Hey guy´s mechanical engineer here. Keep in mind the flow of force is like the flow of water, try to unrestrict the flow by designing big radii and avoiding sharp corners. Also the most outer shells are responsible for the majority of strength. For that reason it is important to have more outline layers instead of higher infill. It is for that reason why hollow tubes have about 10% less mechanical strength compared to filled material which is much much heavier. I hope I helped somebody new to the topic in understanding WHY you should design things a certain way.
To add to this, the part would likely have been even stronger with thinner webbing on the arm. You can see at 15:39 that the webbing is just thick enough that each wall stops and has a bit of Infill before starting the next wall… this prevents the strong walls from transferring the load because they aren’t continuous. For the strongest webbing of this type, make it exactly the width of your 2x wall thicknesses combined.
Loving the series Michael, great work. I have just a couple of tips that will make a couple of things much easier here. Firstly, when doing counterbore or countersunk bolt holes, consider using the Hole tool. That way you don't need to dimension the holes, just tell it you want a counterbore hole to fit an M5 bolt, and Onshape will take care of the rest. Secondly, when you are drawing the polygon pattern for the final piece, it is much simpler just to sketch single lines rather than double lines, then extrude the sketch as a surface, and finally using the thicken tool to make it all the required thickness. Not trying to be critical, there are 100 ways to go about this, none of them wrong. These are just a couple of things I do to make things easier.
For anyone using Fusion, it has a similar tool! It's so incredibly helpful to tell it that you want a tight clearance countersunk hole for an M3 screw and have it just do it for you
Seconding the hole tool. If you need to adjust for printer tolerances I've found Move Face to be really useful for that. It means you can suppress it if you are making a drawing for the part to be machined too. Yeah, the polygon pattern - I would have extruded all of it and booleaned it together with the part before cutting it out. But I'm lazy.
@@evanbarnes9984 Fusion's tool is unfortunately not ideal for 3D printing in my experience. The clearance usually works out for the clearance holes, but the threads are pretty bad for printing. The CustomThreads plugin does a much better job for me.
I love doing this when there’s a protrusion or arm that I’m worried about breaking. Just bore out a screw hole from the base or back of your part. Then when it’s done printing I heat the screw and screw it in.
This is the way. By incorporating metal or composite rods into prints, you can design functional prints that are many times stronger than plastic alone, while using less plastic. And, for the models that I split into sections for optimal print alignment and elimination of support material, I'll incorporate small dowel channels for finishing nails, allowing for precise alignment and strength when assembling with adhesive. I think there's a tendency for those of us in the 3D printing world to try to make things *entirely* on the printer, which I've certainly done in the past. Very often, the better practice is to design with the idea of combining the print with other materials in post-processing. You can usually build much better parts, while also being more efficient.
A friendly suggestion related to the lattice, and the endless select-select-select of those interrupted profiles when extruding: - Define the arm's outer and inner profiles in a sketch, and make those lines construction lines. - In the same sketch, make a grid pattern using *squares,* rather than intersecting lines. Draw a rectangular boundary around that pattern, and you have one, contiguous profile to extrude. - Start a new sketch, and project the arm's profile into the sketch. - Extrude the lattice, then extrude the arm. Cut the lattice using the arm extrusion, delete the outer portion of the lattice, and join the two remaining components. SO much faster, and will be more "robust" (i.e. less prone to downstream errors) if you change grid parameters. Overall, I'm a big fan of your TT endeavour, and I was very excited to see this series. I think lots of 3D printer owners are underutilizing their machines because design can be daunting, so I hope this inspires many to learn how to design. As someone who has designed nearly everything that has hit my print bed (I can probably count on two hands the number of .stl files I've downloaded and printed), the "design it myself" approach has come naturally, but I know that's not the case for others. I've nearly worn out two sets of calipers with all the use they get. Oh, and another tip: measuring large cylinders (such as the drill press post) can be problematic if the calipers aren't large enough to capture the diameter. In those situations, use a fabric measuring tape, or even a non-stretchy bit of cord, measure the circumference, and pi will get you to the diameter.
I was wondering why you would take material out of the brace instead of leaving it solid, but when you pointed out that walls are stronger than fill it made perfect sense. Excellent video! I've been enjoying this whole series!
One thing I did in a recent design was add a honeycomb pattern to the part. It dramatically increased the strength of the part. If you think about it all a pattern does is increase the surface area and the number of walls but it's really effective and it looks cool.
Another thing you can do is to not worry about creating the pattern in OnShape. Just extrude it and then when you get into the slicer, pick the honeycomb infill pattern and then just remove the top and bottom layers. Viola, you have a cool looking, strong part without wasting time modeling.
@@menerso I was thinking the same thing! In Cura (not sure about other slicers) you can adjust the number of lines used in the infill pattern, so you can make the pattern as think as you like.
Hey Michael, we all have our own habits, but you could do les operations for the bolts/nuts stage by using the "second end position" parameter in the extrude window. The hole tool is probably much faster than using concentric circles as you can use existing vertex of previous sketches. That tool makes countersink and counterbore operations a breeze.
Listening heavy metal for 30 years hasn't taught me anything I can use in 3d printing. I've owned a printer for 10 days and already had to design two part thingamabobber because the frickin' thing wasn't happy in any orientation. Snap crackle and pop of the 2020s.... These videos are priceless for any human. And people too.
This was *such* a helpful video. Both from a design standpoint but also on what to consider when printing for strength. Another fantastic video, thanks Michael!
Thanks for the vid. Agree with some commenters on designing for assembly without tools using things like dovetails, or zip ties. Probably would go thicker too, because that might not survive many knocks. Wrapping with a high-tenacity yarn + resin would bolster what's been made. To print faster you could get creative with vase mode and ribs/voids to pour in fast cast PU resin for strength; basically printing a mold that becomes the outter surface of the part. Saves on filament and time - probably comparable on cost, but makes something really solid, really fast. Just need to consider width of voids so resin doesn't heat up too much while curing. For those with lighter wallets the discontinued Autodesk 123D has a similar methodology to Onshape (albeit less features) and saves to local disk. Really complex forms can be made by combining shapes and 'subtracting' them from the main part.
Thanks Michael. Small hint: Instead of two separate extrusions to form the nut and bolt pockets in the clamp you could have used the "second end position" option in the first cut to leave material where you want it. Keep it up!
Good content. The problem I have with parts under tension/compression is PLA always creeps so the screws loosen. I have better results with PETG and ABS.
Love all your how to videos. Especially the ones using free services. Thanks for everything. Also the 13 year old boy in me had a good giggle at the phrase trapped nuts. 😂
The tip on the bracket design aboujt perimeters is brilliant. Having all those perimeters accros the cross section would definetely be stronger and cheaper/faster. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the tutorials! I've been learning from them. I had been using Fusion 360 for 4 years and switching to OnShape with your help! Thank you so much!
I design and print alot of these types of parts at work. I like to use a honey comb pattern similar to your cross hatch pattern. I have found that printing parts with patterns like this does not actually save any filament or print time. Yes you are reducing the volume of the part but you are adding a lot of material in shells (perimeter layers) that would not have existed if you printed the part without this pattern. However I am in full agreement that patterns like this will make the parts much stronger. I often size the gaps in my patterns as a 2x interval of my nozzle size (2.4 or 3.6 or 4.8mm for a 0.6mm nozzle)... this way the pattern is printed without any infill and is made entirely of shell layers. Very nice video.
for the fixture holes in the tray: OnShape has a function to drill Holes. Just put points on the sketch for the centers of the holes, dimension them, and use the drill function selecting them all and setting the drill function to flat bottom countersink. this way you could change the holes to a different size all at once if what you picked was too small/big
Great walkthrough of the process Great that you talk about the layer line straight and the slicers ability to make the parts STRONG Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
Analysing how much stress a simple cantilever deflection will create is useful. People seem to make things thicker, or thinner, until they stop breaking, so being able to design to stress of say 40% of breaking in a deflection problem can save lots of trial and error. The equations I use are for a cantilever of length l, width b, height h, deflection y, stiffness E, then the force at the tip of the cantilever is 0.25*E*b*y*(h/l)**3 and the maximum stress is 6*force(E,b,h,y,l) * l/(b * h**2). Generally one twiddles b, h, and l, the other variables y and E being fixed by geometry and material constraints, until force and stress are OK.
Big fan of the channel! I think you'll wanna check out the "lighten" featurescript, it'll make doing the triangulated features much easier. I use this for lightweighting CNC cut caravan walls and it saves a lot of time.
I really enjoyed this video and learned a lot of good tips. I made a first version of the drill press collar and no way was it going to "stretch' over the drill press column. So, I made a slight modification to your design that worked for me. I split the collar in half, added a place for bolts on the other side, and now have a 'hinged' part that works great. (Wish I could add a couple of pics.)
14:00 You could've used the trimming tool and drag across any unwanted lines, turning the patterned shapes into less total geometry to select tediously. (At least, that's what I do in Fusion 360)
1st try with onshape, didn't like it, 2nd try, followed the video, created the domino, 3rd try, created my own part independently. Seeing the benefit and starting to like onshape. Thanks for the series, easy to follow ( though a little quick in places ) detailed and clear. I am learning a lot, Matter Control was the only tool I've used so far and I can see this has more capability. Can you cover text and fonts please! 👍👍
I am not an OnShape user; I use Fusion 360. But what I believe is outstanding about your design videos is that they have excellent instruction and information for 3D printed part design that is relevant to designers no matter what CAD software they are using. I will look forward to more of your design videos.
Great walk through of the design process! My only concern is the use of PLA, which will creep over time and mean the parts that are under stress will loosen off.
For the wobble, could you make a border, either through 3d printing (Though I would feel like that is a waste.) or from scrap wood, around the base of your drill press where it meets the floor. Print, or make small spacers to lift the base up just a bit. Seal the border to the floor with hot glue, and fill with silicone with the press in place to make a rubber base for it to sit on,. That should aid in stabilization and vibration reduction?
There is an easy way to reduce the wobble of the drill press. Put high strength double sided tape under the feet. You can add extra layers to take up any unevenness of the floor if you want. Otherwise, just having 3 points attached works perfect for a steady base. For tape, I recommend the 3M extreme mounting tape (30lbs/sq inch). just make sure everything is clean of dust, dirt, and oil before applying. Best of all, if you want to move the drill later, you can just use a little acetone to get the tape to release.
Great series. Recently picked up a 3d printer and I am going to try and make a flag pole holder for a pirate flag for my kids den. Any tips on making an angled hole would be amazing as I am stumped trying to get the hole to follow the hypotenuse of a triangle. Keep the videos coming.
Edit the sketch with the hypotenuse line and draw a construction line at 90deg to it (or in next step you can use an existing solid line that’s at 90deg) close sketch Make a new plane to draw on and choose that line for the base of that plane you can now sketch your circle for the flag pole on that new plane at the correct angle
Good stuff, thank you for sharing and educating us 👍 With regards to the clamp and the flex/strength tradeoff - the easy solution would be to make it two-part (connect on both sides of the circle: the other connection can be modeled for as a permanent. You wouldn't be constrained by the outward flex, when putting it over the column, hence, one could use higher fill percentage
Great vid, so thanks. Interested in how you got the chamfer on the clamp bolt head holes (11m38s). I have a hairpin shape sweep running through a part to enable cord to be threaded in-round-out. I cannot get a chamfer or fillet where the "tunnel" exits the rounded piece.
For anyone needing calipers, the neiko ones linked are excellent, but I have a brand called vinca that is the same price, that I've compared to a nice set of gage blocks and a mitutoyo set of calipers that was several hundred dollars, and I was getting exact same measurements out to the thousandth of an inch,
You could have used an additional mounting point in your design which would significatly improve stability. On the left to the red surface are 2 bolts. You could have used one of them as well. Also the Bracket could be way thicker than 7mm. You could have used a "go pro" style mount at the clamp and therefore mounted the bracket on multiple contact points.
In Onshape, there is a custom feature script called Thread creator that you can add and which will take care of this in seconds. Just create a blank bolt, and then use thread creator to add the threads, it's very flexible
Only "flaw" i see is where clamp and arm meet don't allow for a secure fit with tolerance. Two ways it could have been done to ensure the clam would be tight and also the arm. First is print as once peace, formed in a ? shape. Second would be to make an insert to the arm for captured nuts then on the clamp allow more room where the nut goes to either fit a socket or wrench, this way you can tighten the clamp onto the arm, then tighten the clamp to the post. OR just jam some shims in there and call it a day 😉
Terrific mate I’m a complete newby to 3d printing and I’m so happy that I’ve stumbled upon your channel here at the very early stages of my journey…. Right now I’m looking to get my first printer the ideas that got me into this means the parts I want to print are Looong. I will need to max out any size that any printer can do and join the “tubes” together, as well as I want to develop Taylor/bespoke masks for festival type wear, I was looking at the anycubic max but I will need to be able to print tpu as well as “tough”/“abrasive” filaments. I am really interested in the magician X pro. Large build size and direct drive I’ve read amazing things and wondering what your thoughts are on it (if you have any??) Anyway I love the Chanel and please keep it coming mate💯
This is a great tutorial, but there’s gotta be a better and less hacky way to introduce supporting perimeters into a structural part. I guess your way works and has a bit of a fun aesthetic, but I feel like there should be a better way aside from something really extra like finite element simulation/optimization or smart infill ala CNCkitchen. I’d have probably just given it like 5 perimeters and a flat parallel interior wall to add more filament in the loaded direction, but I kinda hate modeling. But then I’d have tried to do something fancy like a blind dovetail to slide the shelf bracket onto the column mount so it’s removable without tools . Or maybe tried to come up with a compliant mechanism to flex and lock the column mount rather than boring bolts (that you have to run out to the store for). Aaaaaaand I would have spent 10 hours on it. Damn it, never mind, carry on
Wait... 10 hours on a part that could have easily been designed in 20 minutes, just because you wanted to try some novel design elements or were drawn to overcomplicate the design? I KNEW someone was looking over my shoulder all these years.
@5:56 doesn't onshape support offset extrudes? would make this a single operation like fusion360 instead of a two operation cut and separate fill as done here. even more optimized in fusion 360 would be to do the entire hole as a feature and then just mirror the feature. seems quite limited in onshape here.
I am kinda sceptical about the strength-claims for the bracket: Have you tested or simulated any of that? Cause sure - outer perimeters are stronger, but that is cause of 2 reasons of which neither apply here: The material furthest away from the center has the most impact on strength, but the pattern is in the middle of the section - the part with the least stress (see i-beams). And for the high strength the printed material needs to be continuous lines, but the way it will be printed it means they are all just independent rectangles that are not connected. I would guess that the bracket would likely have been stronger if left solid with a bit more infill, and that at shorter print-times and less material used. And another option would have been to increase the thickness of the beam like with an i-beam - as the top is already thicker to connect to the tray it would only need a few extra mm on the bottom. But it likely will last long enough anyways.
Great video 🤩 !! Thanks a lot Mickaël 😀 This rack is a nice project, i do a lot of identicals projetcts for drawning materiels, i have to say i do more prototypes 1.5mm thick on the faces which requires précision (to fit tools for example). Then i rectify the measurements, apply some printing rules and print the final piece. Thick prototypes saves time and filament 😉👍.
Can you do a strength comparison between the solid and the latice versions of that part? Assuming the same slicer settings I can't see how the lattice version is stronger.
Make a pedistol in the floor out of uv resin. If you really wanted to be fun you could make a box in the floor with your printer and then pour resin into it then place the drill on top of it. It's only semi permanent but should hold a little drill in place.
Why criss cross cutout? The infill is the same shape. With the outer shell it is even stronger than the one with the cutout. Check CHEP and Makers Muse videos on the matter. FYI Cutouts are made to have less material usage with CONVENTIONAL production methods. Additive manufacturing lets you have less material usage with the same strength of the final part
Agreed. This is an example of where additive manufacturing doesn't have to abide by all the constraints we have in conventional production. Additive doesn't necessarily require elements like reinforcement webbing, draft angles, and so many other things.
can I ask the mechanical engineers, would a hinge be better on the clamp, rather than forcing it around the pillar? I'd prefer not to stress my parts, or am I missing something? cheers for any responses
I believe there is an easier way to make the grid in the arm, using boolean logic. You will need to make a copy of the object without any cutouts(full), and one with the 5mm offset cutout(offset). and you will need the grid. First select the union of the grid and full, then join that with the offset version.
Bingo. Also, to avoid having to select all of those interrupted profiles individually, make a pattern of *squares,* rather than lines, and you then have just one contiguous profile to select.
If you just made the clamp and support bar the same print, you could have made it thicker and it'd have been plenty strong. Also would fit slightly different bars, rather than be reliant on that 7mm gap.
You know that dug out basement is going to hinder you personally and professionally. Assuming you own the property consider ripping the band aid off now and having it dug out, poured floors, block walls etc etc. It’s only a matter of time before everything metal starts rusting as it doesn’t even look like there is a vapor barrier down. I’ve worked in a lot of those basements as an HVAC tech in a historic town near me. The difference is amazing once someone has them “finished”.
Been considering designing something like this for my 3D printer, though I have been having a bit of issues with a new stepper motor I got recently skipping steps..(tried changing the voltage multiple times with no success).. maybe I got a faulty one 🤔
Just a tip for design to keep in mind for some rookies, this collet design is great because it can be install just by lifting the head of the drill (lightweight) or remove the post. If that drill have been heavy weight and cannot be unmounted or removed, it will be a good idea to split the assembly ring in two parts for more practical time saving assembly. Thanks for tutorial.
Can we start a "design for 3dp" wiki where we collect all the tips and tricks for all the different kinds of joints and functionals features? It would be awesome to have website that everyone could share a guide on how to design a specific feature and everyone would know where to look up for tips when stuck in a design process. Would be so much easier than looking up tens of videos just to find that one tip somewhere inbetween the 20 min vids
Hey guy´s mechanical engineer here. Keep in mind the flow of force is like the flow of water, try to unrestrict the flow by designing big radii and avoiding sharp corners. Also the most outer shells are responsible for the majority of strength. For that reason it is important to have more outline layers instead of higher infill. It is for that reason why hollow tubes have about 10% less mechanical strength compared to filled material which is much much heavier. I hope I helped somebody new to the topic in understanding WHY you should design things a certain way.
To add to this, the part would likely have been even stronger with thinner webbing on the arm. You can see at 15:39 that the webbing is just thick enough that each wall stops and has a bit of Infill before starting the next wall… this prevents the strong walls from transferring the load because they aren’t continuous. For the strongest webbing of this type, make it exactly the width of your 2x wall thicknesses combined.
@@wbhandy Yes, you are absolutely right, thank you for your additional input and keen eye.
Be water my friend
@@FriendshipLights Feeeel the force
@@sierraecho884 hahaha
Loving the series Michael, great work. I have just a couple of tips that will make a couple of things much easier here. Firstly, when doing counterbore or countersunk bolt holes, consider using the Hole tool. That way you don't need to dimension the holes, just tell it you want a counterbore hole to fit an M5 bolt, and Onshape will take care of the rest. Secondly, when you are drawing the polygon pattern for the final piece, it is much simpler just to sketch single lines rather than double lines, then extrude the sketch as a surface, and finally using the thicken tool to make it all the required thickness. Not trying to be critical, there are 100 ways to go about this, none of them wrong. These are just a couple of things I do to make things easier.
For anyone using Fusion, it has a similar tool! It's so incredibly helpful to tell it that you want a tight clearance countersunk hole for an M3 screw and have it just do it for you
Seconding the hole tool. If you need to adjust for printer tolerances I've found Move Face to be really useful for that. It means you can suppress it if you are making a drawing for the part to be machined too.
Yeah, the polygon pattern - I would have extruded all of it and booleaned it together with the part before cutting it out. But I'm lazy.
@@evanbarnes9984 Fusion's tool is unfortunately not ideal for 3D printing in my experience. The clearance usually works out for the clearance holes, but the threads are pretty bad for printing. The CustomThreads plugin does a much better job for me.
I love the 3D printing community. Just a bunch of people happy to help each other out with their problems. 🙂
@@evanbarnes9984 didnt know that, whats that called ? or where it is?
Another way to dramatically increase strength is embed threaded rod. It's cheap, not too hard to cut, and often easy to integrate.
I love doing this when there’s a protrusion or arm that I’m worried about breaking. Just bore out a screw hole from the base or back of your part. Then when it’s done printing I heat the screw and screw it in.
Great design tip.
This is the way. By incorporating metal or composite rods into prints, you can design functional prints that are many times stronger than plastic alone, while using less plastic. And, for the models that I split into sections for optimal print alignment and elimination of support material, I'll incorporate small dowel channels for finishing nails, allowing for precise alignment and strength when assembling with adhesive. I think there's a tendency for those of us in the 3D printing world to try to make things *entirely* on the printer, which I've certainly done in the past. Very often, the better practice is to design with the idea of combining the print with other materials in post-processing. You can usually build much better parts, while also being more efficient.
@@timshimotakahara9508Well said. I do the same. 10% extra effort can make for a >400% stronger part.
@@timshimotakahara9508 Very good comment.
A friendly suggestion related to the lattice, and the endless select-select-select of those interrupted profiles when extruding:
- Define the arm's outer and inner profiles in a sketch, and make those lines construction lines.
- In the same sketch, make a grid pattern using *squares,* rather than intersecting lines. Draw a rectangular boundary around that pattern, and you have one, contiguous profile to extrude.
- Start a new sketch, and project the arm's profile into the sketch.
- Extrude the lattice, then extrude the arm. Cut the lattice using the arm extrusion, delete the outer portion of the lattice, and join the two remaining components. SO much faster, and will be more "robust" (i.e. less prone to downstream errors) if you change grid parameters.
Overall, I'm a big fan of your TT endeavour, and I was very excited to see this series. I think lots of 3D printer owners are underutilizing their machines because design can be daunting, so I hope this inspires many to learn how to design. As someone who has designed nearly everything that has hit my print bed (I can probably count on two hands the number of .stl files I've downloaded and printed), the "design it myself" approach has come naturally, but I know that's not the case for others. I've nearly worn out two sets of calipers with all the use they get.
Oh, and another tip: measuring large cylinders (such as the drill press post) can be problematic if the calipers aren't large enough to capture the diameter. In those situations, use a fabric measuring tape, or even a non-stretchy bit of cord, measure the circumference, and pi will get you to the diameter.
You have excellent insight to understand that not everybody can design. I applaud 👏🏻 you for saying it.
Isn’t there a WEB command like in Fusion360? This would have saved a lot of time.
I was wondering why you would take material out of the brace instead of leaving it solid, but when you pointed out that walls are stronger than fill it made perfect sense. Excellent video! I've been enjoying this whole series!
One thing I did in a recent design was add a honeycomb pattern to the part. It dramatically increased the strength of the part.
If you think about it all a pattern does is increase the surface area and the number of walls but it's really effective and it looks cool.
Another thing you can do is to not worry about creating the pattern in OnShape. Just extrude it and then when you get into the slicer, pick the honeycomb infill pattern and then just remove the top and bottom layers. Viola, you have a cool looking, strong part without wasting time modeling.
@@menerso I was thinking the same thing!
In Cura (not sure about other slicers) you can adjust the number of lines used in the infill pattern, so you can make the pattern as think as you like.
Bees for the win
You also could have lifted the head of the drill press off the column and slid the clamp onto the column.
Like those video! its good to see others people workflow and input data for when we get to design ourselves! thanks!
Brilliant, Michael! 😃
Thanks for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hey Michael, we all have our own habits, but you could do les operations for the bolts/nuts stage by using the "second end position" parameter in the extrude window. The hole tool is probably much faster than using concentric circles as you can use existing vertex of previous sketches. That tool makes countersink and counterbore operations a breeze.
Listening heavy metal for 30 years hasn't taught me anything I can use in 3d printing. I've owned a printer for 10 days and already had to design two part thingamabobber because the frickin' thing wasn't happy in any orientation. Snap crackle and pop of the 2020s.... These videos are priceless for any human. And people too.
This was *such* a helpful video. Both from a design standpoint but also on what to consider when printing for strength. Another fantastic video, thanks Michael!
Love your content. Im a huge motorsports guy. I love seeing your prcesses and thinking of how I might apply them using 3d printing etc.
Thanks for the vid. Agree with some commenters on designing for assembly without tools using things like dovetails, or zip ties. Probably would go thicker too, because that might not survive many knocks. Wrapping with a high-tenacity yarn + resin would bolster what's been made. To print faster you could get creative with vase mode and ribs/voids to pour in fast cast PU resin for strength; basically printing a mold that becomes the outter surface of the part. Saves on filament and time - probably comparable on cost, but makes something really solid, really fast. Just need to consider width of voids so resin doesn't heat up too much while curing. For those with lighter wallets the discontinued Autodesk 123D has a similar methodology to Onshape (albeit less features) and saves to local disk. Really complex forms can be made by combining shapes and 'subtracting' them from the main part.
Thanks Michael. Small hint: Instead of two separate extrusions to form the nut and bolt pockets in the clamp you could have used the "second end position" option in the first cut to leave material where you want it. Keep it up!
Good content. The problem I have with parts under tension/compression is PLA always creeps so the screws loosen. I have better results with PETG and ABS.
Yuo could try metal insert theards
@@noway8233 It will still creep
Love all your how to videos. Especially the ones using free services. Thanks for everything.
Also the 13 year old boy in me had a good giggle at the phrase trapped nuts. 😂
i love this series man it helps me to understand how a part is designed
Dang! So good, just brilliant! I cant wait to learn this craft & these techniques!
The tip on the bracket design aboujt perimeters is brilliant. Having all those perimeters accros the cross section would definetely be stronger and cheaper/faster. Thanks for the video!
You could add magnets to the shelf and the boxes to reduce wobble and still be able to easily remove them in case you need to take them somewhere
Thanks for the tutorials! I've been learning from them. I had been using Fusion 360 for 4 years and switching to OnShape with your help! Thank you so much!
Thanks!
I design and print alot of these types of parts at work. I like to use a honey comb pattern similar to your cross hatch pattern. I have found that printing parts with patterns like this does not actually save any filament or print time. Yes you are reducing the volume of the part but you are adding a lot of material in shells (perimeter layers) that would not have existed if you printed the part without this pattern. However I am in full agreement that patterns like this will make the parts much stronger. I often size the gaps in my patterns as a 2x interval of my nozzle size (2.4 or 3.6 or 4.8mm for a 0.6mm nozzle)... this way the pattern is printed without any infill and is made entirely of shell layers. Very nice video.
for the fixture holes in the tray: OnShape has a function to drill Holes. Just put points on the sketch for the centers of the holes, dimension them, and use the drill function selecting them all and setting the drill function to flat bottom countersink. this way you could change the holes to a different size all at once if what you picked was too small/big
short story go to 15:30 , created grid pattern so there would be more perimeters instead of infill.
Great walkthrough of the process
Great that you talk about the layer line straight and the slicers ability to make the parts STRONG
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
Thanks again for the great tutorial mike!
Thank you ! My 3d design skills are improving dramatically faster than I was expecting 😀
nice. practical prints are my favorite prints
Awesome tutorials Michael !
Analysing how much stress a simple cantilever deflection will create is useful. People seem to make things thicker, or thinner, until they stop breaking, so being able to design to stress of say 40% of breaking in a deflection problem can save lots of trial and error. The equations I use are for a cantilever of length l, width b, height h, deflection y, stiffness E, then the force at the tip of the cantilever is 0.25*E*b*y*(h/l)**3 and the maximum stress is 6*force(E,b,h,y,l) * l/(b * h**2). Generally one twiddles b, h, and l, the other variables y and E being fixed by geometry and material constraints, until force and stress are OK.
Another excellent tutorial.
Big fan of the channel! I think you'll wanna check out the "lighten" featurescript, it'll make doing the triangulated features much easier. I use this for lightweighting CNC cut caravan walls and it saves a lot of time.
Nice job. Only criticism is that triangles are stronger than squares.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Very pragmatic and informative video series, with great insights.
I really enjoyed this video and learned a lot of good tips. I made a first version of the drill press collar and no way was it going to "stretch' over the drill press column. So, I made a slight modification to your design that worked for me. I split the collar in half, added a place for bolts on the other side, and now have a 'hinged' part that works great. (Wish I could add a couple of pics.)
if properly designed as you did Michael, then it is simple and efficient. 100% satisfaction.
14:00
You could've used the trimming tool and drag across any unwanted lines, turning the patterned shapes into less total geometry to select tediously.
(At least, that's what I do in Fusion 360)
1st try with onshape, didn't like it, 2nd try, followed the video, created the domino, 3rd try, created my own part independently. Seeing the benefit and starting to like onshape. Thanks for the series, easy to follow ( though a little quick in places ) detailed and clear. I am learning a lot, Matter Control was the only tool I've used so far and I can see this has more capability. Can you cover text and fonts please! 👍👍
This is a great series!
Excellent tutorial - keep em coming and THANKS!
I am not an OnShape user; I use Fusion 360. But what I believe is outstanding about your design videos is that they have excellent instruction and information for 3D printed part design that is relevant to designers no matter what CAD software they are using. I will look forward to more of your design videos.
Great walk through of the design process! My only concern is the use of PLA, which will creep over time and mean the parts that are under stress will loosen off.
For the wobble, could you make a border, either through 3d printing (Though I would feel like that is a waste.) or from scrap wood, around the base of your drill press where it meets the floor. Print, or make small spacers to lift the base up just a bit. Seal the border to the floor with hot glue, and fill with silicone with the press in place to make a rubber base for it to sit on,. That should aid in stabilization and vibration reduction?
Are you planning any topology optimization or generative design tutorials in the future?
Michael, you're just awesome man, thank you 🔥🔥🔥
There is an easy way to reduce the wobble of the drill press. Put high strength double sided tape under the feet. You can add extra layers to take up any unevenness of the floor if you want. Otherwise, just having 3 points attached works perfect for a steady base. For tape, I recommend the 3M extreme mounting tape (30lbs/sq inch). just make sure everything is clean of dust, dirt, and oil before applying. Best of all, if you want to move the drill later, you can just use a little acetone to get the tape to release.
Great series. Recently picked up a 3d printer and I am going to try and make a flag pole holder for a pirate flag for my kids den. Any tips on making an angled hole would be amazing as I am stumped trying to get the hole to follow the hypotenuse of a triangle. Keep the videos coming.
Edit the sketch with the hypotenuse line and draw a construction line at 90deg to it (or in next step you can use an existing solid line that’s at 90deg) close sketch
Make a new plane to draw on and choose that line for the base of that plane
you can now sketch your circle for the flag pole on that new plane at the correct angle
Good stuff, thank you for sharing and educating us 👍
With regards to the clamp and the flex/strength tradeoff - the easy solution would be to make it two-part (connect on both sides of the circle: the other connection can be modeled for as a permanent. You wouldn't be constrained by the outward flex, when putting it over the column, hence, one could use higher fill percentage
Great vid, so thanks. Interested in how you got the chamfer on the clamp bolt head holes (11m38s). I have a hairpin shape sweep running through a part to enable cord to be threaded in-round-out. I cannot get a chamfer or fillet where the "tunnel" exits the rounded piece.
does onshape not have c’bore hole features instead of two extrusions? …love your videos keep up the great content!!
For anyone needing calipers, the neiko ones linked are excellent, but I have a brand called vinca that is the same price, that I've compared to a nice set of gage blocks and a mitutoyo set of calipers that was several hundred dollars, and I was getting exact same measurements out to the thousandth of an inch,
Brilliant, thanks!
You could have used an additional mounting point in your design which would significatly improve stability. On the left to the red surface are 2 bolts. You could have used one of them as well.
Also the Bracket could be way thicker than 7mm. You could have used a "go pro" style mount at the clamp and therefore mounted the bracket on multiple contact points.
Found youo today. Great videos. I would like to see how you craft a screw with thread and nut for 3d printing. I try to figure that out at the moment.
In Onshape, there is a custom feature script called Thread creator that you can add and which will take care of this in seconds. Just create a blank bolt, and then use thread creator to add the threads, it's very flexible
10:15 Even 31% infill is oftentimes overkill in my experience. I rarely go beyond 15% and that almost always works great :)
It is not en infill but the outer layers which are responsible for about 90%-95% of the overall strength. You are absolutely correct.
Only "flaw" i see is where clamp and arm meet don't allow for a secure fit with tolerance. Two ways it could have been done to ensure the clam would be tight and also the arm. First is print as once peace, formed in a ? shape. Second would be to make an insert to the arm for captured nuts then on the clamp allow more room where the nut goes to either fit a socket or wrench, this way you can tighten the clamp onto the arm, then tighten the clamp to the post. OR just jam some shims in there and call it a day 😉
hey man, can you teach us how to design different kinds of gear? specially herringbone gears.
a little tip:when creating the counterbore and countersink holes, better use the Hole feature.
Great Job
Terrific mate
I’m a complete newby to 3d printing and I’m so happy that I’ve stumbled upon your channel here at the very early stages of my journey…. Right now I’m looking to get my first printer the ideas that got me into this means the parts I want to print are Looong. I will need to max out any size that any printer can do and join the “tubes” together, as well as I want to develop Taylor/bespoke masks for festival type wear, I was looking at the anycubic max but I will need to be able to print tpu as well as “tough”/“abrasive” filaments. I am really interested in the magician X pro. Large build size and direct drive I’ve read amazing things and wondering what your thoughts are on it (if you have any??)
Anyway I love the Chanel and please keep it coming mate💯
Great video.
This is a great tutorial, but there’s gotta be a better and less hacky way to introduce supporting perimeters into a structural part. I guess your way works and has a bit of a fun aesthetic, but I feel like there should be a better way aside from something really extra like finite element simulation/optimization or smart infill ala CNCkitchen.
I’d have probably just given it like 5 perimeters and a flat parallel interior wall to add more filament in the loaded direction, but I kinda hate modeling. But then I’d have tried to do something fancy like a blind dovetail to slide the shelf bracket onto the column mount so it’s removable without tools . Or maybe tried to come up with a compliant mechanism to flex and lock the column mount rather than boring bolts (that you have to run out to the store for). Aaaaaaand I would have spent 10 hours on it. Damn it, never mind, carry on
Wait... 10 hours on a part that could have easily been designed in 20 minutes, just because you wanted to try some novel design elements or were drawn to overcomplicate the design? I KNEW someone was looking over my shoulder all these years.
Im curious what the strength difference between the arm you designed and a solid arm. Could make for an interesting video
Fantastic!
@5:56 doesn't onshape support offset extrudes? would make this a single operation like fusion360 instead of a two operation cut and separate fill as done here. even more optimized in fusion 360 would be to do the entire hole as a feature and then just mirror the feature. seems quite limited in onshape here.
awesomely excellent video as always! Idea: a course on making things that can attach to alu extrusions.
Great video my dewd
I am kinda sceptical about the strength-claims for the bracket: Have you tested or simulated any of that?
Cause sure - outer perimeters are stronger, but that is cause of 2 reasons of which neither apply here: The material furthest away from the center has the most impact on strength, but the pattern is in the middle of the section - the part with the least stress (see i-beams). And for the high strength the printed material needs to be continuous lines, but the way it will be printed it means they are all just independent rectangles that are not connected.
I would guess that the bracket would likely have been stronger if left solid with a bit more infill, and that at shorter print-times and less material used. And another option would have been to increase the thickness of the beam like with an i-beam - as the top is already thicker to connect to the tray it would only need a few extra mm on the bottom.
But it likely will last long enough anyways.
Great video 🤩 !! Thanks a lot Mickaël 😀
This rack is a nice project, i do a lot of identicals projetcts for drawning materiels, i have to say i do more prototypes 1.5mm thick on the faces which requires précision (to fit tools for example). Then i rectify the measurements, apply some printing rules and print the final piece.
Thick prototypes saves time and filament 😉👍.
Can you do a strength comparison between the solid and the latice versions of that part? Assuming the same slicer settings I can't see how the lattice version is stronger.
Nice
if the pedestal drill is on uneven flooring, why wasnt printing a balancer base for it, almost priority one so it wouldnt wobble?
You can offset an extrude instead of removing the entire way through and adding back material.
Make a pedistol in the floor out of uv resin. If you really wanted to be fun you could make a box in the floor with your printer and then pour resin into it then place the drill on top of it. It's only semi permanent but should hold a little drill in place.
Yes, trapped nuts, very painful :-)
Excellent video with valuable information - thank you! Which printer did you use for this project?
Why criss cross cutout? The infill is the same shape. With the outer shell it is even stronger than the one with the cutout. Check CHEP and Makers Muse videos on the matter.
FYI Cutouts are made to have less material usage with CONVENTIONAL production methods. Additive manufacturing lets you have less material usage with the same strength of the final part
Agreed. This is an example of where additive manufacturing doesn't have to abide by all the constraints we have in conventional production. Additive doesn't necessarily require elements like reinforcement webbing, draft angles, and so many other things.
can I ask the mechanical engineers,
would a hinge be better on the clamp, rather than forcing it around the pillar?
I'd prefer not to stress my parts, or am I missing something?
cheers for any responses
I believe there is an easier way to make the grid in the arm, using boolean logic. You will need to make a copy of the object without any cutouts(full), and one with the 5mm offset cutout(offset). and you will need the grid. First select the union of the grid and full, then join that with the offset version.
Bingo. Also, to avoid having to select all of those interrupted profiles individually, make a pattern of *squares,* rather than lines, and you then have just one contiguous profile to select.
Increase the clamp's grab with foam weather strips (single-sided foam).
If you just made the clamp and support bar the same print, you could have made it thicker and it'd have been plenty strong. Also would fit slightly different bars, rather than be reliant on that 7mm gap.
Spotted your SV04, Do you also have "wood pattern" in Vase mode with 0.6 or bigger nozzles?
This makes me want to go make up a problem to solve. Lol
How did you extrude down for the floor with out the holes?
The head lifts right off a drill press fyi. Couple clamp screws.
could embed magnets in the tray at the front too.
You know that dug out basement is going to hinder you personally and professionally. Assuming you own the property consider ripping the band aid off now and having it dug out, poured floors, block walls etc etc. It’s only a matter of time before everything metal starts rusting as it doesn’t even look like there is a vapor barrier down.
I’ve worked in a lot of those basements as an HVAC tech in a historic town near me. The difference is amazing once someone has them “finished”.
Been considering designing something like this for my 3D printer, though I have been having a bit of issues with a new stepper motor I got recently skipping steps..(tried changing the voltage multiple times with no success).. maybe I got a faulty one 🤔
Just a tip for design to keep in mind for some rookies, this collet design is great because it can be install just by lifting the head of the drill (lightweight) or remove the post. If that drill have been heavy weight and cannot be unmounted or removed, it will be a good idea to split the assembly ring in two parts for more practical time saving assembly. Thanks for tutorial.
I love your f1 shirts haha
You rock.
My mans here is yellin "Yabba Dabba DOOOOO" When he drills.. Probably renting a space from Dino in the cave.. LOL
14:45 you extrude the bracket and the holes exist, then in the next shot they are gone, how?
Very spiffy. Forcing the printer to lay out the plastic the way we want ti to is very tricky. Nice use of geometry and placement to get it done.
I got those same calipers today, their nice and cheap
Can we start a "design for 3dp" wiki where we collect all the tips and tricks for all the different kinds of joints and functionals features? It would be awesome to have website that everyone could share a guide on how to design a specific feature and everyone would know where to look up for tips when stuck in a design process. Would be so much easier than looking up tens of videos just to find that one tip somewhere inbetween the 20 min vids
Awes(me dood! So awesoome Micheal!!
Thanks