Ha. No matter how simple things can be they make so much sense. Was at a gig and my sub was bottoming out. I just turned down the bass on the mixer board. Totally forgot that I would lose mid bass also. Thx!
I love your idiot proof explanations and examples, good stuff. However, I would say if you need more low end, instead of upgrading to a single 'better' powered sub, I would recommend adding another identical sub to your current rig. Subs work so much better in pairs rather than just a single, more powerful woofer working all by itself. And by doing so, you'd gain 3dB in output, with the best results being both subs coupled together instead of spread apart under your top cabs. Just be sure your subs are in phase with one another, otherwise the woofers would be working against each other and would drastically pull your overall dB down.
I can’t tell you how many people I’d see have their sub volume control up to 3 o’clock! (Where 12 is 0 dB) and the limiter light was basically staying on lol. They Weren’t very good subs to begin with. But this is a good video for people that don’t understand those things. They want more BOOM. But don’t wanna pay.
I understand why you would find that weird. I kind of did too, then I realized these were not only designed for DJs playing compressed pre recorded audio tracks. They are for things like live music as well. If a band is playing guitar, drums, & bass, the signals they are running thru these systems are not nearly as intense or low as, say a Hip Hop track engineered to dip way down on the frequency spectrum. Same goes for a DJ playing oldies tracks from the 50's, 60's & 70's. That's how I got my head around it, anyway, and the best solution I've found to this problem is to just turn it down a bit.
4- gain cnob on active speakers and subs ar not to play with volum, you do that from your mixer. Thouse cnobs are for regulate the sensitivity of speaker by the mixer you use. Some mixers have low output, and you need more gain on speaker, some others has to much power output and you must decrease gain on speakers. The right way is to tourn mixer master out to maximum, and tourn gain cnob on speaker till it will clipping ocazional. So you know that when you work at maximum volum on mixer, the speakers are not in danger.
Some of that is mid bass & some of that is sub bass. As far as louder subs go, you can "couple" two subwoofers together & get a lot more free "boom" , or upgrade to a more powerful subwoofer
Forget about U. S. budget brand. Look at RCF, FBT, Montarbo. They do best product in the class RCF 745, RCF HDM 45, FBT Mitus 152a, FBT Himaxx 60a, Promaxx 14a, Montarbo Fire 15mk2 (mk1 not good), Montarbo W17a. All this speaker crash JBL PRX, SRX or EV ELX, EKX, ETX. You must listen them to undrestand how good they are (RCF, FBT, Montarbo)
there is no rule - 5 or - 3db and also is not right to run top at full power and subs at - 5db here how it must be: 1 you compose a right balanced P. A. set, where tops ar tuned right to work with bas unit. You must use same series speaker and bass and compose a right set. If your tops have 133 max SPL, the bass must be 6db more. Thats why some speakers need 2x subs to archive a nice sounding sistem. 2 And if your speakers are diferent, you get in little trouble, you mas cranck up to max your subs, and after that slowly cranck the speaker volum till overall sound will be balanced, linear. After that you just take care on subs limiter led. Remember, you can use 130db max spl speaker with same power woofer, you will not feel/hear subs. As lower the frequency is, as lower we hear tham, is becouse of anatomic of human listening. Also there is no rule like 15" top need 18" sub, its all depends only by phonic pressure. And subs mus be 6db higher then top, to archive a nice/pleasent sound. So never look to watts, RCF has 700watt powered speaker that beat many other speakers like Mackie or EV that rated to 2000watts. The only thing is important - continious max SPL.
Been DJing for over 35 years & am still not an audio engineer. I am not telling anyone how anything "must" be. I am, however, sharing what is working for me, as a working DJ. If you think the average DJ will relate to or understand anything more than a simple explanation when trouble shooting common issues they may have, get ready for a whole lot of disappointment
@@briansredd as Trump describe in his book :).. "to be the best in your industry, you should know the most as posible, amd more than your concurent" Its not so complicate, when all your sound sistem is just 2 tops and 2 subs. But just as buttins and knobs on your DJ console, you must know how to set it up properly.
MY TIP 4 DJS : If i had to do it again i would consider buying two slightly smaller/lighter subs and pole mount two 12" tops on them for a clean symmetric look. That way my two subs could run with more head room and need less tripods. Right now I own one ETX 15" sub. It's a good sub. However the cabinet is really big and heavy for a 15" so there is no way i can fit 2 in my car and i often see the limiter activate after an hour or two of dancing... Just something to think about.
If you are running a 0db signal to your speakers and the sub bass sounds good, all is well. That limiter is just a protection thing where the sub is telling you it's at it's set limit & it's protecting you from distortion. A flashing limiter is OK & normal. Steady on means you should turn it down. Here's what EV has to say about it - PEAK limiter - The peak anticipation limiter protects the loudspeaker from short-term peaks which can cause distortion. Short-term blinking is not critical because the integrated limiter keeps distortion under control. Constant lighting of PEAK indicates the sound is negatively affected. Reducing the output volume (MASTER VOL) is strongly recommended to reduce gain.
Structural damage.....I love it. Great advice as usual Brian.
Ha. No matter how simple things can be they make so much sense. Was at a gig and my sub was bottoming out. I just turned down the bass on the mixer board. Totally forgot that I would lose mid bass also. Thx!
Glad this helped! Thanks for watching :)
hmm.... yeah let's destroy some church with a couple of L'acoustics KS28 😂👍
Thanks , good info , ETX EV's my dream Subwoofer (Way to Expensive though Lol)
Too expensive? Or, you can't afford it? :P
They're not that expensive to be honest. RCF, JBL VRX series, and Bassboss are insanely expensive speakers.
@@djmannyleon9204 It's all relative to your budget
Ernie Rodriguez QSC KW181 is only $1000 and it’s quite the sub for most events.
I love your idiot proof explanations and examples, good stuff. However, I would say if you need more low end, instead of upgrading to a single 'better' powered sub, I would recommend adding another identical sub to your current rig. Subs work so much better in pairs rather than just a single, more powerful woofer working all by itself. And by doing so, you'd gain 3dB in output, with the best results being both subs coupled together instead of spread apart under your top cabs. Just be sure your subs are in phase with one another, otherwise the woofers would be working against each other and would drastically pull your overall dB down.
I can’t tell you how many people I’d see have their sub volume control up to 3 o’clock! (Where 12 is 0 dB) and the limiter light was basically staying on lol. They Weren’t very good subs to begin with. But this is a good video for people that don’t understand those things. They want more BOOM. But don’t wanna pay.
I run my EV sub at -5 to -10 works awesome
which model and size you own?
It seems weird to me you would have to turn them down from 'default' if they already have headroom for the '+' side of the dial?
I understand why you would find that weird. I kind of did too, then I realized these were not only designed for DJs playing compressed pre recorded audio tracks. They are for things like live music as well. If a band is playing guitar, drums, & bass, the signals they are running thru these systems are not nearly as intense or low as, say a Hip Hop track engineered to dip way down on the frequency spectrum. Same goes for a DJ playing oldies tracks from the 50's, 60's & 70's. That's how I got my head around it, anyway, and the best solution I've found to this problem is to just turn it down a bit.
Now introducing DJ Destruction guaranteed to bring the house down.
4- gain cnob on active speakers and subs ar not to play with volum, you do that from your mixer. Thouse cnobs are for regulate the sensitivity of speaker by the mixer you use. Some mixers have low output, and you need more gain on speaker, some others has to much power output and you must decrease gain on speakers.
The right way is to tourn mixer master out to maximum, and tourn gain cnob on speaker till it will clipping ocazional. So you know that when you work at maximum volum on mixer, the speakers are not in danger.
What to do to get more of that thump you in the chest kick drum...?
Some of that is mid bass & some of that is sub bass. As far as louder subs go, you can "couple" two subwoofers together & get a lot more free "boom" , or upgrade to a more powerful subwoofer
Hello Brian, I have a pair of EV zxa 1 and was thinking of adding ekx 15 sp . What are you thoughts on using all 3 subs together for an event? Thanks.
Forget about U. S. budget brand. Look at RCF, FBT, Montarbo. They do best product in the class
RCF 745, RCF HDM 45, FBT Mitus 152a, FBT Himaxx 60a, Promaxx 14a, Montarbo Fire 15mk2 (mk1 not good), Montarbo W17a.
All this speaker crash JBL PRX, SRX or EV ELX, EKX, ETX.
You must listen them to undrestand how good they are (RCF, FBT, Montarbo)
I keep my EV 18" at half power and certain songs do create distortion, so I've natrually turned it down for the song
Sound advice lol
there is no rule - 5 or - 3db
and also is not right to run top at full power and subs at - 5db
here how it must be:
1 you compose a right balanced P. A. set, where tops ar tuned right to work with bas unit. You must use same series speaker and bass and compose a right set. If your tops have 133 max SPL, the bass must be 6db more. Thats why some speakers need 2x subs to archive a nice sounding sistem.
2 And if your speakers are diferent, you get in little trouble, you mas cranck up to max your subs, and after that slowly cranck the speaker volum till overall sound will be balanced, linear.
After that you just take care on subs limiter led.
Remember, you can use 130db max spl speaker with same power woofer, you will not feel/hear subs. As lower the frequency is, as lower we hear tham, is becouse of anatomic of human listening.
Also there is no rule like 15" top need 18" sub, its all depends only by phonic pressure. And subs mus be 6db higher then top, to archive a nice/pleasent sound.
So never look to watts, RCF has 700watt powered speaker that beat many other speakers like Mackie or EV that rated to 2000watts.
The only thing is important - continious max SPL.
Been DJing for over 35 years & am still not an audio engineer. I am not telling anyone how anything "must" be. I am, however, sharing what is working for me, as a working DJ. If you think the average DJ will relate to or understand anything more than a simple explanation when trouble shooting common issues they may have, get ready for a whole lot of disappointment
@@briansredd as Trump describe in his book :).. "to be the best in your industry, you should know the most as posible, amd more than your concurent"
Its not so complicate, when all your sound sistem is just 2 tops and 2 subs.
But just as buttins and knobs on your DJ console, you must know how to set it up properly.
IF YOU HAVE 2 18 SINGLE IS GOOD IF YOU HAVE 1 218 IS GOOD BUT 1 18 YOU CAN'T FILL THE BASS OK YOU NEED TO LEARN MORE
MY TIP 4 DJS :
If i had to do it again i would consider buying two slightly smaller/lighter subs and pole mount two 12" tops on them for a clean symmetric look. That way my two subs could run with more head room and need less tripods. Right now I own one ETX 15" sub. It's a good sub. However the cabinet is really big and heavy for a 15" so there is no way i can fit 2 in my car and i often see the limiter activate after an hour or two of dancing... Just something to think about.
If you are running a 0db signal to your speakers and the sub bass sounds good, all is well. That limiter is just a protection thing where the sub is telling you it's at it's set limit & it's protecting you from distortion. A flashing limiter is OK & normal. Steady on means you should turn it down. Here's what EV has to say about it - PEAK limiter - The peak anticipation limiter protects the loudspeaker from short-term
peaks which can cause distortion. Short-term blinking is not critical because the
integrated limiter keeps distortion under control. Constant lighting of PEAK indicates the
sound is negatively affected. Reducing the output volume (MASTER VOL) is strongly
recommended to reduce gain.
@@briansredd yes the sub bass sounds fine but the fact that im reaching that limiter means i'd be better off with 2 subs... someday I'll get there