Nice use of tools. Would suggest for Northeast climates to use deck tape for under tread wood on wood to prevent underside rot and get longer life. In TX likely not an issue. You make great projects and tutorials.
Ah my lovely wife and I went through that wonderful post setting process for our shed as well. Good job you two working together without poking each other in the eye!
April always delivers awesome projects. This is no exception: real redhead...knows how to work a crowbar...a sawsall...and a propane torch...hubbs better make sure he stays on her good side.
Wonderful episode. Have missed your educational efforts So Proud of you, setting an admiral example, regarding safety APRIL you truly LEAD by example Keep up the good work in 2021
@ 12:14 ....thanks for mentioning your lack of code-compliant handrail....BUT, you can STILL INSTALL one that is GRIPPABLE...definitely a vital (sometimes literally) component to a proper staircase. You all did a great job on this project, though. Thanks for walking us through and sharing the details.
That's very beautiful. An extra idea , you can close the sides of first 10 steps of below the staircase with adding a door become a garden tool storage. Nice job
That palm nailer though! Very neat! Thank you for this video. Makes the task of taking on a staircase build less daunting after watching your videos. I'll be prepared and, well, with a little luck, my math will work out on the first try. 😂 Awesome video April!
Hidden under the "skirt" of the stairs, i'd add on the span that's connected to the house, two lengths of wire to keep it tensioned and pulled into the house. Just as a long term precaution, to keep things from moving, which they do, and to relieve any kind of stress on the actual structure, where the break/switch is.
Job Well Done, young lady. Speaking as an old, arthritic master hasbeen, I see that there is some padding on that palm nailer, if its not enough, i recommend adding a bandana. Those damn nailers will hurt you, in the long term. Love your channel. You're doing a fine job.
Those are some great looking stairs 👌. I'm not a big fan of stain but the one that you chose is an almost perfect match to your deck. Y'all did a great job! Keep the great videos coming 👍. Thanks for sharing and God bless
Re your comment about code and your choice to ignore. As you said check the code. You will find that the handrails should extend one tread width +12" beyond the bottom of the stair. They don't end at the newel post. Landings have guardrails not handrails and guard rails should be 42" tall. The grip type hand rail can be added on brackets below the top of the handrail. This next one gets a little technical and requires visualization. The first tread at the top of each run should be level to the landing. This allows the stringer to have full purchase to the header. Simpson has solved the problem with the connector that you used but if this was being built in steel the shop detailer would change the design to allow for a full welded connection. And let you know all about it! FYI Simpson makes a connector for this design also LSCZ. Their install drawings show the correct detail And I also like the idea of the post anchors. I don't like putting wood in concrete. The concrete acts as a cup that holds water accelerating the rot process. Packing the hole with dry sand works really well as the dry sand expands when it gets damp securing the post. (this from Norm on TOH)
Nice rebuild on the stairs. I am glad to see you using American wood products. Lots of people are using IPE and other non-sustainable rainforest wood. Yeah, Ipe - most of it is 100+ years old and being installed in locations where it only lasts 20 years at most.
Thanks for the Stain and Seal endorsement. I’ve been using One-Time stain and sealer and it’s costly ($85 a gallon) and takes days to dry due to having to be UV treated in the sun. Couldn’t find drying times for this product, so I may contact company. Like the fact it’s low in VOC so I can apply in basement and ready to use when dry. Living in NY is getting cold now and shorter days cause longer curing time. Thanks again for another well explained and interesting project. 😉
I love the place where you live. Texas seems to be very peaceful and nice to live. I live in France and we don't have this weather and this proximity to nature. By the way, very good job for the stairs. It will be far more robust than the old one, will last much longer and the look is definitely nicer.
Thats insane how shallow the posts holes were. I absolutely love the pecan color. 😍 this staircase came out great, which is not surprising seeing all the other videos that I've watched that you've done.
Great episode! One question tough, why dont you use a impact driver instead of a drill for screws? i find it abit more noisy yes, but the lack of tourqe on your wrist is worth it for me.
Instead of Jacob latter it's Jacob stairs and thank you for showing tutorial on stairs because it helps please keep making more of these awesome videos
I´d never put wood into the ground, posts should sit above the concrete in supports made of galvanized steel. Dad build a few things that way: Two small porches from ´82 (untreated lumber, just varnished) are still in perfect condition, every ten years or so the coatingr gets a refresh. A carport from ´86 had its pressure-treated posts painted just once - right after they were build. It still stands strong (the facia boards don´t look that good though). The pergola of the same vintage had to be replaced last year, it had rotted only from the top, down low it wasn´t perfect, but still reasonably ok for it´s age, sitting in plants and our weather (western Germany).
When carving stringers on a CNC router a clearance hole is carved in the corner the rise and runs. I would do this by hand as a round hole does not weaken wood like a square corner.
Not sure I understand the full benefit of the Postsaver sleeves with out also sealing up the bottom end grain of the post. Seems to me the post will just wick up moisture from the end of the post.
I haven't used the sleeves but based on my experience, posts tend rot out in the top foot or so below the ground. Most likely rain water either pools at the surface or penetrates a few inches to a foot into the ground. Yes the end will still absorb some moisture, but if you've installed gravel to help with drainage and then cemented around the post, it should be minimal or no worse than the exposed ends above ground. The Postsaver sleeve then protects the most vulnerable portion of the wood. Postsaver's website has information about this as well: www.postsaver.com/products/pro-sleeve-fence-post-protection/
In Europe we make concrete basis with steel support on it so wooden pillars are always lifted from the ground at least 12 cm. That’s the way to preserve wood.
That is a thing some people do here as well and some people do build like that. But it does add a lot of cost and the need for more cross bracing. Plus this method will last 30+ years and in all likelihood the rest of the structure will need to be replaced by then.
I always look forward to your videos to see what cool thing you’ve worked on. I’m amazed those old stairs were still standing. That looked dangerous. I thought I heard you say the upper balcony was in equally bad shape. So I guess I’m curious from a build standpoint why you would repair the stairs first. If you are going to have to tear down the upper balcony won’t that mean your brand new staircase will need to be reattached to a new upper deck? Also curious on choice of treated wood versus something like Trex for the treads as in your treehouse patio project. Given the Texas heat I would think maybe the trex would be more durable and lower maintenance. Just curious. Always trying to learn. Keep up the great work and these videos.
she would be doing more than a weekend project, if we could get that help(nobody helps anyone anymore) it would be for full repairs on my home, oh well.
Spend the $200 for an auto-leveling line laser. Preferably in green. It makes work faster, easier and more Accurate. Still use strings, but spirit levels are becoming obsolete in the construction industry. Friendly FYI. Love the videos
April, you and your crew did an awesome job building your new stairs. Your new stairs are "Rock Solid" (built on rock) which I'm sure will last the test of time very well. I would say at least 50+ years, since you used all treated materials, did your research, and built it very strong (Strong Ties). See what I did there...lol. ;)
like my old house. HUGE 800 sqft deck, not a single thing done with PT wood and no above ground footers so all the posts just sat to the frost line. And they did this everywhere on the house, front porch included.
Did you let your Pressure Treated Lumber dry out before staining and sealing? Usually it takes roughly 3 months. Our PT wood we get here in Georgia is mostly wet and heavy.
man i've worked in construction, and some of the wild shit you see hold houses and decks together after you demo it is crazy.
Been watching you a long time!
From someone who never used a power tool, to owning your own business, you've come a long way!
Great video April! It was wonderful to hear your mama in the end. I miss her in your videos! 😊
Whoa, don't know why but you building stairs is one of the most satisfying things ever! 😁
You did fantastic work, April! Thank you for sharing the Fence Armor lineup, glad we could help with this build.
Nice touch explaining building code for the top rail on the hand railing.
@11:47 beast mode activated! :) That post saver produce was really cool, never seen that before.
👍 correct
I like the site supervisors coming over to inspect your work. : )
I agree with a miter saw station! I do the same thing for every job! From decks to siding to trim inside. Great job and good work!
All the builders in here are so lucky! I miss working like this.
Great job! Some LED Solar Lights might be a bonus, if you use the steps at night?
Nice use of tools. Would suggest for Northeast climates to use deck tape for under tread wood on wood to prevent underside rot and get longer life. In TX likely not an issue. You make great projects and tutorials.
Love 💖 from Egypt April 💕
Stain & Seal Experts Deck Stain and sealer looks nice
Ah my lovely wife and I went through that wonderful post setting process for our shed as well. Good job you two working together without poking each other in the eye!
I built my first set of stairs and a ramp for a shed a couple months ago with the help of your videos. Thanks.
The quality of these videos is amazing
April always delivers awesome projects. This is no exception: real redhead...knows how to work a crowbar...a sawsall...and a propane torch...hubbs better make sure he stays on her good side.
Wonderful episode. Have missed your educational efforts
So Proud of you, setting an admiral example, regarding safety
APRIL you truly LEAD by example
Keep up the good work in 2021
@ 12:14 ....thanks for mentioning your lack of code-compliant handrail....BUT, you can STILL INSTALL one that is GRIPPABLE...definitely a vital (sometimes literally) component to a proper staircase. You all did a great job on this project, though. Thanks for walking us through and sharing the details.
I love you attention to detail and knowledge of great products. The hanger brackets are genius! Thanks for sharing.
Great job you folks. It’s great to see well built sturdy stairs. They turned out great. Thanks for sharing with us, Fred.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
those support posts you knocked over from the original stairs were terrifying
What a beautiful staircase! I loved the ending, waving in the dark with headlights! Great job everyone!
Last a decade? Well I certainly hope so! My deck is going on 30 years and it is still as sound as the day I built it!
Wow great job April 👌
My first video I saw of yours it was you building a staircase!!!
Awesome job April! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Looks great April.... Like always !!
That's very beautiful. An extra idea , you can close the sides of first 10 steps of below the staircase with adding a door become a garden tool storage. Nice job
Good job April, looks great!
That palm nailer though! Very neat! Thank you for this video. Makes the task of taking on a staircase build less daunting after watching your videos. I'll be prepared and, well, with a little luck, my math will work out on the first try. 😂 Awesome video April!
Awesome!!! Looked like fun. No time change here in AZ
Hidden under the "skirt" of the stairs, i'd add on the span that's connected to the house, two lengths of wire to keep it tensioned and pulled into the house. Just as a long term precaution, to keep things from moving, which they do, and to relieve any kind of stress on the actual structure, where the break/switch is.
Bravo April👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👸❤❤❤❤❤❤❤And Jacob too👌🏼🤙🏼
What a beautiful stair case.
Job Well Done, young lady. Speaking as an old, arthritic master hasbeen, I see that there is some padding on that palm nailer, if its not enough, i recommend adding a bandana. Those damn nailers will hurt you, in the long term. Love your channel. You're doing a fine job.
Amazing video, April! Thanks for the mention!
Real cool, great job April, Keep up the great work. I always enjoy your great videos. Reminds me of the stairs you help build a few years ago...
Well done. Looks great.
Those are some great looking stairs 👌. I'm not a big fan of stain but the one that you chose is an almost perfect match to your deck. Y'all did a great job!
Keep the great videos coming 👍.
Thanks for sharing and God bless
Nice build!
Re your comment about code and your choice to ignore. As you said check the code.
You will find that the handrails should extend one tread width +12" beyond the bottom of the stair. They don't end at the newel post.
Landings have guardrails not handrails and guard rails should be 42" tall.
The grip type hand rail can be added on brackets below the top of the handrail.
This next one gets a little technical and requires visualization. The first tread at the top of each run should be level to the landing. This allows the stringer to have full purchase to the header. Simpson has solved the problem with the connector that you used but if this was being built in steel the shop detailer would change the design to allow for a full welded connection. And let you know all about it! FYI Simpson makes a connector for this design also LSCZ. Their install drawings show the correct detail
And I also like the idea of the post anchors. I don't like putting wood in concrete. The concrete acts as a cup that holds water accelerating the rot process. Packing the hole with dry sand works really well as the dry sand expands when it gets damp securing the post. (this from Norm on TOH)
Nice work i do this daily on metal but had no idea on how to make it on wood …thanks a lot!!!
I’ve been here since that first set of stairs💪🏻
Nice rebuild on the stairs. I am glad to see you using American wood products. Lots of people are using IPE and other non-sustainable rainforest wood. Yeah, Ipe - most of it is 100+ years old and being installed in locations where it only lasts 20 years at most.
Thanks for the Stain and Seal endorsement. I’ve been using One-Time stain and sealer and it’s costly ($85 a gallon) and takes days to dry due to having to be UV treated in the sun. Couldn’t find drying times for this product, so I may contact company. Like the fact it’s low in VOC so I can apply in basement and ready to use when dry. Living in NY is getting cold now and shorter days cause longer curing time. Thanks again for another well explained and interesting project. 😉
beautiful set of stairs, thanks...
I love the place where you live. Texas seems to be very peaceful and nice to live. I live in France and we don't have this weather and this proximity to nature. By the way, very good job for the stairs. It will be far more robust than the old one, will last much longer and the look is definitely nicer.
Thats insane how shallow the posts holes were. I absolutely love the pecan color. 😍 this staircase came out great, which is not surprising seeing all the other videos that I've watched that you've done.
Gorgeous great job!
Those chickens were soo much help
Nice work as always April 👍🏼😬
The video quality is amazing, it like looking through a window!
Did I see Mama staining in the background?
Great job, once again.
Take Care and God Bless
Was any of the old wood worth keeping for scrap
Less than 4” between the spindles is also required in the triangle of space between the tread, riser, and bottom of the railing.
The code says a 6” ball should not fit through there.
Great episode! One question tough, why dont you use a impact driver instead of a drill for screws? i find it abit more noisy yes, but the lack of tourqe on your wrist is worth it for me.
Hammer drill.
Looks amazing
Super work !. enjoy all of your videos ! I probably would have put your 4x4s on conic concrete stanchions, to insure that you will have no rot issues.
Instead of Jacob latter it's Jacob stairs and thank you for showing tutorial on stairs because it helps please keep making more of these awesome videos
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed it.
I´d never put wood into the ground, posts should sit above the concrete in supports made of galvanized steel.
Dad build a few things that way:
Two small porches from ´82 (untreated lumber, just varnished) are still in perfect condition, every ten years or so the coatingr gets a refresh.
A carport from ´86 had its pressure-treated posts painted just once - right after they were build. It still stands strong (the facia boards don´t look that good though).
The pergola of the same vintage had to be replaced last year, it had rotted only from the top, down low it wasn´t perfect, but still reasonably ok for it´s age, sitting in plants and our weather (western Germany).
When carving stringers on a CNC router a clearance hole is carved in the corner the rise and runs. I would do this by hand as a round hole does not weaken wood like a square corner.
That's a great idea. You want to eliminate any moisture - dwelling points.
3 days, looks like no more than 3 people and limited tools? I'd say y'all did a heck of a job!
Not sure I understand the full benefit of the Postsaver sleeves with out also sealing up the bottom end grain of the post. Seems to me the post will just wick up moisture from the end of the post.
I haven't used the sleeves but based on my experience, posts tend rot out in the top foot or so below the ground. Most likely rain water either pools at the surface or penetrates a few inches to a foot into the ground. Yes the end will still absorb some moisture, but if you've installed gravel to help with drainage and then cemented around the post, it should be minimal or no worse than the exposed ends above ground. The Postsaver sleeve then protects the most vulnerable portion of the wood.
Postsaver's website has information about this as well: www.postsaver.com/products/pro-sleeve-fence-post-protection/
Looks beautiful! Nice improvement
Great job! Looking forward to the deck replacement.
Impressive !~~. Love your videos & explanations....
Thank you! Glad you enjoy them. Thanks for watching.
April, you're an inspiration!
Great Work. #STAYSAFE #KEEPBUILDING
In Europe we make concrete basis with steel support on it so wooden pillars are always lifted from the ground at least 12 cm. That’s the way to preserve wood.
That is a thing some people do here as well and some people do build like that. But it does add a lot of cost and the need for more cross bracing. Plus this method will last 30+ years and in all likelihood the rest of the structure will need to be replaced by then.
April you build alot cool stuff. Iv got questions from you. Could do some tool review,on one you like that most? Thanks keep awesome worn up.
Another cool project and build video April, Your doing awesome! Thanks for sharing this one.
I normally use the 7/11 formula for the stairs/stringers but they were all for out-of-city uses so I don't know if they were against code in town.
I like the rachet fastening tool
I always use deck screws and lag bolts. Just makes for better construction that won't back out.
I always look forward to your videos to see what cool thing you’ve worked on. I’m amazed those old stairs were still standing. That looked dangerous. I thought I heard you say the upper balcony was in equally bad shape. So I guess I’m curious from a build standpoint why you would repair the stairs first. If you are going to have to tear down the upper balcony won’t that mean your brand new staircase will need to be reattached to a new upper deck?
Also curious on choice of treated wood versus something like Trex for the treads as in your treehouse patio project. Given the Texas heat I would think maybe the trex would be more durable and lower maintenance. Just curious. Always trying to learn. Keep up the great work and these videos.
No wonder you weren't at the Wood Shed this last week! Y'all we're very busy at your house.
😊🙏🤝🤝🤝🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩☕
Imagine having April come over to help with a weekend project.
she would be doing more than a weekend project, if we could get that help(nobody helps anyone anymore) it would be for full repairs on my home, oh well.
Very nice.
I love your channel.
And I love carpentry.
And the wood.
Doing that in 3 days is incredible!
Yikes! That old staircase was super dangerous. Glad no one was ever hurt.
Awesome job! And YES, it’s the best time to work outside in Texas...Lol
🙏🤝🤝🤝🇮🇩☕😟
nice one april
Fantastic work, April! 😃
Beautiful stairs! And beautiful house as well! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome!..I love watching you work!!..Thanks for sharing...
Spend the $200 for an auto-leveling line laser. Preferably in green. It makes work faster, easier and more Accurate. Still use strings, but spirit levels are becoming obsolete in the construction industry. Friendly FYI. Love the videos
April, you and your crew did an awesome job building your new stairs. Your new stairs are "Rock Solid" (built on rock) which I'm sure will last the test of time very well. I would say at least 50+ years, since you used all treated materials, did your research, and built it very strong (Strong Ties). See what I did there...lol. ;)
Nice job!
Watching from Australia, always interesting
Hi please can you take us back to. The basic and show us what saws are best for what love the vids bye
like my old house. HUGE 800 sqft deck, not a single thing done with PT wood and no above ground footers so all the posts just sat to the frost line. And they did this everywhere on the house, front porch included.
Looks amazing!!!
I think it would look nice to add some off white or yellow LED lights to the risers. would look nice at night
Wow, great job, it looks awesome.
Think I had vertigo from the thumbnail 😂 Inspiring work as always
Yess 👍👍
Did you let your Pressure Treated Lumber dry out before staining and sealing? Usually it takes roughly 3 months. Our PT wood we get here in Georgia is mostly wet and heavy.
will you be adding post reinforcements to the top flight of stairs? great job! thanks!
Nice job!!!
What did you do for the very bottom of the wood post to keep that from degrading due to touching dirt at the bottom of the hole?
Hopefully there was a few inches of 3/4 " gravel at the bottom of the holes.