object making this extrude slightly larger than the first one--one or two layers should be enough. Repeat this over and over until you've done all the colors in your object. That will give you an object that has different layers. In your slicer, put a color change or pause command in at each color change.
Take the open source logo, for example, The first extrude would be the entire sketch a height of 5 mm. Then the next one would be just the inner part of the logo to a height of 5.2 or 5.4 mm for a 0.2mm layer height. In your slicer, put a color change after the 5mm layer is complete. Your printer will pause, you can then change the filament and resume the print. The logo will be slightly proud of the surface, in a different color.
or use hueforge :)
The Open Source Hardware logo at 8:34 was an SVG to start with. A vector format. InkScape can convert that to DXF without ever losing the vector data.
InkScape could convert raster files too. We use the same process for our Cricut.
Another option, extrude the different text options are marginally different depths (think 0.01mm). Bambu studio will see the slightly different later height making it easy to paint as a surface, but when sliced will round off the small difference in height into one bottom surface.
thanks! i was hoping it would round out but wasnt really sure.
If you don't want to use the cloud, here's my workflow:
* If you're starting from something like Word, PowerPoint, Excel, or anything similar, export or print to PDF. PDFs can store vector graphics, so no need to worry that you're losing resolution or anything.
* Inkscape can import PDFs, so you can use it to import. Any text will have to be converted to paths, and if you have any bitmap graphics, you will want to trace them, which Inkscape has tools for.
* Blender can import SVGs. From there, you can apply the Solidify modifier to extrude the paths or do whatever you want with them.
Fantastic! Thanks a bunch, Michael!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Finally. Been looking to see a video with this type of work
You can also import the image in cad software and trace over it. Autocad will even allow you to snap to the lines.
That s VERY VERY NICE !!!! i love it !
Awesome video. Your ttr logo turned out sweet!!
One thing Bambu/Orcaslicer can't do that PrusaSlicer can is let you only print the logo portion for a couple of layers instead of having it be solid all the way through. This saves hours of print time and tons of filament swaps.
how exactly? can you elaborate please and thank you!
@@glopyz This is something I observed recently. I have a model similar to the one in the video except the “logo” is thin and on the top and bottom surfaces. The object is 10mm thick while the logos are 0.6mm thick. When importing a 3mf as an object with multiple parts, Orcaslicer doesn’t slice the logo on the face on the build plate. PrusaSlicer doesn’t have this issue. Maybe if you import them as separate objects and merge them OrcaSlicer can slice them, but that disrupts this nice workflow demonstrated here.
Great video, well explained.
Really live your tutorial videos! They help me a lot.
Cool! I have seen something like this but with no CAD involved, but even I could use this!
I wish you’d uploaded this a week ago! I was attempting this exact thing for my brother and his friends.
Love it
As you say - don't use anything with that platform that you don't want to be copied.
Also - as for mr Lee and similar projects, you might want to make them single-sided and then just put the black a layer or two on top on top of the background. This will save time and filament and will even be possible with an ordinary printer, given it supports M600 (which includes virtually anything unless it's very old or named Ultimaker)
Niceeee 🎉🎉🎉
I recognize that Ayrton Senna helmet 😏
Awesome video! Please consider making a octo4a tutorial. It's an awesome tool that has helped me a lot and might help others!
I must be getting all the same videos. This is the 3rd one I got in a week. lol
This one is a little more hands on than the others though. The others were far less steps but good to see how to manually do it.
Great video! It would be nice to show how to do this without the colors going all the way through, and just have black (or whatever your base color is) in the background.
When choosing the filament/color for each part, just type in the number associated with the filament. Must faster than going through all of the menus to change filament.
Would it make sense to design thicker parts so the colored segments are only 3-4 layers deep to save purge waste and print faster?
Really enjoying this . I am trying to scratch build a 00 scale Clyde Puffer and need sim Cowl vents. Do you know how to model them?
Thanks
Charlie
I have created multi color prints using a single extruder. You just need to change the filament at different layer heights in your slicer.
That is not what this is. This is about having different colors on the same layer
@@rp479you can do it with a single extruder too. You just have to be there for each filament change instead of the machine doing the change itself. It's very time consuming though.😅
@@rp479you can also do it with the marker style multicolor printer aswell. I forget the name for it but it works alright 👍 just need white/transparent petg
@@whatif8741 that is correct but that’s not what the original comment was talking about
I do this with multiple gcodes, one for each color, thus obtaining everything on the same layer, using z hop to avoid scratching what is already printed
Can you do one of these for Fusion 360 as well? Please!
When's the HueForge tutorial coming up?
Have you done any with resin printing ?
When I 'create selection' and change to 'loop' then select a line, it will not complete the loop. I thought perhaps there was a break in it that I can't see but if I extrude the same outline, that works fine. I've tried on various outlines, and none seem to complete the loop. What am I missing?
Trying a free Onshape account, and it looks NOTHING like what is in this video. There is no menu at all in onshape. Confused. Is there an easier way to do this?
I have to say, i`m a littel disapointed that this didn`t cover the one colour printer multi colour prinitng (which is done in layers of different colours on top of one another, with filament changes in between. but it`s stunning the quaility the bambulab produces and great idea to print upside down...
What if you want to select more than one line for the offset? It doesn't work, e.g. I want to make some keyrings, but the letters aren't connected.
The purgeblock was a very unfortunate colorscheeme.
Great video but Michael.... can we talk about how you're still using WinRAR instead of something modern and open source like 7-Zip? 😆
He maybe bought WinRAR 😂
А как быть, если у тебя нет устройства для смены цвета пластика???
Als deutscher kann ich hier nur sagen dass der wipe-tower eine sehr ungünstige Zusammensetzung hat
Flex PLA vid?!???!!!!!
What an epic fail.
No Chuck Norris.
**Shakes head**
But all i got is my 3 year old janky Ender 3 Pro...😭😭😭
You printed your logo in a pretty bad way. The multiple colours are only for cosmetic reasons but you have different colours all the way through the part, so multiple filament changes every layer. You should have had the bulk of the print be black and have the letters just as a thin layer on the top or bottom, it is more steps to do but still isn’t difficult. It would save a lot of filament and time.
Your first layer is a disaster with all that junk.
hey man may you please give me one small 3D printer🙏🙏🙏
* Makes open source hardware logo
* Tutorial is for OnShape and Bambu
Ouch. Yeah, this video is getting a thumbs down from me now.