A little correction: the minus 3db and minus 10db you’ll find in the specs have nothing to do with the volume setting of the subs. These values refer to the linearity of the frequency response graph. 45hz at -3db means 45hz will be 3db quieter than the hypothetical flat response line. 40hz at -10db means 10 db quieter than the flat response line. That’s how most manufacturers are able to fool their customers by writing unrealistic frequency responses, without mentioning the scale they’re using. There’s a big difference between +/- 3db and +/-10db. Realistically speaking, most of the 18 inch subwoofer actually struggle to really go below 30hz. Let alone top cabinets. Amazing channel Brian, Keep pushing! :)
Well I have 2 18” EV EKX Subs older active speakers which I only use for really big events and then I have a 12” ELX Powered Sub which I can control with my phone which use continuously and when I’m running that one I’m usually at -4 to -7 db. That one 12” sub is amazing. You don’t need 4, 6, or 8 subs for an event which I see some DJ’s running, that’s totally ridiculous as a DJ we aren’t out there to make people deaf we want the to enjoy the music. Example I just did a Cheer Competition with approximately 750 to 1000 people in attendance in a huge school gymnasium and I ran my two 12” QSC K 12.2 and the one 12” sub and it was crazy loud to the point some people asked me to turn the volume down. Thanks for sharing yet another Great Video, years of experience is what sets you apart from all these other DJ’s that think the Louder the Better, not true!! Have a Great New Year to you and your family @briansredd
A lot of times it's your INPUT card that's clipping, not the sub itself. Giving your subs a full range, unprocessed signal is a super easy, rock solid way to get them to limit long before the drivers go out of excursion. If you've got something like a Galileo, AHM, or Driverack, try putting a filter at 100hz on your subs to get rid of anything in the top end (duh, crossover) but then take a second filter, and cross your sub with a HPF again at 35-40hz. Will you lose whatever was under 40hz? Yes. BUT most of the DJs out there aren't running something that will actively go that low at a reasonable volume that will make a difference to your clients. You will notice tons more headroom the second you make those changes.
i don't agree with that... most of the subs have DSP and internal crossovers that send the low frequencies to the sub speaker and the mid-high fequencies to the tops... i agree that you could send the full range signal from mixer with HPF from 35-40 hz that most of the subs can't handle anyway
@@voxproevents6405 That solution “works” but you gain the most control by using an external DSP. Plus, any time you need to do a room tune, you’re going to need to have that control from a DSP anyhow. I know that on a lot of my Meyer boxes, if you send full range signals into the subs, whether or not there is a crossover in the sub itself, the input card will limit. Take the VLFC for example, if you feed it 60hz and below, you’ll get it to limit earlier than if you send it 30hz and below. By tailoring your signal to the response you’re looking to get out of the box, you’ll be in good hands.
@@evanturunen use pink noise, a reference microphone and an RTA analyser in order to take down the offending frequencies.... problem solved... but this solution is more for the sound engineer than a wedding dj :D
If bassboss sends you one and you don't want it. I will pay the shipping to my house. I have DJed at a club that has the VS-21 and it's a complete game changer, especially for school dances.
I would love a big sub to play UK Garage music on and hardcore jungle tunes I use a EQ max 12 right now. Oppenheimer film in DTS had very deep base and made me jump a few times
on the professional side (not for newbies) you could use a reference microphone and a pink noise source. That way you could see on the RTA from a digital mixer which are the frequencies that distort and adjust them accordingly.
I use a Mackie mixer with the EVs you use. I have a button that curs low end frequency 100 to 80. I believe it's for voice but if it's too boomy hit the button and it's much better
I agree that the stuff below 40 Hz is less important (BTW, I'm old enough to remember when that limit was at 50 Hz and even when it was at 60 Hz, LOL). There are however some tracks that leave you with a different experience if your system can reproduce all of the low frequency bass in the track. "Blinding Lights" by The Weeknd, with its tones at around 29 Hz and 32.5 Hz is a good example of that. And yes, the +/-3dB and +/-10 dB specs are in reference to the subwoofer's response in its passband. However I would not be surprised if some of the powered subwoofers probably do roll off the response at low frequencies a little faster, depending on the Gain setting. And the good ones will include some sort of limiting as well as well as high-pass filtering to prevent the drivers from being fed frequencies at a signal level that they cannot reproduce. As for passive subwoofers, that's a whole other story...
If anyone really wants to get the most out of their subs, the best way is to go out of your controllers booth out to a channel in a digital mixer like a qu pac. As well as your mains. Then you can graph eq the sub AND para eq for even more cut. And get that sub to really shine in the 50-125 hrz
A little correction:
the minus 3db and minus 10db you’ll find in the specs have nothing to do with the volume setting of the subs.
These values refer to the linearity of the frequency response graph.
45hz at -3db means 45hz will be 3db quieter than the hypothetical flat response line.
40hz at -10db means 10 db quieter than the flat response line.
That’s how most manufacturers are able to fool their customers by writing unrealistic frequency responses, without mentioning the scale they’re using. There’s a big difference between +/- 3db and +/-10db.
Realistically speaking, most of the 18 inch subwoofer actually struggle to really go below 30hz. Let alone top cabinets.
Amazing channel Brian, Keep pushing! :)
Correct. The frequency response of the speaker has nothing to do with the gain knob.
Well I have 2 18” EV EKX Subs older active speakers which I only use for really big events and then I have a 12” ELX Powered Sub which I can control with my phone which use continuously and when I’m running that one I’m usually at -4 to -7 db. That one 12” sub is amazing. You don’t need 4, 6, or 8 subs for an event which I see some DJ’s running, that’s totally ridiculous as a DJ we aren’t out there to make people deaf we want the to enjoy the music.
Example I just did a Cheer Competition with approximately 750 to 1000 people in attendance in a huge school gymnasium and I ran my two 12” QSC K 12.2 and the one 12” sub and it was crazy loud to the point some people asked me to turn the volume down. Thanks for sharing yet another Great Video, years of experience is what sets you apart from all these other DJ’s that think the Louder the Better, not true!! Have a Great New Year to you and your family @briansredd
I like your explanation. I'm looking at going 30M to start. Add a sub or two later for bigger events. That's my plan. Good info.
A lot of times it's your INPUT card that's clipping, not the sub itself.
Giving your subs a full range, unprocessed signal is a super easy, rock solid way to get them to limit long before the drivers go out of excursion. If you've got something like a Galileo, AHM, or Driverack, try putting a filter at 100hz on your subs to get rid of anything in the top end (duh, crossover) but then take a second filter, and cross your sub with a HPF again at 35-40hz. Will you lose whatever was under 40hz? Yes. BUT most of the DJs out there aren't running something that will actively go that low at a reasonable volume that will make a difference to your clients. You will notice tons more headroom the second you make those changes.
i don't agree with that... most of the subs have DSP and internal crossovers that send the low frequencies to the sub speaker and the mid-high fequencies to the tops... i agree that you could send the full range signal from mixer with HPF from 35-40 hz that most of the subs can't handle anyway
@@voxproevents6405 That solution “works” but you gain the most control by using an external DSP.
Plus, any time you need to do a room tune, you’re going to need to have that control from a DSP anyhow. I know that on a lot of my Meyer boxes, if you send full range signals into the subs, whether or not there is a crossover in the sub itself, the input card will limit. Take the VLFC for example, if you feed it 60hz and below, you’ll get it to limit earlier than if you send it 30hz and below. By tailoring your signal to the response you’re looking to get out of the box, you’ll be in good hands.
@@evanturunen use pink noise, a reference microphone and an RTA analyser in order to take down the offending frequencies.... problem solved... but this solution is more for the sound engineer than a wedding dj :D
"Some people will go out and get, maybe, a better subwoofer." Yup, I got BassBoss SSP118 and never looked back! Problem solved, thanks for the advice.
As stated, I'm not an audio engineer. Just trying to help :)
If bassboss sends you one and you don't want it. I will pay the shipping to my house. I have DJed at a club that has the VS-21 and it's a complete game changer, especially for school dances.
LOL - I should have read your comment first. I got BassBoss SSP118 subs and could not be happier!
I would love a big sub to play UK Garage music on and hardcore jungle tunes I use a EQ max 12 right now. Oppenheimer film in DTS had very deep base and made me jump a few times
on the professional side (not for newbies) you could use a reference microphone and a pink noise source. That way you could see on the RTA from a digital mixer which are the frequencies that distort and adjust them accordingly.
we go radical and shake the house down when we reach the prime moment of the night even for a mobile dj
I use a Mackie mixer with the EVs you use. I have a button that curs low end frequency 100 to 80. I believe it's for voice but if it's too boomy hit the button and it's much better
👍🏼Bass Boss is the Best👍🏼
Love Bass Boss
I agree that the stuff below 40 Hz is less important (BTW, I'm old enough to remember when that limit was at 50 Hz and even when it was at 60 Hz, LOL). There are however some tracks that leave you with a different experience if your system can reproduce all of the low frequency bass in the track. "Blinding Lights" by The Weeknd, with its tones at around 29 Hz and 32.5 Hz is a good example of that.
And yes, the +/-3dB and +/-10 dB specs are in reference to the subwoofer's response in its passband. However I would not be surprised if some of the powered subwoofers probably do roll off the response at low frequencies a little faster, depending on the Gain setting. And the good ones will include some sort of limiting as well as well as high-pass filtering to prevent the drivers from being fed frequencies at a signal level that they cannot reproduce. As for passive subwoofers, that's a whole other story...
I'll be using my 30m's with an EKS 18sp. What settings should I use on the sub and on my 30 ms?
If anyone really wants to get the most out of their subs, the best way is to go out of your controllers booth out to a channel in a digital mixer like a qu pac. As well as your mains. Then you can graph eq the sub AND para eq for even more cut. And get that sub to really shine in the 50-125 hrz
Great advice