I love how you start off in this video jolly and determined and with each mount just get progressively more and more pissed off (rightfully so) until you're repeatedly calling the third mount a "chunk of shit" lololol. Helpful video forreal tho. Now I'm seriously contemplating if I even wanna replace these damn mounts...
😆😆😆I look back and laugh, it's one of those moments I seriously contemplated welding those mounts so they'll never come loose again and that would be the only time I ever had to change them out, especially that damned rear mount.
Glad to help, I figured someone could benefit from the headache we have to go through to keep these cars going. Good luck with the project, these cars are pretty much an ongoing project lol.
Thanks for the inspiration! Replaced the front, tranny and rear. the passenger side was done a few months ago by a mechanic. I removed the air box and the battery and was able to pull the rear mount through all the wiring behind the air box. I ran into trouble putting it back in. I couldn't get it to line up and drop the bottom stud at the same time. Finally I loosened the front mount and realized it's adjustable. I went for the lower setting and it lined the rear mount, bingo. it was a satisfying project , thanks to your guidance.
LMAO, it always starts that way til reality sets in then it's like, "Why TF am I doing this??", or "Scree this car, I'm getting back in the old school!"
Well that was 3 days I will never get back! I finally got mine installed, by the end of yesterday I was ready to scrap the car! Things I “learned”: 1) take off air box and intake piping up to the throttle body for the best view and access. 2) loosen or remove the left and right engine mounts while doing the rear, engine sump on one Jack and gearbox on a second. 3) not only did I grind and remove the 3 studs that cam on my new mount, but I used an angle grinder to remove a bunch of excess base flange that it came with (I traced the outline of the old mount and used that as a template- the extra metal would have made it impossible to fit into the gearbox bracket). The studs were replaced by suitable bolts and nuts which were relatively easy to access for tightening. 4) (and this was crucial), disconnect both shift linkage cables if you have a 5sp. I struggled for a while and watched several videos before I managed to get mine disconnected, but it made a HUGE difference so was worth it. I found that end cutting pliers were the best tool to pull the little retaining plates up, still challenging cause mine were corroded to the cables. Not a job for the faint of heart or the short of time and patience. I’m not sure how a garage without lots of practice could have done this job without costing a fortune! A curse on the designer of this mount arrangement!
I'm right there with you, I was cussing the dipshits who designed every part of the system. I already realized their intent was to make it where one would have to disconnect the whole K member and jack the car off the thing, which is ridiculous. Even the way the wire harness was routed inside the intake plenum without no way to unplug the stupid thing really pissed me off. I think I took 2 weeks, working on the thing a little here and there so I can be confident all is done right. I felt like you did, told the ole lady if this thing didn't work I'm pushing this POS in the ditch on fire 😆😆😆.
It really ticked me off when no video really gave me insight to how to get the rear mess off, it was one of the times I was really hating that car despite it being one of my more liked newer cars....
For the front and driver side it really helped to lift the motor from the front. I was using the rear and it just wasn’t limiting it enough. So I used the block of wood and oil pan. For the rear I lifted towards the back. I couldmt get the rear out from above until I took out the exhaust spring bolts. That gave me just enough play. Thanks for the video. Couldn’t have done it without the help.
I just replaced the one in the rear. It was a pain in the ass. Took me 5hrs just removing s pipe and loosening the bracket. The front one is next and it seems to be easier. Thanx for the vid
That rear one is ridoculous, I never had that much of a headache just trying to get tools in to reach. The front is a dream, passenger side is a little annoying. Drivers side more annoying cuz of the battery tray covering it, the rear, oof.
Yeah that rear mount look like its going to be fun. I'm grateful you made a video for this and I am glad I read the comments as well. I replaced the passenger mount and am waiting for the other 3 to arrive, I think my plan of attack will be to remove the front mount then loosen the drivers mount then replace the rear before replacing the drivers and finally the front in that order.
Dude excellent video.... I was cracking up when you were talking about that rear mount ... I just subscribed to your channel Definitely worth a subscription....
@kr3wskat3r33 If kind words weren't involved you prob didn't do something right lmao. But since it was, and you finished, then everything went according to plan lol.
Great video helped me out a lot doing my motor mounts did 3 of them cuz I did not want to deal with the rear mount so I payed someone to do that one lol
I feel you about the rear mount...I had to grind off the extra threads on the long stud to get clearance but had better luck unbolting exhaust and removing that direction instead..Thanks for the vid👍
Imagine changing the transmission seal or main seal between transmission and the motor 😂 putting back together was a mf but glad my dad helped me out. Anyway good video 👍 been thinking of putting polyurethane mounts on my scion hoping they last forever
I just gpt through changing a front seal on our tracker and that's RWD. I ended up changing the rear main and the Crank sensor that's located behind the flywheel, even though they were still good. I do not want to have to pull the transmission again cuz one of those components decide to quit shortly after doing the other one. Doing this on the scion is a nightmare as I had to replace the engine a while back and if I remember, I changed the transmission seal just because. No way do I want to have to go back in there again 😫😫😫
Thanks! Ive been putting off changing my engine mounts for a little bit cause i couldnt find any videos to elaborate what has to be done. And yeah… other videos make it seem easy. I may film as well just to show more thoroughly how to get this crap out. Also i will probably recommend what parts may be needed cause chances are you’ll probably have to replace the hoses attached to the power steering pump if they break off and then you’re dead in the water if you have to go get (god forbid order and wait) for new ones. Cheers!
Yes please film it. The more details we get the better. I need to do this job as well and I find it a bit intimidating. If I could only have some assurance that it will make a big difference then that would be enough for me to do it. I have a very annoying chirping sound that is coming from the right engine mount. If I put a large screwdriver on the steel part of that right mount and put a little weight on it the chirping sound stops so I believe the sound is coming from that right mount that is on the passenger side of vehicle.
It's always good for more people to document these types of things, sometimes we need several perspectives to get enough insight to get the job done right.
6:13 Everyone hates those clamps!! But there are much better than the other ones! Those can expand around the clamp when the car heats up. Very important to keep those spring loaded ones on radiator hoses especially if the top and bottom of the radiator is made of plastic. Car warms up and things expand and the top of the radiator housing cracks.
I was trying to take out the transmission mount. While removing an 18 year old rusted nut one of the studs broke, it was just spinning freely. I tried vice grips but no luck. I spend 4 hours drilling it out of the frame, it was a nightmare.
One of the most common issues with this 2AZ engine is the notorious engine vibration specially when the AC is on. Did you have that issue before changing the mounts? Could you share with us whether changing the mounts has had any impact on that?
The engine does have more vibration with the ac on, as for differences, it's still there as far as the engine trying to shake but the new mounts keep it from excessively shaking but the core issue is still there.
@@bullisht1443 I just discovered something. I filled up the tank with Chevon Super Unleaded in Tijuana Mexico of all places and much of the vibration is gone even with AC on. This must be because of the higher compression due to the carbon built up on the pistons. The higher octane is helping the engine run smoother. Also I wonder if their fuel is ethanol free. If so then that might also have something to do with it. So if piston soaking to remove the carbon might indeed bring the pistons closer to factory specs which could very well help it to run smoother without the use of higher octane fuel.
There was definitely noise, mainly at acceleration, but the biggest test was putting the engine in drive and watching how it moved when it engaged, showing how bad everything was.
My 06 has 255 k miles debating if this endevour will be worth the hassle. This would be my first “big fix” might just go for it for the learning experience. Thing has been vibrating a lot under load since I got it at 180k smh
I can understand, I like the cars but IMO the engines are crap compared to others out of the Yota line, if I could do it easily I'd swap another powerplant into this body.
I have been driving my 07 scion for the last year with no front motor mount. The whole motor basically moves like three inches when put in reverse. So much so it'd literally blow a fuel pump fuse every time I put it in reverse. (weird, right?) It moves a lot when put in drive too, but not nearly as bad as reverse. Anyway, because the engine was doing that, it pulled the transmission hoses off, and drained out the transmission fluid. Now, the car isn't shifting right. (Auto trans) did I fuck it up beyond repair? The engine code it threw was for the speed sensor or something like that.....or maybe not that maybe the shift something. I can't remember. But do you think if I fix that it'll be ok?
Damn....I would hope the trans isn't pooched from running dry but if it's throwing a code for the speed sensor hopefully that component is just a little smoked. I'd verify what that code is saying and maybe look at the shifter linkage to make sure nothing is bent or misaligned there as well. I'm not 100%sure if there's any kind of feedback hardware on the shifter that might let the computer know what's up. One other thing I'd look at is the wire harness plugging into the trans. Especially if fuse were popping, maybe the circuit that the trans is on is the same circuit as the fuel pump and now a wire (or wires) are damaged and not allowing power to the trans solenoids. I'd check all those "easy" things before pulling gloves off to tackle a trans. Good luck, and I hope you get it straightened out.
Not it's nowhere near as bad, engine doesn't buck around anymore. Only vibrations are of course the normal old engine movements, and that's a whole other animal...
@@TheImprovisationCenter , Yeah I'll be taking my time for sure. But before I do that I need to change out the water pump in my 2014 Subaru Outback, I've changed more things in that car then my 2005 Scion tC. Right now I'm mostly driving my Scion tC for now til I get more of the stuff in my Subaru serviced and then switch off. I must say my 2005 Scion tC has been a pretty reliable car which has 166k miles vs my subaru which has 124K miles.
@haywardkong1213 I can understand that, I can concur that ours has been more than reliable with the engine making it to 220k before the rod bearing issue that resulted in the engine swap. It could've been prevented if oil was constantly added everyday as this is a food delivery car but this engine had recalls a long time ago for the same oil consumption issue. Luckily the new engine had been "corrected", so all should be well.
Hey I got to change the transmission mount on top by the battery. My question is do I jack the transmission up under the transmission pan or do I jack up behind transmission pan
I would try to jack on either the bellhousing or at one of the other solid points around the bellhousing. Not that I never did use the pan with a block of wood but something about plastic oil pans scares me....
You don't have to remove all that stuff on the passenger side top. Overflow reservoir and the power steering reservoir both move off to the side without being disconnected. You can snake out the mount with some jack action on the engine.... raise it up. It will come out.
I only removed those items to eliminate the possibility of damaging any hoses, whether AC lines or power steering lines since too much flexing and bending has compromised these hoses for me due to their age while performing work in these areas.
I got some cheapo mounts off fleabay. I would have to say they didn't last as long as I felt a mount should. I haven't tried anything from auto zone or similar so I couldn't gauge their quality against the ebay stuff.
@@TheImprovisationCenter Thanks for the info. I'm gonna buy 2 OEM mounts but I can't find the right passenger mount OEM from anywhere under $200..My car is only worth 2k...😆
Do you have a video of the engine running after the mounts were replaced. (Is it noticeably less virbratey and not moving around as much) We just purchased one of these cars used. And it’s looking like they are gonna need to be replaced.
I unfortunately don't have an after shot, I will admit that the job kicked my butt enough that it totally slipped my mind to show the thing running. I was ready to go inside and chill after that job.
Well, I WAS going to replace all the motor mounts on my girl's car, but now I'm thinking I'll start with the easy ones and see if they help the problem!
Worst case if one can't be found, places like tractor supply or ace have grade 8 bolts in standard sizes that can come close to the size and length, if no other options are available. It would prob end up being around a 7/16" or maybe 1/2" size bolt. At least a grade 8 will more than hold up.
@@TheImprovisationCenter I changed wheel bearings and inner/ outer tie rods in a gravel drive way with limited tools, had to make a run for bearings but it took me 10 hours to do that
I love how you start off in this video jolly and determined and with each mount just get progressively more and more pissed off (rightfully so) until you're repeatedly calling the third mount a "chunk of shit" lololol. Helpful video forreal tho.
Now I'm seriously contemplating if I even wanna replace these damn mounts...
Also I'm impressed you did all of them in even 5 hours. It's gonna take me a full damn day.
😆😆😆I look back and laugh, it's one of those moments I seriously contemplated welding those mounts so they'll never come loose again and that would be the only time I ever had to change them out, especially that damned rear mount.
I absolutely love this guy. I can feel his pain and frustration. Man needs am Oscar for documentary film making 😂
I can honestly say thank you for these videos. These cars are a pain to maintain. Thank you for the videos.
Glad to help, I figured someone could benefit from the headache we have to go through to keep these cars going. Good luck with the project, these cars are pretty much an ongoing project lol.
Thanks for the inspiration! Replaced the front, tranny and rear. the passenger side was done a few months ago by a mechanic.
I removed the air box and the battery and was able to pull the rear mount through all the wiring behind the air box. I ran into trouble putting it back in. I couldn't get it to line up and drop the bottom stud at the same time. Finally I loosened the front mount and realized it's adjustable. I went for the lower setting and it lined the rear mount, bingo. it was a satisfying project , thanks to your guidance.
Glad to help, also good to hear you found another approach to that troublesome rear mount as well.
The beginning of the video you were so optimistic, that changed quickly lol. Thanks brother!
LMAO, it always starts that way til reality sets in then it's like, "Why TF am I doing this??", or "Scree this car, I'm getting back in the old school!"
Almost every car i worked on.
Every video: “Its as simple as replacing-“
Fuck no it isnt.
Well that was 3 days I will never get back! I finally got mine installed, by the end of yesterday I was ready to scrap the car! Things I “learned”: 1) take off air box and intake piping up to the throttle body for the best view and access. 2) loosen or remove the left and right engine mounts while doing the rear, engine sump on one Jack and gearbox on a second. 3) not only did I grind and remove the 3 studs that cam on my new mount, but I used an angle grinder to remove a bunch of excess base flange that it came with (I traced the outline of the old mount and used that as a template- the extra metal would have made it impossible to fit into the gearbox bracket). The studs were replaced by suitable bolts and nuts which were relatively easy to access for tightening. 4) (and this was crucial), disconnect both shift linkage cables if you have a 5sp. I struggled for a while and watched several videos before I managed to get mine disconnected, but it made a HUGE difference so was worth it. I found that end cutting pliers were the best tool to pull the little retaining plates up, still challenging cause mine were corroded to the cables. Not a job for the faint of heart or the short of time and patience. I’m not sure how a garage without lots of practice could have done this job without costing a fortune! A curse on the designer of this mount arrangement!
I'm right there with you, I was cussing the dipshits who designed every part of the system. I already realized their intent was to make it where one would have to disconnect the whole K member and jack the car off the thing, which is ridiculous. Even the way the wire harness was routed inside the intake plenum without no way to unplug the stupid thing really pissed me off. I think I took 2 weeks, working on the thing a little here and there so I can be confident all is done right. I felt like you did, told the ole lady if this thing didn't work I'm pushing this POS in the ditch on fire 😆😆😆.
finally a video that actually helps & the rears are really a pain
It really ticked me off when no video really gave me insight to how to get the rear mess off, it was one of the times I was really hating that car despite it being one of my more liked newer cars....
I'm doing these 4 mounts this coming week. I always love your videos, they help and entertain me at the same time.
You have my sympathy 😆😫😆😫, and thank you for your support!
For the front and driver side it really helped to lift the motor from the front. I was using the rear and it just wasn’t limiting it enough. So I used the block of wood and oil pan.
For the rear I lifted towards the back. I couldmt get the rear out from above until I took out the exhaust spring bolts. That gave me just enough play.
Thanks for the video. Couldn’t have done it without the help.
Glad to help!
I just replaced the one in the rear. It was a pain in the ass. Took me 5hrs just removing s pipe and loosening the bracket. The front one is next and it seems to be easier. Thanx for the vid
That rear one is ridoculous, I never had that much of a headache just trying to get tools in to reach. The front is a dream, passenger side is a little annoying. Drivers side more annoying cuz of the battery tray covering it, the rear, oof.
Yeah that rear mount look like its going to be fun. I'm grateful you made a video for this and I am glad I read the comments as well. I replaced the passenger mount and am waiting for the other 3 to arrive, I think my plan of attack will be to remove the front mount then loosen the drivers mount then replace the rear before replacing the drivers and finally the front in that order.
Dude excellent video.... I was cracking up when you were talking about that rear mount ... I just subscribed to your channel Definitely worth a subscription....
Appreciate that!😁😁😁
Great video!!! I have 2006 & 2008 Scion tc and both need motor mounts. Now I know what to do.
Thank you for this. Just bought all 4 mounts. Wish me luck!
Just gotta take your time, and be ready to pause for a minute when things get complicated. I find I throw less tools that way, lol.
@@TheImprovisationCenter finished…. This job was a nightmare. But saved me 900$
Cursing was definitely involved 😆
@kr3wskat3r33 Good job, in the end the satisfaction of saving a shitload of money always trumps the aggravation that lead up to the completion.
@kr3wskat3r33 If kind words weren't involved you prob didn't do something right lmao. But since it was, and you finished, then everything went according to plan lol.
Watching this is like watching myself work on cars, I’m always cussing up a storm 😂
Lol, that was lightweight cussing
Excellent video with good explanations. Thank you!
Thanks for the "Heads up", Honestly, I will be making an appointment with mechanic.
I can understand, sometimes these jobs end up being like that. Me, I'm a glutton for punishment...
Great video helped me out a lot doing my motor mounts did 3 of them cuz I did not want to deal with the rear mount so I payed someone to do that one lol
I was almost at that fuck it moment with the rear, I was willing to have to replace the other 3 more often just to not mess with the rear, lol
I feel you about the rear mount...I had to grind off the extra threads on the long stud to get clearance but had better luck unbolting exhaust and removing that direction instead..Thanks for the vid👍
You're welcome, I did look at the exhaust approach at first but ended up going the way I did, it was a lose/lose situation.
Imagine changing the transmission seal or main seal between transmission and the motor 😂 putting back together was a mf but glad my dad helped me out. Anyway good video 👍 been thinking of putting polyurethane mounts on my scion hoping they last forever
I just gpt through changing a front seal on our tracker and that's RWD. I ended up changing the rear main and the Crank sensor that's located behind the flywheel, even though they were still good. I do not want to have to pull the transmission again cuz one of those components decide to quit shortly after doing the other one. Doing this on the scion is a nightmare as I had to replace the engine a while back and if I remember, I changed the transmission seal just because. No way do I want to have to go back in there again 😫😫😫
Thanks! Ive been putting off changing my engine mounts for a little bit cause i couldnt find any videos to elaborate what has to be done. And yeah… other videos make it seem easy. I may film as well just to show more thoroughly how to get this crap out. Also i will probably recommend what parts may be needed cause chances are you’ll probably have to replace the hoses attached to the power steering pump if they break off and then you’re dead in the water if you have to go get (god forbid order and wait) for new ones.
Cheers!
That's exactly where I stood with the job, I was pissed that no one elaborated on how to deal with the most problematic parts of the job.
Yes please film it. The more details we get the better. I need to do this job as well and I find it a bit intimidating. If I could only have some assurance that it will make a big difference then that would be enough for me to do it. I have a very annoying chirping sound that is coming from the right engine mount. If I put a large screwdriver on the steel part of that right mount and put a little weight on it the chirping sound stops so I believe the sound is coming from that right mount that is on the passenger side of vehicle.
It's always good for more people to document these types of things, sometimes we need several perspectives to get enough insight to get the job done right.
6:13 Everyone hates those clamps!! But there are much better than the other ones! Those can expand around the clamp when the car heats up. Very important to keep those spring loaded ones on radiator hoses especially if the top and bottom of the radiator is made of plastic. Car warms up and things expand and the top of the radiator housing cracks.
Yea it's a double edged sword with those clamps...
I’m about to have to replace that right hand mount. Gonna hate my life 😂 thank you for the insight and tips tho
Lol, have fun. Long as you have the "right" tools, it might not be as aggravating for you, maybe,😆😆😆
@@TheImprovisationCenter brother, I got hand tools🥲 same stuff I use to work on helicopters
@@Curly_Boi sounds like you're ready to rock and roll then, don't get too pissed off with it like I did lol.
I was trying to take out the transmission mount. While removing an 18 year old rusted nut one of the studs broke, it was just spinning freely. I tried vice grips but no luck. I spend 4 hours drilling it out of the frame, it was a nightmare.
Damn...
I love your video keep up the good work man
Thanks bud, appreciate that!
One of the most common issues with this 2AZ engine is the notorious engine vibration specially when the AC is on. Did you have that issue before changing the mounts? Could you share with us whether changing the mounts has had any impact on that?
The engine does have more vibration with the ac on, as for differences, it's still there as far as the engine trying to shake but the new mounts keep it from excessively shaking but the core issue is still there.
@@TheImprovisationCenter thank you for your reply sir 👍🏼
Definitely something i noticed when i bought the car and now i can see it excessively shake
Would piston soaking to break the carbon, flushing the engine, and cleaning the tb help with the vibration?
@@bullisht1443 I just discovered something. I filled up the tank with Chevon Super Unleaded in Tijuana Mexico of all places and much of the vibration is gone even with AC on. This must be because of the higher compression due to the carbon built up on the pistons. The higher octane is helping the engine run smoother. Also I wonder if their fuel is ethanol free. If so then that might also have something to do with it. So if piston soaking to remove the carbon might indeed bring the pistons closer to factory specs which could very well help it to run smoother without the use of higher octane fuel.
Do you recall if there was a clunking sound that indicated the mounts might be bad? Especially when going over moderate bumps.
There was definitely noise, mainly at acceleration, but the biggest test was putting the engine in drive and watching how it moved when it engaged, showing how bad everything was.
My 06 has 255 k miles debating if this endevour will be worth the hassle. This would be my first “big fix” might just go for it for the learning experience. Thing has been vibrating a lot under load since I got it at 180k smh
I can understand, I like the cars but IMO the engines are crap compared to others out of the Yota line, if I could do it easily I'd swap another powerplant into this body.
I have been driving my 07 scion for the last year with no front motor mount. The whole motor basically moves like three inches when put in reverse. So much so it'd literally blow a fuel pump fuse every time I put it in reverse. (weird, right?) It moves a lot when put in drive too, but not nearly as bad as reverse. Anyway, because the engine was doing that, it pulled the transmission hoses off, and drained out the transmission fluid. Now, the car isn't shifting right. (Auto trans) did I fuck it up beyond repair? The engine code it threw was for the speed sensor or something like that.....or maybe not that maybe the shift something. I can't remember. But do you think if I fix that it'll be ok?
Damn....I would hope the trans isn't pooched from running dry but if it's throwing a code for the speed sensor hopefully that component is just a little smoked. I'd verify what that code is saying and maybe look at the shifter linkage to make sure nothing is bent or misaligned there as well. I'm not 100%sure if there's any kind of feedback hardware on the shifter that might let the computer know what's up. One other thing I'd look at is the wire harness plugging into the trans. Especially if fuse were popping, maybe the circuit that the trans is on is the same circuit as the fuel pump and now a wire (or wires) are damaged and not allowing power to the trans solenoids. I'd check all those "easy" things before pulling gloves off to tackle a trans. Good luck, and I hope you get it straightened out.
Oversize chunk of shit and from there, it escalated really quick..good job brother.
Does it still vibrate in gear and at idle.. Did the new mounts change much ?
Not it's nowhere near as bad, engine doesn't buck around anymore. Only vibrations are of course the normal old engine movements, and that's a whole other animal...
Thanks for the video.. I'll probably do the two easiest mounts first.
Glad to help, just take your time and it won't be too annoying.
@@TheImprovisationCenter , Yeah I'll be taking my time for sure. But before I do that I need to change out the water pump in my 2014 Subaru Outback, I've changed more things in that car then my 2005 Scion tC. Right now I'm mostly driving my Scion tC for now til I get more of the stuff in my Subaru serviced and then switch off. I must say my 2005 Scion tC has been a pretty reliable car which has 166k miles vs my subaru which has 124K miles.
@haywardkong1213 I can understand that, I can concur that ours has been more than reliable with the engine making it to 220k before the rod bearing issue that resulted in the engine swap. It could've been prevented if oil was constantly added everyday as this is a food delivery car but this engine had recalls a long time ago for the same oil consumption issue. Luckily the new engine had been "corrected", so all should be well.
Hey I got to change the transmission mount on top by the battery. My question is do I jack the transmission up under the transmission pan or do I jack up behind transmission pan
I would try to jack on either the bellhousing or at one of the other solid points around the bellhousing. Not that I never did use the pan with a block of wood but something about plastic oil pans scares me....
You don't have to remove all that stuff on the passenger side top. Overflow reservoir and the power steering reservoir both move off to the side without being disconnected. You can snake out the mount with some jack action on the engine.... raise it up. It will come out.
I only removed those items to eliminate the possibility of damaging any hoses, whether AC lines or power steering lines since too much flexing and bending has compromised these hoses for me due to their age while performing work in these areas.
Totally get it. Thanks for the video. Just pointing this out for others. @@TheImprovisationCenter
Do you remember what brand of motor mounts you used? Where you got them. Were you happy with them and did they last? Thanks Again..
I got some cheapo mounts off fleabay. I would have to say they didn't last as long as I felt a mount should. I haven't tried anything from auto zone or similar so I couldn't gauge their quality against the ebay stuff.
@@TheImprovisationCenter Thanks for the info. I'm gonna buy 2 OEM mounts but I can't find the right passenger mount OEM from anywhere under $200..My car is only worth 2k...😆
Do you have a video of the engine running after the mounts were replaced. (Is it noticeably less virbratey and not moving around as much)
We just purchased one of these cars used.
And it’s looking like they are gonna need to be replaced.
I unfortunately don't have an after shot, I will admit that the job kicked my butt enough that it totally slipped my mind to show the thing running. I was ready to go inside and chill after that job.
Well, I WAS going to replace all the motor mounts on my girl's car, but now I'm thinking I'll start with the easy ones and see if they help the problem!
I would completely understand, I was there with that decision myself....
Does anyone know the OEM part number for the passenger mount under the power steering reservior? Thanks
Just call any auto zone and explain the make and model, the part you need and they’ll give you the part number.
Does anyone know what size that big bolt is for the rear mount? I need a new one of those but I can't find it.
I forgot what size head exactly, something like a 16 or 17mm I believe...
Worst case if one can't be found, places like tractor supply or ace have grade 8 bolts in standard sizes that can come close to the size and length, if no other options are available. It would prob end up being around a 7/16" or maybe 1/2" size bolt. At least a grade 8 will more than hold up.
Ok thanks so much man!!!!
No problem
Este video me ayudó muchísimo con eso tips
Happy to help out
Sooooo relateable.
Is it tread or thread
Thread
Third motor mount fuck it.
Lmao, I was almost there!
Looks like 2009 Scion XB 😳
🐻🇱🇷👍
5 hours ain’t that bad lol
For a minute I thought I was too slow in that job lmao.
@@TheImprovisationCenter I changed wheel bearings and inner/ outer tie rods in a gravel drive way with limited tools, had to make a run for bearings but it took me 10 hours to do that
@@simonramirez243 I feel your pain....
Lol 5 hours
I love you video man keep up the good work
Thank you! There's always gonna be something with these cars that needs to be done, and documented so maybe others won't have to struggle.