It's totally possible for a subwoofer with a damaged amplifier to pass the RCA tap test and still produce low volume or muffled sound during normal operation. The RCA tap test, where you tap the end of a disconnected but powered RCA cable and listen for a thump from the subwoofer, is a basic way to test if the subwoofer's amplifier is receiving and amplifying a signal. However, if the amp is partially functioning or if certain frequency pathways are damaged, it might respond to this direct, hardwired signal but struggle to amplify more complex or subtle audio signals coming from your audio source, resulting in low volume or muffled sound. Tap test can sometimes be deceiving on a partially functioning amplifier.
Thanks so much for your video. I bought the Klipsch 12 inch SW, 2 years ago and it stopped working after 2 days. I got my $ back and bought a Polk 10 inch which is working still. I was afraid to open the unit up but now feel more at ease to give it a try. Thank you again.
Thanks bro, I appreciate you for this video. My SPL-150 just went out today after only having it a month 😣 I gotta do these tests but I’m pretty sure it’s the amp.
Very solid video. A bit wordy and long but the method for testing is nicely demonstrated. If you are handy but don't understand speaker technology this is for you. If you don't know where to begin, skip the video and take the speaker to a shop. This video is helpful to those who want to learn how!
Hey! Thank you for this video, it was helpful. However, I truly need some help. I have a Klipsch R12SW subwoofer, and I tried to connect it to my Vizio Soundbar. I connected the power source for the subwoofer into the outlet and it turned on with a light green colored LED light at the front signaling the subwoofer is on. My RCA cables are also plugged in to the subwoofer, and the USB is also connected to my Soundbar (I have a USB to RCA adapter). The subwoofer turns on and everything, but for some reason when I play some music, the subwoofer does not produce any bass. What is the issue here?
Thanks so much for this video! Very Helpful to me in diagnosing the trouble with me DCM15" 800WATT Powered Sub. Went through all steps to find that One of the speaker wire connections has come loose from the speaker. Going to try to Solder it back and see what happens! Thanks again! Blessings, S
All class D plate amps fail in subwoofers after a couple of years. Every one I have ever owned has failed from cheap components. I think I'll go for one of Dayton audio's class a/b external amps. Leave the old amp in place to cover the hole and feed the external amp speaker leads in through a small sealed notch.
Thank you for the guide! I took apart my sub (Kanto Sub6) because I did not get the feedback sound when touching the RCA cable. Turns out, the power connector inside was loose. I recently moves, so I think the vibrations shook it off.
Happy to help! Great to hear it was something simple to get you back up and running again. I've seen people throw out perfectly good subs in the exact same situation when a quick and easy diagnosis could have resolved. Good on you for digging in and fixing yourself! -Jason
My sub is powered by a Dayton SA-1000 that I initially had hooked up to the auto-on setting, but it stopped detecting a signal or something. So I switched it to always on, which is acceptable because even though it's class a/b, it has a switching power supply like a class D or Bob Carver design. But occasionally, the house will lose power for a while. It happens to everyone. The problem is, it is really hard to get the amp to work again. It powers up, but the speaker doesn't get a signal. For a time, I could just lightly touch the back panel's "always on/auto/12v trigger" switch, and it would make it come on. Eventually that trick quit working, and now I just have to toggle the power off and on until the sub finally pops in. I haven't taken it apart yet, but there are only a couple things it could be. Most likely that power-on mode switch itself I guess.
Thanks for watching! We didn't cover externally powered subs in this but, may get into those in the future. In your case, there are definitely a few different things it could be. I wonder if it's taken a hit or two in the past with the power losses/potential surges. Do you use a power conditioner of some kind with it? If you aren't able to diagnose or repair for a while and lose power frequently, as a band-aid solution, you could put the unit on a battery backup. This way, when you lose power, you have time to properly shut it down as opposed to it getting nailed each time. A lot of these units will also have protection built in so, will help prevent future damage as well. -Jason
Great video! Can i ask for advice - my R112SW shuts down on very low frequency on some specific parts in some movies. Like couple of them but still annoying when i have to replug my sub during movie night. Any suggestions where to look? My first guess would be some capacitor is dead ir dying
I don't know, I'd contact Klipsch support. Usually the only affordable fix is to just get a new amp, but that one is old enough maybe try to sell it for cheap while being honest about the condition, then get a shiny new RP-1200SW.
Appreciate the info, question..can an amp failure be intermittent? Is that common? I've got a Klipsch r-100sw (the only thing I bought new in my entire 9.3 system, and the only thing newer than about 2003, ironic it's the only thing to ever have issues lol). It will randomly not produce any sound. I will verify power, led light, gain, fuse, cord, ect..then randomly it'll start driving again. Spades are tight, no blown caps and can't find any shorts on the board. About to throw this thing in the garbage and stick with my 20 year old stuff that works just right. And if these have thermal shutdowns on them, that's not the issue. Half the time I realize its not pushing, it's after sitting all night and I'm just getting the barn music on for that day
my canton subwoofer is super low even with the gain all the up, I have a normal powered sub too and it works fine, the canton is a double 10" im pretty sure, and heavy asf, it passes the buzz test too.
While removing the plate amp from a Klipsch RW-12D, the red & black wires came off the driver. How do I determine which blade is positive or negative on the driver ?
I was given a used Klipsch sub RW-12. The previous owner said something was wrong with it. It makes a high-pitched woofing sound at medium to high volume, during explosions in movies. The sub is NOT blown. I removed 12" speaker from the box to check it. But as soon as I removed it from the box and tested it, there was no woofing. I suspect it could be the power cable. It's not the original cable. It's for a 3 prong device, probably for a computer. The original is a 2 prong cable with lower voltage, but it didn't come with sub. I think the improper cable may be supplying too much power and causing the sub to peak? Any thoughts?
Hi! Thanks for the video - very informative. I have B&W ASW610XP that was purchased 8 years ago in Europe. About 4 years ago we moved to the US and it was used for sometime with power converter. It was working just fine when I put it in a box for 3 years. Now that we are back to Europe I hooked it up to Marantz Cinema 60 and it does not work... I checked the power [ok], fuse [ok], cable test [ok] but my AVR does not recognize it. Would you have any idea what could be the issue? Thank you in advance!
Hi there n__n Nice video! I have a JBL SUB 138 and it is plugged with the LFE line to a Sony amp. The subwoofer works for a few minutes then there is not sound and then it can come back on (while never loosing power or loosing the LFE signal, just no sound from the sub). So the main issue is that it goes on and off at random X.x What do you think it could be? A faulty fuse? Keep up the great videos^^
Based on the description I would guess its an amp on its way out. Possibly overheating and locking up til it cools? You may also try alternate cables/receiver to rule those out too though. -Jason
Haven't ditched it, no. Still an idea we are considering but, putting brand against brand when you carry both is a touchy subject and will need to be handled carefully. Still hope to do this in the future though. -Jason
I just bought the klipsch spl 120 subwoofer. And when I connect the rca cables it hums. Can u let me know why? My previous polk subwoofer didn't do that at all.
i have that 115 When I connect my Node streamer to the Sub and the node is set to " output level fixed" then I can not use the Sub actually since immediately it starts booming immensely even with just a little bit volume adjustment on the Sub.. Is that a faulty volume adjustement knob or ???
Hello. I am looking for an electrical diagram (Service Manuals) for the Klipsch 112 SW subwoofer. Where to find it? As far as I know, Klipsch does not provide such information, even though their subwoofers, e.g. the 112 SW and R 112 SW models, are sold with defective amplifier modules. Best Regards SG
I'm seeking some help, please. I have the SPL150 for Seven months now. I played some music that was in no way loud two days ago before I left for work. I came back later in the day turned on the music via the AV receiver, the signal to turn on the sub was sent, as the LED indicator came on, but, no sound. I'm confused as to how it could register that the signal was sent but no sound
Can I get some help please? Not sure if it's cables or not. They're fairly new.... but I upgraded all of my surround. Even receiver. Problem I'm having right now I'm that my subs aren't working. I have 2 seperate powered subs ( one hasn't been used in quite awhile). They were working but recently don't. Tried plugging in the other and no sound. Both are showing powered on and green. Tried hooking to the other receiver as well and no sound. Could it be cable? Or are both sub power panels magically down? I don't know 🤷♂️ but I find it strange. Fuses are all good too.
Could be a number of things. Did you follow the steps in this video? Should help you diagnose and figure out what components are needed to resolve your issue. -Jason
Could be the case. The 12 in the video was actually intermittent before going completely out. It would reach a certain volume and then die off completely until you reset it so, sometimes these things happen prior to burning out completely. You may also want to look into the rest of your chain. Try with a different receiver and see if you get the same results. -Jason
I have a R-115 sw and it has been plugged in to continuous power for 3-4 years, it started making thumping noise every 2 secs, sent amp for repair and they have cut off the cables going to the 220 V-120 V switch, thumping is gone, so i guess that circuit had something to do with it. From searching on web, i found that these subs should not have continuous power, because the standby heat will diminish their lifespan, it basically dries out the capacitors. It should be disconnected when not in use. The problem might be fixed on SPL series, dont know. The amp Circuit board had markings indicating same amp in 12 and 10 inch R series. I think SPL and R series amps are swappable and they sell them online, refurbs and new, i would try repair first. I have now hooked it up through a master/slave outlet, the sub only gets power when TV switches on. If dismantling sub, be aware the connectors going to the speaker element, are locked, you need to push lock open to get them off, if you just pull you may break the board. Also the screws can not take much torque, they will strip the mdf if you apply only very little. The amp is incredible light for its power, switch power supply i guess helps. Its ideal for shipping it through mail 🙂. I have 2 AsP Ice 1000 w mono blocks and they weigh 20x the Klipsch amp, each.
I have a klipsch spl-120 and the same thing as the one in the video is happening to me, the led light turns on but the cable test does not emit any sound when touching the tip, my second step then seems to be the 9v battery test.
Hello, I’m in the same situation as you were when you wrote this comment. Were you able to resolve the issue? If so, please share the steps in detail, and I’ll replicate your steps to hopefully resolve the issue with mine as well. Thank you in advance!
9V has always been used and works well. Not entirely sure 1.5V ones are strong enough to visually make the cone pop out. Feel free to try it but I don't think it will do much.
I wanted a better look at the back of the amp. I had heard that if any of the round caps had a bulging top on them Then that may be where the problem is
Could you please kindly advise how to take speaker out from SPL-150 ? I took the screws out from the front side, but the speaker is still stuck on the box. Did they glue it ? Thank you.
They didn't glue it, no. That said, the paint can stick a bit when its been sitting/tightened for a long period and may need to be "motivated" to come out of the cabinet. You'll want to be careful not to damage the cabinet but you can pry with something soft and lean the cabinet forward to use the weight of the driver to help. It'll come but, doesn't always just fall out on its own once screws are loosened. -Jason
Hi .when I turn on my sub it make noise but never have sound, sometimes when I turn it off and then turn it on the led doesn't go on and it doesn't work . What should I do 😢
Contacting Klipsch customer service is your best bet. They may not have the original 112SW amp anymore but the SPL112 amp will be a functional swap in option and likely more readily available. -Jason
Hi, my Klipsch RSW 15 has a blown internal amp. My Sony DA3ES has a sub line out, could I take line out and hook it up to my Denon POA- 2200 line in, for my amp, then bi-amp the speaker signal, and hook it directly to my RSW 15” speaker, directly, for amplification? Would that work? Thanks, John.
We typically don't recommend modifying from the original form. Seek out an original amp from external sources where possible..... Buuuuut if you were so inclined, technically you could power the driver with an external amp, bypassing the internal amp and running a line through the cab and direct to the driver....You'll want to be careful though. With the paired amps, everything is mated/matched perfectly. With external amps, that's not the case. Additionally, If you cut a hole in the cabinet, you will also want to be sure and completely seal it off. -Jason
Really useful video - no new content in months, I really hope this channel has not folded. Great well edited content -please don’t go anywhere . I am troubleshooting my JBL subwoofer to see why it won’t power on. This video gives me a lot of insight about what to do but I have questions- are you guys still here ?
Thanks for watching! Yes, we are still here. We have run the show in seasons up to this point with a break between season one and two. The down time was just shooting and prepping new content. Intro/episode one just released in season 3 and we are back on with a regular weekly schedule. :) any luck with your sub? get it back up and running? -Jason
I have a Polk sub that doesn’t have a lfe port and my receiver does . It turns on and when I touch the cable to the sub you hear sound but when you plug it in Nothing . I tried a splitter and still nothing ? What’s your thoughts
Hi, I have a strange problem. I have connected single rca cable from my avr to the right input on the sub. However, when I pause the movie & play it back, it stops working. If I switch to left input then it starts working again. Can you please tell me what is wrong?
Strange problem indeed. How long are you pausing? Do you have your sub in auto or on mode? Is it long enough for the sub to enter a sleep mode if in auto? With the provided information, my assumption would be that the sub is going to sleep and when you unpause, the provided signal isnt enough to wake it. When you switch inputs, you get a buzz from tapping it on the metal which wakes it. If you leave your sub in on mode instead of auto, this should resolve *if* this is the issue. -Jason
I have a svs subwoofer my Amp is a Cambridge cxa81 at 80 watts per channel the Sub plays for awhile then all of a sudden gives out a Loud pop, What do i need to correct this.
The buzz test is designed to bypass the AVR so, if you are getting sound from touching the cable, *theoretically* this eliminates the sub as the issue and leads me to believe you are not getting signal to the sub. It should be more of a regular hum though as opposed to crackling. Could be that a component is on its way out and hasn't completely failed? What is the issue you are trying to diagnose? If no sound, It could be the AVR sub out is bad, but many times we find its just a settings issue. -Jason
@@TopShelfAudio I have a 2003 HSU sub and a NAD T765 AVR (maybe 2007?) I set this up after 10 years in storage. The sub was not sounding right, low volume and muddy and sometimes would not work at all unless I turned everything on and off. I assumed the sub was bad and shipped it back to HSU yesterday and then I bought a used Polk sub (and a new cable) The new sub does not work at all but makes that not so hummy sound when I buzz test it. The guy I bought the polk sub from says it works great and was never used much. I should get the diagnosis on the original HSU sub in a few weeks. Is it common for AVR sub outs to go bad? Thanks!
It's totally possible for a subwoofer with a damaged amplifier to pass the RCA tap test and still produce low volume or muffled sound during normal operation.
The RCA tap test, where you tap the end of a disconnected but powered RCA cable and listen for a thump from the subwoofer, is a basic way to test if the subwoofer's amplifier is receiving and amplifying a signal. However, if the amp is partially functioning or if certain frequency pathways are damaged, it might respond to this direct, hardwired signal but struggle to amplify more complex or subtle audio signals coming from your audio source, resulting in low volume or muffled sound.
Tap test can sometimes be deceiving on a partially functioning amplifier.
Thank you for taking the time in making this video, it is incredibly helpful!!
Thanks for watching and commenting! We love to hear these videos help. :)
-Jason
Thanks so much for your video. I bought the Klipsch 12 inch SW, 2 years ago and it stopped working after 2 days. I got my $ back and bought a Polk 10 inch which is working still. I was afraid to open the unit up but now feel more at ease to give it a try. Thank you again.
Thanks bro, I appreciate you for this video. My SPL-150 just went out today after only having it a month 😣 I gotta do these tests but I’m pretty sure it’s the amp.
Happy to help! Hopefully you get it back up and running quickly. Let me know how it goes!
-Jason
Were you able to resolve the issue? Please share in detail. Thank you in advance!
Very solid video. A bit wordy and long but the method for testing is nicely demonstrated. If you are handy but don't understand speaker technology this is for you. If you don't know where to begin, skip the video and take the speaker to a shop. This video is helpful to those who want to learn how!
Hey! Thank you for this video, it was helpful. However, I truly need some help. I have a Klipsch R12SW subwoofer, and I tried to connect it to my Vizio Soundbar. I connected the power source for the subwoofer into the outlet and it turned on with a light green colored LED light at the front signaling the subwoofer is on. My RCA cables are also plugged in to the subwoofer, and the USB is also connected to my Soundbar (I have a USB to RCA adapter). The subwoofer turns on and everything, but for some reason when I play some music, the subwoofer does not produce any bass. What is the issue here?
Thanks so much for this video! Very Helpful to me in diagnosing the trouble with me DCM15" 800WATT Powered Sub. Went through all steps to find that One of the speaker wire connections has come loose from the speaker. Going to try to Solder it back and see what happens! Thanks again! Blessings, S
nice.
All class D plate amps fail in subwoofers after a couple of years. Every one I have ever owned has failed from cheap components.
I think I'll go for one of Dayton audio's class a/b external amps. Leave the old amp in place to cover the hole and feed the external amp
speaker leads in through a small sealed notch.
The worst I've seen is about a 6% failure rate with a bad batch. Normal across the board is about a 3% rate.
Thank you for the guide! I took apart my sub (Kanto Sub6) because I did not get the feedback sound when touching the RCA cable. Turns out, the power connector inside was loose. I recently moves, so I think the vibrations shook it off.
Happy to help! Great to hear it was something simple to get you back up and running again. I've seen people throw out perfectly good subs in the exact same situation when a quick and easy diagnosis could have resolved. Good on you for digging in and fixing yourself!
-Jason
My sub is powered by a Dayton SA-1000 that I initially had hooked up to the auto-on setting, but it stopped detecting a signal or something. So I switched it to always on, which is acceptable because even though it's class a/b, it has a switching power supply like a class D or Bob Carver design. But occasionally, the house will lose power for a while. It happens to everyone. The problem is, it is really hard to get the amp to work again. It powers up, but the speaker doesn't get a signal. For a time, I could just lightly touch the back panel's "always on/auto/12v trigger" switch, and it would make it come on. Eventually that trick quit working, and now I just have to toggle the power off and on until the sub finally pops in. I haven't taken it apart yet, but there are only a couple things it could be. Most likely that power-on mode switch itself I guess.
Thanks for watching! We didn't cover externally powered subs in this but, may get into those in the future. In your case, there are definitely a few different things it could be. I wonder if it's taken a hit or two in the past with the power losses/potential surges. Do you use a power conditioner of some kind with it?
If you aren't able to diagnose or repair for a while and lose power frequently, as a band-aid solution, you could put the unit on a battery backup. This way, when you lose power, you have time to properly shut it down as opposed to it getting nailed each time. A lot of these units will also have protection built in so, will help prevent future damage as well.
-Jason
Great video! Can i ask for advice - my R112SW shuts down on very low frequency on some specific parts in some movies. Like couple of them but still annoying when i have to replug my sub during movie night. Any suggestions where to look? My first guess would be some capacitor is dead ir dying
I don't know, I'd contact Klipsch support. Usually the only affordable fix is to just get a new amp, but that one is old enough maybe try to sell it for cheap while being honest about the condition, then get a shiny new RP-1200SW.
Useful video, but just when it was about to get exciting (trouble shooting the amp), the video stopped.
Thanks for the help with my Klipsch subwoofer!
you're welcome
Thanks so muich. I just took out the minijack and touch it with my finger, and putting it in again.
Appreciate the info, question..can an amp failure be intermittent? Is that common? I've got a Klipsch r-100sw (the only thing I bought new in my entire 9.3 system, and the only thing newer than about 2003, ironic it's the only thing to ever have issues lol). It will randomly not produce any sound. I will verify power, led light, gain, fuse, cord, ect..then randomly it'll start driving again. Spades are tight, no blown caps and can't find any shorts on the board. About to throw this thing in the garbage and stick with my 20 year old stuff that works just right.
And if these have thermal shutdowns on them, that's not the issue. Half the time I realize its not pushing, it's after sitting all night and I'm just getting the barn music on for that day
yeah, it can, loose connection or whatever. happens all the time.
my canton subwoofer is super low even with the gain all the up, I have a normal powered sub too and it works fine, the canton is a double 10" im pretty sure, and heavy asf, it passes the buzz test too.
cool
While removing the plate amp from a Klipsch RW-12D, the red & black wires came off the driver. How do I determine which blade is positive or negative on the driver ?
Thank you. And where to locate the fuse box on that spl150? Thanks
I was given a used Klipsch sub RW-12. The previous owner said something was wrong with it. It makes a high-pitched woofing sound at medium to high volume, during explosions in movies. The sub is NOT blown. I removed 12" speaker from the box to check it. But as soon as I removed it from the box and tested it, there was no woofing.
I suspect it could be the power cable. It's not the original cable. It's for a 3 prong device, probably for a computer. The original is a 2 prong cable with lower voltage, but it didn't come with sub. I think the improper cable may be supplying too much power and causing the sub to peak? Any thoughts?
Hi! Thanks for the video - very informative. I have B&W ASW610XP that was purchased 8 years ago in Europe. About 4 years ago we moved to the US and it was used for sometime with power converter. It was working just fine when I put it in a box for 3 years. Now that we are back to Europe I hooked it up to Marantz Cinema 60 and it does not work... I checked the power [ok], fuse [ok], cable test [ok] but my AVR does not recognize it. Would you have any idea what could be the issue? Thank you in advance!
Thank you for your info. You may have just saved me some money!
Hi there n__n Nice video! I have a JBL SUB 138 and it is plugged with the LFE line to a Sony amp. The subwoofer works for a few minutes then there is not sound and then it can come back on (while never loosing power or loosing the LFE signal, just no sound from the sub). So the main issue is that it goes on and off at random X.x What do you think it could be? A faulty fuse? Keep up the great videos^^
Based on the description I would guess its an amp on its way out. Possibly overheating and locking up til it cools? You may also try alternate cables/receiver to rule those out too though.
-Jason
Did you guys ditch doing a competition between the SPL-150 and PB 2000 Pro? I'd like to see that.
Haven't ditched it, no. Still an idea we are considering but, putting brand against brand when you carry both is a touchy subject and will need to be handled carefully. Still hope to do this in the future though.
-Jason
I just bought the klipsch spl 120 subwoofer. And when I connect the rca cables it hums. Can u let me know why? My previous polk subwoofer didn't do that at all.
i have that 115 When I connect my Node streamer to the Sub and the node is set to " output level fixed" then I can not use the Sub actually since immediately it starts booming immensely even with just a little bit volume adjustment on the Sub.. Is that a faulty volume adjustement knob or ???
Hello.
I am looking for an electrical diagram (Service Manuals) for the Klipsch 112 SW subwoofer.
Where to find it?
As far as I know, Klipsch does not provide such information, even though their subwoofers, e.g. the 112 SW and R 112 SW models, are sold with defective amplifier modules.
Best Regards
SG
if Klipsch doesn't supply it then we aren't going to have it. Not sure where to tell you to look.
Very informative thank you!
I'm seeking some help, please. I have the SPL150 for Seven months now. I played some music that was in no way loud two days ago before I left for work. I came back later in the day turned on the music via the AV receiver, the signal to turn on the sub was sent, as the LED indicator came on, but, no sound. I'm confused as to how it could register that the signal was sent but no sound
This is exactly what this video was made for. Follow along with the steps and it'll help you determine what the cause is/how to repair.
-Jason
Did all that you mentioned....I will be getting a new amp soon
Can I get some help please? Not sure if it's cables or not. They're fairly new.... but I upgraded all of my surround. Even receiver. Problem I'm having right now I'm that my subs aren't working. I have 2 seperate powered subs ( one hasn't been used in quite awhile). They were working but recently don't. Tried plugging in the other and no sound. Both are showing powered on and green. Tried hooking to the other receiver as well and no sound. Could it be cable? Or are both sub power panels magically down? I don't know 🤷♂️ but I find it strange. Fuses are all good too.
Could be a number of things. Did you follow the steps in this video? Should help you diagnose and figure out what components are needed to resolve your issue.
-Jason
I have an old Klipsch sub that fluctuates in volume even though the source material is continuous. Is the amp just slowly failing?
Could be the case. The 12 in the video was actually intermittent before going completely out. It would reach a certain volume and then die off completely until you reset it so, sometimes these things happen prior to burning out completely. You may also want to look into the rest of your chain. Try with a different receiver and see if you get the same results.
-Jason
@@TopShelfAudio Thanks!
I have a R-115 sw and it has been plugged in to continuous power for 3-4 years, it started making thumping noise every 2 secs, sent amp for repair and they have cut off the cables going to the 220 V-120 V switch, thumping is gone, so i guess that circuit had something to do with it. From searching on web, i found that these subs should not have continuous power, because the standby heat will diminish their lifespan, it basically dries out the capacitors. It should be disconnected when not in use. The problem might be fixed on SPL series, dont know. The amp Circuit board had markings indicating same amp in 12 and 10 inch R series. I think SPL and R series amps are swappable and they sell them online, refurbs and new, i would try repair first. I have now hooked it up through a master/slave outlet, the sub only gets power when TV switches on. If dismantling sub, be aware the connectors going to the speaker element, are locked, you need to push lock open to get them off, if you just pull you may break the board. Also the screws can not take much torque, they will strip the mdf if you apply only very little. The amp is incredible light for its power, switch power supply i guess helps. Its ideal for shipping it through mail 🙂. I have 2 AsP Ice 1000 w mono blocks and they weigh 20x the Klipsch amp, each.
I have a klipsch spl-120 and the same thing as the one in the video is happening to me, the led light turns on but the cable test does not emit any sound when touching the tip, my second step then seems to be the 9v battery test.
Hello, I’m in the same situation as you were when you wrote this comment.
Were you able to resolve the issue? If so, please share the steps in detail, and I’ll replicate your steps to hopefully resolve the issue with mine as well. Thank you in advance!
Does it have to be a 9v battery or will any battery work?
9V has always been used and works well. Not entirely sure 1.5V ones are strong enough to visually make the cone pop out. Feel free to try it but I don't think it will do much.
I wanted a better look at the back of the amp. I had heard that if any of the round caps had a bulging top on them Then that may be where the problem is
Thanks for watching! This was mostly a general troubleshooting but, if we do this again I can pull in a bit tighter there.
-Jason
Could you please kindly advise how to take speaker out from SPL-150 ?
I took the screws out from the front side, but the speaker is still stuck on the box.
Did they glue it ? Thank you.
They didn't glue it, no. That said, the paint can stick a bit when its been sitting/tightened for a long period and may need to be "motivated" to come out of the cabinet. You'll want to be careful not to damage the cabinet but you can pry with something soft and lean the cabinet forward to use the weight of the driver to help. It'll come but, doesn't always just fall out on its own once screws are loosened.
-Jason
@@TopShelfAudio Hi, Jason. Thanks a lot for your advice. Now I can try again with confidence. It's very helpful information.👍
Great info! Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
-Jason
Hi .when I turn on my sub it make noise but never have sound, sometimes when I turn it off and then turn it on the led doesn't go on and it doesn't work . What should I do 😢
Is it possible to get a hold of a r-112sw amp? Do you have some good tips for a replacement ?
Contacting Klipsch customer service is your best bet. They may not have the original 112SW amp anymore but the SPL112 amp will be a functional swap in option and likely more readily available.
-Jason
Hi, my Klipsch RSW 15 has a blown internal amp. My Sony DA3ES has a sub line out, could I take line out and hook it up to my Denon POA- 2200 line in, for my amp, then bi-amp the speaker signal, and hook it directly to my RSW 15” speaker, directly, for amplification? Would that work? Thanks, John.
We typically don't recommend modifying from the original form. Seek out an original amp from external sources where possible..... Buuuuut if you were so inclined, technically you could power the driver with an external amp, bypassing the internal amp and running a line through the cab and direct to the driver....You'll want to be careful though. With the paired amps, everything is mated/matched perfectly. With external amps, that's not the case. Additionally, If you cut a hole in the cabinet, you will also want to be sure and completely seal it off.
-Jason
I have a klipsh sw-350 , it has suddenly started to make thumping noise even without the audio cable plugged in . Any idea what’s the cause
probably a fried amp but would require some troubleshooting.
Really useful video - no new content in months, I really hope this channel has not folded. Great well edited content -please don’t go anywhere .
I am troubleshooting my JBL subwoofer to see why it won’t power on. This video gives me a lot of insight about what to do but I have questions- are you guys still here ?
Thanks for watching! Yes, we are still here. We have run the show in seasons up to this point with a break between season one and two. The down time was just shooting and prepping new content. Intro/episode one just released in season 3 and we are back on with a regular weekly schedule. :)
any luck with your sub? get it back up and running?
-Jason
I have a Polk sub that doesn’t have a lfe port and my receiver does . It turns on and when I touch the cable to the sub you hear sound but when you plug it in Nothing . I tried a splitter and still nothing ? What’s your thoughts
That's probably too in depth to troubleshoot over youtube. if you can't figure it out call me at 270-556-8427
Спасибо за Ваши видео.
Thanks for watching!
good stuff as usual !!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
-Jason
Hi, I have a strange problem. I have connected single rca cable from my avr to the right input on the sub. However, when I pause the movie & play it back, it stops working. If I switch to left input then it starts working again. Can you please tell me what is wrong?
Strange problem indeed. How long are you pausing? Do you have your sub in auto or on mode? Is it long enough for the sub to enter a sleep mode if in auto? With the provided information, my assumption would be that the sub is going to sleep and when you unpause, the provided signal isnt enough to wake it. When you switch inputs, you get a buzz from tapping it on the metal which wakes it. If you leave your sub in on mode instead of auto, this should resolve *if* this is the issue.
-Jason
I have a svs subwoofer my Amp is a Cambridge cxa81 at 80 watts per channel the Sub plays for awhile then all of a sudden gives out a Loud pop, What do i need to correct this.
Probably call your dealer or SVS customer support. Sometimes it's a bad amp but if it's not shutting off I mean who knows, could be other components.
What about when it's not any of those things? How do u fix an amp?
you just have to buy a new one and swap it. It's not hard, only a few wires with plugs on them to swap and like 9 screws.
What does it mean if it blows a fuse when you turn it on?
How much is port noise difference between klipsch subwoofer r120sw spl 150 and svs pb 2000 pro in bass
Thanks for watching! This isn't something we've measured but honestly I haven't found port noise to be an issue on any of those units.
-Jason
My klipsch r112sw turn off/ cut off after 10second. Auto off. I already check not in stand by mode. Any idea how to fix?
Would need to run some tests to determine the issue. Follow through the steps in this video and you should be able to diagnose at home.
-Jason
When you say driver, do you mean the woofer?
A woofer can also be called a driver.
Klipsch Sw450 working but indicator blue light not work how to fix rest of things working perfectly plz help
thanks man
Why my sub klipsch 120sw smtime sound tik tik ..n smtime auto bass cut ..but power still on
common problem with the amp, probably need a new one.
awesome, thank you
Thanks for watching!
-Jason
Where do you get a new amp?
With Klipsch and most manufacturers, you can usually just give them a call and place an order.
-Jason
My buzz test does not hum, it crackle booms very loud, same for different cables. What does that mean? Could my AVR sub out be bad? Thank you!
The buzz test is designed to bypass the AVR so, if you are getting sound from touching the cable, *theoretically* this eliminates the sub as the issue and leads me to believe you are not getting signal to the sub. It should be more of a regular hum though as opposed to crackling. Could be that a component is on its way out and hasn't completely failed? What is the issue you are trying to diagnose? If no sound, It could be the AVR sub out is bad, but many times we find its just a settings issue.
-Jason
@@TopShelfAudio I have a 2003 HSU sub and a NAD T765 AVR (maybe 2007?) I set this up after 10 years in storage. The sub was not sounding right, low volume and muddy and sometimes would not work at all unless I turned everything on and off. I assumed the sub was bad and shipped it back to HSU yesterday and then I bought a used Polk sub (and a new cable) The new sub does not work at all but makes that not so hummy sound when I buzz test it. The guy I bought the polk sub from says it works great and was never used much. I should get the diagnosis on the original HSU sub in a few weeks. Is it common for AVR sub outs to go bad? Thanks!