I just wanted to say thanks for posting the video on how to change the front brakes......between yours and a couple other videos it gave me the confidence to take on this project with my son on my 93 ford ranger 2 wheel drive.... Had a little problems getting the pins out, so I just squeezed them closed with some pliers and my son whacked them out. Without your video I would not have taken this on , so again thanks a lot... William
Great video, thank you! Doing my daughter's Bronco II brakes on the fly. This had all the specific info I needed. When you start talking special tools and torque values... THAT'S an informative video!!
My 1986 Ford Bronco II will be very happy when she gets new bearings, so glad to find a video of older rangers that have manual locking hubs! Thank you and God Bless! Liked and Subscribed! Also a video on how to replace U joints on the 4 wheel drive axle would be much appreciated!
WOW down that far and the way U joints are in a ranger, I woulda put new U joints in it for $6 or $15 for good one an $12 for both new wheel bearings also..But I guess maybe ya live in the city an they last longer than here in the country..I lost the clip was looking for the name of it...Great video my friend thanks for posting it :-)
Thanks, good video. Not a fan of the music but it wasn't bad enough to stop the vid, lol. Just got a ranger to off road with and half the parts are missing, needed to see what was supposed to be there. Thought it was bad when I pulled the tire off and the locking hub came off with it! Lol.
Thanks for the video!! I just did the same thing to my 95 4x4 ranger. The wheel seemed a little loose when I took it to the tire store to get it the tires balanced. I see that I didn't toch the 2 nuts right.
Got an 91 ford explorer, it is the same process to replace the brake? and for the lock, when it the time to replace them, do you need to replace the in a special way or just put them back on?
I will be uploading a video soon on how to replace the rotors & bearing on a 1993 ranger 4x4 with auto hubs. It is definitely a different process with the auto hubs.
Looking to do my 94 Mazda B3000 and expecting to find something similar to what you described, but having trouble envisioning it. Is this something that will require a special tool?
PROCEDURE WITH AUTOMATIC LOCKING HUBS Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the retainer washers from the lug nut studs and remove the automatic locking hub assembly from the spindle.
Remove the snapring and spacer from the end of the spindle shaft.
Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut after removing the locking key from under it Pull the locking cam assembly and the two plastic spacers off of the wheel bearing adjusting nut.
Use a magnet and remove the locking key from under the adjusting nut. If required, rotate the adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure against the locking key.
WARNING To prevent damage to the adjusting nut and spindle threads on vehicles equipped with automatic hubs, look into the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut and remove the separate locking key before removing the adjusting nut. Remove the wheel bearing locknut using a 2- 3 / 8 inch (60.3mm) hex socket
Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Remove the hub and rotor from the spindle.
Using seal removal tool 1175-AC or equivalent remove and discard the grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub.
Clean the inner and outer bearing assemblies in solvent. Inspect the bearings and the cones for wear and damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them with front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C and tool T77F-1102-A or equivalent.
Wipe the old grease from the spindle. Check the spindle for excessive wear or damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
To install: If the inner and outer cups were removed, use bearing driver handle tool T80-4000-W or equivalent and replace the cups. Be sure to seat the cups properly in the hub.
Use a bearing packer tool and properly repack the wheel bearings with the proper grade and type grease. If a bearing packer is not available work as much of the grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Also, grease the cone surfaces.
Position the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease seal.
Install the grease seal by driving in place with hub seal replacer tool T83T-1175-B and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W.
Install the hub and rotor assembly onto the spindle. Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the spindle and the retainer.
Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly.
Carefully install the rotor onto the spindle. Install the outer wheel bearing in the rotor.
Install the adjusting nut and tighten 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) to seat the bearings.
Follow the appropriate wheel bearing adjustment procedures.
what is the difference in the auto hubs and manual hubs? I need to replace mine and would like to do it myself and didn't know what the difference in the process was
The auto hubs have a cam and one hexed shaped nut with a locking key that goes in the groove on the spindle and locks into a groove on the locknut which has grooves going all the way around the nut. This one is a lot easier pry cam off of spindle, use a magnet to get the key out of the center of nut might have to wiggle nut back and forth a little to release tension off of the key and then it will come right out, unscrew the nut the rest of the way and bearings can be replaced. To reinstall, the nut only has to be tighten hand tight until there isn't any play in the bearings. Wiggle rotor to make sure there isn't any play, then insert lock key in the groove on the spindle and make sure in it engages into the groove on the nut also. If it doesn't tighten the nut until the key slips in.
With manual locking hubs, yes it is the same. Automatic hubs has one nut and a key that goes in the center of the nut. Tighten to 35 ft lbs, back off 1/4 of a turn then hand snug and insert key into slot in the middle of the nut.
I need this information, but that horrible computer generated extremely annoying digital background noise PISSES ME OFF SO MUCH, that I can't watch the video.
I just wanted to say thanks for posting the video on how to change the front brakes......between yours and a couple other videos it gave me the confidence to take on this project with my son on my 93 ford ranger 2 wheel drive.... Had a little problems getting the pins out, so I just squeezed them closed with some pliers and my son whacked them out. Without your video I would not have taken this on , so again thanks a lot... William
Great video, thank you! Doing my daughter's Bronco II brakes on the fly. This had all the specific info I needed. When you start talking special tools and torque values... THAT'S an informative video!!
Please don't ever take this video down!
Yeah, please keep it up my 1986 Ford Bronco II needs this video!
My 1986 Ford Bronco II will be very happy when she gets new bearings, so glad to find a video of older rangers that have manual locking hubs! Thank you and God Bless! Liked and Subscribed! Also a video on how to replace U joints on the 4 wheel drive axle would be much appreciated!
I agree. Best video, I just did new bearings both sides. This was my first time. Just watched your video and went at it. Thanks
gonna do my brakes on my 93 ranger always nice to see someone do it first dince this is my first 4x4 ive owned
Awesome video thank you.Now i can finish my 97 ranger,. Just got a new manual hubs and new wheel bearings.
Thank you jcook007. Nice video. Exactly the same steps and details as for my 1996 Mazda B4000 4WD truck with manual lock 4WD.
best vid I could find
Well done video
Billy Beatle seems to be in a hurry to get somewhere other than the work area, he must be an upper level manager!
Thanks. Was looking for the tool type for outter nut removal.
I just changed the bearings in my 94 Ranger 4x4 manual hubs. procedure is the same. looks identical thanks for the video
What size are those big sockets used. And are there 2 different big sockets to take the rotor off. Or just 1.
3/8 extension works best for driving out the pin/guides of the calipers..
WOW down that far and the way U joints are in a ranger, I woulda put new U joints in it for $6 or $15 for good one an $12 for both new wheel bearings also..But I guess maybe ya live in the city an they last longer than here in the country..I lost the clip was looking for the name of it...Great video my friend thanks for posting it :-)
Thanks, good video. Not a fan of the music but it wasn't bad enough to stop the vid, lol. Just got a ranger to off road with and half the parts are missing, needed to see what was supposed to be there. Thought it was bad when I pulled the tire off and the locking hub came off with it! Lol.
Thanks for the video! This looks the same as the 1997 Ranger setup.
Re-useing seals is a no goood. Its not worth the hassle later on. Replace for a measley 8 bucks or so
Thanks for the video!! I just did the same thing to my 95 4x4 ranger. The wheel seemed a little loose when I took it to the tire store to get it the tires balanced. I see that I didn't toch the 2 nuts right.
Thank you for this video, it helped me with my ranger
Got an 91 ford explorer, it is the same process to replace the brake? and for the lock, when it the time to replace them, do you need to replace the in a special way or just put them back on?
I hope that stand is under the truck, never trust a jack. Oh, bearing packer. Will save you time
this is a very well put together video !
Differnt on 91 4.0 4x4 with autolocking hubs.
The91-94 Explorer is different a bit. You need 2 &3/8" octagon socket not the tooth socket .
I will be uploading a video soon on how to replace the rotors & bearing on a 1993 ranger 4x4 with auto hubs. It is definitely a different process with the auto hubs.
My 1992 4x4 has a large hub nut. 2 - 7/16. I didn't see it in the video.
Good video but why the music in the background it was very irritating
Super helpful, thanks for the video!
Was good information wise. I wouldn't go cheap though. Put a new seal and never use old bearings on new races or the other way around.
Great vid thanks for the info
Would this also work for the 91 ford ranger? 4x4? manuel hubs? i need to replace the wheel bearing
Yes
I checked mine and the 94 is different. It doesn't have the slotted nut. Mine is the type with a small metal wedge that locks the nut from moving.
Looking to do my 94 Mazda B3000 and expecting to find something similar to what you described, but having trouble envisioning it. Is this something that will require a special tool?
@@TheEarthwinders Do you have manual locking hubs or automatic?
@DaytonCarCare You have automatic hubs. This is for manual locking hubs.
PROCEDURE WITH AUTOMATIC LOCKING HUBS
Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the retainer washers from the lug nut studs and remove the automatic locking hub assembly from the spindle.
Remove the snapring and spacer from the end of the spindle shaft.
Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut after removing the locking key from under it
Pull the locking cam assembly and the two plastic spacers off of the wheel bearing adjusting nut.
Use a magnet and remove the locking key from under the adjusting nut. If required, rotate the adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure against the locking key.
WARNING
To prevent damage to the adjusting nut and spindle threads on vehicles equipped with automatic hubs, look into the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut and remove the separate locking key before removing the adjusting nut.
Remove the wheel bearing locknut using a 2- 3 / 8 inch (60.3mm) hex socket
Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Remove the hub and rotor from the spindle.
Using seal removal tool 1175-AC or equivalent remove and discard the grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub.
Clean the inner and outer bearing assemblies in solvent. Inspect the bearings and the cones for wear and damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them with front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C and tool T77F-1102-A or equivalent.
Wipe the old grease from the spindle. Check the spindle for excessive wear or damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
To install:
If the inner and outer cups were removed, use bearing driver handle tool T80-4000-W or equivalent and replace the cups. Be sure to seat the cups properly in the hub.
Use a bearing packer tool and properly repack the wheel bearings with the proper grade and type grease. If a bearing packer is not available work as much of the grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Also, grease the cone surfaces.
Position the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease seal.
Install the grease seal by driving in place with hub seal replacer tool T83T-1175-B and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W.
Install the hub and rotor assembly onto the spindle. Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the spindle and the retainer.
Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly.
Carefully install the rotor onto the spindle. Install the outer wheel bearing in the rotor.
Install the adjusting nut and tighten 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) to seat the bearings.
Follow the appropriate wheel bearing adjustment procedures.
@@benb8003 I have manual hubs.
thanks for posting.........
thanks man this video was perfect
Good video, but please no music.
How do you put the c clamp back on
nice vid. its really helpful!
what size spindle socket is that
super helpful!
great video thamk's
what is the measure of the die?
what is the difference in the auto hubs and manual hubs? I need to replace mine and would like to do it myself and didn't know what the difference in the process was
The auto hubs have a cam and one hexed shaped nut with a locking key that goes in the groove on the spindle and locks into a groove on the locknut which has grooves going all the way around the nut. This one is a lot easier pry cam off of spindle, use a magnet to get the key out of the center of nut might have to wiggle nut back and forth a little to release tension off of the key and then it will come right out, unscrew the nut the rest of the way and bearings can be replaced. To reinstall, the nut only has to be tighten hand tight until there isn't any play in the bearings. Wiggle rotor to make sure there isn't any play, then insert lock key in the groove on the spindle and make sure in it engages into the groove on the nut also. If it doesn't tighten the nut until the key slips in.
what is that crawling across the floor at 1:40 min on video ?
+dexter2433 Billy Beatle
Goddamn thats a big spider @1:43
Thanks for sharing this video, tha music I think no good because I want listen what do you say,but is good video thanks
Anyone got a link for the hub lock tool?
Great vid
any idea if there are procedural differences between the dana 28 and Dana/spicer 35 spindles?
No, it is the same as long as you have manual locking hubs. Spindle nuts are larger on the Dana 35's but uses the same socket.
Hope this works on my 01 ranger
What years of rangers does this work ford
80's till 97
Does the 94 with DANA 35 (electric switch 4x4) require that spanner socket?
With manual locking hubs, yes it is the same. Automatic hubs has one nut and a key that goes in the center of the nut. Tighten to 35 ft lbs, back off 1/4 of a turn then hand snug and insert key into slot in the middle of the nut.
crawley bug at 1:42
Would a 87 4x4 ranger have the same set up?
It has Dana 28 axles but the procedure is exactly the same. I had an 87 Bronco II with Dana 28's and it was exactly the same.
Next video no music, can't hear what you are saying
Necesito un selector de cambio ,4.4 de un picad motor 3000 automatica placa 286351 Ford ranyyer americana usado onuevo
1998
what size hub socket was that?
2 1/4 inch inside diameter
***** would it be the same for a 94 ford ranger?
? I would just pull off the wheel and measure the diameter of the nut
Yes with manual locking hubs
Its a beetle
Turn that dang music off and this would be a great video.
Fuck yah
*for
Had to stop watching. The music was unbearable.
Hard to hear you when the music is on.
I need this information, but that horrible computer generated extremely annoying digital background noise PISSES ME OFF SO MUCH, that I can't watch the video.
Terrible lighting absolutely terrible music