Some do it for the few bucks you save, I do it myself because a numb nuts at express oil left my drain plug loose. Never again. The “Stealership” is actually not that much higher than the quicky place, but it’s half a day of my life to get it done. Plus… I like doing it myself. Good job on the video.
I hear you. 👍 Just did my sister's '17, she's been having quicky lube or stealership do her services. Found - 1 of 4 shield bolts missing, the plastic nuts for sheet metal screws were stripped and the filter was so tight that the cap cracked when I removed it ( yes, I used the correct tool with notches and held it square). BTW, I am retired fleet service. that means I try to do it right the first time because it is very likely I'll have to fix it later if I don't.
Thank you! This video is so clear and precise, gave me some tips for what I did wrong last time. I also appreciate that you just got right to the job without a lot of introductory talking, lol!
I really appreciate that feedback, and I'm glad to hear it's found helpful! I wanted to make a video that I would also find helpful without all the filler bs. Thanks for watching!
There are torque specs for the drain plug, the filter housing, and the filter housing drain. If you can't get the drain off of the filter housing without the filter housing spinning, it is because you are putting the housing drain plug on too tight. Drain plug: 30 ft/lbs Filter housing: 18 ft/lbs Filter housing drain plug: 9 ft/lbs
Dad built engines for 40+ years, I was there with him for 25 of those, along with my time as a Navy mechanic. Run that drain plug up flush, then tighten it 1/2 turn, or 180 degree turn. NEVER has one leaked doing that. What pisses me off are these jiffy lube type places that want to overtighten the hell out of it with an air wrench. They're the guys that ruin drain plugs and oil pans.
Certainly did... Streamlined yet relaxed, relaxed yet to the point, way to go, and thanks for the tips on the tools. I think I'll go get a lemonade now. Cheers and great job!
Just take the canister off the hell with the drain plug in the filter. Change the big o ring and filter and screw it back on. Oh and that splash pan sucks ass.
1) Cut hole in skid plate, 2) Get spin-on adapter and install. 3) Drain oil and refill. 4) Drink a cold beverage and know you saved a bunch of rags, brake clean, and time for the rest of the long life of your Toyota!
Toyota needs to slap itself for not putting an access panel in the cheapo "skid" plate. And for those of you have taken your truck to a shop for oil changes and you DIY for the first time, you will discover that somewhere along the way the shop(s) has lost 2 or 3 bolts; and at least one or two of the cheapo plastic screw retainers for the three plastic bumper ears. Which is why folks like me and Mr. Tuner do it our/himself - because they want it done right. The first time I removed the cheapo plastic filter housing, it was torqued on so tightly I had to use an impact wrench to break it loose which caused a tiny crack and so I had to find a replacement housing - which the local Toyota dealer wanted $195 for and I bought a better one (metal) at Autozone for $31, I don't know whether Toyo engineers were trying to cheap out with the plastic thing or if they figured some dumbass is going to over torque it and when they do, better it be damaged than the housing it screws in to.
Around the 1950s auto makers came up with this fabulous idea of the spin-on oil filter. It worked just fine, no need to move away from it! For some idiotic reason that I can't comprehend, Toyota (and a few other manufacturers) decided to GO BACK to the canister-style oil filter element from the pre-50s era. There is absolutely no reason why that filter on the Tundra couldn't be a simple spin-on filter... And folks, don't waste your time trying to get the EXACT oil level, like it's a science. There's nothing wrong with being a smidge over. Yes, you don't want to be a quart or more over, but you're not going to hurt anything simply putting 8 quarts in a 7.4 or 7.9 capacity engine.
Back in 07 I bought a new Tundra. First oil change I took it to the dealer. They messed up and oil was spraying out around the filter as I drove home. I didn't realize it until I left for a trip a few hours away. I heard knocking and pulled over. Oil was everywhere! The dealer came and picked up the truck and gave me a loaner. I made them give me a 100K mile engine extended warranty. Still have the truck and it has 145,000 miles on it. Thanks for the video. I plan on changing my own now to save money. I would have done it back then but I found out about the special tool and the skid plate removal and. lost interest.
That's wild, but not the first time I've heard a story like that! Luckily, these trucks are just built incredibly well. Glad to, thanks so much for watching, hope it helps!
I actually agree with this type of oil filter. I think you can control the quality of the filter much better, You can inspect it when you change it as well. Yeah its a pain but at least its easier to change than my old 2004 Tacoma with the 3.4L V6.. That was a nightmare even though it was a spin on. . The angle was horrendous.
Yeah I don't hate this either, it's really not been problematic for me. Only time I had an issue was on my Scion when a dealership overtightened the filter housing and then had to break it off and replace it .
@@BrunerTuner Yea mine unfortunately has been stuck on! I even used a cordless impact and no luck so I just use the drain valve and get out as much as i can
Yeah the Toyota eco friendly oil filter thing can be a pain lol! It's the same way on my Scion TC. Thanks man, sure appreciate it!! LOL right?! Gonna slam my head into the oil pan by jumping 🤣
Like your truck! Bought mine used with 21k miles now at 101,000mi. Put an AFE intake on my 2007 5.7 Tundra 4x4 with 3/1(Skyjacker adjustable struts 3inch lift & rear BilsteiN shocks with 1 inch block) leveled. Same stupid internal oil filter. Can't beat the dealership cost $50 total oil & filter with their $10 coupon since has 7.4 qt. & using 5w-20 semi synthetic. Messy and I always watch em and check level myself in parking lot, LOL they use brake cleaner too. My 2012 Toyo Rav4 (37k miles) has 4.6 qt. same stupid internal filter, however, always buy Toyota filter and do myself with Honda semi synthetic 5W-20 oil since have 2007 Honda Accord 185K mi. (same 5w-20) & Honda dealership has 12 qt. case of oil less expensive. 2006 Tacoma 4x4 with 301,000 miles do myself w/ external Toyota filter & Pennzoil 5W-30 semi synthetic (5qt. inexpensive thru Walmart delivery). Keep on Trucking and Motorcycling!
Thanks man! Yeah I absolutely understand why people do the dealership route, it's so cheap and easy to have someone else do it. I just enjoy doing it myself for some reason. LOL at the guy that was upset about using brake cleaner on the filter housing..thanks so much for watching, and enjoy your truck and bikes as well!!
I am 45, changed my oil and filter on every car/truck I have ever owned. Never looked like this, WTH is going on? I have a Tundra, new to me, is this guy high? or did Toyota totally mess up something so easy? Brake cleaner, a corrosive detergent in your oil system? Are you on drugs? Oil has viscosity. Detergents break down viscosity. You are high.
Lol, not sure what's going on with this comment..you realize brake cleaner fries almost immediately, right..? Not like I went to the oil fill cap and shoved a can of brake cleaner down its gullet 😂 gimme some of your smokes
They went with a canister filter system instead of the traditional style. He was just cleaning off the inside tube. I don't see the harm since it evaporates quickly and gets wiped away. We are talking nearly 8 qts. of oil in the system vs. .02 microns of brake cleaner residue left over LOL. I think we have bigger things to worry about like up to 10% ethanol in our fuels. It's just my opinion though :D
I'm feel blessed to have my 2020 tundra trd pro, with the trd skid plate, which has an access panel for the filter so I don't have to remove the whole skid plate
ota dealer here told me there is no dipstick or way to change it unless you hook a pump up and rig a way. Dealer told me my 2008 and other Tundra they say the fluid is supposed to last the lifetime ..never seen that before but that was what they said when I asked how much to change it.
Mine was torque so tight that I had to put the canister in a vice and use an impact wrench to remove the drain cover. Tried an impact driver at first but it wasn’t strong enough
The filters come with a drain valve saving that mess. Look at the instructions that come with the filter. You do not need to remove the skid plate. If you do it's a real pain in the butt to reposition it. Remove the 10 & 12 MM bolts, and just lower it with its hooks still in the core support. You can support the bottom if you like. Get yourself a container with a handle on it to drain the filter. I have a 32 Oz container, works perfect. A 1.1/16" socket on the filter remover makes removing and installing the filter easy.
I really need help here I have 57 liter how I know the right level on dipstick cuz on face the oil on the right point which is the second i turn on other face on dipstick I found the oil above the second which way is the right way!!! Plz
If the housing comes off there is no need to remove the drain tube off afterwards. I haven’t replaced that on my gs460 (Toyota 4.6) in over 100k miles. Zero issue. Just spin off filter hosing, put new large o-ring on and new filter. Reinstall. Done
No, you never want to pull the dipstick while it's running. check it cold, and then check it after the truck is hot, then turn the engine off and make sure you're at an acceptable level.
Man, the Oil Filter housing plug is to pre drain and avoid the mess you had when you loosened the whole assembly, also you don’t need to change it if you didn’t use. 😂
Yeah pretty sure I mentioned that in the video. And yes, you do need to change that o ring , it's just like any other rubber component. Just because you don't use it doesn't mean it's not prone to aging
The O-ring is rock solid good for 150k, easily. Same material as your valve cover gaskets and you don’t need to replace those every oil change. I NEVER replace that small o-ring because I never take it off.
The reason the entire oil filter comes off when you try to remove the drainbolt on the housing is because during a previous oil change torque specs were not followed. The drainbolt should only be half as tight as the oil filter cap. You don't need tools to remove the o-ring ruclips.net/video/3R1KMN1ys3A/видео.html
Yep. Everytime I either buy a second hand Toyota it's overtightened lol. I didn't even bother taking it off the last time I did the change, right after I got the truck.
Take it to the dealer. I’ve owned my 2012 Tundra since new and this is first time I’m changing the oil. Outside of oil changes and dealer recommended services no issues at all. The oil change process is super easy but you will not escape the mess. At the end of the day, you may save a few dollars doing yourself. In my case, I lost a shirt due oil spill when draining the filter. Save yourself time and mess and let someone else do it.
"Take it to the dealer 🤣" So instead of saving an ass ton of money and doing it CORRECTLY, he should take it to the dealer because it is "too messy" for you. Wow man. The more you do it, the better you get at it and will make less of a mess. I put cardboard down under my vehicles and for the most part not a drop of oil touches it. Not because I am billy bad ass...but I have just done it over and over through the years.
@@CrowT I'm 47 and I've always changed my own oil. I have a 99 Lexus LX470 with 300K and a 2015 Tundra both rigged out for overlanding - I've always done my own oil changes but now live in a place where it's more difficult. The few "extra" steps like going to buy the oil or ordering it/crawling under the vehicle multiple times/transporting the used oil to the local auto parts house used to be less of a hassle, but now with all my work etc. I don't have as much time. Some people including myself get to the point, physically and financially, where it's worth the money sit at my very nicely appointed dealership, sip cappuccino, and watch TV. They usually even wash it. (I won't take them to quicky places. I am very dealer specific and there is only one here in DFW I will take it to.) If I didn't have a dealership that I've built trust with, I would still be doing my own. Some people just get to the point where every last thing is not about saving a dime. The time is more valuable.
@@thebigempty_5792 Not being able to do an oil change because of situations outside your control is one thing. Being lazy and using piss poor excuses like "I got oil on my shirt" is another. At the same time....it is YOUR money. Do with it what you will.
![Cody Johnson - I'm Gonna Love You (with Carrie Underwood) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yy9PuYMU29g/mqdefault.jpg)
Some do it for the few bucks you save, I do it myself because a numb nuts at express oil left my drain plug loose. Never again. The “Stealership” is actually not that much higher than the quicky place, but it’s half a day of my life to get it done. Plus… I like doing it myself. Good job on the video.
Agreed and well said 👍 thanks man!
I hear you. 👍
Just did my sister's '17, she's been having quicky lube or stealership do her services.
Found - 1 of 4 shield bolts missing, the plastic nuts for sheet metal screws were stripped and the filter was so tight that the cap cracked when I removed it ( yes, I used the correct tool with notches and held it square).
BTW, I am retired fleet service. that means I try to do it right the first time because it is very likely I'll have to fix it later if I don't.
Painful to see them lose that hardware and skip steps!
I do it because the last people I paid to do it, left my oil filter on not even hand tightened.
Have heard a lot of stories like that!
Would be nice if someone would address replacing the skid plate. That seems to take longer than the rest of the project.
It really does, I have it
Thank you! This video is so clear and precise, gave me some tips for what I did wrong last time. I also appreciate that you just got right to the job without a lot of introductory talking, lol!
I really appreciate that feedback, and I'm glad to hear it's found helpful! I wanted to make a video that I would also find helpful without all the filler bs. Thanks for watching!
There are torque specs for the drain plug, the filter housing, and the filter housing drain. If you can't get the drain off of the filter housing without the filter housing spinning, it is because you are putting the housing drain plug on too tight.
Drain plug: 30 ft/lbs
Filter housing: 18 ft/lbs
Filter housing drain plug: 9 ft/lbs
Dad built engines for 40+ years, I was there with him for 25 of those, along with my time as a Navy mechanic. Run that drain plug up flush, then tighten it 1/2 turn, or 180 degree turn. NEVER has one leaked doing that. What pisses me off are these jiffy lube type places that want to overtighten the hell out of it with an air wrench. They're the guys that ruin drain plugs and oil pans.
Hope this is found helpful by the Tundra Community!
Certainly did... Streamlined yet relaxed, relaxed yet to the point, way to go, and thanks for the tips on the tools. I think I'll go get a lemonade now. Cheers and great job!
@@frenetic1000 good on you, enjoy that lemonade!!
Just take the canister off the hell with the drain plug in the filter. Change the big o ring and filter and screw it back on. Oh and that splash pan sucks ass.
1) Cut hole in skid plate,
2) Get spin-on adapter and install.
3) Drain oil and refill.
4) Drink a cold beverage and know you saved a bunch of rags, brake clean, and time for the rest of the long life of your Toyota!
I like the way you think!!
Please clarify what you mean by spin on adapter.
The oil filter wrench that I used, it's listed in the video description.
I love this truck! You did a good job on the picking out the wheels/tires and good job on the oil change! Maybe I can do it next time
Well, it is your truck, so I'd expect nothing less!
I did mine myself after letting Walmart do it and the put the fucking housing drain plug on way too tight… it was so aggravating
So frustrating. Definitely do it yourself and never look back!
I always add 7.2 litres of oil, never failed me. corolla is 4.2L.... again never failed me. I can change oil in both with my eyes closed now.
what if u dont have a vice and cant get that inner piece off the oil filter???
You don't need to change that o ring unless it's leaking. I like to, but if it absolutely won't move, I'd just not bother with it
Perfect video. Thank you. To the point, no waste of time talking needlessly. Perfect!
The type of video we all like to see! You got it, thanks for watching!
Toyota needs to slap itself for not putting an access panel in the cheapo "skid" plate. And for those of you have taken your truck to a shop for oil changes and you DIY for the first time, you will discover that somewhere along the way the shop(s) has lost 2 or 3 bolts; and at least one or two of the cheapo plastic screw retainers for the three plastic bumper ears. Which is why folks like me and Mr. Tuner do it our/himself - because they want it done right. The first time I removed the cheapo plastic filter housing, it was torqued on so tightly I had to use an impact wrench to break it loose which caused a tiny crack and so I had to find a replacement housing - which the local Toyota dealer wanted $195 for and I bought a better one (metal) at Autozone for $31, I don't know whether Toyo engineers were trying to cheap out with the plastic thing or if they figured some dumbass is going to over torque it and when they do, better it be damaged than the housing it screws in to.
Just did this myself for the first time using your video. Thanks for posting this!
You're so welcome! Glad it helped
Oh I'm DEFINITELY changing my mf oil
Oh FUNK YA
Around the 1950s auto makers came up with this fabulous idea of the spin-on oil filter. It worked just fine, no need to move away from it! For some idiotic reason that I can't comprehend, Toyota (and a few other manufacturers) decided to GO BACK to the canister-style oil filter element from the pre-50s era. There is absolutely no reason why that filter on the Tundra couldn't be a simple spin-on filter...
And folks, don't waste your time trying to get the EXACT oil level, like it's a science. There's nothing wrong with being a smidge over. Yes, you don't want to be a quart or more over, but you're not going to hurt anything simply putting 8 quarts in a 7.4 or 7.9 capacity engine.
The odd thing is, I used to own a 1st gen Tundra, it used a spin on oil filter. But not the second gen, go figure?
Toyota seemed to change up a lot of vehicles to this canister style one in the late 2000s!
Back in 07 I bought a new Tundra. First oil change I took it to the dealer. They messed up and oil was spraying out around the filter as I drove home. I didn't realize it until I left for a trip a few hours away. I heard knocking and pulled over. Oil was everywhere! The dealer came and picked up the truck and gave me a loaner. I made them give me a 100K mile engine extended warranty. Still have the truck and it has 145,000 miles on it. Thanks for the video. I plan on changing my own now to save money. I would have done it back then but I found out about the special tool and the skid plate removal and. lost interest.
That's wild, but not the first time I've heard a story like that! Luckily, these trucks are just built incredibly well. Glad to, thanks so much for watching, hope it helps!
Love the Mr2 in the back. I just sold my turbo not too long ago. Miss it so much :(. Have a tundra now which I love too haha
Awh man, I probably should sell mine but I can't bring myself to! Haha yes the tundra is awesome as well, I love mine too.
I actually agree with this type of oil filter. I think you can control the quality of the filter much better, You can inspect it when you change it as well. Yeah its a pain but at least its easier to change than my old 2004 Tacoma with the 3.4L V6.. That was a nightmare even though it was a spin on. . The angle was horrendous.
Yeah I don't hate this either, it's really not been problematic for me. Only time I had an issue was on my Scion when a dealership overtightened the filter housing and then had to break it off and replace it .
I love my good ol 2013 Tundra but my God what a horrible design for the oil filter! SMH
Yeah it's pretty standard Toyota fare, my Scion TC has basically the same thing and I think most of their lineup does now. Fun stuff..
@@BrunerTuner Yea mine unfortunately has been stuck on! I even used a cordless impact and no luck so I just use the drain valve and get out as much as i can
I had that same issue on my TC, the Toyota dealership had to destroy it to remove it, and so I had to buy a new one!
I hate toyotas design for all of this but very nicely done. 😅 the fireworks!! Not cool while under the truck.
Yeah the Toyota eco friendly oil filter thing can be a pain lol! It's the same way on my Scion TC. Thanks man, sure appreciate it!! LOL right?! Gonna slam my head into the oil pan by jumping 🤣
Like your truck! Bought mine used with 21k miles now at 101,000mi. Put an AFE intake on my 2007 5.7 Tundra 4x4 with 3/1(Skyjacker adjustable struts 3inch lift & rear BilsteiN shocks with 1 inch block) leveled. Same stupid internal oil filter. Can't beat the dealership cost $50 total oil & filter with their $10 coupon since has 7.4 qt. & using 5w-20 semi synthetic. Messy and I always watch em and check level myself in parking lot, LOL they use brake cleaner too. My 2012 Toyo Rav4 (37k miles) has 4.6 qt. same stupid internal filter, however, always buy Toyota filter and do myself with Honda semi synthetic 5W-20 oil since have 2007 Honda Accord 185K mi. (same 5w-20) & Honda dealership has 12 qt. case of oil less expensive. 2006 Tacoma 4x4 with 301,000 miles do myself w/ external Toyota filter & Pennzoil 5W-30 semi synthetic (5qt. inexpensive thru Walmart delivery). Keep on Trucking and Motorcycling!
Thanks man! Yeah I absolutely understand why people do the dealership route, it's so cheap and easy to have someone else do it. I just enjoy doing it myself for some reason. LOL at the guy that was upset about using brake cleaner on the filter housing..thanks so much for watching, and enjoy your truck and bikes as well!!
I am 45, changed my oil and filter on every car/truck I have ever owned. Never looked like this, WTH is going on? I have a Tundra, new to me, is this guy high? or did Toyota totally mess up something so easy? Brake cleaner, a corrosive detergent in your oil system? Are you on drugs? Oil has viscosity. Detergents break down viscosity. You are high.
Lol, not sure what's going on with this comment..you realize brake cleaner fries almost immediately, right..? Not like I went to the oil fill cap and shoved a can of brake cleaner down its gullet 😂 gimme some of your smokes
They went with a canister filter system instead of the traditional style. He was just cleaning off the inside tube. I don't see the harm since it evaporates quickly and gets wiped away. We are talking nearly 8 qts. of oil in the system vs. .02 microns of brake cleaner residue left over LOL. I think we have bigger things to worry about like up to 10% ethanol in our fuels. It's just my opinion though :D
@@thebigempty_5792 LOL exactly this, thank you. Couldn't have said it better.
Sweet video! Keep up the great content
Nice, did you use this to change your oil?
I'm feel blessed to have my 2020 tundra trd pro, with the trd skid plate, which has an access panel for the filter so I don't have to remove the whole skid plate
I may need to invest in one haha!
I have a 08 with 193k miles should I change my transmission fluid or flush it out ?
I would certainly change it at the minimum! I need to do it to mine as well.
ota dealer here told me there is no dipstick or way to change it unless you hook a pump up and rig a way. Dealer told me my 2008 and other Tundra they say the fluid is supposed to last the lifetime ..never seen that before but that was what they said when I asked how much to change it.
Forgot to a tool " torque wrench"
Important one!
Mine was torque so tight that I had to put the canister in a vice and use an impact wrench to remove the drain cover. Tried an impact driver at first but it wasn’t strong enough
I had that happen with my Scion TC, such a pain in the ass!
If the hosting spins off there is no further need to remove the drain tube afterwards. Just leave it alone.
Thank you!
Very welcome, and what an honor to have my video viewed by the racing legend himself! Thanks for watching, Randy!
The mr2 in the back 😍
The lemonade bit had me laughing. Great, informative vid; liked and subbed
Hahaha glad you enjoyed that! Thanks so much work watching and subscribing, we've got some really great content coming up soon!
The filters come with a drain valve saving that mess. Look at the instructions that come with the filter. You do not need to remove the skid plate. If you do it's a real pain in the butt to reposition it. Remove the 10 & 12 MM bolts, and just lower it with its hooks still in the core support. You can support the bottom if you like. Get yourself a container with a handle on it to drain the filter. I have a 32 Oz container, works perfect. A 1.1/16" socket on the filter remover makes removing and installing the filter easy.
I really need help here I have 57 liter how I know the right level on dipstick cuz on face the oil on the right point which is the second i turn on other face on dipstick I found the oil above the second which way is the right way!!! Plz
I couldn’t get the bottom part off to change the smaller O ring. I decided not to after trying for an hour. I don’t have a vice.
Some people will wig out after this comment..but honestly, not a big deal!
@@BrunerTunerI’m sure those comments will come. Thanks for the tutorial
You got it, hope your truck continues to treat you well!
If the housing comes off there is no need to remove the drain tube off afterwards. I haven’t replaced that on my gs460 (Toyota 4.6) in over 100k miles. Zero issue. Just spin off filter hosing, put new large o-ring on and new filter. Reinstall. Done
1:23 "Just call me.... Mr... Butterfingers" - UHF
Best movie
Thanks for the vid!
You got it, thanks for watching!
U change da oil
no
Thanks for posting this. I ran out of free oil changes at my dealership and had never seen this setup before. This is very helpful!!
Awesome, glad it helped!! Thanks for watching
Good job 👏
Thanks so much!
Thank you
HATE TO BE A CRITIC
FORGOT TO LUBE O-RING
Why are O rings not mentioned in list of parts needed?
They always come with the filter
Torque?.…...😢😢😢
So check the level with the engine running, correct?
No, you never want to pull the dipstick while it's running. check it cold, and then check it after the truck is hot, then turn the engine off and make sure you're at an acceptable level.
@@BrunerTuner
I'm talking about the transmission oil and it doesn't have a dipstick, it has the same plague as the one in the video.
Man, the Oil Filter housing plug is to pre drain and avoid the mess you had when you loosened the whole assembly, also you don’t need to change it if you didn’t use. 😂
Yeah pretty sure I mentioned that in the video. And yes, you do need to change that o ring , it's just like any other rubber component. Just because you don't use it doesn't mean it's not prone to aging
The O-ring is rock solid good for 150k, easily. Same material as your valve cover gaskets and you don’t need to replace those every oil change. I NEVER replace that small o-ring because I never take it off.
What is the oil filter wrench used? I would like to find one specifically this filter wrench.
I've got a link to Amazon in the description with it!
The reason the entire oil filter comes off when you try to remove the drainbolt on the housing is because during a previous oil change torque specs were not followed. The drainbolt should only be half as tight as the oil filter cap.
You don't need tools to remove the o-ring
ruclips.net/video/3R1KMN1ys3A/видео.html
Yep. Everytime I either buy a second hand Toyota it's overtightened lol. I didn't even bother taking it off the last time I did the change, right after I got the truck.
Best Tundra 5.7 oil change video on the internet! Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.
Very kind comment, I sure appreciate that! You are very welcome, glad it was helpful!
Take it to the dealer. I’ve owned my 2012 Tundra since new and this is first time I’m changing the oil. Outside of oil changes and dealer recommended services no issues at all. The oil change process is super easy but you will not escape the mess. At the end of the day, you may save a few dollars doing yourself. In my case, I lost a shirt due oil spill when draining the filter. Save yourself time and mess and let someone else do it.
To each their own, but I enjoy doing it, and I know that it's done to my level of preference and that nothing was skipped or missed.
"Take it to the dealer 🤣" So instead of saving an ass ton of money and doing it CORRECTLY, he should take it to the dealer because it is "too messy" for you. Wow man. The more you do it, the better you get at it and will make less of a mess. I put cardboard down under my vehicles and for the most part not a drop of oil touches it. Not because I am billy bad ass...but I have just done it over and over through the years.
Right?! This shit made pretty much everyone lol
@@CrowT I'm 47 and I've always changed my own oil. I have a 99 Lexus LX470 with 300K and a 2015 Tundra both rigged out for overlanding - I've always done my own oil changes but now live in a place where it's more difficult. The few "extra" steps like going to buy the oil or ordering it/crawling under the vehicle multiple times/transporting the used oil to the local auto parts house used to be less of a hassle, but now with all my work etc. I don't have as much time. Some people including myself get to the point, physically and financially, where it's worth the money sit at my very nicely appointed dealership, sip cappuccino, and watch TV. They usually even wash it. (I won't take them to quicky places. I am very dealer specific and there is only one here in DFW I will take it to.) If I didn't have a dealership that I've built trust with, I would still be doing my own.
Some people just get to the point where every last thing is not about saving a dime. The time is more valuable.
@@thebigempty_5792 Not being able to do an oil change because of situations outside your control is one thing. Being lazy and using piss poor excuses like "I got oil on my shirt" is another. At the same time....it is YOUR money. Do with it what you will.
Looks like a pain in the ass.. take it to the dealer
It's really easy
It's not difficult if done correctly. It may take a bit longer but it's really not difficult.
That's just laziness
It's just the skid plate that pisses me off everytime i do mine... the rest is easy. Nice vid
You're 1000% right lol. It's bulky, it's awkward, and hard to get into place. Thanks man, appreciate you watching!