Thankyou for video. I found with the cheap .99 cent super glue tubes, after you use it wipe the tip with a paper towel, close it lightly (do not tighten cap down just turn it till it stops) and most importantly store it standing up straight. This will prevent glue from running up to the tip and gluing it shut. Works well for me.
Good review, I've been looking into glues other than super glue due to the white residue. And I can attest you DO NOT want super glue in your eyes- I was trying to get a dried tube to work one time and when if finally broke the dried seal, it flew in both my eyes. Luckily I held them open as the doctor said they usually glue shut and there is nothing they can do to open them, just wait a few days with glued shut eyes. I did have very red eyes for a week and the glue gave me black eyes as well, which was interesting
The Tamaiya extra thin IS the BEST 4 Styrene!! & I BLAST HOBBY LOBBY 4 NOT selling it anymore!! They now only sell a similar LOOKING liquid weld tht SUXX BIG time!!
Revell is really good and precise but glue at the tip will harden no matter what and you have to either use even thinner needle to open it or use lighter to heat it up. I dont really recommend using lighter because if you use it indoors, the burnt glue remains will rise up and get stuck on your ceiling as these small gray dots.
Hi - I bought revell contacta professional …. I’m new to minatures. Bought some plastic ones(Games workshop/ Warhammer) off eBay an, and a sword snapped off in the post. So I used the glue. Firstly it seemed like ages to get hard enough for me to leave it. Then came back to it at the end of the day, and it snapped off pretty easy. It didn’t stick it well. Games worship minatures are plastic I think. Do you need to shake the glue before use or something? Am I not understanding some crucial step??
I had a problem recently where I was gluing an arm to a model after painting. I left the areas I wanted to glue un painted but I went in with a reasonable amount of revel glue and it just isn’t sticking it properly . Any help?
Really nice vid, thanks a lot for your quick tips! Also, I'd like to tell that I'm totally agree regarding Loctite, great stuff. But can someone explain me if something wrong with my hands or what - I can't glue resin details with cyanoacrylate, like at all. What the chemistry behind this?
It might be possible, with age super glues 'crystalize' (become very ridged). With care you could try chipping it by scrapping with a finger nail or wood dowl. But this is best tried on only small overflows.
Thank you for making this video available, I have question though, what glue is the best for clear plastic windows? I'm doing Walthers merchant's row V and thought maybe to use CA glue but there has to be a better choice than CA glue that doesn't damage the clear plastic.
Good question, i know in the past plastic glues can be a bit problematic, even if you manage to glue them perfectly without getting any of the glue on the clear screen they can still permanently “fog up” as the glue dries and it releases a residue. Assuming the window fits pretty snuggly and it won’t take much to hold it in perhaps a tiny bit of varnish around the edges would be enough to hold it in place? I can’t think of a glue off the top of my head that i’ve had a good experience with on clear plastics but if you find one let me know!
@@northyhobbies I just had to settle on Revell contacta pro, so far (after 2 hours or so)all the windows seem to be firmly glued , no fog up that I can see , I'm hoping they'll stay that way. in the past I have tried CA gel, while wood glue, Tamiya thin cement, but the revell glue by far has out-performed them all.
I tried superglue on a 3D print and it was like a glitch, it acted like id used water and the piece just fell off. It had no stickyness or tackiness at all between the two pieces.
@@MrSh4W my preference is Loctite for the reasons mentioned in the video, however there isn't much difference between super glues. Any standard brand should do.
Im going for loctite this time. My Gorllia glue just turns to crap after im 3/4 done the bottle. It gets far to thick, even if I stand it up right. Its decent though but its shelf life seems to not be the best. Thanks for sharing@@northyhobbies
Need some advice. I collect 1/72 Diecast aircraft and the undercarriage are notoriously difficult to keep in place. However you also want to be able to remove them for a different display sometimes. Can you recommend a weak glue that doesn’t really affect the model? Some people recommend bluetac buts it’s too weak and looks terrible.
I am having the same problem with Hobby Master aircraft models. I don't have a solution, but was thinking of using a wood glue which should only give a weak bond. Another option with the HM might be to tighten up the fitting by using plumber's Teflon tape. As for other brands of aircraft model, I thing Corgi might need something more permanent.
@HAL-vu8ef , I just got a reply from Hobby Master (about a minute ago). Here, I've copied it out: "Dear Sir, Please use water soluable white glue to secure the parts and the gears."
If both sides being glued together are plastic then the plastic glue is brilliant, as he says in the video it melts the plastic together making a perfect hold.
Yes it should still work after painting the model however it will likely ruin the paint job around those joins and be a little less effective so you may have to repaint those parts. It may work better to scrape the paint off the area where the parts touch before trying to glue them.
Turns out, you can infact superglue the tip of your tongue to your own cheek. don't let the fear of the unknown or odd E.R visit stop you from finding answers to your own questions. Just look at how I fared in my pursuit of knowlege
I wish I wouldve watched this first. I bought craft glue assuming that would work. Thanks for the video!
I don't think you answered this: which glue tastes the best? thanks love the hobby vids
haha, not much beats the paint water pot for tastiest hobby liquid :P
Gorilla glue. Don't monkey around. Someone may try this.
Disclaimer: do not taste any of these glues.
@@mgamga9476 to late I already did
sounds like the Tamiya smells the best
I've been using my tamiya plastic cement wrong....That just blew my mind lol
Thankyou for video.
I found with the cheap .99 cent super glue tubes, after you use it wipe the tip with a paper towel, close it lightly (do not tighten cap down just turn it till it stops) and most importantly store it standing up straight. This will prevent glue from running up to the tip and gluing it shut.
Works well for me.
nope..still not works.
Thank you, this is a great video. I appreciate it a newer person to models.
Good review, I've been looking into glues other than super glue due to the white residue. And I can attest you DO NOT want super glue in your eyes- I was trying to get a dried tube to work one time and when if finally broke the dried seal, it flew in both my eyes. Luckily I held them open as the doctor said they usually glue shut and there is nothing they can do to open them, just wait a few days with glued shut eyes. I did have very red eyes for a week and the glue gave me black eyes as well, which was interesting
The Tamaiya extra thin IS the BEST 4 Styrene!! & I BLAST HOBBY LOBBY 4 NOT selling it anymore!! They now only sell a similar LOOKING liquid weld tht SUXX BIG time!!
Revell is really good and precise but glue at the tip will harden no matter what and you have to either use even thinner needle to open it or use lighter to heat it up. I dont really recommend using lighter because if you use it indoors, the burnt glue remains will rise up and get stuck on your ceiling as these small gray dots.
Thank you for this!
I was looking for a good replacement for the Tamiya, going to give the Revell a try, good vid!!
O I love the Tamiya extra thin for plastic its my fav. Just a hard core smell is bad lol. Does the Revell have a bad smell ? Is it good glue ?
No smell to the Revell, I haven't had any issues with it!
@@savagex466-qt1io
Hi - I bought revell contacta professional ….
I’m new to minatures. Bought some plastic ones(Games workshop/ Warhammer) off eBay an, and a sword snapped off in the post.
So I used the glue. Firstly it seemed like ages to get hard enough for me to leave it.
Then came back to it at the end of the day, and it snapped off pretty easy. It didn’t stick it well.
Games worship minatures are plastic I think.
Do you need to shake the glue before use or something?
Am I not understanding some crucial step??
I had a problem recently where I was gluing an arm to a model after painting. I left the areas I wanted to glue un painted but I went in with a reasonable amount of revel glue and it just isn’t sticking it properly . Any help?
Thanks! Appreciate your work!
No timestamps??
My brother in Christ, it's a 5 minute video.
Testors makes a pretty nice plastic cement with a brush applicator
Thanks! I will have to try it
Really nice vid, thanks a lot for your quick tips! Also, I'd like to tell that I'm totally agree regarding Loctite, great stuff.
But can someone explain me if something wrong with my hands or what - I can't glue resin details with cyanoacrylate, like at all.
What the chemistry behind this?
Which one smells best? When I take huffs I want it to smell nice.
I’m a fan of the revell plastic cement because it reminds me of my childhood but if toxicity is more your thing the tamiya extra thin is strong
I have a figure that came broken :( what do you recommend for glueing them back together
I'm in the belief that just craft glue would work on plastics as good as Kraze Glue or other modeling glue
I have a bunch of models a friend put together for me that have the white super glue residue all over them, do you know any tricks to clean them off?
It might be possible, with age super glues 'crystalize' (become very ridged). With care you could try chipping it by scrapping with a finger nail or wood dowl.
But this is best tried on only small overflows.
Thank you for making this video available, I have question though, what glue is the best for clear plastic windows? I'm doing Walthers merchant's row V and thought maybe to use CA glue but there has to be a better choice than CA glue that doesn't damage the clear plastic.
Good question, i know in the past plastic glues can be a bit problematic, even if you manage to glue them perfectly without getting any of the glue on the clear screen they can still permanently “fog up” as the glue dries and it releases a residue. Assuming the window fits pretty snuggly and it won’t take much to hold it in perhaps a tiny bit of varnish around the edges would be enough to hold it in place? I can’t think of a glue off the top of my head that i’ve had a good experience with on clear plastics but if you find one let me know!
@@northyhobbies I just had to settle on Revell contacta pro, so far (after 2 hours or so)all the windows seem to be firmly glued , no fog up that I can see , I'm hoping they'll stay that way. in the past I have tried CA gel, while wood glue, Tamiya thin cement, but the revell glue by far has out-performed them all.
I tried superglue on a 3D print and it was like a glitch, it acted like id used water and the piece just fell off. It had no stickyness or tackiness at all between the two pieces.
You could try a thicker superglue, it might help hold things in the right place until it dries.
Great video thank you got my sub today
What glue is best to glue plastic to metal on a diecast model car? cheers
Super glue, any time that you are combing different materials the best option will be super glue.
@@northyhobbies Any particular brand?
@@MrSh4W my preference is Loctite for the reasons mentioned in the video, however there isn't much difference between super glues. Any standard brand should do.
@@northyhobbies Cheers 👍
Im going for loctite this time. My Gorllia glue just turns to crap after im 3/4 done the bottle. It gets far to thick, even if I stand it up right. Its decent though but its shelf life seems to not be the best. Thanks for sharing@@northyhobbies
Need some advice. I collect 1/72 Diecast aircraft and the undercarriage are notoriously difficult to keep in place. However you also want to be able to remove them for a different display sometimes. Can you recommend a weak glue that doesn’t really affect the model? Some people recommend bluetac buts it’s too weak and looks terrible.
I am having the same problem with Hobby Master aircraft models. I don't have a solution, but was thinking of using a wood glue which should only give a weak bond. Another option with the HM might be to tighten up the fitting by using plumber's Teflon tape.
As for other brands of aircraft model, I thing Corgi might need something more permanent.
@@weldonyoung1013 I was told clear silicon like you use on bathrooms, kitchen and glass is good as it is not to sticky and can be pulled off.
@HAL-vu8ef , I just got a reply from Hobby Master (about a minute ago).
Here, I've copied it out:
"Dear Sir,
Please use water soluable white glue to secure the parts and the gears."
@@weldonyoung1013 thanks for sharing
I broke a hard plastic gun should I use the plastic glue?
If both sides being glued together are plastic then the plastic glue is brilliant, as he says in the video it melts the plastic together making a perfect hold.
Tamiya has the worst gunk
I went and search this to know what’s the best glue to use so that it won’t happen to me again
Very useful!
Ay thanks bruh
Hey can i use the plastic glue after i painted a model
Yes it should still work after painting the model however it will likely ruin the paint job around those joins and be a little less effective so you may have to repaint those parts.
It may work better to scrape the paint off the area where the parts touch before trying to glue them.
anyone have glue for vehicle's
Turns out, you can infact superglue the tip of your tongue to your own cheek. don't let the fear of the unknown or odd E.R visit stop you from finding answers to your own questions. Just look at how I fared in my pursuit of knowlege