Creality Ender 3, CR-10 - Hotend PTFE Fix
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- Опубликовано: 3 ноя 2024
- Chuck uses an Ender3, CR10 Hotend PTFE Fix to correct a common issue on these 3D printers. Typically the PTFE tubing will lift away from the nozzle leaving a gap and forming a blockage. Chuck shows you two alternatives to fix that problem.
My Custom Coupling:
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Original Creality hot end ptfe fix:
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CR10 Hotend Model:
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Check out my update on this hotend fix here:
ruclips.net/video/7tCxO17XZtw/видео.html
thoughr my ender 3 nozzle had a washer right above it in the hot end but was a perfectly round black charred circle of plastic wow
Newbie here, broke my coupler trying to get the PTFE out after I was having some minor issues... I was able to use an alligator clip to grab onto the PTFE and some wire to hold the clip to the hotend shroud long enough for me to print this, you've saved me a week of waiting for new couplers and I'm already back to printing!
Many thanks and happy new year!
Chuck, i'm the author of the original coupling and your improvement is really clever. I like it!
Once I'll connect to the thingiverse, I'll put a link on your modified version into the description.
Thanks and wish you many successful prints!
You did the hard part. What software did you use to design it.
@@FilamentFriday For all my 3D designs, I'm using Rhinoceros 5.0 (but planning to buy an upgrade to 6.0).
It uses NURBS model for calculating 3D instead of mashes but includes useful tool for stl export.
A properly assembled stock hot end will never experience this problem. I am glad this works and it is a novel solution. I would prefer however not to add more steps and complexity to my configurations.
I applaud the creative solutions though. All 3 of them and your remix of the 2 to make them even more convenient.
Sure, but the couplings that come from creality will fail sooner than later, at least they did for me on two printers. May as well kill two birds with one stone like with this solution.
Over time couplings fail especially after a lot of retractions push to create the gap. If it wasn’t a common issue I wouldn’t get the views I got on my previous video showing how to properly fix it with better couplings. This is an alternative many viewers suggested.
CHEP nothing wrong with that. Your viewers have the choice. My Cr 10 mini works fine but if I ever have such problems I’ll definitely try out this solution.
oh like I said nothing wrong with creative solution. like I said I especially like your combination of both of them into a single convenient part. elegant.
but I have never had a coupler fail past burn in. I have had them come basically DOA. install the spare and never a problem again. I would consider it a low failure component. of course you do need to install it right and secure the clip. if its allowed to ride back and forth it will eventually chew the PTFE tube. most are damaged on removal not on use. users don't remove them right wreck them and when reinstalled they fail. if you can't get the PTFE tube out stop trying. remove the compression fitting push the fitting FURTHER into the tube while depressing twisting and then reversing direction to slide it off.
creality recognizes some of this issue and now includes nice clips with the printers. I hope to see them included across the board soon and also for sale nice and cheap :-)
BTW I also LOVE your teaching aid you got their for the hot end in cut away. FREAKING cool! did you fab that up or get it from somewhere else?
@@FilamentFriday
Link is in the description for the hotend STL I started with and then I designed the rest in Tinkercad.
Thank you!
I was trying to fix this problem for a few months and I was hopeless but now after printing your coupler my ender 3 is making perfect prints
I'm not sure if you ended up with the XVico Pioneer but that little extra PTFE in the nozzle is how mine came, which I thought was curious. Sadly the ID is really really bad on it and I replaced with PTFE all the way down, but might go back to this method only with better tolerance tubes. Surprised the printed coupler held up!! Just goes to show even PLA can work for functional parts.
I have lots of functional PLA parts that I sell that hold up really well.
I have an XVico but haven’t taken it out of the box yet. Gotta get to that ;)
In the short amount of time I've been using my Ender 3 Pro you've been an invaluable source of innovative content, .STLs, and overall advice! Keep up the great work.
Chuck, thanks for a wonderful tour of the inside of the Ender 3 and CR10 hotends. It's so helpful when trying to resolve people's extrusion issues! Thank you again for a wonderfully done video!
How long must the small blunt PTFE tube be I don't see it anywhere
you are the boss. Save my life...I had to finish some work and the Custom Coupling work perfect. In my country there is no parts in stock. Thanks man.
Thank you so much for these! You just helped me fix my CR10s5. I watched this video and the one about hot end gap. That was my problem. I also want to thank you for all the getting started with electronics books from Radio Shack. I learned electronics from those when I was in high school. I'm 65 now, so those helped me for a lifetime.
Hey Chuck, Thats incredible. I'm certain there are a ton of people that will find this a god-send.
Hi. I’ve been using One Bad Marine’s fix for a week or two with success. Will give your update a try too. Thank you.
Thank you! You just helped me fix a problem I just couldn't figure out. Thanks also for all the getting started with electronics little books from Radio Shack. I taught myself electronics using your books when I was in high school. That knowledge was more useful than anything they taught at the school.
From week to week we get something revolutionary from you.
Once again Chuck some research and practical input goes a long way Thanks for bringing this to my attention and the community !!!
Excellent work. I just saw your video so I used a different approach on my Ender 5 since I had not seen your recommendation.
I have replaced the Bowden tube with Capricorn and also replace the original Creality coupler with a coupler that use metal components instead of plastic to lock in the tube. Then I put the new coupler into the top of the hot end and after it was tight I backed it out about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Then I put the new tube into the coupler and push it down as far as it will go. Now, remember the coupler is backed out just a bit. Now I tighten the couple which pushes the tube down a bit and also helps lock in into the coupler.
Yes, I’ve done that as well and it works great. Another option is to also loosen the nozzle a turn. Then tighten after the PTFE is in place.
Thank you Chuck! you helped us with our da vinci's now you're helping us with our creality printers thank you for your help and advice by showing us the figurative potholes on our 3d printing road!
You’re welcome
This is actually brilliant. Good job
This was the bane of my existence for the past month
Trying to fix this
This is awesome - I won't need this mod on my old printer but the original coupling will likely replace the cheap metal coupling I use on my old printer my 12 y.o. has - it looks like it'll grip the PTFE tube better and there is no risk of little metal teeth dropping into the hot end (which has happened to me on several occasions and is a royal pain to fix).
Thanks!
never stop making vids please you are defo the best om yt i found explained every issue how you found it multiple solutions every issue i had was fixed by you basicaly so thanks a bunch!
Glad I could help.
Wasn't aware that this was an issue. I have 3 creality printers and never had a problem. Cut the tube flush, put it down the hotend and have good coupling sets. Also, I find it weird that you put capricorn tube inside hotend but not using it from the extruder to the hot end. I know it can take hotter temps, but the lower tolerance and smoother inside makes it worth using.
Ill try right away! Yesterday i was in a hurry and your video saved me. Man i really love what you are doing!
Wow! This is one of my favorite channels and for good reason!
I just printed this for my Ender 3. I had a piece of Capricorn tube that was too short for a Bowden tube so I used it for the hot end piece. I think I left it a little too long because my first test was seriously under extruded, suggesting unwanted friction somewhere. I backed the fitting out of the heat sink and printing improved.
I remeasured a few things and decided I was a bit long. Even with the good cutters, it is hard to take off 1 mm and get a square cut on the end (well for me at least) so I just cut another piece to length. It is now about 1mm above the heat sink and it is printing better than ever! AND I'll never have to buy one of those fittings again! I printed a second spare just in case I ever need it.
Now I'm off to find an STL for the one on the extruder.
i had the fitting/coupling break over the weekend, so i made this, and the luke hotend fix, and its just works, i got new parts monday, but im not changing it, its works
I built an aluminum washer for my ENDER 3. This is a good fix, mine works flawlessly. Works better than an all metal Hot end. I print PETG all the time at 240-250C no problems. I have 260C PTFE Tube in the lower section. I ditched the ENDER 3 PTFE Couplers the first day, since one failed to hold the tube after the 2nd or 3rd print.
If you not sure, crank up those e steps and the junky originals will die very very quickly,. LOL
@@Biff8899 Ain't that the truth. You don't need to crank up the E-steps too much. I was printing fairly slow with mine and the tube just popped out. Fortunately, I had ordered some extra high grade fittings as a precaution.
A coupling like that would be pretty easy to machine out of aluminum or brass as well. I might do that for our cr10s-pros in the shop here, because I 100% have been running into the issue of the ptfe tubing wiggling enough that after 50-100 hours of printing I get a backflow clog and have to disassemble and clean the hotend. Awesome ideas man!
If you do, I would totally buy 4
I'd totally buy a couple too! Shoot me a message if you make any!
@@schmaltzy82 if you do make these in metal I would like to buy as well
I dont own a machine compatible with this, but I've got to give Chuck props for this, its awesome
This helped me a lot as I had same problem with fan that I hadn't noticed , now replaced fan all is good again 👍👍
So there I was bumbling around watching YT videos until my eyes bled, just another day on Furlough. I have had this nagging problem of ptfe tubing getting stuck in the hotend coupler so much so that I always have to cut it off and renew the tubing.
Then as if I was touched by an all powerful Deity( more likely a draught from the lounge window) in my bumbling I bumbled onto Cheps channel and there it was a 3d printed hotend coupler . So simple yet beautiful. I am a lazy git and have been meaning to add Chep on Patreon for ages but Furlough has a way of focusing your mind on the small but now important stuff. I mean I could be dead next week so I did it. Please don't thank me Chep it's not much. I think the tiers are Gold,Silver and Bronze. I'm on the Wet Cardboard one. Please just do what you obviously like doing and if having lots of Patrons means you don't have to take as much shit as you may have used to then good for you.LLAP
This is a really good solution. It's the style of the duplicator i3 mini which of all the problems that it has, clogging is not one.
Just printed and installed this on my CR-10s today. Worked perfect. Thank you!
Got my first 3D printer for Christmas. Binged all of your youtube videos and learned a whole lot, especially about tinkercad, so I just became a Patreon supporter. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge. BTW, I remember when Connor played for the Riverhawks!
Wow, that was a long time ago. Thanks for watching and your support. Register at CHEPCLUB.com and I’ll upgrade your registration to match your Patreon level.
Great application and example of combining two great ideas into another great idea. I'm thinking that getting a tachometer might not be a bad idea to occasionally check the fan speed on workhorse printers. I would like to see future videos on maintaining your printer. I print a lot of PLA and PETG and have had great results (no clogs) with and prefer the hot ends with high quality PTFE sleeves (like Capricorn) all the way to the nozzle vs. all metal hot ends for these two filament materials.
Thermal camera would also work to have a reference for heatsink temperature, and will also show failed sections on a hot bed as well, along with failing connectors before they catch fire.
I just subbed because of this video. Freaking life saver. My CR10 is printing like a champ once i did the little trapped ptfe tube trick. THANK YOU!
Great video. I hope to receive my ender pro by latest next week Tuesday, and this will be my very first upgrades. I've been working on these creality machines over two years, and I will confirm that this is a very common problem with older technology hotend designs across the board. The old Ultimakers2 also used to have that problem which is fixed in the um3 versions onward.
thanks for this. i just had a blockage from the ptfe not seated correctly. it is very easy for there to be a tiny gap which eventually leads to a clog
Thank you @KRrekTM and Chuck. Thanks for doing this Chuck I have been floundering with my CR10S.
Gonna give this a try this weekend! Thanks Chuck as always well done!
I'm a bit late to the party but love this idea. If I were to machine a stainless tube to the same dimensions as the inner PTFE, would that serve as an "all metal" hot end? Stainless is a pretty poor heat conductor and I imagine wouldn't offer much resistance to the filament either?
Don’t know. You’d just have to try it.
Try it and let us know how it goes. How about brass or copper? I think those would mate to surfaces a little better.
@@slappy76 Brass or copper are good conductors, they would make excellent heat sinks further out but wouldn't insulate the hot end for long. I was just about to order a section of 4mm/2mm surgical steel (from a hypodermic needle manufacturer!) when I spotted a Stainless mk8 drop in All Metal throat for £5 on Amazon.. I'll try that first!
Brilliant!!! That is an amazing solution.
Can’t wait until next Friday to see what new lesson you will have. Thx
Maybe it has already been noted, but the printed fitting did not hold the Bowden tube on my CR10s. I was 15 minutes into my first print after the hotend fix when the filament pushed out the fitting. The male threaded portion looked very rough. I had printed a second one because it didn't look substantial enough... The 'nut', on the other hand, looked great. I was hoping to not have to buy the pneumatic push-lock fitting. Not the end of the world.
Nice job, you delivered stability 💝
I have done all the above, plus even changed the stock springs. I am printing a print that I have printed many times before with no problems. So it’s not the slicer. But now about 45 minutes into the print it starts skipping, not all over, just the same spots over and over.
I’ve replaced nozzle , extruder, ptfe tube, springs, calibrated, changed filament, aligned bed over and over and even added a washer with the horned to keep Bowden tube close to nozzle. I’ve been living on RUclips and google for help. I’ve tried everything. Please help.
I’m about to pull my hair out lol. I have an Etsy store and have many orders overdue. I’m at my wits end. Any advice is much appreciated!!!!
If it’s the same spot, I’d reslice it on a new SD card. Could be a bad sector formed in the SD card.
Change the all hotend. You can solve it with just this way.
my fan seems to slow down considerably to and then if I like touch the fan blades real quick with the tip of a tiny screwdriver it'll stop and then spin up really fast again then slowed down to a crawl. What I've been seeing is my filament is melting up into the tubing I ruined two sections of tubing in one day just now. Would you say that this is what's happening probably the fan is not keeping the top half of that all metal extruder cool enough? I'm also a machinist do you think if I made a two piece extruder with the top half out of copper it would help? Copper seems to dissipate heat better than any other metal other than gold I'm wondering if I should give that a try. Be a little bit expensive you couldn't really mass-produce on for any kind of reasonable cost but I could make him for myself LOL please let me know what you think if you think this is my problem I just ordered a couple replacement fans and a couple yards are tubing etcetera. I ordered the blue tubing that you show in this video I can't remember the name of it already I forgot I'm getting old LOL
Yes, sounds like your fan is failing.
I've ordered some new tubing and fans and they should be here first thing Monday morning I'm bummed out because I just got this damn thing they must use really subpar fans. At any rate I did kind of burn my fingers trying to take the top coupling out that should not have been hot up there so yeah the fans got to be the problem I had melted pla two and a half inches up the tubing. So it must have been a cap and then greeting itself up the tubing until it finally cooled and then I noticed extruder gear clicking every once in awhile as they gave up and then spun back into place I also noticed that the screw was about three turns loose on the spring assembly so I think it was a combination of things.
When I get my fans if there's enough Warrior left on the fan should I try and feed it all the way back to its source or just snip and solder and heat shrink? I think I'll just snap it Saturday and he trinket nice and neat. Luckily I have 30 years of soldering so it'll being nice job anyway. Maybe I'll get to Molex connectors I have a T-Type Molex crimper I could make a connector right there so if I have to switch fans it's just plug and play
Just found your sight & I like it Just a thought on that part to hold the tube in the top of the extruder I never use PLA for any parts on my printer. PTFE is the only filament I use on my printer it's just that much better at holding up under temperature. PTFE prints as easily as PLA so it's usually what I print with.
PETG I'm guessing is what you meant to say. Afaik there's no printer hard core enough to print with the heat resistant material PTFE.
You need to have that coupling design made in metal. Sign me up for a few. Great idea, I'm not sold on the plastic version. As a small volume printer, such a failure would ruin hours of work on a large print. I'd rather "push through" the print and get it done and replace teh fan as part of routine maintenance from time to time.
Great video. I’m not having problems, but if I do, I’ll definitely try this. Please do an update on this in a couple months and maybe summarize all your mods and how happy you are longer term.
Loosen the coupler by 1/2 turns, push bowden tube in as far it will go, tighten coupling. Push/pull on the tube to check there's no play at all. Job done. Nice video, thank you.
Fan is easy to fix, just trip it and clean the shaft, and bore, use some WD 40 on a paper towel for the shaft, and the same on a thin piece of wound up paper on the shaft as well, then place a drop of light oil ( 3 in 1 oil, sewing machine oil or even 0W15 motor oil, not silicone oil) on the bush, assemble and another tiny drop at the rear by the O ring and clip, and close up the back. Fan will run much better, and if you do this on new ones they will last longer as well, because the original lubrication they come with is not really enough to fully soak the bushing.
Even works with ball bearing fans, though there you do not strip, just use a drop of oil and fill the rear, then place some film (or a disposable nitrile glove) to apply pressure to get the extra oil into the bearing, a little more to get to the front bearing and away you go with a quiet long lasting fan.
Yes I used to repair little fans, because they were $2k each, and I could get the bearings for them. Not meant to come apart, but went back together with a drop of superglue to replace the original glue that held them together. They were easy to diagnose, if they did not scream loudly they were faulty.
The Boden tube coupler faild me and was nolonger holding the tube to the hot end will definitely get this printed out. In the mean time I used the smaller coupling and JB welded it to the larger coupler so I can print the parts
My hot end came with this design. Can I replace the factory tube inside the heat break with a piece of my new capricorn bowden tubing?
yes
love this video. i seen the idea of the piece of ptfe in the hot end with a washer just havent had a chance to really try it. but since this video i do like your clamp idea way better. reason it it can help identify a problem that absolutely nothing else can identify. potential fan failure. freakin awsome.
Excellent work, this solves a bunch of issues, and makes access to the PTFE tube easier when using something like a Petsfang Bullseye. Just one note though - while Capricorn tubing is very nice, it's still PTFE, and does not allow for higher than normal temperatures. The marketing is a little "vague" around this...
What is normal? Capricorn XS states 340° C melting point specs.
@@FilamentFriday It also states it's 'mostly' safe at 210c, 'ok' at 225c and 'maybe' safe at 275c, which they're honest about...but not exactly clear. PTFE off-gasses well below it's melting point, and while some dodgy PTFE tubes 'could' perform worse than standard in terms of off-gassing, Capricorn tubes do not perform better than industry standard PTFE.
@@FilamentFriday And while I'm rambling, I'd also argue that comparing melting points of 'as low as 220' against 'up to 340' is super special marketing science...
Maybe a stupid question... But why can't you replace the short ptfe length in the hotend with a metal tube length and have an instant 'all metal' hotend?
Whoops sorry didnt see that comment below! I dont see why this hasnt been tried yet
@@Tinchineering well,, because many of us do not want or need a all metal hot end.
for starters, all metal hot ends are engineered a little differently, than simply a "tube" slid in. they have a heat break, this is required or every time you retract the filament it will cool and stick in the all metal hot end.
the second reason is stringing and blobbing because the retractions and settings all need reconfigured for a all metal hot end.
long story short. if all you print is PLA... the stock hotend in my opinion is actually BETTER than an all metal hot end. and onebadmarine, fixed one of the major issues that the stock hotend had.
personally, I would go with the ORIGINAL fix from onebadmarine. not Chep's fix.
this is one of those times where I think someone found a super simple solution that just works,, then tried to make it "better" but really made it more complicated and inferior.
Hi Chep. Do you know of a mast to print that would fasten to the hot end or one of the roller screws so you can zip tie all of the wires to the mast that come out of the top of the hot end. During printing all of those wires are flexing and twisting and pulling. It can't be good for them. Even a metal bracket or mast would help.
I noticed today that on my Tevo Tornado the bowden tube on the extruder was moving in and out of the coupling quite a bit, And I have bad stringing that I haven't been able to solve. It always did that, but I really noticed it today. These couplings might help a lot!
That was the original reason as I showed in this video:
ruclips.net/video/x35aWmnZ_A0/видео.html
I'm guessing this will not fit with my Bullseye fan configuration installed. I may just go back to factory configuration just so I can test this. I bought a couple of meters of PTFE, so I tend to trim mine a lot. Especially between exotic filaments. It always seems to have created a 1/4 gap before the nozzle no matter how I reassemble the hot end.
Looking at mine, I don't think it will. If the bottom of the printed fitting was just a little longer, at the smaller diameter of the threads, it would clear. Maybe Chuck can make us one :)
Your content is amazing! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and helping peons like me.
We’re all learning. Glad I could help.
Great idea, I will use this. I found that I needed more airflow from the cooling fan to enable more retraction when I started printing PETG. The fan I have now is noisy but it works to keep the top of the extruder cool to the touch.
When retraction causes jams the filament is stuck hard in the nozzle as it swelled on the quick push after a retraction jerk. This new coupling trick would make it a lot easier to get that filament out. Now I have to remove the nozzle, to open the coupling (fan shroud in the way)
Could you design a coupling that snapped together, or was much taller to elevate the gripping nut?
Maybe in the future.
Thank you this came just in time I just experienced my first clog
Another ides from this is to use a standard pneumatic fitting that doesn't allow the ptfe to go through the fitting. thus doing exactly what you want.
I took a marker and dabbed a spot on the connecting area of the ptfe tube and coupling. I noticed the coupling was bad and replaced it. I've noticed by watching those marks that after putting better fittings, after a while the tube might not pull out but it might spin or rotate in the fitting. Doing this mod might prevent the tube from rotating in the heat break, if it even ever does.
4:00 How long should the PTFE tube be for yours?
Also, can you post the 3d model of that cut away?
Thanks as always great videos. Answered my newbie question in the intro. The question which is not answered in just about any other place that is how far in does the ptfe tube go.
Another great video Chuck, thanks!
Thanks.
Using prints as schematic, awesome!
well but why did you have to use that spacer in there, wouldnt it had worked if you just pushed the ptfe tube down without the washer?
to stop the ptfe tube from backing out causing a small gap between the nozzle and ptfe tube (a common problem for the ender 3)
The coupler will eat into the tube during retractions and feeds. That is what causes to movement and in turn the gap at the tip of the PTFE and the nozzle. What this does is "decouple" that last section of PTFE and forces it into the nozzle then if the second section that is held by the coupler moves around it will not be a problem causing clogs and backups . The washer is what is pushing the last section of tube down from the coupler threads pushing IT down.
wouldn't it be better to 3d-print this out of something like PETG or even PC? I'd worry about creep in PLA since there's quite a bit of force acting on the threads for hours at a time.
Do they make 1.75mm peek tubing ? :)
Cool idea and WOW that's an AMAZING print! (and I'm a print quality craze)
Hey Chep, will this work on my Creality cr10s pro v2?? And if it does, can I print your coupler design in pla or does it have to be something else?
Sorry for my noobiness, I've only been printing for 6 months.
Not sure. Haven’t tried it.
Great Idea! An improvent would be to extend the length (height) of the PTFE capture tube and nut above the design - a longer capture would need less tightness to hold the tube in place. As it is I fear the tube will slip free and probably not enough pressure could be applied by the nut to hold it in place. It wouldn't hurt if the nut was double length or greater.
I don’t understand your idea. My length works fine.
Actually I commented before making your design, and having now done so I realise those comments were erroneous. So apologies for raising a non-issue.
The concern that I had was that the PTFE feeder tube would not be held firmly enough and would slip out of the design. However now that I can see the holding arrangement that would seem to be unlikely.
Good design which I will make use of in the coming days. Well done!!!
Hey Chuck, I see you did a wooden pla cube. What settings do you use on your ender 3 to get the best wood prints? Thanks!
My profiles.
I've been chasing my tail on my Geeetech A10 having some slight extrusion issues and been tweaking away on my Simplify3D profile....where it may be this issue you point out....hmmmm I re-did the esteps since the stock one was only putting out 97 mm when prompted to extrude 100 mm I see it prominently on gap filling in prints.
where I am wrong ? The nut hits the base of the mounting wall for the hotend, so I have to disassemble to hotend from the mounting first. Does it work for you like me or what. Thanks
Do you use the same length of tube as Luke did for his fix?
Nice Video compilation for troubleshooting for the ender 3! They helped me allot since i got my Ender 3!!! Thanks for that. But if i fix one problem another problem comes up...
What is this green ring at 2:01? A washer? Where do i get it?
All links are in description.
For me 43mm works nice :)
Do you know if anything like this exists or if it would even be possible...
Instead of a PTFE tube through the hot end which butts up against the nozzle, could you instead put in a metal tube of some sort? something like stainless steel which has fairly low volumetric and linear thermal expansion (and is also inexpensive) might be ideal. My idea is that using a metal tube combined with what you have experimented with you would have a drop in upgrade which would allow these printers to print at hotter temperatures without risk of melting the PTFE tubing.
That’s what a heat break does but doesn’t go all the way up because the heat creep would affect the filament further up and cause blockage. So I don’t believe that would work.
Keep up the good work chuck
Have you ever had problems with the connector that the tube slides into? I have had problems with mine and the tube pulling out of the connector in the middle of a print. I have a brand new creality cr-10s pro
Yes:
ruclips.net/video/x35aWmnZ_A0/видео.html
I find it pretty hilarious that at first, you must have a 3d printer, then shortly thereafter...I must have a 3d printer to print parts for my failing 3d printer...lovely
Thanks for your dedication , you sure saved 3d printing for me, all I have had is problem after problem with my ender 3, I would have pitched the unit if I hadn't found your channel, consider this as an appreciation comment, and a sub, THX bro!!
That's why you have 2 3d printers. That way you always have a printer to fix your printer.
Thanks for the video but in seeing one issue for me. When I change the filament, some melted pla sticks on the ptfe tube and then I need to push it all the way down, or up, to clean it. With this configuration it complicate things, imo.
You misunderstand the fix - it's to prevent that from happening. Please note teh PTFE tube insert that butts up against nozzle. The reason you get plugs is when teh tube doesn't fit right against the nozzle allowing blobs.
@@TheRezolutionPhoto I don't get plugs but some tiny amount of pla stucks in the inner tube of my capricorn when changing filaments and I have to remove the nozzle to clean it. All I'm saying is that it not good for me and probably anyone else who has to clean it like me.
You get the tiny plugs because you have a tiny gap between your PTFE and the nozzle. I explain it in more detail here: ruclips.net/video/x35aWmnZ_A0/видео.html
I have a question concerning tightening the nozzle. Does the nozzle tighten against the part of the throat in the heat block or is the nozzle tighten against the heat block only? Then let the puematic connector push the small piece of TPFE tube against the nozzle for sealing?
Before, I let a little tpfe tube(.04 inch) stick out past the throat before I tighten the nozzle down onto the throat with the temperature at 200 deg C.
It tightens to the block and the PTFE fills the gap.
@@FilamentFriday What about the throat part that goes into the heat block? Doesn't matter anymore?
It locates/centers the PTFE and connects the heat block to the heat sink. How could it not matter?
@@FilamentFriday Sorry if I appear ignorant. I am trying to finish my setup. You do not mention how to install the whole setup. So I am asking.
So to repeat: I screw the throat to be close to the nozzle in the heat block.
1. Leave a small gap between the bottom of the heat block and the top of the nozzle.
2. Screw the throat in to touch the nozzle in the heat block.Heat the block to about 210 Deg.
3. Tighten nozzle to throat.
4. Insert a small piece of TPFE into the heat sink, leave a little TPFE for compression.
5. Tighten connector to be tight but not too tight to compress TPFE onto nozzle for sealing.
6. Install rest of TPFE tubing and filament.
7 Done.
So I still tighten the nozzle to the throat as before. This will hold heat block and nozzle in place.
Correct?
I had the same problem with the Ender-3 fan. In my case it failed after it sucked some strand of filament and got tangled. These cheap fans get really hot when stalled and the bushings crap out.
I have ender 3 pro and i'm getting "Thermal Runaway printer halted" error message. don't know how to fix that.
The temperature sensor may have fallen out of the hot end.
That may have done the job thanks
One of the most recommended upgrade for ender 3 is changing the stock tubing to capricorn one.
I did it, and print quality is worse, why?
Did you make sure it’s pushed all the way to the nozzle, no gap?
@@FilamentFriday Yes it must have been all the way in as the marks left on the tube from the teeth of a coupler were on the same spacing as the original one.
Also few times it completly clogged the filament inside of that capricorn tubing right around the end, after 5 minutes of printing.
Great improvement, thanx for inventing and sharing it.
Clever solution Chuck. You’ve got me wondering if this same technique could be used on the geeetech A10M/A20M to reduce some of the jamming people are experiencing.
I planned to try it on the A10 but didn’t think about the A10M. Even though they have a metal heat break, if the PTFE isn’t all the way to it, it creates the same type of blockage.
Chuck - I am still having problems with my HotEnd that came on the SunLu S8. I have taken it apart a number of times to clean out jams. The hot block on this is a little different than the other Hotends .. if y ou could take a look at yours (I bought mine after you did a demo ) and you can see that you can not push the Bowan tube all the way to the tip ... it has a separate piece that can only go in from the bottom..??? Any help would be appreciated..>!!
so, I have the issue on my Ender 3 that the ptfe tube won't come out of the top of the hot end. It's stuck in there very good, which I suppose is a good thing in a way, but made troubleshooting a jam a while back very difficult. I could get the stock pneumatic coupling off, but the tube wouldn't budge.
You do know that you need to push *down* on the blue release ring on the top of the coupler? Sometimes the PTFE wears a barb on the grip ring in the coupler but you can always unscrew the coupler and remove it *and* the PTFE tube together. Once you have done that you can push the PTFE through the coupler a little more and reveal the barb section on the PTFE tube. Carefully clean that up with a sharp knife and release the tube by pressing the blue release ring on the coupler. You will need to take a small (5mm) cut off the end of the PTFE before re-inserting to make sure the coupler retaining clip grips on a *new* section of the PTFE tube. Always cut the end of the PTFE square with a very sharp knife - the base *MUST* be flat
@@havenview right, I did know that. The ptfe was stuck in the hot end, not the coupler. I did manage to get it out, and even though I've never printed higher than 220 the end of the tube was burnt. Replacement has been ordered, this time with some capricorn tube
Hello CHEP. my ender 3 pro start print very great until 5 mm high, after that it is look like not enough material can cross from nuzzle and print look like mess. can you tell me what is a problem?
Thanks
isnt this fan supposed to draw air out not blowing in mine is sucking it oout
Can I print petg at 240degreesC with a ptfe liner. My hotend is v6 j hotend..It has ptfe liner inside already separated like yours in the heatbreak.... Its my First time using and building a 3d printer.. Or do i need to get an all metal heat break.
6:00 why maybe? shouldn't it be a definite yes?
Maybe use PETG or PLA+ for the coupler?
I'm going to give this a go Thanks Chuck
Thank you for the videos. Do you think it's a bad idea to buy a CR-10 Mini right now or is it reaching the end of it's life?
I think it’s still a great printer for the price. Right now it’s $289.99 from BANGGOOD USA warehouse. bit.ly/2u5XNJk