You're Using Our Tools Wrong | Tech Tuesday
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- In addition to appearing on camera, Calvin fields a lot of phone calls from customers and over the years he has learned that sometimes folks are JUST USING OUR TOOLS WRONG.
On this Tech Tuesday Calvin doles out some advice on how to use your Park Tool Tools better!
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When mentoring junior bike mechanics in the shop, my first (jokey but firm) warning is that anyone found using the 15mm cone wrench on axle nuts will be immediately fired. 😉
Next is to get in the habit of spinning nuts and bolts the 'wrong' way when threading them on, until you feel the ''click of the start of the thread - it greatly reduces the chances of accidental cross-threading, especially in soft metals.
Also, get used to to feeling the tool's feedback through your hand - especially important with chain-riveters - once you've felt how it feels when it goes well a few times, use that 'finger-feel' knowledge to immediately back off and re-seat the tool if you feel the pressure going past what you'd expect - saves a lot of bent tool-pins and damaged chain-links.
Ha, ha, love it! I wrote using a cone wrench on a 15mm nut above before reading your post. Genius minds think alike!!!
Listen, there's nothing you can do to stop me from using the Chain Machine to press in BB30 bearings
You're gonna get a little home visit from "Customer Service". :)
I say go for it.
GO boy, go!!! That's your shit! It's your money!
Chain machine?
@@ethanbowering9944 Cyclone chain cleaner I guess?
All the best for the new year Clavin. Best mtb service/repair content on the Internet!!! Thanks for the service 🙏
Incorrect tool use: using just about any tool as a hammer.
On my job site in the bush we often have limited tools available and "can you pass me the adjustable hammer" has become a common request. 🤣
Thank you. Love watching and learning from these videos.
Great job , Prerequisite for Anyone starting a repair !should have had this when I started repairing my bikes as a kid. Park Tool saving components tools and mechanics .
Every tool is a hammer
Great advice Kalvin Thanks.
Funny this vid should pop up as I just bought a Park Professional truing stand and disc brake alignment jig. For years built wheel in the bike frame. Love the spoke wrenches. A cheater pipe can be a knuckle saver by the way.
Calvin are the only one true repair master! 🙃
Explained very well and found useful. Thanks Calvin.
That thumbnail is amazing
nice job guys
Why can‘t all tool manufacturers‘ videos be like this? Excellent video!
Using cone wrenches for anything else.
Once saw a one-star review for a cone wrench online from someone who'd destroyed it while using it for a pedal or something - but complained about it being just stamped metal. The vendor replied, very carefully and politely saying, basically, 'you idiot.'
Use the right torque and/or make sure to never over tighten anything. I've seen so many people over the years (especially the general public) think a screw or a bolt needs to be as tight as possible. Either use specific torque wrench, use the right torque setting on your screwdriver, or manually quarter turn backwards
Been using the park tool crown race setter for ec34 cane creek crown races and they’ve never been a good match but it took me years to decide to order the right fitting from cane creek.
I'm dying 😂 This is the best tool video I've seen from anyone in a while.
Cross threading. Using a tool with leverage to tighten something before it’s done up by hand as far as possible
Using metric keys/wrenches on imperial bolts and nuts (and the other way around).
Calvin is there anything I CAN'T repair with the HMR-4?
Thanks so much for this guys. As a You Tube certified mechanic, my education never included all the theory parts like this :)
This is super helpful stuff.
Also, gee I'm starting to dislike lock rings on disc rotors for this reason. Have a couple I want to take off, and getting decent purchase on a through axle wheel can be really tricky.
'YOuTUbe CeRtified MecHanIc' lol
Just wait till you encounter a T47 BB. Similar width of engagement to a rotor lockring but torque spec is 50Nm. Naturally Park have a new tool to help
Where does the hammer come in, my spokes keep braking even though I'm hammering in tight. How much more force do I have to use?!
Glad I'm not the only one spinning the THH-1 like a helicopter
I even added a drop of lube so it spins better.
I use the stool for everything 👍
#5 was one of the first things I'd ask a new hire to do if they said they wanted to work in the shop, and not just on the floor.
I watched as my friend used my set of master link pliers to put tension on the shift cable when adjusting his derailleur. He told me he knew what he was doing… (I had to adjust it for him)
What does Calvin (or anyone, really) think of Barnett's position that threads should not be extended on a fork unless all other options have been exhausted? The Barnett's DX also says the FTS-1 should also not be used to cut new threads into a fork unless you absolutely have to and that if you do, only cut 1/4 turn of new threads every 15 minutes! That means if you want to cut 1 inch of new threads it would take 24 hours to complete! The DX literally says that "cutting new threads with the FTS-1 is and incorrect use of the tool." Just curious of anyone's thoughts...
Many forks have had threads successfully extended with the FTS-1. It is an expandable die, and it is designed to be opened as much as possible for a first pass. It is then reduced for 3 more passes, cutting a bit more each time. This does not duplicate a lathe cut, but does give good serviceable threads.
@@parktool Thanks for the reply!
Chain tools make the best hammer!
not using as advised is not the same as using incorrectly.
I had to grind my socket to remove a bolt in a zero clearance hole. I had to sharpen my screwdriver to fit the slot in a screwhead.
I used heat to bend my breakerbar into a shape that could access a tight location.
All not as advised..
ohh so that's what you use to remove centerlock rotors, too bad my local bike shop used the wrong tools and ended up breaking their tools
Whenever I see someone grab an adjustable wrench, it absolutely drives me insane. Might as well use channel locks on that bike.
naw, adjustables are fine if you use them right, just make sure you haven't confused the standard for the metric varieties. also, adjustables wont mar the surface like a channellock or exhaust your hand by having to squeeze to keep em in place.
The thumbnail lmao 🤣
I feel like I'm using my TW-5.2 wrong or it's way out of calibration. It's brand new and I can never get it to click.
The click is pretty quiet and only moves a few degrees.
Watching an adjustable wrench used upside down once more might put me in a room with rubber walls
I've been misusing bike tools for 50 yrs but the worst was not taking the crank bolts out before removing my Cook Bros bmx cranks in the 80s. Total junk afterwards 😬
That's impossible because I'm not crazy enough to buy park tool stuff. Overpriced maybe apart from bike stand however other brands doing as good job for cheaper.
They were hammering star nut into a threadless fork with a Philips head screw driver a hammer.
😳
the crank puller is an extra large fidget spinner, prove me wrong
Pfft everybody knows that "Special" tool is really just a hammer with added features.
Im the only tool I own.
The key to tool use is to engage one's brain before engaging the tool. Think about not just what you wish to accomplish with the tool, but also what could go wrong. For example, go through the motions of loosening a very tight nut or bolt without the tool, and see where your hands will wind up if the tool slips. I've avoided many knuckle injuries, and saved damage to parts and tools, by applying this process.
this is basically exactly the thought process of orthopedic surgery too
Lefty loosy righty tighty
@@kevinruiter8715 With bikes, not always. In fact, every bike has at least one thing that's lefty tighty.
What’s the park tool part number for a brain? I’m not sure I have that tool…
@@rangersmith4652 two things if you have a threaded bb . Forwards to tighten backwards to loosen with bike up the right way .
Top tip, assess where your bodily extremities may end up if the tool slips. Particularly important when working around anything pointy like a cassette or chainring. Scrubbing drivetrain grime out deep cuts is never fun.
Top Tip #2: It's not always lefty-loosy. I learnt this expensively the first time I tried to remove a BB cup from a frame. Destroyed the cup, bent a breaker bar, and almost trashed the BB itself.
On the subject of applying leverage I wonder if you also agree that certain jobs (removing BBs, cranks, and pedals) is best done on the ground, particularly if you don't have a pro-level workstand.
Yes, the ground is your friend for applying pressure!
Took use timing: the last time you want to use a tool is immediately after you have messed something up a little bit…great chance of messing a lot! Instead, go for the coffee-drinking tool and sit on the butt-supporting tool until you have stopped swearing and are calm enough to use the skill inflation / thinking tool again. Seriously though, the most recent mistakes I have made have all happened when I was too impatient to go get my reading glasses (which I only ever needed after turning 50), and tried to do something without actually being able to see!
Man, I’ve seen Calvin okay it so straight for so long. I had no idea he was so funny.
Can we have a video on the proper use of Vice-grips for polished aluminum parts?
Cloth
Calvin you are simply the best. I review parktool videos and I always look at your first. Never been disappointed.
My favourite was not having the correct hex bit, so I'll try that star shaped one, whatever the hell that is.
Well done me. Well done.... Moron!
Check your surroundings when you're going to crack a nut or screw too. Consider where your arm is going to go. You don't want your arm to move past or into anything sharp after you crack the fastener.
This is especially true if you're working on machinery with cutting tools in it, not just chain sprockets.
Or around the sensitive ears of wife and kids! @##№$h¡7 😉😆😆😆
Calvin, if you were listening attentively to a teacher in school as I know you did when you were in school, wouldn’t you find music distracting? There is no need for music in your excellent videos. It is distracting and does not add anything. It also doesn’t help that I have a minor hearing impairment.
That last tip, “bring the tool levers together”, is excellent. I’m guilty of making that mistake myself. Why struggle? Seems like common sense, but I never really thought about it before. Thanks Calvin!
Use the mechanical advantage, Luke!
Lude my mate always lubes his bike wrong
7 seconds into the video and I had to hit the like button.
You can use the smaller (square taper) crank extractor to remove octalink and isis cranks, you just need to put something in there to cover the hole in the spindle, there are adapters for this specific purpose. Some crank extractors also have interchangeable feet to match the cranks being extracted.
Phillips screwdrivers will eventually round out derailleur adjustment bolts/screws so instead of buying a JIS screwdriver (the proper tool for this), I find that it is easier and cheaper to just replace the OEM bolts with hex socket head bolts and use allen keys
easiest makeshift type of adapter for isis cranks is an adequately sized counterhead screw. been there, done that.
All I see is a wall of hammers. 😅
Proper positioning of a crow’s foot on a torque wrench. Gotta be 90° to the shaft, if placed straight out off the end, the torque setting will be off.
Anything can be a hammer
As a retired auto tech/instructor I couldn't even start to list all the misuse of tools or the use of the wrong tool. good video.
a hammer fixes everything
@@jamble7k At least once :-0
THH-1s are helicopters, no matter what Park Tool says
Man you guys sure have a lot of funky lookin' hammers.
I need to see if any of my Park Tools talk in Calvin's voice next time I am in the garage!
Rubber hammer fixes all problems.
It's always nice, too to know which way to turn the tool. There are always exceptions to Righty tighty, lefty loosey. I spent many a wasted minute turning the wrench the wrong way.
Thank you Calvin and Park Tool for the advice and the many great tools over the years. We run a community bike shop. Our tools get used by people of all skill levels. Park Tools work best and hold up the best. A few we have found out the hard way that care is rewarded, and the lack of care ends up in broken tools or worse. Chain tool tips are a good example of this. All in all, Park makes the best and most appropriate tools for the job. I do have one complaint, perhaps an objection to the idea that we're using the tools wrong. We work on a lot of tired old bikes, either repairing or parting out. So of course, removing cheap MTB freewheels is a regular thing. We have broken numerous FR1.3 tools in doing this. They just crush and split, either in the vise or adjustable wrench. Inside a 1 inch box wrench they survive a little longer. But the packaging and the video for the tool show using a large adjustable to spin off a freewheel. The 1.3 is not strong enough. What works to do this? My trusty 20 year old FR1.1, or a small socket wedged inside the 1.3 for support. I don't want to return any more of these. I wish the tool was stronger! Thanks for the tools, support, and videos!
While park tool is truely great, companies like Wera make outstanding quality tools.
@@flawless7019 Wera doesn’t sell freewheel socket.
One technique I've seen is to mount the tool in a bench-vise and then set the wheel on top of it. Then you can use the wheel itself as your lever to loosen the freewheel.
@@DennisWurster Thanks, Dennis, yes we use this technique as well. Without something to reinforce the center of the FR1.3 it can crack and fail in the vise too. I think we're up to 4 or 5 that we've had fail in the shop in 3 years. We also have now a 1 inch socket modified with flats on the outside, so it can be clamped in the vise and hold the tool without slipping. Seems to work, with a few spacer washers inside it for correct engagement height.
Hold your torque wrench from the middle of the handle!!!
I'd go back to square taper BB in a heartbeat if I could. I don't like Hollowtech 2. Octalink wasn't bad. I run a M970 crank that (as far as I know) is the only one that exists in the form factor it does - it's got a 24mm Hollowtech 2 size spindle and thus it works with all Hollowtech 2 bottom brackets, but it has a far more chunky mating surface, quite like an Octalink.
Also, this crankset doesn't have the typical (and stupid) 2 bolt system found on HT2 cranks (where the bolts strip, ruining the left crank arm) for tightening, it has just one huge bolt that gets tightened to 40Nm on the left crank. I love it.
You might wonder why I use it, if I "would go back to square taper in a heartbeat" - well because my bike has a stupid press fit BB shell and thus, I have got a Praxis Works converter on it (PF30 to HT2) and that's why I have to run a HT2 spindle... Praxis Works just don't make a converter from PF30 to square taper and even if they did, I don't think it would be sensible in a press fit shell.
The old M970 crank is the best design I have seen, whereas the most recent HT2 cranks have a weak mating surface and the M5 bolts that say 12Nm on them often strip. I mean isn't it obvious why? M5 bolts (or maybe they are M6) and 12Nm don't go together well! The max I'd say a M6 bolt should be taking is up to 8Nm. Design flaw.
Why not use the M980 crank since it's newer? The chainrings are a proprietary BCD, whereas the M970 is standard 64/104 BCD. There isn't a better triple crankset for MTB other than the M970.
My biggest problem is not allocating enough time to do the work
I broke the plastic needle "Proboscis Tube" of the Park Tool TSI-1 sealant syringe months ago. I see that it's $1.83. I'll get around to buying it some time.
I’ve seen people put mid bottom bracket bearings in with a claw hammer instead of a park tool rubber hammer 🤦♂️
Would be worth mentioning considering the handle path of the pedal spanner when it suddenly comes loose - i.e. making sure you don't send your fingers straight into a chainring.
absolutely. it was kind of unintentional, but the name "teeth" is certainly fitting.
Torx are not Allen, and vice versa. Safety Torx, which have a center pin, require special Torx.
I think the worst is using cone wrench for pedal removing... ugh
the worst I do is using anything large enough as a hamer
Calvin, thank you for making this video. I’ve rounded out a few bolts in my time but I didn’t realize there were so many ways to use tools wrong! My worst offense is using a. TW-5.2 torque wrench at bad angles because of a tight angle. Is there a better tool to use for tight spots?
I'm new to mountain biking, but I swear I've seen video's with this guy labeled at least 7 years ago, and he looks exactly the same.
I always install and remove pedals (and crankarms) with the wheels on and the bike on the ground. That way I can position the tool to allow me to push down towards the ground, using my body weight to apply force and the drivetrain and tires to hold the crank arm in position.
torquing down a hex screw with a ball end hex wrench = rounding off
I’m not using my park tools wrong…I can’t afford them so there’s no way I’m using them wrong
Use of a crescent wrench to tighten spokes. Spoke wrench, better choice.
i grew up BMXing. and installing a-headset cups and those press-fit bottom brackets with a hammer and a piece of a 6x6 post was normal in the 90's
They also all double as hammers, punches, and pry bars
Interesting. The part about tool placement could have been shot from a better angle: we don't see the right placement a lot.
Wrongly*
Wrong is an adjective, you need an adverb for the verb "using".
You're using out tools wrongly.
It's just a RUclips video title so I think we can be a little informal.
When I first got my chain whip, I accidentally turned my sprocket the wrong way, overtightening it. I eventually had to sheepishly take it to my local shop for them to get it loose again.
4:10 For safety, I put the rim in a vise and prevent it from turning with a piece of wood through the spokes. Air tools help a lot too.
Tool misuse.... Not plugging the phone in😋🤣
I'd like a talking pet chainwhip alligator to encourage me to use tools properly. Will Park Tool sell me one?
A cheap screwdriver on limit screws! #%%#@@!*. Cheap tools are never cheap.
It's not so much that it is cheap but a different standard. JIS and Phillips have a different engagement, use the wrong one and it will slip.
When I was head mechanic at one shop that was shared with an outdoor shop, the outdoor people often used my JIS screwdrivers to make product displays. So one day, I bought a decent quality screwdriver for every one of them. When I handed them their screwdriver, I told them that if they came for my screwdriver again, we were going to fight. My beautiful screwdriver would last THEM one use before they damaged it. It would last me many years.
JIS cross-slot derailleur limit screws don't play well with US Phillips screwdrivers (it's not you; it's a different standard). If you don't have the JIS screwdriver, the screws are generally also slotted for a small straight blade. Try it; the gods will be pleased.
Yes we do, see www.parktool.com/en-us/product/derailleur-screwdriver-dsd-2
Also the case for stroke adjustment on some Shimano MTB brake levers. Only JIS will do, a standard Phillips will cam out and destroy the screw (and potentially scratch your lovely titanium-look XTR levers). I'm pleased current Shimano mechs have finally switched to hex head screws for limit adjustment.
Turns out all those hammers I own have other uses!
I, no wait, a person i know uses the small foot crank arm puller on octalink bb by putting a drift punch inside the bb which pushes against the bolt on the other side.
I've got one!! Hex keys and soft steel bolts. AVOID BALL END HEX KEYS on high-torque applications. Example would be crank arms and derailleur cable bolts. Ball end hex keys can twist in the fitting and lodge in, possibly marring the threads or allowing bad engagement with the bolt. USE NORMAL, FLAT HEX KEY sockets for proper tool engagement and to get the proper torque spec. on your proper components.
Also; when driving on large bolts e.g. cranks or pedals, use a large driver. It's difficult and unsafe to try to load 30-40nm with an allen key - step up to hex key sockets with a 3/8" ratchet driver for much safer and more effective tool use and result.
Sales guy vs web dude!! Classic!!
I reamed a seattube yesterday....
I use my Park Tools CM-5.3 chain cleaner to clean my neckties and suspenders. Win!
Calvin looks like he needs a vacation from taking phone calls
That is an awful thumbnail.
Using a knife as a tyre lever, using a rotor alignment tool to straighten a bent rim, using needle nose pliers to unscrew a perfectly good stem bolt, removing the self extracting bolt from self extracting cranks and wondering how to remove them, 3D printing a dust cover to stop a BB from unscrewing, someone else taking rubber rim tape and peeling it apart when you look away, when the left pedals doesn't screw in the right crank, use the wrench harder. Some fun.
Absolutely fatastic tube.... Thanks. It made my day....
Calvin or the awesome Park Tool team… what do you say to a little trip to Fiji to help a super bloke and his 2 sons get set up with a much needed bicycle repair shop (they don’t have one there). Boy would that make a good video and be a great trip out for you guys plus being the main sponsor for the growing cycling community in Fiji of course 😉