I was just shocked from my ender 3 pro making my hand numb for a few seconds, its sad they havent actually fixed this issue yet considering i bought mine recently and i know its been on the market for a while. Nice to see a video with a fix :) gonna grab my gear and get this done asap.
just got my E3 today, one of the first things I did was check ground and replace the entire power cable (got rid of the XT60 connector altogether). Sure enough they handn't tightened down the screw on the PS and it was connecting to the case properly, a few turns and it completed the ground connection
Hello, I've order new cables due to my Xt60 "melting" ... How did you change the cable in the psu ? I see a sort of "crimp" connector. Did you re used it on your new cable, or used new ones or do without ? On the motherboard only screws are needed. Thanks, hope you will get this message :D
I had to troubleshoot a case where someone had a piece of conductive debris rolling around in their power supply. Good conclusive grounding limits the danger to life in such cases. Still knocked out a good bit of hardware though. Check your grounds people.
bought mine on august 2020, the grounding issue hasn't been fixed yet by creality however the faulty counterfiet of XT60 connectors got replaced with XT60H-M and it looks promising
Just did this and my values were around 38 ohms from case to end of power cable..... Loosened the ground bolt on the board, flicked the plastic off and tightened up and now it's very minimal ~(.02ohm)
If I measure to the case of the psu then it was .18 ohms. The measurement your refering to is after several anodized extrusion and blacked screwes fittings. I started with nearly 10 ohms just to the case of the psu.
@Cereal Experiments Completely agree, If I wanted to know the exact measurement I would have pulled over my bench DMM (Keysight True Volt 7.5 Digit with Kelvin measurement capability:) ) but I did not think that kind of accuracy was needed, the meter I used is still a quality Keysight DMM and with a nulled resistance reading I get the ~ 0.2 Ohms, 4 terminal would only serve to lower that even more probably At the end of the day, the readings may well vary depending on the quality if the IEC plug and socket, the materials coating the actual plug, the import mains cable (Aluminium vs actual copper), the level of anodizing / oxidation on the aluminium and the resistance of the screws as they are also coated. With a little work if I really wanted to minimize the ground resistance to the frame I would add bonding wires between each connecting extrusion, the psu case, the actual ground wire (Not via the PCB Trace) etc. I dont think this needs that level of attention.
Many people build an enclosure for their ender 3. Because the enclosure gets hot inside many people decide to separate the electronics from the printer and have only the frame of the printer inside and motherboard and PSU outside. Do you think this could be a problem because the frame itself is not grounded to the PSU? Is it safer to ground the frame eitherway and how woud you go about doing that?
I'm actually doing it that way and just put a ground wire back into the enclosure together with the Stepper, Hotend and Heatbad Cables. It's enough if you put it on a crimped connection screw and somewhere onto the printer frame, to ground it probaly. I'm not sure if it is really nesscary but anyway.. It's not that much work, and you have to open the slot from the PSU anyway to extend the cables and toss the xt60 connectors out of the window.
I'm looking for problem with my 3d printer. My measured psu output is 13,7v? Is that normal? or it's faulty? My nozzle can't reach 180'c whole nozlle is fine- i teste replacement part. So i'm looking for issue- it's either motherboard or psu.
If the PSU is a 24V model then yes, 13.7V is bad, if it is a 12V psu then its ok, a little high but perfectly ok. if the nozzle heater can be turned on and off for heat and it is simply not able to reach temperature, I would suspect the PSU or the thermistor. When at room temp, does the thermistor read correctly ?
@@TheBreadboardca I replaced whiole hotend module with thermistor and cartridge- and it behave the same way, so the problem is either in motherboard or psu.
@@TheBreadboardca Ok, the psu originally had 24v output. I've actually ordered new one. But i will try to repair this one. Now I realised, that recently my printer was suspiciously silent. Turns out iwas faulty psu fan not working!
Yes, that defiantly could be a faulty psu, but a lack of ground would not cause it, as it is the current going through the ground that would cause the gfci to teip
Un-lightly to be a grounding issue but it still could be a faulty PSU, maybe a bad joint that is intermittently shutting down the power supply. does it "Glitch" if you just leave it powered on but no printing, or perhaps try a print without the heated bed (PLA should still work), this would remove a massive load from the power supply to test if it is load related.
@@TheBreadboardca I just did what your video said and what's weird is I got a perfect ground when I touched the multimeter to a screw on the supply but nothing anywhere else. If the printer is not printing it does not appear to glitch ever. but it is uncommon for me to have the printer on but not printing I will try printing without a heated bed and get back to you
@@TheBreadboardca umm the printer does not seem to be rebooting when printing without heated bed I was unable to have printing for not long as the print did not stick without heated bed but it does indeed seem to be working without heated bed what would you recommend that I should do as a fix
@@datrandomdugggy5537 If you have a spare supply, or one from another comparable printer, give it a try. there are still a few possibilities but I would suspect the power supply first as this was the only thing common to printing with or without a bed temp set. the control MOSFET would not cause a glitch nore would anyone of the motor controllers as they tend to shut down if they et too hot and possibly cause layer issues but not shutdown completly the system for a second or so
@@TheBreadboardca umm I don't have a spare supply at all my printer bis still under warranty so that might be my best option I did notice that the supplys input voltage is set to 115 but is drawing 123 don't know I that is a issue or not
most important is that the power supply case is grounded. Due to the way some are mounted, there may not be a direct metal to metal connection to the frame., having the frame of the printer also grounded is an additional bonus and could be easily dont if required with a simple short length of "Ground" colored wire
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I was just shocked from my ender 3 pro making my hand numb for a few seconds, its sad they havent actually fixed this issue yet considering i bought mine recently and i know its been on the market for a while. Nice to see a video with a fix :) gonna grab my gear and get this done asap.
just got my E3 today, one of the first things I did was check ground and replace the entire power cable (got rid of the XT60 connector altogether). Sure enough they handn't tightened down the screw on the PS and it was connecting to the case properly, a few turns and it completed the ground connection
Hello, I've order new cables due to my Xt60 "melting" ... How did you change the cable in the psu ? I see a sort of "crimp" connector. Did you re used it on your new cable, or used new ones or do without ? On the motherboard only screws are needed. Thanks, hope you will get this message :D
I had to troubleshoot a case where someone had a piece of conductive debris rolling around in their power supply. Good conclusive grounding limits the danger to life in such cases. Still knocked out a good bit of hardware though. Check your grounds people.
Good test
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
bought mine on august 2020, the grounding issue hasn't been fixed yet by creality
however the faulty counterfiet of XT60 connectors got replaced with XT60H-M and it looks promising
Just did this and my values were around 38 ohms from case to end of power cable..... Loosened the ground bolt on the board, flicked the plastic off and tightened up and now it's very minimal ~(.02ohm)
Great utility video. Thanks. I left a like and I hope this gets more views and likes.
My power button doesnt light up but power supply powers on no fans work beside the main one on extruder would tgis be the problem
0,8 Ohms is pretty awful. Regulations in Europe specify maximum 0,3 Ohms to the farthest point from the mains connection.
If I measure to the case of the psu then it was .18 ohms. The measurement your refering to is after several anodized extrusion and blacked screwes fittings. I started with nearly 10 ohms just to the case of the psu.
@Cereal Experiments Completely agree, If I wanted to know the exact measurement I would have pulled over my bench DMM (Keysight True Volt 7.5 Digit with Kelvin measurement capability:) ) but I did not think that kind of accuracy was needed, the meter I used is still a quality Keysight DMM and with a nulled resistance reading I get the ~ 0.2 Ohms, 4 terminal would only serve to lower that even more probably
At the end of the day, the readings may well vary depending on the quality if the IEC plug and socket, the materials coating the actual plug, the import mains cable (Aluminium vs actual copper), the level of anodizing / oxidation on the aluminium and the resistance of the screws as they are also coated. With a little work if I really wanted to minimize the ground resistance to the frame I would add bonding wires between each connecting extrusion, the psu case, the actual ground wire (Not via the PCB Trace) etc. I dont think this needs that level of attention.
Many people build an enclosure for their ender 3. Because the enclosure gets hot inside many people decide to separate the electronics from the printer and have only the frame of the printer inside and motherboard and PSU outside. Do you think this could be a problem because the frame itself is not grounded to the PSU? Is it safer to ground the frame eitherway and how woud you go about doing that?
I'm actually doing it that way and just put a ground wire back into the enclosure together with the Stepper, Hotend and Heatbad Cables. It's enough if you put it on a crimped connection screw and somewhere onto the printer frame, to ground it probaly. I'm not sure if it is really nesscary but anyway.. It's not that much work, and you have to open the slot from the PSU anyway to extend the cables and toss the xt60 connectors out of the window.
I'm looking for problem with my 3d printer. My measured psu output is 13,7v? Is that normal? or it's faulty? My nozzle can't reach 180'c whole nozlle is fine- i teste replacement part. So i'm looking for issue- it's either motherboard or psu.
If the PSU is a 24V model then yes, 13.7V is bad, if it is a 12V psu then its ok, a little high but perfectly ok. if the nozzle heater can be turned on and off for heat and it is simply not able to reach temperature, I would suspect the PSU or the thermistor. When at room temp, does the thermistor read correctly ?
@@TheBreadboardca I replaced whiole hotend module with thermistor and cartridge- and it behave the same way, so the problem is either in motherboard or psu.
@@TheBreadboardca Ok, the psu originally had 24v output. I've actually ordered new one. But i will try to repair this one. Now I realised, that recently my printer was suspiciously silent. Turns out iwas faulty psu fan not working!
My ender 3 trips gfci, could this be the cause
Yes, that defiantly could be a faulty psu, but a lack of ground would not cause it, as it is the current going through the ground that would cause the gfci to teip
soemtimes mid way through a print the printer just losed power for less than a second could this be a cause?
Un-lightly to be a grounding issue but it still could be a faulty PSU, maybe a bad joint that is intermittently shutting down the power supply. does it "Glitch" if you just leave it powered on but no printing, or perhaps try a print without the heated bed (PLA should still work), this would remove a massive load from the power supply to test if it is load related.
@@TheBreadboardca I just did what your video said and what's weird is I got a perfect ground when I touched the multimeter to a screw on the supply but nothing anywhere else. If the printer is not printing it does not appear to glitch ever. but it is uncommon for me to have the printer on but not printing I will try printing without a heated bed and get back to you
@@TheBreadboardca umm the printer does not seem to be rebooting when printing without heated bed I was unable to have printing for not long as the print did not stick without heated bed but it does indeed seem to be working without heated bed what would you recommend that I should do as a fix
@@datrandomdugggy5537 If you have a spare supply, or one from another comparable printer, give it a try. there are still a few possibilities but I would suspect the power supply first as this was the only thing common to printing with or without a bed temp set. the control MOSFET would not cause a glitch nore would anyone of the motor controllers as they tend to shut down if they et too hot and possibly cause layer issues but not shutdown completly the system for a second or so
@@TheBreadboardca umm I don't have a spare supply at all my printer bis still under warranty so that might be my best option I did notice that the supplys input voltage is set to 115 but is drawing 123 don't know I that is a issue or not
so the cr-10 frame isnt grounded at all xD fun
most important is that the power supply case is grounded. Due to the way some are mounted, there may not be a direct metal to metal connection to the frame., having the frame of the printer also grounded is an additional bonus and could be easily dont if required with a simple short length of "Ground" colored wire
@@TheBreadboardca Yeah agreed. Will do my test and might add my own ground cable as its dry enough where I live to feel like it should be :D
2022 and this problem exists in my ender 3 pro.