How to change transmission fluid on a Toyota Tundra
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2020
- Updated video: • DIY Tundra transmissio...
This is a DIY version of this video that makes this job even easier!
This video:
Steve completes a transmission fluid and filter service on a 2018 Toyota Tundra. All the tools and procedures used are included in the video.
Here’s a link to the Tundra service manual on eManuals online: shrsl.com/4hf61
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To see all of the tools that I use and recommend, visit the Tool Demos store: www.amazon.com/shop/tooldemos
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I just uploaded a new and improved DIY version of this video: ruclips.net/video/TH90IJSgg2M/видео.html check it out!
Ty also to mention I didn't have an inner nylon plug in the 2012 besides that it's exactly identical underneath
Can you simply measure the amount of ATF drained and then replace the same amount?
I have a 2019 tundra with 38k miles on it. I just bought it and it was a company truck only driven 9,000 miles a year before I purchased it. Do you recommend a transmission fluid change now or do you think it can wait a little? Thanks for your advice
@@ChadGGolf Never change your transmission fluid unless it smells burnt or some other issue just add if it needs it...
Best Tundra trans service video I’ve ever watched. Did mine at 25k and plan to repeat at every 50k. I love my 2017 gas guzzling 5.7L Tundra!!
Yes sir! You can’t buy ‘em anymore.
Steve- this is my first time watching one of your video's so as to change Julie's 2015 trans fluid.
AWESOME job simplifying this task... THANK YOU.
I’m so glad! Thanks max torq.
The Tundra has a transmission drain plug and nothing is blocking the pan. That is one sweet diy. Thanks for the video.
Yes it is, reminds me of the old days!
This video is good enough to show in a college auto shop class excellent work
Wow, thanks
Don't forget to run through all the gears while the trany is warming up to circulate the fluid properly. Good video. Also, remember to properly torque the 12 bolts for the trany pan in a crisscross pattern.
Thanks Stinger45, good tips.
and always remove the drain plug before the fill plug.
@@Pepe-dq2ib You mean the fill plug before the drain plug I guess
@@Pepe-dq2ib Remove the drain plug first? what if the fill plug doesn't remove easily and the fluid is drained?
@@Pepe-dq2ib you mean fill plug before drain plug?
Own a 2007 Tundra. Raised hood, ran a clear tube from firewall to fill port....worked great.
Awesome, Kevin. There’s more than one way to skin a cat.
How many quarts did you have to use to refill
@@user-lq9el2hi5g I drained and filled 3 times, put some miles on it. . The last time I drained, refilled and performed the manual procedure to make sure the correct amount was in the system. The truck has 305k on it, run great.
@@user-lq9el2hi5g I used almost 12 gts.
This was very informative. Thank you, your experience is much appreciated.
Thanks, Chris. I’m glad it was useful.
Awesome video! Instead of the drill pump i put the quarts of trans oil in a clean large shampoo/conditioner pump bottle from costco, bought 4 feet of clear tubing from napa and hand pumped the trans oil in.
Wow, that’s a really cool way to save some bucks! Good thinking.
Great video and no rambling, I greatly appreciated that. I assume this is the same for a 2017 tundra 1794 edition. I don't have the fill tool but may get it since the dealer would charge way more than it would cost to buy the tool and parts. Thanks for putting quality content on here.
I appreciate you saying that Ray. It’s not a bad weekend project and yes, yours is almost certainly identical.
As always excellent video tutorial. Thank you Steve!
I appreciate your feedback, Mike. *spoiler alert* I have a feeling you’ll dig the video I have scheduled for Monday.
A $10 weed sprayer from Walmart does pretty well for filling fluids. That's also what I used to make a pressure brake bleeder.
Nice
Great video and camera work. My 07 Tundra is due for this service. I can't help but notice how rust free your Tundra is, mine is so rusty, 14 years old with only 90K.
Thanks, Ian. Yeah rust seems to be the hardest thing to stop.
My 06 land cruiser looks as good as his,206k miles fixing to do a change on it 👌
07 was a bad year for rust with tundras
excellent informative tutorial, thank you !
Thank you! I appreciate your feedback.
It's not unusual for the drain pan bolts to break when removing them leaving an unhappy guy in his driveway. My advise is pull the drain plug but dont drop the pan. The "filter" is actually a strainer which means it only catches large pieces of material. Doesnt need to be changed. Just do a regular drain and fill annually once you get to 50,000 miles or so.
Also always make sure you can remove the fill plug before you pull the drain plug. It sucks if you drain the fluid and cant refill it.
Good advice, Charles. Thanks.
Can i do drain and fill at 90k miles without replacing the filter?
Every 50k miles I should do this ??
@@mr3wreckinball797 Certainly.
Thank you for the information. I did this job myself within 2.25 hours as you showed in your video. The truck had 76K and I was pulling a trailer at times. During the service, I keeping the truck level before you drain the fluids. I feel a lot better doing it myself, after all the only person who cares about the life of your truck is yourself. Teck's today are under a lot of stress with the time and getting things done in a hurry, not doing it right.
For your hand grenade pins, that is a great idea to sell as a safety part. Just ass a red flag strip to the pin (like on aircraft) to alert people not to forget. That is a marketing item to sell!
I’m glad you did it yourself, Michael. Keep up the good work! I love the grenade pin idea - ‘remove before burnouts’ maybe?
It's most likely because there isn't a necessary service for WS fluid on Toyotas, they are a lifetime fluid. Servicing your transmission fluid will shorten the life of your transmission, especially a bad idea if you are hauling.
The reason other technicians didn't want to do the service or wasn't up to your standard, is because your standard is incorrect, the transmission fluid on most Toyotas never needs to be changed.
@@b18tuner5875 That is bad information. Although the current automatic transmission fluids are 'state of the art', they do not last forever. There are additives are depleted, and the fluid itself will become contaminated and deteriorate. You will not harm your transmission by the service done in this presentation. You are removing contaminated fluid, and adding new fluid with fresh additives.
@@b18tuner5875 Your answer is what I fear about buying used. People actually believe it's lifetime when Toyota even recommends this service every 60k miles or 6 years whichever comes first. I will definitely be asking for service records when it's time to buy a used Tundra.
@texasbtc well technically it IS lifetime fluid, any fluid is. It will last until the tranny burns up and that's the lifetime. It'll be a shorter lifetime, but a lifetime for THAT tranny nonetheless. Can't believe people still think new fluid hurts trannys.
2019-2021 tundras unfortunately don’t have a transmission cooler , so no need to push the plunger in for those years. Great video and great job !!
Thanks Matt for your kind comment. You’re right about ‘19 and up Tundras. They have a coolant/fluid heat exchanger now, so I got the last year with a traditional cooler.
I have a 2019. So pretty much it's just a drain and fill? No need to replace anything else?
There’s more tools needed than I thought not worthy for DIYer.
I did a more DIY friendly version: ruclips.net/video/TH90IJSgg2M/видео.htmlsi=Y9zpOD_Y9x6i0LDI
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You’re welcome.
Great video. Next oil change I’ll just do a drain and fill.
Not a bad idea, it’s easy enough and will keep your transmission happy.
Very good video! Thanks.
Glad you liked it.
Only 1 major critique. Great video all together though. **Everyone in salted road states be aware** those pan bolts will be rusted, and have high chance of breaking off in the transmission housing. They'll need to be extracted, or drilled out .. possibly retaped. Start with a center punch marking in dead center of bolt. Then drill with smallest bit, gradually working your way up. 3/16 usually will push the bolt out. Use lots of heat if you have enough bolt to grab with vise grips. Cover internals with aluminum foil, wrap tight except for the bolt you're working on. You can also weld a nut on. Use pb blaster on the pan bolts days prior. You can massage in with a qtip.
Thanks GT, good advice.
@@ToolDemos my uncle broke off 6 bolts in new jersey. And he's a master diesel tech. So it can be a nightmare for someone without much experience.
This is so technical!!
Yeah it is, I made it more DIY friendly here: ruclips.net/video/TH90IJSgg2M/видео.htmlsi=0-g7EagaTTfeEB5w
Very informative. I enjoyed
Thanks, Mike. I appreciate that.
Great video! Thanks. 👍
Thanks Sean, I appreciate that.
Very cogent and concise! Thanks
Glad it was helpful.
Awesome video...thank u
Glad to hear it!
I'm all set to do mine...just a few suggestions: Need torque specs for the drain/fill/overfill plugs as well as the pan bolts. Also, measure how much ATF fluid what you got out and add the same PLUS 1/2 a quart as it will drain out of the overfill when at the right temps. If folks don't have an OBD2 reader that shows tranny temps, they can use a $15 laser temperature gun to get the temp on the pan above the drain plug to get it up to 108 degrees before removing overfill plug. (A master Toyota technician taught me that trick!)
Thanks Colorado. Good luck with your job.
No, you can’t measure fluid temperature by checking the pan temp! Horrible advice, but you go right ahead.
He’s right . My scan tool (Innova pro scan) provides tranny fluid temp and it was consistently 10 to 15 degrees higher than laser gun reader on the pan. If I had used the laser gun method on the pan in this situation i would be under filling. When scan tool hit 103 degrees with the engine idling I opened the overflow plug and closed it at 106 degrees.
Heat gun on the pan is not accurate and not the proper method but hey it’s your vehicle
@@Mike-Olds-1 Yep now I have a scan tool that provides real-time Tranny temps
Great stuff! Thank you for the fantastic instruction. Can you share the brand and model of the pump used to push the transmission fluid back into the engine? Also, how often should this procedure be performed?
Thanks Christopher. That’s a Quickflow drill pump, made by PBT. I made a video for it a long time ago, but still relevant: ruclips.net/video/chcnU2dja9o/видео.html. I recommend a service about every 60k miles. Toyota says for normal driving you never need to - but for severe conditions (dirt roads, towing, hauling) change every 60k.
Great video, thank you!
Glad it helped.
Excellent video.
Thanks Charles.
Thank you so much! I was debating on purchasing a Nissan Titan or a Tundra. Im going with a Tundra!
Awesome! Great choice.
Appreciate the info boss!
Thanks, glad I could help.
Very nice, thank you for posting. Question: wouldn't the thermostat necessarily have to be open once the transmission reaches the prescribed temperature to check the fluid level, therefore rendering unnecessary to lock it open? Thank you in advance for this clarification.
Thanks for your question, Maxwell. Toyota gives us a max temperature for fluid level checks of 113 degrees Fahrenheit. Full operating temp. averages around 175 or 180 deg. which is around where the thermostat opens. So the only way to get an accurate measurement is to pin open the thermostat. Hope that clears it up for you. Happy wrenching! -Steve
Look pretty easy thanks 👍🏽
You’re welcome. Happy wrenching!
Already bought fluids gonna do a drain and fill on my 19 tundra at 48k will probably drop the pan and change filter at 90k. great video!
Thanks, happy wrenching!
great video!
Thanks, Pratik I appreciate that.
Great videos Bub, I’m hooked. You put in a lot of effort with the details, thank you. I can’t seem to find the pump kit and fittings. Any help I’d appreciate it.
Thanks Cory. It’s not available on tool trucks ir Amazon as a kit. I bought mine on tooltopia. Link here: www.tooltopia.com/Private-Brand-Tools-PBT71197-QuickFlow-Transmission-Service-Kit
Great video. I watched your newer video, but I have watched other videos that stated that using an external thermometer isn't as accurate as a scantool. Which scantool did you use in this video or which one do you recommend? I am way overdue on my transmission service. Thanks for the great tutorial!
The tool in this video is a Modis, made by Snap On. I’ve been using a new scanner, made by Launch. Very good tool, made specifically for Toyota/Lexus. It’s not expensive and I like using it. Video here: ruclips.net/video/lQbfb9yv5JM/видео.htmlsi=YoKKZekbkSsWNktS
My 2013 ford f150 6r80 transmission oil fill procedure was a pain. Req to get oil temp above 190 and checking the stick next to the cat converter while running. This overfill port looks much easier to service.
I’ve seen those Fords, John. I think it’s good also that the fluid check temp. here is much cooler. Cheers!
As per a professional, this is not a good idea. Change fluid every 60,000 miles and leave the pan alone. Do not flush this transmission but change fluid only. There are very small particles in the fluid from wear that actually help or support the transmission changing and valve works. If you are one of those that do not change fluid as this truck has been, after 100,000 miles, leave the transmission alone. Toyota makes a bullet proof tranny and does not need a bunch of fluid changing. If you truck is in the rust belt of the US, you are not going to like pulling the bolts from the pan when you have to go back and drill every one of them that broke off. Do what you please but this video will get you in trouble.
And the filter!?
He works for a dealership.. nobody should work on the vehicles but Toyota mechanics..
@@jessebores Leave it alone. If you pull the pan, you will find the filter in good shape. Believe it or not the tranny needs some debris in it to make it work better.
@@callkey I bought my first Toyota in 1984. A little car. Later I had a new 1986, 1991, 1994 pickups, 1992 Toyota van, 1996 Previa van, 2012 Highlander new still have and 2018 Tundra. Of all of these vehicles, I have NEVER had any internal work on engines or transmissions. I keep my vehicles serviced but NEVER pull the pan of any transmission nor have any of them ever had a flush, only drain and fill. So any of you draining and filling the transmissions of any Toyotas and especially flushing is just stupid. To each his own. Jerry Hubbard Irmo South Carolina USA
Thanks very informative
Thanks for your feedback.
Great video! I have a 2016 tundra 4x4 with the 5.7 does this video also cover that year?? I'm planning on doing the samething you did
Hey Mario, all 2nd gen Tundras came with the same transmission options. The transmission in the 2018 that I worked on is the AB60F. If you look on the VIN information sticker on the driver’s B pillar (open the driver’s door to see it) you will get the part number for your transmission. It’s in the bottom-left corner of that sticker. Mine says “A/TM: B02A/AB60F.”
So the AB60 is the main part number - the F means it has 4 wheel drive. If you have an AB60E - it will be 2 wheel drive.
So as long as that main number matches, yes it is the same transmission. The service procedure can be slightly different if you do not have a towing package, though. In that case you will not have a thermostat that you need to lock open, but everything else is identical.
Hope that helps. Good luck on your project.
I did the same procedure except pulled the return line from the cooler and run it to pump out all fluid. Stopped once filled 4 qts and repeated. Stopped as soon as I saw fluid turn cherry red. Knew it then was all changed then. Almost 12 qts total used.
That’s what I call squeaky clean!
Best video on RUclips. Very professional job.
Quick question: what kinda of problems can be caused if that thermostat pin stays in...On my Tundra 07 I noticed that that pin is in...And I don't think that transmission fluid was ever changed...Could that be from the factory.
Thank you.
Was the transmission hot when you looked at it? You could’ve just been seeing it in the open position.
Great video..Gracias 👍
Glad it helped.
Best vidéo. Blessings bro.
Thanks, I appreciate that.
Straight forward IF we have all those fancy tools and ability to ready temps.
Here's a better method for DIY:ruclips.net/video/TH90IJSgg2M/видео.html
Great video. Wonder if you have links to the tools used to fill the transmission fluid? Wonder if the obd2 jumper wire method can be used to adjust transmission fluid level.
Thanks. I have an even better answer. My updated, more DIY friendly video to do this job. Cheaper and easier, should answer all your questions. ruclips.net/video/TH90IJSgg2M/видео.html
Great video (again!) Can you share the toyota part numbers for the strainer and the oring
Thanks Christopher.
Strainer 35330-0C020
O ring 90301-31014
Pan Gasket 35168-34020
Thank you so much for the video, everything was focused, in-shot and well explained. I followed along to do my 06 tundra and everything was the same except for my fill-port location and it seems the 06 doesn’t have an oil-cooler/thermostat. I looked for it but didn’t find it so just skipped that step with the grenade pin. Can you by any chance confirm weather it doesn’t have one or maybe I just missed it? Couldn’t find another video of an 06 4.7L to confirm
Looks like it doesn’t: charm.li/Toyota%20Truck/2006/Tundra%202WD%20V8-4.7L%20%282UZ-FE%29/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/Transmission%20and%20Drivetrain/Automatic%20Transmission%2FTransaxle/Fluid%20-%20A%2FT/Service%20and%20Repair/
@@ToolDemos awesome, thanks!
Great video .. I have a 07 Tundra with a 171K . The trans filter has never been changed on it . I have drained and refilled 3 or 4 times now . The trans runs fine no issues ..Wondering if i should replace the filter with so many miles on it now ?
Thanks for your feedback. It’s great that you’ve been keeping up with fluid changes, that will help your transmission last much longer. That’s because the fluid has a limited service life which is most affected by heat (more heat, shorter life).
It’s good to also clean contaminates from the pan and change the strainer but, at your Tundra’s age/mileage you can run into problems. Mainly, the pan bolts have a tendency to seize in the threads on the transmission case. If those bolts break, you have a much bigger problem on your hands.
My recommendation would be to carefully inspect the transmission looking for signs of corrosion. If it seems okay and you want to move forward, I’d have broken bolt and thread repair tools on-hand before starting the job. Probably also best to have alternate transportation available in case you need it.
The alternative is keep doing what you’re doing, you’ve done well so far.
Thanks for you question, I hope this helps. Happy wrenching.
@@ToolDemos I have ask this? On other channels with no response . So i appreciate you responding . I ask cause I've heard a few horror stories. Of someone doing this plus flushing the trans with high mileage and then start having trans issues. I don't want to flush mine but maybe just do the filter at some point. Thanks for the info 👍
Well done. It does seem the partial replacement of trans fluid is less than ideal, considering there is an alternate method available for those models equipped with the trans oil cooler. Then there are the reports of the transmission pan bolts being somewhat undersized for the application, and corrosion leading to problems with the bolts breaking.
Given the potential of broken Tundra transmission pan bolt heads, it seems to me a poor return for the risk for the average diy'er to use the pull the transmission pan method. Especially when it will leave over half of the old fluid in the system.
On the other hand, there is no risk at all to simply drain the trans pan and then use the "fill the trans - drain from the oil cooler - and repeat" method. It offers the greater benefit of having entirely fresh fluid throughout the trans/torque converter/cooler system.... and nary a concern of having that "oh crap!!" moment some have reported...
Very good observation James. I’m actually in post-production on a fully DIY version of this video. It will hit RUclips before the end of the year.
Can you recommend a video that shows the method you describe? Thanks!
@@benschmolze1266 ...piercedasian has a good video that shows the entire process - ruclips.net/video/cB8MdGgwg68/видео.html
Which small impact grub are you using to remove the bolts. Is it Ridgid? If so which one. I've got a few other Ridgid tools and looking for a small drill and driver but don't want to get one that's too big. Thank you.
Hi steved0x. Yup that’s a Ridgid 18v impact bit driver. I bought it in a set with drill, batteries, and charger.
It’ll zip off most 10mm and some 12mm, but it can’t break loose much more than that.
I like it because it’s light and compact.
Pretty good video
Thanks
Great video! Unfortunately those transmission pan bolts have a very bad reputation of snapping so I personally just do a drain and fill of the transmission every 10k. That transmission filter does not work like an oil filter, its under lower pressure, fluid returning to the pan, theres no reason to ever change it with any normal operations. You drain about 4qts if you just drain the pan, so you're not pull a whole lot more by dropping the pan.
Yup, thanks Joe. That’s all true.
Very professionally done video. Just to clarify: When engine reaches the specified temperature range, do you leave the engine running when removing the fill-level plug and allowing it to drain to the proper level?
The transmission fluid has to reach that temperature range. You can check the transmission fluid temperature with a scan tool or you would have to measure it at the pan. As soon as you start the engine you can pull that check plug but leave the engine running at all times. Once you reach the right temperature you can put the plug back in, then shut off the engine.
@@ToolDemos @Tool Demos one more clarification please... Pin open the thermostat plunger , then use a temperature tool to check the transmission is at 113° and then open up the overfill plug so it drains excess trany oil. Correct?
@@dnaonyoutube yes, that’s about right. I just posted a much better DIY version of this job: ruclips.net/video/TH90IJSgg2M/видео.html I really think it explains it much better, plus there’s a great new and cheaper tool to fill it with. Let me know what you think.
@@ToolDemos its my lucky day THANK YOU
I have a 2016 TRD 4x4 coming up.on 75k miles,I called my Toyota dealer wanting a first full transmission service and there lead technician said the screen is designed to go the life of the transmission? I am a firm believer in having clean screen or filter inside an automatic transmission, I now wonder if I should take it to a local shop instead of the dealer since they will not replace the screen.The cost for just the flush without dropping the pan is $300 at the dealer. I had a local shop years ago for that price did a complete flush and filter for the same price on a Nissan exterra🤔
Wait… he won’t do it? I know they say it’s a ‘lifetime’ component, but they sell them in the parts department. I guess you’d have to take your business to where it’s appreciated.
What year u changing oil. 07 tundra does not have drain plug
Way to stay ahead of the schedule to change out all via pan removal!
Did you go back after the running thru the gears at temp and check level again?
Might want to.
Good video.
I did run through the gears, but didn’t show it. I just finished a special DIY version which covers those details. Watch for it in about three weeks.
Wow, it’s so much simpler compared to the 10R80 where I have to remove the cooler and a bunch of other stuff, not to mention jacking up the transmission itself
Yeah, it used to be American stuff was simple - now Toyota seems much more DIY friendly.
In the video, you say to make sure the oil pan gasket and mating surfaces are clean and dry. Typically, seals and o-rings are lubricated with a light film of the fluid they are going to be retaining. I was wondering what the reason is for the exception in this case? Why do you want the gasket completely dry instead of lightly lubricated?
O-rings are installed into a tube and it slides into place. You don’t want it to tear or roll, so you lube it. This gasket stays in-place, so no need for lubrication. Also, there is a small chance that the lube can introduce a leak path for transmission fluid.
This video was very informative, but what about the transmission fluid that is left in the transmission cooler and the torque converter? I'm not sure how much fluid is in the transmission cooler and the torque converter but I'm guessing it would be an equal amount thus resulting in a 50/50 mix of the old fluid and new fluid. Would that be a correct analogy? To me, if you are going to change the transmission fluid it all should be changed completely. I just did a Google search and it said the torque converter holds approximately 1 quart and I'm guessing the transmission fluid cooler is somewhere between 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart. So my 50/50 analogy may need to be adjusted a bit but I still stand on there being old mixed with new fluid. If it were possible to completely drain the cooler and the torque converter and refill with new transmission fluid then I would consider the transmission fluid actually changed.
You’re right, Charles. Draining the pan won’t drain all of the fluid in the system. Because of that, I like to perform this service well before the fluid is completely trashed (about every 60k miles or so). That way there is a good rotation of fresh fluid. In a system that has been damaged, or where the fluid is burned or otherwise no good, a proper repair is necessary along with a complete fluid replacement.
If you want to do a more thorough job, after your first fill, drive the truck a few miles, then do a quick drain and fill. That will get you to around 75% new fluid.
Toyota does not recommend performing a fluid flush as regular service, so a 100% exchange isn’t available.
Thanks for your question.
Many metal shavings on all of the clutch pack rings and clutch fiber particles all get stuck in the filter
Hello, great DIY. Question...Just bought my '12 Tundra with 35K. I'm concerned about the age of the fluid...8 years. Would that timespan warrant a change? I know oil degrades over time...but ATF?
Hi Bob, thank you. Heat is the biggest killer of ATF, next is dirt or other contaminates. Those happen over miles of use, not time sitting parked. I’d say that your fluid is likely to hold up over time at least as well as the rest of the truck.
Toyota recommends changing the fluid after 60k miles for heavy use or if you run dirt roads. My recommendation is change at 60k no matter what.
Cheers.
Great video 👍🏻 How often is recommended to do this service ?? My tundra has 16k miles i don't drive too much just once a week
I’ve been doing the fluid changes without pan removal lately. So, I went from every 50k down to 30k.
@ToolDemos A .. ok, I'm going to do mine every 30k just to keep fluids fresh .. thanks 👍🏻
NEVER remove the transmission oil pan, especially if you live in the salt belt. If one of those pan bolts break, which they are very prone to do. That is aluminum that you will have to drill out which if not done correctly will cause you to buy a new transmission.
Thanks for pointing that out. I’d hate for anyone to have that issue.
I recently bought a 2013 tundra with the 5.7. It had 112K miles on it and I have no clue if the folks before me ever changed the tranny fluid. I have heard horror stories of transmissions failing on high mileage vehicles after changing the fluid. Do you think I should have this done? Or is it too late or too far gone mileage wise?
Edit: I see you already answered this down below.
Thanks Crow for looking. I think it’s a good answer.
The time I did mine, I drain the fluid and catch everything that came out the pan and measure it and put the same amount back to the tranny. I didn’t even check the fluid level nor turn the engine on. This is another or easier way to do it, just make sure you measure how much it came out.
I like that idea.
Very well done. I have a question. I noticed that after the fill, during warmup and level check, you didn't shift into gears prior to the level check. I've seen others do this. Is this necessary? I have a 2012 5.7L with 95,000 miles. Thinking of doing this myself. Your video is the best one I've seen so far. Just this one question. Thank you.
Hi Tommy,
You are absolutely right about that. I regret not showing it in the video, my mistake.
Inside the transmission, there are small reservoirs that fill with fluid, then push it out to shift gears and operate the clutch. To get the right fluid level , these accumulators (and everything else) should have their regular amount of fluid.
Thanks for bringing this up.
Are all transmisions the same from the 2nd gen? I have a 2012 tundra 4.6l V8 automatic. I'm just want to be sure before ordering the parts that you shared in this video. I'm trying to look it all up now, but figured I'd ask directly too. Thank you for sharing.
I think there were small differences, but are essentially the same. To be honest though, this is the only one I’ve changed fluid on.
@@ToolDemos I appreciate the reply. Yeah, there was one difference that I found. Mine is a 2012 model. When I was looking up the parts on Toyotasparks the filter was slightly different with a variance on the part number. but I was cautious to verify year fitment.
Great f’n video!
Thank you, Greg. I appreciate that.
Hi Steve... just another excellent video you have made ! but then again all your videos are excellent. I want to send you a horror story about a documented Toyota Tundra transmission issue I experienced for years I would like to send it to you privately. Let me know how I can do that. tc barry
Thanks Barry- that sounds cool. tooldemosmail@gmail.com
I’ve only drained and filled my trans fluid.
In the future , Would it be ok to replace the filter on the 2012 tundra if i only did a drain and fill?
It's good to clean contaminates from the pan, around the magnets, and change the strainer (filter) but, at your Tundra's age, you can run into problems. Mainly, the pan bolts have a tendency to seize in the threads on the transmission case. If those bolts break, you have a much bigger problem on your hands.
My recommendation would be to carefully inspect the transmission looking for signs of corrosion. If it seems okay and you want to move forward, I'd have broken bolt remover and thread repair tools on-hand before starting the job. Probably also best to have alternate transportation available in case you need it.
The alternative is keep doing what you're doing,
you've done well so far.
Thanks for you question, I hope this helps.
If you don’t have a scan tool to check the transmission temperature, how long should you wait to bring up to temperature to check the filler bolt ?!
Hi Hector. I’d recommend pulling the check plug right after startup. Measure the temperature of the fluid that comes out every minute and stop before it hits the max temperature spec. Remember, as the fluid heats up, it expands and more will spill out.
Not a perfect solution, but it’ll get you pretty close.
@tooldemos what happens if somebody forgets about the towing package and the extra step? What are some of the consequences that can arise from that? I think that just happened to my truck... That I had service at a shop..
You could have a slightly incorrect fill level. I don’t think it would be much.
Is there another way I can check the optimal temperature when warming up the fluid? I don't have that computer tool to tell me. Thanks!
I tried it with a cheap digital thermometer. You can see how here: ruclips.net/video/TH90IJSgg2M/видео.htmlsi=Eu2DyYKLG_Vcs3-2
any thoughts on amsoil vs. WS? ive always used amsoil in diffs, but never bothered in transmissions, with honda and toyota i've typically stuck with dealer fluid in those! I'm right about 35k miles, I think I need to do a drain and fill, not sure if i'll drop the pan or not, but great video.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate you. Toyota always recommends their own fluids and sometimes (for example differential oil) “or equivalent” fluids. In the case of this transmission, Toyota says “genuine Toyota ATF WS”. There is no substitution given in the manual. I don’t doubt AMSOIL makes good products, but in this case I wouldn’t risk the transmission and strongly recommend genuine Toyota WS.
@@ToolDemos yep, nice to hear you confirm that. especially with a drain and fill i've tended to stick with manufacturer fluid. diffs always Amsoil! Thanks for the time you put in your videos. it hepls and inspires
the DIY community
Amsoil atf makes such big difference in transmission performance that makes Toyota ws atf fluid looking like garbage
@@repairvehicle Prove It
@Tundy , proof on my channel. Thousands of comments from Toyota owners. Also, atf analysis is another proof on my channel.
I just bought a 2019 Tundra TRD with 10K miles on it. Have about 20k on it now. How often should this work be done? Thanks for a great video.
I just finished a better DIY version of this video. ruclips.net/video/TH90IJSgg2M/видео.html If you do it the way that I did in the new video I would recommend every 20-30k miles or so. I know it’s not what Toyota says, but fluid is cheap and transmissions are expensive.
Before anything, loosen the fill plug. If you drain the pan and you can’t loosen the fill plug… you’re in trouble. That goes for any car.
This is a 2 person job and it’s a complete flush. Much better than a drain and fill.
It’s better to use the return line that comes from the trans cooler/radiator into a clear container that’s marked on how much your transmission pan holds.
Drain the pan and re-fill it with the amount that came out. Start the engine and once the container is filled to that mark, shut it off. Keep doing this until it comes out clear.
I think it was around 4 gallons and I use valvoline max life atf that’s around $20 a gallon. works just as good as Toyota ws. Look into it….
Then you use the proper method to check the level. My local dealer tried to charge me $400 for this and a simple drain and fill for $180.
I never understood why people change the filter if it’s just a metal screen inside.
I did it for $80 with my son’s help. Very easy to do and I actually have to do it again now
You’re about 5.7 or 4.7 engine ?
@@genekorin3390 I have the 5.7
Can I use the infrared thermometer for measuring the transmission pan temperature b4 release the fluid correct level?
Sure can. I show how here: ruclips.net/video/TH90IJSgg2M/видео.htmlsi=fZhoQsKG5K4XbHF-
Can you show where the oil cooler return is to do a complete flush?
Hi Brian - My intention for this video was to show the procedure that is in service data. That’s why I’m not showing the flush method. Thanks for your question.
Just finished doing this. 2 of the pan bolts broke. One was on a corner near the drain so I drilled all the way through and put a nut on the end. The other one I just left and it doesn’t seem to be leaking.
I’ve been hearing that it’s a common issue up north. A lot of people are skipping removing the pan, just draining and filling like an oil change.
Awesome can you move to Atlanta please please
Any idea on the Toyota part number for the drain plug washer?
Hi PGV, their part number is 35178-30010. Happy wrenching.
Thanks for this video. My local dealer wants over $450 to do this job so helps me save much needed $$! I don't suppose to you have a link to a resource for that drill powered fluid filler? Cool tool!
Thanks Jake. I bought it from tooltopia. www.tooltopia.com/Private-Brand-Tools-PBT71197-QuickFlow-Transmission-Service-Kit
I wonder if locking the thermostat open BEFORE draining would drain more fluid. Also, good idea to put a red “flag” on that grenade pin to help identify it as something that needs to be removed following the procedure.
Yeah, the ‘remove before flight’ tag.
So when you drained AND removed the pan you measured roughly 6 quarts that came out?
Right, Boneshaker. I didn’t show it in the video, but I emptied the drain pan into 2 empty oil containers and the total amount was roughly 6 quarts.
if you going to replace filter i would take out pressure solenoid cleanup screen at video 4:35 easly you can see those green black blue plug all color coded
What are the part numbers for the gasket and filter please. Thanks
Joey,
These are OE part numbers for the AB60F transmission.
Pan gasket: 35168-34020
Strainer (filter): 35330-0C020
O-ring for the strainer: 90301-31014
Thanks and happy wrenching.
On a 2019 without trans cooler. I have a scan tool that reads transmission Temps. Do I do same procedure except pushing in thermostat?
Right. The cooler on your transmission is coolant from the engine.
Instead of using a pump, I just gravity feed my fluid from the top of the engine. Very easy. Doesn’t the tundra have access from the top of the engine down to the fill port?
No it doesn’t, it’s just the one on the side. I came up with a method to fill without a pump: ruclips.net/video/TH90IJSgg2M/видео.html
I like this video better too.
Where are you located? If you're close, I want to come have you do my '17 Tundra.😊
We just moved to Florida. ☀️
About how long did truck idle until it reached temperature level would you say and did you cycle through gears before it reached temperature asking for a friend! Thanks
When I did the job, it was summer and the shop temperature was close to 90. So, yes I did cycle through the gears and in just a few minutes it was done. Thanks Eathan
I need advice. I have a 06 Tundra with 360k. Oil Change every 4.5-5k miles but Transmission fluid was never flushed or change. Is it still reasonable to just flush and refill or should I just do the entire thing like this video? The place the filter and all.
Before I answer, let me say this. With a transmission that has that many miles on the original fluid, you could be asking for trouble. Sometimes when a transmission is worn out ,the only thing keeping it from slipping is all of the debris that floats inside the fluid. I’ve seen too many times when a high mileage transmission gets its first oil change, it starts slipping about a week later.
To answer your question: if you want to change out as much fluid as possible I would do it in two steps.
1. Drain and fill the transmission without removing the pan.
2. Drive the truck about 10 miles.
3. Do another drain and fill. On this step I would also do the filter change.
This of course is just my opinion. Toyota would only recommend doing the service that I show in the video.
What's your recommendation on how often the change the transmission fluid on a Tundra? Never used for towing and NO dirt roads. How about on a 2015 Tacoma?
Hi DH. For my own vehicles, I change every 50-60k. On a customers car, I recommend 60k intervals, but I will also advise them of whatever the manufacturer recommends, so they can be fully informed.
@@ToolDemos toyota recommends you never change the transmission fluid.
@@hereticleader4187 you’re right, this is a ‘sealed’ transmission and for ‘normal’ conditions, Toyota does not recommend service. For ‘severe’ driving conditions, Toyota recommends this service every 60k miles.
According to the manual, severe conditions include driving on dirt roads, towing, and hauling heavy loads. This truck does all 3 regularly. I appreciate you for adding to the conversation. Cheers!
What gasket is on the drain & fill plug? Oil pan plug gasket? Or the rear diff style?
Drain gasket is a crush type like the diff. The fill, if I remember correctly is an o-ring.
What year is your unit! Working on-Automatic Transmission Drain & Refill 2007 Toyota Tundra Limited CrewMax 5.7L V8 (3UR-FE Engine)RWD
This is a 2018
the torque converter still full of old AFT......three changes and refills over short time is expensive. Suggest disconnecting flow and return from AT cooler and fill and empty from there while running engine and cycling through selector .
That’s a good way to flush all of the fluid.
So let the transmission heat up to to the specific temp. Then take off overfill plug. Until it stops.
Hi Lalo, with the engine running, remove the plug. As the transmission warms up, it will spill more, so wait until the temperature is within the range (104-113) then replace the plug.
You’re not waiting for the flow to stop, you’re waiting for the transmission to reach the proper temperature.
Sorry that I wasn’t very clear. Thanks for your question.
@@ToolDemos how much should spill out? 1/4 of a quart maybe more than half a quart? And about how long until it hits that temperature 1 2 3 minutes?
If I remember correctly, 4 of 5 ounces spilled out and the trans temp went from about 80 to 104 in a few minutes. If you can’t see the data on a scanner, I’d recommend checking the temp of the fluid that comes out with a thermometer. That should get you real close.