Replacing the stock Ender 3 Power Supply with a Mean Well Power Supply from TH3D
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- Опубликовано: 27 мар 2019
- In this video we go over how to Replace/Upgrade the stock Ender 3 Power Supply with a Mean Well LRS-350-24. It's a 24v direct replacement for the Ender 3, and the same version that the Ender 3 Pro comes with.
A special thanks to Tim at TH3d for giving me a discount on the power supply! I appreciate the support for small channels!
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Thank you man! I just change it. The original power supply died a couple of days ago. Back on track quickly. Took 10 min. Perfect!
Thanks for putting these videos together. They've been a big help!
No Problem! I am glad it's helping!! Thanks for watching!
Replacing my Ender 3 PSU tomorrow. I needed this, thanks dude!!!
Thank you so much for this video. Brought an a8 from online that was partially upgraded and no instructions. Blew 3 fuses in my switch before finding your video. All the wiring diagrams had me placing my positive and negative wires in the wrong place.
No prob! I'm glad it helped!! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the excellent video. I just replaced mine and it was super easy!!!
Replacing mine as soon as a print is done. Thanks for the video. Cant wait for the next hot makes
Awesome! Thanks!!
Thanks for sharing, my new Mean Well is installed and working thanks to you!
Awesome!! I'm glad you got it installed and hope you love it! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video and the link! Just snagged the last one!
Thanks man!!
I just did this upgrade as i was either getting coil whine or the fan was starting to go. Either way i wanted it changed. Got mine off amazon as its cheaper for me in canada and printed the th3d mount. I had to file one of the holes to hold the psu to the mount but everything else was smooth. Also yes make sure to check the psu switch is set to your voltage. Mine was set to 230v so put it back to the 115 or 110v. Thanks for your awesome vids!
Awesome! I'm glad you got to done! Thanks for watching!
No need for mount... just use a whole roll of electrical tape. ; )
The metal screws for the IEC connector aren't grounded in this configuration which isn't great from a safety perspective. I'd use the push-in style IEC connector instead.
Dude! It's so cool that weird Al is into 3d printing!
Thank you for this video - great job. Any idea where we can find the TH3D STL file for the mount? They do not have it on their site anymore.
Do you know wether the fuse is a quick or slow blow 10A 250V? Thanks for the video 👍
Thanks for the video! Is the process the same for the Ender 3 V2? I’d like to extend the power cables so I can mount the PSU outside of an enclosure.
Say "go ahead" one more time, I dare ya :P
Hahaha
ITYM "Go ahead and say 'go ahead' a few dozen more times." HTH, HAND
Nice, was wanting to swap mine out any how to a PSU that does 24 and 12 v to allow me to connect my printer to a standalone mini pc to make the printer self contained, but this guide should work anyway.
Thanks for sharing.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Hi, could someone say me if the fan in the power supply is pushing air outside of the metallic box or pulling air fresh inside to the electronic cars until vertical air vents ?
I'm looking for a power supply thats just more efficient and wont use as much electric money. Would this save me running costs?
My screw heads popped as well on the power switch, but everything else fits perfect. Is there a screw type you would recommend?
So, the only thing we need to do is *go ahead*!
Electrical Tape is your friend :)
Haha yes it is! Thanks for watching!
the fan blow in or out on mean well?
I’m having trouble finding the STL file as well. Do you know where I can find it?
What print settings did you use? I downloaded and sliced the STL but print is coming out really bad! Very flimsy walls, almost like it's under extruding... but I just installed a dual geared extruder and calibrated e-steps... so frustrating I can't get this to print...
It's now the second motherboard in my Mingda Magician X, that is causing errors after some months printing. I'm really questioning myself. Is it the PSU? It's a ZL-360-24.
The big question is - does the stock PSU really need to be upgraded
What is the discount code for the PSU that you mentioned in the video?
my ender 3 pro I just got has a weak psu.. it isn't the same as my first ender 3 pro, but the specs look the same. anyone know what would cause massive voltage drops? should I just replace it?\
Don't forget to flip your on/off switch because On is up in every other context.
Is this power supply replacement procedure the same for the CR-10 using a 12V power supply in regards to connections? Just swap cable for cable and done?
Anyone have a idea?
@@Spitzk0pfl4rry It's the same process just make sure you replace it with another 12V psu.
Why should we perform this upgrade? You mentioned bad grounding. Is this a fault in the stock Ender 3 PSU? Can you discuss more about the performance issues and why we should upgrade?
Does the Mean well power supply fit in the stock case and screws line up with the holes? Or is it essential to print th3s case?
Thanks for watching! It doesn't fitt the stock case. You can print theirs, or grab one off of thingiverse to make it work.
Thanks for your help! You're channel may be up and coming but it's already awesome from the get go.
@@adriansmithmusic Thank you!! I'm glad it's helping, and I appreciate the compliment!
The Edge of Tape
What is the advantage of swapping one 24V SMPS for another?
The MeanWell PSU is UL listed and certified. It's an overall better more consistent more safe PSU. The stock one is fine until it dies though. Just watch for warning signs that it could be dying like extra heat or the machine running funny.
@@TheEdgeofTech or until it burns your house down... whichever first.
does anyone know where to get just the black plastic case and the black and red wires? My rabbit chewed through the red wire
Red is the live wire, your rabbit is very lucky the thing wasn't turned on.
@@chiimotosuwa8423 I wouldn't have it turned on around him anyways, I was worried he'd be frightened by the noise. Its weird cuz he managed to get up on the desk once and never again. I've since moved my printer though
Nice video but you can get it cheaper on amazon !
Did u print psu cover pla or petg ? Th3d didnt mention that in their page
Hey Plazma! I used PLA! But either could be used, or you can buy one from TH3D already to go I believe!
@@TheEdgeofTech i found too many covers on thingiverse but none of them perdect fit read too many comments i decided design one before ur video but not needed now its fit perfect i go for pla too thank you Jim much appreciated
Still don't fully understand why would one upgrade from the stock PSU. How exactly is the Meanwell better.
Because they are much better power supplies. They are certified and should not have the grounding issues that the stock ones come with. They are much more efficient in holding the temperatures on your nozzle and bed. That's why these days the end or three pro is the way to go, because it comes with the upgraded power supply already!
Thechnicly the stock one regular led psu not designed for 3dprinters or step/servo motors if u search about arc, motors etc get more info about that, 2nd meanwell lrs350-24 is an industrial product means u can run it 7/24 u can check datasheet too
@@plazmax Thanks for the response! And you are absolutely correct!
@@TheEdgeofTech meh, ive had mean well power supplies fail on me repeatedly... and the company refuses to repair anything under warranty.. Not convinced
I prefer the genuine creality brand. Don't want to cheap out on a third party power supply.
Hi, my ender 3 pro is always having power outages which cause the resume print option to come up. My house power never cuts out so I believe my month old ender 3 pro power supply is faulty. After resume print option is selected most of the time my z axis looks to be lower and wrecks my print. Here is a video i just posted on youtube with it happening. Any ideas? Thanks
Jason
ruclips.net/video/AHV6OfOaKRI/видео.html
Doesn't using a 3D printed part for the bottom represent a fire hazard? I'm pretty sure the filament you used is not flame-retardant. It's like people who print their own enclosure for the mosfet, motherboard, pi, relays... they don't realize the safety hazard this represents. People see plastic enclosures in everyday life on mass consumers products so they think can play engineers and print their own enclosures. Only they don't know that those industrial plastic enclosures are usually made out of flame-retardant treated plastics. Now you can find some flame-retardant filaments, but it's pretty new, expensive, only avalaible in milky white color I think, no PLA version yet, and most people don't know about it.
That's a good question, and I don't know the answer to that. I wouldn't think that the plastic would conduct any electricity, but of course if you had an open flame it would definitely burn.
@@TheEdgeofTech I don't think standard filaments conduct electricity. But from my understandings 3D printed parts rapidely become fuel in case of an open flame because the filament they are made of are not flame-retardant treated. That is where the danger resides.
Your concern is valid. UL listed item that isolate line voltage are regulated to be fire retardant. The hazard here is if the silicone line voltage wires chafe and get hot the plastic is easily ignited. This is a hazard normally mitigated with engineered plastic. Manufacturers are circumventing the regulation easily by having us do the manufacturing. Sooner or later the hazards of 3D printing will become the lipo fire in the media. The 3D printing community needs to promote safety features and elevate safety concerns.
I think it's a legitimate concern, and something the industry/community should continue looking into. That being said, different filament types and formulations have different properties and heat resistances. Most descriptions on Thingiverse/etc will recommend not using PLA near anything hot because it will melt (not necessarily burn). ABS and PET/G are often offered as recommendations for their higher heat resistance. Makers Muse did a video with some somewhat un-scientific testing to illustrate flammability of a handful of filaments to open flame: ruclips.net/video/a7l0Aaysy_8/видео.html. While ABS has a higher melting point, once it starts to burn, it keeps burning. The "engineered plastic" used on the OEM cover is most likely a modified ABS. Another common thermoplastic is Polypropylene (PP) and is similarly flammable. PMMA (Acrylic) is yet another industrial material that is highly flammable (Anet A8 anyone?). PET is what water bottles are made out of. Ever seen someone (say a teenager) try and burn one of those? It takes some work. ABS/PP you have to work to get it hot enough, but once its there you get the black smoke - similar to what Angus shows in his video. As he admits, his "test" is using direct heat vs indirect, so performance could vary based on those circumstances. Just food for thought. I think if you have a PSU failure, your 3d printed cover might not be your biggest concern - but it certainly could hurt if its made of a highly flammable material.
Make sure you do this with the Ender 5 and Ender 5 Pro also the minute you get one people!!! Those have CRAP Landy cheap PSU, NOT the Mean Wells! The PLUS uses a larger wattage PSU.
It's beyond me why Creality did this... well... really, because CHEAP and don't care if your printer burns your house down with all your 24 cats in it. Meow Poo Poo platter.
I like the meanwell psu for sure!
@@TheEdgeofTech FOR SURE JIM! U ROCK DUDE! ; )
BTW:
ruclips.net/video/tlM_1IN7We0/видео.html
shitty intro music is way, way too loud